If you want to actually access the motors you'll have to pry the majority of the parts out of the front casing because there's a single plastic pin set in the veeeeery front that's irreversibly hot glued shut. (make sure to get all the screws out first tho, there's some hidden on the backside.) However, if you do it very carefully (it's a real pain to do so, easily took me 20 minutes+ of fiddling before I figured out how to access it), you can get all the parts in front of said pin out of the way (which includes the motors, but you won't be able to work comfortably with them if you just manage to barely get them out, so:) and then cut through the pin (I used a scalpel to do so, a tiny saw would have been better for the job, but whatever you got lying around will get the job done). This pin adds NOTHING to the the stability or structure of the Barricade, so, I assume its only purpose is to annoy you & that it's perfectly fine & safe to cut. Now if only I could find my multimeter so I could figure out whether the motors on mine are broken or not… Sigh.
If you want to actually access the motors you'll have to pry the majority of the parts out of the front casing because there's a single plastic pin set in the veeeeery front that's irreversibly hot glued shut. (make sure to get all the screws out first tho, there's some hidden on the backside.) However, if you do it very carefully (it's a real pain to do so, easily took me 20 minutes+ of fiddling before I figured out how to access it), you can get all the parts in front of said pin out of the way (which includes the motors, but you won't be able to work comfortably with them if you just manage to barely get them out, so:) and then cut through the pin (I used a scalpel to do so, a tiny saw would have been better for the job, but whatever you got lying around will get the job done). This pin adds NOTHING to the the stability or structure of the Barricade, so, I assume its only purpose is to annoy you & that it's perfectly fine & safe to cut. Now if only I could find my multimeter so I could figure out whether the motors on mine are broken or not… Sigh.
I also have this thing. Just bought for 7 cents, labeled broken. Casing is good, firing mech feels good, safety mech functioning, terminals are dead, missing one spring because of brutal corrotion and eats away the spring i think. Can i contact you personally through instagram or email maybe if i have questions?
This gun was a hand me down from my uncle, hadn't had the batteries changed since he last used it(God knows when) and its pretty much nothing but rust in the battery compartment
If you want to actually access the motors you'll have to pry the majority of the parts out of the front casing because there's a single plastic pin set in the veeeeery front that's irreversibly hot glued shut. (make sure to get all the screws out first tho, there's some hidden on the backside.) However, if you do it very carefully (it's a real pain to do so, easily took me 20 minutes+ of fiddling before I figured out how to access it), you can get all the parts in front of said pin out of the way (which includes the motors, but you won't be able to work comfortably with them if you just manage to barely get them out, so:) and then cut through the pin (I used a scalpel to do so, a tiny saw would have been better for the job, but whatever you got lying around will get the job done). This pin adds NOTHING to the the stability or structure of the Barricade, so, I assume its only purpose is to annoy you & that it's perfectly fine & safe to cut. Now if only I could find my multimeter so I could figure out whether the motors on mine are broken or not… Sigh.
7:18 is it safe to take out that capacitor and wire it directly
Cheers!
@@ChrisHorswill put the capacitor back in and it still won't run
EDIT: turns out it was a different contact needed sanding
How did he fix the dart pusher?
Hey I I bought a barricade and I just started using it, it did work but out of nowhere the top flywheel stopped spinning, can you help me please
If you want to actually access the motors you'll have to pry the majority of the parts out of the front casing because there's a single plastic pin set in the veeeeery front that's irreversibly hot glued shut. (make sure to get all the screws out first tho, there's some hidden on the backside.) However, if you do it very carefully (it's a real pain to do so, easily took me 20 minutes+ of fiddling before I figured out how to access it), you can get all the parts in front of said pin out of the way (which includes the motors, but you won't be able to work comfortably with them if you just manage to barely get them out, so:) and then cut through the pin (I used a scalpel to do so, a tiny saw would have been better for the job, but whatever you got lying around will get the job done). This pin adds NOTHING to the the stability or structure of the Barricade, so, I assume its only purpose is to annoy you & that it's perfectly fine & safe to cut. Now if only I could find my multimeter so I could figure out whether the motors on mine are broken or not… Sigh.
Yeah same here, if anyone knows how to fix it, pls tell me
I accidentally discovered my barricade again after 8 years,bought when i was 12 and it wont start lol, thanks for the video tho it worked
Yeah I never had time to repair mine until quarantine so now I am like why not.
I also have this thing. Just bought for 7 cents, labeled broken. Casing is good, firing mech feels good, safety mech functioning, terminals are dead, missing one spring because of brutal corrotion and eats away the spring i think. Can i contact you personally through instagram or email maybe if i have questions?
This gun was a hand me down from my uncle, hadn't had the batteries changed since he last used it(God knows when) and its pretty much nothing but rust in the battery compartment
Try cleaning out with Isopropyl alcohol.
Those rockers are like $130 now