The US spec bumpers are easily replaced with chrome but you should really consider dropping the ride height back to pre US spec levels to restore handling.
The 1977 came with front and rear roll bars which restored much of the handling. You're right in that the 1975 and 1976 MGB's didn't handle near as well as the earlier cars. That's why the 1977 to 1980 got the rear roll bar. I'm well aware that the 1975 to 1980 also sit up higher for legal reasons. They can be lowered but it's a lot of work and quite expensive. I hope you don't take offense, but right now, I think he should concentrate on getting all the bugs worked out and making the car safe and dependable. I have owned a 1968 and a 1977 MGB for many many years. I think my 1977 handles very well compared to my 1968. Plus, I'm not scraping the bottom when I go over a speed bump or come out of a steep driveway in my 1977. :-)
Rhian Taylor I don't think you can legally drop them in the US due to the lighting regulations that caused the ride height to be raised in the first place. That is worthy advice for the UK, but changing a rubber bumper car to chrome bumpers is far from an easy bolt-on job and is pretty expensive. Plus, the values and appreciation for the rubber bumper cars is coming up rapidly now so I'd suggest leaving it as it is and enjoying it for what it is. There are plenty of MG specialists around who can provide uprated springs and dampers built to modern standards that will really do a lot for the handling of these cars at the standard ride height...
It is not just a bolt on option, especially in the rear. They did change the body panels to fit the rubber baby buggie bumpers. Yes it can be bolted up, but it looks wrong with a big underpan gap. After 40 years, these are now classics so I'd not drop it or change bumpers. It will be classed as a mongrel and worth much less. Buy a 73/74 if you want the youngest chrome. Buy a 69 if you want the best MGB ever built.
@@gosportjamie The rubber bumper cars will never go up in value because they are not smog exempt in states like California. Waste of money. Should have bought a pre-75 MGB.
@@STho205 I took a vacation to the UK and visited the old MGB factory remains and talked to some MG engineers and former employees. They told me the best year is 1970 which is the year I have and I am inclined to agree. While it is the first year of British Leyland and some things got cheapened. It was the first year of the 5-main bearing engine which is the best engine.
Great trade. The Mustang will depreciate to nothing while the MGB only goes up with time. As a bonus you will turn heads as you drive by where a mustang is a common car.
Hi, There are two black relays each mounted on the right front fender. One controls the instruments (gas & temp) and blinkers and maybe the tachometer. If they're not working, give one of the relays a tap. If the engine starts but as soon as you release the key, the engine dies, the other relay is not working. I tried to see if you have a switch on top of the shifter but couldn't see. If you've got the switch, you've got overdrive, a very nice option. The convertible top looks like it was installed incorrectly. There should be a brace inside the top frame at the rear, but I don't think the top was fitted correctly to allow that brace to rotate back and snug up the top. But it will work, as it is. Reverse is engaged by hitting the shifter with a sideways motion toward your leg and then back. Clean the fuses and the fuse contacts in the fuse box. Make sure everything is clean. That, all by itself may solve some electrical issues. Make sure both cooling fans come on when the engine starts to run warm. If not, pull the plug out of the wiring harness at the thermostat and jumper it. The fans should go then. Go to University Motors and check out the many videos by John Twist. He has posted hundreds of MG videos. ruclips.net/user/Universitymotorsltd He is an MG wizard and will prove to be very helpful. I already told you about some places to find parts in a earlier post. I've got two MGB's a 1968 and a 1977 that I've owned for decades. They're very dependable if you take care of them and treat them right. Last year I drive my 1977 on a 938 mile round trip from Los Angeles to Reno, NV without a problem. Good luck, Tom
@@jasonjgr8580 With or without V8, I doubt that Ford would do anything better than what it is meant to do or its reputation stands for : "F***s On a Rainy Day" or may be: "Fix Or Repair Daily"! So no. You did well. Just bring MG back to life and enjoy a classy drive.
Smoking from the valve cover is blowby. You have an aftermarket weber carb on there and everyone who puts those on there never hooks up a crankcase vent. Without it, there is positive pressure in the crankcase which blows out any way it can (which is why you see smoke). The original Stromberg that was on the car had a port to handle the vent and burn any blowby gasses.
Hello from the UK. Looking forward to seeing some progress with this. I'd really want to know what is being hidden by all of that over spray. The B isn't known for its ability to resist rust.
Welcome to the wonderful world of MG ownership. I hope that you are enjoying your journey. I owned mine for over ten years and throughly enjoyed all of them, and yes I still miss mine! Simple to work on and a blast to drive, just wonderful.
Not warm, just not chilled, what you call beer, is larger, fizzy ...british beer is an ale, with a taste of hops barley etc,...if chilled, the tate is reduced.
I bought a '71 convertible, new. Loved the car, most fun thing to drive ever built. This one, yours, put it up on blocks and take 2-3 years for a rebuild. You won't regret it.
I think your cooling issue could well be the radiator itself. That looks like a factory original unit, so it could well be 42 years old, and they weren't really the greatest quality units, most of them here in the UK got replaced after 5-10 years, depending on use, as the original items failed or clogged up. The cooling system on your car all looks standard and original for an MGB from that period, they didn't have radiator caps on the radiator as they used a pressurised coolant expansion tank instead. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough under-bonnet height for the expansion tank to be the highest point of the cooling system, so the top of the thermostat housing became the highest point, hence the large and obvious plug there. Because of this, they are rather prone to air locks in the system, I believe the correct was to bleed the system is to fill it up, set the heater to full hot and then run it, with the plug on the thermostat housing slightly loose, until you get a steady stream of coolant coming from there. Then, tighten up the plug and, once the cooling system has cooled down again, top up the expansion tank to the correct coolant level, as it will have used some during the bleeding process. Of course, that only works if the cooling system is in good shape and isn't clogged anywhere. It's always a good idea to reverse flush the cooling system when it is drained down as they do tend to collect a lot of debris, especially if they've been run without antifreeze or corrosion inhibitor. These are old-fashioned iron block and head engines so internal corrosion is inevitable... Your smoking issue is likely to be due to a lack of breather system on the engine. Your car has an aftermarket carb and air filter arrangement on it, and a lot of these have no provision for the factory breather system which was a simple, eat its own fumes system that fed into the factory air filter assembly so the fumes would be drawn through the carb and burnt in the engine. When that gets removed a lot of owners find their cars tend to leak a bit of oil, so they block the leaky ports which means the only way the engine can breathe is by pushing the fumes out past the oil filler cap. These engines tend to breathe quite a lot, especially in hot climates, so it can be taken as a sign of a tired engine, which really isn't the case. If the engine isn't burning noticeable amounts of oil, i.e. producing blue/white smoke out of the exhaust, it's still quite fit. An easy option might be to reinstate the breather system and attach it to a catch can rather than trying to feed it back into the engine, unless there are obvious ports to allow it back into the intake system. Most racing MGBs, and there are a huge number around the world, run a catch can breather system so it's a well-proven system...
Very good reply, the only thing I can really add is get online and buy gaskets in bulk, they are dirt cheap and you will need them, hunting down the many gremlins that will show up in the MGB cooling system will mean removing the pump etc a few times, for the pennies a new gasket costs, it will save you headaches.
@@melindamanthey2757 I wrote that badly, let me clarify, while the cooling system on a B series isn't bad, due to age and use parts will fail. Most common is the thermostat and water pump. You can buy a complete gasket set for next to nothing, grab one and go through the engine replacing wear items, it will save you the headache of hunting them down one by one, parts are cheap and easily available. I would do the thermostat, water pump and radiator, total should be around $200.
Two things will kill an engine fastest - lack of proper cooling and inadequate lubrication. These are the first things to always check with a "new" used car.
I'm from the UK and those MG's are junk, £12k wow! But fair play for getting one, be nice to see one still being used. Very simple engine & box, very easy cars to work on & fix!
So are certain Jaguars, due to electrical issues, but people pay $$ for them. If someone knows how to troubleshoot and repair the shortcomings, they are profitable...or very cool and low production cars(as compared to a Ford or Chevy).
I’m proud to be English but let’s be honest we built a lot of rubbish cars. And I just don’t understand how the owner values that MG at 12k. In UK you would get a very clean tidy honest car for half that, 12k would get you a proper restored one! Still nice to see these old cars being enjoyed. I look at cars in USA that are seen as “junk” and would love to have them for myself.
Different market I guess. It's hard to know if the junk MGs are junk because they passed through the hands of neglectful owners. Theyre so easy to keep running well it has to be down to bad maintenance.
I'd have done the deal too. MG's are a blast to drive especially with the top down. I had a green '72 way back in the day...lots of memories in that car. 😏😛
The speedo issue isn't electrical. These have a mechanical speedo driven by a cable off the gearbox so issues with an erratic speedo could be due to the speedo head failing, not unknown but mostly seen on vehicles that have been off the road for a long time or which have done a lot of miles, or, more likely, the cable going bad. They can end up pulling gearbox oil up the cable if a seal in the gearbox fails, which can gum up the cable in its sheath, and can, on occasion, get to the point where it can pull gearbox oil all the way up into the speedo head, though that's pretty unusual and generally you'd know about it when you're driving as it starts dripping warm gearbox oil on your legs. The other interior electrical issues, well, these use Lucas electrics and, in the UK, Lucas are known as The Prince of Darkness, so that's all pretty standard really, and usually pretty straightforward to fix...
I've been into both MGs and Fox bodies for... longer than I care to admit. You made a really good trade. I'm jealous. Finish sorting out the MG, decide what mods you can afford, if any, and enjoy it. Take your time, and you can find any parts you need for the MG really cheap. I wish I hadn't sold my last MG (a maroon '77) a few years ago. I'm looking for a '60s MGB-GT now.
Bit of advice from a 70 year old Brit who has owned and built many "B"s over the years.If you want the car to be the best it can be and to increase it's value,stay away from the temptation to mod the car.People are more drawn to an original version. Remember,it's a classic not a soleless modern car.Fit original parts,you won't regret it.
You can get a Fox body Mustang anytime. The MG is more rare. You can get all the bugs out, rid it of overspray, detail it extensively, and, if desired, make mucho bucks. I think it's a good deal.
Looks like its had a long term leak on the top radiator tank going by he green death on it.....id suggest keeping an eye on that area for leaks....and fyi the outlet of the radiator should always be smaller to alow the radiator to retain fluid to cool it
I have a 78 mg midget same color but tan interior. Try not pumping it so much I did it once on mine and literally I had to push start it 2x cause it was so flooded.
MGB water pump has a plastic impeller on a steel shaft. Often the plastic splits, then the shaft turns but the impeller does not so no coolant circulates.
The MGB has a sealed system, you just add water via the header tank. You bleed the system by the plastic bung on top of the thermostat housing. Get a workshop manual.
I said it books at... this means in perfect condition. This should easily get 8k if the paint is fixed up in vt. I'll be listing for 6k after paint and bumpers are done
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 No way. Reality check. $6k will buy an RB in cherry condition. "Book" doesn't mean "perfect condition" There is the Kelley Blue Book and Edmunds. There are usually 3 levels of "book" having to do with condition. For real values and a much better rating system go to the HAGGERTY INSURANCE on the web and do some research on how to evaluate the condition of a car and you will see you have a 1-2 level car worth $0-1500 max. A Advise,, don't do the paint and the bumpers; off the car as is and take the loss you will be ahead of the game unless it is your intent to mislead a buyer, as you allowed yourself to be misled. The car is in very poor condition, any money spent is a waste. Get a chrome bumper car without rust and hopefully not owned, or worked o,n by fools as was this car .
@@ssquirrel88 The first Bs with SUs and limited smog crap were 98 HP . A carb alone will NOT increase HP. Particularly a Weber. It will increase fuel consumption and make more noise. You mention " racing upgrades " to include porting the head, increasing the bore, increasing the compression, hotter cam... those will all do much more even with the stock SUs than slamming on a hoplessly exotic and fiddly and expensive Weber.
@@olddogcitypound5859 A realistic price for a good runner. Rural Vermonter got ripped. Fact. Harsh yes, but true and encouraging him to spend money and time on this car is doing harm.
My friend, great video. I currently own that MG. Recognized it through all the small details. The overpainting, the miss matching interior, the loose choke wire, the orange engine wires and after market carburator. Just bought it off the guy you traded it with down in Rhode Island. Was giving me some trouble but after a few hours of tuning it's running like a beauty. Wonder if you have any info that might be pertinent to the car. Let me know. Really cool experience to see the video of the car
Very cool! Sometimes its tough to put in reverse, the trick is to slap the stick upwards and pretty firmly to the driver's side. It took me a while to get used to for sure. Also, I was having some trouble with the electronic fuel pump, not sure if the next owner took care of that or not. I had the carb fully rebuilt when I owned it and always used 93 octane. Was a great car and super rust free, I hope it treats you well.
It's a matter of personal taste, I don't mind the rubber bumper cars, they're much more '70s period correct than the chrome bumper cars that look very '60s...
@@jeffj4870 Like I said, it's a matter of personal taste. In the UK, so many later MGBs have been changed to chrome bumpers, often not very well, that it actually makes a pleasant change to see one in original form. And the later cars with the rubber bumpers and deck chair seat trim do have their own charm, they are so very '70s...
I wasn't trying to insult you dude good trade that was well worth it Mustangs are a dime a dozen the little mg smart they're hard to come by good trade easy to work on enjoy your car
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 Reality is not an insult. First these cars are not "hard to come by". 500, 000 built, not rare at all. What is rare is one that hasn't been screwed up by the typical American owner or mechanic.
You can change the rubber bumpers for the better looking chrome bumpers, i,m sure there are kits available. Around 70,s -- 80,s especially all the cars from UK had problems including electrical, it was a REALLY bad time for car industry there.
Yeah you should make sure your fans are coming on and you fill the radiator from over there to your left that little radiator looking cap that's where you put fluid in nowhere else there but definitely make sure your fans are coming on
No the car did NOT come with twin SUs.. that was earlier. This car have Strombergs.. smog carbs.. total junk and the only thing worse is a Webber (sp) without other engine mods foolish.
I own a 78' and yes they came from the factory with 1 carb (that's why they were so down on power) not two and the twin electric fans are from the factory. As for the Weber carb conversion a lot of people do that because the Stromberg or SU carb conversion is very expensive. I have a Weber on mine and it runs great.
If the car has a very low clutch bite point then you might well have hydraulic issues with the clutch system, or it could just be that the mechanical parts of the system are seriously out of adjustment, which can easily happen when someone who isn't familiar with the system undertakes work on them. Really everything should be adjusted back to original specs when the vehicle gets a new clutch, and if that's not done then you can easily get issues like this or even a situation where the clutch won't disengage even with the pedal on the floor...
So much to say! First. Nice job. A 76 MGB was my first car back in 92 and I still have it, love it, still runs! and I have a few more. Yours btw is a 77. A ton of changes in 77. Not a fan of those webers. Get on the mgexperience forum. Tons of knowledge there. Ask if you have any questions. I know MGs pretty well. Do some research before you put the top down otherwise you'll mess it up. John Twist vids here on youtube. Lots of MG Facebook pages but the forum guys give better advice. Tons of bad advice on Facebook. Have fun!
honestly like the mg more. It has more personality and is pretty unique. Unless you go to mg specific events it's kinda rare to find an mg at a car meet.
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 Pull the panels behind the front wheels, if there is rust it will be there and in the dog legs. look under the carpets as well.
They really aren't too bad once you learn the systems and how they work. 2 things...do NOT use regular DOT3 brake fluid in the brakes or the clutch system. Do NOT replace all the bullet connectors on the wiring with butt splices. The biggest problems with the wiring are grounds.
@@melindamanthey2757 the seals in British brake systems are natural rubber. Standard DOT 3 brake fluid makes the seals swell up and turn to goo in very short order. Use only DOT 4 synthetic or DOT 5 fluid silicone fluid in British cars.
My first car was a MGB. Now I have a Mustang Gt. And, I have been contemplating trading for an MGB again 😂 If you still have it, I would make sure the belts are tight because that was my main issue. The MGB isn’t really worth 12k. Love the video though!
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 Foolish, replace it.. or take the old one.. put it in a pan of cold water on the top of your stove ( clean the T stat first) then turn on the heat.. put a thermometer in the water for the heck of it.. When the temop gets top abotu 180 the t stat should open proving it is ok. Either way the T stat is cheap and should be replaced ans is critical fop proper operation.
Only the earlier MGBs had mechanical cooling fans bolted to the front of the water pump pulley. Later cars made the switch to electrical units. The later water pumps were made "shorter" because of this.
The electrical issues are overblown and many are the result of American mechanics that thought they knew what they were doing. It's British. It's different. Cleaning the bullet connectors and grounds helps a lot.
I have heard this many times over the years as well. It may have a lot to do with the level of care taken in maintaining the car over the years. I have had mine three years and have not had one electrical issue.
@@GRANDMASTER3D Finally, a response from someone who knows something about Brit cars and the oft repeated myths about them. The worst thing about an MG .. the owners and the fools , usually buddies and independent shops, who are totally clueless and attempt repairs and service.
I purchased an MGB brand new in 1976 (1977 model) in Charlotte, NC. The following is a short list of the things that were wrong or went wrong with the car from the day I signed the paper work till the day I sold it eight months later: 1) it leaked....The roof, around the doors, the trunk lid, and from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment. 2) Better brakes on a pedal car 3) Overheated....A lot and often 4) If there was an electrical item on the car that did not short out or fail I don't know what it was 5) Did I mention it leaked? The car HAD to be COMPLETLY covered AND parked in/under an enclosure even if only fog was in the weather forecast. 6) Once the MG dealership closed it's doors forever getting anyone to work on the car was expensive on a good day and good luck getting correct and functional parts. Other than that it was fun drive.....I used the proceeds from the sale to purchase a new Dodge cargo van (a 1977 model) that I half assed customized that NEVER failed me and was still in perfect working order when I traded it in for a pickup in 1986. I failed to mention that my '77 MGB was probably one shade darker blue than the one you purchased and had a saddle brown interior otherwise the two cars looked very, very, similar.
76/77 british workers didn’t give a s%#t especially Leyland my late father in law had a brand new V8 Rover in 77 they didn’t fit the shocks in the rear suspension!
MAN!, I JUST LOVE THE MGB. IT IS A DREAM TWO SEATER VINTAGE SPORTS CAR (I Own a 68 Model) BUT IT IS A SACRILEGE TO BEAR A RUBBER BUMPER. GOD FORGIVE. AH!
Nothing like driving a slow car fast, even better when fitted with the overdrive, the electromechanical overdrive is equivalent to today's dual clutch transmissions found on the 2009 Porsche and newer and now on the new Corvette c8. Nothing beats screaming into a corner and flicking the overdrive switch to downshift, without having to use the clutch. Except doing it in a Porsche PDK or a new Corvette C8, but who wants to spend that kind of money, when you can get a very similar experience in an MGB with an overdrive for a lot less?
Call me back, if you ever found anything (Even a 1/18th scale) of a Ford, that worths buying! AND never forget: "Friends won't let friends Drive Ford"! Period.
Oct 75 I bought a new 76 MGB. About a year later I had an engine fire. Took apx 6 months to have it fixed parts came from a slow boat from China. Lol. Then again another fire. The car was recalled the Cadillac converter would leak gas onto a cracked exhaust manifold. This car was a total piece of shit. Overheat, brake leaks, starter I cant even remember. I would leave it on the side of the road Parts were not available here back then. And no lemon laws. Worst car I ever owned.
I would suggest that you purge the cooling system with the car on level ground, heater temp knob open all the way and all leaks repaired. Your fans will not turn on if your coolant is not full.Check out this video. ruclips.net/video/2jfkb6zqtvU/видео.html
Sir, you are correct about temperature setting, but to properly purge a cooling system without a purge valve, the highest point of the cooling system needs to be raised, ie, the car up on ramps or something similar.
Interesting trade. Both parties are probably 100% convinced they got the better end of the deal.
I was thinking the same. The MG is probably worth around $5000, but of course in the end it's worth what someone will pay.
Come on, it's pretty obvious which is the most fun - the MG, by miles.
@@BigDuke6ixx When that British made piece of shit runs
@@redmr2na very simple to fix and modern components make the reliable
That's literally the best kinda trade isn't it?
My '77 has given me years and years if joy. So much so, I bought a '64, too. Wonderful little cars.
The US spec bumpers are easily replaced with chrome but you should really consider dropping the ride height back to pre US spec levels to restore handling.
The 1977 came with front and rear roll bars which restored much of the handling. You're right in that the 1975 and 1976 MGB's didn't handle near as well as the earlier cars. That's why the 1977 to 1980 got the rear roll bar. I'm well aware that the 1975 to 1980 also sit up higher for legal reasons. They can be lowered but it's a lot of work and quite expensive. I hope you don't take offense, but right now, I think he should concentrate on getting all the bugs worked out and making the car safe and dependable. I have owned a 1968 and a 1977 MGB for many many years. I think my 1977 handles very well compared to my 1968. Plus, I'm not scraping the bottom when I go over a speed bump or come out of a steep driveway in my 1977. :-)
Rhian Taylor I don't think you can legally drop them in the US due to the lighting regulations that caused the ride height to be raised in the first place. That is worthy advice for the UK, but changing a rubber bumper car to chrome bumpers is far from an easy bolt-on job and is pretty expensive. Plus, the values and appreciation for the rubber bumper cars is coming up rapidly now so I'd suggest leaving it as it is and enjoying it for what it is. There are plenty of MG specialists around who can provide uprated springs and dampers built to modern standards that will really do a lot for the handling of these cars at the standard ride height...
It is not just a bolt on option, especially in the rear. They did change the body panels to fit the rubber baby buggie bumpers. Yes it can be bolted up, but it looks wrong with a big underpan gap.
After 40 years, these are now classics so I'd not drop it or change bumpers. It will be classed as a mongrel and worth much less.
Buy a 73/74 if you want the youngest chrome. Buy a 69 if you want the best MGB ever built.
@@gosportjamie The rubber bumper cars will never go up in value because they are not smog exempt in states like California. Waste of money. Should have bought a pre-75 MGB.
@@STho205 I took a vacation to the UK and visited the old MGB factory remains and talked to some MG engineers and former employees. They told me the best year is 1970 which is the year I have and I am inclined to agree. While it is the first year of British Leyland and some things got cheapened. It was the first year of the 5-main bearing engine which is the best engine.
Great trade. The Mustang will depreciate to nothing while the MGB only goes up with time. As a bonus you will turn heads as you drive by where a mustang is a common car.
I had a 1972 MGB, bought new in
1972.... car would take corners like it was on rails, really fun car
to drive.
Hi,
There are two black relays each mounted on the right front fender. One controls the instruments (gas & temp) and blinkers and maybe the tachometer. If they're not working, give one of the relays a tap. If the engine starts but as soon as you release the key, the engine dies, the other relay is not working. I tried to see if you have a switch on top of the shifter but couldn't see. If you've got the switch, you've got overdrive, a very nice option. The convertible top looks like it was installed incorrectly. There should be a brace inside the top frame at the rear, but I don't think the top was fitted correctly to allow that brace to rotate back and snug up the top. But it will work, as it is. Reverse is engaged by hitting the shifter with a sideways motion toward your leg and then back. Clean the fuses and the fuse contacts in the fuse box. Make sure everything is clean. That, all by itself may solve some electrical issues. Make sure both cooling fans come on when the engine starts to run warm. If not, pull the plug out of the wiring harness at the thermostat and jumper it. The fans should go then. Go to University Motors and check out the many videos by John Twist. He has posted hundreds of MG videos. ruclips.net/user/Universitymotorsltd He is an MG wizard and will prove to be very helpful. I already told you about some places to find parts in a earlier post. I've got two MGB's a 1968 and a 1977 that I've owned for decades. They're very dependable if you take care of them and treat them right. Last year I drive my 1977 on a 938 mile round trip from Los Angeles to Reno, NV without a problem.
Good luck, Tom
thanks for all your help!
My first car (many, many years ago) was an MGB. Seeing another young guy with one brought back memories. Comparably simple machines. Have fun!
You got this beauty for your Junk (Oh Lord-Ford)!
I say if you can bring MG back to life, you have done one great deal.
Sam Sen i would of kept the mustang and put a v8 in it.
@@jasonjgr8580 With or without V8, I doubt that Ford would do anything better than what it is meant to do or its reputation stands for : "F***s On a Rainy Day" or may be: "Fix Or Repair Daily"! So no. You did well. Just bring MG back to life and enjoy a classy drive.
not a terrible trade, would go nice with the Jaaaaaag.
A Pageant Blue MGB roadster with rubber bumpers. A very, very '70s-correct car indeed, and it looks to be in pretty decent shape too...
Your radiator fans never kicked on and that could be part of the temperature problem
Smoking from the valve cover is blowby. You have an aftermarket weber carb on there and everyone who puts those on there never hooks up a crankcase vent. Without it, there is positive pressure in the crankcase which blows out any way it can (which is why you see smoke). The original Stromberg that was on the car had a port to handle the vent and burn any blowby gasses.
Hello from the UK. Looking forward to seeing some progress with this. I'd really want to know what is being hidden by all of that over spray. The B isn't known for its ability to resist rust.
You made a splendid trade, the MGB is cooler than a Mustang by multitudes.
Welcome to the wonderful world of MG ownership. I hope that you are enjoying your journey. I owned mine for over ten years and throughly enjoyed all of them, and yes I still miss mine! Simple to work on and a blast to drive, just wonderful.
Building a nice British fleet there.
Why do the British drink warm beer? Their refrigerators were made by Lucas.
that's pretty funny and I'm a Brit. Here's a question Why do Americans drink & pay for Lite beer? Water is free..
Did you know Lucas electric had a three way switch ? Settings were flicker, smolder and ignite.
Not warm, just not chilled, what you call beer, is larger, fizzy ...british beer is an ale, with a taste of hops barley etc,...if chilled, the tate is reduced.
Why do Americans drink cold beer? It stops them tasting it. M.
I bought a '71 convertible, new. Loved the car, most fun thing to drive ever built.
This one, yours, put it up on blocks and take 2-3 years for a rebuild. You won't regret it.
I think your cooling issue could well be the radiator itself. That looks like a factory original unit, so it could well be 42 years old, and they weren't really the greatest quality units, most of them here in the UK got replaced after 5-10 years, depending on use, as the original items failed or clogged up. The cooling system on your car all looks standard and original for an MGB from that period, they didn't have radiator caps on the radiator as they used a pressurised coolant expansion tank instead. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough under-bonnet height for the expansion tank to be the highest point of the cooling system, so the top of the thermostat housing became the highest point, hence the large and obvious plug there. Because of this, they are rather prone to air locks in the system, I believe the correct was to bleed the system is to fill it up, set the heater to full hot and then run it, with the plug on the thermostat housing slightly loose, until you get a steady stream of coolant coming from there. Then, tighten up the plug and, once the cooling system has cooled down again, top up the expansion tank to the correct coolant level, as it will have used some during the bleeding process. Of course, that only works if the cooling system is in good shape and isn't clogged anywhere. It's always a good idea to reverse flush the cooling system when it is drained down as they do tend to collect a lot of debris, especially if they've been run without antifreeze or corrosion inhibitor. These are old-fashioned iron block and head engines so internal corrosion is inevitable...
Your smoking issue is likely to be due to a lack of breather system on the engine. Your car has an aftermarket carb and air filter arrangement on it, and a lot of these have no provision for the factory breather system which was a simple, eat its own fumes system that fed into the factory air filter assembly so the fumes would be drawn through the carb and burnt in the engine. When that gets removed a lot of owners find their cars tend to leak a bit of oil, so they block the leaky ports which means the only way the engine can breathe is by pushing the fumes out past the oil filler cap. These engines tend to breathe quite a lot, especially in hot climates, so it can be taken as a sign of a tired engine, which really isn't the case. If the engine isn't burning noticeable amounts of oil, i.e. producing blue/white smoke out of the exhaust, it's still quite fit. An easy option might be to reinstate the breather system and attach it to a catch can rather than trying to feed it back into the engine, unless there are obvious ports to allow it back into the intake system. Most racing MGBs, and there are a huge number around the world, run a catch can breather system so it's a well-proven system...
Very good reply, the only thing I can really add is get online and buy gaskets in bulk, they are dirt cheap and you will need them, hunting down the many gremlins that will show up in the MGB cooling system will mean removing the pump etc a few times, for the pennies a new gasket costs, it will save you headaches.
@@lvthud Why would you have to remove the H20 pump "a few times" ?
@@melindamanthey2757 I wrote that badly, let me clarify, while the cooling system on a B series isn't bad, due to age and use parts will fail. Most common is the thermostat and water pump. You can buy a complete gasket set for next to nothing, grab one and go through the engine replacing wear items, it will save you the headache of hunting them down one by one, parts are cheap and easily available. I would do the thermostat, water pump and radiator, total should be around $200.
Two things will kill an engine fastest - lack of proper cooling and inadequate lubrication. These are the first things to always check with a "new" used car.
I'm from the UK and those MG's are junk, £12k wow!
But fair play for getting one, be nice to see one still being used. Very simple engine & box, very easy cars to work on & fix!
At least easy to work on
So are certain Jaguars, due to electrical issues, but people pay $$ for them. If someone knows how to troubleshoot and repair the shortcomings, they are profitable...or very cool and low production cars(as compared to a Ford or Chevy).
I’m proud to be English but let’s be honest we built a lot of rubbish cars. And I just don’t understand how the owner values that MG at 12k. In UK you would get a very clean tidy honest car for half that, 12k would get you a proper restored one! Still nice to see these old cars being enjoyed. I look at cars in USA that are seen as “junk” and would love to have them for myself.
That's around 7k sterling for rot free MG, that sounds about right.
Different market I guess. It's hard to know if the junk MGs are junk because they passed through the hands of neglectful owners. Theyre so easy to keep running well it has to be down to bad maintenance.
I have a white 1976 MGB with a hardtop. It’s a great car and it’s super easy to work on. Have fun with it!
I'd have done the deal too. MG's are a blast to drive especially with the top down. I had a green '72 way back in the day...lots of memories in that car. 😏😛
The speedo issue isn't electrical. These have a mechanical speedo driven by a cable off the gearbox so issues with an erratic speedo could be due to the speedo head failing, not unknown but mostly seen on vehicles that have been off the road for a long time or which have done a lot of miles, or, more likely, the cable going bad. They can end up pulling gearbox oil up the cable if a seal in the gearbox fails, which can gum up the cable in its sheath, and can, on occasion, get to the point where it can pull gearbox oil all the way up into the speedo head, though that's pretty unusual and generally you'd know about it when you're driving as it starts dripping warm gearbox oil on your legs. The other interior electrical issues, well, these use Lucas electrics and, in the UK, Lucas are known as The Prince of Darkness, so that's all pretty standard really, and usually pretty straightforward to fix...
I've been into both MGs and Fox bodies for... longer than I care to admit. You made a really good trade. I'm jealous. Finish sorting out the MG, decide what mods you can afford, if any, and enjoy it. Take your time, and you can find any parts you need for the MG really cheap. I wish I hadn't sold my last MG (a maroon '77) a few years ago. I'm looking for a '60s MGB-GT now.
Good luck in your search. I love my B and would never get rid of it. I think I may add an MGA for my next purchase.
Bit of advice from a 70 year old Brit who has owned and built many "B"s over the years.If you want the car to be the best it can be and to increase it's value,stay away from the temptation to mod the car.People are more drawn to an original version. Remember,it's a classic not a soleless modern car.Fit original parts,you won't regret it.
Nice video, seems strange an American trading in one of their large cars for one of our little British sports cars :o)
You can get a Fox body Mustang anytime. The MG is more rare. You can get all the bugs out, rid it of overspray, detail it extensively, and, if desired, make mucho bucks. I think it's a good deal.
for sure!
The MGB is not rare. There were over 500, 000 made and this car was one of the the worst years and it is in wretched condition.
Yes, '77 would have no cap on the radiator from the factory.
These are incredibly resilient cars. I had the twin to yours.
Looks like its had a long term leak on the top radiator tank going by he green death on it.....id suggest keeping an eye on that area for leaks....and fyi the outlet of the radiator should always be smaller to alow the radiator to retain fluid to cool it
Yep
I had a 69 MGB the color of your tassel when I was in school. I loved that car.
cool!
I noticed your coolant Trans went working check the relay switch or a fuse
I have a 78 mg midget same color but tan interior. Try not pumping it so much I did it once on mine and literally I had to push start it 2x cause it was so flooded.
Its not the car its the expirience you get with every new car good for you.
MGB water pump has a plastic impeller on a steel shaft. Often the plastic splits, then the shaft turns but the impeller does not so no coolant circulates.
The MGB has a sealed system, you just add water via the header tank. You bleed the system by the plastic bung on top of the thermostat housing. Get a workshop manual.
When you pull the choke on, turn it. It will keep it from springing closed
Not on that one, it is not a stock MG choke cable.
Sounds like you may need to adjust the valve lash, I think that’s the ticking you hear.
yeah its not too bad yet
These are solid lifter cars they do make some noise normally
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 It IS BAD..
A 1977 MGB rubber bumper
Isn't a $12k car.
On its best day it might be a $4 grand car.
62Hp and all...
I said it books at... this means in perfect condition. This should easily get 8k if the paint is fixed up in vt. I'll be listing for 6k after paint and bumpers are done
Rob Crissinger
I've got a 77 MGB one owner with 39000 original miles,runs great,needs some love but it can be yours for 2500.
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 No way. Reality check. $6k will buy an RB in cherry condition. "Book" doesn't mean "perfect condition"
There is the Kelley Blue Book and Edmunds.
There are usually 3 levels of "book" having to do with condition. For real values and a much better rating system go to the HAGGERTY INSURANCE on the web and do some research on how to evaluate the condition of a car and you will see you have a 1-2 level car worth $0-1500 max. A
Advise,, don't do the paint and the bumpers; off the car as is and take the loss you will be ahead of the game unless it is your intent to mislead a buyer, as you allowed yourself to be misled. The car is in very poor condition, any money spent is a waste. Get a chrome bumper car without rust and hopefully not owned, or worked o,n by fools as was this car .
@@ssquirrel88 The first Bs with SUs and limited smog crap were 98 HP . A carb alone will NOT increase HP. Particularly a Weber. It will increase fuel consumption and make more noise. You mention " racing upgrades " to include porting the head, increasing the bore, increasing the compression, hotter cam... those will all do much more even with the stock SUs than slamming on a hoplessly exotic and fiddly and expensive Weber.
@@olddogcitypound5859 A realistic price for a good runner. Rural Vermonter got ripped. Fact. Harsh yes, but true and encouraging him to spend money and time on this car is doing harm.
I AGREE...!
Reverse feels like it's where 2nd should be. First feels like it's where 3rd should be.
My friend, great video. I currently own that MG. Recognized it through all the small details. The overpainting, the miss matching interior, the loose choke wire, the orange engine wires and after market carburator. Just bought it off the guy you traded it with down in Rhode Island. Was giving me some trouble but after a few hours of tuning it's running like a beauty. Wonder if you have any info that might be pertinent to the car. Let me know. Really cool experience to see the video of the car
Very cool! Sometimes its tough to put in reverse, the trick is to slap the stick upwards and pretty firmly to the driver's side. It took me a while to get used to for sure. Also, I was having some trouble with the electronic fuel pump, not sure if the next owner took care of that or not. I had the carb fully rebuilt when I owned it and always used 93 octane. Was a great car and super rust free, I hope it treats you well.
That paint job is horrible. Looks good from 20 feet but you were right. Covered in overspray. On everything.
And easy to buff out.
yeah pretty bad
It's a shame that its an American rubbernose Mgb. The normal chrome grilled mgb's are much easier on the eyes in my opinion.
Agreed
It's a matter of personal taste, I don't mind the rubber bumper cars, they're much more '70s period correct than the chrome bumper cars that look very '60s...
@@gosportjamie no way😫
@@jeffj4870 Like I said, it's a matter of personal taste. In the UK, so many later MGBs have been changed to chrome bumpers, often not very well, that it actually makes a pleasant change to see one in original form. And the later cars with the rubber bumpers and deck chair seat trim do have their own charm, they are so very '70s...
I wasn't trying to insult you dude good trade that was well worth it Mustangs are a dime a dozen the little mg smart they're hard to come by good trade easy to work on enjoy your car
Don't worry I didnt think you were insulting me
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 Reality is not an insult. First these cars are not "hard to come by". 500, 000 built, not rare at all. What is rare is one that hasn't been screwed up by the typical American owner or mechanic.
You can change the rubber bumpers for the better looking chrome bumpers, i,m sure there are kits available. Around 70,s -- 80,s especially all the cars from UK had problems including electrical, it was a REALLY bad time for car industry there.
yeah i think the bumpers are ugly
Yeah you should make sure your fans are coming on and you fill the radiator from over there to your left that little radiator looking cap that's where you put fluid in nowhere else there but definitely make sure your fans are coming on
Just for your info the MGB came from the factory with twin SU carbs and a cooling fan on the crankshaft pulley, not the twin electric cooling fans.
No the car did NOT come with twin SUs.. that was earlier. This car have Strombergs.. smog carbs.. total junk and the only thing worse is a Webber (sp) without other engine mods foolish.
I own a 78' and yes they came from the factory with 1 carb (that's why they were so down on power) not two and the twin electric fans are from the factory. As for the Weber carb conversion a lot of people do that because the Stromberg or SU carb conversion is very expensive. I have a Weber on mine and it runs great.
The mgb came with twin SU carburetors
If the car has a very low clutch bite point then you might well have hydraulic issues with the clutch system, or it could just be that the mechanical parts of the system are seriously out of adjustment, which can easily happen when someone who isn't familiar with the system undertakes work on them. Really everything should be adjusted back to original specs when the vehicle gets a new clutch, and if that's not done then you can easily get issues like this or even a situation where the clutch won't disengage even with the pedal on the floor...
Considering thew condition of the rest of the car, it needs a clutch. I would bleed the clutch slave first.
I cannot stress enough how hard it is to find reverse lol
Whoa! Score!!! Maaco paint job.
So much to say! First. Nice job. A 76 MGB was my first car back in 92 and I still have it, love it, still runs! and I have a few more. Yours btw is a 77. A ton of changes in 77. Not a fan of those webers. Get on the mgexperience forum. Tons of knowledge there. Ask if you have any questions. I know MGs pretty well. Do some research before you put the top down otherwise you'll mess it up. John Twist vids here on youtube. Lots of MG Facebook pages but the forum guys give better advice. Tons of bad advice on Facebook. Have fun!
Thanks for the info!
Moss Motors & Victoria British will have all you need parts are easy to come by for these cars
I can still get many of the parts needed at the local auto parts store. What you can't get, you can get from the sources above as well as others.
My boyfriend traded his Harley for a 1979 MGB and he loves it
@B Brunson he realized that people are careless on the road. He wanted a little bit more security for the both of us.
@B Brunson No airbags.
I like you better and better. First the Jaguar XJ40 (like I have) and now an MGB like I have as well!
Good trade, seems very rust free.
The rust will be bind the panel behind the front wheels or in the dog legs, neither of which you can see without getting into it.
honestly like the mg more. It has more personality and is pretty unique. Unless you go to mg specific events it's kinda rare to find an mg at a car meet.
Check behind the rocker panels when they rust the car will start folding in half.
will do
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 Pull the panels behind the front wheels, if there is rust it will be there and in the dog legs.
look under the carpets as well.
If you have any questions on any repairs on the car let me know. I have restored and maintained classic British sports cars for 20+ years.
Thanks
@@matthewbucklin1391 yes 1000x times. I haven't had to do any maintenance on modern cars
They really aren't too bad once you learn the systems and how they work. 2 things...do NOT use regular DOT3 brake fluid in the brakes or the clutch system. Do NOT replace all the bullet connectors on the wiring with butt splices. The biggest problems with the wiring are grounds.
@@tonychiesa1823 Why no DOT 3 ?
@@melindamanthey2757 the seals in British brake systems are natural rubber. Standard DOT 3 brake fluid makes the seals swell up and turn to goo in very short order. Use only DOT 4 synthetic or DOT 5 fluid silicone fluid in British cars.
original carb on a UK MGB would be twin SU's, you should try to get them, they are still available
I may try
I agree. Much better that the weber and way better than the Zeineth.
Not ture.. this car originally had Strombergs.,SUs were earlier.. the carb that is on there is junk.
My first car was a MGB. Now I have a Mustang Gt. And, I have been contemplating trading for an MGB again 😂
If you still have it, I would make sure the belts are tight because that was my main issue.
The MGB isn’t really worth 12k.
Love the video though!
Looks like a decent example! *:D*
Did you replace the thermostat, or just remove the old one?
So far just removed
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 Foolish, replace it.. or take the old one.. put it in a pan of cold water on the top of your stove ( clean the T stat first) then turn on the heat.. put a thermometer in the water for the heck of it..
When the temop gets top abotu 180 the t stat should open proving it is ok. Either way the T stat is cheap and should be replaced ans is critical fop proper operation.
Do the cooling fans work?
yes
Damn it! Wish I knew you were in Maine, I’m from Freeport I could have come down to meet u
lol
Except for the Earl Scheib paint job (quick flip?) I like it. It ain't a muscle car but it should be fun.
thanks
um were is the cooling fan? should be on the water pump
no they are in front of the rad
Only the earlier MGBs had mechanical cooling fans bolted to the front of the water pump pulley. Later cars made the switch to electrical units. The later water pumps were made "shorter" because of this.
Macco paint job w/their overspray. Cheap single stage enamel paint job by Macco with their signature overspray on everything.
I saw that thing on Craigslist last night
cool!
what is the lenght of your trailer? looks similar to my 10 ft karavan - is this a 12 foot?
yep
Do a chrome bumper swap, you'll feel so much better
Prepare your electrical system testers, my dad had one of these and I remember it had a f*ck ton of gremlins
RV can easily fix r up!
yep I've been troubleshooting
The electrical issues are overblown and many are the result of American mechanics that thought they knew what they were doing. It's British. It's different. Cleaning the bullet connectors and grounds helps a lot.
I have heard this many times over the years as well. It may have a lot to do with the level of care taken in maintaining the car over the years. I have had mine three years and have not had one electrical issue.
@@GRANDMASTER3D Finally, a response from someone who knows something about Brit cars and the oft repeated myths about them. The worst thing about an MG .. the owners and the fools , usually buddies and independent shops, who are totally clueless and attempt repairs and service.
Hey you should remove the grills from the front lights
i kinda like them
Buying an old MG is like buying an epileptic puppy.
As a mustang owner good trade, I actually love these cars
You travel to Portland frequently? I live in the area, I have a 7th gen Civic I'm trying to sell that could be a quick flip if you're interested!
Looks like a decent example, but being British, I'd much prefer to own the Mustang :)
yea you have to know how to troubleshoot owning these
@@ARuralVermonterQqjmcb182 Old British cars can be real buggers in terms of reliability, but at least they are easy to troubleshoot and work on :)
@@shepshepherd Utter BS.
What hapen to the JAG??, you stop that project?
In progress
Great job!!
Does the cooling fan work?
yep
I purchased an MGB brand new in 1976 (1977 model) in Charlotte, NC. The following is a short list of the things that were wrong or went wrong with the car from the day I signed the paper work till the day I sold it eight months later:
1) it leaked....The roof, around the doors, the trunk lid, and from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment.
2) Better brakes on a pedal car
3) Overheated....A lot and often
4) If there was an electrical item on the car that did not short out or fail I don't know what it was
5) Did I mention it leaked? The car HAD to be COMPLETLY covered AND parked in/under an enclosure even if only fog was in the weather forecast.
6) Once the MG dealership closed it's doors forever getting anyone to work on the car was expensive on a good day and good luck getting correct and functional parts.
Other than that it was fun drive.....I used the proceeds from the sale to purchase a new Dodge cargo van (a 1977 model) that I half assed customized that NEVER failed me and was still in perfect working order when I traded it in for a pickup in 1986.
I failed to mention that my '77 MGB was probably one shade darker blue than the one you purchased and had a saddle brown interior otherwise the two cars looked very, very, similar.
Yikes
MGB had some of the best brakes of the period. The front discs were oversized for the weight of the car.
76/77 british workers didn’t give a s%#t especially Leyland my late father in law had a brand new V8 Rover in 77 they didn’t fit the shocks in the rear suspension!
LOL I traded my 92' vette for a 74'
Spitfire. Also a long trip Los angels to Phoenix and back 700+ miles in
17/ hrs
MAN!, I JUST LOVE THE MGB. IT IS A DREAM TWO SEATER VINTAGE SPORTS CAR (I Own a 68 Model) BUT IT IS A SACRILEGE TO BEAR A RUBBER BUMPER. GOD FORGIVE. AH!
No fan? I see no fans?
There are two electric fans with yellow blades directly behind the radiator. Those are original equipment fans.
@@THOMMGB They are directly in "front" of the radiator.
Other guy: "the clutch feels weak".
....
Gives car with no circulating coolant.
Haha very true
Should have kept the Mustang so that you can take the 302 and drop it in the MG. I actually like both cars tho.
Personal opinion, ditch that carb for an duel SU unit
Fighting carbs or DUAL SUs ?
MGB's had twin carbs from the factory.
No . First.. 2 SUs until the 70s.. Then Strombergs ( smog junk) then a single Stromberg.. reducing HP from the original 98 to the low 70s.
Nothing like driving a slow car fast, even better when fitted with the overdrive, the electromechanical overdrive is equivalent to today's dual clutch transmissions found on the 2009 Porsche and newer and now on the new Corvette c8. Nothing beats screaming into a corner and flicking the overdrive switch to downshift, without having to use the clutch. Except doing it in a Porsche PDK or a new Corvette C8, but who wants to spend that kind of money, when you can get a very similar experience in an MGB with an overdrive for a lot less?
Haha I have some wiring diagrams I can give you; you’ll need them
Hi idol verry astig car M.G.B sportcar..
Isn't a Fox body Mustang worth more than a MG.
Not the 4 cylinder.
Nope
Call me back, if you ever found anything (Even a 1/18th scale) of a Ford, that worths buying! AND never forget: "Friends won't let friends Drive Ford"! Period.
More powah baby.
Swap out the bumpers
My dad used to own this but yellow and didnt run
That’s the mall parking lot holy shit that feels weird
Oct 75 I bought a new 76 MGB. About a year later I had an engine fire. Took apx 6 months to have it fixed parts came from a slow boat from China. Lol. Then again another fire. The car was recalled the Cadillac converter would leak gas onto a cracked exhaust manifold. This car was a total piece of shit. Overheat, brake leaks, starter I cant even remember. I would leave it on the side of the road Parts were not available here back then. And no lemon laws. Worst car I ever owned.
good for you.
Um, fill the overflow...
I would suggest that you purge the cooling system with the car on level ground, heater temp knob open all the way and all leaks repaired. Your fans will not turn on if your coolant is not full.Check out this video.
ruclips.net/video/2jfkb6zqtvU/видео.html
Sir, you are correct about temperature setting, but to properly purge a cooling system without a purge valve, the highest point of the cooling system needs to be raised, ie, the car up on ramps or something similar.
Sweet
I would rather have a Triumph TR6 than an MG
I guess beggars can't be choosers
I have a 1980 TR6 with 86000 K I put on 4000 in the last 25 years.