Awesome job! I need to install deadbolts in two steel entry doors and after watching your video, I will be ordering this item. Thank you so much! Your instructions couldn't be any better!
This kit was perfect. Made it so much easier. Especially since the margin for error on this kind of project can be expensive. Highly recommend this product and this video if you need to add a deadbolt.
Awesome Guide, worked well with the kit too. Only difference with mine was it was a steel door with wood interior, so the routing part does not work with steel. I had to "magiver" that section with some drill holes, a diamond bit rotary tool, and a chisel. Took some work but the job still got done. Thanks for the help on the video!
Glad to hear! Yes, the wood bits don't do much against metal doors... And that's the tricky part. The metal and wood kits are not well marked so if a person doesn't know what to shop for, they usually end up with the wood kit because it's normally cheaper. Glad you were able to engineer a way around that! Thanks for the comment!
Be careful on some steel doors the wood is only near the location of the handle. If you go too high with the deadbolt you'll encounter foam directly behind the steel therefore have nothing to screw into when you route out the notch on the door edge. The location he installs it should be ok on almost all steel doors but up a few inches higher And you may encounter this problem as I did recently.
Thanks for this. I’ve been really nervous about attempting to put a deadbolt in my front door (French doors), but with that kit, I feel like I’ll be able to do it without messing anything up!
I've got the kit on order and hope to knock this out this weekend. I know it's a minor thing but should've tacked on 30 seconds to show the door frame plate install.
Good video. Just fyi, when you use the chisel, you use the other side. it is designed to sort of plane where you are cutting. If you use it the way you did, you run the risk of cutting too deep. Cheers.
Although the core is made of a different material, a door with a metal skin is often referred to as a “metal door.” This is a residential property, not Fort Knox.
@@mentallybrissybaby7295 I just LOL'ed. I was thinking the exact same thing. I live in NYC in a. Building and we (I assume it's standard for NYC?) are required to have fireproof steel Fort Knox style doors! @Fast Fix so if I get that kit 1(I'm very handy but for something like this I will definitely enlist the help of my boyfriend!) in the metal version that you mentioned in one of the other comment replies, I shouldn't have a problem with a "Fort Knox style, steel, fireproof door? Or do we need a different product?
Haha, definitely not the hottest music track, but you’re right. Gets the job done. Don’t we all have a beat running through our heads anyway? Thanks for the comment!
On my exterior metal door i broke the new 1/4 drill bit. I started slow but the hole saw wobbled. I had used the plastic template on as shown. I tryed again with a new 1/4 bit. But it wobbled again i tryed to go in reverse. It worked good. All the way threw. When cuting metal roofs i reverse the blade. I called 3 lumber yards all have a different idea. One guy said i need a diamond grit hole saw.
How thick is the metal? If it’s a fireproof door you’ll spend more time making the hole and could run into issues as you described. I’m curious, where did the drill bit fail? Was it the hole saw itself or the 1/4 inch drive shaft that failed? Also, make sure you’re using a bit that’s made to cut metal. That is very important. The wood bits will not work well if at all. As far as diamond bits go, no. You don’t need that. Overkill in my opinion. A metal rated bit should do the trick.
Nice video. You had no issues drilling straight through the door for the knob such as coming through on the other side? I know on wood doors I have to only drill half way through otherwise if I break through to the other side it will chip and look awful, so I'll go half way through then flip the door over and drill through on the other side.
On a wooden door, I’d do exactly as you did. However, with this metal door I didn’t worry as much. Also, the locking mechanism was bulky enough to cover up any damage that may have been caused my an exiting auger bit. Thanks for the comment!
I would think so. The gauge of the steel in your case the door will be thicker than a non-fire steel door so you’ll probably spend more time auguring through to make the hole. But, that should be the only difference. If you have concerns, call the manufacturer and make certain. Best of luck.
Great video. Thanks... I have residential fire rated door. Metal door with Styrofoam like material between metal sheets. My locksmith said it is not hollow metal door ?? I bought Schlage B660 deadbolt and he can't use squeeze play to install Schlage latch bolt. He put in a round drive in latch bolt. Is there any way to install my original latch with rectangular phase plate. There is not enough clearance between door edge and frame. Thanks again.
Hello. I’m sorry, I don’t have the expertise to either confirm or deny that possibility. I’d say if the locksmith couldn’t make it happen, it’s probably not gonna. Thanks for the question and excellent comment 👍
What did you use in the drill to trace cut the place where the plat would be notched was a a blade of some sort or did you use a drill bit to trace on the template?
For all metal doors, are the sides where the 1" hole needs to be made, not enclosed in metal? I have a fire door I need to install a deadbolt on, but I was afraid that the 1" hole side had metal as well
Hello. I’d check with the manufacturer if you can figure out who made the door. Fire doors may have differences that standard non-fire doors have. Or, go on the internet and investigate. I can’t imagine the door is entirely metal, but they may contain metal barriers inside for fire suppression. Let me know what you find out. Sorry if this wasn’t very helpful. I appreciate the question.
Good video. However my door is metal and the meter raps around to where you would drill for the one inch hole. So I'm not sure I'd be able to notch anything out for the plate?
Hello. In your situation, you’d need to remove the metal surface then notch the door out. This can be done with a dremel or similar cutting tool. Assuming there’s wood behind the metal. Some have insulation. 🤞 I’d consult with the manufacturer or a professional. Thanks for the question. Sorry I couldn’t have been more help.
Hi Kathy. If you watch this video to the end, the deadbolt video is linked. It’s the first video from the top. If you need to install the mortise joint click the second from the top. Titled “Mortise cut and strike plate installation.” Hope this helps!
Hello. There’s a link for that video at the end of this one. I believe I put the link in the comments as well. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
Hello. If you door is 100% metal, you must have one hell of a security measure ha ha ha. I don’t believe there would be any options if the complete metal door didn’t have these provisions preinstalled. I don’t think you can do much to modify them in order order to accommodate what you’re trying to do. Might just have to buy, unfortunately… don’t take my word for it however, I am no door expert. Might want to call a few local door, installers and get a professional opinion. Best of luck and thanks for the question and comment!
Hello. If trying to modify a door that is 100% steel, I would imagine this would be a very large task. I simply don’t have the knowledge to answer this question in any good way so I would call a local door guy and see what they would recommend. Sorry I couldn’t be much help. I hope you get it figured out!
Hello. I’d say maybe. It would dull out pretty quick. I’d say you might get one use out of the bit if it worked at all. I’ve never tried, so let us know if that’s what you end up doing. Thanks
You’ll need to fill in the screw holes or use larger ones. Some people stuff tooth picks into them and that seems to work. I’ve never done that, but if it works, let me know.
@Fast Fix I used longer wood screws on both the plate ok the door side and frame side but for some reason they weren't fully flush so the screw-end's slide against eachother a bit. Luckily door still closes. I just put some lube there to help the situation and hopefully the issue is resolved after this. P.S it's winter here in Toronto so the cold may place a factor in all of this Thanks for the help
You sure that's a metal door? Seems like wood to me? My metal door is as you described, 1 layer of metal, some sort of styrofoam, and then another layer of metal. I'm having trouble chiseling a strike plate for the lockset because the side of the door is also layered with metal!
Hi there. Yes, this is a metal door. Perhaps I should’ve called it a layered metal door, but I think calling it a metal door adequately describes it assuming most don’t think a residential metal door will be constructed with solid metal. Those are found on industrial buildings and high security buildings. If you’ve got a metal side frame you’ll need to use a cutting tool like a Dremel to cut through. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips thanks for your reply! so it's taken me 3 days to cut through the metal layer lol. i've finally dug out the 2 1/8" hole and the 1" side hole. however, now i'm having trouble chiseling out for the strike plate due to the metal side frame. could you be a little more specific which Dremel tool I would need? rotary or oscillating? which drill bit?
I’m surprised how little people know about doors and the assumptions they make. This door has metal skin. The entire door is not a billet piece of metal. That would be insane and reserved for bank vaults. So, when I say metal door it refers to its skin. I thought this was common knowledge, but clearly I was mistaken….
@@FastFixRUclips The general perception of a metal door is one where the door is either solid metal or a metal frame with glass or something else in between. So, yes, a lot of people really don't kmow whats inside the door and definitely not by looking at it. That door in the video, I can only see wood other than the hinges and mechanisms. Thanks for pointing at it.
Can you just put the jig over the hole from the doorknob to see which measurement to use? There’s only 2 options. And why take out the bolt on the doorknob? It’s not in the way. Seems like extra work for nothing.
I’m stuck because everything is metal , from door too the hole the lock goes in .. and what makes it worse is that the hole is not level with the lock ... so basically the hole is higher than the lock ... but the hole part is metal .. so I’m stuck
Interesting... I made this video was for common domestic metal skinned doors. If your door is solid metal and the jab is also metal, this procedure won’t work. I’d almost venture to guess that a mortise and tenon joint like this would be very hard to create in an all-metal application such as yours. I’d think a slide lock or latch lock would be more applicable for your situation. Sorry, I don’t have a better answer for you.
The very fact that you know about the router bit negates your argument that I didn’t tell you about it. Of course I did. I mentioned it in the intro. Maybe you skipped that part. Then I explained how to use it later. Maybe you skipped that too. The router bit came with the kit. There’s not much else to say. Hope this clears things up.
Correct. Using the term “metal door” is used to describe doors with metal skin. Not to describe a door made of solid metal. Hope this clears things up.
Хобби
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Awesome job! I need to install deadbolts in two steel entry doors and after watching your video, I will be ordering this item. Thank you so much! Your instructions couldn't be any better!
You are welcome! Best of luck!
This kit was perfect. Made it so much easier. Especially since the margin for error on this kind of project can be expensive. Highly recommend this product and this video if you need to add a deadbolt.
Thanks for the endorsement, Steve! Much appreciated!
Awesome Guide, worked well with the kit too. Only difference with mine was it was a steel door with wood interior, so the routing part does not work with steel. I had to "magiver" that section with some drill holes, a diamond bit rotary tool, and a chisel. Took some work but the job still got done. Thanks for the help on the video!
Glad to hear! Yes, the wood bits don't do much against metal doors... And that's the tricky part. The metal and wood kits are not well marked so if a person doesn't know what to shop for, they usually end up with the wood kit because it's normally cheaper. Glad you were able to engineer a way around that! Thanks for the comment!
Be careful on some steel doors the wood is only near the location of the handle. If you go too high with the deadbolt you'll encounter foam directly behind the steel therefore have nothing to screw into when you route out the notch on the door edge. The location he installs it should be ok on almost all steel doors but up a few inches higher And you may encounter this problem as I did recently.
Great point! Thanks for sharing that. 👍👍👍
My door doesnt have any wood anywhere....how do I chisel out the steel? GRinder?
How can you test for this before starting work? Small starter drill bit to see if you hit wood?
How did you fix this?
Thanks for this. I’ve been really nervous about attempting to put a deadbolt in my front door (French doors), but with that kit, I feel like I’ll be able to do it without messing anything up!
You’re welcome. Best of luck with your project!
I've got the kit on order and hope to knock this out this weekend. I know it's a minor thing but should've tacked on 30 seconds to show the door frame plate install.
Hey Steven! I linked the video of the strike plate installation at the end of the video. Best of luck with your install!
Thanks. I'm moving into a new house in April and want to install new locks and a deadbolt. This will save me $$ which I'm a huge fan of :)
No prob! Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for a great video! The Irwin Door Lock installation kit was really helpful. I'm not very skilled with the chisel, but I got 'er dun!
Awesome! Nice job 👍
Great tutorial. Thanks!
You bet! 👍
Good video. Just fyi, when you use the chisel, you use the other side. it is designed to sort of plane where you are cutting. If you use it the way you did, you run the risk of cutting too deep. Cheers.
Yes, good point. Thanks!
It worked! I did the job per your video! Thanks
Excellent! And you’re welcome!
Great video, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great clip-Step by step . Thanks
Like& Shared
Much appreciated!
Perfect. Thanks for the tips.
You bet! I appreciate the comment 👍
I've never seen a metal door made out of wood before
Although the core is made of a different material, a door with a metal skin is often referred to as a “metal door.” This is a residential property, not Fort Knox.
I was thinking the same thing my door is literally made from metal/steal ... I live in NYC so I guess it kinda like Fort Knox
@@mentallybrissybaby7295 I just LOL'ed. I was thinking the exact same thing. I live in NYC in a. Building and we (I assume it's standard for NYC?) are required to have fireproof steel Fort Knox style doors!
@Fast Fix so if I get that kit 1(I'm very handy but for something like this I will definitely enlist the help of my boyfriend!) in the metal version that you mentioned in one of the other comment replies, I shouldn't have a problem with a "Fort Knox style, steel, fireproof door? Or do we need a different product?
I like that the door handle was on the wrong way buddy needs to flip it always pointing towards the hinges
Why put a metal door to a house made of paper?
Thanks for posting this!! May not be the hottest music video but trust me videos like this carry people a lot further
Haha, definitely not the hottest music track, but you’re right. Gets the job done. Don’t we all have a beat running through our heads anyway? Thanks for the comment!
Good video dude. Love it!
You’re welcome! I appreciate the comment 👍
On my exterior metal door i broke the new 1/4 drill bit.
I started slow but the hole saw wobbled.
I had used the plastic template on as shown. I tryed again with a new 1/4 bit. But it wobbled again i tryed to go in reverse. It worked good. All the way threw.
When cuting metal roofs i reverse the blade.
I called 3 lumber yards all have a different idea. One guy said i need a diamond grit hole saw.
How thick is the metal? If it’s a fireproof door you’ll spend more time making the hole and could run into issues as you described. I’m curious, where did the drill bit fail? Was it the hole saw itself or the 1/4 inch drive shaft that failed? Also, make sure you’re using a bit that’s made to cut metal. That is very important. The wood bits will not work well if at all. As far as diamond bits go, no. You don’t need that. Overkill in my opinion. A metal rated bit should do the trick.
Nice video. You had no issues drilling straight through the door for the knob such as coming through on the other side? I know on wood doors I have to only drill half way through otherwise if I break through to the other side it will chip and look awful, so I'll go half way through then flip the door over and drill through on the other side.
On a wooden door, I’d do exactly as you did. However, with this metal door I didn’t worry as much. Also, the locking mechanism was bulky enough to cover up any damage that may have been caused my an exiting auger bit. Thanks for the comment!
Great vid, thank you!
You’re welcome!
great job,i would have drilled halfway and drill from the other side,this will prevent any wood splicing on the other side
Great advice! Had it been a wooden door I would’ve done that for sure. 👍
My door is steel also it’s rated for 1 1/2 fire can I use this method to install a second lock?
I would think so. The gauge of the steel in your case the door will be thicker than a non-fire steel door so you’ll probably spend more time auguring through to make the hole. But, that should be the only difference. If you have concerns, call the manufacturer and make certain. Best of luck.
Thanks Man.. good information...
You’re welcome 👍
Great video. Thanks... I have residential fire rated door. Metal door with Styrofoam like material between metal sheets. My locksmith said it is not hollow metal door ?? I bought Schlage B660 deadbolt and he can't use squeeze play to install Schlage latch bolt. He put in a round drive in latch bolt. Is there any way to install my original latch with rectangular phase plate. There is not enough clearance between door edge and frame. Thanks again.
Hello. I’m sorry, I don’t have the expertise to either confirm or deny that possibility. I’d say if the locksmith couldn’t make it happen, it’s probably not gonna. Thanks for the question and excellent comment 👍
Great video. Subbed.
Thank you! Much appreciated 👍
Awesome video..thank you so much
You’re welcome! I appreciate the comment
@@FastFixRUclips is that kit available anywhere other than online..is there somewhere I can get it..
What did you use in the drill to trace cut the place where the plat would be notched was a a blade of some sort or did you use a drill bit to trace on the template?
Hello. The drill bit you’re referring to was included in the kit I mentioned in the video. It’s called a router bit. Thanks for the question!
For all metal doors, are the sides where the 1" hole needs to be made, not enclosed in metal? I have a fire door I need to install a deadbolt on, but I was afraid that the 1" hole side had metal as well
Hello. I’d check with the manufacturer if you can figure out who made the door. Fire doors may have differences that standard non-fire doors have. Or, go on the internet and investigate. I can’t imagine the door is entirely metal, but they may contain metal barriers inside for fire suppression. Let me know what you find out. Sorry if this wasn’t very helpful. I appreciate the question.
What about the hole in the door frame?
Hello. I linked that video at the end. Thanks.
Thank you this saved me a couple of hundred of dollars in hiring someone.
That’s fantastic! Glad this helped you save some money 👍
Good video. However my door is metal and the meter raps around to where you would drill for the one inch hole. So I'm not sure I'd be able to notch anything out for the plate?
Hello. In your situation, you’d need to remove the metal surface then notch the door out. This can be done with a dremel or similar cutting tool. Assuming there’s wood behind the metal. Some have insulation. 🤞 I’d consult with the manufacturer or a professional. Thanks for the question. Sorry I couldn’t have been more help.
@@FastFixRUclips thank you
I need to drill a hole and align it to the strike plate Are u able to use this jig to align to the strike plate?
Hello. No unfortunately not, but I linked a video at the end of this one where I install the strike plate. It’s very simple!
Here’s a link to the video: Mortise Cut Made Easy ruclips.net/video/_JrqF7TYTOI/видео.html
Blueoyster5 thanks
Bro doing this at night is a such a power move. He knows he can figure it out without leaving his door compromised throughout the night… electric.
Hahaha, yep! Plus, there's plenty of home defense mechanisms at arm's reach. Thanks for commenting!
Where is the other video to see the installation of the deadbolt I can't find it!
Hi Kathy. If you watch this video to the end, the deadbolt video is linked. It’s the first video from the top. If you need to install the mortise joint click the second from the top. Titled “Mortise cut and strike plate installation.” Hope this helps!
Awesome tutorial thanks!
Sure thing! Glad it helped
What about the frame side where the bolt goes in to?
Hello. There’s a link for that video at the end of this one. I believe I put the link in the comments as well. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
is a 19volt Craftsman Portable drill enough to drill through a steel door? You never mentioned what volts your drill was
Hello. yes, that should do it. As long as your battery is good, your craftsman will do the job. The drill i used was 18vokts
What about the frame where the dead bolt lock into?
Yes, that video is linked at the end of this video and in the description.
ok but how do you carve when the wooded part of the door is all metal???
Hello. If you door is 100% metal, you must have one hell of a security measure ha ha ha. I don’t believe there would be any options if the complete metal door didn’t have these provisions preinstalled. I don’t think you can do much to modify them in order order to accommodate what you’re trying to do. Might just have to buy, unfortunately… don’t take my word for it however, I am no door expert. Might want to call a few local door, installers and get a professional opinion. Best of luck and thanks for the question and comment!
What about enlargening a hole in a steel door. Ie. no drill bit guide
Hello. If trying to modify a door that is 100% steel, I would imagine this would be a very large task. I simply don’t have the knowledge to answer this question in any good way so I would call a local door guy and see what they would recommend. Sorry I couldn’t be much help. I hope you get it figured out!
Where are the joining videos? I can’t seem to find the link.
Hello. The video is linked at the end. Here’s a link: ruclips.net/video/_JrqF7TYTOI/видео.html
Can you use a wood bit for it?
Hello. I’d say maybe. It would dull out pretty quick. I’d say you might get one use out of the bit if it worked at all. I’ve never tried, so let us know if that’s what you end up doing. Thanks
@@FastFixRUclips gee thanx. I tried before ur reply. I gave up after about 10 mins
What happens if the plate isn't stating in place due to the screw holes being enlarged over time
How would I fix that
You’ll need to fill in the screw holes or use larger ones. Some people stuff tooth picks into them and that seems to work. I’ve never done that, but if it works, let me know.
@Fast Fix I used longer wood screws on both the plate ok the door side and frame side but for some reason they weren't fully flush so the screw-end's slide against eachother a bit. Luckily door still closes. I just put some lube there to help the situation and hopefully the issue is resolved after this.
P.S it's winter here in Toronto so the cold may place a factor in all of this
Thanks for the help
How much does something like this typically cost if I got a handyman to do it for me?
Hello! I can’t say I know as I have never paid some one to do this job. I’d guess at $100-$150 depending…
Thanks for the great videos...the worst part is buying the parts‼️😂😂
Hah, no doubt!
Isn't there a step that involves the hole in the frame?
Yes, the video for that is linked at the end.
Need to show how to install deadbolt in a pease metal door. The one you installed in was a benchmark door. Pease doors don’t have the wood showing
Maybe some day…
You sure that's a metal door? Seems like wood to me? My metal door is as you described, 1 layer of metal, some sort of styrofoam, and then another layer of metal. I'm having trouble chiseling a strike plate for the lockset because the side of the door is also layered with metal!
Hi there. Yes, this is a metal door. Perhaps I should’ve called it a layered metal door, but I think calling it a metal door adequately describes it assuming most don’t think a residential metal door will be constructed with solid metal. Those are found on industrial buildings and high security buildings.
If you’ve got a metal side frame you’ll need to use a cutting tool like a Dremel to cut through. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips thanks for your reply! so it's taken me 3 days to cut through the metal layer lol. i've finally dug out the 2 1/8" hole and the 1" side hole. however, now i'm having trouble chiseling out for the strike plate due to the metal side frame. could you be a little more specific which Dremel tool I would need? rotary or oscillating? which drill bit?
@@roadracerdave7645 I'm also curious about this. My garage door is metal on the side, and so I can't chisle out as describe. How did you manage?
Is that made from a steel oak tree?
It’s not a bank vault. It surprises me how uneducated some are on wood vs steel skinned doors. It’s not rocket science.
Does the door look metal ?
I’m surprised how little people know about doors and the assumptions they make. This door has metal skin. The entire door is not a billet piece of metal. That would be insane and reserved for bank vaults. So, when I say metal door it refers to its skin. I thought this was common knowledge, but clearly I was mistaken….
@@FastFixRUclips The general perception of a metal door is one where the door is either solid metal or a metal frame with glass or something else in between. So, yes, a lot of people really don't kmow whats inside the door and definitely not by looking at it. That door in the video, I can only see wood other than the hinges and mechanisms. Thanks for pointing at it.
What about the jam side?
I linked the jam side at the end of the video and I believe in the description. If you can’t find it, I’ll send you a link.
@@FastFixRUclips I see a link for the kit but not for the jam. Thank you.
Okay, here’s the link:
Mortise Cut Made Easy
ruclips.net/video/_JrqF7TYTOI/видео.html
@@FastFixRUclips awesome! Thank you for your fast response.
@@TheBluegrassandBeyond You're welcome!
Can you just put the jig over the hole from the doorknob to see which measurement to use? There’s only 2 options. And why take out the bolt on the doorknob? It’s not in the way. Seems like extra work for nothing.
I was changing out the bolt so made sense for this application 👍
I’m stuck because everything is metal , from door too the hole the lock goes in .. and what makes it worse is that the hole is not level with the lock ... so basically the hole is higher than the lock ... but the hole part is metal .. so I’m stuck
Interesting... I made this video was for common domestic metal skinned doors. If your door is solid metal and the jab is also metal, this procedure won’t work. I’d almost venture to guess that a mortise and tenon joint like this would be very hard to create in an all-metal application such as yours. I’d think a slide lock or latch lock would be more applicable for your situation. Sorry, I don’t have a better answer for you.
@@FastFixRUclips thanks brother !
He should have showed doing the location on the frame side
Hello. I linked a video at the end of this one which shows the work on the frame side
You put your door handle on backwards at the end.
Lol, I did! Didn’t think anyone would catch that. Nice spot!
Did you fix it after?
Kieran Bricker yes, it’s an easy adjustment.
😂
Good video, How long before you noticed that you put the door handle on wrong lol
Honestly, my wife told me. I’d have let that go for several days I’m sure. Hahaha 🤦🏼
I looked through the comments to see if someone beat me to it! haha
Is that metal door???
The skin is metal. Interior is foam/wood.
Steel+wood+steel door to go through? You're in a wrong house mate...
I’ve thought that for a long time. Alas, I’m pinned down by an oath I gave in front of a holy man and a large crowd of people. It ain’t right...
This old house , how to install a deadbolt..utube
🤣🤣😁
You didnt show us or Tell us about that ROUTER BIT THAT YOU USED ON YOUR DRILL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, What was that??????
The very fact that you know about the router bit negates your argument that I didn’t tell you about it. Of course I did. I mentioned it in the intro. Maybe you skipped that part. Then I explained how to use it later. Maybe you skipped that too. The router bit came with the kit. There’s not much else to say. Hope this clears things up.
Thank you for mentioning the tool kit for the install....
No problem 👍
You put your doorknob back on backwards
Yep, I did. Luckily it was an easy fix 👍
With due respect..the title said "on metal door" so its a scam/ a lie ?"
No, the door has a metal skin. That was the intent. Of course, not solid metal.
U forgot to show the other end lol
What do you mean?
@@FastFixRUclips never mind. It’s in ur other video. And u knew what I meant. 🙄
Haha, you’re right. I did know what you meant and I’m glad you found the other video. I love your movies!
@@FastFixRUclips lol I hope to be as successful as u someday. Aye, subscribe pleassssseeeeeeee
@@MelissaOhh subbed! Nice chatting with you!
You say nothing about the other half of the job, the strike plate.
Hello. The strike plate video is linked in the description and also appears at the end of this video in a clickable link. Hope that helps!
???? Metal door
Correct. Using the term “metal door” is used to describe doors with metal skin. Not to describe a door made of solid metal. Hope this clears things up.
@@FastFixRUclips I am aware of that but that video shows a door made out of wood no metal skin
Hey there. Please look again. The skin is indeed made of metal. Albeit thin metal. The interior is foam...maybe hard to see on film.
It helps with credibility if you reinstall the door knob the correct way/orientation.
Probably wouldn’t hurt, but I’d say the 65k views does more for credibility.
You don't need that specialized gimmick toolset.
I agree, but I wouldn’t called it a gimmick. It really does work and helps the inexperienced to do the job without the fear of messing it up.