Was looking for a short video on HOW to check fluid levels, top off fluid, what type of fluid to use, and how/when to change the hydraulic fluid. I own a BX23s. Yes the manual has this information, but nothing beats a how-to video for simplicity and the opportunity to connect with the Kubota community
Since best practice is to lower the loader and any rear implements when you park the tractor, that sets it up perfectly for checking the engine oil and hydraulic oil prior to starting the tractor the next time. It's also good practice to give the machine a quick walk-around and take note of any fresh spots of oil, if any, on the floor. Familiarize yourself with the color of the various fluids (engine oil, hydro oil and coolant) so you can easily recognize them if leaks occur.
Just bought a BX2680 about 2 weeks ago, and that's what I do when I check the fluid level is to have the loader and 3 point on the ground after its parked overnight. I had a leak from a hydraulic line on the left side of the transmission area for a while that I couldn't find right off, but was a simple fix of just tightening a connection, no issues afterwards but wasn't bad enough to lower the fluid level in the reservoir, just annoying at first since its a brand new machine, and being new to tractors I thought it was a major problem, but I simply looked around with the tractor running, and eventually found where it was dripping.
Good grief that's the info I needed but didn't get from the "expert". When to check, implements up or down is best. Why couldn't he just say that. Thanks.
I really appreciate your efforts.... I am a noob, and I need to confirm where to check, AND where to fill the hydraulic fluid. It would have been more helpful if you had shown us how to do that
@@wildbill23c Most of your Kubota mid range compacts will check the same. This guy should have shown it in his video. Not one of the more informative videos.
Original BX23, .. check it before each use. Old hoses may leak pinholes.. seals leave a thin film on rods. Seal on the filter may seep, PTO drive seals may seep.
My thoughts were always check the fluid with all the cylinders closed ,if you check it with the cylinders open it will check low and if you fill it to the full mark then close them something has to give from over fill pressure
My bucket was up and my bckhoe was up. I pulled the filler tube, realized they were up, lowered them (tractor off) and it puked out a quart of oil. You sure it doesnt matter???
@@MessicksEquip - BX23s , I cant find anything in the manual how to check it wither. Doesnt say hot/cold or running/not running or all items at rest/fully extended etc. Video states it doesnt matter, but odd it puked out the oil. Back story is backhoe disconnects were leaking. I heard the pump cavitation. Found leaks, tightened fittings and added oil to dipstick level. Worked tractor another 45 hours, heard cavitation noise again. Pulled plug and oil was almost to top of fill hole (way over filled). All implements were up, so I figured lowering them would drop the oil level. When I lowered the backhoe down, it puked out oil out of the filler hole. When i lowered the FEL, it puked out more oil. Now I am wondering why it showed overfill after and sounds like it is cavitating again.
Whenever you want as long as the loader and 3 point are in the same positions every time you check. Could be all the way down, all the way up, or somewhere in between but as long as you have them the same position each time it doesn't make any difference.
Hello, Older video I know, but what about removing and reattaching implements? In other words, say I have the backhoe and loader on all summer but want to go to a plow or snow blower in the winter (plumbed in and using a 3rd function for this example). Do I check the fluid level and adjust for plow mode? Then the same question comes up in the spring, wouldn't there now be a possibility of being overfull after putting the backhoe and loader back on? Just curious, been running a BX 25 this way for 13 years, and it has never really been an issue, just curious more than anything. As always, thank you for the informative videos, Neal.
My boss almost burnt up a brandnew m7060 a leak developed on a disc harrow we had connected to the rear remotes had less than 4 gallons left of 15 gallons and smelled really burnt. I say check everything everytime it leaves the barn.
May not make much difference depending on the oil capacity, but double vs single acting cylinders could impact oil levels. For example, the lift cylinders on my CR9070 combine feeder house are single acting... When it is fully raised, the oil reservoir shows a little more than 1" lower on the sight glass when compared when it is fully lowered on the ground. That's why it's always good practice to have everything retracted before checking levels to not overfill the reservoir.
I have seen several instances where at the 50 hour fluid change, there seems to be a good amount of metal shavings found in the magnet ring and in other places. This obviously can be alarming to those who have never seen it before and are not educated to where those shavings are coming from. Kubota knows this is happening or they would not have included the magnets as a part of their filter assembly. It is apparent that Kubota knows where the shavings are coming from and it knows that the shavings pose no threat to the engine nor transmissions or they would have done something about it prior to this. Having seen one example showing the metal shavings as spiral debris, this could only come from the CNC process and due to not flushing at the time manufacture. No break-in wearing would have caused this. How such a large piece made it past the take up filter screen is still almost beyond belief. I can only imagine what is found clinging to the take up screen in such cases. What worries me the most is the smaller particles making it into the crank bushings and bearings. I know the engine design and the fluid flow filter arrangement protects the crankshaft from this but it is still worrisome.
Messick's I know on critical systems such as helicopter gearboxes that oil samples are required to be taken and tested. This way they can see what gears wear and in fact where the metal is coming from. I guess what I’m getting at is perhaps something should be done to relieve the buyers stress and provide some explanation as what to expect and why. FYI I am not pointing fingers at Kubota. In fact I just agreed to purchase a L2501 geared unit from Normangee Tractors in Texas. I am, obviously sold on the Kubota line. The dealership in Texas and Kubota benefited from your hard work. Yes I expect all of the metal is from milling debris which was not flushed. RTV Silicon excess is also expected to find its way to the sump also. Hey..... I wanna be like you.....keep on keeping on.
I know this is old video, but maybe somebody will see it….I just changed all filters on my 2014 mx5200 gear drive at 185 hours. I got this used a couple years ago with 90 hours but wasn’t confident the prior owner did his 50 hour service. Anyway, as like all I dumped some hydro when switching filters and added 2 quarts back. I k ow consistent but it does make a big difference if loader is raised or lowered. At raised I see no fluid in window….lowered it shows half bubble. I’ve always at top of window before with all lowered so guess I will add 1 more quart
I have a difficult time seeing the clear hydraulic fluid on the yellow dipstick, even out in the sunlight with my glasses on. Is there some sort of dye that can be added to the oil to make it show up better? Thank you.
Any one else having issues with the quick hydraulic connect from the loader to the tractor leaking on these BX models? I have seen multiple people online having leaking issues. I am bringing my unit to the shop today.
i know its not the focus of the video but im really liking these bx tractors more and more. ive considered trading in my two tractors for a used bx25 or something like it.
I have this same tractor, BX23S and I absolutely love it. Mainly because of the backhoe it only takes a few minutes to take it off and switch to a 3 point hitch and if you get the quick release front bucket you switch out the bucket to a set of forks. The BX23S is really good at everything. Highly recommend it
Neal, any advice on minimal loss of hydro fluid when changing the hydraulic filter on an MX 4800? It continues to run until the new filter is completely seated back on. I felt as if I lost more then I probably should. Still looked good in the window on the reservoir, but would like to know if there’s a way to minimize the amount you lose when changing the filter. Thanks!
I want to comment on the bx2680 quick 4-way latching hydraulic connect. Mine has 30 hrs on it, and I have only removed the loader once and put it back on. Mine is leaking fluid and I am seeing its a common issue for other people as well across the internet. I am hearing that even if you replace the entire top section that it works for a while then starts leaking again. It appears to me that its a bad design on Kubota's part. Does Kubota make a kit to convert this back to 4 single quick connects couplers and plugs. I don't mind if I have to get off the tractor and unplug each hose. Its alot better than it constantly leaking.
A: Daily and when you think there might be an issue. 4 point walk around, check all fluids hoses, etc. Or just use it and never check it. Out it the field doing a task is always the best time to discover problems. 🤣
@@MessicksEquip My MX5400 has a sight glass that makes it difficult to tell where the level is considering Kubota doesn't dye their fluid. Piss poor design and no my tractor does not have a hydraulic fluid dipstick.
You are a very good presenter with a lot of knowledge. Looking at the comments most of your customers have an IQ level in single figures. Sir I salute you.
Its been crazy rainy in the northeast this summer. I believe that is water that was trapped in some crevice of the loader frame that is running out and down the cylinder as the loader is cycled.
In reality people only check it when things stop working, usually the same people who figure out how to check the engine oil after the engine blows up.
Was looking for a short video on HOW to check fluid levels, top off fluid, what type of fluid to use, and how/when to change the hydraulic fluid. I own a BX23s. Yes the manual has this information, but nothing beats a how-to video for simplicity and the opportunity to connect with the Kubota community
Since best practice is to lower the loader and any rear implements when you park the tractor, that sets it up perfectly for checking the engine oil and hydraulic oil prior to starting the tractor the next time. It's also good practice to give the machine a quick walk-around and take note of any fresh spots of oil, if any, on the floor. Familiarize yourself with the color of the various fluids (engine oil, hydro oil and coolant) so you can easily recognize them if leaks occur.
EOSJOE thanks 😊...you saved me some time....
Just bought a BX2680 about 2 weeks ago, and that's what I do when I check the fluid level is to have the loader and 3 point on the ground after its parked overnight. I had a leak from a hydraulic line on the left side of the transmission area for a while that I couldn't find right off, but was a simple fix of just tightening a connection, no issues afterwards but wasn't bad enough to lower the fluid level in the reservoir, just annoying at first since its a brand new machine, and being new to tractors I thought it was a major problem, but I simply looked around with the tractor running, and eventually found where it was dripping.
I park in the grass
Good grief that's the info I needed but didn't get from the "expert". When to check, implements up or down is best. Why couldn't he just say that. Thanks.
Wow, I did not learn a thing in that commercial
That didn't help much.
Do you check it with the engine running?
What should the eyeglass look like when it's running and when it's stopped.
Yes the reason I watched to whole thing, and NO answer.
Exactly
I really appreciate your efforts.... I am a noob, and I need to confirm where to check, AND where to fill the hydraulic fluid. It would have been more helpful if you had shown us how to do that
Samuel Freeman It’s different for each tractor.
Refer to your owner's manual as different machines are going to have different places to check fluid levels.
@@wildbill23c better late than never, I guess, thanks anyway
@@wildbill23c Most of your Kubota mid range compacts will check the same. This guy should have shown it in his video. Not one of the more informative videos.
Original BX23, .. check it before each use. Old hoses may leak pinholes.. seals leave a thin film on rods. Seal on the filter may seep, PTO drive seals may seep.
My thoughts were always check the fluid with all the cylinders closed ,if you check it with the cylinders open it will check low and if you fill it to the full mark then close them something has to give from over fill pressure
All that and he never actually answered the question....when do you check the fluid....not How do you check it....
My bucket was up and my bckhoe was up. I pulled the filler tube, realized they were up, lowered them (tractor off) and it puked out a quart of oil. You sure it doesnt matter???
What tractor?
@@MessicksEquip - BX23s , I cant find anything in the manual how to check it wither. Doesnt say hot/cold or running/not running or all items at rest/fully extended etc. Video states it doesnt matter, but odd it puked out the oil.
Back story is backhoe disconnects were leaking. I heard the pump cavitation. Found leaks, tightened fittings and added oil to dipstick level. Worked tractor another 45 hours, heard cavitation noise again. Pulled plug and oil was almost to top of fill hole (way over filled). All implements were up, so I figured lowering them would drop the oil level. When I lowered the backhoe down, it puked out oil out of the filler hole. When i lowered the FEL, it puked out more oil.
Now I am wondering why it showed overfill after and sounds like it is cavitating again.
I may have missed it (not gonna watch again) but I dont recall Neil saying when to check the level.
Whenever you want as long as the loader and 3 point are in the same positions every time you check. Could be all the way down, all the way up, or somewhere in between but as long as you have them the same position each time it doesn't make any difference.
Hello,
Older video I know, but what about removing and reattaching implements? In other words, say I have the backhoe and loader on all summer but want to go to a plow or snow blower in the winter (plumbed in and using a 3rd function for this example). Do I check the fluid level and adjust for plow mode? Then the same question comes up in the spring, wouldn't there now be a possibility of being overfull after putting the backhoe and loader back on? Just curious, been running a BX 25 this way for 13 years, and it has never really been an issue, just curious more than anything. As always, thank you for the informative videos, Neal.
My boss almost burnt up a brandnew m7060 a leak developed on a disc harrow we had connected to the rear remotes had less than 4 gallons left of 15 gallons and smelled really burnt. I say check everything everytime it leaves the barn.
May not make much difference depending on the oil capacity, but double vs single acting cylinders could impact oil levels. For example, the lift cylinders on my CR9070 combine feeder house are single acting... When it is fully raised, the oil reservoir shows a little more than 1" lower on the sight glass when compared when it is fully lowered on the ground. That's why it's always good practice to have everything retracted before checking levels to not overfill the reservoir.
Yea, those cylinders are HUGE.
I have seen several instances where at the 50 hour fluid change, there seems to be a good amount of metal shavings found in the magnet ring and in other places. This obviously can be alarming to those who have never seen it before and are not educated to where those shavings are coming from. Kubota knows this is happening or they would not have included the magnets as a part of their filter assembly. It is apparent that Kubota knows where the shavings are coming from and it knows that the shavings pose no threat to the engine nor transmissions or they would have done something about it prior to this. Having seen one example showing the metal shavings as spiral debris, this could only come from the CNC process and due to not flushing at the time manufacture. No break-in wearing would have caused this. How such a large piece made it past the take up filter screen is still almost beyond belief. I can only imagine what is found clinging to the take up screen in such cases. What worries me the most is the smaller particles making it into the crank bushings and bearings. I know the engine design and the fluid flow filter arrangement protects the crankshaft from this but it is still worrisome.
you'll also find chunks of liquid gasket material. All our vendors require that 50-hour change, not unique to Kubota.
Messick's I know on critical systems such as helicopter gearboxes that oil samples are required to be taken and tested. This way they can see what gears wear and in fact where the metal is coming from. I guess what I’m getting at is perhaps something should be done to relieve the buyers stress and provide some explanation as what to expect and why. FYI I am not pointing fingers at Kubota. In fact I just agreed to purchase a L2501 geared unit from Normangee Tractors in Texas. I am, obviously sold on the Kubota line. The dealership in Texas and Kubota benefited from your hard work. Yes I expect all of the metal is from milling debris which was not flushed. RTV Silicon excess is also expected to find its way to the sump also. Hey..... I wanna be like you.....keep on keeping on.
I know this is old video, but maybe somebody will see it….I just changed all filters on my 2014 mx5200 gear drive at 185 hours. I got this used a couple years ago with 90 hours but wasn’t confident the prior owner did his 50 hour service. Anyway, as like all I dumped some hydro when switching filters and added 2 quarts back. I k ow consistent but it does make a big difference if loader is raised or lowered. At raised I see no fluid in window….lowered it shows half bubble. I’ve always at top of window before with all lowered so guess I will add 1 more quart
And yeah….wind was blowing fluid everywhere….what a mess.
I have a difficult time seeing the clear hydraulic fluid on the yellow dipstick, even out in the sunlight with my glasses on. Is there some sort of dye that can be added to the oil to make it show up better?
Thank you.
I have a sight glass and not a dipstick on my L3200 and have the same problem because the fluid has such a light amber color.
I use a lint free cloth and touch the dipstick to it and compare the wet mark with the dipstick.
Great job explaining how to check your fluid…
Should the hydraulic fluid be hot or cold when checking it's level?
Okay. Ummm, so WHEN do you check the fluid.
Any one else having issues with the quick hydraulic connect from the loader to the tractor leaking on these BX models? I have seen multiple people online having leaking issues. I am bringing my unit to the shop today.
was a very common problem when the tractor was introduced, the newer parts are better.
So when you change the hydraulic oil, how do you drain the oil in the cylinders? Do you have to remove each cylinder or is their an easier way?
you don't. when doing a drain you'll never get all the oil out.
Thanks
i know its not the focus of the video but im really liking these bx tractors more and more. ive considered trading in my two tractors for a used bx25 or something like it.
I have this same tractor, BX23S and I absolutely love it. Mainly because of the backhoe it only takes a few minutes to take it off and switch to a 3 point hitch and if you get the quick release front bucket you switch out the bucket to a set of forks. The BX23S is really good at everything. Highly recommend it
If the backhoe is hooked up, does it change the level enough to have it not even show up in the sight tube? Thanks
Neal, any advice on minimal loss of hydro fluid when changing the hydraulic filter on an MX 4800? It continues to run until the new filter is completely seated back on. I felt as if I lost more then I probably should. Still looked good in the window on the reservoir, but would like to know if there’s a way to minimize the amount you lose when changing the filter. Thanks!
Shop vac on the fill port so there is a vacuum.
I want to comment on the bx2680 quick 4-way latching hydraulic connect. Mine has 30 hrs on it, and I have only removed the loader once and put it back on. Mine is leaking fluid and I am seeing its a common issue for other people as well across the internet. I am hearing that even if you replace the entire top section that it works for a while then starts leaking again. It appears to me that its a bad design on Kubota's part. Does Kubota make a kit to convert this back to 4 single quick connects couplers and plugs. I don't mind if I have to get off the tractor and unplug each hose. Its alot better than it constantly leaking.
Early parts had some QC problems. Most of the time we update them and its fine. You can remove it for $100 in parts
Thanks Neil !
A: Daily and when you think there might be an issue. 4 point walk around, check all fluids hoses, etc.
Or just use it and never check it. Out it the field doing a task is always the best time to discover problems. 🤣
How do you check the fluid I don't even know where to check it
There is a dipstick at the back of the tractor. its detailed very clearly in your owner's manual.
@@MessicksEquip My MX5400 has a sight glass that makes it difficult to tell where the level is considering Kubota doesn't dye their fluid. Piss poor design and no my tractor does not have a hydraulic fluid dipstick.
where do you check it and how to add to it
I have had a problem on our MF gc2600 were it goes slower in reverse but it’s fine going forward just slow backwards and it’s not stuck in a gear?
HST linkage
Messick Farm Equipment So would it just be a stuck. Or?
Out of adjustment
I have a kubota b2601 and sometimes when I raise the loader the engine makes like a little rev noise and then goes away. Is that normal? Thanks
Mine does the same so yes
You are a very good presenter with a lot of knowledge. Looking at the comments most of your customers have an IQ level in single figures. Sir I salute you.
If you are expecting him to send you a gift, then good job. But if you came here to insult, take a hike.
Can I get one of those brand new dropped sideways and busted off the trailer in my driveway for a discount ? 😁
Does it matter if you check your fluid when the FEL is off or on?
No
Great explanation!
OMG look at that cylinder leak fluid at 2:21 :P
Internet Disclaimer; this comment is humour not being serious
Its been crazy rainy in the northeast this summer. I believe that is water that was trapped in some crevice of the loader frame that is running out and down the cylinder as the loader is cycled.
Every time before you use it duh
3 point hitch and loader down cold
There you go. Thanks for not say "be consistent".
Running or off, thats all I wanted to know
You never said how to check it!
In reality people only check it when things stop working, usually the same people who figure out how to check the engine oil after the engine blows up.
Aaaa... never? If it’s still working it’s fine. If it’s not fine call somebody. :)
Didn't show at all what I clicked on
That was no help thanks