Take care, guys. Anti roll bars on a road Mini don’t - that is DON’T - improve roadholding. A rear anti-roll bar will REDUCE roadholding at the rear to a limited degree, which will introduce an element of oversteer, which in turn will counteract the Mini’s tendency to understeer, which will make the handling a little more neutral and thus a little more relaxing. Note the use of the words “a little”: the actual extent of the change will depend on the stiffness of the roll bar, generally a function of its diameter. A roll bar on the front will reduce roll - negligible anyway on a Mini - but increase understeer, which is already significant on the standard car, and does NOT need enhancing…. Think of an anti-roll bar as a means of reducing overall grip at front or rear by lifting the inner wheel under cornering. Use it to improve balance, albeit at the expense of ultimate roadholding. Anti-roll bars certainly do have a place on race cars, because tracks are relatively smooth and the effects can be monitored and refined. But on a road car, on dodgy surfaces especially, I would save money, save weight, save time, avoid risk and spend the cash on stickier tyres. Entirely up to you of course, but I’d recommend you think it through carefully before splashing the cash. Cheers Will
On it's own I agree, a anti-roll bar removes grip from the axle it's placed on, but it also contributes to overall roll stiffness so in the case of a rear anti-roll bar only it's helping the front roll less and adding more grip to the front (hopefully more than you lost at the back). I can only explain the motivation for front and rear anti-roll bars as tightening up the response so it "feels" better at the expense of grip or roadholding, but I'd say the mini excels at this already so as you say I don't see the need. If you can sort the mini's skewed roll then IMO you don't need anti-roll bars. I'd suggest progressive rear bump stops as a potentially better solution to a rear anti-roll bar as you can control roll but are not robbing the inside rear wheel of grip to do it. There's a article in mini magazine issue 214 on rear beam suspension that touches on skewed roll and roll centres.
A anti-roll bar in the rear of a Mini will actually remove some of the grip in the rear making the car handling more neutral. This is good. On the front it will make it even more prone to understeer, something you don’t want. I have raced Minis for 25 years and rarely seen a front anti-roll bar being used. It’s a must in the rear though.
Hey, @CooperSTraveller, I just saw your post on a rear sway bar for your Traveller. I also have a LWB Mini (1977 Estate) and after this past weekend on the CMU64 mountain drives, I am seriously considering adding a rear bar. Did you experience any issues fitting this to your LWB mini? I was wondering because all the video/installation guides feature the short-wheelbase car and standard rear subframe. Thanks!
The welds on the rear bar are less than pretty. It also looks like the ends are open. Wouldn't that mean they will rust away? I assume they aren't protected on the inside.
Awesome video man, some really good tips there! For those viewers back home, would you mind explaining why the swaybar has multiple cut outs in it for the linkage to go in and why you set it to the middle position? Keep up the good work my friend
Found that the rear is the best Mod piece regardless hands down to do a sway bar install and the front is more race and don’t bother Ok so if you like those coils instead of cones this conversion make it’s behave like a modern classic and worth a try because those coils aren’t progressive but the sway bars react different in the front end
Dose it matter how tall the two swivel points are where the bolts go in. Why not shorten both swivels so the rest roll bar doesn’t point downwards so much ?
I am planning to do a bit of experimentation to say for sure, but based on my understanding the longer they are, the more torque you will be transferring to the other wheel due to elongating the angle between the two. So longer = more aggressive, shorter = less. This is my hypothesis and can report back after I do my review drive.
Okay I bought a 1973 Morris mini why does it rattle rumble like crazy while I’m stopping. I asked someone and they said that’s a mini I don’t think when they were new it sounded like that.
hey mate, i replaced my steering rack as per your video, and i have oil leaking out on one of the boots, any ideas, my only thought is the stock cable tie just doesnt cut it.
Hey check out the top level comment I posted on that video. The recommendation for steering racks now is to not add additional oil. When I originally posted the episode the racks did not come pre lubricated. However the suppliers seem to have started adding oil to them from the factory now.
I had a long convo about this with Seven and here is some more detail about this. The length of the drop is not critical and does not impact the behavior in a tangible way. However, moving the link to the very rear will give the bar the least effect, moving the link forward makes the bar more effective, or stiffer. To accomplish that change you will need to extend or retract the pivot bar to accommodate.
Hey I mention at the end, I am not able to do a driving review yet since the turbo engine build isn't quite done yet. When I get the car driving again, I will do a road test and review for everyone :-)
The quality of this rear ARB looks horrid (first welding attempts of my son looked better). Even more so if you compare it to a cheaper KAD or Minispares UK ARB. Except for that I like you videos.
So what do you think, are you gonna get an anti-roll bar kit for you mini? If so which one are you getting?
Take care, guys. Anti roll bars on a road Mini don’t - that is DON’T - improve roadholding. A rear anti-roll bar will REDUCE roadholding at the rear to a limited degree, which will introduce an element of oversteer, which in turn will counteract the Mini’s tendency to understeer, which will make the handling a little more neutral and thus a little more relaxing. Note the use of the words “a little”: the actual extent of the change will depend on the stiffness of the roll bar, generally a function of its diameter. A roll bar on the front will reduce roll - negligible anyway on a Mini - but increase understeer, which is already significant on the standard car, and does NOT need enhancing…. Think of an anti-roll bar as a means of reducing overall grip at front or rear by lifting the inner wheel under cornering. Use it to improve balance, albeit at the expense of ultimate roadholding.
Anti-roll bars certainly do have a place on race cars, because tracks are relatively smooth and the effects can be monitored and refined. But on a road car, on dodgy surfaces especially, I would save money, save weight, save time, avoid risk and spend the cash on stickier tyres. Entirely up to you of course, but I’d recommend you think it through carefully before splashing the cash.
Cheers
Will
On it's own I agree, a anti-roll bar removes grip from the axle it's placed on, but it also contributes to overall roll stiffness so in the case of a rear anti-roll bar only it's helping the front roll less and adding more grip to the front (hopefully more than you lost at the back). I can only explain the motivation for front and rear anti-roll bars as tightening up the response so it "feels" better at the expense of grip or roadholding, but I'd say the mini excels at this already so as you say I don't see the need. If you can sort the mini's skewed roll then IMO you don't need anti-roll bars. I'd suggest progressive rear bump stops as a potentially better solution to a rear anti-roll bar as you can control roll but are not robbing the inside rear wheel of grip to do it.
There's a article in mini magazine issue 214 on rear beam suspension that touches on skewed roll and roll centres.
A anti-roll bar in the rear of a Mini will actually remove some of the grip in the rear making the car handling more neutral. This is good. On the front it will make it even more prone to understeer, something you don’t want. I have raced Minis for 25 years and rarely seen a front anti-roll bar being used. It’s a must in the rear though.
The 'education' offered at 1:25 is the exact opposite of how it works.
Great video Cole and great explanation. Will be something I’ll be doing to the rear of the Traveller.
Hey, @CooperSTraveller, I just saw your post on a rear sway bar for your Traveller. I also have a LWB Mini (1977 Estate) and after this past weekend on the CMU64 mountain drives, I am seriously considering adding a rear bar. Did you experience any issues fitting this to your LWB mini? I was wondering because all the video/installation guides feature the short-wheelbase car and standard rear subframe. Thanks!
I like your pronunciation,its very very clear ❤️
Thank you! 😃
perfect timing on this! I'm doing a front later this week and was about to start looking for pointers.
The welds on the rear bar are less than pretty. It also looks like the ends are open. Wouldn't that mean they will rust away? I assume they aren't protected on the inside.
Saved to watch this later. Fitting one of these is something on my to do list.
Looking forward to next weekend mate!
Another top video Cole really enjoyed that. Perfect well explained👍👍
Another great video, very informative.
Awesome video man, some really good tips there! For those viewers back home, would you mind explaining why the swaybar has multiple cut outs in it for the linkage to go in and why you set it to the middle position? Keep up the good work my friend
Found that the rear is the best
Mod piece regardless hands down to do a sway bar install and the front is more race and don’t bother
Ok so if you like those coils instead of cones this conversion make it’s behave like a modern classic and worth a try because those coils aren’t progressive but the sway bars react different in the front end
Over cones
I would still paint that alinimium for the spacer, it still corrodeds in a way
Dose it matter how tall the two swivel points are where the bolts go in. Why not shorten both swivels so the rest roll bar doesn’t point downwards so much ?
I am planning to do a bit of experimentation to say for sure, but based on my understanding the longer they are, the more torque you will be transferring to the other wheel due to elongating the angle between the two. So longer = more aggressive, shorter = less. This is my hypothesis and can report back after I do my review drive.
Will they work on wet suspension??
I think they actually would and could have a great impact on the performance. I would double check with Seven Mini Parts before ordering to be sure.
Okay I bought a 1973 Morris mini why does it rattle rumble like crazy while I’m stopping. I asked someone and they said that’s a mini I don’t think when they were new it sounded like that.
hey mate, i replaced my steering rack as per your video, and i have oil leaking out on one of the boots, any ideas, my only thought is the stock cable tie just doesnt cut it.
Hey check out the top level comment I posted on that video. The recommendation for steering racks now is to not add additional oil. When I originally posted the episode the racks did not come pre lubricated. However the suppliers seem to have started adding oil to them from the factory now.
@@classicminidiy cheers for the info, sorry i didnt see that comment. i'll drain the oil i guess
How do you know how many threads to leave out on the back??
I had a long convo about this with Seven and here is some more detail about this. The length of the drop is not critical and does not impact the behavior in a tangible way. However, moving the link to the very rear will give the bar the least effect, moving the link forward makes the bar more effective, or stiffer. To accomplish that change you will need to extend or retract the pivot bar to accommodate.
@@classicminidiy Ok thank you.
How does it feel to drive now Cole?
Hey I mention at the end, I am not able to do a driving review yet since the turbo engine build isn't quite done yet. When I get the car driving again, I will do a road test and review for everyone :-)
really got confused bij the bleed nipple for the brakes, it's on the bottum
is that how it's suppossed to be? or are the brakes on the wrong side ?
Hey! Nope they are correct, have a look at the diagram linked below.
www.7ent.com/pages/articles-tech-tips/diagram-brakes-rear.html
@@classicminidiy no diagram Cole, just a parts list
Hello! Where can I buy these bars? Thanks! Andrea
Links are in the description. 👍🏼
Where did you get your t shirt??
store.classicminidiy.com/collections/apparel/products/short-sleeve-unisex-t-shirt
No need to add these to a mini suspension system..
The quality of this rear ARB looks horrid (first welding attempts of my son looked better). Even more so if you compare it to a cheaper KAD or Minispares UK ARB.
Except for that I like you videos.