I've seen several videos demonstrating this tool, but yours was the first that showed how to use the strike plate locator. You have no idea how much time and effort and frustration you just saved me from! Thanks.
Something about going through the other side. First side went relatively well for me, second side gave me trouble, the bit came loose from the chuck because I had reversed the drill to back out the saw, once I got it adjusted, it caught really hard and fast and jerked my arm/elbow down with the drill really hard. I had to get my husband to finish getting it out. I'm inexperienced with drills and this was my first time using this tool so I'm sure it was user error but it did work. He might have some door repairs to do after that faux pas. I intentionally did this before I sand, prime and paint the door in case I damaged the door during this process. It's an old door, not sure how old, but it's solid wood. I had to repair the holes the previous homeowners put in it with Elmer's wood epoxy 2 part system. I've seen carpenters use Bondo for this but went with a product designed for wood to hopefully ensure a better, long-term finish. Anyway, sorry for being unnecessarily long-winded. Hopefully someone finds my comment useful. I only came back to the video for other comments because we can't get the 1 in hole saw off and I need suggestions 😬
Maybe should of edited that out or showed why you should flip it once you drilled half way through. Highly encourage everyone to use the template on both sides to avoid that type of issue.
I've had one of these kits for several years myself and love it! I use it all the time! Just one thing I learned very early on with this kit or ANY other brand... I only use the kit to get my holes started, then remove it. Why? Because the bits get HOT and they will melt the plastic! You don't really NEED to leave the kit attached once you get your pilot holes started. It's saved me from having to replace the plastic kit all the time. Just a trick I learned. Oh, and I sure hope this was not a customer's door since your second side got a nice mark from when your hole saw rode across it. Don't worry, I've done that a time or two but not in several years since I taught myself little tricks to avoid it. I can't afford to replace a customer's door because of MY mistakes. Anyway, nice video! Just thought I'd throw in the fact that it's best to just get your initial drill pilot holes started THEN REMOVE THE KIT. You'll avoid melting it from the hot hole saws.
That's a good idea. I appreciate the feedback. And, no it wasn't a customer door. It was my own. I was able to just fill it with wood filler and sand it down.
When I am drilling a door face I use painters tape or masking tape on the wood surfaces which minimizes the risk of splintering or scuffing the surfaces such as what occurred on the backside of the door/knob hole. I also spray the edges of my hole saws with silicone spray which helps to cut friction and slide through the wood easier. I do this on my table and chop saw blades as well.
Nice video. Just what I needed to cut my doorknob hole. Keep up the good work. Your subscribers will grow fast because you’re great at explaining and showing other angles others wouldn’t think about. Good luck.
Very nice video thank you for your excellent advise. I went ahead and purchased the Ryobi door knob installation jig which made re-drilling the main 2 1/8" holes very easy. The original holes were made with drill bits requiring all 4 to be re-drilled. Drilling the new holes was easy and very accurate and time saving. Unfortunately, I could not figure out how to use the strike locator which is not indented like the one on your jig. Other than the strike locator the jig works great.
So essentially you only need the auto strike locator if there is already a strike plate on the jamb? I've got to make a new hole for the strike plate. Thanks for the video, just what I needed!
The locator can also be used if you need to cut a new strike plate. Once you have installation kit set to the location you want on the door, you can then use the locator to determine where the strike plate needs to be on the door jamb. So you don't necessarily need to have the strike plate on the jamb cut first.
Since you're setting a new strike plate as well, it may make sense to pick a basic location and set the strike plate in the jam first. That way, you're able to use the auto locate jig effectively. I've found that using it without the plate in place still gives you a general idea, but the jig removed all doubt. I know by this point you've probably installed it, but future reference for other projects.
I don't have an impact driver but did try using my drill in reverse and holding the hole saw to try and remove it. Was too tight on the drill bit to work, and one time was really close to cutting my hand! Gave up after that and just used a pair of large pliers on each piece to remove it. One time it even took two people (two hands on each pair of pliers) to twist it off. Thing gets stuck real good!
Thanks for the video. Wish me luck. I'm planning to do three wood doors this weekend. This will be my first time working on a project like this. Do you have a video on shaving off the The width and height on a door?
good, informative video... particularly thanks for showing how to use strike locator (it's for existing plates or for when you put the plate first!) How did you replace the hole saw between sizes? mine seized up after using larger one first, puzzled how to get it off....
I used this jig on two 1 & 3/8 inch doors and found that the small (end) latch hole is located too far to the right, and the latch hole is too far to the right.
Here is a link to the door lock installation kit, see below. If you purchase the kit it has 2 hole saws. In the kit there is an arbor bit as well that looks like a big drill bit with threads. The hole saw slides over the top of the bit and screws on the arbor. The arbor bit will then go into the chuck of your drill just like any bit would. Does that help? amzn.to/3l7zkvY
It really depends on the situation in my opinion. If you are replacing an existing door I think its easier to hang the door first and use the auto strike locator to line up the new door knob location with the existing strike plate, assuming you have the hinges already cut. That being said, if you are going to use the old door as a template for your hinges, its just as easy to mark and cut out the old door knob at the same time. I use the existing door as a template in this video: ruclips.net/video/CWC6XkbQjIw/видео.html The auto strike locator is definitely nice when try to line up the new door know with the existing strike plate. Basically you can do it either way.
@@HomeRepairHub thank you!! I'm replacing a door while trying to reuse the old hardware. I think it might be easier to deal with hinges first and hang it like in your video.
Spade bit guide? When you buy the kit it comes with 2 hole saws, at least it did when I bought it. You can use a spade bit but it will chew up the plastic just like you said.
2 3/4 is more common in commercial and 2 3/8 is more common in residential. That being said either will work in most cases. Most hardware you buy for the door can adjust to either. So either will work. When I cut interior doors it's usually 2 3/8. Hope that helps.
I've seen several videos demonstrating this tool, but yours was the first that showed how to use the strike plate locator. You have no idea how much time and effort and frustration you just saved me from! Thanks.
Are we all going to ignore that he gouged the F out of the face of the door when he started drilling the knob hole from the other side?
hahaha
Something about going through the other side. First side went relatively well for me, second side gave me trouble, the bit came loose from the chuck because I had reversed the drill to back out the saw, once I got it adjusted, it caught really hard and fast and jerked my arm/elbow down with the drill really hard. I had to get my husband to finish getting it out. I'm inexperienced with drills and this was my first time using this tool so I'm sure it was user error but it did work.
He might have some door repairs to do after that faux pas. I intentionally did this before I sand, prime and paint the door in case I damaged the door during this process. It's an old door, not sure how old, but it's solid wood. I had to repair the holes the previous homeowners put in it with Elmer's wood epoxy 2 part system. I've seen carpenters use Bondo for this but went with a product designed for wood to hopefully ensure a better, long-term finish.
Anyway, sorry for being unnecessarily long-winded. Hopefully someone finds my comment useful. I only came back to the video for other comments because we can't get the 1 in hole saw off and I need suggestions 😬
It made me think about when Kip on Napoleon Dynamite was trying to show how durable the tubberware was by rolling over it in the van... lol. "Dang it"
Maybe should of edited that out or showed why you should flip it once you drilled half way through. Highly encourage everyone to use the template on both sides to avoid that type of issue.
@@rv310409 Can't you just drill all the way through the first time?
I've had one of these kits for several years myself and love it! I use it all the time! Just one thing I learned very early on with this kit or ANY other brand... I only use the kit to get my holes started, then remove it. Why? Because the bits get HOT and they will melt the plastic! You don't really NEED to leave the kit attached once you get your pilot holes started. It's saved me from having to replace the plastic kit all the time. Just a trick I learned. Oh, and I sure hope this was not a customer's door since your second side got a nice mark from when your hole saw rode across it. Don't worry, I've done that a time or two but not in several years since I taught myself little tricks to avoid it. I can't afford to replace a customer's door because of MY mistakes. Anyway, nice video! Just thought I'd throw in the fact that it's best to just get your initial drill pilot holes started THEN REMOVE THE KIT. You'll avoid melting it from the hot hole saws.
That's a good idea. I appreciate the feedback. And, no it wasn't a customer door. It was my own. I was able to just fill it with wood filler and sand it down.
Thanks so much for the impact driver tip to remove the hole saw! Much appreciated.
When I am drilling a door face I use painters tape or masking tape on the wood surfaces which minimizes the risk of splintering or scuffing the surfaces such as what occurred on the backside of the door/knob hole. I also spray the edges of my hole saws with silicone spray which helps to cut friction and slide through the wood easier. I do this on my table and chop saw blades as well.
Good idea
Nice video. Just what I needed to cut my doorknob hole. Keep up the good work. Your subscribers will grow fast because you’re great at explaining and showing other angles others wouldn’t think about. Good luck.
Trip to hardware store wasn’t
needed after info about Pilot Mandrill locked🔒inside the Hole Saw info ; bless you sir ~😅~
Glad it helped. Thanks for the feedback
Thank you so much. This video helped us out so much. The directions were not clear at all. You helped out a million.
Very nice video thank you for your excellent advise. I went ahead and purchased the Ryobi door knob installation jig which made re-drilling the main 2 1/8" holes very easy. The original holes were made with drill bits requiring all 4 to be re-drilled. Drilling the new holes was easy and very accurate and time saving. Unfortunately, I could not figure out how to use the strike locator which is not indented like the one on your jig. Other than the strike locator the jig works great.
I don’t leave comments normally. But thank you very much for the tip to release the whole saw bit !!!!!
Great short concise video, 1000 thanks. 🙂
Thank you! I wasn't sure how that Auto Strike feature was supposed to work. Your video was very helpful.
Good video👍🏻 easy to understand and good angles , thank you
i felt that pain on the back side of the door when you caught reverse. ouch
So essentially you only need the auto strike locator if there is already a strike plate on the jamb? I've got to make a new hole for the strike plate. Thanks for the video, just what I needed!
The locator can also be used if you need to cut a new strike plate. Once you have installation kit set to the location you want on the door, you can then use the locator to determine where the strike plate needs to be on the door jamb. So you don't necessarily need to have the strike plate on the jamb cut first.
Since you're setting a new strike plate as well, it may make sense to pick a basic location and set the strike plate in the jam first. That way, you're able to use the auto locate jig effectively. I've found that using it without the plate in place still gives you a general idea, but the jig removed all doubt.
I know by this point you've probably installed it, but future reference for other projects.
Very helpful, thanks
I don't have an impact driver but did try using my drill in reverse and holding the hole saw to try and remove it. Was too tight on the drill bit to work, and one time was really close to cutting my hand! Gave up after that and just used a pair of large pliers on each piece to remove it. One time it even took two people (two hands on each pair of pliers) to twist it off. Thing gets stuck real good!
The key is the impact driver. Doesn't really work with a standard drill.
@@HomeRepairHub I figured. I don't have one so I had to use what I had :D
Thanks for the video. Wish me luck. I'm planning to do three wood doors this weekend. This will be my first time working on a project like this.
Do you have a video on shaving off the The width and height on a door?
Nice guide! Thanks!
good, informative video... particularly thanks for showing how to use strike locator (it's for existing plates or for when you put the plate first!)
How did you replace the hole saw between sizes? mine seized up after using larger one first, puzzled how to get it off....
Watch the end of the video. I show you how to easily remove the arbor from a hole saw.
@@HomeRepairHub is there a way to do it without an impact driver? I don’t have one.
Thank you 😊 GREST
I used this jig on two 1 & 3/8 inch doors and found that the small (end) latch hole is located too far to the right, and the latch hole is too far to the right.
Thanks this is great.
how to mount holesaw on drill ? you forget to show that in video ! do the bit come with ryobi door lock installation kit ?
Here is a link to the door lock installation kit, see below. If you purchase the kit it has 2 hole saws. In the kit there is an arbor bit as well that looks like a big drill bit with threads.
The hole saw slides over the top of the bit and screws on the arbor. The arbor bit will then go into the chuck of your drill just like any bit would. Does that help? amzn.to/3l7zkvY
Great video
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
is it a 1 inch spade bit that comes with the kit
Is there a tool that helps you cut/install the strike place in the jamb?
Interesting question!
@@costielgreco3960my question too but 3 years no answer dang it
Hell Yeah 👍
What screws did you use to tighten the thing down with??
I just used a couple drywall screws. Though you can use the same screws you will use to set the face plate.
Tip, if you put a flat washer on the arbor before the hole saw if makes it much easier to get the saw off.
I will have to give that a shot. I usually just use an impact driver. It comes of easy too. I will try that.
@@HomeRepairHub does that actually work
Are you fuckin kidding me loool this entire I just get to eye level with the latch plate. 🤦🏼🤣
I dont have that 2nd white piece...did u buy that
the small hole saw? Yes both hole saws should come with the kit.
Is it best to hang the door first? Or can I do it before I add the hinges?
It really depends on the situation in my opinion. If you are replacing an existing door I think its easier to hang the door first and use the auto strike locator to line up the new door knob location with the existing strike plate, assuming you have the hinges already cut. That being said, if you are going to use the old door as a template for your hinges, its just as easy to mark and cut out the old door knob at the same time. I use the existing door as a template in this video:
ruclips.net/video/CWC6XkbQjIw/видео.html
The auto strike locator is definitely nice when try to line up the new door know with the existing strike plate. Basically you can do it either way.
@@HomeRepairHub thank you!! I'm replacing a door while trying to reuse the old hardware. I think it might be easier to deal with hinges first and hang it like in your video.
I love you.
4:40 u kinda fuckedf up their LOl
Tool name please
Ryobi Wood/Metal door lock installation kit - amzn.to/3l7zkvY
Thanks for posting this. The instructions that come with it are pretty crappy
4:40 WTF MAN
My adventure with woodworking started with Woodglut.
This thing is a piece of crap. The spade bit guide is crappy plastic and got chewed up. Get a kit with two hole saws for the job.
Spade bit guide? When you buy the kit it comes with 2 hole saws, at least it did when I bought it. You can use a spade bit but it will chew up the plastic just like you said.
U scratched the door drilling with your left hand, no good!
How do you know if it's 2 3/8 or 2 3/4?
2 3/4 is more common in commercial and 2 3/8 is more common in residential. That being said either will work in most cases. Most hardware you buy for the door can adjust to either. So either will work. When I cut interior doors it's usually 2 3/8. Hope that helps.