I hope you guys enjoyed this video. If you want to learn even more, I hope you'll consider checking out my Amazon #1 Bestselling book, DIY Lithium Batteries, available in paperback and ebook formats. a.co/iDtWdPX
EbikeSchool.com who showed you how to cross your 7's like that? my german teacher showed us in class, did you go there or see it somewhere else? I have one leg, I am in a wheel chair. did you do a wheelchair video? we mean, how to make a regular wheelchair electric? if not could you? that way we could copy it, I was a machinist until the leg came off. Col videos so far!!
Amps and Amp hours (A vs Ah) are two different things. The first is more equivalent to power and the second is more equivalent to range. This battery can output 30A, so yes it would be enough.
Clever way to respond to what is I'm sure a huge influx of people screaming at you "DON'T SOLDER ON 18650 TERMINALS!" Keeping the heat spread should help. I'll add my own 2 pence and say you should (probably) alternate soldering joints until you're done. Solder one end of the pack, and then the other end, then back. People who work on body panels for cars do this to avoid warpage of panels and to keep from blowing through the metal. Tack weld one area, move no less than 4 inches, tack, move, tack move. What you end up with is a panel that is warm, but not burning hot in any one area. I can see the same principal applied to these packs.
Nice job. Watched a few battery vids by others and cringed when giant threatening globs of solder were melted and slapped on top where they appeared they could easily short out individual cells, and wires were moved about before the solder had had a chance to set up. I like the nickel ribbon application using a spot welder to make small battery packs and use the ribbon to disburse heat and isolate the solder from the battery. Makes for an efficient assembly of larger configurations later. Also a big plus, a neat professional looking final package. We can live with soldering whole strips of pre-welded batteries. With solder alone I'm guessing there's an increased risk of creating cold solder joints. Cold solder joints mean a mechanical joint formed but electrically it could very well be anything from a high resistance connection to an open circuit or, as you pointed out, resultant heat damage.Was the finished product charged and tested for load balancing before you shrinkwrapped it? Do you not recommend shipping pre-charged batteries? What charger and display do you recommend using or including with a package sale? What brands and configurations in battery chemistry have you tried? Right now LG and Panasonic seem to be the top brand favorites for all standards of measurement. Sorry about all the questions. There's a lot to the learning curve and it's going to be big business down the road. Your video was extremely helpful. Thanks for this. I will def check out your other videos.
Hey Micah, really cool DIY battery kit... super easy and very quick to put together!!! Perfect for people who are just making one of few packs and don't want to spend all that money buying a spot welder!! AWESOME work... I just bought your book from Amazon as well. I got the printed version =] So much POWEEEEEEEEEEERRRR... haha
This definitely puts in to context why already-made batteries are so damn expensive. Especially quality ones. I wish I had the patience or confidence to do something like this.
got one and want to say a big Thanks! for making these kits available with great instructions . I am not afraid to try and build it my self, but since i am a complete newbie , this kit with pre-spotwelded good quality cells with everything included to make it ,including video instructions was Perfect! saved me a bunch of money, time and able me to make one in the shape i desired , keep it up man!
so why lie in the title? also generally 18650 batteries are about 2.5 A-H and u have 6 in parallel so that makes it about 15 A-H and you called it 20 A-H.. for 20 A-H they all have to be 3.3 A-H. so now is that also a lie? you have 13 batteries in series so that makes it 48V which is what you called it. is the DIY your sales outlet?
+John Conrad - Relax, they are Panasonic 18650B cells and so they are 3.4 AH each, meaning the total pack capacity is 20.4 AH. The title isn't a lie - you don't need a spot welder to build this battery pack.
Amazing - nice to see you up and selling your kit - I got really excited and headed straight over to the website, shame, I live in the UK, its a good job I don't need a battery just yet however I foresee the need in the future as I think my hub motor will out last my battery and at around 600 USD for a quality made one (or so they say) I am looking at other options! Keep up the good work
I guess in serie it would make a 96v20ah battery but im not sure. Im new to this. I thought series is dubbling the volts and parralel is doublin the Ah
You are a big help I am struggling with an Alibaba.com battery. Ever thought about a q and a video? I was sold Sanyo batteries but now I’m told I have “generic famous cell”. I don’t know what they means but performance is incredibly low output. What to do???
Good evening, very nice and instructive video, thanks. , I have a question, can i use a 16s bms on a 15 row battery and just leave one connection blank, or is that not going to work out?
Shame? Shame is when your bike bursts into flames taking your house with it because of a short.... facts do not give a damn about feelings when it comes to house fires
Hey Mike i just received my batteries , I checked voltage all batteries from 3.45v to 3.50, my question is should I fully charge them or i can start putting it together?
I was hoping you could help me out, I was trying to make a battery pack but I am having trouble finding a seller on ebay that wasn't trying to rip me off. can you post a link to where I can find these specific batteries in your video?
Great video, thanks! ... But I'm confused about something. Why so many strips? Wouldn't one strip connect 2 rows because everything is already touching each other?
Disclaimer: I'm just guessing...know very little about the world of DIY battery making. That said, I wondered the same. My guess is that the thin strips of nickel might overheat if there were only a couple. Maybe dispersing the energy evenly and with greater surface area might just be better craftsmanship of that kooky DIY'd battery, dramatically reducing the risk of a strip overheating and melting. And I've only watched the vid once, but if there was only one or two connection points and one breaks, the remaining single connection might then have all the current running through it, causing it to melt in short order, resulting in catastrophic failure of the whole batt. I'm undecided as of the moment whether I'll DIY it or buy a premade. But one thing I'm not undecided on is my confidence that a battery failure as the result of going for a good *long* ride on my 48V 1,600W Uberscoot would likely produce a situation whereby there's precisely ZERO scootage yielded after the battery is toast, manifesting the consequence of walking the 80-lb Uberlug a considerable distance back home. I believe they weigh 117 lbs with the lead acid batteries. I'm guessing (again) that a lithium batt weighs 40-50% of the guesstimated OEM 50-lb battery bag. Conversely, I like the idea of a battery whose energy flow between cells is widely distributed, keeping cool and thus keeping its lifespan and health as a rechargeable battery nice and high and long.
I’m thinking about building one. My only concern is about how safe doing this would be. I don’t want the thing exploding between my legs or burning my house to the ground while in the power outlet recharging.
Hi Micah, what kind of tin do you use to weld the nickel tape? 60Sn/40Pb? What combo is the best for this job? Good and clean work you made! Congrats and greetings from Spain.
Do you sell the battery pack already assemble, or just the kit? I don’t have the tools to put it together, and even if i buy them it would be for a one time use.
If they come from Maker Battery, then they should all be the same. But if you have cells that aren't the same voltage, you shouldn't use them in parallel. Either charge/discharge them until they match the others, or find other cells. Putting two cells in parallel that have drastically different voltages can be dangerous, as the higher voltage cell will try to rapidly charge the lower voltage cell.
@@EbikeSchool Actually same voltage doesn't matter, unless they're "fully charged" what matters is the internal resistance which can also be tested. You can have a half dead battery and a fully charged battery that are the same voltage (3.7). That would mean your "fully charged" battery is garbage and your "half dead" battery is not fully charged which would be around 4.18 - 4.20 volts in a healthy battery. Comparing voltages after fully charged and sat for a few hours, you should see them around 4.17 volts. both batteries being around this means they're probably decently healthy. Though it still is irrelevant to whether they should be used in parallel or not. That's what internal resistance is for and why it's important
אם אני מבין נכון, אז לפי מראה השקע ברקע, זה נראה שצולם בישראל, ומן הסתם על ידי ישראלי הקורא עברית, לכן ארשה לעצמי להגיב בעברית... עבודה יפה מאוד והסברים ברורים - כל הכבוד על המיזם הייחודי, ושתהיה לך הצלחה גם במיזמים העתידיים שלך!
what about charging? do all the batteries charge the same amount? I thought you had to have some kind of electronic board so they all get charged the same? thanks
Hey, a question... these kits (and others) don’t accommodate any fuses between cells. Other videos on here have quite complex bus bar / fuse configurations (often soldered directly to the cell cap). Are such inter-cell fuses important / advisable / unnecessary / definitely overkill..?
The 6 pack module looks like prewelded, positives welded together and negatives together. So each cell voltage must exactly or precisely the same, otherwise the cells with higher voltage will charge the lower ones. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you.
One question. How do you locate and replace a bad battery if it goes rogue or reverses polarity or something? I’m not sure the what the chances are of that occurring, but isn’t it beneficial to be able to service the batteries? That’s one major advantage I see in your modular cell building kits.
What would it cost in materials to build a 30a 48v battery for my scooter? Do you do custom builds? This for my scooter, they charge $400 for this battery which seems way too much.
I used to ebike to work, but that was with a sharkpack. I could just unlock it and take it with me. If I make a big pack of my own, or a triangle pack. Is there a way to quickly take it with me. I want to minimize opportunity for theft. Thanks.
Great video. Question, my battery is 48v 20ah. My controller is 48v 20ah. Manufacturer upgrade from 20ah b/c none in stock. Will this combo work? Heard it could damage battery. I use PAS too when riding. Hope you can help. /Bklyn👑
The best BMS that's in the market now is the one, that I'm using is SKYRC MODEL B6AC+ ver2.0. It's a Professional Balance Charger/ Discharger. It has mains input as well as 12V DC. It has built in Battery meter, Battery Internal resistance Meter, re-Peak Module for NiMH, NiCd type batteries, Terminal Voltage Control, Computer input control and IOS wiFi control through WiFi module. I am extremely satisfied with this Balance Charger.
I forgot to add that the SKYRC BMS comes in BLACK PAINT WITH RED, BLUE, YELLOW and GREEN tactile touch pads. This device charges, Li-Ion, Li-Polymer, Lithium, Ferro-Phosphate, NiMH, NiCd and PB batteries. Buy from an authorized dealer to avoid cheap clones. Cheers.
A BMS is a Battery Management System, a component added to a battery to monitor the status of individual cells. The BMS keeps the battery healthy, theoretically. For most of us, the B6AC is not powerful enough to balance charge our batteries. The B6AC can only handle 6 batteries in series, and eBike batteries have at least 10, and often 14 cells in series. You can break a 14S battery into 3 smaller batteries for charging, but that takes 3X longer.
B6AC is a battery charger, NOT an on-board BMS such as is used here. These battery-packs are intended for building electrically assisted bicycles needing lots of voltage and charge capacity. The B6AC is a great charger and diagnosis tools for individual 18650 cells or small battery-packs such as for radio controlled toys and drones. I am about to buy one myself, but it is not a BMS for this kind of application or purpouse.
Indeed, I checked the website and the kit, and it does not say. The only information given is: "30A continuous balancing Battery Management System (BMS) with wires already presoldered XT-90 discharge connectors with 50 cm 12 AWG silicone wires presoldered" (Phew, they need to learn punctuation!)
Let start off saying I love your videos! Very informative, Clear and to the point, One of the best video editing and quality. Now you had mentioned you build battery packs for customers. What is your business web site?
I hope you guys enjoyed this video. If you want to learn even more, I hope you'll consider checking out my Amazon #1 Bestselling book, DIY Lithium Batteries, available in paperback and ebook formats. a.co/iDtWdPX
EbikeSchool.com who showed you how to cross your 7's like that? my german teacher showed us in class, did you go there or see it somewhere else? I have one leg, I am in a wheel chair. did you do a wheelchair video? we mean, how to make a regular wheelchair electric? if not could you? that way we could copy it, I was a machinist until the leg came off. Col videos so far!!
hi man! you have 6 pieces in a parallel.!! а это 17100 mah
They are 3400 mAh each, so its 20,400 mAh total
EbikeSchool.com hey, the motor I want to use pulls 20.83 amps, would this 20 amp be enough since the difference is so small?
Amps and Amp hours (A vs Ah) are two different things. The first is more equivalent to power and the second is more equivalent to range. This battery can output 30A, so yes it would be enough.
Dude you Glossed over so many IMPORTANT details!
GREAT video. Excellent technique and final result. Thanks for providing a source of materials for avid DIY people like me!
for PEOPLE LIKE YOU, WE CAN EXPECT A BETTER WORLD. THANK YOU MICAH!!!
Clever way to respond to what is I'm sure a huge influx of people screaming at you "DON'T SOLDER ON 18650 TERMINALS!" Keeping the heat spread should help. I'll add my own 2 pence and say you should (probably) alternate soldering joints until you're done. Solder one end of the pack, and then the other end, then back. People who work on body panels for cars do this to avoid warpage of panels and to keep from blowing through the metal. Tack weld one area, move no less than 4 inches, tack, move, tack move. What you end up with is a panel that is warm, but not burning hot in any one area. I can see the same principal applied to these packs.
I'm sorry maybe I missed something. These packs look spot welded. Do you get the cell packs pre spot welded there for the title?
He sells the rows of cells already spot welded.
Thanks for convincing me to get a spot welder.....
LOLOL best comment
@@anthonyfortier8765 yeah this is all things you should not do lol
Nice job. Watched a few battery vids by others and cringed when giant threatening globs of solder were melted and slapped on top where they appeared they could easily short out individual cells, and wires were moved about before the solder had had a chance to set up. I like the nickel ribbon application using a spot welder to make small battery packs and use the ribbon to disburse heat and isolate the solder from the battery. Makes for an efficient assembly of larger configurations later. Also a big plus, a neat professional looking final package. We can live with soldering whole strips of pre-welded batteries.
With solder alone I'm guessing there's an increased risk of creating cold solder joints. Cold solder joints mean a mechanical joint formed but electrically it could very well be anything from a high resistance connection to an open circuit or, as you pointed out, resultant heat damage.Was the finished product charged and tested for load balancing before you shrinkwrapped it? Do you not recommend shipping pre-charged batteries? What charger and display do you recommend using or including with a package sale? What brands and configurations in battery chemistry have you tried? Right now LG and Panasonic seem to be the top brand favorites for all standards of measurement. Sorry about all the questions. There's a lot to the learning curve and it's going to be big business down the road. Your video was extremely helpful. Thanks for this. I will def check out your other videos.
Hey Micah,
really cool DIY battery kit... super easy and very quick to put together!!! Perfect for people who are just making one of few packs and don't want to spend all that money buying a spot welder!!
AWESOME work... I just bought your book from Amazon as well. I got the printed version =]
So much POWEEEEEEEEEEERRRR... haha
Morrre power bruno!!
Thats a cool looking pack. I think you are very good at spot welding. Your videos are pretty informative
Great videos and impeccable quality result!
Thanks again, I always back here to have sure im doing it right.
Good one Micah, what about using copper strip pieces with the correct current rating?
Hi What BMS did you use for this 48 v 20 ah battery ?
This definitely puts in to context why already-made batteries are so damn expensive. Especially quality ones. I wish I had the patience or confidence to do something like this.
really great demo., beautifully built battery! I'm wondering whats the cost diy vs retail pricing?
got one and want to say a big Thanks! for making these kits available with great instructions . I am not afraid to try and build it my self, but since i am a complete newbie , this kit with pre-spotwelded good quality cells with everything included to make it ,including video instructions was Perfect! saved me a bunch of money, time and able me to make one in the shape i desired , keep it up man!
Did the strips come ready welded, as the video says "without a spot welder"
Yes
this guy is a hack.
so why lie in the title? also generally 18650 batteries are about 2.5 A-H and u have 6 in parallel so that makes it about 15 A-H and you called it 20 A-H.. for 20 A-H they all have to be 3.3 A-H. so now is that also a lie? you have 13 batteries in series so that makes it 48V which is what you called it. is the DIY your sales outlet?
+John Conrad - Relax, they are Panasonic 18650B cells and so they are 3.4 AH each, meaning the total pack capacity is 20.4 AH. The title isn't a lie - you don't need a spot welder to build this battery pack.
@conrad: I guess you have other problems, call a doctor
Amazing - nice to see you up and selling your kit - I got really excited and headed straight over to the website, shame, I live in the UK, its a good job I don't need a battery just yet however I foresee the need in the future as I think my hub motor will out last my battery and at around 600 USD for a quality made one (or so they say) I am looking at other options! Keep up the good work
Ok that was very cool!!! Fine job. I have to get your books
Would two of these same packs in series make a 96v 40ah battery ? Also mind doing a video on two of these in series or two packs in series in general
I guess in serie it would make a 96v20ah battery but im not sure. Im new to this. I thought series is dubbling the volts and parralel is doublin the Ah
@@jewitdawel1877 yeah you are right. You will need 4 times
You are a big help I am struggling with an Alibaba.com battery. Ever thought about a q and a video? I was sold Sanyo batteries but now I’m told I have “generic famous cell”. I don’t know what they means but performance is incredibly low output.
What to do???
Thanks for the video. How can I charge it without a 48v charger?
Dude! I'LL just let you build the batteries. I am not tech savvy I guess. Great presentation. Thank you.
Good evening, very nice and instructive video, thanks. , I have a question, can i use a 16s bms on a 15 row battery and just leave one connection blank, or is that not going to work out?
What is wrong with all the people posting hateful comments? Micah is trying to help the DIY community and this is how you react? Shame on you...
It's the internet. More specifically, it's the RUclips comment section. View it like a cesspool. It's mostly shit.
Can you make a tutorial for 48v 20ah battery pack triangular shape?
Shame? Shame is when your bike bursts into flames taking your house with it because of a short.... facts do not give a damn about feelings when it comes to house fires
yup unhappy losers like @Samuel Spacey are what make places like youtube a cesspool. Pessimistic losers
fidelvc perhaps you should make a comment not a reply to a comment for you questions that are legitimate.js trying to help
you have video of a step by step construction of a 20s14p battery with bms assembly?
Hello do you have a website that You sell batteries that you’ve built? Or is it only DIY packs? Thanks Lee
Hey Mike i just received my batteries , I checked voltage all batteries from 3.45v to 3.50, my question is should I fully charge them or i can start putting it together?
Can i make it the same way just with 5 batteries each cell instead 6?
I was hoping you could help me out, I was trying to make a battery pack but I am having trouble finding a seller on ebay that wasn't trying to rip me off. can you post a link to where I can find these specific batteries in your video?
Great video, thanks! ... But I'm confused about something. Why so many strips? Wouldn't one strip connect 2 rows because everything is already touching each other?
Disclaimer: I'm just guessing...know very little about the world of DIY battery making. That said, I wondered the same. My guess is that the thin strips of nickel might overheat if there were only a couple. Maybe dispersing the energy evenly and with greater surface area might just be better craftsmanship of that kooky DIY'd battery, dramatically reducing the risk of a strip overheating and melting. And I've only watched the vid once, but if there was only one or two connection points and one breaks, the remaining single connection might then have all the current running through it, causing it to melt in short order, resulting in catastrophic failure of the whole batt.
I'm undecided as of the moment whether I'll DIY it or buy a premade. But one thing I'm not undecided on is my confidence that a battery failure as the result of going for a good *long* ride on my 48V 1,600W Uberscoot would likely produce a situation whereby there's precisely ZERO scootage yielded after the battery is toast, manifesting the consequence of walking the 80-lb Uberlug a considerable distance back home. I believe they weigh 117 lbs with the lead acid batteries. I'm guessing (again) that a lithium batt weighs 40-50% of the guesstimated OEM 50-lb battery bag.
Conversely, I like the idea of a battery whose energy flow between cells is widely distributed, keeping cool and thus keeping its lifespan and health as a rechargeable battery nice and high and long.
Great video tutorial! Have you built one using LiFePo4/32650 batteries for 48v/20Ah?
Very interested. I have 3000 miles on my Aventon Aventure. Do you have a kit for that?
Excellent video bro may even check out your website . How do you calculate how many feels per pack like how many series and how many parrelle
Nice kit, but any chance you could sell a kit that includes all BUT the batteries?
on another video you suggest NOT to solder a 18650 battery but you are soldering in the video ?
Another great video Micah..what BMS did you use in this project?
You used 3400mah batteries, can u guide me how can i make it with 9800mah batteries? Same 48v and 20ah battery im intended to built
Can i see your 9800mah battery?
I’m thinking about building one. My only concern is about how safe doing this would be. I don’t want the thing exploding between my legs or burning my house to the ground while in the power outlet recharging.
I checked out the prices for battery kits at DIY. I can buy a complete battery for half the price of a kit?
I have an electric bicycle with a 250 watt 36 volt motor with a 36 volt and 10 amp battery. Can I switch the battery to 36 volts and 15 amps ..?
What a freaking fantastically fun idea🎉😂❤
Mike, I have 3 52v battery pack that is assembled but not sealed. How can I make it into 2 72v battery without disassembling them?
So, you don't recommend solding direct to the battery?
What battery size? Lithium iron or Lithium ion? Not enough information in the video
You need to explain what side is the positive and negative are going to be soldered.
both your 36v and 48v kits are out of stock..will you be geting more ? when?...i liked the video very informational...
Love it... okay how many miles it can provide.
Hi Micah,
what kind of tin do you use to weld the nickel tape? 60Sn/40Pb? What combo is the best for this job?
Good and clean work you made!
Congrats and greetings from Spain.
Those batteries are spot welded 6 or 8 in low to biggin wirh?
What BMS did u you use?can i have a link where i can buy it?
Do you sell the battery pack already assemble, or just the kit? I don’t have the tools to put it together, and even if i buy them it would be for a one time use.
why are your battery kits so expensive?
I was just wondering about your earlier comment. You said measure all the packs to check they have the same voltage. What do you do if they don't?
If they come from Maker Battery, then they should all be the same. But if you have cells that aren't the same voltage, you shouldn't use them in parallel. Either charge/discharge them until they match the others, or find other cells. Putting two cells in parallel that have drastically different voltages can be dangerous, as the higher voltage cell will try to rapidly charge the lower voltage cell.
This is the most important question in the entire thread.
Before soldering or spotwelding any packs or cells it is always good to use a load to equal the voltage of the cells or packs of cells.
@@EbikeSchool Actually same voltage doesn't matter, unless they're "fully charged" what matters is the internal resistance which can also be tested. You can have a half dead battery and a fully charged battery that are the same voltage (3.7). That would mean your "fully charged" battery is garbage and your "half dead" battery is not fully charged which would be around 4.18 - 4.20 volts in a healthy battery. Comparing voltages after fully charged and sat for a few hours, you should see them around 4.17 volts. both batteries being around this means they're probably decently healthy. Though it still is irrelevant to whether they should be used in parallel or not. That's what internal resistance is for and why it's important
?? A spot welder was used on the initial nickle strips??
Micah, is it safe to hot glue cells together like that? Should I get cell holders instead if I'm concerned about safety?
Is bms required to be part of the circuit sir or its optional?
how did you get 20 ah out of 24 x 18650 cells ?
alex iva I think there were 78 cells right?
Very helpful. But is there any budget friendly 18650 batteries. Please 🥺 help. I want to make my own battery too.
you guys welded the first strips? Why not weld these strips too? Save time and make sure you have a better connection.
אם אני מבין נכון, אז לפי מראה השקע ברקע, זה נראה שצולם בישראל, ומן הסתם על ידי ישראלי הקורא עברית, לכן ארשה לעצמי להגיב בעברית... עבודה יפה מאוד והסברים ברורים - כל הכבוד על המיזם הייחודי, ושתהיה לך הצלחה גם במיזמים העתידיים שלך!
Fuck off
How many kilometers running this method battery
is 78 pieces enough to get 48 volt and 20 Ah??????
Yes possible. That's exactly what he did in this video 13s6p. 13 times 6 =78
Size of finished battery? I have limited space.
How do I choose the right BMS? Thank you
can I use Copper sheet rather than nickel sheet?
What are the assembled dimensions of your 36v kit?
is there somehwere i can buy just that black padding material you used?
Can i ask this simple question how much is the life cycle of this battery pack
Have any of these DIY batteries made with these kits caught fire?
How did you know that is 2Oah? Not 12ah or 30ah or what else..
Is this cheaper than buying one?
I can’t find where to buy the batteries on that site and for how many I need to get for 36 V 1000 W pocket bike
what about charging? do all the batteries charge the same amount? I thought you had to have some kind of electronic board so they all get charged the same? thanks
How come there is so little fusing with ebike batteries? Too much work?
Hi bro.. thank you so much for uploading this video... I will be building my 18650 battery pack soon... god bless!
nice video, but as a maker of d.i.y. battery kits could you make a plastic battery holder where just about anyone could construct a battery
Fu ckh you
Exactly!
Hey, a question... these kits (and others) don’t accommodate any fuses between cells. Other videos on here have quite complex bus bar / fuse configurations (often soldered directly to the cell cap).
Are such inter-cell fuses important / advisable / unnecessary / definitely overkill..?
What BMS did you use ?
The 6 pack module looks like prewelded, positives welded together and negatives together. So each cell voltage must exactly or precisely the same, otherwise the cells with higher voltage will charge the lower ones. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you.
Does it matter if using only new high quality cells? I understand if using getting cells from random laptop batterys...
One question. How do you locate and replace a bad battery if it goes rogue or reverses polarity or something? I’m not sure the what the chances are of that occurring, but isn’t it beneficial to be able to service the batteries? That’s one major advantage I see in your modular cell building kits.
Could you do a video on how to make bottle shaped battery packs.
No no no, this is not about energy drink called Battery.
But this will not balance charge every cell. Is this not Nessisary?
You don’t need a spacer?
Do you really need all those strips connecting each row? Wouldn't one on each end be sufficient?
One would create a perfectly functional electrical circuit, but multiple strips mean you can carry more current. More current = more power.
What would it cost in materials to build a 30a 48v battery for my scooter? Do you do custom builds? This for my scooter, they charge $400 for this battery which seems way too much.
I used to ebike to work, but that was with a sharkpack. I could just unlock it and take it with me. If I make a big pack of my own, or a triangle pack. Is there a way to quickly take it with me. I want to minimize opportunity for theft. Thanks.
Would you recommend using the vruzend battery kit to make a 48v 20ah battery for an ebike? I don't have the equipment to do the soldering and stuff.
are these 3.7v 3200mah batteries?
Can you charge the battery with an inverter
is it ok or safe to make 48v 60ah battery pack for my fiido m21?
INTERESTING VIDEO AND COMMENTS... did any of the viewers actually use this info to actually make an ebike battery? Anymore tips from that?
Where can I get one of your kits?
So how many of these would it take to power something like a super
Soco?
13S6P battery? So these are 3.7V 3400mah per each cell. That sounds.. Expensive ^^
Great video.
Question, my battery is 48v 20ah. My controller is 48v 20ah. Manufacturer upgrade from 20ah b/c none in stock.
Will this combo work? Heard it could damage battery. I use PAS too when riding.
Hope you can help.
/Bklyn👑
I feel dumb lol why did you solder + and - ?? I thought all cells had to be facing same way :s
What BMS do you use? If you don't mind. Thanks Pete
The best BMS that's in the market now is the one, that I'm using is SKYRC MODEL B6AC+ ver2.0.
It's a Professional Balance Charger/ Discharger.
It has mains input as well as 12V DC. It has built in Battery meter, Battery Internal resistance Meter, re-Peak Module for NiMH, NiCd type batteries, Terminal Voltage Control, Computer input control and IOS wiFi control through WiFi module.
I am extremely satisfied with this Balance Charger.
I forgot to add that the SKYRC BMS comes in BLACK PAINT WITH RED, BLUE, YELLOW and GREEN tactile touch pads.
This device charges, Li-Ion, Li-Polymer, Lithium, Ferro-Phosphate, NiMH, NiCd and PB batteries.
Buy from an authorized dealer to avoid cheap clones. Cheers.
A BMS is a Battery Management System, a component added to a battery to monitor the status of individual cells. The BMS keeps the battery healthy, theoretically.
For most of us, the B6AC is not powerful enough to balance charge our batteries. The B6AC can only handle 6 batteries in series, and eBike batteries have at least 10, and often 14 cells in series. You can break a 14S battery into 3 smaller batteries for charging, but that takes 3X longer.
B6AC is a battery charger, NOT an on-board BMS such as is used here. These battery-packs are intended for building electrically assisted bicycles needing lots of voltage and charge capacity. The B6AC is a great charger and diagnosis tools for individual 18650 cells or small battery-packs such as for radio controlled toys and drones. I am about to buy one myself, but it is not a BMS for this kind of application or purpouse.
Indeed, I checked the website and the kit, and it does not say. The only information given is:
"30A continuous balancing Battery Management System (BMS) with wires already presoldered XT-90 discharge connectors with 50 cm 12 AWG silicone wires presoldered"
(Phew, they need to learn punctuation!)
Let start off saying I love your videos! Very informative, Clear and to the point, One of the best video editing and quality. Now you had mentioned you build battery packs for customers. What is your business web site?