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Fantastic Video! Thank you for teaching me how to trouble shoot my problem!

Have you managed to get it off later?

Dude , banging on a pedal wrench with a rubber hammer? Really thats the best you've got? No wonder you damaged the flats. Sure you used the proper crank puller? Or were the threads damaged by using the wrong puller with the wrong threads. Soak those parts with penetrant before even attempting their removal😢

Its actually a 1986 Allez SE based upon the color scheme and decals. The 1987s had a different decal set up. It could well have been sold originally in 1987, but its a 1986. I still have my 1986 Minx Blue Allez SE, my first ever racing bike. Assuming that you can get it fixed up, just slap a replacement carbon fork on it and she'll ride beautifully.

Mines rounded any suggestions

Ill be darn. It worked!. Now I can cancel my 3D printed tool that most likely would have broke anyway.

I was trying to use a cable wire myself but no go. Now after watching this I will try again with your method. I'll be back in 5 minutes with the results :)

I have just encountered a complete functional failure on my front Weinmann centre-pull brake.. In my panic to fix it I was stupid and unscrewed the "suicide lever" that was connected to the main hand lever. Not only did I make things worse I cannot now reassemble the suicide lever to the hand lever. I must be assembling the lever components in the wrong order. Can anyone suggest the right sequence? The components are two plain washers, a crinkly washer, and a plastic bush. Once I manage to figure that out I aim to buy a new cable and housing.

The fork looked like it was damaged. Good luck and thanks for the video.

Working on a PV10 right now. Same year ('83) same color. Mine has similar rust spots but to a much lesser degree. I used T-cut and touch up paint in just a few areas. The white pearl is so gorgeous I can't convince myself to strip it.

I have removed cranks where the puller stripped the threads, took the chain rings off like you did, then you can use a pickle fork/ ball joint remover tool.

Nice job, you have your seat clamp on backwards, the bolt always goes to the rear.

Great advice, thank you.

I would go for the 80s Peugeot over the Trek (in fact I own a PH501). By the 90s I'd be choosing the Treks every time.

This is genius! And exactly what I needed!! Thank you!

Sepeda ini masih sangat layak untuk dipakai dengan beberapa sentuhan tangan kreatif.

Hosing down an old bike like this is sacrilege. Don't let water go down the seat tube or into the head tube. It stays there for years and rusts out the frame. Then it's ruined. Get a spray bottle of weak dish soap mixture and gently WIPE it down. If you really want to preserve it, spray it down with a few coats of nano-coating for car finishes. Works wonders, waterproofs the whole bike.

a good pijo !!!!

I have a 69/70 The Color is Gold Peugeot with all the original decals and stickers need to be restored do anybody know the value need to be restored no rust when I bought the when I bought my house it was hanging up under my house

Beautiful bikes and a very useable, plush daily ride. 😎

use a scaffold bar not your bike and and prevent any risk of damage to top tube!

I fitted a new cassette and chsin and my chain slipped forward and fell off my bike on a busy road, so fitted another new cassette and a chain both Sram and its still slipping not sure what it could be.

labibleduvelocataloguespeugeot1.blogspot.com Catalogues. Saddle was a Brooks B17. Gear shifters updated.

Tighten the quick release skewer/lever against the freewheel remover tool to stop the tool from dislodging. It has to be really tight. Apply pressure to the wrench only till the block begins to move, then release the lever as you continue to turn the wrench.

I like to clean and polish an old frame and keep the patina. It's more fun for me to focus on cleaning and restoration of the mechanical components. When a bike rides like a dream again, that is where I get satisfaction, and the old Patina just looks right.

2 weld tacks so you have the grip back?

for now you might need a grinder

Next time you can use a torch and heat that freewheel up nice and hot near the threads. then insert the tool. make sure it stays nicely in place, have a second guy holding the wheel infront of that wall and hammer the shit of out the wrench in the right directlion. you may have to do this quite a few times.

There was some good beats there. and you knew it. haha....

I think thath The wheel center cone is out of The correct position. observe thath how The small cog is far from The frame.

I would just change the wheel, what else... I had the similar problem,and it was a simple solution of playing around with the low gear screw,and the B screw 😅 Of course it was a modern derailleur! Greetings from Kris from Croatia Have a nice and safe rides!🙂

Unfortunately, that block has had it. Remove the smallest sprocket (2 chain whips) strip the freehub (centre punch) and clamp the body in a large vice and undo. You can still find old pattern multi freewheels ,choices maybe limited

Just a thought, would a few more links in your chain allow the derailleur tensioner arm to open up, run closer to vertical and put the component that's touching the spokes further out, towards the wheel rim where the spokes have moved away? Does this still happen with the chain running on the larger front gear?

The smaller the sprocket, the closer it will be to the spokes, either fit a block with a larger bottom sprocket or fit a spacer behind the block. Also, aluminium hardens with age ( age hardening ) be very careful with old aluminium components.

coconut butter - it a wonder and cheap

Or dishing the wheel

Wouldn’t spacer work behind sprocket so derailleur wouldn’t have to travel as far

Second, I always try to put the freewheel tool in a bench vise, then place the wheel assy on the tool, and use the whole wheel as the "wrench", to maximise the torque applied to the freewheel. With a gently bit of downward force applied while torquing the wheel, there might still be enough "meat" left on the freewheel for this to work. Or, maybe you could use this bench vise trick, but plug in a chain whip for the freewheel tool.

First, I had the derailleur-versus-spokes issue on a vintage bicycle myself. I resolved the issue by installing a spoke protector (also know, affectionately by me, as a "dork disk). The inner flange of the spoke protector, aka, the inner radius portion near the threads of the hub, acts as a spacer, pushing the whole of the freewheel just a few millimeters further outboard on the hub. It may seem counterintuitive to add something inboard of the freewheel, but it did the job for me. If you don't like the looks of a spoke protector, there were 80's vintage models that had a clear plastic outer rim... the plastic often turns yellow and cracks off; you can break off the plastic portion and use the leftover metal ring just as a spacer (check that the spacing works before going thru this effort though). If your bicycle had been raced, back in the day, then it's possible that the owner swapped freewheels, depending on the race course. So chances are that the freewheel might not be original to the bicycle (if that is a concern).

... use a lock ring ...

The whole time I was thinking it was a 1975 Gitane (nearly all the components are identical) UNTIL I saw the rose paint....yep, a Mercier and most likely stolen, which is probably why it was repainted to cover up that beautiful and unique colour.

A little tip: If you hold the rim at two points that 180 degrees apart and push down with your torso weight while trying to rotate, it will require much less torque and loosen so much easier.

Pretty❤good job, we share hobby😊

Nice looking bike! It doesn't look 59! 😅 Greetings from Kris from Croatia 😎

The only way to take the cranks and pedals off is by heating, take a gas burner than it will always release.

... /... , what size ? How many sprockets ?

Always wanted one. I ran a Gitane TdF as an SS for years. I love the Frenchies, but they are work. Love those cranks.

I've seen Jan Heine lift his rear wheel off the ground when stopping with old Mafac Raid brakes. I had an old Raleigh with centerpulls and fully loaded panniers and been riding down long, steep 500-meter descents in the pouring rain, and stopped fine once when a feral pig ran in front of me.

gitane?

…at the bottom of the head lug…