Hi, Shane here. Thanks for watching, Please hit the like button and subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@MIGROLIGHT?sub_confirmation=1 Buy my Grow Lights here: migrolight.com/ Follow us on: Instagram:instagram.com/migrolight/ Facebook: facebook.com/MIGROLIGHT/ TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@migrolight
One thing I'd add, at lower humidity the plants will take up (& transpire) more water, if you are fertigating (adding nutes with the waterings) then the plants are also uptaking more nutrients as they cycle though the water & you may need to reduce feeding strength to avoid nutrient burn when you are growing at reduced humidity (RH below ~ 50% )
Protip: Don't use tap water in a humidifier if it doesn't have a filter. There's nothing like finding your grow space covered in a nice coat of powdered calcium.
I use to grow HPS only, no more however. I picked up this light and it is everything it says it is and more! My yeilds are bigger, buds are very tight, and trichromes look like frosting on the buds.. I purchased the timer as well, it all works like a charm. I use full power for 3 hours, them drop to 75% for 10 hours, then 50% for 3, them the light shuts of them I switch to my moonlight led for 8 hours... I have never seen my plants grow this fast, and this healthy.. Truly one amazing LED..
I've been growing for some years but I find myself straying from the basics sometimes and videos like this really help me just go back to how I usually do things I find your videos really useful I also would like to mention the senelux se 4000 I bought it but I had it boxed away but for a budget price light I found it amazing compared to the hps lights I used to use I've only used it during veg but the difference is amazing thicker stems and much bushier than I usually get from HP's also the nodes are much closer together because of the climate I'm in I do used HP's during flower with led just to help increase the temperature because I find the heater uses almost as much electric. Thanks 👍
For sure, I used to use a 400w HPS along with LED in winter time because it heat the house well and was way cheaper to run than my electric baseboard heaters.
Great video! One question and/or comment. I read years ago, and I got incredible results by following what I read, that keeping the grow room temperature as low as 68° is the best way to keep all of the extremely volatile terpenes accumulating on the buds and not taking flight. My hydroponic plants didn't smell much below 70 ° but the smell was impossible to contain at 75°, as quality decreased. I think a lot of commercial weed is grown for maximum yield and not for maximum terpene content.
I would worry that 70 F is too cold to promote good flower formation in the most critical time. I agree that the terps are much lower at 70F but that's a bit cold for plant growth. I think 75 F is a nice medium temp not to hot and not too cold. Even then I would want to run just a bit warmer for a while just to make sure the plant has the warmth it needs to reach the size I'm looking for the first few weeks of flower.. then gradually decrease the temps.
Hey Shane Your tip about covering the soil, I mulch with bark chips between veg and flower and find works really well. I do everything to reduce evaporation, at this point because it's no longer helpful. I also put my fabric pots in buckets, which reduces evaporation and allows me to switch to watering from the bottom up which also helps. Bluetooth hygrometer/thermometers of amazon helped me get to grips with this. Being able to see your readings as chart is so helpful. They'd be worthy of a video just so more people started using them. Thanks again, I mine your channel & DrMJ for info and always find the light. C-weed
Big respect as always MiGro. The channel of yours, and another big grow channel have gone from 5000 to 50,000 in literally 1 year of educational video. Keep up the great work, and professionalism.
VPD charts found on any image search, is key, to dialing in a grow room after you get the basics down. That and the 1200 ppm will really boost you to better yield, if your pH and EC levels are correct for your growth.
Struggling making change from HPS 2LED. keep getting hermie. I don't hve a light meter. But I'm running a scorpian Diab on 590 Watts with little room at canopy heights. Anyone else Hving probs with LED
Very good summary, and VPD is key to an optimum yield. As Shane says, the taller the plants the more humidity you'll need and therefore the more fans you'll have to put in the grow room as ventilation is paramount to avoid bud rot. Icmag forum has a very good thread by a very experienced grower named DJM if you are curious about that VPD and high humidity management.
I spray all my crops with a 20 litre applicator, once per 2 weeks, which is 0.25% hydrogen peroxide and it 100% kills all mold, doesn't harm them and has no effect on the finish.
I could listen to this guy talk all night - this is my husband’s account but lovely accent it reminds me of my grandma who was as “Irish as Paddy’s a pig”
Brilliantly done. Clear, clean and simple to understand. Thank you
2 года назад+1
you're the best growing teacher to me 👍 Since working with fluence led 's everything got complicated, but your lessons are a great helping hand. 💯👋 Also i do like your serious appearance a lot. Thanks a lot for a better understanding what I am doing. 🤗
You learn a lot from Shane - I have a 4 x 4 tent with CO2 control with a RAM controller and have it at 1200 ppm when flowering - had thrown away a load of cash on airbomz and it was useless - I'm lucky enough I don't have to worry about smell so only have extraction when lights off to get co2 back to background level - I have a humidity controller but had to stop using it because but it would wreck the compressor in my dehumidifier so I just use a monitor and adjust the control on the dehumidifier itself to adjust - main problem I have to drive 6 hrs to get 3 co2 cylinders filled 😥🤣 but at least I get 2 grows out of that...! Good luck anyway bud....! 😎👍
Plants enjoy anywhere between 68 and 77°. When they start flowering at the end put them down to 73 they will get bigger and more potent hydroponics water must be 65 to 68°, use an empty 12 oz bottle put it in the freezer if you have to keep it at that temperature
@@tristonherrera7144 plants can anticipate night time, so they can tell what time it is. Watch any time-lapse, plants will stretch before lights turn off for night time.
If you wrote "A Guide To Growlights For Dummies" I would certainly buy it. When you explain all this it starts making sense but for those new to growing with grow lights, this type of information may as well be Greek. My goal is to grow my food in the winter in my basement so that I don't have to heat a greenhouse or worry about snow load. Much gratitude for your advice and education with respect for your ability to teach others and your willingness to share what you know. I see your lights are on sale and am working on a budget as it seems like I will need quite a few to grow enough for two people assuming that if one can grow a plant to the flowering stage using LEDs, I could potentially grow vegetables or at least root vegetables this way. Still doing the math.
im using elevated co2 in a basement outside of the house. its not a closed system but it takes only a bit cold air from outside to climate, works great
So much useful information in this video! Now to find a way to put all this to good use. Thanks, especially for presenting everything in such an easy to understand form.
Im going to need a bigger room, ive got 4 plants and ive never had much luck but this year after watching some vids,(and especially after lowering my ph, adding coco coir to soil and watering LESS ive got some monsters , i also made the mistake of putting seedlings into tiny pots till they took off but they never took off in tiny pots , once i put them into their final container they went crazy.
This is what has driven me crazy, at 86f vpd chart says it should be about 70% humidity but I've read keep humidity during veg should be between 45 to 55%, your graph says 50% humidity during veg. Many other sites say keep humidity between 45 to 55% humidity during veg but that corresponds to a room temp of 68F. on a vpd chart. I run my tent at 78F and it stays on it's own around 55 to 60H.
Hi, names Austin, I’m looking at my plants closely everyday after work and I’ve pulled out 4 plants today and two a couple days ago because I spotted herme and male parts. I think that I might need a second opinion of these very early signs during week 2 of pre flower. From seed to current day they are 6 weeks and on 12/12 with no light leaks. I just put 2 into foam board under the pots/trays to avoid the cold from coming up into the pots. I know I’m jumping all over with this comment but I would love any info on the ventilation as well. Right now I have a 4x4x8 foot tent in flower and I have one exhaust blower directing the air outside and only have the bottom vent strip open. The humidity has been fluctuating from 50-60 % air temp is between 70-85… thanks for reading my message
O segredo é a manipulação adequada do fotoperíodo. Induzindo um dia com mais de 24 horas na floração, assim gera uma eficácia de mais 35 a 40% na produção do grow. Pode confiar! Trata-se do dia de 33 horas e 36 minutos. A quantidade de horas de luz tem que ser de 21h36m por dia, com 12 horas de escuro, totalizando as 33h36m. Isso faz com que em uma semana normal de 7 dias, no grow se passem só 5 dias. As plantas levarão mais tempo para ficarem prontas, pois 60 dias de floração continuam sendo 60 dias, só que agora com 33h36m e não 24h. Também há um pouco a mais de consumo de luz elétrica, porém o ganho de produção compensa.
LEDs are becoming so efficient. I had my biggest yield to date useing LEDs. I used the SP3000 in a 3×5 with 3 photos and hit 2.15 GPW. 645 grams dry. Only useing 300 watts. Thats around 20 watts per square foot. Bout to harvest the 4×4 useing the FC4800 and looks to be its gonna be about the same GPW. 30 watts per square foot. Crazy efficient thst I vegged the entire 4×4 at 50% 240 watts. Bumped it to 75% at flip. Week 3 90% and week 5 100%. For environmental conditions. I use a fan in the window to bring in fresh air from outside into the lung room. The exhaust fan brings in fresh air through bottom vents with a passive system. Chasing VPD is absolutely not necessary. Shane is spot on.
I'm flowering now in a 9x4 and ha humidity is on 73% and 25c n they are n flowering ..so these are good conditions...I'm running a mars hydro fce-4800 &a tsl-2000 n mi tent.
I think lower humidity would be better, especially near the end when the buds are fattest. Mold grows above 65%, in the center of the buds the humidity is higher. So i would go 40-50% humidity.
I have been watering my plants at night when the lights are off to avoid the high humidity. Watering in the morning and then turning on the lights was causing a steam bath.
You talked about covering the pots to reduce the humidity in the space due to evaporation. What are you talking about exactly? Like a fully inclosed plastic lid with a hole cut for the stalk or some sort of fabric?
I like a enclosed higher pressure rooms 2.5atm. Co2 around 3300ppm because the increased atmospheric pressure venting will happen once every three days. 81f 45% humidity day, 72f 60% at night for vegetative. Straight red,orange and yellow leds with multiple smaller metal halide for uv exposure .
Are you using the metal halide only as an UV supplement? That's a lot of wattage just for UV, unless you also need more light power I suggest use fluorescent UV bulbs, like reptile lights, they are just around 20,30 or 50 watts and they are more effective. Both UVB and UVA wavelengths. There are also specific UV grow lights, a bit more expensive though. Reptile lights are very useful and cheap.
As always awesome Shane. Big thanks. How about a video about average LED % adjustment through the growth cycle through to bloom to maximize rates with a 600 watt led fixture if you get my drift IE bloom obviously 100% but what about seedling is it 25% etc.
I'd think that Sativa strains would like more humidity since they come from closer to the equator while Indicas can tolerate dry air much better since they come from a drier climate to begin with. I have no scientific basis for this, just kinda what makes sense in my head. I like growing Afghani based strains and have never even bothered to increase the RH. It usually stays in the 50-60% range in my grow room.
@@ronmix39photosynthesis means the process of converting light into sugars, plants have stored sugars in their roots, you don't need photosynthesis to occur the exact moment it grows.
Migro send me a display to run a experiment on my channel. I know I’m no super power on social media but why don’t you guys give the little guys a chance to try out your products so we can evaluate them?
Thanks Shane. It seems the LEDs are moving in the desired direction, but gas guzzler accessories when electricity prices will double in the next 12 months may be an unaffordable luxury to the personal grower who has to suck it up. Seeds that companies claim are for cold and very cold climates, may grow faster than a warm climate plant in winter when temps are well outside the range you quoted. In northern Europe except periods in summer, humidity is easily controlled by leaving the tent opening either a lot or just enough to let fresh air in. If there is moisture of any kind on the inside of the tent, then it's too humid and a wider opening is required. It may be the case that bud rot is more common on photo periods than autos. it is likely that not only are the light off for 12 hours, but many will also reduce fan use, and autos run 24/7 and move through their cycle rapidly, which appears to minimise bud rot.
@@twentytwo138 Because the massive increase in wholesale energy prices will be passed on to the consumer. 30% increase in October, with another minimum 30% in April 2022
@@johnbaker5565 energy political power play at the moment is happening in europe, prices will not stay high for long, i hope. makes no sense to have new power pipelines just to get more expensive "power"
Great info. Thanks...I just hung my grow300 in my 2x4. And I just put in a order for the SpotOn par meter. This dude super smart and that's why I buy from migro.
Simple and to the point. My biggest bud did I just harvested yesterday had some bud rot right in the center of the biggest Cola so I cut it out I think I'm going to be okay
Amazing video as always Shane! Only question I have is, you listed 40-55% as being the optimal RH during veg. in your graph. But according to your VPD chart that’s way out of line. It should be 70-80% RH during veg. Other than that, all values, ranges and talking points I double checked and were spot on! :)
Very smooth and informative flow of knowledge. I had my lights too high by following manufacturer recommendation. Now I know I need to lower my light level due to light stress. Thank you.
if humidity outside and humidity inside the grow room are both high a dehumidifier would be necessary to keep the grow space from becoming a target for pests and disease.
you should do a video of a fully controlled grow compared to a non controlled grow to see how much extra you really get and is it worth the extra cost, i am guessing its not worth the cost. and if you use the same strains and the same lighting in both grows im guessing you will not get more than a couple ounces extra unless your using CO2 then you might get around 4 oz's is my guess. todays tip free cloning jel, buy an aloe plant and use the jell in the leaves as cloning jell and you will never lose a clone again. every time you need jell just cut off a little part of a leaf and it will heal itself. then use the jell in the cut portion. roll your stalk in it put into machine. within 5 days they will be ready for dirt sometimes 3 days.
3:35 interesting. So it’s better to keep the temp at 86 F even at 500 PPFD rather than having 1000 PPFD at a lower temperature below 77 F. (1000 PPFD at 86 F still being the optimal). So heat your tent up if below 80, before adding more lights and CO2?
Thank you for this excellent video. I'm trying to "dial in" my grow room and your info is very helpful. What sources of info are you using to make your recommendations? also, it seems you assume air movement (fans) but only discuss peripherally. Should air movement be considered one of the key environmental factors (for indoor grow)?
This is the information I received from Dr. Bugbee's videos: Foliar environment (above ground): Light: -(1000 umol photons / (m2 * s)) * (3600s / h) = (3.6 moles / (m2 * hour) -DLI = moles / (m2 * day) - PPFD * .0036 = moles / m2 * hour -60 DLI for full sun summer day. Cannabis can grow fine around 30 DLI. -64.8 DLI is 1500 PPFD for 12 hrs (near maximum) -43.2 DLI is 1000 PPFD for 12 hrs (3.6 moles / (m2 * hour) -30.0 DLI is 0694 PPFD for 12 hrs -30.0 DLI is 0462 PPFD for 18 hrs -Vegetative stage: 18-24 hrs/day -Flowering stage: 12 hrs/day -Plants increase 30-100% once flowering stage begins (use this to calculate making use of space). Temp*: -77-86° F Humidity*: -40-70% -Plant releases H2O into air. Wind*: -1 m/s. If leaves are moving slightly, that's good airflow. CO2*: -400ppm, which is adequate. -Plant absorbs CO2 from air. *Ventilation regulates this Root Zone environment (below ground): Temp: -77-86° F Nutrients: - N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium) - 20-10-20 - .6g per L - 1.3 EC reading in water runoff (electro conductivity meter) Oxygen: -Keep soil fluffy. Water: -Balance PH Soil Media: -50% Peat -50% Vermiculite (or Perlite, shredded wood, coco coir) -Dolomitic lime, 40g per cubic foot -Gypsum (CaSO4, Calcium Sulfate), 10g per cubic foot -3.5 pH Peat -> 4.5 pH with Vermiculite -> 5.5 pH with Dolomitic Lime (40g/cubic ft)
Margret I once (like 20 years ago) saw a pot plant that was about a foot high, but it had a trunk (can't call it a stem) that was about three inches thick at the base, because the guy trimmed the plant a lot and absolutely blasted it with high speed fans 24/7. I don't think anyone needs that, but plants sure can take a lot of wind and will develop accordingly. Just don't blast cuttings you are trying to root with fans.
Having proper air flow is very important imo. It can even out hot pockets of air and even your humidity out giving you a truer reading. Also, exchanging stale air for fresh keeps co2 levels at a constant level. All of those grains of sand will add up at to a mountain come harvest time in my experience.
Hi, about 200 to 250 µmols/m²/second for seedlings up to about 3 weeks old. You can then start increasing to about 500 µmols/m²/second for mid veg and 800 -900 µmols/m²/second for Flowering
I cant find anyone talking about where the air is being drawn from and to. Regarding hot and cold climates and different seasons. How to prevent rapid temp fluctuations from where you draw the air from. Is this not an issue to be talked about? People using hps in winter or no need?
My temps are around 20-24 deg C on average. They get down to 17-18 deg C at night, and, less often, up to 29-33 deg C on a hot day (in southern hemisphere, now moving into summer). If I were to do something to change the temperature, I wonder if I would benefit more from heating to increase the minimum temps, or from cooling to decrease the maximum temps? Maybe its not worth either?
Great video, again! I’m electing to do a CO2 grow because I’m limited to the number of plants I can have. Expanding my grow space would be illegal. I want high yields and big plants.
Hi mate. If the humidity rises in the lights off period while in harvest season should that be a concern if it’s up at about 60%? When lights turn on humidity is balanced at about 48-50%
Thank you very much for the knowledge, mister, you don't know how much I appreciate your videos. I will be a successful grower one day and I'll thank you for that as well. I send you a big hug, man, hope you are doing great
What is the best humidity and temperature for lights off, in flower and veg. I've been running my room at 77 degrees 43%rh during flower with lights on. I turn down the temperature to 74 degrees & 50rh
Great videos. I just bought a grow 200 to replace an old LED fixture. I went with that over a Mars product because I'm going to need to pump a lot of moisture into the air and the Mars product scared me.
Great video as always but in my case on hot days if I run the light at night time it means the plants are sleeping during the day so then it is even hotter outside. So it does not cool down when they are sleeping.(22-24°c) This is not a good thing right? Thanks
I guess I cannot bring up certain names or topics, but there is datalogging now for all this using a few brand of sensors (which I will not name but its coming out soon). The best yet is datalogging for your EC for your feedings from a company and innovative grower on youtube who I follow. You will see not only tent air factors being datalogged, but EC and feeding of your entire grow, so you can literally mimic another grower using this new technology about to become mainstream.
Can somebody tell me what is the actual light routine... Like how many days into the growing process do I add light? And how many weeks in do I increase/decrease
So with the lights, which is more important, the DLI or the PPF? I am running an 18/6 and am getting 40.6 DLI with 627 PPF. If I increase it to 800 PPF I have too hot of of environment and my DLI is too high. Thanks for the video. You really answered all of the questions I have been researching the answers to over the last 4 days in one video. I made sure to hit that subscribe button.
After 9 months and your comment not even being touched... I will comment. I think you are spot on with what I have found myself. If its too hot and DLI is too high then its time to turn it down a bit if you have a dimmer. Ten percent for sure down. 700 is a good number to shoot for maybe 650.
Can you do a par test on the slim 650s by optic led ? Thank you keep the videos coming I really like them they’re good and always really detailed, you always cover everything about everything with what you’re covering what light fixture
I keep hearing watts for LEDs, but are you talking equivalent, or actual wattage? I'm growing cannabis in a 4x3 tent. I wanted to make a diy light like you made. I want to have average 800 par like you were suggesting using LED bulbs. What bulbs should I use for veg and flower? I'm having a hard time producing dense buds. Thanks for all your help in the past!
Where i live, there are some "typical, annual irregularities" :) in weather patterns: a pretty oppressive high temp/humidity spell around late August, despite a lower rising sun; a brief cooler snap that precedes that late summer heat i mentioned; an early Fall high temp period that follows the first extended period of cooler Fall temps; a couple days of below avg Fall temps later, etc. I don't know that that's the rough pattern in the Tropics or Afghanistan, but i would think there are similar predictable fluctuations in any region. Have you ever considered what effects these things have? Have you ever replicated those conditions inside and compared results to a clone from the same mother grown under uniform conditions? I wonder if little bursts of stress have positive results. Thank you for the good information!
Different strands like different environments. You environmental conditions depend on where you live. Find a strand that’s works for your environment. It can be done.
Just a tip for all you first time/novice growers, one of the main problems I had was ph ing water mixing nutrients, The easiest way around this is to fertilize the soil with fully organic fert , not the watering feed. So if you start with an average compost from the garden centre and use blood bone and fish , with chicken manure pellets, and Westlands seaweed , all can be bought at the local garden centre. When you transfer the seedlings/cuttings , just put out a small shake of the above mentioned, on the surface , then just water throughout the whe cycle, you can't overfeed the plant right to the end, there is no need to flush, and the buds taste sweet, if you have ascess to rainwater all the better, but let tap water stand for 24 hours to leach the chlorine, this method is especially good for growing sativa/haze as they are especially sensitive to nutes, it takes all the guesswork out,! And the soil is fully reusable as it gets better with age, just got overdo it! And if you are gorilla growing find a place where nettles grow, as nettles only grow on the richest of soil, it has the perfect balance for growing Mary Jane! I love your videos Migro, they are well researched and packed with info, Happy growing all!
Letting chlorinated 'tap' water sit really does not lower or eliminate chlorine. It just settles to the bottom of the container. You must aerate the water with an aquarium pump and bubble stone. This only helps as a portion evaporates taking a tiny bit with the evaporated molecules. If you want a truly chlorine-free water, you MUST use an reverse-osmosis filter or add an offsetting chemical that has the opposite valence as chlorine. This is very similar to the way we increase or lower pH chemically. At a level of only 2ppm chlorine left to evaporate as suggested, it will take 4 to 6 days to reduce to a lower chlorine range and even then it WILL NOT be 'chlorine free'. The aeration process helps, too, but for immediate use one needs a good quality RO Filter. They are about $35-$45 in garden and pet shops where aquarium kit is sold. Letting it just sit is horse hockey - period.
@@timp8472 thanks for that but I can assure you all tap water will leach chlorine, over time .ever see people water their gardens with the hose pipe ? it's all about temperature! Over 18° and your good to go in 24 hours, this may not leach all the chlorine but it dosent have to, if it's safe for you then it's safe for plants, the soil Will do the rest, I have used hydrophobic systems and chlorinated water is better to use to avoid diseases like pyithium, a root born infection, The post was just to get bigginers off to an easy start, by the way it's a circulation pump you need if you want to speed up the process not an airstone, this can alter the ph especially if you are mixing tanks of nutes.
@@timp8472 I tested my tap water compared to my tap water that I left out for 2 days and the one I left out had a higher PH. Tap was 6.5 and the left out Tap was 7.3. Any reason why that is?
@@David-we3sb Ph changes because the contents of the water changed as in some elementsin the water off gassed, also the temp of the water can make PH swing.
Actually recent research shows cannabis continues to benefit past 2000 par, some strains more so than others but it is a promising sign for high intensity growing.
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One thing I'd add, at lower humidity the plants will take up (& transpire) more water, if you are fertigating (adding nutes with the waterings) then the plants are also uptaking more nutrients as they cycle though the water & you may need to reduce feeding strength to avoid nutrient burn when you are growing at reduced humidity (RH below ~ 50% )
True true!!
Always keep track of your pressure vapor deficit
@@hbhb8173 how does one even do that
@@freedompioneer4311 it’s literally the same as RH essentially
@@BotAimAJ Interesting
Protip: Don't use tap water in a humidifier if it doesn't have a filter. There's nothing like finding your grow space covered in a nice coat of powdered calcium.
Thanks for the tip. I Will definitely note that down✏🗒✅
Been there.
it depends on how your tap water is treated. Do they use chlorine or chloramine? If it's over 200 ppm you want to filter it before adding nutes.
Ahh I was wondering what that shit was.. Thanks.. 👍
Wow you have a non ultrasonic humidifier
I use to grow HPS only, no more however.
I picked up this light and it is everything it says it is and more!
My yeilds are bigger, buds are very tight, and trichromes look like frosting on the buds..
I purchased the timer as well, it all works like a charm.
I use full power for 3 hours, them drop to 75% for 10 hours, then 50% for 3, them the light shuts of them I switch to my moonlight led for 8 hours...
I have never seen my plants grow this fast, and this healthy..
Truly one amazing LED..
Why full power only 3 hrs please?
@@simongreenthumb6376it simulates mother nature- hottest part of the day.
I've been growing for some years but I find myself straying from the basics sometimes and videos like this really help me just go back to how I usually do things I find your videos really useful I also would like to mention the senelux se 4000 I bought it but I had it boxed away but for a budget price light I found it amazing compared to the hps lights I used to use I've only used it during veg but the difference is amazing thicker stems and much bushier than I usually get from HP's also the nodes are much closer together because of the climate I'm in I do used HP's during flower with led just to help increase the temperature because I find the heater uses almost as much electric. Thanks 👍
For sure, I used to use a 400w HPS along with LED in winter time because it heat the house well and was way cheaper to run than my electric baseboard heaters.
Great video! One question and/or comment. I read years ago, and I got incredible results by following what I read, that keeping the grow room temperature as low as 68° is the best way to keep all of the extremely volatile terpenes accumulating on the buds and not taking flight. My hydroponic plants didn't smell much below 70 ° but the smell was impossible to contain at 75°, as quality decreased. I think a lot of commercial weed is grown for maximum yield and not for maximum terpene content.
Thank you , for advice i will keep my grow at 20 now that its at the flowering stage.
I would worry that 70 F is too cold to promote good flower formation in the most critical time. I agree that the terps are much lower at 70F but that's a bit cold for plant growth. I think 75 F is a nice medium temp not to hot and not too cold. Even then I would want to run just a bit warmer for a while just to make sure the plant has the warmth it needs to reach the size I'm looking for the first few weeks of flower.. then gradually decrease the temps.
Weed grows in Afghanistan without insane heat and no water.. your making this a business to make silly product co2 don't need that
Hey Shane
Your tip about covering the soil, I mulch with bark chips between veg and flower and find works really well. I do everything to reduce evaporation, at this point because it's no longer helpful.
I also put my fabric pots in buckets, which reduces evaporation and allows me to switch to watering from the bottom up which also helps.
Bluetooth hygrometer/thermometers of amazon helped me get to grips with this. Being able to see your readings as chart is so helpful. They'd be worthy of a video just so more people started using them.
Thanks again, I mine your channel & DrMJ for info and always find the light.
C-weed
Id be carefully with mulch, it can raise the ph.
Big respect as always MiGro.
The channel of yours, and another big grow channel have gone from 5000 to 50,000 in literally 1 year of educational video.
Keep up the great work, and professionalism.
VPD charts found on any image search, is key, to dialing in a grow room after you get the basics down.
That and the 1200 ppm will really boost you to better yield, if your pH and EC levels are correct for your growth.
Pulse grow gave some very nice charts.
Very I’m important to know VPD charts are variable. Make sure your is applicable to your 💡 source.
@@thomasrogers7614 just get an LED already lol
Struggling making change from HPS 2LED. keep getting hermie.
I don't hve a light meter. But I'm running a scorpian Diab on 590 Watts with little room at canopy heights. Anyone else Hving probs with LED
Very good summary, and VPD is key to an optimum yield. As Shane says, the taller the plants the more humidity you'll need and therefore the more fans you'll have to put in the grow room as ventilation is paramount to avoid bud rot. Icmag forum has a very good thread by a very experienced grower named DJM if you are curious about that VPD and high humidity management.
Hey mate. What’s the forum dude?
I spray all my crops with a 20 litre applicator, once per 2 weeks, which is 0.25% hydrogen peroxide and it 100% kills all mold, doesn't harm them and has no effect on the finish.
@@AnnhilateTheNihilist he just told you bud. Icmag.
I could listen to this guy talk all night - this is my husband’s account but lovely accent it reminds me of my grandma who was as “Irish as Paddy’s a pig”
Brilliantly done. Clear, clean and simple to understand. Thank you
you're the best growing teacher to me 👍
Since working with fluence led 's everything got complicated, but your lessons are a great helping hand. 💯👋
Also i do like your serious appearance a lot.
Thanks a lot for a better understanding what I am doing. 🤗
You learn a lot from Shane - I have a 4 x 4 tent with CO2 control with a RAM controller and have it at 1200 ppm when flowering - had thrown away a load of cash on airbomz and it was useless - I'm lucky enough I don't have to worry about smell so only have extraction when lights off to get co2 back to background level - I have a humidity controller but had to stop using it because but it would wreck the compressor in my dehumidifier so I just use a monitor and adjust the control on the dehumidifier itself to adjust - main problem I have to drive 6 hrs to get 3 co2 cylinders filled 😥🤣 but at least I get 2 grows out of that...!
Good luck anyway bud....! 😎👍
Love your vids but would love to see more with Migro range and Migrow lights in various tents...They're beautiful impressive lights.
Your videos have helped me an immense amount. Love the content man, thank you for all that you do.
Plants enjoy anywhere between 68 and 77°. When they start flowering at the end put them down to 73 they will get bigger and more potent hydroponics water must be 65 to 68°, use an empty 12 oz bottle put it in the freezer if you have to keep it at that temperature
I could be wrong but I believe plants grow mostly at night (lights off).
The plant has no idea what time it is lol. You literally create it’s environment
@@tristonherrera7144 The plants react to day and night cycles and they do grow more during the dark periods.
It’s true. I do 14 and 10 some days and I see them grow much faster than 16 and 8
@@tristonherrera7144 plants can anticipate night time, so they can tell what time it is. Watch any time-lapse, plants will stretch before lights turn off for night time.
If you wrote "A Guide To Growlights For Dummies" I would certainly buy it. When you explain all this it starts making sense but for those new to growing with grow lights, this type of information may as well be Greek. My goal is to grow my food in the winter in my basement so that I don't have to heat a greenhouse or worry about snow load. Much gratitude for your advice and education with respect for your ability to teach others and your willingness to share what you know. I see your lights are on sale and am working on a budget as it seems like I will need quite a few to grow enough for two people assuming that if one can grow a plant to the flowering stage using LEDs, I could potentially grow vegetables or at least root vegetables this way. Still doing the math.
im using elevated co2 in a basement outside of the house. its not a closed system but it takes only a bit cold air from outside to climate, works great
So much useful information in this video! Now to find a way to put all this to good use.
Thanks, especially for presenting everything in such an easy to understand form.
Im going to need a bigger room, ive got 4 plants and ive never had much luck but this year after watching some vids,(and especially after lowering my ph, adding coco coir to soil and watering LESS ive got some monsters , i also made the mistake of putting seedlings into tiny pots till they took off but they never took off in tiny pots , once i put them into their final container they went crazy.
This is what has driven me crazy, at 86f vpd chart says it should be about 70% humidity but I've read keep humidity during veg should be between 45 to 55%, your graph says 50% humidity during veg. Many other sites say keep humidity between 45 to 55% humidity during veg but that corresponds to a room temp of 68F. on a vpd chart. I run my tent at 78F and it stays on it's own around 55 to 60H.
Hi, names Austin, I’m looking at my plants closely everyday after work and I’ve pulled out 4 plants today and two a couple days ago because I spotted herme and male parts. I think that I might need a second opinion of these very early signs during week 2 of pre flower. From seed to current day they are 6 weeks and on 12/12 with no light leaks. I just put 2 into foam board under the pots/trays to avoid the cold from coming up into the pots. I know I’m jumping all over with this comment but I
would love any info on the ventilation as well. Right now I have a 4x4x8 foot tent in flower and I have one exhaust blower directing the air outside and only have the bottom vent strip open. The humidity has been fluctuating from 50-60 % air temp is between 70-85… thanks for reading my message
O segredo é a manipulação adequada do fotoperíodo. Induzindo um dia com mais de 24 horas na floração, assim gera uma eficácia de mais 35 a 40% na produção do grow. Pode confiar! Trata-se do dia de 33 horas e 36 minutos. A quantidade de horas de luz tem que ser de 21h36m por dia, com 12 horas de escuro, totalizando as 33h36m. Isso faz com que em uma semana normal de 7 dias, no grow se passem só 5 dias. As plantas levarão mais tempo para ficarem prontas, pois 60 dias de floração continuam sendo 60 dias, só que agora com 33h36m e não 24h. Também há um pouco a mais de consumo de luz elétrica, porém o ganho de produção compensa.
LEDs are becoming so efficient. I had my biggest yield to date useing LEDs.
I used the SP3000 in a 3×5 with 3 photos and hit 2.15 GPW. 645 grams dry. Only useing 300 watts. Thats around 20 watts per square foot. Bout to harvest the 4×4 useing the FC4800 and looks to be its gonna be about the same GPW. 30 watts per square foot. Crazy efficient thst I vegged the entire 4×4 at 50% 240 watts. Bumped it to 75% at flip. Week 3 90% and week 5 100%.
For environmental conditions. I use a fan in the window to bring in fresh air from outside into the lung room. The exhaust fan brings in fresh air through bottom vents with a passive system.
Chasing VPD is absolutely not necessary. Shane is spot on.
What strain?
I'm flowering now in a 9x4 and ha humidity is on 73% and 25c n they are n flowering ..so these are good conditions...I'm running a mars hydro fce-4800 &a tsl-2000 n mi tent.
I think lower humidity would be better, especially near the end when the buds are fattest. Mold grows above 65%, in the center of the buds the humidity is higher. So i would go 40-50% humidity.
I have been watering my plants at night when the lights are off to avoid the high humidity. Watering in the morning and then turning on the lights was causing a steam bath.
This will cause mold. You don’t want your plant moist without a way of drying slowly.
You talked about covering the pots to reduce the humidity in the space due to evaporation. What are you talking about exactly? Like a fully inclosed plastic lid with a hole cut for the stalk or some sort of fabric?
I like a enclosed higher pressure rooms 2.5atm. Co2 around 3300ppm because the increased atmospheric pressure venting will happen once every three days. 81f 45% humidity day, 72f 60% at night for vegetative. Straight red,orange and yellow leds with multiple smaller metal halide for uv exposure .
Are you using the metal halide only as an UV supplement? That's a lot of wattage just for UV, unless you also need more light power
I suggest use fluorescent UV bulbs, like reptile lights, they are just around 20,30 or 50 watts and they are more effective. Both UVB and UVA wavelengths.
There are also specific UV grow lights, a bit more expensive though. Reptile lights are very useful and cheap.
As always awesome Shane. Big thanks. How about a video about average LED % adjustment through the growth cycle through to bloom to maximize rates with a 600 watt led fixture if you get my drift IE bloom obviously 100% but what about seedling is it 25% etc.
Excellent idea - I'd like to see this too 👍 Maybe also discuss the relationship between light distance to the pkant and light intensity.
Good idea, thanks. I will put it on the list👍
lumatek recommends for the 465/600w fixtures to go 50% for veg 75% early bloom and 100% late bloom.
The most important Shane!
medium:
50%vermiculite+50%peat :)
I'd think that Sativa strains would like more humidity since they come from closer to the equator while Indicas can tolerate dry air much better since they come from a drier climate to begin with. I have no scientific basis for this, just kinda what makes sense in my head. I like growing Afghani based strains and have never even bothered to increase the RH. It usually stays in the 50-60% range in my grow room.
From taking classes your spot on.
For the most part as long as your temps and vapor pressure deficit are in check you can bang out some healthy plants regardless of the cultivar
Wouldn't it be more of a hot, dry, less humid heat near the equator?
@@jramz2037 Nah, that's where the jungles are
Yes,butt 99%strains are hybrid
Great video Shane. The only thing I disagree with is that "Plants don't grow at night" . Yeah they do. But super minor detail.
No light, no synthesis.
@@ronmix39 The plant will store some of the energy and use it at night. A lot of growth happens in the dark cycle.
@@ronmix39photosynthesis means the process of converting light into sugars, plants have stored sugars in their roots, you don't need photosynthesis to occur the exact moment it grows.
Excellent video Shane when you can simplify the complex like that it becomes philosophy. Love from HPS land IRL
I use 1380 watts of led " 6 maxsisun mf2000 ".....2000 watts of hps and 1260 watts of cmh....for a total of 4640 watts over a 28 square foot garden...
Migro send me a display to run a experiment on my channel. I know I’m no super power on social media but why don’t you guys give the little guys a chance to try out your products so we can evaluate them?
one of the best channels on youtube for sure ! thanks for what you do !
Thanks Shane. It seems the LEDs are moving in the desired direction, but gas guzzler accessories when electricity prices will double in the next 12 months may be an unaffordable luxury to the personal grower who has to suck it up. Seeds that companies claim are for cold and very cold climates, may grow faster than a warm climate plant in winter when temps are well outside the range you quoted. In northern Europe except periods in summer, humidity is easily controlled by leaving the tent opening either a lot or just enough to let fresh air in. If there is moisture of any kind on the inside of the tent, then it's too humid and a wider opening is required.
It may be the case that bud rot is more common on photo periods than autos. it is likely that not only are the light off for 12 hours, but many will also reduce fan use, and autos run 24/7 and move through their cycle rapidly, which appears to minimise bud rot.
Why do you think electricity price will double in the next 12 months?
@@twentytwo138 Because the massive increase in wholesale energy prices will be passed on to the consumer. 30% increase in October, with another minimum 30% in April 2022
@@johnbaker5565 energy political power play at the moment is happening in europe, prices will not stay high for long, i hope. makes no sense to have new power pipelines just to get more expensive "power"
Great info. Thanks...I just hung my grow300 in my 2x4. And I just put in a order for the SpotOn par meter. This dude super smart and that's why I buy from migro.
Simple and to the point. My biggest bud did I just harvested yesterday had some bud rot right in the center of the biggest Cola so I cut it out I think I'm going to be okay
Amazing video as always Shane! Only question I have is, you listed 40-55% as being the optimal RH during veg. in your graph. But according to your VPD chart that’s way out of line. It should be 70-80% RH during veg. Other than that, all values, ranges and talking points I double checked and were spot on! :)
Thanks for pointing that out, the 40-55% be for flowering.
I would never run humidity above 50 % in flower that opens the door to molds and other issues.
Very smooth and informative flow of knowledge. I had my lights too high by following manufacturer recommendation. Now I know I need to lower my light level due to light stress.
Thank you.
if humidity outside and humidity inside the grow room are both high a dehumidifier would be necessary to keep the grow space from becoming a target for pests and disease.
you should do a video of a fully controlled grow compared to a non controlled grow to see how much extra you really get and is it worth the extra cost, i am guessing its not worth the cost. and if you use the same strains and the same lighting in both grows im guessing you will not get more than a couple ounces extra unless your using CO2 then you might get around 4 oz's is my guess.
todays tip free cloning jel, buy an aloe plant and use the jell in the leaves as cloning jell and you will never lose a clone again. every time you need jell just cut off a little part of a leaf and it will heal itself. then use the jell in the cut portion. roll your stalk in it put into machine. within 5 days they will be ready for dirt sometimes 3 days.
roll the cut part ?..do you cut the stem half way off too..vertical,not horizontal ? Put into dirt?
You dont think having a fully controlled environment would make any difference?
You'll help many growers with this helpful and very useful information. May you continue to share your knowledge with others.
3:35 interesting. So it’s better to keep the temp at 86 F even at 500 PPFD rather than having 1000 PPFD at a lower temperature below 77 F. (1000 PPFD at 86 F still being the optimal). So heat your tent up if below 80, before adding more lights and CO2?
Wish everyone have the chance to take a stepback. World will be Beautiful! ❤️
This is one of the most interesting things I’ve ever seen on RUclips, thank you so much for you knowledge G stay lit 🔥
Thank you for this excellent video. I'm trying to "dial in" my grow room and your info is very helpful. What sources of info are you using to make your recommendations? also, it seems you assume air movement (fans) but only discuss peripherally. Should air movement be considered one of the key environmental factors (for indoor grow)?
This is the information I received from Dr. Bugbee's videos:
Foliar environment (above ground):
Light:
-(1000 umol photons / (m2 * s)) * (3600s / h) = (3.6 moles / (m2 * hour)
-DLI = moles / (m2 * day)
- PPFD * .0036 = moles / m2 * hour
-60 DLI for full sun summer day. Cannabis can grow fine around 30 DLI.
-64.8 DLI is 1500 PPFD for 12 hrs (near maximum)
-43.2 DLI is 1000 PPFD for 12 hrs (3.6 moles / (m2 * hour)
-30.0 DLI is 0694 PPFD for 12 hrs
-30.0 DLI is 0462 PPFD for 18 hrs
-Vegetative stage: 18-24 hrs/day
-Flowering stage: 12 hrs/day
-Plants increase 30-100% once flowering stage begins (use this to calculate making use of space).
Temp*:
-77-86° F
Humidity*:
-40-70%
-Plant releases H2O into air.
Wind*:
-1 m/s. If leaves are moving slightly, that's good airflow.
CO2*:
-400ppm, which is adequate.
-Plant absorbs CO2 from air.
*Ventilation regulates this
Root Zone environment (below ground):
Temp:
-77-86° F
Nutrients:
- N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium)
- 20-10-20
- .6g per L
- 1.3 EC reading in water runoff (electro conductivity meter)
Oxygen:
-Keep soil fluffy.
Water:
-Balance PH
Soil Media:
-50% Peat
-50% Vermiculite (or Perlite, shredded wood, coco coir)
-Dolomitic lime, 40g per cubic foot
-Gypsum (CaSO4, Calcium Sulfate), 10g per cubic foot
-3.5 pH Peat -> 4.5 pH with Vermiculite -> 5.5 pH with Dolomitic Lime (40g/cubic ft)
@@David-we3sb Thank you! I will have to watch Dr. Bugbee's videos.
Margret I once (like 20 years ago) saw a pot plant that was about a foot high, but it had a trunk (can't call it a stem) that was about three inches thick at the base, because the guy trimmed the plant a lot and absolutely blasted it with high speed fans 24/7. I don't think anyone needs that, but plants sure can take a lot of wind and will develop accordingly. Just don't blast cuttings you are trying to root with fans.
Having proper air flow is very important imo. It can even out hot pockets of air and even your humidity out giving you a truer reading. Also, exchanging stale air for fresh keeps co2 levels at a constant level. All of those grains of sand will add up at to a mountain come harvest time in my experience.
@@Shabbymannen hell yeah the more wind the bigger buds... experienced growers know this
Hello Shane what ppfd range do you recommend from early veg (rooted clone) to late veg thanks 👍🏻
Hi, about 200 to 250 µmols/m²/second for seedlings up to about 3 weeks old. You can then start increasing to about 500 µmols/m²/second for mid veg and 800 -900 µmols/m²/second for Flowering
@@MIGROLIGHT Top man thanks a lot for reply mate 👍🏻👌🏻
Excellent information as always Shane, apart from using an upside down temperature VPD graph @10:29, this is a very useful video.
Hi, great video. When you say 800 Pars per square meter, at what distance from the light source? where in the plant?
I have to say you are awesome I really like all the knowledge you pass on for free thank you
you rock, shout out from New Hampshire USA
Really well explained a brilliant bloke and company thanks shane
This information will really help my hybrid elite genetics clone-only indoor stealth Tomato grow-op thrive.
If you want a good light go for the lumatek pro 600w i have 2 and they have grown some of the best plants
Love the video Shane! It has a very high end production feel.
Thanks for the vid. Learnt a lot. Just germination of Mimosa shot looking forward to sitting back relax like✌️
Try running a higher night temp then day temp plants get extremely thick
can you do a deep dive into this? PAR VPD RH and even maybe crop steering?
I cant find anyone talking about where the air is being drawn from and to. Regarding hot and cold climates and different seasons. How to prevent rapid temp fluctuations from where you draw the air from. Is this not an issue to be talked about? People using hps in winter or no need?
Support from Scotland ✊🏻🇮🇪
🏴💚
My temps are around 20-24 deg C on average. They get down to 17-18 deg C at night, and, less often, up to 29-33 deg C on a hot day (in southern hemisphere, now moving into summer). If I were to do something to change the temperature, I wonder if I would benefit more from heating to increase the minimum temps, or from cooling to decrease the maximum temps? Maybe its not worth either?
Great video, again! I’m electing to do a CO2 grow because I’m limited to the number of plants I can have. Expanding my grow space would be illegal. I want high yields and big plants.
F a plant count
@@Big_ol_bass F the plant count he says to the judge nervously…
Hi Shane, does the air temperature range apply to root temperature as well (especially in hydroponic systems)?
roots should be 65-75 degrees all times
Hi mate. If the humidity rises in the lights off period while in harvest season should that be a concern if it’s up at about 60%? When lights turn on humidity is balanced at about 48-50%
The vpd chart you showed was only for early vegitative growth. There are better charts that show the vpd at different stages of the plants life.
Thank you very much for the knowledge, mister, you don't know how much I appreciate your videos. I will be a successful grower one day and I'll thank you for that as well. I send you a big hug, man, hope you are doing great
What is the best humidity and temperature for lights off, in flower and veg. I've been running my room at 77 degrees 43%rh during flower with lights on. I turn down the temperature to 74 degrees & 50rh
Much of this disagrees with Bigsbee so I'm a bit dubious. Also, oddly unaware of dehumidifiers as an option.
Great videos. I just bought a grow 200 to replace an old LED fixture. I went with that over a Mars product because I'm going to need to pump a lot of moisture into the air and the Mars product scared me.
Where I live it's also cheaper on the hydro bill after 7:00 pm till like six am
Great video as always but in my case on hot days if I run the light at night time it means the plants are sleeping during the day so then it is even hotter outside. So it does not cool down when they are sleeping.(22-24°c) This is not a good thing right? Thanks
You do a excellent job on explaining the the details great video thank you for sharing your knowledge
In every photo the background looks deleted. Why. Was it intentional? Was it to hide what was in the sky ?
Cropsteering technology is going to make this even more awesome.
RUclips is erasing comments, as usual when you prove innovation and truth.
I guess I cannot bring up certain names or topics, but there is datalogging now for all this using a few brand of sensors (which I will not name but its coming out soon).
The best yet is datalogging for your EC for your feedings from a company and innovative grower on youtube who I follow. You will see not only tent air factors being datalogged, but EC and feeding of your entire grow, so you can literally mimic another grower using this new technology about to become mainstream.
Really appreciate your knowledge and sharing it
Nice shorts man. Thanks for another great video.
Can somebody tell me what is the actual light routine... Like how many days into the growing process do I add light? And how many weeks in do I increase/decrease
Thank you so much for all the hard work put on this video !!
Does the humidity level matter when the lights are off during flowering?
Kept it simple to the point, explained so clearly thank you!
I agree. One of his best.
Great stuff, as always. Thanks Shane. You da man.
So with the lights, which is more important, the DLI or the PPF? I am running an 18/6 and am getting 40.6 DLI with 627 PPF. If I increase it to 800 PPF I have too hot of of environment and my DLI is too high. Thanks for the video. You really answered all of the questions I have been researching the answers to over the last 4 days in one video. I made sure to hit that subscribe button.
After 9 months and your comment not even being touched... I will comment. I think you are spot on with what I have found myself. If its too hot and DLI is too high then its time to turn it down a bit if you have a dimmer. Ten percent for sure down. 700 is a good number to shoot for maybe 650.
Great information thank you very much! on my first grow here I'm going to put this new found knowledge to work!!
His vids generell quality always 10/10
Can you do a par test on the slim 650s by optic led ? Thank you keep the videos coming I really like them they’re good and always really detailed, you always cover everything about everything with what you’re covering what light fixture
I really enjoy learning from you . Thank you !
Hi shane, Dr bruce bugbee says even young plant not saturrated 1800 umol without co2 enrichment, why you say 1000 umol the best ppfd level ?
Leds have changed the grow room. I only need 200 watts in a 2x4 to reach good results.
I live on the coast and there's no air-conditioning in pretty much any of the houses. It makes it really difficult to keep the correct temp.
What do you think about the Luxx 645 & is the pro version better to use as a multi purpose light ?
I keep hearing watts for LEDs, but are you talking equivalent, or actual wattage? I'm growing cannabis in a 4x3 tent. I wanted to make a diy light like you made. I want to have average 800 par like you were suggesting using LED bulbs. What bulbs should I use for veg and flower? I'm having a hard time producing dense buds. Thanks for all your help in the past!
Can you not oversize a Co2 burner? Say for a 10 x 10 in a 4 X 8 tent and let whatever leak out.? How much does Co2 dissappear?
Any Co2 experts please.
Where i live, there are some "typical, annual irregularities" :) in weather patterns: a pretty oppressive high temp/humidity spell around late August, despite a lower rising sun; a brief cooler snap that precedes that late summer heat i mentioned; an early Fall high temp period that follows the first extended period of cooler Fall temps; a couple days of below avg Fall temps later, etc. I don't know that that's the rough pattern in the Tropics or Afghanistan, but i would think there are similar predictable fluctuations in any region. Have you ever considered what effects these things have? Have you ever replicated those conditions inside and compared results to a clone from the same mother grown under uniform conditions? I wonder if little bursts of stress have positive results.
Thank you for the good information!
If you're in an enriched co2 environment, would the chart for VPD remain the same?
When you say 82 degrees is that the room temperature or is that leaf surface temperature?
Different strands like different environments. You environmental conditions depend on where you live. Find a strand that’s works for your environment. It can be done.
Just a tip for all you first time/novice growers, one of the main problems I had was ph ing water mixing nutrients,
The easiest way around this is to fertilize the soil with fully organic fert , not the watering feed.
So if you start with an average compost from the garden centre and use blood bone and fish , with chicken manure pellets, and Westlands seaweed , all can be bought at the local garden centre.
When you transfer the seedlings/cuttings , just put out a small shake of the above mentioned, on the surface , then just water throughout the whe cycle, you can't overfeed the plant right to the end, there is no need to flush, and the buds taste sweet, if you have ascess to rainwater all the better, but let tap water stand for 24 hours to leach the chlorine, this method is especially good for growing sativa/haze as they are especially sensitive to nutes, it takes all the guesswork out,! And the soil is fully reusable as it gets better with age, just got overdo it!
And if you are gorilla growing find a place where nettles grow, as nettles only grow on the richest of soil, it has the perfect balance for growing Mary Jane!
I love your videos Migro, they are well researched and packed with info,
Happy growing all!
Letting chlorinated 'tap' water sit really does not lower or eliminate chlorine. It just settles to the bottom of the container. You must aerate the water with an aquarium pump and bubble stone. This only helps as a portion evaporates taking a tiny bit with the evaporated molecules. If you want a truly chlorine-free water, you MUST use an reverse-osmosis filter or add an offsetting chemical that has the opposite valence as chlorine. This is very similar to the way we increase or lower pH chemically. At a level of only 2ppm chlorine left to evaporate as suggested, it will take 4 to 6 days to reduce to a lower chlorine range and even then it WILL NOT be 'chlorine free'. The aeration process helps, too, but for immediate use one needs a good quality RO Filter. They are about $35-$45 in garden and pet shops where aquarium kit is sold. Letting it just sit is horse hockey - period.
@@timp8472 thanks for that but I can assure you all tap water will leach chlorine, over time .ever see people water their gardens with the hose pipe ? it's all about temperature! Over 18° and your good to go in 24 hours, this may not leach all the chlorine but it dosent have to, if it's safe for you then it's safe for plants, the soil Will do the rest, I have used hydrophobic systems and chlorinated water is better to use to avoid diseases like pyithium, a root born infection,
The post was just to get bigginers off to an easy start, by the way it's a circulation pump you need if you want to speed up the process not an airstone, this can alter the ph especially if you are mixing tanks of nutes.
@@timp8472 I tested my tap water compared to my tap water that I left out for 2 days and the one I left out had a higher PH. Tap was 6.5 and the left out Tap was 7.3. Any reason why that is?
@@David-we3sb Ph changes because the contents of the water changed as in some elementsin the water off gassed, also the temp of the water can make PH swing.
@@jakeo4557 hmm yes testing them both at same temperature would be better. I wonder what chemicals off gassed...
Very informative, love the charts and graphs. Well delivered also.
Actually recent research shows cannabis continues to benefit past 2000 par, some strains more so than others but it is a promising sign for high intensity growing.