The original paint is rough but still salvageable I think. I have a 1981 Sprint which suffered from similar unnecessary neglect with frame rust spots and a few paint chips. I got the original paint looking like new with blending automotive touch-up paint by hand. I remember the Super Competition model for 81 and 82. It was the second from the top below the Professional. Dream bike. Despite the rough shape of your bike, the Pearl White color your Super Competition is should be relatively easy to get a match for. If you are willing to have a go, with patience and a lot of time, the original paint can be touched up with fine brushes, sponges and a bit of merging of the touch up paint, basically lightly smudging and blending it in to areas where the paint is in better condition. The decals are salvageable too, with some masking tape and black oil based model paint. The orange Peugeot letters on the downtube are a match with 1970s vintage Dodge work trucks which were painted in exactly the same color as the Peugeot letters. Lots of masking and patience is the most important to get a good result. Use paint thinners to thin out the paint and prevent it from drying too quickly. The paint thinners though eats those orange decals, so prevent it from getting on them, including WD40, its a similar petroleum solvent not good for the decals. Again, the Peugeot Pearl White should be relatively easy to get a match for, you can get that frame back to looking like new. My Peugeot Sprint paint rejuvenation odyssey was frought by many failed and repeated attempts until I got both the color match and the blending technique down. It was lots of paint thinners, strong paper towels, masking tape and calm nerves after repeated failure until i got it right. A jewellers loupe also helped for the touch up process around the decals, with of course masking. Last but not least was preparation. A bare frame without cables and other things in the way and wearing very thin rubber gloves for the painting.
Working on a PV10 right now. Same year ('83) same color. Mine has similar rust spots but to a much lesser degree. I used T-cut and touch up paint in just a few areas. The white pearl is so gorgeous I can't convince myself to strip it.
I just picked up a Benotto from a cycling expert for free. It's about a 1975 and has about 20 miles on it. It has amazing patina which I'm going to leave as much as I can I've cleaned it up the dust and gunk. It needed a chain tires and a tube a seatpost Bolt. I think I can use the cables and the brake cable housings. I think the rest might help it not get stolen. The bike is for my daughter but it's just wonderful to work on. It even has a heart-shaped cut out on the bottom bracket lug. It's amazing the amount of details that they used to put on bikes. Anyways I think it's going to be the like one of the rustiest bikes on the road in excellent condition. Having fun for free gotta love bicycles.
I like to clean and polish an old frame and keep the patina. It's more fun for me to focus on cleaning and restoration of the mechanical components. When a bike rides like a dream again, that is where I get satisfaction, and the old Patina just looks right.
I have a 1953 Raleigh sport in the same condition pretty much. Its been hand painted by someone in its lifetime. I'm going to just sand the rust and hammerite paint it over with a brush until I can dry store it, then the proper restoration will start 😉 Nice Peugeot by the way 👍
I used to run, along with Alf Engers*, a Huret 'Jubilee' derailleur on a TT bike as these were the lightest available at the time. *Alf was a multi TT national champion and record holder 1960s-80s and you may have heard of him. But you wouldn't have heard of me...
Beautiful bike! Important to note that in Europe, there may have been more models offered than I think we could get in the U.S. This appears to be a Euro bike, so 700c wheelset, and would have originally come with simplex friction shifters, and derailleurs. While that's a very nice Huret set, I like the feel of the simplex much better. The TA crankset was also not original to that model, although the TA is an excellent crankset, IF you can find the right rings to get the gearing dialed in to suit your terrain. The gold anodized MAFAC competitions would have been an upgrade and not original, although I believe they did come with the normal aluminum colored MAFAC Competitions. That model was the PV-10 (3-tubes Reynolds 531 + forks in Reynolds 531). Was just behind the PX-10 on the hierarchy ladder. The frame weighs about 500 grams or so more than the PX-10, so not a lot of difference.The "Super Competition" sticker was affixed to the top tube on both the PV-10 and PX-10 models. The info provided above is for bikes offered in France. There may have been variations for the UK market. There was also the PY-10 (Professional), which had a couple more upgrades over the PX-10.
As the owner of essentially the same bike in similar condition, your video was most informative. Any suggestions for improving the appearance of rusty spokes? I still enjoy the hell out of my Super Compétition, age spots and all!
Nice frame. Love those old Peugeots. I would completely strip it back to base metal and respray in original colour. Would look the dog's b*llocks afterwards!
The original paint is rough but still salvageable I think. I have a 1981 Sprint which suffered from similar unnecessary neglect with frame rust spots and a few paint chips. I got the original paint looking like new with blending automotive touch-up paint by hand. I remember the Super Competition model for 81 and 82. It was the second from the top below the Professional. Dream bike. Despite the rough shape of your bike, the Pearl White color your Super Competition is should be relatively easy to get a match for. If you are willing to have a go, with patience and a lot of time, the original paint can be touched up with fine brushes, sponges and a bit of merging of the touch up paint, basically lightly smudging and blending it in to areas where the paint is in better condition. The decals are salvageable too, with some masking tape and black oil based model paint. The orange Peugeot letters on the downtube are a match with 1970s vintage Dodge work trucks which were painted in exactly the same color as the Peugeot letters. Lots of masking and patience is the most important to get a good result.
Use paint thinners to thin out the paint and prevent it from drying too quickly. The paint thinners though eats those orange decals, so prevent it from getting on them, including WD40, its a similar petroleum solvent not good for the decals.
Again, the Peugeot Pearl White should be relatively easy to get a match for, you can get that frame back to looking like new. My Peugeot Sprint paint rejuvenation odyssey was frought by many failed and repeated attempts until I got both the color match and the blending technique down. It was lots of paint thinners, strong paper towels, masking tape and calm nerves after repeated failure until i got it right. A jewellers loupe also helped for the touch up process around the decals, with of course masking. Last but not least was preparation. A bare frame without cables and other things in the way and wearing very thin rubber gloves for the painting.
Working on a PV10 right now. Same year ('83) same color. Mine has similar rust spots but to a much lesser degree. I used T-cut and touch up paint in just a few areas. The white pearl is so gorgeous I can't convince myself to strip it.
I just picked up a Benotto from a cycling expert for free. It's about a 1975 and has about 20 miles on it. It has amazing patina which I'm going to leave as much as I can I've cleaned it up the dust and gunk. It needed a chain tires and a tube a seatpost Bolt. I think I can use the cables and the brake cable housings. I think the rest might help it not get stolen. The bike is for my daughter but it's just wonderful to work on. It even has a heart-shaped cut out on the bottom bracket lug. It's amazing the amount of details that they used to put on bikes. Anyways I think it's going to be the like one of the rustiest bikes on the road in excellent condition. Having fun for free gotta love bicycles.
Sorry for the late reply, I hope your Benotto project went well. Thanks!
I like to clean and polish an old frame and keep the patina. It's more fun for me to focus on cleaning and restoration of the mechanical components. When a bike rides like a dream again, that is where I get satisfaction, and the old Patina just looks right.
Good point, I just love these frames and can’t help but want to restore them. Cheers
I have a 1953 Raleigh sport in the same condition pretty much. Its been hand painted by someone in its lifetime. I'm going to just sand the rust and hammerite paint it over with a brush until I can dry store it, then the proper restoration will start 😉
Nice Peugeot by the way 👍
I used to run, along with Alf Engers*, a Huret 'Jubilee' derailleur on a TT bike as these were the lightest available at the time.
*Alf was a multi TT national champion and record holder 1960s-80s and you may have heard of him.
But you wouldn't have heard of me...
Thanks for the comment, I have heard of Alf and I'm very glad you watched my video. It must have been hard keeping up with Alf back in the day!
Beautiful bike! Important to note that in Europe, there may have been more models offered than I think we could get in the U.S. This appears to be a Euro bike, so 700c wheelset, and would have originally come with simplex friction shifters, and derailleurs. While that's a very nice Huret set, I like the feel of the simplex much better.
The TA crankset was also not original to that model, although the TA is an excellent crankset, IF you can find the right rings to get the gearing dialed in to suit your terrain. The gold anodized MAFAC competitions would have been an upgrade and not original, although I believe they did come with the normal aluminum colored MAFAC Competitions. That model was the PV-10 (3-tubes Reynolds 531 + forks in Reynolds 531). Was just behind the PX-10 on the hierarchy ladder. The frame weighs about 500 grams or so more than the PX-10, so not a lot of difference.The "Super Competition" sticker was affixed to the top tube on both the PV-10 and PX-10 models.
The info provided above is for bikes offered in France. There may have been variations for the UK market. There was also the PY-10 (Professional), which had a couple more upgrades over the PX-10.
Thanks for the great info. I love those gold anodised Mafac Competition brakes!
As the owner of essentially the same bike in similar condition, your video was most informative. Any suggestions for improving the appearance of rusty spokes? I still enjoy the hell out of my Super Compétition, age spots and all!
wd40 or vinegar with steel pad
Nice frame. Love those old Peugeots. I would completely strip it back to base metal and respray in original colour. Would look the dog's b*llocks afterwards!