Thankyou for your test-video. I used vinegar-baking soda-salt-dishwasher. I read that stainless steel can be polished with this stuff, plus vinegar is environmental friendy, it is based on alcohol. It is acid and quite strong as odour, but you can use it for laundry smell and opening drains and cleaning windows and other. My stuff made cover of rust after I left it on bearings, so as well vinegar removes rust, it also makes rust. depending how you use it.
I’ve been using Evaporust for 3 years based on your videos. Way better than vinegar. I did find it’s “shortcoming” - or actually mine. If you leave a tool in it for a long period time - make sure it’s in a sealed container. I had mine in an open tub and forgot about it. 6 weeks later, the evaporust solution evaporated (no pun intended) leaving my tools in a black tar that was hard as heck to remove. Moral of the story is to put it in a sealed container - and no issues.
FYI: Evapo-Rust is water based...you can add water that is lost to evaporation during use. Not sure if that would rehab a dried-out batch! ;-) Once opened, if you seal it, it is designed to deactivate via anaerobic bacteria. www.flagshipindia.in/evapo-rust-faq.html
Evapo-Rust def has my vote. Im a firm&true believer. Save your self time, work and your health (beats sanding off rust). Also, Harbor Freight with the 25% coupon (available for Holidays) is THE BEST DEAL! When using I also dilute it with water and still works amazing.
Counterpoint about color and oxalic acid: it might have restored the color back to its actual original palette unlike the metal rescue which clearly took the palette down too far. That color of the frame is "winter mint" and looks a bit more stock from oxalic acid
Looking forward to your next video on doing a whole frame. I have one that needs doing and i cant find a tub that will fit the whole thing. I have used both evaporust and oxalic acid in the past and both work pretty good. If you have rust around eyelets on a top tube i found that making a paste with a few drops of water and oxalic acid works great. Apply the paste to the eyelet/cable guide with a q-tip and let it sit. It will dry out but all you need to do is put a single drop of water on it or use the moist qtip to re-hydrate the paste. I then use another qtip to apply a rust proof primer like a small paint brush to the part after a through rinse and dry so it doesnt rust again. Works great.
I did a whole riding lawn mower deck in vapo-rust. I had to build a wood frame and layer up tarps. However, although expensive large containers can be found that are used for hydroponics. Though with that you have no control over the volume of fluid you need as you would when you build your own.
I use lock tire naval jelly, bush it on, let it sit for a hour a use a Scott bright pad and wash it off. I ve used a hose but a pressure washer works great. Works great on rims and chrome
Nice demonstration and comparison of solvents... I have always used Evaporust and now feel better about never trying anything else, I have always been impressed on how it removes the surface rust off all bolts and nuts, small chrome parts and frame without damaging the original paint...I also use Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver for parts of the frame that can't be soaked, its also safe on any surface and will not damage paint. Thanks for sharing...
Rj, im curious as to what the inside of the tubing looks like. I have a Lemond frame that ive been thinking about sealing the holes on and filling it with a rust remover washing it out and then blasting it dry with a compressor for restoration.
Someone made similar test and had winner liquid that was expensive. Best method was grinding ;) but you should paint it again after grinding, so different than just removing rust.
The Evaporust can has instructions on tubing: they should be wrapped in soaked paper towels, & wrapped again in, say, cling film, to keep it moist & active.
I use vinegar mostly to clean up old chains (I fix up a lot donated vintage bikes) and I find it just might need a bit more time. I like vinegar because it's cheap, washes off clean with water, and I don't mind if I spill it or whatever
How to best treat the rusted places on bike bike frames for which I want to keep the remaining paint remains a mystery to me. A 16 square foot tray and 5 gallons of Evapo-rust? Anxiously waiting for you to solve this rust crime in a video. No one else can do this for me. Thanks for all your help on so many things so far.
Don’t need to dip the complete frame all you need to do is block up all the holes and gaps the chemicals can leak out of but leave the seat tube clear…possibly the head tube if hanging from there! leave over night the drain and add some rust converter….again leave over night… The final cure is after the frame is fully dry,use a hair dryer etc….block up all the holes again then add very inexpensive raw linseed oil ! mix it around in the frame obviously covering the filling hole! then drain out….leave for maybe a week to dry… NO MORE RUST ISSUES! i done a very rusty and damaged Surly using this method ☺️👊🏻
Red pigments can be impacted more than other hues, simply because they often use ferric oxide as a colorant. Also, I've heard that oxalic acid is not recommended for use on chromed surfaces, as it can affect the plating.
@Stephen Morton I'm just messing with ya', while passing along a friendly warning to readers. Perhaps they can be spared some tears. In the antique bike counter-culture, the mere suggestion of a re-paint might be considered "fightin' words."
I’ve seen citric acid used on chrome rust removal, but not used on a painted surface. I would think it would have the same effect on the paint since it is much softer than chrome. I’m curious though how it would react with powder coated parts though.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show us all. Do any rust removers affect the strength of any metals? I've heard the black residue left behind is some of the carbon in the metal being drawn out. Would that weaken the metal?
You can frame up a 'water' bed;strip your bike down to the frame and lay the bike on the water bed. Put your Evapo-rust in only the channel part of the water bed that holds the frame. Will take about two gallons max and you can reuse the Evapo-rust for other tasks.
I got very good results with Rustyco when derusting parts of my Citroën DS from 1968. You can buy it also as a gel. In this way I derusted the fuel tank. Isn't it available where you live? BTW thanks for you're tutorials!
Metal Rescue for me, way way cheaper than Evapo Rust, but then.. i don't soak frames. When i do use it for painted mudguards or parts that are painted i believe it actually goes back to it's original colour or rather restores it
Ask guys who restore vintage bikes. Oxalic acid is the go to. It's muuuuch cheaper than the Evapo. It works best when it's heated first and will yield the same results as the Evaporust. For small parts use Evaporust. On an entire frame, take a 50-60-gal bin and fill it with boiling water, then add the oxalic acid. Let it sit for 24 hours. Here's a link to an all-chrome Spaceliner that was restored using oxalic acid. instagram.com/p/BkWAaQBHLlf/
Well now my question has an answer, Evapo-Rust or Metal Restorer, which is better? Going to pick up some Evapo-Rust this week.. thanks for another helpful video
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks, my concern was cleaning rust from a bike that I want to keep the original paint. It's a beautiful tandem yellow between 1965 to 70. My blind uncle left it to me.
@@RJTheBikeGuy this is literally the video i have been waiting for... I can't thankyou enough for this! Unfortunately I have to push the envelope a bit.... If you could run the same test with a bike with either orange or red paint it would be the absolute all time best... reason being (2 fold) I have heard the certain red and orange paints have ferric oxide in them as part of the coloring (which is what rust is) and i myself have a classic coppertone (orangish) schwinn stingray that i would love to use some evaporust on but am afraid that it might damage the paint. A retest on red/orange paint will answer the question of whether or not this is a good course of action. Thanks again! Great Job!
RJ The Bike Guy I assume that the gel can facilitate the direct application at some specific point of the bike, without the need of immersion bath... maybe!
I believe Evapo-rust and Metal Rescue work by removing the oxygen atom, and leaving the iron atoms. I believe the acids work by removing the iron-oxide molecule.
Definite coincidence 😂 nicely compared RJ. I’ve dunked a frame in Oxalic before and it worked well to remove the rust staining to the paint but thinking about it it did dull the colours slightly.
I know people are joking about cutting their frame up to do this, but do you have any suggestions for applying it to an intact frame? I'm restoring two bikes for my girls and I'm new to everything like this. I'm trying to think what would be big enough to lay a frame in to soak??? Or is there other "application" methods besides soaking?
Oh, my other thing. Although the Metal Rescue appeared to take off some of the color, was it a smoother transition from the bare metal to the paint that remained. I was just thinking that may actually save me time sanding!
@@RJTheBikeGuy you are the judge ;-) It was a very bold color scheme for the time. Again, thanks for the test, and the "sacrifice" was worth it, especially as the color change is a concern when applying it only partially.
Really enjoy your videos RJ! I’ve seen the trick you do where you wrap the parts with towels soaked in the EvapoRust in your “how to remove seat post” vid when you wrapped the bars. Works great and thank you for the tips! Where do you find the Evapo Rust? Thanks again! Tim
I have done it I think in a couple of my vids, though I don't remember doing it in a seatpost vid. I did it on the handlebars here: ruclips.net/video/bxy6hdUOrlc/видео.html
I used krud kutter and omg is was so bad. I put the chain in there and it freaking devolved the chain into little bits and pieces. I do not recommend and it smelled so bad that I felt like I wanted to throw up. I couldn’t work in the garage for a few days.
If the chain gets super rusty, chuck it and buy a new chain. The insides get damaged as well. Second, try Evapo Rust. ruclips.net/video/1zXzFFXbuMw/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy in my experience citric acid works a lot better and faster than vinegar, especially if you make it a strong solution and use warm water, it's also cheap vs other options (from Asian supermarkets), doesn't smell bad and is easy to store as it's a powder
I see this suggestion often. I have tested coke as a rust remover, and it didn't do anything. ruclips.net/video/DZVdkLWAurE/видео.html So what does coke do here? Basically a lubricant? Maybe water would do as well? WD-40. Why coke? The crumpled foil is just like steel wool, except aluminum is softer than steel and less likely to scratch.
You cut up an '87 Schwinn Traveler with a little rust? RJ, you need to learn to paint, brother. Or become a therapist because I'm in need of one after witnessing that needless death.
I knew someone would comment. It also had some dents. It was in pretty bad shape. I bought it for $5 to do this video. I also did this video with it as well: ruclips.net/video/xRIFqasCOSg/видео.html
just get an aluminium bike frame so you can just save a load of money... ;) even dough, the vinegar did the worst but its the only one of these that is not heavy chemical stuff...its natural... for the others just be careful where to dispose the dirty solution...
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
OK.... I've cut the bike down into pieces and de-rusted them, but I'm not sure how to get the bike back together again. Can you help?
duct tape ;)
Schwinn RIP (rust in pieces)
U need the power of flex tape
ROBinJVILLE and flex seal to ensure there is no bending
LOLOL
Thankyou for your test-video. I used vinegar-baking soda-salt-dishwasher. I read that stainless steel can be polished with this stuff, plus vinegar is environmental friendy, it is based on alcohol. It is acid and quite strong as odour, but you can use it for laundry smell and opening drains and cleaning windows and other.
My stuff made cover of rust after I left it on bearings, so as well vinegar removes rust, it also makes rust. depending how you use it.
I’ve been using Evaporust for 3 years based on your videos. Way better than vinegar. I did find it’s “shortcoming” - or actually mine. If you leave a tool in it for a long period time - make sure it’s in a sealed container. I had mine in an open tub and forgot about it. 6 weeks later, the evaporust solution evaporated (no pun intended) leaving my tools in a black tar that was hard as heck to remove. Moral of the story is to put it in a sealed container - and no issues.
FYI: Evapo-Rust is water based...you can add water that is lost to evaporation during use. Not sure if that would rehab a dried-out batch! ;-) Once opened, if you seal it, it is designed to deactivate via anaerobic bacteria. www.flagshipindia.in/evapo-rust-faq.html
Evapo-Rust def has my vote. Im a firm&true believer. Save your self time, work and your health (beats sanding off rust). Also, Harbor Freight with the 25% coupon (available for Holidays) is THE BEST DEAL! When using I also dilute it with water and still works amazing.
Counterpoint about color and oxalic acid: it might have restored the color back to its actual original palette unlike the metal rescue which clearly took the palette down too far. That color of the frame is "winter mint" and looks a bit more stock from oxalic acid
For some reason I love your videos and find them so entertaining.cant stop watching.keep up the good work 😋
Thx for the like rj
Looking forward to your next video on doing a whole frame. I have one that needs doing and i cant find a tub that will fit the whole thing. I have used both evaporust and oxalic acid in the past and both work pretty good. If you have rust around eyelets on a top tube i found that making a paste with a few drops of water and oxalic acid works great. Apply the paste to the eyelet/cable guide with a q-tip and let it sit. It will dry out but all you need to do is put a single drop of water on it or use the moist qtip to re-hydrate the paste. I then use another qtip to apply a rust proof primer like a small paint brush to the part after a through rinse and dry so it doesnt rust again. Works great.
I did a whole riding lawn mower deck in vapo-rust. I had to build a wood frame and layer up tarps. However, although expensive large containers can be found that are used for hydroponics. Though with that you have no control over the volume of fluid you need as you would when you build your own.
I use lock tire naval jelly, bush it on, let it sit for a hour a use a Scott bright pad and wash it off. I ve used a hose but a pressure washer works great. Works great on rims and chrome
Nice demonstration and comparison of solvents... I have always used Evaporust and now feel better about never trying anything else, I have always been impressed on how it removes the surface rust off all bolts and nuts, small chrome parts and frame without damaging the original paint...I also use Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver for parts of the frame that can't be soaked, its also safe on any surface and will not damage paint. Thanks for sharing...
Rj, im curious as to what the inside of the tubing looks like. I have a Lemond frame that ive been thinking about sealing the holes on and filling it with a rust remover washing it out and then blasting it dry with a compressor for restoration.
Damnit that's one of my favorite frames. A winter mint traveler lol
Thank you. If you put the pieces in an ultrasound bath with each solution you might speed things up and eliminate the need to keep wiping the parts.
Someone made similar test and had winner liquid that was expensive. Best method was grinding ;) but you should paint it again after grinding, so different than just removing rust.
Hey RJ, have you tried using Evapo-rust on an entire frame? What's the best way to do this?
Be rich. It costs a fortune to have enough to cover the frame. You can also soak paper towels but it won't deal with rust inside the frame.
The Evaporust can has instructions on tubing: they should be wrapped in soaked paper towels, & wrapped again in, say, cling film, to keep it moist & active.
Evapo def wins. :)
New drinking game. . . “Here” 27. “There” 32. . . “There” wins! Love your videos!
Just what we were looking for in the csmper.
Bicycle art: make wind chimes out of those tubes!
I have had good luck with the Evapo-Rust on unpainted parts but for a painted part I always sandblast it.
I use vinegar mostly to clean up old chains (I fix up a lot donated vintage bikes) and I find it just might need a bit more time. I like vinegar because it's cheap, washes off clean with water, and I don't mind if I spill it or whatever
Looking forward to seeing how you remove rust from an entire frame not cut into pieces. I have devised a way but am curious to see your approach.
I have my normal method, but I have something I want to try also.
@@RJTheBikeGuy what is your method I checked but I dont believe you made a video explaining the process
Where do you describe "your method"?
Very cool video! Caught my attention within the first few seconds of watching it.
Citric acid is awesome too use 👍
I'm pondering on using some Hammerite paint on my cromoly frame. Just on a rusty bit between the rear forks.
Once again another excellent video well presented with excellent attention to detail, great demonstration of products, thank for your time.. 👌
What do you recommend for treating the frame post-rust removal? Or is it just sand, primer and repaint?
Clear coat.
How to best treat the rusted places on bike bike frames for which I want to keep the remaining paint remains a mystery to me. A 16 square foot tray and 5 gallons of Evapo-rust? Anxiously waiting for you to solve this rust crime in a video. No one else can do this for me. Thanks for all your help on so many things so far.
Don’t need to dip the complete frame all you need to do is block up all the holes and gaps the chemicals can leak out of but leave the seat tube clear…possibly the head tube if hanging from there! leave over night the drain and add some rust converter….again leave over night…
The final cure is after the frame is fully dry,use a hair dryer etc….block up all the holes again then add very inexpensive raw linseed oil ! mix it around in the frame obviously covering the filling hole! then drain out….leave for maybe a week to dry…
NO MORE RUST ISSUES! i done a very rusty and damaged Surly using this method ☺️👊🏻
Red pigments can be impacted more than other hues, simply because they often use ferric oxide as a colorant. Also, I've heard that oxalic acid is not recommended for use on chromed surfaces, as it can affect the plating.
Sure....I guess those parts started out pink. And all that flaking? It's just "shiny dirt."
@Stephen Morton I'm just messing with ya', while passing along a friendly warning to readers. Perhaps they can be spared some tears. In the antique bike counter-culture, the mere suggestion of a re-paint might be considered "fightin' words."
Quite the contrary. It did well on an all-chrome Spaceliner.
I’ve seen citric acid used on chrome rust removal, but not used on a painted surface. I would think it would have the same effect on the paint since it is much softer than chrome. I’m curious though how it would react with powder coated parts though.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show us all. Do any rust removers affect the strength of any metals? I've heard the black residue left behind is some of the carbon in the metal being drawn out. Would that weaken the metal?
If you leave the parts in them too long. At least for the acids. I am pretty sure it doesn't draw carbon out.
This is very useful for all
You can frame up a 'water' bed;strip your bike down to the frame and lay the bike on the water bed. Put your Evapo-rust in only the channel part of the water bed that holds the frame. Will take about two gallons max and you can reuse the Evapo-rust for other tasks.
It is a bit hard to submerge an entire frame - what do you think of using targeted Evapo-rust Gel on a painted frame?
I got very good results with Rustyco when derusting parts of my Citroën DS from 1968.
You can buy it also as a gel. In this way I derusted the fuel tank. Isn't it available where you live? BTW thanks for you're tutorials!
Cool video as always 😎
Thanks!
Metal Rescue for me, way way cheaper than Evapo Rust, but then.. i don't soak frames. When i do use it for painted mudguards or parts that are painted i believe it actually goes back to it's original colour or rather restores it
Thx for the like RJ
Ask guys who restore vintage bikes. Oxalic acid is the go to. It's muuuuch cheaper than the Evapo. It works best when it's heated first and will yield the same results as the Evaporust. For small parts use Evaporust. On an entire frame, take a 50-60-gal bin and fill it with boiling water, then add the oxalic acid. Let it sit for 24 hours. Here's a link to an all-chrome Spaceliner that was restored using oxalic acid. instagram.com/p/BkWAaQBHLlf/
Cranky Chain Cycles Just wait a few minutes while I boil 60 gallons of water 😂
spoiler alert: Evapo-Rust wins.
Sixth Sense: Bruce Willis is a ghost.
RJ The Bike Guy dangit man I haven’t seen that one yet 😂 thanks a lot
Well now my question has an answer, Evapo-Rust or Metal Restorer, which is better?
Going to pick up some Evapo-Rust this week.. thanks for another helpful video
Not sure about any of the others, but given enough time vinegar will remove zinc plating off any parts too.
Did you add salt to the vinegar?
I'm wander was the paint compromised or cleaned. I'd love to see this tried on newer clean paint
I cleaned the parts with soap and water and a scrub brush before the test.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks, my concern was cleaning rust from a bike that I want to keep the original paint. It's a beautiful tandem yellow between 1965 to 70. My blind uncle left it to me.
@@RJTheBikeGuy this is literally the video i have been waiting for... I can't thankyou enough for this! Unfortunately I have to push the envelope a bit.... If you could run the same test with a bike with either orange or red paint it would be the absolute all time best... reason being (2 fold) I have heard the certain red and orange paints have ferric oxide in them as part of the coloring (which is what rust is) and i myself have a classic coppertone (orangish) schwinn stingray that i would love to use some evaporust on but am afraid that it might damage the paint. A retest on red/orange paint will answer the question of whether or not this is a good course of action. Thanks again! Great Job!
Hey RJ, when you remove rust off a chrome fork, how would you seal the spots, so they don't get exposed again?
Rub them down with wax or something.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Alright thank you
Poland 🇵🇱👍
tez oglądam :)
@@jacekkostekpower150. Dobry jest magik 😎
najlepszy na jutubie
@@jacekkostekpower150 Dokładnie tak!!!
Are you still going to do the full frame rust removal video?
Yes.
So would this method be good to use on nuts and bolts?
Yes.
a wire wheel on your bench grinder or drill is far quicker, though.
@@johnpossum556 I have used that method well. Lot's of different ways. If you have a big batch, the Evapo-Rust would probably be easier and faster.
Hey RJ, concerning the vinegar: temperature is essential for the vinegar to work properly
I brought the stuff into the house to let them work at room temp.
RJ, do you ever test the Evaporust GEL? I like to know what’s the practical difference
I have not seen the gel before. I will have to try it.
RJ The Bike Guy I assume that the gel can facilitate the direct application at some specific point of the bike, without the need of immersion bath... maybe!
@@SergioMancini It may work better on the frames than my usual method.
I just read through reviews of the gel on Amazon, and it doesn't sound too good.
RJ The Bike Guy Ahh I saw now! Do not waste money/time for it ahahah
As I understand it, there are rust removers and rust converters. Not too sure which category each of these four fall into.
I believe Evapo-rust and Metal Rescue work by removing the oxygen atom, and leaving the iron atoms. I believe the acids work by removing the iron-oxide molecule.
I take back what i said about Metal Rescue, i think it was claimed you could reuse - reuse,
but once it turns black it virtually loses it's strength
Yes, it eventually wears out. Evapo-Rust also eventually turns black and is worn out. But in my tests Evapo-Rust has seemed to do a better job.
what would you do after using EvapoRust?
Paint it?
I will often spray it with clear coat. Some people will use nail polish.
Thanks! I'm restoring an old Koga Miyata and would never be able to do it without your videos.
Wondering if I could put evaporust in a spray bottle and spray onto my frame instead of having to dip my frame into a large bucket?
Not really. The metal needs to stay wet. Check this out: ruclips.net/video/bxy6hdUOrlc/видео.html
hmm somehow you and MonkeyShred release rust removal videos just a couple of hours apart .... coincidence....? :) nice video :)
Total coincidence. Thanks!
Definite coincidence 😂 nicely compared RJ. I’ve dunked a frame in Oxalic before and it worked well to remove the rust staining to the paint but thinking about it it did dull the colours slightly.
@@MonkeyShred The Claud Butler. I liked that video.
Hello, is it worth waiting for a video in which you show how to remove rust inside the tubes of the whole bike?
I know people are joking about cutting their frame up to do this, but do you have any suggestions for applying it to an intact frame? I'm restoring two bikes for my girls and I'm new to everything like this. I'm trying to think what would be big enough to lay a frame in to soak??? Or is there other "application" methods besides soaking?
Oh, my other thing. Although the Metal Rescue appeared to take off some of the color, was it a smoother transition from the bare metal to the paint that remained. I was just thinking that may actually save me time sanding!
Soak paper towels in Evapo-Rusts. Wrap the rusty spots with them, then wrap those with plastic wrap.
what is the ratio of evaporust you use for a full frame?
Undiluted.
@@RJTheBikeGuy so how many gallons do you use if you want to soak a whole fame in the stuff?
I knew evaporust would come out on the top.
I was like, "oh, no, you didn't cut up your bike." Now, you need super glue video.
The frame was rusty and damaged. I bought it for $5 just to cut it up for this video.
@@LasseGreiner I think "iconic" is a little overstated for this bike. It was not a high end Schwinn.
@@RJTheBikeGuy you are the judge ;-) It was a very bold color scheme for the time. Again, thanks for the test, and the "sacrifice" was worth it, especially as the color change is a concern when applying it only partially.
Would that work on my motorcycle frame ? The Evpo rust
If it's a steel frame. Yes.
RJ The Bike Guy would this work if I sprayed it on ? Cause it’s on my motorcycle frame
Really enjoy your videos RJ! I’ve seen the trick you do where you wrap the parts with towels soaked in the EvapoRust in your “how to remove seat post” vid when you wrapped the bars. Works great and thank you for the tips! Where do you find the Evapo Rust?
Thanks again!
Tim
I have done it I think in a couple of my vids, though I don't remember doing it in a seatpost vid. I did it on the handlebars here: ruclips.net/video/bxy6hdUOrlc/видео.html
I used krud kutter and omg is was so bad. I put the chain in there and it freaking devolved the chain into little bits and pieces. I do not recommend and it smelled so bad that I felt like I wanted to throw up. I couldn’t work in the garage for a few days.
If the chain gets super rusty, chuck it and buy a new chain. The insides get damaged as well. Second, try Evapo Rust. ruclips.net/video/1zXzFFXbuMw/видео.html
you didnt try citric acid
I tested two different acids, the oxalic and the vinegar.
@@RJTheBikeGuy in my experience citric acid works a lot better and faster than vinegar, especially if you make it a strong solution and use warm water, it's also cheap vs other options (from Asian supermarkets), doesn't smell bad and is easy to store as it's a powder
doesn't harm most stickers [decals] either
Coke and aluminum foil works great for light rust
I see this suggestion often. I have tested coke as a rust remover, and it didn't do anything. ruclips.net/video/DZVdkLWAurE/видео.html
So what does coke do here? Basically a lubricant? Maybe water would do as well? WD-40. Why coke? The crumpled foil is just like steel wool, except aluminum is softer than steel and less likely to scratch.
Try a citric acid solution.
Good idea.
Molasses works well if you have two weeks to spare.
Evapo-Rust works by the same process.
Hello
Hey.
This is the lost breaking bad episode.
LOL! I loved that show!
Brazing stuff - brass filler rod?
Probably something like that.
vinegar works better with baking soda
Baking soda neutralizes the acid, so I doubt it.
@@RJTheBikeGuy try it on something small...
Vinegar works good but you need to soak it for a week.
NO OA NO VINEGAR, EVAPO RUST & METAL RESCUE ARE THE ONES.
You cut up an '87 Schwinn Traveler with a little rust? RJ, you need to learn to paint, brother. Or become a therapist because I'm in need of one after witnessing that needless death.
I knew someone would comment. It also had some dents. It was in pretty bad shape. I bought it for $5 to do this video. I also did this video with it as well: ruclips.net/video/xRIFqasCOSg/видео.html
I have a 19 year old dented up REI frame you can paint. Only $40 and shipping. I take PayPal..
@@curtisdeanmusic Good luck with that.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I feel better now.
Cocacola works good 😪
Not for removing rust it doesn't.
ruclips.net/video/DZVdkLWAurE/видео.html
But you need to get like 200l of it to drown the entire frame... None of these is a good option
OSPHO @ sherwin-williams.
just get an aluminium bike frame so you can just save a load of money... ;) even dough, the vinegar did the worst but its the only one of these that is not heavy chemical stuff...its natural...
for the others just be careful where to dispose the dirty solution...
Evaporust is super safe to use, it doesn't work via acids