This is a follow-up video to the chrome spray paint comparison (ruclips.net/video/mL4IYoxJqu4/видео.html) which determined which spray paint produced the shiniest finish. This newer video shows how to get the best results using the winning paint.
Dear Christina K. Duong, The purpose of the pore filler is to fill in the thousands of holes in wood from the wood's grain. On smooth plastic I would not think it's necessary. If the surface of the item you printed looks bumpy, then anything that smooths it out will be helpful. Sanding and using a glossy spray may be needed to create the glass-smooth surface Spaz Stix requires to look its best. I tried replying to your comment directly, but for some reason there was no reply icon below it.
Wayne Schmidt To Dario P: I tried replying to your post directly but the way you posted it did not allow a "reply" icon to be displayed. I hope you find my reply here. That's an interesting question. The metal would have to be glassy smooth to create the chrome-like finish, which makes me wonder if the paint would stick. I know it adheres to glass-smooth painted surfaces, but they are much softer and may allow to paint to bond with them chemically. With metal this might not happen. I have to be honest and say I simply don't know. Off course, if the metal was polished glass smooth then I might not need painting, unless it wasn't chrome colored.
To Jake Taylor, RUclips sent me notification that you commented on this video saying that I need to use a base coat of gloss black paint to make the mirror chrome work. Unfortunately, I could not find your comment listed so I can't reply to it directly. I hope you get this general post in response. You are right. mirror chrome needs a gloss black base coat, which is mantioned 4 minutes into the video.
Great videos. Order of this stuff just came in. Using it to spray a mdf jaguar logo for on my wall. Watching your paint comparison video was also a big help. Thanks.
+ryan p Thank you for the comment! I plan on adding a lot more next year, mostly techy stuff. My RUclips channel is a small sampling of the topics from my traditional web site at: waynesthisandthat.com/. I don't advertise or sell anything so you can browse without having to battle popups. I hope you will give it a try!
This is a great tutorial! I tried to use this product about a year ago on a Gundam kit; needless to say it did not work out, BECAUSE I was applying it like a regular colour spray; thin, thin, thick. Following your technique, my test piece is at a high gloss, dusty chrome that is well on its way to drying over night.Tomorrow night, I'll buff it and give it a couple of coats of clear blue.
Zack Vahn Don't be surprised if the chrome look dulls considerably when it's over coated. I've had a hard time finding anything that can be sprayed over the mirror chrome that doesn't dull it. Recently, someone left a comment on my Mirror Chrome Over Coating video (ruclips.net/video/R6m0o_xlwZU/видео.html) suggesting that Devcon 2-ton, 30-minute epoxy works well. I tried it and found that unlike all the other clear coats I've tested, the Devcon did not dull the finish.
Wayne Schmidt I ended up going over it in three coats with Tamiya clear blue, straight out of the can. Thin, then thick. It has a very high gloss finish and didn't dull it too much.
Mr. Schmidt, I would like to thank you for this video and your test video. I had been looking Chrome like paint my self for my projects. I make custom steampunk guns for a hobby. I'll make sure to use this video advice since gives great insight. Thank again. I'll let you know how my project come out.
Great video series. I went to my very first pinewood derby event just two weeks ago at the ripe old age of 45. It was an annual ward event called "Rods and Dogs". I think we had more non church members there than members. It was great. I would love it if you would be more specific on attaching the axles and wheels to the car and the bending of the axles. Thank you very much for your time and teaching.
The following URL will take you to my RUclips video of how I make my cars: ruclips.net/video/ml-oUf2KAys/видео.html. For bending the axles, of which I'm not a proponent unless it's a railrider car, I usethe Pro Axle Bender by Derby Worx. It's the only on I've used so I can't say whether it's better or worse than any of the other benders on the market.
Wayne Schmidt I have watched the videos on the making of your cars and have enjoyed it. What I did not see was the actual mounting of the axles and wheels to the car. Any advice there would be great.
Dave Hoover The axles are pushed into the axle holes drilled into the sides of the car's body. The holes are slightly undersized and hold the axles firmly yet allow them to be rotated to align the wheels. The actual drill size is determined by the type of race car. For example, I believe Boy Scouts of America kits with nail type axles require a number 40 bit. AWANA hinge pin type axles call for a 3/32 inch bit. I drill the axle holes 5/8ths of an inch deep. The gap between the side of the car and the inside wheel hub should be 1/10th of an inch, according to Dr. Acton (Physics and the Pinewood Derby DVD) but some experts disagree with this. Insert the axles using an axle tool, which looks like a flat ended pliers with a round groove ground into the jaw ends to hold the axle head. Is this what you wanted? If not, please explain what you need and I will be happy to try to supply the information.
As long as the can is labeled, Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome #10009, it should be the same product regardless of the cap cover. I usually get mine from Amazon, where the display picture shows it with a black cap. But when my last order arrived, it had a white cap. I suspect Spaz Stix uses whatever cap color they have available.
Can I apply it on my car's front grill and apply a clear protective coat? The grill is not touched, but it's exposed to the air pressure while driving.. Will the protective clear coat make it last longer?
+U tube You Front grills receive the greatest number hits and the hardest hits so I don't think even the toughest clear coat would last very long. But, I've never tried it so I can't say for sure that it wouldn't work.
+quetzalcoatul1 That's what you're supposed to do. A gloss black undercoat provides the glass-smooth surface needed to get a chrome-like shiny surface. Any gloss can be used, but black works best because it makes it easy to see where you've already sprayed and what areas need more.
Wayne, I'm looking to paint a shiny brass chandelier circa 80s/early 90s. Is this product appropriate? Since it is already a shiny surface, would i need to spray paint black? Thanks for the info!
+Marissa Mazur Thank you commenting!I wouldn't recommend Spaz Stix for that. It's very expensive and lots of times it doesn't turn out right. Also, it isn't durable. You would never be able to clean it or the paint might come off. It can take a wipe with a soft cloth but no cleaners. Sorry.
Very nice test video and demonstration of technique video. I'd like to test this as a surface paint onto plastic, so I'm sure it'd work well with a nice smooth surface. I'm wanting to possibly use this as a reflector paint in car headlights/tail lights. When applied in the proper way and polished out, it looks more than reflective enough to tail light and turn signal use. I'd probably still use a very expensive kit for headlight reflectors, to maximize light output, but this spray technique looks very promising for the money.
Very possible over time, yes. I bet there would be zero problems in a tail light housing converted to LED though. Since they produce pretty much no heat. I'd still be willing to try it while restoring some of my lighting.
I’m actually trying out your instructions on a 3D printed model (nylon plastic) and was wondering if it’s still necessary to use that pore filler you spoke of during the first step? I was also having trouble understanding the purpose of it. You mentioned it’s for adhering the paint to the body? Wouldn’t primer work too? Or was the pore filler mainly to fill any holes you may have on your pine wood derby car? What impurities did you see on your car that made you need to use a pore filler?
***** I have finished painting my models and they came out mediocre, meaning I couldn't get it to be super shiny like the derby car in this tutorial but when you put your finger right next to the model, you can see your finger reflected on it, so that was good enough for me. If you want advice, having the surface be super smooth and super glossy is the main goal. Even when I was reading about the $100+ chrome paint kits, they all depend on that glossy smooth surface. With the 3D model made in nylon plastic, you have the advantage of having a non-porous material, so no need to use a foam filler or pore filler. The problem with my model was it came in a matte finish. If you ever seen a matte photograph vs. glossy photography, matte surfaces come in a really bumby/wavy texture. No matter how much I sanded, the matte would not really go away. The derby car in the tutorial looked smoother than my models. I tried mod podge, but I don't think that did anything for me in terms of filing pores cause I had none. What I should have done was sprayed the mod podge and NOT sand it off so I could turn the matte into a gloss surface. At this point, I'm not a really reliable source on how to use mod podge cause it caused me a lot more problems in a lot of my projects, but my main point would be to get that smooth surface. The model master enamel black is a must though. All chrome kits have some sort of black gloss undercoat which is the key to making it reflective. I wonder if this link will work. mldcmx.deviantart.com/art/Lightning-Returns-Vambrace-Phase-3-527542480
If I use this method on Shapeways plastic, do I have to use a pore filler (Michaels stuff) you mentioned? Also I've heard of people using Pledge Future polish to preserve their chromed plastic parts, wonder if this method would work.
+Brendan Haugland I don't know what "Shapeways plastic" is, but unless it has a glass smooth finish, then yes, it'll need some sort of pore filler. It doesn't have to be Magikote. In fact, if the surface is smooth the gloss black paint undercoat may be enough. Here's a short video I made to test Pledge Future over Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. It may work for some chrome finishes, but I found it dulled the Spaz Stix. ruclips.net/video/R6m0o_xlwZU/видео.html Thanks for commenting and good luck!
"Dear Christina K. Duong, The purpose of the pore filler is to fill in the thousands of holes in wood from the wood's grain. On smooth plastic I would not think it's necessary. If the surface of the item you printed looks bumpy, then anything that smooths it out will be helpful. Sanding and using a glossy spray may be needed to create the glass-smooth surface Spaz Stix requires to look its best. I tried replying to your comment directly, but for some reason there was no reply icon below it." Sorry about that. I was messing with the Google+ settings. I think I fixed it, so I hope you can reply to this now. I now understand what you mean about filling in the pores. The item I have came with a "matte" finish, so it was made to be slightly bumpy to begin with. I sanded it down but I still see these trenches run through the item, even though when I run my fingers through it, it feels really smooth. I thought the Model Master Enamel you used would have been sufficient since it looked really thick coming on, but I guess that pore filler you had made it even better? I went to Michael's to get that Magi-coat you spoke of, but they said they no longer sell it and I couldn't find it online anywhere (unless I spelled it wrong). I was recommended "Mod Podge - Gloss Clear Acrylic Sealer (spray can)" which I've seen used for foam pore filling as well. It's a weird product because of it's many different uses (pore filler, sealer, finish, glue) but I'll give that a shot. I'm also using "3M 2000 grit Abrasive Paper Sheets", so I'm not sure if that makes a difference from your Micro-Mesh sheets. Also, thank you for taking your time to make this tutorial as well as the chrome paint comparison vid. You saved me a ton of time and money with research and trial and error issues.
+Kevin Kittle Then I guess I'd have to go with the Spaz Stix Clear Coat for Mirror Chrome. It's the clear they developed specifically for mirror chrome. Good luck!May I ask what you're using it on?
Im wanting to use this on plastic as I customize a lot of toys. Will it give me the same gloss/semi gloss reflective look if I follow these steps? I dont expect to be perfect but anything is better then a metallic gloss acrylic paint.
+AxlAnderson Also, after spraying on the chrome, would it be possible to go over it, maybe with a glossy clear coat where you would be able to handle it without the chrome dulling?
+AxlAnderson As long as you can get a super shiny base coat the mirror chrome should produce a great shine on plastic. For models, the problem might be that to lay down enough base coat paint to get a wet layer, the paint might flow into tight areas and fill in fine detail. I still haven't found a clear coat I like. But, for a model that's not going to be handled too much it should work great. I have a six month old pinewood derby car that still looks mirror shiny. The paint hasn't oxidized or taken on any mars from minor handling. Just remember: use very light coats. It might be good to try it with a test piece before gambling with a real part. Good luck!
+Austin Cummins Michaels stopped carrying it last year. It's available on Amazon.com. Here's the URL: www.amazon.com/DecoArt-DS105-64-8-Ounce-MagiKote/dp/B004VD4148/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1457226102&sr=1-1&keywords=magicoat. I hope this helps.
can i use this on the inside of my car headlights , you know , so it can reflect the light better , because hte old chrome on the inside is fading out and starting to have little black dots and it is not soft , so what should i do ?
Have you tried Pledge floor care multi surface finish as clear? I use to clesr coat my model cars, clear and chrome parts included, it doesn't etch the surface and it doesn't dull the chrom. Being acrylic it doesn't form a mechanical adhesion by etching the layer underneath.
Yes. It worked about the best of all the clear coats I tested but still reduced the bare paint's chrome look to something more like buffed aluminum. This is only noticeable if the chrome finish is very good. Most chrome paints aren't truly mirror-like so the dulling affect isn't as obvious.
knight44441 I believe the "black backer" paint is intended to be sprayed on top of mirror chrome after the mirror chrome has been sprayed onto the inside of the clear shell body of an RC car. The backing paint is to protect the mirror chrome. I don't know if it's going to be glossy enough to use as a base coat underneath mirror chrome used in an external application. Good luck all the same!
knight44441 Good luck! Please note that half of my attempts to get a mirror-like finish fail. Usually the problem is my failing to take enough time to apply very light coats.
knight44441 What do you mean "as a foundation?" Is Spaz Stix saying that their backing paint can also be used as a foundation gloss coat? I didn't know it was a gloss paint. I should think any glossy black paint would work. I found Model Master gloss black worked very well, though it is messy to use.
Hi Wayne, I am ready to do some trim pieces on a real car interior that are no longer available anywhere. These were originally chrome tape like material adhered to plastic but have since peeled (and been sanded for this job). My one concern is the ability for the paint to remain whole while reintroducing these trim pieces to their respective areas within the car. These pieces are bendable to some extent and likely require some muscle to get them back in place. How elastic is this chrome paint using the aerosol cans (I have the black backer, chrome and clear coat ready to go), and is there another product that can be added to enhance elasticity? I just don't want to find myself painting for 4 days and go to install only to find the paint cracks within 10 seconds of reinstallation. Your wisdom using this product would be greatly appreciated. Much thanks.
+GVCatalano I think you are going to have a lot of problems for several reasons. First is getting a good, glassy-smooth base coat for the Spaz Stix. It's going to be extremely hard to do without getting drips and runs on such a complicated shape. Second, getting a good chrome look over a small area is hard even with Spaz Stix. Getting it uniform over an extended shape like you've described may not be possible. Finally, even if you manage to overcome those two issues and let the paint dry a week to make sure it's fully cured, it's still going to be so soft that handling it to push it in place is almost certainly going to result in fingerprints being pressed into the paint. The layer of Spaz Stix is very thin, but to get the high gloss base coat requires considerable thickness, which will be soft enough to be deformed. I wish I could give you better news but I don't see how this is going to work for your application. It's really only meant for models. Sorry.
+Wayne Schmidt How about self adhesive chrome tape like this stuff: www.amazon.com/Trimbrite-T1818-Chrome-Brite-60/dp/B00029XBJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462163177&sr=8-1&keywords=chrome+tape?
+Wayne Schmidt Yeah, that is what I was thinking too. I saw the tape you suggested and bought it. I want to do a test run. Cutting that into a 1/8" x 22" bead should be splendid. "Honey, we need exacto knife blades again!" UGH, the task of the classic car owner is not for the faint of heart. Thanks for your prompt reply and much success with the page. While I don't do the radio car thing, I customize so many real ones, I am bound to use the Spaz product soon enough and your video really helped me to understand the application process. Cheers.
+GVCatalano Ok, got the black backer on the parts I wanted after a good sanding to get them smooth. I returned back to this video and heard you mention that the black needs to be buffed prior to painting it with the final heavy black coat, and before the chrome afterwards (I hope I understood that correctly). That said, you didn't demo that phase. What are you using to buff? Fine sand paper?
+GVCatalano I just re-watched the video playing particular attention to applying the black base coat and I didn't hear any mention of buffing the black before or after applying the final wet coat of black. Doing so would almost certainly ruin the super-glossy final coat of black.
+Elfime Mirror chrome isn't durable enough for that application. It's great for protected models that only receive light handling, but anything stronger would almost certainly wear it off.
Jesse Lujan I've seen a youtube video (ruclips.net/video/yoTukifwLT0/видео.html) where someone uses a heat gun on an un-named chrome paint and it brings up the shine like magic. I tried it with a hair drier and couldn't get it to work. Maybe the hair drier didn't get hot enough. Here's a different video where a guy uses a torch to get the same effect: ruclips.net/video/IKofgUCRh4M/видео.html Anyone with more information about this paint or using heat guns to brighten the finish please comment.
Thanks for the video, I'm considering applying this kind of chrome paint on a watch case that is made of translucent polycarbonate, do you think this paint could resist the wear of a watch?
+Hitman Dz I couldn't recommend it. The shine isn't nearly as pure as an actual mirror, and even if it was just using it to cover the crack would mean the new reflecting surface is the thickness of the glass higher than the mirror's reflecting surface on the back of the glass. It would look like a mirror stuck to the surface of another mirror. Sorry.
Hello, excellent video! But i don't understand something (sorry, i'm french and the english is sometime difficult for me). At 5:30, Do you say that it's necessary to put water on the Master or do you say that the Master is wet and it's necessary to wait 3 days? thx
+Diamond Gipsy I meant to say that the final coat of the Model Master gloss black paint should be sprayed on heavy enough so that it looks wet. This ensures that that the last coat is as smooth as possible. Because this coat is thicker than usual, it needs to dry for at least three days. I did not mean to suggest that water should be sprayed on the paint. Be careful when spraying this last coat because if it gets a little too thick it will run and create drips lines.
+Wayne Schmidt thank you for your advide :) I intend to paint on a flat surface, probably I 'll use a special paint roller for lacque (for black master) to have a perfect plane surface..Can you tell me if it's necessary to put a backer for an exterior use?
+Diamond Gipsy A roller will leave a slightly bumpy surface. I recommend using a spray. I'm not sure what you mean by a "backer for exterior use?" The black paint goes on first, then the mirror chrome. The mirror chrome is the top or exterior surface. "Backer" paints are usually sprayed on top of the mirror chrome to protect it when the mirror chrome is sprayed on the inside of a clear plastic model car body. "Backer" paint may not be glossy enough to use as a base coat.
+Wayne Schmidt hi, and thanks again for your advise about a roller. thanks for your answer. I understood all the stages. I spoke about a coat of protection because what I am going to paint will be exposed outside, outdoors. Something like Spaz Stix Ultimate Backer for Mirror Chrome Aerosol Paint. Then I wanted to know if I had to use a last coat of protection after the chrome if the chrome can resist easly to weather conditions?
+Diamond Gipsy Again, Spaz Stix Backer for Mirror Chrome is an opaque black paint sprayed on mirror chrome after mirror chrome is sprayed on the inside of a clear plastic model car body. The clear plastic is what you look at, the mirror chrome on its inside surface makes it look like a mirror and the backer protects the mirror chrome from abrasions on the inside of the body. The clear plastic shell protects the mirror chrome from the outside and the backer protects it from the inside. I have not yet found a good clear paint that can be sprayed on top of the mirror chrome to protect it while still letting the chrome shine through. Even the clear coat sold by Spaz Stix for Mirror Chrome dulls its shine. I would never use mirror chrome on an exterior surface. It's far to fragile. I only recommend it for models that will be kept inside and protected.
+manuel Gamboa It can be sprayed on anything that is first given a glass smooth gloss black undercoat. The problem with something as curved and large as a football helmet would be getting such a base coat without any drips or runs.
+DraconisMarchVII It's very durable for model use. I used it on a pinewood derby car last year and the finish is still mirror bright even though I handle it from time to time. The coating is too thin for any sort of chemical cleaning, but light dustings don't seem to bother it at all.
Thanks! Another question: Let's say I put down coats of black gloss vinyl dye. Then I put a layer of gloss clear coat (say, automotive enamel) on top of it, then the chrome on top of that. Would this clear coat affect the chrome?
+DraconisMarchVII Any glossy undercoat will do. Black has the advantage of showing where you've already sprayed so you don't keep going over the same spot.
+Offishu It should work on anything that can be given a glass-smooth finish before spraying the mirror chrome on it. Just be warned that it intended for display purposes only. It's too delicate for outdoor use.
ray medina Yes, but they are expensive ($400 was the cheapest I could find) and hard to locate. Many auto body shops now have them because real chrome work has become so expensive. Problem is, the wet sprays look great but they are still paint so they aren't durable like real chrome.
+Nana Miles Yes. Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome was originally designed to be painted on the inside of clear Lexan RC car bodies to give them a mirror-like finish. For use on an exterior surface, if the plastic is glassy-smooth, you may be able to get away with not laying down a base coat of gloss black paint. But be warned, this is a cosmetic finish. It's not intended for use where it will be exposed to the elements.
+Wayne Schmidt So if using first adhesive promoter as primer then a black gloss second coat then that spray plus clear coat as finish, would be good for motorcycle parts, what do you think about it please, thanks 'n regards. PS: did you used 10 coat to make a chrome, 5 coat would look as titanium ?
+Rodrigo Costa (rodricosta) Unless the clear coat is extremely durable, again I wouldn't recommend this for any exterior use. Also, most clear coats dull the chrome look. I about to start an experiment to compare the three best I've found. Reducing the number of coats runs the risk of creating an uneven look. Because each coat is so light, they tend to be uneven.
There are several silvering kits available that aren't too expensive. I believe I got a small one for $40.00. The finishes these provide is much better than Spaz Stix in terms of how much they look like true chrome. The problem is that they are extremely difficult to put on evenly. Also, I could not find a clean coat that didn't destroy or at least discolor them. The silver finish is far too delicate to use without some sort of protective over coat. There are kits that come with special clear coats but these start at $400.00. That's too much just to experiment with.
You know what? I think you're right. Looking at it now, the silver on the wheels draws the eye away from the body and makes the car look heavy. Leaving them gloss black, as you suggested, would have provided contrast, which would have enhanced the effect of both colors. Best of all, this is easily fixed. Next time the car is pulled out I'll repaint the tires with gloss black. Thanks for the great idea and commenting!
Hi Wayne. Excellent videos on chrome spray paint! I would like to achieve a decent chrome finish on a reproduction aluminum railroad emblem. Problem is that it's a sand cast so the surface is not mirror finish smooth. The local chrome shops says they'll charge about $500 dollars to polish the surface smooth and chrome it, Unfortunately that's beyond my budget. I'm thinking of trying the techniques you show with the Spaz Stix paint. Although I know it won't be perfect it may be close enough. I'd love to get your thoughts/suggestions. If you'd like to see a picture of the aluminum emblem I'm trying to apply a finish to - it is currently posted on ebay as item #221750037751 Thanks!
+Dave B Good luck! Sorry I didn't respond right away. For some reason RUclips has stopped sending me email notifications when someone comments on one of my videos.
+Wayne Schmidt Hi Wayne, I haven't tried it yet - was hoping to get your thoughts on whether it was worth trying since the surface being coated is not mirror smooth. You can see the item in ebay - just search for item 221750037751 and mouse over the picture for a zoomed in look that should show the texture. I will check back at least every week for your reply/thoughs. Thanks in advance! Dave
+turbotonic27 I've contacted several auto body shops and refinishers and the quote for a pinewood derby car, which is what I'm doing this for, averages $40. That's a little steep for me. Also, most plating services require and acid dip to clean the surface, which would dissolve the gloss base coat. Wood is also a problem for most of them. There is a water based silvering process that works great, but that's $50 per car. Thanks for the comment!
Wayne Schmidt i mean how much have you wasted on spray cans and products trying to achieve that chrome finish ? could have spent it on nickel plating, also have you tried to polish it ? using fine grit sand paper, then buffing it to a mirror shine using the buffing wheel and polishing compound i just polished some aluminum rims to a mirror finish like this for cheap
+turbotonic27 I don't feel I wasted the money on testing all these paints because the fact is that it was a lot of fun. I'm the nerdy sort of guy who enjoys doing these types of comparisons. Also, by posting a video about it that has been viewed by almost 100,000 people I may have helped many of them find the paint they needed or saved them from having to replicate the experiment for themselves. I'd say that was worth the expense. As for the nickel plating, again, it wouldn't work for my particular application. The sanding/buffing/polishing process isn't applicable because as I already explained, this is for wood surfaces.
+Wayne Schmidt In case you still aren't convinced that nickel plating isn't an option, this Wikipedia article discusses the acid baths required to pretreat the surface to be plated, which would destroy the paint base coat and underlying wood: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroless_nickel_plating.
This is a follow-up video to the chrome spray paint comparison (ruclips.net/video/mL4IYoxJqu4/видео.html) which determined which spray paint produced the shiniest finish. This newer video shows how to get the best results using the winning paint.
Dear Christina K. Duong,
The purpose of the pore filler is to fill in the thousands of holes in wood from the wood's grain. On smooth plastic I would not think it's necessary. If the surface of the item you printed looks bumpy, then anything that smooths it out will be helpful. Sanding and using a glossy spray may be needed to create the glass-smooth surface Spaz Stix requires to look its best.
I tried replying to your comment directly, but for some reason there was no reply icon below it.
Wayne Schmidt To Dario P: I tried replying to your post directly but the way you posted it did not allow a "reply" icon to be displayed. I hope you find my reply here.
That's an interesting question. The metal would have to be glassy smooth to create the chrome-like finish, which makes me wonder if the paint would stick. I know it adheres to glass-smooth painted surfaces, but they are much softer and may allow to paint to bond with them chemically. With metal this might not happen. I have to be honest and say I simply don't know. Off course, if the metal was polished glass smooth then I might not need painting, unless it wasn't chrome colored.
I have used Spaz Stix for My RC Car and It Looks Fantastic! Spraying the Underside allowed the show side a 95% true Mirrored finish!
You're right! That's what is was made for. But I needed an external chrome look and found this also works the best for that. Thanks for writing!
To Jake Taylor, RUclips sent me notification that you commented on this video saying that I need to use a base coat of gloss black paint to make the mirror chrome work. Unfortunately, I could not find your comment listed so I can't reply to it directly. I hope you get this general post in response. You are right. mirror chrome needs a gloss black base coat, which is mantioned 4 minutes into the video.
Followed your instructions and worked flawlessly!!!! Thank you so much!
Great videos. Order of this stuff just came in. Using it to spray a mdf jaguar logo for on my wall. Watching your paint comparison video was also a big help. Thanks.
thanks for this. you have a wide array of interesting videos in your channel.
+ryan p Thank you for the comment! I plan on adding a lot more next year, mostly techy stuff.
My RUclips channel is a small sampling of the topics from my traditional web site at: waynesthisandthat.com/. I don't advertise or sell anything so you can browse without having to battle popups. I hope you will give it a try!
HOMG!!! you are saviour to cosplayers everwhere!!! this is great for sword props!!! : D gonna share your video with my friends!!! : D
This is a great tutorial! I tried to use this product about a year ago on a Gundam kit; needless to say it did not work out, BECAUSE I was applying it like a regular colour spray; thin, thin, thick. Following your technique, my test piece is at a high gloss, dusty chrome that is well on its way to drying over night.Tomorrow night, I'll buff it and give it a couple of coats of clear blue.
Zack Vahn Don't be surprised if the chrome look dulls considerably when it's over coated. I've had a hard time finding anything that can be sprayed over the mirror chrome that doesn't dull it. Recently, someone left a comment on my Mirror Chrome Over Coating video (ruclips.net/video/R6m0o_xlwZU/видео.html) suggesting that Devcon 2-ton, 30-minute epoxy works well. I tried it and found that unlike all the other clear coats I've tested, the Devcon did not dull the finish.
Wayne Schmidt I ended up going over it in three coats with Tamiya clear blue, straight out of the can. Thin, then thick. It has a very high gloss finish and didn't dull it too much.
Zack Vahn Sounds great!
Mr. Schmidt, I would like to thank you for this video and your test video. I had been looking Chrome like paint my self for my projects. I make custom steampunk guns for a hobby. I'll make sure to use this video advice since gives great insight. Thank again. I'll let you know how my project come out.
+23Pinicale Thanks for the great comment and good luck with your guns!
Great video series. I went to my very first pinewood derby event just two weeks ago at the ripe old age of 45. It was an annual ward event called "Rods and Dogs". I think we had more non church members there than members. It was great. I would love it if you would be more specific on attaching the axles and wheels to the car and the bending of the axles. Thank you very much for your time and teaching.
The following URL will take you to my RUclips video of how I make my cars: ruclips.net/video/ml-oUf2KAys/видео.html. For bending the axles, of which I'm not a proponent unless it's a railrider car, I usethe Pro Axle Bender by Derby Worx. It's the only on I've used so I can't say whether it's better or worse than any of the other benders on the market.
Wayne Schmidt I have watched the videos on the making of your cars and have enjoyed it. What I did not see was the actual mounting of the axles and wheels to the car. Any advice there would be great.
Dave Hoover The axles are pushed into the axle holes drilled into the sides of the car's body. The holes are slightly undersized and hold the axles firmly yet allow them to be rotated to align the wheels. The actual drill size is determined by the type of race car. For example, I believe Boy Scouts of America kits with nail type axles require a number 40 bit. AWANA hinge pin type axles call for a 3/32 inch bit. I drill the axle holes 5/8ths of an inch deep. The gap between the side of the car and the inside wheel hub should be 1/10th of an inch, according to Dr. Acton (Physics and the Pinewood Derby DVD) but some experts disagree with this. Insert the axles using an axle tool, which looks like a flat ended pliers with a round groove ground into the jaw ends to hold the axle head. Is this what you wanted? If not, please explain what you need and I will be happy to try to supply the information.
Hello I saw in white lid, black lid, blue can. what is the difference are they the same? The Chrome spaz
As long as the can is labeled, Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome #10009, it should be the same product regardless of the cap cover. I usually get mine from Amazon, where the display picture shows it with a black cap. But when my last order arrived, it had a white cap. I suspect Spaz Stix uses whatever cap color they have available.
Can I apply it on my car's front grill and apply a clear protective coat? The grill is not touched, but it's exposed to the air pressure while driving.. Will the protective clear coat make it last longer?
+U tube You Front grills receive the greatest number hits and the hardest hits so I don't think even the toughest clear coat would last very long. But, I've never tried it so I can't say for sure that it wouldn't work.
WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU USE A BLACK GLOSS BEFORE THE APPLICATION OF THE CHROME PAINT?
+quetzalcoatul1 That's what you're supposed to do. A gloss black undercoat provides the glass-smooth surface needed to get a chrome-like shiny surface. Any gloss can be used, but black works best because it makes it easy to see where you've already sprayed and what areas need more.
Wayne, I'm looking to paint a shiny brass chandelier circa 80s/early 90s. Is this product appropriate? Since it is already a shiny surface, would i need to spray paint black? Thanks for the info!
+Marissa Mazur Thank you commenting!I wouldn't recommend Spaz Stix for that. It's very expensive and lots of times it doesn't turn out right. Also, it isn't durable. You would never be able to clean it or the paint might come off. It can take a wipe with a soft cloth but no cleaners. Sorry.
Very nice test video and demonstration of technique video. I'd like to test this as a surface paint onto plastic, so I'm sure it'd work well with a nice smooth surface. I'm wanting to possibly use this as a reflector paint in car headlights/tail lights. When applied in the proper way and polished out, it looks more than reflective enough to tail light and turn signal use. I'd probably still use a very expensive kit for headlight reflectors, to maximize light output, but this spray technique looks very promising for the money.
My concern would be the paint degrading under the heat of the lights.
Very possible over time, yes. I bet there would be zero problems in a tail light housing converted to LED though. Since they produce pretty much no heat. I'd still be willing to try it while restoring some of my lighting.
I’m actually trying out your instructions on a 3D printed model (nylon plastic) and was wondering if it’s still necessary to use that pore filler you spoke of during the first step? I was also having trouble understanding the purpose of it. You mentioned it’s for adhering the paint to the body? Wouldn’t primer work too? Or was the pore filler mainly to fill any holes you may have on your pine wood derby car? What impurities did you see on your car that made you need to use a pore filler?
***** I have finished painting my models and they came out mediocre, meaning I couldn't get it to be super shiny like the derby car in this tutorial but when you put your finger right next to the model, you can see your finger reflected on it, so that was good enough for me.
If you want advice, having the surface be super smooth and super glossy is the main goal. Even when I was reading about the $100+ chrome paint kits, they all depend on that glossy smooth surface. With the 3D model made in nylon plastic, you have the advantage of having a non-porous material, so no need to use a foam filler or pore filler.
The problem with my model was it came in a matte finish. If you ever seen a matte photograph vs. glossy photography, matte surfaces come in a really bumby/wavy texture. No matter how much I sanded, the matte would not really go away. The derby car in the tutorial looked smoother than my models. I tried mod podge, but I don't think that did anything for me in terms of filing pores cause I had none. What I should have done was sprayed the mod podge and NOT sand it off so I could turn the matte into a gloss surface. At this point, I'm not a really reliable source on how to use mod podge cause it caused me a lot more problems in a lot of my projects, but my main point would be to get that smooth surface.
The model master enamel black is a must though. All chrome kits have some sort of black gloss undercoat which is the key to making it reflective.
I wonder if this link will work.
mldcmx.deviantart.com/art/Lightning-Returns-Vambrace-Phase-3-527542480
GOOD INFORMATION ON CHROME SPRAY PAINT!
Thank you! I wish someone would pass a law forcing paint manufacturers to color the paint can caps the color the paint is really going to look like.
@@wayneschmidt490 on my truck I have to metal chrome trim below window, can I use the chrome mirror spray for it to bring it back to life
@@ericjohnson3222 I wouldn't use it for anything but a model. It's too soft to take any abrasion like it would if exposed tooth elements. Sorry.
If I use this method on Shapeways plastic, do I have to use a pore filler (Michaels stuff) you mentioned? Also I've heard of people using Pledge Future polish to preserve their chromed plastic parts, wonder if this method would work.
+Brendan Haugland I don't know what "Shapeways plastic" is, but unless it has a glass smooth finish, then yes, it'll need some sort of pore filler. It doesn't have to be Magikote. In fact, if the surface is smooth the gloss black paint undercoat may be enough.
Here's a short video I made to test Pledge Future over Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. It may work for some chrome finishes, but I found it dulled the Spaz Stix. ruclips.net/video/R6m0o_xlwZU/видео.html
Thanks for commenting and good luck!
"Dear Christina K. Duong,
The purpose of the pore filler is to fill in the thousands of holes in wood from the wood's grain. On smooth plastic I would not think it's necessary. If the surface of the item you printed looks bumpy, then anything that smooths it out will be helpful. Sanding and using a glossy spray may be needed to create the glass-smooth surface Spaz Stix requires to look its best.
I tried replying to your comment directly, but for some reason there was no reply icon below it."
Sorry about that. I was messing with the Google+ settings. I think I fixed it, so I hope you can reply to this now.
I now understand what you mean about filling in the pores. The item I have came with a "matte" finish, so it was made to be slightly bumpy to begin with. I sanded it down but I still see these trenches run through the item, even though when I run my fingers through it, it feels really smooth.
I thought the Model Master Enamel you used would have been sufficient since it looked really thick coming on, but I guess that pore filler you had made it even better?
I went to Michael's to get that Magi-coat you spoke of, but they said they no longer sell it and I couldn't find it online anywhere (unless I spelled it wrong). I was recommended "Mod Podge - Gloss Clear Acrylic Sealer (spray can)" which I've seen used for foam pore filling as well. It's a weird product because of it's many different uses (pore filler, sealer, finish, glue) but I'll give that a shot.
I'm also using "3M 2000 grit Abrasive Paper Sheets", so I'm not sure if that makes a difference from your Micro-Mesh sheets.
Also, thank you for taking your time to make this tutorial as well as the chrome paint comparison vid. You saved me a ton of time and money with research and trial and error issues.
Can you recommend a clear coat to use?
I know all clear coats will cause some dulling, but I need to coat it with -something- to protect it.
+Kevin Kittle Then I guess I'd have to go with the Spaz Stix Clear Coat for Mirror Chrome. It's the clear they developed specifically for mirror chrome. Good luck!May I ask what you're using it on?
I am just curious whether this paint will do well on metal and adhesion is good.
I've never tried it on metal so I can't say.
Im wanting to use this on plastic as I customize a lot of toys. Will it give me the same gloss/semi gloss reflective look if I follow these steps? I dont expect to be perfect but anything is better then a metallic gloss acrylic paint.
+AxlAnderson Also, after spraying on the chrome, would it be possible to go over it, maybe with a glossy clear coat where you would be able to handle it without the chrome dulling?
+AxlAnderson As long as you can get a super shiny base coat the mirror chrome should produce a great shine on plastic. For models, the problem might be that to lay down enough base coat paint to get a wet layer, the paint might flow into tight areas and fill in fine detail. I still haven't found a clear coat I like. But, for a model that's not going to be handled too much it should work great. I have a six month old pinewood derby car that still looks mirror shiny. The paint hasn't oxidized or taken on any mars from minor handling. Just remember: use very light coats. It might be good to try it with a test piece before gambling with a real part. Good luck!
What is the exact name of that pore filler? I checked at Michaels and they don't have what you called it.
+Austin Cummins Michaels stopped carrying it last year. It's available on Amazon.com. Here's the URL: www.amazon.com/DecoArt-DS105-64-8-Ounce-MagiKote/dp/B004VD4148/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1457226102&sr=1-1&keywords=magicoat. I hope this helps.
can i use this on the inside of my car headlights , you know , so it can reflect the light better , because hte old chrome on the inside is fading out and starting to have little black dots and it is not soft , so what should i do ?
+eyad aljamal The reflectors in car headlights, even LED types, get so hot the paint might melt so I wouldn't think it would work.
so what is used on the inside of a headlight ? whats that thing ? is it paint , is it some type of metal ?
+eyad aljamal No idea. I would assume its aluminum vacuum deposited on a high temperature plastic but I don't know for sure.
Wayne Schmidt great thanks ..
+eyad aljamal use aluminum foil and stick with glue
Going to use this to paint my 3D printed Obi Wan lightsaber hilt.
Thank you for the info!
+phillip h You are very welcome.
Have you tried Pledge floor care multi surface finish as clear? I use to clesr coat my model cars, clear and chrome parts included, it doesn't etch the surface and it doesn't dull the chrom. Being acrylic it doesn't form a mechanical adhesion by etching the layer underneath.
Yes. It worked about the best of all the clear coats I tested but still reduced the bare paint's chrome look to something more like buffed aluminum. This is only noticeable if the chrome finish is very good. Most chrome paints aren't truly mirror-like so the dulling affect isn't as obvious.
Wayne Schmidt ahh that's kind of disappointing. Good to know for when I start using the mirror chrome though!
knight44441 I believe the "black backer" paint is intended to be sprayed on top of mirror chrome after the mirror chrome has been sprayed onto the inside of the clear shell body of an RC car. The backing paint is to protect the mirror chrome. I don't know if it's going to be glossy enough to use as a base coat underneath mirror chrome used in an external application. Good luck all the same!
knight44441 Good luck! Please note that half of my attempts to get a mirror-like finish fail. Usually the problem is my failing to take enough time to apply very light coats.
knight44441 What do you mean "as a foundation?" Is Spaz Stix saying that their backing paint can also be used as a foundation gloss coat? I didn't know it was a gloss paint. I should think any glossy black paint would work. I found Model Master gloss black worked very well, though it is messy to use.
Hi Wayne, I am ready to do some trim pieces on a real car interior that are no longer available anywhere. These were originally chrome tape like material adhered to plastic but have since peeled (and been sanded for this job). My one concern is the ability for the paint to remain whole while reintroducing these trim pieces to their respective areas within the car. These pieces are bendable to some extent and likely require some muscle to get them back in place. How elastic is this chrome paint using the aerosol cans (I have the black backer, chrome and clear coat ready to go), and is there another product that can be added to enhance elasticity? I just don't want to find myself painting for 4 days and go to install only to find the paint cracks within 10 seconds of reinstallation.
Your wisdom using this product would be greatly appreciated. Much thanks.
+GVCatalano I think you are going to have a lot of problems for several reasons. First is getting a good, glassy-smooth base coat for the Spaz Stix. It's going to be extremely hard to do without getting drips and runs on such a complicated shape. Second, getting a good chrome look over a small area is hard even with Spaz Stix. Getting it uniform over an extended shape like you've described may not be possible. Finally, even if you manage to overcome those two issues and let the paint dry a week to make sure it's fully cured, it's still going to be so soft that handling it to push it in place is almost certainly going to result in fingerprints being pressed into the paint. The layer of Spaz Stix is very thin, but to get the high gloss base coat requires considerable thickness, which will be soft enough to be deformed. I wish I could give you better news but I don't see how this is going to work for your application. It's really only meant for models. Sorry.
+Wayne Schmidt How about self adhesive chrome tape like this stuff: www.amazon.com/Trimbrite-T1818-Chrome-Brite-60/dp/B00029XBJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462163177&sr=8-1&keywords=chrome+tape?
+Wayne Schmidt Yeah, that is what I was thinking too. I saw the tape you suggested and bought it. I want to do a test run. Cutting that into a 1/8" x 22" bead should be splendid. "Honey, we need exacto knife blades again!" UGH, the task of the classic car owner is not for the faint of heart. Thanks for your prompt reply and much success with the page. While I don't do the radio car thing, I customize so many real ones, I am bound to use the Spaz product soon enough and your video really helped me to understand the application process. Cheers.
+GVCatalano Ok, got the black backer on the parts I wanted after a good sanding to get them smooth. I returned back to this video and heard you mention that the black needs to be buffed prior to painting it with the final heavy black coat, and before the chrome afterwards (I hope I understood that correctly). That said, you didn't demo that phase. What are you using to buff? Fine sand paper?
+GVCatalano I just re-watched the video playing particular attention to applying the black base coat and I didn't hear any mention of buffing the black before or after applying the final wet coat of black. Doing so would almost certainly ruin the super-glossy final coat of black.
Thank you for your video. Do you think that on a big piece like an helmet, the render will be good?
+Elfime Mirror chrome isn't durable enough for that application. It's great for protected models that only receive light handling, but anything stronger would almost certainly wear it off.
I used it before use a heat gun and after spay heat it up and it will bring out mirror
Jesse Lujan I've seen a youtube video (ruclips.net/video/yoTukifwLT0/видео.html) where someone uses a heat gun on an un-named chrome paint and it brings up the shine like magic. I tried it with a hair drier and couldn't get it to work. Maybe the hair drier didn't get hot enough. Here's a different video where a guy uses a torch to get the same effect: ruclips.net/video/IKofgUCRh4M/видео.html Anyone with more information about this paint or using heat guns to brighten the finish please comment.
Thanks for the video, I'm considering applying this kind of chrome paint on a watch case that is made of translucent polycarbonate, do you think this paint could resist the wear of a watch?
panchoskywalker Unfortunately, no. It's okay for models that are treated with care, but would quickly wear off in daily use on anything like a watch.
Wayne Schmidt Thank you, I will have to think about something else.
Hey wayne can i use this on mirror i have a light cracked can i cover the crack with this
+Hitman Dz I couldn't recommend it. The shine isn't nearly as pure as an actual mirror, and even if it was just using it to cover the crack would mean the new reflecting surface is the thickness of the glass higher than the mirror's reflecting surface on the back of the glass. It would look like a mirror stuck to the surface of another mirror. Sorry.
Hello, excellent video! But i don't understand something (sorry, i'm french and the english is sometime difficult for me). At 5:30, Do you say that it's necessary to put water on the Master or do you say that the Master is wet and it's necessary to wait 3 days? thx
+Diamond Gipsy I meant to say that the final coat of the Model Master gloss black paint should be sprayed on heavy enough so that it looks wet. This ensures that that the last coat is as smooth as possible. Because this coat is thicker than usual, it needs to dry for at least three days. I did not mean to suggest that water should be sprayed on the paint. Be careful when spraying this last coat because if it gets a little too thick it will run and create drips lines.
+Wayne Schmidt thank you for your advide :) I intend to paint on a flat surface, probably I 'll use a special paint roller for lacque (for black master) to have a perfect plane surface..Can you tell me if it's necessary to put a backer for an exterior use?
+Diamond Gipsy A roller will leave a slightly bumpy surface. I recommend using a spray. I'm not sure what you mean by a "backer for exterior use?" The black paint goes on first, then the mirror chrome. The mirror chrome is the top or exterior surface. "Backer" paints are usually sprayed on top of the mirror chrome to protect it when the mirror chrome is sprayed on the inside of a clear plastic model car body. "Backer" paint may not be glossy enough to use as a base coat.
+Wayne Schmidt hi, and thanks again for your advise about a roller. thanks for your answer. I understood all the stages. I spoke about a coat of protection because what I am going to paint will be exposed outside, outdoors. Something like Spaz Stix Ultimate Backer for Mirror Chrome Aerosol Paint. Then I wanted to know if I had to use a last coat of protection after the chrome if the chrome can resist easly to weather conditions?
+Diamond Gipsy Again, Spaz Stix Backer for Mirror Chrome is an opaque black paint sprayed on mirror chrome after mirror chrome is sprayed on the inside of a clear plastic model car body. The clear plastic is what you look at, the mirror chrome on its inside surface makes it look like a mirror and the backer protects the mirror chrome from abrasions on the inside of the body. The clear plastic shell protects the mirror chrome from the outside and the backer protects it from the inside. I have not yet found a good clear paint that can be sprayed on top of the mirror chrome to protect it while still letting the chrome shine through. Even the clear coat sold by Spaz Stix for Mirror Chrome dulls its shine. I would never use mirror chrome on an exterior surface. It's far to fragile. I only recommend it for models that will be kept inside and protected.
nice video
Can I spray this on a display football helmet?
+manuel Gamboa It can be sprayed on anything that is first given a glass smooth gloss black undercoat. The problem with something as curved and large as a football helmet would be getting such a base coat without any drips or runs.
Is this stuff safe to handle when it's fully cured? How durable is it?
+DraconisMarchVII It's very durable for model use. I used it on a pinewood derby car last year and the finish is still mirror bright even though I handle it from time to time. The coating is too thin for any sort of chemical cleaning, but light dustings don't seem to bother it at all.
Thanks! Another question: Let's say I put down coats of black gloss vinyl dye. Then I put a layer of gloss clear coat (say, automotive enamel) on top of it, then the chrome on top of that. Would this clear coat affect the chrome?
+DraconisMarchVII I wouldn't think so. Clear coats only seem to affect the chrome layer if they are applied on top of it.
I was just worrying about the fact that chrome needs gloss black underneath it to achieve the proper effect.
+DraconisMarchVII Any glossy undercoat will do. Black has the advantage of showing where you've already sprayed so you don't keep going over the same spot.
can it last long with the heat of the headlights ?
+eyad aljamal I wouldn't think so. Also, getting a good surface on something like that would be difficult.
Does this work on plastic?
+Offishu It should work on anything that can be given a glass-smooth finish before spraying the mirror chrome on it. Just be warned that it intended for display purposes only. It's too delicate for outdoor use.
What about that wet chrome they show on you tube is it real ????
ray medina Yes, but they are expensive ($400 was the cheapest I could find) and hard to locate. Many auto body shops now have them because real chrome work has become so expensive. Problem is, the wet sprays look great but they are still paint so they aren't durable like real chrome.
Thks
Does this method work with plastic as well?
+Nana Miles Yes. Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome was originally designed to be painted on the inside of clear Lexan RC car bodies to give them a mirror-like finish. For use on an exterior surface, if the plastic is glassy-smooth, you may be able to get away with not laying down a base coat of gloss black paint. But be warned, this is a cosmetic finish. It's not intended for use where it will be exposed to the elements.
+Wayne Schmidt So if using first adhesive promoter as primer then a black gloss second coat then that spray plus clear coat as finish, would be good for motorcycle parts, what do you think about it please, thanks 'n regards.
PS: did you used 10 coat to make a chrome, 5 coat would look as titanium ?
+Rodrigo Costa (rodricosta) Unless the clear coat is extremely durable, again I wouldn't recommend this for any exterior use. Also, most clear coats dull the chrome look. I about to start an experiment to compare the three best I've found.
Reducing the number of coats runs the risk of creating an uneven look. Because each coat is so light, they tend to be uneven.
Thank you for the reply, good to know about it.
Regards.
You could also have it dipped in silver,but it may be pricey.
There are several silvering kits available that aren't too expensive. I believe I got a small one for $40.00. The finishes these provide is much better than Spaz Stix in terms of how much they look like true chrome. The problem is that they are extremely difficult to put on evenly. Also, I could not find a clean coat that didn't destroy or at least discolor them. The silver finish is far too delicate to use without some sort of protective over coat. There are kits that come with special clear coats but these start at $400.00. That's too much just to experiment with.
Good for pistol props.
I don't like the tires personally I would have had the tires high gloss black
You know what? I think you're right. Looking at it now, the silver on the wheels draws the eye away from the body and makes the car look heavy. Leaving them gloss black, as you suggested, would have provided contrast, which would have enhanced the effect of both colors. Best of all, this is easily fixed. Next time the car is pulled out I'll repaint the tires with gloss black. Thanks for the great idea and commenting!
Hi Wayne. Excellent videos on chrome spray paint! I would like to achieve a decent chrome finish on a reproduction aluminum railroad emblem. Problem is that it's a sand cast so the surface is not mirror finish smooth. The local chrome shops says they'll charge about $500 dollars to polish the surface smooth and chrome it, Unfortunately that's beyond my budget. I'm thinking of trying the techniques you show with the Spaz Stix paint. Although I know it won't be perfect it may be close enough. I'd love to get your thoughts/suggestions. If you'd like to see a picture of the aluminum emblem I'm trying to apply a finish to - it is currently posted on ebay as item #221750037751 Thanks!
+Dave B Good luck! Sorry I didn't respond right away. For some reason RUclips has stopped sending me email notifications when someone comments on one of my videos.
+Wayne Schmidt Hi Wayne, I haven't tried it yet - was hoping to get your thoughts on whether it was worth trying since the surface being coated is not mirror smooth. You can see the item in ebay - just search for item 221750037751 and mouse over the picture for a zoomed in look that should show the texture. I will check back at least every week for your reply/thoughs. Thanks in advance! Dave
+Dave B Unless you prime the surface with a mirror smooth base coat, it will not come out shiny but a dull gray.
just send it to someone who does nickel plating ,
+turbotonic27 I've contacted several auto body shops and refinishers and the quote for a pinewood derby car, which is what I'm doing this for, averages $40. That's a little steep for me. Also, most plating services require and acid dip to clean the surface, which would dissolve the gloss base coat. Wood is also a problem for most of them. There is a water based silvering process that works great, but that's $50 per car.
Thanks for the comment!
Wayne Schmidt i mean how much have you wasted on spray cans and products trying to achieve that chrome finish ? could have spent it on nickel plating, also have you tried to polish it ? using fine grit sand paper, then buffing it to a mirror shine using the buffing wheel and polishing compound i just polished some aluminum rims to a mirror finish like this for cheap
+turbotonic27 I don't feel I wasted the money on testing all these paints because the fact is that it was a lot of fun. I'm the nerdy sort of guy who enjoys doing these types of comparisons. Also, by posting a video about it that has been viewed by almost 100,000 people I may have helped many of them find the paint they needed or saved them from having to replicate the experiment for themselves. I'd say that was worth the expense. As for the nickel plating, again, it wouldn't work for my particular application. The sanding/buffing/polishing process isn't applicable because as I already explained, this is for wood surfaces.
+Wayne Schmidt In case you still aren't convinced that nickel plating isn't an option, this Wikipedia article discusses the acid baths required to pretreat the surface to be plated, which would destroy the paint base coat and underlying wood: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroless_nickel_plating.
Wayne Schmidt sorry I thought your car was made of aluminium