Excellent job! I do definitely recommend removing the negative (black) battery cable as step 1 prior to beginning, and let it sit disconnected for 1 full minute. Then unplug the TB connector and proceed. The ECU needs its volatile memory erased so that it can relearn the cleaned TB. Excellent advice on opening the throttle plate VERY SLOWLY so that no damage is done to the motor and gears inside. FYI to those who may not know, that throttle plate can be closed by its actuator motor VERY powerfully and it can really injure your fingers pretty badly. It needs to be unplugged. And absolutely don't try to clean the thing with the car turned on with a brick holding the plate open. That is not good at all for several reasons... Also FYI, you should use specialized throttle body cleaning solvent which can be purchased at an auto parts store. Don't use brake cleaner or carb cleaner or anything else, just throttle body cleaner spray. It's not expensive. Just use a rag, no brass or steel brushes and no 3M scrubby pads or anything like that. Just a soft rag and the spray cleaner. If you absolutely need it, you can use a "very soft" rated toothbrush and gently agitate stuck on deposits. The throttle plate and body throat needs to be perfectly smooth so that the air flow isn't turbulent. Critically important. I have heard (and done it myself) that there is a procedure for allowing the computer to perfectly relearn the correct throttle body control and behavior in regards to the idle speed. The process is this: Start the engine and let it idle until it's fully warmed up to operating temperature. Then go for a drive where you can accelerate as normal to a speed above 31mph and maintain it for 3-5 minutes straight, then slow to a complete stop and idle in D-drive for 2 minutes. Repeat this "acceleration, cruise at >31mph for 3-5 minutes, and slow to a complete stop and idle for 2 minutes" cycle 3 times. After that last 2 minute idle period is done, drive back home normally and park the car and shut it off fully. Get out and chock the wheels securely. Get inside and turn the key to the "run" position for 2 seconds, and then back off. Then turn it back to "run" again for 2 seconds, and back off. Then turn it back to "run" for 2 seconds but then go further this time to "start" and start the engine and let it run at idle. Immediately after the post-startup high idle comes down a little bit after 5-10 seconds or so and settles to normal, depress the brake pedal and shift the transmission into D-drive and very firmly set the parking brake. Then let your foot off the brake pedal and just let the car sit there idling in D-drive the entire time for 5 minutes. No loads on it either. No AC, no headlights, no radio, no blower motor, no rear window defroster. On my 2012 Corolla, my daytime running lights won't even come on if I start the car with the parking brake engaged before starting it, so be sure to do that. After the engine has idled like this for a little over 5 minutes, you are totally and completely done! The ECU will be 100% relearned and perfectly able to control the throttle in every situation it encounters. I did this TB cleaning and relearn to my 2012 Corolla at 60k miles a few years ago. It was pretty dirty. I removed it and cleaned it off the car, and I replaced the throttle body gasket as well since it was several years old at that point. I also cleaned the mass air flow (MAF) sensor at the same time. That just ensured that the engine was able to accurately measure and provide the correct amount of air so that it could operate optimally afterward. After all, we're doing this to improve or maintain a smooth and accurate performance at idle and at speed! Be cautious around the small coolant Tee coupler fitting with the small diameter hose coming off the large one. It is in plain view near the battery and air filter box. On my Corolla, I bumped the small hose by accident and the small hose's nipple snapped right off of the large Tee body. I bought a new one from the dealer and the part number that superceded the OE part has a thick built-up collar of plastic at the base where the original broke off. Toyota realized it was a failure point after the plastic suffered embrittlement, and the reinforced base will certainly be more rigid in the future. 👍 But, if you don't bump the old style it may be fine forever. Just be cautious.
My new partner just purchased a 2005 Tarago minivan that kept stalling and now thanks to you my new found friend we have a wonderful weekend camper. Liked and subscribed..
Hey bud thank you so much for your help! This video helped me fix my car. I am a small business owner in Texas and I depend on this vehicle for my livelihood. Your video enabled me to fix the problem I had with my car. Thank you so much for making this video and may the good Lord bless you. In a while crocodile!
.. I own a 2010-Matrix .. and I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos on this Toyota Corolla Matrix .. I especially like your "appreciation" of the Matrix model .. it is "So-Easy" to work on ..🙏👍🥰
We've been loving the regular content flow from the new shop. We're sure all your RUclips hard work will continue to pay ever increasing dividends into the future. ❤❤❤
Your videos are great man. I'm having a problem with my matrix engine revving in park. I'm going to clean the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor after watching your videos. God bless brother
I did clean the TB now the engine vibrates badly at stop light. 😢 any recommendations? My MAF seem to be very clean. I have a 2010 matrix 1.8. No problem or vibration before cleaning. Motor mounts look good
Very useful. Yes please more second(last) generation Matrix videos! Will this procedure help restore/improve gas mileage? Love to see you change the blend door actuator under the dash on these 2nd gen Matrix's. More 2.4 liter content please. Thanks Malcolm Ottawa Valley
Hello, the video worked great except I broke the tab off the electrical connector. The engine is running better now but what can I do about the connector?
*NO* do not ever do that! Moving the throttle plate while it is powered on will damage it, and it can seriously injure your fingers in the process of opening and closing. The reduction of the gears makes the actuator motor have quite a good amount of torque. You should *ONLY* ever open the throttle plate by hand gently when the throttle body is completely disconnected from the wiring harness. Prior to disconnecting the throttle body, remove the negative battery cable so that the ECU volatile memory is erased and it will be receptive to relearning the new behavior and park positions of the cleaned (disturbed) throttle plate. I repeat, *DO NOT EVER* try to clean or touch a throttle body that is being held open by the accelerator pedal with the car turned on.
Hey dude, love the videos! Need help with my 2005 Tundra DC 4.7. It has a mechanical whine when giving it throttle, and it happens in all gears, including park. It is directly tied to engine RPM. I've used a stethoscope to isolate the noise and I can hear it most clearly from the oil pan. I removed serpentine belt to rule out any engine peripherals, and I flushed AT fluid and dropped pan to replace filter and it was pretty sparkly clean for 230K miles. I'm kind of at the end of my diagnostic abilities. Do you have any insight on what it could be? Oil pump? Clogged pickup screen? Crankshaft pulley? Timing belt pulleys? Btw my truck runs great with no problems, but it *sounds* like there's a problem! Any help is greatly appreciated! Have a good day.
Another great video I have a 1998 Toyota Camry V6 3.0 and I cleaned the mass air flow sencer but didn't clean the throttle body. I noticed on first startup my idle is kinda high, But once the car is fully warmed up it idle's at 800 or maybe lower, but will cleaning the throttle body lower it on startup
That's interesting how your owner has it on maximum heat. I noticed the microphone for the audio car bluetooth, but I did not see a remote start antenna. Makes me wonder. is she a very skinny cold blooded girl? Or does that indicate not enough heat into the heater core.. South Main Auto did a reverse coolant flush recently with some CLR and compressed air. and a small electric pump so it made me think. Perhaps you can measure the heating temperature across all the vents. Or ask the customer if her heating is working fine and hot enough. Personally, that temperature is too hot for me, and him. When he finished, he said for the testing period he ran it after, it felt like dash melting temperatures. Hope you are getting enough jobs coming into the shop. It seemed like people were not able to get an appointment for a couple months and now this one ccan come back in a couple or few days. Take care friend.
So I cleaned and fixed the throttle body and it has been running much better. But a couple days ago the car started to idle low when I break. It goes down to 500rpm’s then once we have stopped it goes back up to 800rpm’s. Do you have any idea what that could be. (Subscriber from Texas)
Excellent job! I do definitely recommend removing the negative (black) battery cable as step 1 prior to beginning, and let it sit disconnected for 1 full minute. Then unplug the TB connector and proceed. The ECU needs its volatile memory erased so that it can relearn the cleaned TB. Excellent advice on opening the throttle plate VERY SLOWLY so that no damage is done to the motor and gears inside. FYI to those who may not know, that throttle plate can be closed by its actuator motor VERY powerfully and it can really injure your fingers pretty badly. It needs to be unplugged. And absolutely don't try to clean the thing with the car turned on with a brick holding the plate open. That is not good at all for several reasons... Also FYI, you should use specialized throttle body cleaning solvent which can be purchased at an auto parts store. Don't use brake cleaner or carb cleaner or anything else, just throttle body cleaner spray. It's not expensive. Just use a rag, no brass or steel brushes and no 3M scrubby pads or anything like that. Just a soft rag and the spray cleaner. If you absolutely need it, you can use a "very soft" rated toothbrush and gently agitate stuck on deposits. The throttle plate and body throat needs to be perfectly smooth so that the air flow isn't turbulent. Critically important.
I have heard (and done it myself) that there is a procedure for allowing the computer to perfectly relearn the correct throttle body control and behavior in regards to the idle speed. The process is this: Start the engine and let it idle until it's fully warmed up to operating temperature. Then go for a drive where you can accelerate as normal to a speed above 31mph and maintain it for 3-5 minutes straight, then slow to a complete stop and idle in D-drive for 2 minutes. Repeat this "acceleration, cruise at >31mph for 3-5 minutes, and slow to a complete stop and idle for 2 minutes" cycle 3 times. After that last 2 minute idle period is done, drive back home normally and park the car and shut it off fully. Get out and chock the wheels securely. Get inside and turn the key to the "run" position for 2 seconds, and then back off. Then turn it back to "run" again for 2 seconds, and back off. Then turn it back to "run" for 2 seconds but then go further this time to "start" and start the engine and let it run at idle. Immediately after the post-startup high idle comes down a little bit after 5-10 seconds or so and settles to normal, depress the brake pedal and shift the transmission into D-drive and very firmly set the parking brake. Then let your foot off the brake pedal and just let the car sit there idling in D-drive the entire time for 5 minutes. No loads on it either. No AC, no headlights, no radio, no blower motor, no rear window defroster. On my 2012 Corolla, my daytime running lights won't even come on if I start the car with the parking brake engaged before starting it, so be sure to do that. After the engine has idled like this for a little over 5 minutes, you are totally and completely done! The ECU will be 100% relearned and perfectly able to control the throttle in every situation it encounters.
I did this TB cleaning and relearn to my 2012 Corolla at 60k miles a few years ago. It was pretty dirty. I removed it and cleaned it off the car, and I replaced the throttle body gasket as well since it was several years old at that point. I also cleaned the mass air flow (MAF) sensor at the same time. That just ensured that the engine was able to accurately measure and provide the correct amount of air so that it could operate optimally afterward. After all, we're doing this to improve or maintain a smooth and accurate performance at idle and at speed! Be cautious around the small coolant Tee coupler fitting with the small diameter hose coming off the large one. It is in plain view near the battery and air filter box. On my Corolla, I bumped the small hose by accident and the small hose's nipple snapped right off of the large Tee body. I bought a new one from the dealer and the part number that superceded the OE part has a thick built-up collar of plastic at the base where the original broke off. Toyota realized it was a failure point after the plastic suffered embrittlement, and the reinforced base will certainly be more rigid in the future. 👍 But, if you don't bump the old style it may be fine forever. Just be cautious.
My new partner just purchased a 2005 Tarago minivan that kept stalling and now thanks to you my new found friend we have a wonderful weekend camper. Liked and subscribed..
Hey bud thank you so much for your help! This video helped me fix my car. I am a small business owner in Texas and I depend on this vehicle for my livelihood. Your video enabled me to fix the problem I had with my car. Thank you so much for making this video and may the good Lord bless you. In a while crocodile!
.. I own a 2010-Matrix .. and I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos on this Toyota Corolla Matrix .. I especially like your "appreciation" of the Matrix model .. it is "So-Easy" to work on ..🙏👍🥰
We've been loving the regular content flow from the new shop. We're sure all your RUclips hard work will continue to pay ever increasing dividends into the future.
❤❤❤
AMAZING VIDEO you made it so simple to understand thank you!
Your videos are great man. I'm having a problem with my matrix engine revving in park. I'm going to clean the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor after watching your videos. God bless brother
I did clean the TB now the engine vibrates badly at stop light. 😢 any recommendations? My MAF seem to be very clean. I have a 2010 matrix 1.8. No problem or vibration before cleaning. Motor mounts look good
Super awesome little car!
I’m encouraged to completely take out my Throttle body and get the back side clean as well on my 1996 Toyota Camry. Thank you for this video.
Amazing 🤩 love matrix videos! Keep them coming!
Thank you very much for all the informative videos.
Peter, what was the symptom that caused you to clean the TB? Rough idle or low idle? I missed the explanation.
Very useful. Yes please more second(last) generation Matrix videos! Will this procedure help restore/improve gas mileage? Love to see you change the blend door actuator under the dash on these 2nd gen Matrix's.
More 2.4 liter content please. Thanks
Malcolm Ottawa Valley
Thank you.
You have done a very good video. Very helpful.
❤thank you
Always a pleasure watching and learning for your videos thank you Sir!!!!!
Welcome back my friend 👍👍👍
Hello, the video worked great except I broke the tab off the electrical connector. The engine is running better now but what can I do about the connector?
good work Peter! as always!!!!!
What do you think about an assistant stepping on the gas pedal to open the butterfly valve?
*NO* do not ever do that! Moving the throttle plate while it is powered on will damage it, and it can seriously injure your fingers in the process of opening and closing. The reduction of the gears makes the actuator motor have quite a good amount of torque. You should *ONLY* ever open the throttle plate by hand gently when the throttle body is completely disconnected from the wiring harness. Prior to disconnecting the throttle body, remove the negative battery cable so that the ECU volatile memory is erased and it will be receptive to relearning the new behavior and park positions of the cleaned (disturbed) throttle plate. I repeat, *DO NOT EVER* try to clean or touch a throttle body that is being held open by the accelerator pedal with the car turned on.
Your the man Peter thanks!
if the throttle body needs to be removed does the coolant need to be burped or purged of air?
Thanks for sharing this video. Very interesting information.
Does this type of Electronic Throttle Body not have an IAC valve to clean? The idle air is controlled by the ETB?
Hey dude, love the videos!
Need help with my 2005 Tundra DC 4.7. It has a mechanical whine when giving it throttle, and it happens in all gears, including park. It is directly tied to engine RPM. I've used a stethoscope to isolate the noise and I can hear it most clearly from the oil pan. I removed serpentine belt to rule out any engine peripherals, and I flushed AT fluid and dropped pan to replace filter and it was pretty sparkly clean for 230K miles. I'm kind of at the end of my diagnostic abilities. Do you have any insight on what it could be? Oil pump? Clogged pickup screen? Crankshaft pulley? Timing belt pulleys?
Btw my truck runs great with no problems, but it *sounds* like there's a problem!
Any help is greatly appreciated! Have a good day.
Another great video I have a 1998 Toyota Camry V6 3.0 and I cleaned the mass air flow sencer but didn't clean the throttle body. I noticed on first startup my idle is kinda high, But once the car is fully warmed up it idle's at 800 or maybe lower, but will cleaning the throttle body lower it on startup
Have you tried the reset idle procedure for Toyota's? Its easy.
it is normal for it to be 1200-1300 rpm on startup until it warms up
Does this use two coolant lines like the older style with the idle air control valve?
Will this fix idle issue with high and fluctuating idle?
It sounded like Peter was torturing mice when he was tightening those wire clamps with that screwdriver.
How did you know it was time to clean it?
That's interesting how your owner has it on maximum heat. I noticed the microphone for the audio car bluetooth, but I did not see a remote start antenna. Makes me wonder. is she a very skinny cold blooded girl? Or does that indicate not enough heat into the heater core.. South Main Auto did a reverse coolant flush recently with some CLR and compressed air. and a small electric pump so it made me think. Perhaps you can measure the heating temperature across all the vents. Or ask the customer if her heating is working fine and hot enough. Personally, that temperature is too hot for me, and him. When he finished, he said for the testing period he ran it after, it felt like dash melting temperatures. Hope you are getting enough jobs coming into the shop. It seemed like people were not able to get an appointment for a couple months and now this one ccan come back in a couple or few days. Take care friend.
So I cleaned and fixed the throttle body and it has been running much better. But a couple days ago the car started to idle low when I break. It goes down to 500rpm’s then once we have stopped it goes back up to 800rpm’s. Do you have any idea what that could be. (Subscriber from Texas)
Did you figure out the problem?
لماذا لا تصلح علبة السرعة و الديبرياج لسيارة toyota echo
What is the gacket part # that sits behind the throttlebody
YOU ARE THE BEST
WOW very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
How about cleaning in place with solvent and steel wool ?
Never use strong abrasives on your throttle body, it could damage the valve
Another video, yay
Subscribed!
Great
i just spray carb cleaner on rag and wipe off carbon i have skinny fingers lol and rag cant get into engine
Yay 😁
Mechanic bear ❤
Pete's older YT algorithm recommended MAF cleaning video from two years prior: ruclips.net/video/rzrDIRZ-ccs/видео.html
if dirty? is that make rough idle?