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Shane! People! This really deserves an update, there are new LED Bulbs out now, same socket E27 but crazy efficiency. Think the most efficient is Phlips 210lumen/watt. Theres also a 23W bulb that gives 3500 lumen, so 150 lumen per/watt. In any case a good chunk more than 120 lumen per watt. Id love to see what Shane can build with this bulbs, please like this post to make him see that if you share the excitement over this topic.
He's going for budget tho how much more expensive are these bulbs. If there to expensive u might as buy a real grow light like a mars hydro or something for 70 bucks
@Timothy Kappel Idk how he’s going for “budget” if this whole fixture already costs nearly close to $100 anyway. I think Shane brought the 6 bulbs which = 100w for $59. So… a 2pk of 23w CFLs are $10. $40 for four 2pks. A $20 saving for almost the same wattage, which is about the same as a Bloom Plus anyway - 85/90w*. Even Mars ts600 is only 90/95w. So it’s not “technically” a budget build - especially if there’s QB builds out there for the same price (like as you said, Mars or even Bloom Plus). This is a DIY project or for someone electrically savvy or for those who already have lamp fixtures lying around. Cos realistically, this setup will cost comparatively the same as just buying a Mars or SF or Vipar… or as mentioned a Bloom Plus - which are as good as the others for a little cheaper - AND they come with warranty’s and guarantees. Unlike this DIY fixture, which if it does fck up somewhere, you’ll have to repair and replace yourself.
@@Freedom_Born if u have the outlets and wire already u can build the light for $20 with the Walmart LEDs as stated in my previous reply. And once again cfl aren't nearly as efficient as a led when it comes to growing u need twice the wattage per SQ foot so there's no reason to use them. LEDs are the same price if not cheaper and use half the watts.
@Timothy Kappel I know what you’re talking about, but, as per my original reply - I’m specifically referring to CFLs regarding their IR/UV output. I know the efficiency is better for LED, but CFL do better in the UV and Far Red spectrum than LED does,, it’s more efficiently better to run CFLs for supplemental IR/UV than LEDs. But as Shane himself stated in a MrGrowIt interview, supplemental far red and by extension even UV bulbs - aren’t “really” required nowadays if your fixture is good enough (as expected with mid tier brands like Mars, Vipar etc…). Because most lights come equipped with enough blue and far red to do a whole grow - if they don’t already have them included. Particularly the KS5000 from Viparspectra, which doesn’t have IR/UV diodes. For a light that big and expensive, the manufacturer must know they’re not absolutely necessary in excess amounts. Whereas with monster top tier brands, you can actually dial in separate IR/UV diodes/dimmers… whether those even make *much* of a difference determines whether you justify the [crazy] price(s) or not.
This is why you're such a legend Shane. You design and sell your own equipment, and still tell people how to build their own budget light. Top stuff my man!! 👍
This is so ace, thanks for sharing. It’s a testament to your character that you’re willing to show your potential customers how to do it themselves on a budget. One love 💚
i mean its low budget but to be honest its not that good.... Every "ready" LED will have more lumen and probably a better spectrum if u really dont have enough money then okay do it and upgrade/add after ur first grow but normally just buy a better LED directly.
@@dernils2311, can you elaborate on your comment that it is not that good and share specific suggestions for something you believe is better? Many of us are just beginning and this is somewhat complicated, but if you could be more specific on an upgrade, it would be appreciated. What if someone just wants to use this setup for growing salad greens and maybe other veggies? Opinions?
Dude, I come back to you every time I'm thinking about lights. I'd like to say thanks for all the knowledge and research. No drama, no 'biggin up', just suitably studious videos.
Man, i just wanted to THANK YOU for your service to the growing community all over the world. I just found this video, somehow I missed it before because it's been around 3 years now watching this channel, and living in a Third World country, this is a MUST WATCH for the vast majority of third world indoor growers all over the world... This is as DIY as it gets, and the best part is that it can be made to work 💪💪💪
Much respect man from Greece!!This test is truly the best and most honest I've ever seen,well done!!You are truly a honest guy..Noone from any other company has the balls to do it,you earn my respect even more!!
youre such a good man Shane, much respect to you for doing this when you make and sell your own lights, God Bless You, i hope your business expands x100
Friends were looking at me crazy for building a veg setup this way with LEDs and CFLs from the hardware store. I learned this from Green Ninja youtube channel (they have not been active for years). If I needed to start up again on a budget or grow in a closet, this is how I would start. 10/10 video Shane along with every other video you do
I have built an array of 36 core pro 2700k lights, I pulled the plastic cover off with a Swedish wrench rather than cutting them. All the lamps I have are like the one shown at 12:49 and not like the others with the screws. This did mean that many on the panels weren't properly inserted and caused the heat to pool in the panel rather than spread to the fixture reducing efficacy, so I jammed them all in properly xD. Keeping the panels around 60C seems to be the sweetspot. Instead of using a solid board I cut strips of wood 0.9cm wide, enough to screw on my porcelain e27 fittings, allowing full air circulation. I tried some other of stuff like drilling holes in the luminaire to increase airflow and applying thermal paste at the contact between the panel and the fixture, the holes actually made it hotter while the thermal paste seemed to have no effect xD. This video really put a smile on my face, thanks! edit: Oh God! I just saw the price you paid :-/ I got the 20 of the lights for 3.2euro each and the next 16 when there was a sale and they were 2.5euro a pop...
I bet you suffered with excessive stretching, caused by the lack of blue light. Having observed various spectra, I've come to the conclusion that 3000K is better than 2700K, while 4000K is better than 3000K - primarily due to the amount of blue that will help reduce stretching - they all have a similar amount of red.
I have an array of 12 of these light bulbs in a 3-foot by 4-foot grow closet in the basement for starting my vegetable seedlings every year. It works very well.
@@MIGROLIGHT I actually ran 20 of these (5000k version) in my mini greenhouse this spring without an issue. Now those fixtures are hanging in my garage for extra lighting, and so far no issues. Tops cut off on all of them.
@@MIGROLIGHT I cut off the tops. No, I've had no issues with the LED's becoming damaged. I have, however, been replacing them with a brighter bulb (150-watt equivalent) that I buy off of Amazon: *SANSI 18W (150 Watt Equivalent) LED Light Bulbs* amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3TBT1G *SANSI 18W (150W Equivalent) LED Bulbs* amazon.co.uk/SANSI-Equivalent-Bright-Daylight-Non-Dimmable/dp/B082KM6Q9T
Got 300watts of globes setup, about $80 worth lol. Some of those phillips ones and osram. 1st run was alright but had to be cut short. It really is this simple, keep it safe electrically and your good to go.
Your concern for your fellow man in kindly offering this useful info is why I will be buying your MIGRO Array system. Your MIGRO products appear to be of excellent quality and your professionalism is remarkable.
A met an old friend with this set up, kinda. He had a 203 blurple light and 3x 13w 2700k. Was getting 60g of hulkberry using only compost and a hint of bloom boost, from autoflower in 30cm x 70cm stealth chest of drawers. It works!
I have been using these and the spiral CFL bulbs in many colors for vegging perfect plants for years.. I try to tell people online in chat for years and they dont listen ha. Even better is the cheap LED flood lights, as all light is directed down and they are perfect strength
Also, I want to add there is a very simple thing people can use that turns 1 spcket into 7 bulbs! Look up 7 in 1 light bulb adapter.. it looks like a christmas tree star in a way, and you simply screw it in the light bulb socket, and youre done
I'm looking for a new and cheaper setup for my carnivorous plants and saw quite a few people claim that consumer lightbulbs simply don't cover the required light spectrum, despite companies like Philips giving you the entire spectrum graph. It's like they want others to waste their money on overpriced equipment. I'm definitely trying this next. I use usual lights to hold the bulbs, so I don't even need to mess around with the wires.
I've been doing this for years. It's great for veging my cannabis plants before I put them outside for the season . The dollar store one's with the red/blue are the best 😎🇨🇦
I made a Light that has eight Bulbs about 20 watts each, Cool White for Veg and Warm White for Flower to cover a small area about 1.5 feet by 2.5 feet, it has reflector panels and three small PC fans to pull the warm air up and out. It pulls about 160 watts and works well for 3 small plants in 2 gallon pots. Using better brighter Bulbs makes a big difference but adds a lot to the build cost. Being able to swap out Bulbs is a good thing.
You could get more watts/lumens per area by using GU10 LED bulbs mounted in a tight array. GU10 bulbs are available at >100l/watt, and the ceramic sockets can be bought in large quantities at a much lower cost than even E27 screw fixtures.
They sell a 5-7 mogul socket, "star shaped" adapter(so the 5-7 sockets are in a circle, about an 8" diameter all around, which screws into 1 mogul socket). Cheap on Amazon! I've used the 100W equivalent lights also, but was able to "snap" the glass like cover(it was plastic, no glue, so I used a knife to pry it off easily. I started to saw it off, lol, and said "F it!", I think these will pry off..?). Easy! Great job Shane! Very nice to see the actual 3K spectrum, etc. Your a great guy Shane!!!
It's been 5 years i'm telling that you Can Do what you show here. But i thought about what we call in France ''lampeco'' wich means something like ''ecolight'' and that's a kind of cfl lamp. Your Idea about cutting plastic from LEDs is really nice, bravo!
what about the floodlight LEDs? those reflectors seem to aim the light down much better. Also there's varying wattages all the way up to 350W (equivalent) per bulb
you can , just get 3 or 4 floodlights with 30 or 50 watts ... you dont need to cut em open , and i bet they have more output , or just get a high bay light
@@Jellyf0x i use those floods as lower canopy light from the sides with an moddet spider farmer sf2000 from the top , but for veg i use a different setup made from flood lights only 3x30w... it works awesome , you should give it a try just to see.. shame i cant measure it with an par meter, i only got a cheap lux meter , that yellow one shane has shown in one of his videos
@@perenti666 You've just reminded me I have 2 50w floods I'd bought for the garden and never used. I do like to experiment, I'm hoping to pick up one of the UV bulbs Shane developed.
That is awesome. I plan to upgrade from my screw in LEDs but it is nice to see they weren’t half bad all these years. Thanks for this. Also you making videos like this is why I will be upgrading to a migro array for my tent. It really shows the confidence you have in your product that you are willing to show information like this.
I started growing three years ago with a few Philips bulbs as they had the highest efficiency at the time, I dismantled the units and mounted the LED pucks and mini transformers to a heat sync and called it a day, I still grow with my first boards which are 100w and now 3 years old. Keep it simple is what I always say.
@@bumboclat unfortunately not, but a google for screw in bulb diy grow lights show bring some old forum posts up. I tried to keep it simple and had 15+ sockets on a plate or board and just put the bulbs in. Something to note, if you go for the lower quality bulbs know they put out the extra list energy to heat as the leds make less light but consume the same electricity.
You can cut the ends off the bulbs and achieve more par/light it will simply remove the outer layer which is stopping some Par/light, it will expose the diodes, you would just want to be careful when watering or folar feeding. You would for sure have gotten better numbers if you had cut the bottoms off the bulbs. Many videos on RUclips with this done, i did try this myself 4 or 5 years ago. Edit i commented to soon watching you cut the ends right now see if i was right i know i am has to be better. Thanks Shane great video. Edit again just saw new numbers wow crazy you will now have many people on a budget making this set up better numbers than the older model mars, meizhi, viparspectra all the oder models with the old epistar leds. Even good for to add for some extra par to fill out a area on the sides or ends were someone could use some extra light but dont have another grow light this one be a great solution to help fatten the colas that were not getting enough light.
Thanks for being such an humble and nice human being, sharing killer knowledge even while running a company selling pro stuff. I'm working on a extremely low budget+scrap yard 2x3 project based off 5 quite big e27 bulbs (and 2 cheap 50w cobs), the par measurements here makes me hopeful :) JUST A REMINDER: especially for bigger bulbs pay attention to the exposed contacts on the board!!! This 23.5w 2700k Lexman bulb I have here is quite hot, runs at >300Volts!!! Other brand, 18w 3000k: 260v. You don't want to touch that. I thought my multimeter was broken at first. For my build I will cover the naked contacts in resin or something.
@@PenultimaGamrAKAhank EZPZ your black out green house here in cali we do "hoop houses" pvc hoops with plastic blackout early 12/12 while you have over 12/ light you get 2-3 pulls instead of 1 , its called light depravation. nuyt you can add CFL bulb ot door to supplement light to get you 12. my "outdoor season" deps in NORCAL is 3 pulls starting at the last frost march/april a 20x60 dep pulls 50lbs ezpz 3 times
@@PenultimaGamrAKAhank back in 2008 ish they'd sell it as indoor to plebs LOL cats out the bag ........... i can teach you the way YT and grow plebs will hate me
BIG Thumbs up! Excellent use of consumer stuff, which is all around. While I sit about to figure out the direct power supply for COB arrays at the optimum drive level for efficiency, these are easy to plug and play!
@ewrecc420 I doubt they were actually better than the ones presented in this clip - that is the sad part. I too have done that mistake (I got the ikea ones - probably around 1.3 PPFD best case scenario - RIP money).
@@fairvlad Some of those lamps have borderline unethical (in terms of being fair to the consumer) pricing. I've seen several brands that cost 30-60 euro for what's essentially one 20 watt lamp. I've definitely seen at least one 30 euro bulb that was 14 or 15 watt. Even if your pitch is that they're only for keeping one, small houseplant alive (they aren't sold with that messaging) it's still a really bad deal that takes advantage of peoples unfamiliarity with the subject.
Hey Shane, did the same two years ago, because Philips has some datasheets online with the spectrum curve of their light bulbs. But i bought 2 of those you've bought, and a 2500lm 4000K Bulb. I did some calculations ( don't have a PAR meter) but this bulb should give a bit better PAR-Reading per Watt then the 2700K 1521lm ones. So happy to see something like my build on your channel. Greetings, Max :)
I've come to this conclusion, not only agreeing with your suggestion, but also that while 4000K bulbs (and even 5000K) produce a similar quantity of red light as 2700K, they also produce a higher quantity of blue, which reduces undesirable stretching. Unfortunately, 2700K will produce excessive stretching.
There are better options such as sealed floodlights now available rated for outdoor use at much lower cost. I bought one 200 watt, 6000k/6500k floodlight for $16 US and another 200w 3000k for $18 when I saw them on sale about a year ago. They each use 140 lumen per watt chips, which don't exactly relate to PAR value, but are pretty efficient.
The results from led bulbs are amazing, you can make some very powerful led lights, cut the diffuser at 25mm and leave it on the bulb and you will get about 10% more light, reflects some unused light back on the canopy, you can make a reflector by wrapping the inside of the diffuser with foil tape, but attention to detail is very important, once the foil tape is stuck(good quality thick tape), and it warms up its not coming off, it becomes over 30% more effective, some bulbs have parallel resistors, you can remove one and it drop the watts, can be reduced by 50% and the bulb runs cool, 40c instead of 85c in some cases, when bulbs run less watts they become more effective per watt, when bulbs run cooler they last longer, years longer and they put out more light.
The diffusers are very difficult to cut accurately. A lathe with the bulb mounted in the chuck would do it, but that's an expensive extra. Even if you can manage to leave about 25mm attached, rather than applying tape (which would fall off), a better idea would be to paint the inside of the remaining diffuser with matte white paint, which has better light-reflecting properties than a shiny surface.
@@CrankCase08 its not difficult to cut accurately, hang a budget Dremel tool upside down, fix it in place, adjust the high and rotate diffusers in a circle, perfect cut every time, make the hole just large enough to pinch the corners of the led, use a small amount of silicone sealant to hold it in place, I sprayed each reflector with a base coat and chrome effect spray, (thin coats), the results are really good, white paint did improve the results vs not using any spray but it was not great. ruclips.net/user/shortsbLQJK_4pFvk I used to grow with hps and then started to use led bulbs, led bulbs feels a lot safer.
@@marksmith-cg7wl Shiny reflector surfaces tend to produce hot spots. This is why manufactured reflectors always have a matte surface, whether it be matte aluminium or matte white.
Beautiful work Shane. My setup uses splitter adapters. I’ve got a few lamps already, so i just ordered splitters and bought 23w (CW & WW) CFLs. 2 lamps, 4 splitters each. During veg I’ll use 4 of each, 2 on each splitter, 4 Cool White & 4 Warm White. During flower i change them all to WW. Since my light doesn’t have IR/UV and CFLs do, it’s perfect. I’m not worried about how much extra wattage I’m getting, it’s rather for the IR and UV.
First time on your channel, pretty awsome of you to provide people with that knowledge when you could have tried to sell them on your own lights, youve gained a sub
I built a variation of this 10 years ago and still use it. I used 3x 12 outlet power strips and plug to socket adapters, bulbs are 4 inches apart. Between the power strips I ran fluorescent bulbs to get some uv. Wish I could test them, but they produce better flower than actual grow lights.
Nice! This is almost exactly one of my setups, just with 8 bulbs. Always thought the efficiency would be terrible, although i got great results. So nice to see it's actually decent. Thanks a lot Shane. Next light will be a Migro for sure.
I have build my own aquaponic system and right now the plants are not looking too great. As far as i see it they are not getting enough light. Right now i am looking into different grow lights for my (40cmx60cm) growbed that does not flood my electric bill. Seeing all these 200watt lamps makes my wallet go really sad. That is a lot of money every month. I was looking a different lights on amazon now found this diy method. As far as an amateur reads this this seems to be more efficient then most of the lights i find on amazon correct?
You can usually remove the tops by pinching them with a large pliers (slip-joint works great). The tops will probably crack before you get them off but it's easier to remove and you don't have a bunch of plastic dust in your "tanning booth".
Lol tanning booth. When i first got my 4x4 and set it up. My sister came in and says… “Awesome, a tanning booth” I didn’t know that she was talking about so she told me. People stand in there and get sprayed. Lol i freaked, a 48yo just learning what a tanning booth was.
Suggestion : shoot a heat gun at the junction dome/body , use gloves , turn slowly , when reached proper temp the dome will pull off easily . Did you test 2700k versus 5000k ?
Just bought 3 packs of 3 lamps ( 9 lamps total ) for 3,75 eur each pack. Gonna try to cut the tops without damaging it. Edit: used it in 2 plants at a time, for vegging i use T5 lamps, for flowering I've made 5 crops now with this setup. Works great.
Sorry I'm late. What do you need to know? For a tent with 90cm wide, 40 on the sides, works great. Two plants at a time. Now, it's in a 1m² tent and still works out for maybe 4 plants, with additional huge vegging and flowering CFL bulbs i bought for 2eur each.
Cool but I'm not sure 2700k would be suitable for veg? Wouldn't working in a couple higher k lights create a more suitable spectrum? Also I think covering that wood in foil or painting it white would help a little.
Good one Shane.this film gives hope to all amateur guerillas who don't have the cash to buy into growing.I was there once and this would've been such a help.✌️🌱👏👏
I had same idea.Dollar Tree has 9w bulbs for $1 both cool and warm. I had the idea of cuttingtops offbulbs too.But if you are handy cut the bases off and wire everything together to save money on receptacles.
I love those ones you never know some people may not have any money I need to show them somewhere they can get by my first growers it with lightbulbs years ago that was fun thanks
I have bought several LED flood lights, waterproof, with 100-200 watts per fixture(actual draw about 85% of that) for $8-12 US watching the Amazon site and sorting through dozens of lights. Just ordered one today for $12.20, 20,000 lumens, 2800-3200k. This eliminates the fuss of wiring. I had a couple fixtures using many single bulbs like this video. Bulbs of ~9 watts cost about $1, but the based are about the same, so for $12.20, to get as many watts as the single 200 watt flood light, I would need to spend at least $20 using cheap parts. With the complete outdoor rated flood light, they are no exposed wires, and the cover is clear, non- diffusing. The only issue would be the need to hang a little higher to even out the coverage because the LEDs are mounted pretty tightly in a maybe 4 x 7 inch area. And it is non=dimmable, where you can take and add single bulbs in the array of many bulbs. I pretty much assume that 2700k, or 3000k will be the same whether mounted in the single large fixture or spread over 9 or 14 individual bulbs. I want to say that I have learned a whole lot by watching your videos, and by far, this is my favorite because it hits home. I live on a very limited budget, and could never afford a real quality grow light, or even the cheaper Chinese models flooding the market. I do say that you need to read the fine print on any light you buy, at least in the US. A light, or grow light labelled as 2000w may be anywhere from 175 watts used to maybe 600 watts. One brand's 100w may have more power than another brand's 1800W and be lower priced. Again, thank you for your service.
i have a setup of 14 5000k bulbs topps removed in two 7 way splitters from amazon..im averaging about 800-900 ppfd depending on height i set them at. at least if i calculated correctly..shane from migrow has a video on converting lux to ppfd and if i calculated correctly thats what i came up with.
Shane you can get a mogul that has 8 mogul for the bulbs to screw in. And Fiet Electric grow bubs works great. I use em for seedling propagating chamber. And Fiet Electric has likeable 2 tune fixtures perfect for rack lighting and side lighting.
Thanks for this great contribution to the public good. A local shop is closing out 10w, 1100 Lumen bulbs for a buck in 2700 and. 5000K. I see you used 2700, which I understand would provide better photosynthesis. Should I throw in a couple 5000’s to provide more blue?
I modified a bunch of bulbs and experimented with this. Please be careful. The ones I used have exposed terminals on the board that have 120v on them. I’ve been using epoxy or liquid tape to insulate the terminals.
Are these Philips 13W 1521 lumen 2700K still the best cheap option for a DIY setup a year after the video release? I need lights for a one time shelve rack setup, I'm growing 60 citrus seedlings on three 100x60cm shelves, and I'm hoping I can get by with a cheap DIY soulution.
Flat white is more effective at reflecting light that aluminum foil. Shouldn't matter with the bulbs he is using as all the diodes are oriented downwards. However some bulbs have the smd mounted and various angles possibly benefiting from a reflector of a sort.
My neighbor lady grows greens for herself. She told me she was saving for some led's. I gave a similar set up. I used aluminum angle iron instead of plywood. Told her use this while your saving. See if you keep growing and and replace the homemade unit. She sees no need to upgrade. Now I get free spring char and kale.
Great idea demo but for the same money or less you can buy a budget LED fixture like a Vander. I think I paid under £60 for one which is, and has been working well so far. Happy to drop it off to you if you want to test it as a comparison 👍🏻
@@emissary_of_aldebaran I’m not knocking the idea at all. During lockdown I was going to build something similar but after buying bulbs, holders, wire etc it wasn’t far off the cost of a cheap LED panel.
They sell 7 way bulb splitters. Alot less work maybe not as big of a footprint but more intense light. Perfect for a single plant especially if you use different bulbs for veg and flower. I'd use 6 bulbs for veg and 7 bulbs for flower.
Would this be possible with GU10 fittings and bulbs ? Also would you be best using 2700k-3500k bulbs for flower and 6000k-6500k for the veg phase ? Cheers in advance
I’ve made my own boards using GU-10’s with 25 x 50w 4000k LED bulbs. I planted 45 Jalapeño seeds on 13 January. 40 germinated in 4 days. I’ve repotted them twice since (now 27 February). They are growing great, nice compact growth, flowers starting already.
They sell string lights that take 10 or 12 regular size bulbs at lowes and amazon. 23 watt high efficiency led GE lights in 5000k and 2700k for a good mix of spectrum. For 100 or so bucks on a 12 socket string, 23 watt lights will give you a 276 watt grow light thatll illuminate a 3x3 like a boss. This guy has some great ideas. I dig it
Ya effin' daisy!! I was literally just looking at the Woodies and Homebase websites to see what they had in the way of lights for this type of endeavor and then I found this videos. Fantastic, thanks for sharing!!!
I've been thinking about doing this but on a larger scale - say 20 bulbs (Noma grow bulbs) place on boards to run up and down the sides of the plants with a few at the top as well. 800 PAR isn't great for growing hemp but with a crap load of bulbs ... :) They use about 7 Watts each so 20 bulbs would only be 140 watts. I was wondering about removing the bulbs, so this was helpful.
Hahaha when I removed the plastic filter from mine. Why didn't I think of a saw. No I used a screwdriver as a spear. Then man handled it off. Great video. I've done some of my own builds. But now I have more respect for professionally made high quality lights.
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hey shane could you do a new diy video with the led tubes to replace flourescent tubes?
Shane! People! This really deserves an update, there are new LED Bulbs out now, same socket E27 but crazy efficiency. Think the most efficient is Phlips 210lumen/watt. Theres also a 23W bulb that gives 3500 lumen, so 150 lumen per/watt. In any case a good chunk more than 120 lumen per watt. Id love to see what Shane can build with this bulbs, please like this post to make him see that if you share the excitement over this topic.
Yeah, i think i remember some places had 28w bulbs too, I’m always looking for higher wattage CFLs cos i use them as UV/IR supplemental during flower.
He's going for budget tho how much more expensive are these bulbs. If there to expensive u might as buy a real grow light like a mars hydro or something for 70 bucks
@Timothy Kappel
Idk how he’s going for “budget” if this whole fixture already costs nearly close to $100 anyway.
I think Shane brought the 6 bulbs which = 100w for $59.
So… a 2pk of 23w CFLs are $10. $40 for four 2pks. A $20 saving for almost the same wattage, which is about the same as a Bloom Plus anyway - 85/90w*. Even Mars ts600 is only 90/95w. So it’s not “technically” a budget build - especially if there’s QB builds out there for the same price (like as you said, Mars or even Bloom Plus).
This is a DIY project or for someone electrically savvy or for those who already have lamp fixtures lying around. Cos realistically, this setup will cost comparatively the same as just buying a Mars or SF or Vipar… or as mentioned a Bloom Plus - which are as good as the others for a little cheaper - AND they come with warranty’s and guarantees. Unlike this DIY fixture, which if it does fck up somewhere, you’ll have to repair and replace yourself.
@@Freedom_Born if u have the outlets and wire already u can build the light for $20 with the Walmart LEDs as stated in my previous reply. And once again cfl aren't nearly as efficient as a led when it comes to growing u need twice the wattage per SQ foot so there's no reason to use them. LEDs are the same price if not cheaper and use half the watts.
@Timothy Kappel
I know what you’re talking about, but, as per my original reply - I’m specifically referring to CFLs regarding their IR/UV output. I know the efficiency is better for LED, but CFL do better in the UV and Far Red spectrum than LED does,, it’s more efficiently better to run CFLs for supplemental IR/UV than LEDs. But as Shane himself stated in a MrGrowIt interview, supplemental far red and by extension even UV bulbs - aren’t “really” required nowadays if your fixture is good enough (as expected with mid tier brands like Mars, Vipar etc…). Because most lights come equipped with enough blue and far red to do a whole grow - if they don’t already have them included. Particularly the KS5000 from Viparspectra, which doesn’t have IR/UV diodes. For a light that big and expensive, the manufacturer must know they’re not absolutely necessary in excess amounts.
Whereas with monster top tier brands, you can actually dial in separate IR/UV diodes/dimmers… whether those even make *much* of a difference determines whether you justify the [crazy] price(s) or not.
This is why you're such a legend Shane. You design and sell your own equipment, and still tell people how to build their own budget light. Top stuff my man!! 👍
Thank you, you said it right.🌝
Qq
1
This is so ace, thanks for sharing. It’s a testament to your character that you’re willing to show your potential customers how to do it themselves on a budget. One love 💚
No doubt, great stuff!!!!
He should quit the LED game and go into teaching business ethics. The guy is a class act in every regard.
He’s one of the real ones
i mean its low budget but to be honest its not that good.... Every "ready" LED will have more lumen and probably a better spectrum
if u really dont have enough money then okay do it and upgrade/add after ur first grow but normally just buy a better LED directly.
@@dernils2311, can you elaborate on your comment that it is not that good and share specific suggestions for something you believe is better? Many of us are just beginning and this is somewhat complicated, but if you could be more specific on an upgrade, it would be appreciated. What if someone just wants to use this setup for growing salad greens and maybe other veggies? Opinions?
Dude, I come back to you every time I'm thinking about lights. I'd like to say thanks for all the knowledge and research.
No drama, no 'biggin up', just suitably studious videos.
Thank you for this, Shane you are a voice of clarity in the led world
The community NEEDS information like this! Thank goodness for honest influencers like yall!
Excellent 3am-can't-sleep video
5am :P
Lol, 3 months later I found this at 3:30am 🤷🏻♀️
💯💯🤣🤣🤣🤣
09/03/21
3:03 am 😆😆
REAL
in Buenos Aires, Argentina 🍺
It's 5am cheers lol
The patron saint of indoor growers. Respect.
Man, i just wanted to THANK YOU for your service to the growing community all over the world.
I just found this video, somehow I missed it before because it's been around 3 years now watching this channel, and living in a Third World country, this is a MUST WATCH for the vast majority of third world indoor growers all over the world...
This is as DIY as it gets, and the best part is that it can be made to work 💪💪💪
Much respect man from Greece!!This test is truly the best and most honest I've ever seen,well done!!You are truly a honest guy..Noone from any other company has the balls to do it,you earn my respect even more!!
youre such a good man Shane, much respect to you for doing this when you make and sell your own lights, God Bless You, i hope your business expands x100
Friends were looking at me crazy for building a veg setup this way with LEDs and CFLs from the hardware store. I learned this from Green Ninja youtube channel (they have not been active for years). If I needed to start up again on a budget or grow in a closet, this is how I would start. 10/10 video Shane along with every other video you do
Not many good honest people like him around anymore, great video
Haha I read it so wrong! I thought "well I think many honest people might like him around since he seem to be quite honest himself" :D
I have built an array of 36 core pro 2700k lights, I pulled the plastic cover off with a Swedish wrench rather than cutting them. All the lamps I have are like the one shown at 12:49 and not like the others with the screws. This did mean that many on the panels weren't properly inserted and caused the heat to pool in the panel rather than spread to the fixture reducing efficacy, so I jammed them all in properly xD. Keeping the panels around 60C seems to be the sweetspot. Instead of using a solid board I cut strips of wood 0.9cm wide, enough to screw on my porcelain e27 fittings, allowing full air circulation. I tried some other of stuff like drilling holes in the luminaire to increase airflow and applying thermal paste at the contact between the panel and the fixture, the holes actually made it hotter while the thermal paste seemed to have no effect xD. This video really put a smile on my face, thanks!
edit: Oh God! I just saw the price you paid :-/ I got the 20 of the lights for 3.2euro each and the next 16 when there was a sale and they were 2.5euro a pop...
Even cheaper now on Amazon and eBay.
I bet you suffered with excessive stretching, caused by the lack of blue light. Having observed various spectra, I've come to the conclusion that 3000K is better than 2700K, while 4000K is better than 3000K - primarily due to the amount of blue that will help reduce stretching - they all have a similar amount of red.
I have an array of 12 of these light bulbs in a 3-foot by 4-foot grow closet in the basement for starting my vegetable seedlings every year. It works very well.
Tops on or off? If tops are off have you had any issues with the LEDs getting damaged?
@@MIGROLIGHT I actually ran 20 of these (5000k version) in my mini greenhouse this spring without an issue. Now those fixtures are hanging in my garage for extra lighting, and so far no issues. Tops cut off on all of them.
Just remember to check the age and be clear that you have the consent before ripping the top off 😏.
@@MIGROLIGHT I cut off the tops. No, I've had no issues with the LED's becoming damaged.
I have, however, been replacing them with a brighter bulb (150-watt equivalent) that I buy off of Amazon:
*SANSI 18W (150 Watt Equivalent) LED Light Bulbs*
amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3TBT1G
*SANSI 18W (150W Equivalent) LED Bulbs*
amazon.co.uk/SANSI-Equivalent-Bright-Daylight-Non-Dimmable/dp/B082KM6Q9T
@@MIGROLIGHT Hi Shane, I have the tops off for 18 months now and no problems at all ;-) I use the Philips 12.5W 4000K ;-)
Got 300watts of globes setup, about $80 worth lol. Some of those phillips ones and osram. 1st run was alright but had to be cut short. It really is this simple, keep it safe electrically and your good to go.
Ended up melting the tops off because of all the plastic flying everywhere when I used the hacksaw. Went all over the leds, cleaner to melt.
Bloody cold though, cuoboard barely gets 6c above ambient without heating.
I Vote Shane as earths morality guide. More respectable ethics than any guru. 💚
Glad I found his page!!!!
Look at the result of similar bulbs ruclips.net/video/hFFKXvNAON4/видео.html
politicians should take a course led by Shane
Shane is a good guy. Thank you for this good vid for beginners.
I respect this chap so much. I’ve seen people make them before and I giggled. But the numbers don’t lie.
Your concern for your fellow man in kindly offering this useful info is why I will be buying your MIGRO Array system. Your MIGRO products appear to be of excellent quality and your professionalism is remarkable.
Thanks.
A met an old friend with this set up, kinda. He had a 203 blurple light and 3x 13w 2700k.
Was getting 60g of hulkberry using only compost and a hint of bloom boost, from autoflower in 30cm x 70cm stealth chest of drawers.
It works!
Always helping people. Seriously! You are a decent human being as you could just promote your own products non stop. Thank you, always...
I have been using these and the spiral CFL bulbs in many colors for vegging perfect plants for years.. I try to tell people online in chat for years and they dont listen ha. Even better is the cheap LED flood lights, as all light is directed down and they are perfect strength
Also, I want to add there is a very simple thing people can use that turns 1 spcket into 7 bulbs! Look up 7 in 1 light bulb adapter.. it looks like a christmas tree star in a way, and you simply screw it in the light bulb socket, and youre done
tell me more please
I'm looking for a new and cheaper setup for my carnivorous plants and saw quite a few people claim that consumer lightbulbs simply don't cover the required light spectrum, despite companies like Philips giving you the entire spectrum graph. It's like they want others to waste their money on overpriced equipment. I'm definitely trying this next. I use usual lights to hold the bulbs, so I don't even need to mess around with the wires.
I've been doing this for years. It's great for veging my cannabis plants before I put them outside for the season . The dollar store one's with the red/blue are the best 😎🇨🇦
I made a Light that has eight Bulbs about 20 watts each, Cool White for Veg and Warm White for Flower to cover a small area about 1.5 feet by 2.5 feet, it has reflector panels and three small PC fans to pull the warm air up and out. It pulls about 160 watts and works well for 3 small plants in 2 gallon pots. Using better brighter Bulbs makes a big difference but adds a lot to the build cost. Being able to swap out Bulbs is a good thing.
The tree fans were enough to deal w the heat?? Do you have any pic of the setup?? Im doing basically the same but the heat goes crazy
You could get more watts/lumens per area by using GU10 LED bulbs mounted in a tight array. GU10 bulbs are available at >100l/watt, and the ceramic sockets can be bought in large quantities at a much lower cost than even E27 screw fixtures.
They sell a 5-7 mogul socket, "star shaped" adapter(so the 5-7 sockets are in a circle, about an 8" diameter all around, which screws into 1 mogul socket). Cheap on Amazon!
I've used the 100W equivalent lights also, but was able to "snap" the glass like cover(it was plastic, no glue, so I used a knife to pry it off easily. I started to saw it off, lol, and said "F it!", I think these will pry off..?).
Easy!
Great job Shane! Very nice to see the actual 3K spectrum, etc.
Your a great guy Shane!!!
Outstanding work! Thank you so much for your efforts, it was very interesting, very scientific and informative!
It's been 5 years i'm telling that you Can Do what you show here. But i thought about what we call in France ''lampeco'' wich means something like ''ecolight'' and that's a kind of cfl lamp. Your Idea about cutting plastic from LEDs is really nice, bravo!
what about the floodlight LEDs? those reflectors seem to aim the light down much better. Also there's varying wattages all the way up to 350W (equivalent) per bulb
Love the slight choke up before “reasonably safe”
How nice a fella this man is .thank you for all the advice and tips .
You can't get much easier than that! Thank you Shane, love the channel!
you can , just get 3 or 4 floodlights with 30 or 50 watts ... you dont need to cut em open , and i bet they have more output , or just get a high bay light
@@perenti666 This is more about taking advantage of the efficiency. These beat Mars ts series.
@@OG_VeniVidiVici Okay it can get easier! Only £7. I might add some lights to supplement the lower canopy.👍
@@Jellyf0x i use those floods as lower canopy light from the sides with an moddet spider farmer sf2000 from the top , but for veg i use a different setup made from flood lights only 3x30w... it works awesome , you should give it a try just to see..
shame i cant measure it with an par meter, i only got a cheap lux meter , that yellow one shane has shown in one of his videos
@@perenti666 You've just reminded me I have 2 50w floods I'd bought for the garden and never used. I do like to experiment, I'm hoping to pick up one of the UV bulbs Shane developed.
That is awesome. I plan to upgrade from my screw in LEDs but it is nice to see they weren’t half bad all these years. Thanks for this. Also you making videos like this is why I will be upgrading to a migro array for my tent. It really shows the confidence you have in your product that you are willing to show information like this.
I started growing three years ago with a few Philips bulbs as they had the highest efficiency at the time, I dismantled the units and mounted the LED pucks and mini transformers to a heat sync and called it a day, I still grow with my first boards which are 100w and now 3 years old. Keep it simple is what I always say.
Want to do the same. Do you have any pictures anywhere on the web?
@@bumboclat unfortunately not, but a google for screw in bulb diy grow lights show bring some old forum posts up. I tried to keep it simple and had 15+ sockets on a plate or board and just put the bulbs in. Something to note, if you go for the lower quality bulbs know they put out the extra list energy to heat as the leds make less light but consume the same electricity.
@@olafbig did you dismantle the bulbs to use the led disc only, with external driver, or each disc with the original driver?
Shane you are always open and honest. What a great tip for budget growers!
You can cut the ends off the bulbs and achieve more par/light it will simply remove the outer layer which is stopping some Par/light, it will expose the diodes, you would just want to be careful when watering or folar feeding. You would for sure have gotten better numbers if you had cut the bottoms off the bulbs. Many videos on RUclips with this done, i did try this myself 4 or 5 years ago. Edit i commented to soon watching you cut the ends right now see if i was right i know i am has to be better. Thanks Shane great video. Edit again just saw new numbers wow crazy you will now have many people on a budget making this set up better numbers than the older model mars, meizhi, viparspectra all the oder models with the old epistar leds. Even good for to add for some extra par to fill out a area on the sides or ends were someone could use some extra light but dont have another grow light this one be a great solution to help fatten the colas that were not getting enough light.
Thanks for being such an humble and nice human being, sharing killer knowledge even while running a company selling pro stuff.
I'm working on a extremely low budget+scrap yard 2x3 project based off 5 quite big e27 bulbs (and 2 cheap 50w cobs), the par measurements here makes me hopeful :)
JUST A REMINDER: especially for bigger bulbs pay attention to the exposed contacts on the board!!! This 23.5w 2700k Lexman bulb I have here is quite hot, runs at >300Volts!!! Other brand, 18w 3000k: 260v. You don't want to touch that. I thought my multimeter was broken at first. For my build I will cover the naked contacts in resin or something.
ive actually done this years ago worked great
@SEEK ONE light deps are the way nowadays
@@GigaVids whats a "light dep"?
@@PenultimaGamrAKAhank EZPZ your black out green house here in cali we do "hoop houses" pvc hoops with plastic blackout early 12/12 while you have over 12/ light you get 2-3 pulls instead of 1 , its called light depravation. nuyt you can add CFL bulb ot door to supplement light to get you 12. my "outdoor season" deps in NORCAL is 3 pulls starting at the last frost march/april a 20x60 dep pulls 50lbs ezpz 3 times
@@PenultimaGamrAKAhank back in 2008 ish they'd sell it as indoor to plebs LOL cats out the bag ........... i can teach you the way YT and grow plebs will hate me
Bro i was just about to head to the hardware store. THANK YOU for the input
Van Helsing great info! Thanks!
BIG Thumbs up! Excellent use of consumer stuff, which is all around.
While I sit about to figure out the direct power supply for COB arrays at the optimum drive level for efficiency, these are easy to plug and play!
Let's be honest everyone has thought about this the first time they think about a small stealth tomatoe plant grow
@ewrecc420 I doubt they were actually better than the ones presented in this clip - that is the sad part. I too have done that mistake (I got the ikea ones - probably around 1.3 PPFD best case scenario - RIP money).
@@fairvlad Some of those lamps have borderline unethical (in terms of being fair to the consumer) pricing. I've seen several brands that cost 30-60 euro for what's essentially one 20 watt lamp. I've definitely seen at least one 30 euro bulb that was 14 or 15 watt.
Even if your pitch is that they're only for keeping one, small houseplant alive (they aren't sold with that messaging) it's still a really bad deal that takes advantage of peoples unfamiliarity with the subject.
Stealth tomatoes ay hehe hehe.
I don't mind tomatoes, but I prefer lemon skunk.
Gotta keep them tomatoes away from the neighbors 😉
It's basically exactly what I did for my first grow light It worked great.
What were you able to grow using this method?
Hey Shane, did the same two years ago, because Philips has some datasheets online with the spectrum curve of their light bulbs. But i bought 2 of those you've bought, and a 2500lm 4000K Bulb. I did some calculations ( don't have a PAR meter) but this bulb should give a bit better PAR-Reading per Watt then the 2700K 1521lm ones.
So happy to see something like my build on your channel.
Greetings, Max :)
I've come to this conclusion, not only agreeing with your suggestion, but also that while 4000K bulbs (and even 5000K) produce a similar quantity of red light as 2700K, they also produce a higher quantity of blue, which reduces undesirable stretching. Unfortunately, 2700K will produce excessive stretching.
A lot of thanks for this work. Hello from Russia)
Privet dude! Kak dela? Ever try Moscow Blueberry from Kalashnikov Seeds?
15:40 any risks for the LEDs and the fixture as a whole? What about moisture build up and risk of short circuit?
There are better options such as sealed floodlights now available rated for outdoor use at much lower cost. I bought one 200 watt, 6000k/6500k floodlight for $16 US and another 200w 3000k for $18 when I saw them on sale about a year ago. They each use 140 lumen per watt chips, which don't exactly relate to PAR value, but are pretty efficient.
i've been waiting for this one, many people asked for this and i'm glad you finally did it.
The results from led bulbs are amazing, you can make some very powerful led lights, cut the diffuser at 25mm and leave it on the bulb and you will get about 10% more light, reflects some unused light back on the canopy, you can make a reflector by wrapping the inside of the diffuser with foil tape, but attention to detail is very important, once the foil tape is stuck(good quality thick tape), and it warms up its not coming off, it becomes over 30% more effective, some bulbs have parallel resistors, you can remove one and it drop the watts, can be reduced by 50% and the bulb runs cool, 40c instead of 85c in some cases, when bulbs run less watts they become more effective per watt, when bulbs run cooler they last longer, years longer and they put out more light.
Sounds like a house fire waiting to happen honestly
The diffusers are very difficult to cut accurately. A lathe with the bulb mounted in the chuck would do it, but that's an expensive extra. Even if you can manage to leave about 25mm attached, rather than applying tape (which would fall off), a better idea would be to paint the inside of the remaining diffuser with matte white paint, which has better light-reflecting properties than a shiny surface.
@@CrankCase08 its not difficult to cut accurately, hang a budget Dremel tool upside down, fix it in place, adjust the high and rotate diffusers in a circle, perfect cut every time, make the hole just large enough to pinch the corners of the led, use a small amount of silicone sealant to hold it in place, I sprayed each reflector with a base coat and chrome effect spray, (thin coats), the results are really good, white paint did improve the results vs not using any spray but it was not great.
ruclips.net/user/shortsbLQJK_4pFvk
I used to grow with hps and then started to use led bulbs, led bulbs feels a lot safer.
@@marksmith-cg7wl Shiny reflector surfaces tend to produce hot spots. This is why manufactured reflectors always have a matte surface, whether it be matte aluminium or matte white.
Beautiful work Shane.
My setup uses splitter adapters. I’ve got a few lamps already, so i just ordered splitters and bought 23w (CW & WW) CFLs.
2 lamps, 4 splitters each. During veg I’ll use 4 of each, 2 on each splitter, 4 Cool White & 4 Warm White.
During flower i change them all to WW.
Since my light doesn’t have IR/UV and CFLs do, it’s perfect. I’m not worried about how much extra wattage I’m getting, it’s rather for the IR and UV.
Nice, thanks for sharing.
First time on your channel, pretty awsome of you to provide people with that knowledge when you could have tried to sell them on your own lights, youve gained a sub
Brilliant and informative investigation into cost effective grow lights. Thank you for taking the time to put this out there.
I did this back when a Red/Blue crap led light was $350+. I bought
I built a variation of this 10 years ago and still use it. I used 3x 12 outlet power strips and plug to socket adapters, bulbs are 4 inches apart. Between the power strips I ran fluorescent bulbs to get some uv. Wish I could test them, but they produce better flower than actual grow lights.
Thanks for sharing.
Nice! This is almost exactly one of my setups, just with 8 bulbs. Always thought the efficiency would be terrible, although i got great results. So nice to see it's actually decent.
Thanks a lot Shane.
Next light will be a Migro for sure.
❤ JUST WANTED TO SAY 1000 THANKS HAVING FUN AND FLOWERING PHOTO WITH YOUR GROW LIGHTS IN A 2 BY 2 CLOSET GROW SPACE
I have build my own aquaponic system and right now the plants are not looking too great. As far as i see it they are not getting enough light. Right now i am looking into different grow lights for my (40cmx60cm) growbed that does not flood my electric bill. Seeing all these 200watt lamps makes my wallet go really sad. That is a lot of money every month. I was looking a different lights on amazon now found this diy method. As far as an amateur reads this this seems to be more efficient then most of the lights i find on amazon correct?
Hell yeah Shane. Killer vid for DIYers to get growing on a low budget. Very cool. Take care man and be well.
You can usually remove the tops by pinching them with a large pliers (slip-joint works great). The tops will probably crack before you get them off but it's easier to remove and you don't have a bunch of plastic dust in your "tanning booth".
Lol tanning booth.
When i first got my 4x4 and set it up. My sister came in and says… “Awesome, a tanning booth”
I didn’t know that she was talking about so she told me. People stand in there and get sprayed. Lol i freaked, a 48yo just learning what a tanning booth was.
Shane you are a star. reminds me of one of my own early lights.
Suggestion : shoot a heat gun at the junction dome/body , use gloves , turn slowly , when reached proper temp the dome will pull off easily . Did you test 2700k versus 5000k ?
open source grow light tips, great work mate
this setup works even for the blooming?
Just bought 3 packs of 3 lamps ( 9 lamps total ) for 3,75 eur each pack. Gonna try to cut the tops without damaging it.
Edit: used it in 2 plants at a time, for vegging i use T5 lamps, for flowering I've made 5 crops now with this setup. Works great.
Explain more
Sorry I'm late. What do you need to know? For a tent with 90cm wide, 40 on the sides, works great. Two plants at a time. Now, it's in a 1m² tent and still works out for maybe 4 plants, with additional huge vegging and flowering CFL bulbs i bought for 2eur each.
Cool but I'm not sure 2700k would be suitable for veg? Wouldn't working in a couple higher k lights create a more suitable spectrum? Also I think covering that wood in foil or painting it white would help a little.
Thank you for your videos love the way you openly show experiments and review other lights keep up the fab work you deserve way more subs!!
nice ! my respect for you. Shane you are such a open person for everyone
Good one Shane.this film gives hope to all amateur guerillas who don't have the cash to buy into growing.I was there once and this would've been such a help.✌️🌱👏👏
In Russia, because of the dollar exchange rate, this is the only thing we can afford: D
Buy in Bitcoin then
@MrJre4491 if he had bought some 2 months ago he could probably afford the light now 😂
Мне кажется плоские поудобнее если высота бокса ограничена, в леруа есть хорошие где-то по 100р.
I had same idea.Dollar Tree has 9w bulbs for $1 both cool and warm. I had the idea of cuttingtops offbulbs too.But if you are handy cut the bases off and wire everything together to save money on receptacles.
I love those ones you never know some people may not have any money I need to show them somewhere they can get by my first growers it with lightbulbs years ago that was fun thanks
They let you in without a mask 😱. Thank you very much for a video on this.
Only slaves wear masks for a fake plandemic
@@RichardKeysoftware Lol tinfoil hat
@@bananas7479 lol your a sheep 7 months a slave but for your its life
@@RichardKeysoftware slave lol if only you knew. I think you're smoking to much of the devil's lettuce 😂
@@bananas7479 enjoy your rDNA vax genius, gov loves people like you who DONT think for themselves.
I have bought several LED flood lights, waterproof, with 100-200 watts per fixture(actual draw about 85% of that) for $8-12 US watching the Amazon site and sorting through dozens of lights. Just ordered one today for $12.20, 20,000 lumens, 2800-3200k. This eliminates the fuss of wiring. I had a couple fixtures using many single bulbs like this video. Bulbs of ~9 watts cost about $1, but the based are about the same, so for $12.20, to get as many watts as the single 200 watt flood light, I would need to spend at least $20 using cheap parts. With the complete outdoor rated flood light, they are no exposed wires, and the cover is clear, non- diffusing. The only issue would be the need to hang a little higher to even out the coverage because the LEDs are mounted pretty tightly in a maybe 4 x 7 inch area. And it is non=dimmable, where you can take and add single bulbs in the array of many bulbs. I pretty much assume that 2700k, or 3000k will be the same whether mounted in the single large fixture or spread over 9 or 14 individual bulbs. I want to say that I have learned a whole lot by watching your videos, and by far, this is my favorite because it hits home. I live on a very limited budget, and could never afford a real quality grow light, or even the cheaper Chinese models flooding the market. I do say that you need to read the fine print on any light you buy, at least in the US. A light, or grow light labelled as 2000w may be anywhere from 175 watts used to maybe 600 watts. One brand's 100w may have more power than another brand's 1800W and be lower priced. Again, thank you for your service.
Would love to see you switch out to 3500k and 4000k snd 5500k. Love that this setup outperformed many budget lights
i have a setup of 14 5000k bulbs topps removed in two 7 way splitters from amazon..im averaging about 800-900 ppfd depending on height i set them at. at least if i calculated correctly..shane from migrow has a video on converting lux to ppfd and if i calculated correctly thats what i came up with.
Should I keep the 8-11cm distance between my leds and plants?
Shane you can get a mogul that has 8 mogul for the bulbs to screw in. And Fiet Electric grow bubs works great. I use em for seedling propagating chamber. And Fiet Electric has likeable 2 tune fixtures perfect for rack lighting and side lighting.
Thanks for this great contribution to the public good. A local shop is closing out 10w, 1100 Lumen bulbs for a buck in 2700 and. 5000K. I see you used 2700, which I understand would provide better photosynthesis. Should I throw in a couple 5000’s to provide more blue?
I modified a bunch of bulbs and experimented with this. Please be careful. The ones I used have exposed terminals on the board that have 120v on them. I’ve been using epoxy or liquid tape to insulate the terminals.
Are these Philips 13W 1521 lumen 2700K still the best cheap option for a DIY setup a year after the video release? I need lights for a one time shelve rack setup, I'm growing 60 citrus seedlings on three 100x60cm shelves, and I'm hoping I can get by with a cheap DIY soulution.
Wow very nice, You have an Blue eye and a Green eye!
So theoretically, you could just use a bulb splitter right? Like a 7way and mount it on the board too?
Thank you exactly what I was looking for!
Would it not be sensible to cover the sheet of ply in foil to make it reflective?
Flat white is more effective at reflecting light that aluminum foil. Shouldn't matter with the bulbs he is using as all the diodes are oriented downwards. However some bulbs have the smd mounted and various angles possibly benefiting from a reflector of a sort.
The tops just pop off with a bit of force u don't need to cut them 😂 great work love the videos
I did this two years ago and it worked great!
Never mind, you did it, super video thank you.
My neighbor lady grows greens for herself. She told me she was saving for some led's. I gave a similar set up. I used aluminum angle iron instead of plywood. Told her use this while your saving. See if you keep growing and and replace the homemade unit. She sees no need to upgrade. Now I get free spring char and kale.
Great idea demo but for the same money or less you can buy a budget LED fixture like a Vander. I think I paid under £60 for one which is, and has been working well so far. Happy to drop it off to you if you want to test it as a comparison 👍🏻
@@emissary_of_aldebaran I’m not knocking the idea at all. During lockdown I was going to build something similar but after buying bulbs, holders, wire etc it wasn’t far off the cost of a cheap LED panel.
They sell 7 way bulb splitters. Alot less work maybe not as big of a footprint but more intense light. Perfect for a single plant especially if you use different bulbs for veg and flower. I'd use 6 bulbs for veg and 7 bulbs for flower.
I'm using 4 x 100w 1600 lumen Philip's led that is capable of 6000 Kelvin each bulb... is that too much Kelvin? For any grow? Thx you
Would this be possible with GU10 fittings and bulbs ? Also would you be best using 2700k-3500k bulbs for flower and 6000k-6500k for the veg phase ? Cheers in advance
I’ve made my own boards using GU-10’s with 25 x 50w 4000k LED bulbs. I planted 45 Jalapeño seeds on 13 January. 40 germinated in 4 days. I’ve repotted them twice since (now 27 February). They are growing great, nice compact growth, flowers starting already.
They sell string lights that take 10 or 12 regular size bulbs at lowes and amazon. 23 watt high efficiency led GE lights in 5000k and 2700k for a good mix of spectrum. For 100 or so bucks on a 12 socket string, 23 watt lights will give you a 276 watt grow light thatll illuminate a 3x3 like a boss. This guy has some great ideas. I dig it
Ya effin' daisy!! I was literally just looking at the Woodies and Homebase websites to see what they had in the way of lights for this type of endeavor and then I found this videos. Fantastic, thanks for sharing!!!
Ive seen a few others do this. You made it fun and interesting for sure man! I appreciate the video.. we all do. Thank you Shane 😊
Send me links, please.. I haven't found much else
You should do it again with the new "core pro" bulbs and the big 23w e27. They have the biggest claimed efficiency
I used one or two 8w led bulbs I got from Dollar Tree last year to try and grow lettuce. It didn't go too well.
How far away should the light be from the top of the plants? is the 11cm a good distance?
They'll burn
Could a person get nearly the same efficacy using 5500 k spectrum lights instead of 2700 k
Is it smart to use the light over all periods of the plant? (Grow/bloom)
I've been thinking about doing this but on a larger scale - say 20 bulbs (Noma grow bulbs) place on boards to run up and down the sides of the plants with a few at the top as well. 800 PAR isn't great for growing hemp but with a crap load of bulbs ... :) They use about 7 Watts each so 20 bulbs would only be 140 watts. I was wondering about removing the bulbs, so this was helpful.
Hahaha when I removed the plastic filter from mine. Why didn't I think of a saw. No I used a screwdriver as a spear. Then man handled it off. Great video. I've done some of my own builds.
But now I have more respect for professionally made high quality lights.
Sir,you are a Legend!!!