@PoleBarnGarage I know you don't do new cars that much and don't want to waste money on a expensive OBD2 scanner, but I would recommend a BlueDriver OBD2 they are $100 Amazon and do everything you would need I just keep it in my vehicle. Anyway just wanted to throw that out there, an say thanks for the amazing content it's good to see a real normal person make great videos. Cause this is how I work on my own stuff and at my uncle's junkyard. Rock on man
The reason I love both channels so much because of 2 things. I can relate wayyy too much to these videos, I’ve been here anddd the sarcastic humor is exactly how I feel 😂
If its new enough to have an airbag its a "new" car... Most of us poor 80s/90s kids were still driving something from the '70s when these cars were brand new 😂 Granted even now when I could afford something nicer/newer I'd still glady take a mid 90s to mid 00s GM with a 3.8 over any of the trash they've built in the last 15 years.
The realest man on the ol you tube, not afraid to act how all of us act when working on cars. Sounds just like me when I have to work on my newer junk. 😂
Watching Dalton do maintenance on this car reminds me of myself anytime I work on anything😂 Except you are doing a better job and it’s entertaining to watch instead of just sad.
I can't wait to see the video where you do the rear brakes especially if they're the type of calipers where you have to rotate the Piston while forcing it in it's super fun😂😂😂
This was one of my favorite videos yet, I went to UTi to be an auto diesel mechanic in 1997 and all the instructors were old school mechanics and we were taught both old school and new at that time, so your channels are a must watch for me and this video was great. Thank you and keep it up
@@johnnymack8442 yeah, im happy theres those like Dalton and Kevin from Junk yard Digs and their friends sharing the knowledge on here about the old school stuff, wierd to think how foreign the old stuff is to younger kids
I have the same car. Mine has 204020 miles. It was stolen in 2016 and the numb skulls pushed it with a pick up. Tore up the rear bumper, damaged the trunk lid, destroyed the shifter and tried to force the ignition cylinder. Cops had it back withing a couple of hours due to my POS iPhone being in the car (we tracked it). This took place in Dearborn Michigan. All of that was repaired shortly after, but my security light stays on all the time now. Doesn't blink, just stays on. I replaced the ignition switch a few weeks ago and it is still on. It doesn't affect functionality, just a nuisance. Put a 'spanking new engine in it last month due to a rod issue. Man, it sure does run and drive great.
Doing those front hubs is easier if you push the CV axle in to give you more room to fit a socket. I normally use an implant and a wobbly bit even though you’re not supposed to use an impact (they say that for liability reasons, not because anyone has ever had a problem). You figured it out pretty well your first time. When the sensors get stuck, a good sized pry bar will usually pop them right out but your method works just fine. Usually you have to wham on the hub with a much bigger hammer to get them off, you got quite lucky that some light taps did the trick.
when I was a Saab mechanic it was an aluminium wheel bearing on a steel knuckle and we basically always resulted to the air chisel in the end to get them off
Het Dalton! The car may have had a misfire because of the coil problem which will cause an error code in the ECU (engine light). Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU. It might work.
Keep an eye on the stalling issue. It might be the crank position sensor. The 3800v6 fwd and rwd fversions do suffer from crank position issues. These may or may not turn on the " hand over all your money" light (aka the check engine light)on the dash. What will happen is that the engine runs fine until it is warm and then dies. It then will not start again until it is cold. It will start off randomly and then will start to happen all the time. Many a 3800 v6 engined car had to be helped into the dealer i worked for years ago because it would not stay running. Luckily it is pretty easy to replace. Pull crank pulley, unplug and replace sensor and bolt the pulley back up. Then pull the battery cable and leave off for 10mins. These 3800 are damn good engines and had not many issues. Only intake gaskets, crank sensors and coolant elbows
Preventive maintenance is the key to a long-lasting vehicle. Even the mundane everyday repairs is interesting when you tackle it Dalton. Hopefully she performs as good as you expect. Keep up the good work and the awesome videos dude 👍✌️🇺🇲
That 3800 unit is one of the best. I have one in a Park Avenue, that was well on its way to being almost leak free, right up until an uninsured person rear ended me. I will miss her, unless I can find another one....
Another great video Dalton! I just went through the same thing changing the speed sensor on my car. Watching your channel gives me motivation and encouragement to work on my own vehicles
I have to say using the sun visor mirror lights to illuminate your face is GENIUS. Also having recently gotten my daily new tires after the old ones shit the bed, this video is super relateable.
A nice little cheat for diagnosing coil packs...Turn off the lights and look for the fireworks...lol, sometimes revving the engine will reveal the culprit since many situations will only reveal themselves under load. Give it a shot, there's nothing to lose is if doesn't work...lol. Great video, thanks for sharing. Testing a wheel sensor is no different than testing an electronic pickup in a distributor. All it is, is a reluctor and a magnet. You can test them with a regular volt meter. Set the meter to DC volts, put the test leads on the wires, roll the wheel and see is the voltage goes up. The voltage will be small, but all you are looking for is a change.
This is the car that made me lose hope for modern cars, and it was also my childhood dream car. You should've seen my 13 year old face in 09 when I found out this was essentially a coupe version of the Lumina. I still dream about doing a RWD manual conversion on this thing, widening the fender 'humps', and somehow fitting a twin charged small block under the hood.
The struggle is real!!! I just did the same maintenance on my 06 Envoy and it is the exact same set up. What a pain in the @$$!!! That axle nut calls for something like 200 ft lbs of torque on it
As always, love your videos. Now that I’m in our new home can’t wait to be able to work on my own vehicles again instead of bringing them to get serviced.
Power steering probably got noisy cause you were turning the wheels left and right without the engine running while doing the hubs and brakes. Pretty common. Should go away after a few full lock to lock turns (purge the air out). Great vid glad it worked out for you .
For future reference, if you have to do front bearings on this model GM again and the back half of the bearing gets stuck in there, which they almost always do, a 3/8ths ratchet extension and a hammer, hit it out from the back it works wonders!
I buy all my suspension and brake parts from Detroit Axle and have for as long as I can remember. Nearly everything they sell is 10 year warranty and they back it up. Are they super heavy duty, no... However, they are perfect for normal daily driving. I just bought a cheap ass, but REALLY nice 99 Expedition. Cheap because everything in the front end makes every noise possible and I'll be buying a complete front end kit from them. This is not an advertisement, just a very long term happy customer.
You probably know this already, but......treat 'modern' cars with engine management as you would a television or VCR that you're repairing, i.e., don't be afraid to whip out the soldering iron. A good example is fuseboxes, these can acquire dry solder joints over the years. You can dismantle them and renew the solder joints to re-establish the contact for a specific circuit. A bad fuse box exhibits weird issues, such as one circuit earthing through another. For items like those plug in coil packs and connectors, have some good quality contact cleaner and a small wire brush, to clean up the contacts (battery disconnected first - ask me how I know!?). Another good example, control modules and relays. The Jaguar XJ40 has a set of control modules at each corner, controlling the lights for that specific corner. These are usually rife with cracked solder joints. A session with the soldering iron usually fixes them. I've also had success dismantling relays and renewing broken solder joints. Yes, if a total faff...but, it saves me money plus makes for some 'truly great*' youtube content for all of my 7 viewers.
I have a 06 monte SS. I have discovered with that and a 3800 grand prix. That once you start getting misfires. Don't put in iridium plugs. Put in platinum plugs. On that 3800 I put in brand new iridium plugs and it would not start. Would run on thr old plugs or platinum. A little copper crease on the threads won't hurt.
I work on my 01 Silverado a lot. Can confirm that the 'Parts Cannon' is the only way to fix things. Could be this, or that, screw it....replace it all.
On those axle nuts it is really important that you torque them down to the correct spec. If you don't the wheel bearing will fail prematurely and you will be through this all over again soon.
4:08 GM speed sensors built into the wheel hub and wheel bearing with CV axles has to be the stupidest bean counter garbage I've had to deal with on my van. Good news, you can still buy the brake dust shields that rust away into dust right after the warranty was up and the replacement speed sensor pigtails these days come with all the clips you need to tack it up to the dust shield and control arm and engine cradle. Another great use for the Solder Seal connectors or whatever brand it was you had a big variety pack of. Now that' I've replaced my right front hub/bearing/speed sensor three times I can do it a FOURTH time and replace the dust shield and maybe JUST MAYBE the speed sensor wire won't unalive itself wrapping around the CV boot again. Remind me while I have it all apart again sometime soon (if I ever get the damn thing back from the transmission shop) to also get my eyeballs on the oil pressure sensor wiring and see if I nicked it somewhere because I'm pretty sure, "verify the rockers have oil flow and then cut the damned driver door speaker wire so it shuts the f up" is not the correct way of repairing a constant low oil pressure warning light and chime.
for mice that love chewing on "modern" soybean wire insulation, mix a little peppermint oil with water and spray the wires under the hood every couple of months
Just replaced my wheel speed sensor recently. I ignored it for a long time until i couldn't. It kept triggering the ABS/Traction control constantly to the point that it was in limp mode the entire time. My experience was pretty similar to yours. My speed sensor pigtail was connected under the air box. That makes sense. At least GM put that one near the upper control arm. I too loathe modern vehicles.
The statement about knowing how to take out and put bolts back in is exactly what I have been doing for years to my vehicles, 20+ years old and people are always assuming I'm some sort of mechanic. Nah man I am just poor and drive a tow truck lol
Never use an impact to tighten a wheel hub Dalton. Always torque or do i by hand. You'll over tighten that bearing and it will be singing in a few hours.😊 Awesome video as always 😊
Haha, your commentary was 99.9% identical to mine when I removed the front hubs on my 2010 Dodge Journey. Honestly, I think I had an easier go at it...I mentally prepared for it.
I've had this exact car since 08. It's so easy to work on. The iridium plugs will last about 100k miles. I had a mouse nest in the same place. It chewed one of the injector wires. The speed sensor issue is usually a broken wire near the wheel. I also have pads and rotors from Detroit Axle
Just make sure you watch the head gasket's on that 3.8 L36. I had a 02 impala / monte carlo that suffered from constant head gasket failures. From what i read at the time when i had mine it was a common issue with that platform.
Lucky you had that bolt laying around for the wheel bearing.. spent a day going from lowes to home depot to finally ace but you know I had to convert from grade 8 to stainless
I love watching videos on your monte. I drive a 01 lesabre as my beater. Mine also has the abs and traction off lights, when it gets warm out ill have to check it out. I do agree. Old cars were so simple and they worked fine. When my dad gets old ill be getting his 76 laguna. I cant wait to work on it.
11:10 yeah, used all that Detroit Axle stuff for the Uplander, brake stuff, control arms, ball joints, tie rods inner and outer, sway bar end links, the whole thing. Can't really complain about the parts, they did include all the hardware I needed even cotter pins. Of course I don't expect it to last forever, but if all goes well I'll be able to afford AC Delco stuff next time it's needed. And since I bothered to grease and antiseize things it'll come apart a LOT easier now that I'm not in salted road hell Ohio anymore.
Dalton just subscribed to your second Channel liked it and did the bell ! I'm in Western New York my wife and my son are in Goodman Missouri back in May I drove down there would a used 3.8 V6 like what you're working on to put in her 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix I hope you never have to change a motor in one of those because there is an invisible Bolt on the backside of the motor where you can't see it needless to say it did not go back in because we just pretended it wasn't there! You and Kevin are the best I've been doing my best to binge watch and share your videos with everyone I know thank you for the automotive knowledge and the laughs!
just a super friendly FYI ... next time you do one dont use the impact when putting the axle shaft nut back on ... if needed only draw it up very lightly with the impact and then set torque with it on the ground using a torque wrench.. a impact will prematurely ruin your bearing and you will be performing the same practice replacing the entire unit again in the near future
That looked way easier then your FB posts made it seem it would be… you handled the calculator like an expert, we may have to start calling you… an engineer
Looks like original coil packs. My lesabre had them with the numbers stamped on for the plug numbers. Replacement coil packs didnt have numbers on them. Found that moisture was the enemy of these things. Big puddle killed one of my coil packs. Replaced them all. Runs very well now. Great video. That motor will go Camry miles if maintained.
damn good vid ,i have the same rounded off bolt , have the wheel bearing for two years ,bought both and put the drinkers side on but that damn bolt. Now seeing how you handled it I am going to get mine done thanks
We have the RWD version of the 3.8 here in Aus commodores. Coilpacks and the dfu module (what the coils sit on) are notorious for crapping themselves... other than that, they're almost indestructible
They recommend opening the bleeder screw before collapsing the piston into the caliper on abs brakes something about forcing brakes fluid back into the abs pump can cause problems.
Just had to replace the water pump on my 2014 Enclave...gotta keep the 185K miles grocery getter running. No way am I paying shop rates. RUclips University Degree in hand...nothing I can't screw up as good as anyone else! Always love your videos. Kinda like watching a train wreck...just can't look away! :)
In the case that abs light does come on replace the harness (2 wire) that goes over the lower control arm left or right, before it clips into that new wheel bearing you installed
I've done a lot of troubleshooting on the 3800. That box the coils bolt to is the ignition control module and it grounds through the mounting bracket behind it. You can fix most ignition problems by taking it off, cleaning that bracket and the back of the module and putting it back on. A bad coil will result in a dead miss on two cylinders since it's a waste spark system so it will be extremely obvious. Equally obvious, when that module goes bad an alien looking goo will escape from it and be found beneath the coils. As long as the goo stays inside the box it's generally still good. These things are super bulletproof, make 0 horsepower, and will run forever. (also respond very well to boost.............)
Another thing that popped into my head was if you're having temp issues it could be causing it to run super rich which could be why it died. It may need a temp sending unit or the thermostat you mentioned to make the all knowing computer happy.
I owned the previous gen Monte. Slow as hell with the 3.1, but previous owner put the Z34 body kit on it so it looked good. Great car till the rear trailing arm mounts rotted out of the body, then it was off the the junkyard.
I would absolutely love to hear more of this sarcastic tone directed toward something like a BMW where even the brake pads have sensors in them because Germany
Those coils and the ignition control module which they connect and bolt to are a classic failure point. Thankfully GM on the 3800 and later versions of the 60° V6 (pick and choose your flavor of size) put them up top where it's easy. On my 90 Grand Prix, they are below the front manifold and bolted directly to the front of engine, which burns the Ignition Control Module up and coils. Plus, only genuine GM parts will last. The cheaper Chinesium controle module and coils had less than 5k miles and they died💀💀
Dalton, I’ve been using Detroit Axle parts on my wife’s daily driver for a couple years and haven’t had any issues with the quality of the parts. Most of them came the next day from the Jungle Web Site with the Prime subscription. I’ve done wheel bearing assemblies, rotors, and pads. But since doing that I’ve found out that Auto Zone warranties brake pads as long as they are worn evenly. I’m all about saving money on parts where I can as long as it can stay safe for the family. Love the videos and your shenanigans.
You might do an engine flush on her. The new ethanol fuels with sugar in em gunk up engines more. Especially around the newer low compression piston rings. Pure gasoline used to act more as a solvent. Maybe do a compression check first just to see if there is some uneven compression, then you might see a difference by doing the flush. It could also have some gaskets leaking. An easy fix for that, but maybe a temporary solution is to use some AT-205.
2o min on daily driver, I think vice grip has a green vetted he might sell ya cheap. It's a jem as long as you don't no nevermind it's 5 different greens and he probably paid to much for it. It made the yellow one look like a jem.
3800? I believe? If n it is you got yourself arguably one of if not the best engine gm put out. I had a GTP Pontiac that had the entire ZZP catalog on it. She was turnt up😂. Car I traded for n traded off. Change your trans fluid n you got a long lasting rig.
@polebarngarage If you turn the key on and flash the parking lights 3 times it'll clear that low tire alert. If you put the gas pedal to the floor 3 times it resets the oil life.
"Do not think for one minute that I won't put that screwed up bolt back in." I'm sure amyone who's worked on cars, especially suspension related work, has said and/or done this at least once. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do!
What a truly authentic and riveting video that literally all humans and most mammals should watch
Agreed
@PoleBarnGarage I know you don't do new cars that much and don't want to waste money on a expensive OBD2 scanner, but I would recommend a BlueDriver OBD2 they are $100 Amazon and do everything you would need I just keep it in my vehicle. Anyway just wanted to throw that out there, an say thanks for the amazing content it's good to see a real normal person make great videos. Cause this is how I work on my own stuff and at my uncle's junkyard. Rock on man
Good thing I'm watching with my dog
I take it, it didn't break down on your way to work? I'd call that fixed lol
Humans are mammals but great video
At 7:30 he says "why why is it like this!" every mechanic felt that 😅
i get so excited when I see you post. Almost like "junk yard wars" circa 1999 feels lol
That needs to come back but RUclips style.
@@tcanthony2I’m sure we could make that happen!
@@BuffsGarage count me in! I always wanted to that show. I was too young but my brain thinks like those guys.
@@BuffsGarageI’m down
Was a big fan of that show but I heard some of it was fake, key items were planted in the junkyard for the teams
Glad to see that im not the only one that goes old school with the old pad and big betty C clamp
The reason I love both channels so much because of 2 things. I can relate wayyy too much to these videos, I’ve been here anddd the sarcastic humor is exactly how I feel 😂
If its new enough to have an airbag its a "new" car... Most of us poor 80s/90s kids were still driving something from the '70s when these cars were brand new 😂
Granted even now when I could afford something nicer/newer I'd still glady take a mid 90s to mid 00s GM with a 3.8 over any of the trash they've built in the last 15 years.
This man is unbelievable smart and must have 1000iq and the editing who ever did it is out of this world amazing
The realest man on the ol you tube, not afraid to act how all of us act when working on cars. Sounds just like me when I have to work on my newer junk. 😂
Watching Dalton do maintenance on this car reminds me of myself anytime I work on anything😂 Except you are doing a better job and it’s entertaining to watch instead of just sad.
Those are fantastic cars. I had an 04 impala. That 3800 was great for cruising. Got over 300k miles before I got rid of it.
I can't wait to see the video where you do the rear brakes especially if they're the type of calipers where you have to rotate the Piston while forcing it in it's super fun😂😂😂
I have an 03 with the v6, and it’s probably my favorite car I’ve ever owned.
shout out to that Pittsburgh 1/2 extendable ratchet from harbor freight. Very handy and awesome tool. highly recommend
This was one of my favorite videos yet, I went to UTi to be an auto diesel mechanic in 1997 and all the instructors were old school mechanics and we were taught both old school and new at that time, so your channels are a must watch for me and this video was great. Thank you and keep it up
I am the same way anything newer then around 96 is a new car to me .
@@johnnymack8442 yeah, im happy theres those like Dalton and Kevin from Junk yard Digs and their friends sharing the knowledge on here about the old school stuff, wierd to think how foreign the old stuff is to younger kids
@@Chris_K_907I'm 16 and know more about old cars than new. I even own a 50s car.
I have the same car. Mine has 204020 miles. It was stolen in 2016 and the numb skulls pushed it with a pick up. Tore up the rear bumper, damaged the trunk lid, destroyed the shifter and tried to force the ignition cylinder. Cops had it back withing a couple of hours due to my POS iPhone being in the car (we tracked it). This took place in Dearborn Michigan. All of that was repaired shortly after, but my security light stays on all the time now. Doesn't blink, just stays on. I replaced the ignition switch a few weeks ago and it is still on. It doesn't affect functionality, just a nuisance.
Put a 'spanking new engine in it last month due to a rod issue. Man, it sure does run and drive great.
Doing those front hubs is easier if you push the CV axle in to give you more room to fit a socket. I normally use an implant and a wobbly bit even though you’re not supposed to use an impact (they say that for liability reasons, not because anyone has ever had a problem).
You figured it out pretty well your first time. When the sensors get stuck, a good sized pry bar will usually pop them right out but your method works just fine. Usually you have to wham on the hub with a much bigger hammer to get them off, you got quite lucky that some light taps did the trick.
when I was a Saab mechanic it was an aluminium wheel bearing on a steel knuckle and we basically always resulted to the air chisel in the end to get them off
Well…. I guess I’ll watch just about everything 😂. I don’t even want to work on my own wheel hubs, but here I am watching it…. My god…
I miss working on those old GM FWD cars. Super easy to wrench on and parts were cheap.
Het Dalton! The car may have had a misfire because of the coil problem which will cause an error code in the ECU (engine light). Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU. It might work.
It's a old GM it should re set the eml
W body gm cars, they are truly a joy to work on.
I always use an old pad and a C Clamp 🗜️
Or the big a$$ channel locks if the C clamp is missing.
Wait, Common Sense and Precautionary Maintenance, What channel is this? Thanks fer sharing. Real Hot Rodding fer Real Folks.
Hey hey early squad gonna be a good night with some PBG goodness
Keep an eye on the stalling issue. It might be the crank position sensor. The 3800v6 fwd and rwd fversions do suffer from crank position issues. These may or may not turn on the " hand over all your money" light (aka the check engine light)on the dash. What will happen is that the engine runs fine until it is warm and then dies. It then will not start again until it is cold. It will start off randomly and then will start to happen all the time. Many a 3800 v6 engined car had to be helped into the dealer i worked for years ago because it would not stay running. Luckily it is pretty easy to replace. Pull crank pulley, unplug and replace sensor and bolt the pulley back up. Then pull the battery cable and leave off for 10mins. These 3800 are damn good engines and had not many issues. Only intake gaskets, crank sensors and coolant elbows
Preventive maintenance is the key to a long-lasting vehicle. Even the mundane everyday repairs is interesting when you tackle it Dalton. Hopefully she performs as good as you expect. Keep up the good work and the awesome videos dude 👍✌️🇺🇲
Ahh yes, the w-body wheel bearing change. Don't worry Dalton, after changing them out 5-6 times, you'll get used to it.
That 3800 unit is one of the best. I have one in a Park Avenue, that was well on its way to being almost leak free, right up until an uninsured person rear ended me.
I will miss her, unless I can find another one....
Only you could make that maintenance entertaining.
People love to watch suffering
@@outsidethebarn I just think you are entertaining because you are funny. That last line that you censored made me laugh out loud.
Another great video Dalton! I just went through the same thing changing the speed sensor on my car. Watching your channel gives me motivation and encouragement to work on my own vehicles
I have to say using the sun visor mirror lights to illuminate your face is GENIUS.
Also having recently gotten my daily new tires after the old ones shit the bed, this video is super relateable.
A nice little cheat for diagnosing coil packs...Turn off the lights and look for the fireworks...lol, sometimes revving the engine will reveal the culprit since many situations will only reveal themselves under load. Give it a shot, there's nothing to lose is if doesn't work...lol. Great video, thanks for sharing. Testing a wheel sensor is no different than testing an electronic pickup in a distributor. All it is, is a reluctor and a magnet. You can test them with a regular volt meter. Set the meter to DC volts, put the test leads on the wires, roll the wheel and see is the voltage goes up. The voltage will be small, but all you are looking for is a change.
just grab'em with your hand you'll know immediately if one is discharging
This guy has my disposition when wrenching.
Mine too but without all the cussing.
I feel you with nothing coming off. Every bolt on my truck is rusted and takes me longer hammering than actually putting the new part in.
Hey, Wes knows all about the ele. stuff. Might give him a shout. Thanks😁
Who
This is the car that made me lose hope for modern cars, and it was also my childhood dream car.
You should've seen my 13 year old face in 09 when I found out this was essentially a coupe version of the Lumina.
I still dream about doing a RWD manual conversion on this thing, widening the fender 'humps', and somehow fitting a twin charged small block under the hood.
Good idea to clean air sensors and any other electrical connections as general maintenance too
The struggle is real!!! I just did the same maintenance on my 06 Envoy and it is the exact same set up. What a pain in the @$$!!! That axle nut calls for something like 200 ft lbs of torque on it
As always, love your videos. Now that I’m in our new home can’t wait to be able to work on my own vehicles again instead of bringing them to get serviced.
Daily maintenance is what it's all about!
I agree, that these newer cars SUCK to work on!
Power steering probably got noisy cause you were turning the wheels left and right without the engine running while doing the hubs and brakes. Pretty common. Should go away after a few full lock to lock turns (purge the air out). Great vid glad it worked out for you .
For future reference, if you have to do front bearings on this model GM again and the back half of the bearing gets stuck in there, which they almost always do, a 3/8ths ratchet extension and a hammer, hit it out from the back it works wonders!
How interesting, outside the barn is still inside the barn.
I buy all my suspension and brake parts from Detroit Axle and have for as long as I can remember. Nearly everything they sell is 10 year warranty and they back it up. Are they super heavy duty, no... However, they are perfect for normal daily driving. I just bought a cheap ass, but REALLY nice 99 Expedition. Cheap because everything in the front end makes every noise possible and I'll be buying a complete front end kit from them.
This is not an advertisement, just a very long term happy customer.
You probably know this already, but......treat 'modern' cars with engine management as you would a television or VCR that you're repairing, i.e., don't be afraid to whip out the soldering iron. A good example is fuseboxes, these can acquire dry solder joints over the years. You can dismantle them and renew the solder joints to re-establish the contact for a specific circuit. A bad fuse box exhibits weird issues, such as one circuit earthing through another. For items like those plug in coil packs and connectors, have some good quality contact cleaner and a small wire brush, to clean up the contacts (battery disconnected first - ask me how I know!?). Another good example, control modules and relays. The Jaguar XJ40 has a set of control modules at each corner, controlling the lights for that specific corner. These are usually rife with cracked solder joints. A session with the soldering iron usually fixes them. I've also had success dismantling relays and renewing broken solder joints. Yes, if a total faff...but, it saves me money plus makes for some 'truly great*' youtube content for all of my 7 viewers.
Chevy is known for needing an oddball tool for things. I had a 94 cavalier and needed a specific torx to remove the caliper.
I have a 06 monte SS. I have discovered with that and a 3800 grand prix. That once you start getting misfires. Don't put in iridium plugs. Put in platinum plugs. On that 3800 I put in brand new iridium plugs and it would not start. Would run on thr old plugs or platinum. A little copper crease on the threads won't hurt.
I work on my 01 Silverado a lot. Can confirm that the 'Parts Cannon' is the only way to fix things. Could be this, or that, screw it....replace it all.
On those axle nuts it is really important that you torque them down to the correct spec. If you don't the wheel bearing will fail prematurely and you will be through this all over again soon.
Would love to see you do something with a "modern"car! Maybe doing like a 5.3 ls swap. would be cool!
You'd be surprised at how reliable some of the early 2000s cars are even the shittiest most disposable cars will surprise you from time to time
4:08 GM speed sensors built into the wheel hub and wheel bearing with CV axles has to be the stupidest bean counter garbage I've had to deal with on my van. Good news, you can still buy the brake dust shields that rust away into dust right after the warranty was up and the replacement speed sensor pigtails these days come with all the clips you need to tack it up to the dust shield and control arm and engine cradle. Another great use for the Solder Seal connectors or whatever brand it was you had a big variety pack of. Now that' I've replaced my right front hub/bearing/speed sensor three times I can do it a FOURTH time and replace the dust shield and maybe JUST MAYBE the speed sensor wire won't unalive itself wrapping around the CV boot again. Remind me while I have it all apart again sometime soon (if I ever get the damn thing back from the transmission shop) to also get my eyeballs on the oil pressure sensor wiring and see if I nicked it somewhere because I'm pretty sure, "verify the rockers have oil flow and then cut the damned driver door speaker wire so it shuts the f up" is not the correct way of repairing a constant low oil pressure warning light and chime.
Basically how I learned to work on my Cherokee, take it apart and figure it out
for mice that love chewing on "modern" soybean wire insulation, mix a little peppermint oil with water and spray the wires under the hood every couple of months
Just replaced my wheel speed sensor recently. I ignored it for a long time until i couldn't. It kept triggering the ABS/Traction control constantly to the point that it was in limp mode the entire time.
My experience was pretty similar to yours. My speed sensor pigtail was connected under the air box. That makes sense. At least GM put that one near the upper control arm.
I too loathe modern vehicles.
I didnt ven know you had this channel, great video.
The statement about knowing how to take out and put bolts back in is exactly what I have been doing for years to my vehicles, 20+ years old and people are always assuming I'm some sort of mechanic. Nah man I am just poor and drive a tow truck lol
Always been the same for me.
Never use an impact to tighten a wheel hub Dalton. Always torque or do i by hand. You'll over tighten that bearing and it will be singing in a few hours.😊
Awesome video as always 😊
It's fine 🤷
@@outsidethebarnok.........way to new!!!....
Too scary!!!!!
Bad men want to charge me 70 bucks an hour.....
😱😱😱😱😱🥺🥺
Haha, your commentary was 99.9% identical to mine when I removed the front hubs on my 2010 Dodge Journey. Honestly, I think I had an easier go at it...I mentally prepared for it.
Dalton I know this is supposed to be your daily but I have an idea. Black tractor paint and a set of Dale Earnhardt racing decals
Uh..no, I'd rather drive a wrecked shit heap 😂
I've had this exact car since 08. It's so easy to work on. The iridium plugs will last about 100k miles. I had a mouse nest in the same place. It chewed one of the injector wires. The speed sensor issue is usually a broken wire near the wheel. I also have pads and rotors from Detroit Axle
As a meat popsicle, I thoroughly enjoy your banter good sir.
That's disgusting 😂
Banter not batter 😂
Just make sure you watch the head gasket's on that 3.8 L36. I had a 02 impala / monte carlo that suffered from constant head gasket failures. From what i read at the time when i had mine it was a common issue with that platform.
Intake gaskets were a problem also
Prob was overheated and head was warped, happens alot when overheated.
I've always heard lower intake, not heads personally.
Hmmmm even with a Party pulley i couldn't ever pop HG on my old S/C 3.8L
I had a 01 it was a turd lol 3 motors, the last one hydrolocked the engine with coolant. Will say it was easy to work on relatively.
Doing a newer car I see. Right on keep up the videos I watch both of your channels I live in kcmo so we are almost neighbors lol
Lucky you had that bolt laying around for the wheel bearing.. spent a day going from lowes to home depot to finally ace but you know I had to convert from grade 8 to stainless
Been there many times. Detroit axle wasn’t bad for me to deal with. Warranties wheel bearings I bought.
I love watching videos on your monte. I drive a 01 lesabre as my beater. Mine also has the abs and traction off lights, when it gets warm out ill have to check it out. I do agree. Old cars were so simple and they worked fine. When my dad gets old ill be getting his 76 laguna. I cant wait to work on it.
11:10 yeah, used all that Detroit Axle stuff for the Uplander, brake stuff, control arms, ball joints, tie rods inner and outer, sway bar end links, the whole thing. Can't really complain about the parts, they did include all the hardware I needed even cotter pins. Of course I don't expect it to last forever, but if all goes well I'll be able to afford AC Delco stuff next time it's needed. And since I bothered to grease and antiseize things it'll come apart a LOT easier now that I'm not in salted road hell Ohio anymore.
You could open bleeder when you push piston back into caliper. If you want too.
Dalton just subscribed to your second Channel liked it and did the bell ! I'm in Western New York my wife and my son are in Goodman Missouri back in May I drove down there would a used 3.8 V6 like what you're working on to put in her 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix I hope you never have to change a motor in one of those because there is an invisible Bolt on the backside of the motor where you can't see it needless to say it did not go back in because we just pretended it wasn't there! You and Kevin are the best I've been doing my best to binge watch and share your videos with everyone I know thank you for the automotive knowledge and the laughs!
Even when it was brand new my dad Chevy pickup use less oil when we used conventional or synthetic blend instead of the full synthetic
Thanks for another ,Brother !
just a super friendly FYI ... next time you do one dont use the impact when putting the axle shaft nut back on ... if needed only draw it up very lightly with the impact and then set torque with it on the ground using a torque wrench.. a impact will prematurely ruin your bearing and you will be performing the same practice replacing the entire unit again in the near future
I just picked up one of these fine automobiles today for the new beater.
That looked way easier then your FB posts made it seem it would be… you handled the calculator like an expert, we may have to start calling you… an engineer
I cut quite a bit, gotta keep it entertaining
Looks like original coil packs. My lesabre had them with the numbers stamped on for the plug numbers. Replacement coil packs didnt have numbers on them. Found that moisture was the enemy of these things. Big puddle killed one of my coil packs. Replaced them all. Runs very well now. Great video. That motor will go Camry miles if maintained.
damn good vid ,i have the same rounded off bolt , have the wheel bearing for two years ,bought both and put the drinkers side on but that damn bolt. Now seeing how you handled it I am going to get mine done thanks
We have the RWD version of the 3.8 here in Aus commodores. Coilpacks and the dfu module (what the coils sit on) are notorious for crapping themselves... other than that, they're almost indestructible
"Is it fixed? F*** if i know".... i literally laughed out loud 😂
They recommend opening the bleeder screw before collapsing the piston into the caliper on abs brakes something about forcing brakes fluid back into the abs pump can cause problems.
I've done a few, never had any issues
I've heard that but never had an issue yet leaving the bleeders closed.
Detroit axle I thought was always pretty good I’ve always had good luck with them
Just had to replace the water pump on my 2014 Enclave...gotta keep the 185K miles grocery getter running. No way am I paying shop rates. RUclips University Degree in hand...nothing I can't screw up as good as anyone else! Always love your videos. Kinda like watching a train wreck...just can't look away! :)
In the case that abs light does come on replace the harness (2 wire) that goes over the lower control arm left or right, before it clips into that new wheel bearing you installed
I've done a lot of troubleshooting on the 3800. That box the coils bolt to is the ignition control module and it grounds through the mounting bracket behind it. You can fix most ignition problems by taking it off, cleaning that bracket and the back of the module and putting it back on. A bad coil will result in a dead miss on two cylinders since it's a waste spark system so it will be extremely obvious. Equally obvious, when that module goes bad an alien looking goo will escape from it and be found beneath the coils. As long as the goo stays inside the box it's generally still good. These things are super bulletproof, make 0 horsepower, and will run forever. (also respond very well to boost.............)
Another thing that popped into my head was if you're having temp issues it could be causing it to run super rich which could be why it died. It may need a temp sending unit or the thermostat you mentioned to make the all knowing computer happy.
I owned the previous gen Monte. Slow as hell with the 3.1, but previous owner put the Z34 body kit on it so it looked good. Great car till the rear trailing arm mounts rotted out of the body, then it was off the the junkyard.
I would absolutely love to hear more of this sarcastic tone directed toward something like a BMW where even the brake pads have sensors in them because Germany
I would never own one lol
Never had one those come out in pieces!!!
Those coils and the ignition control module which they connect and bolt to are a classic failure point. Thankfully GM on the 3800 and later versions of the 60° V6 (pick and choose your flavor of size) put them up top where it's easy.
On my 90 Grand Prix, they are below the front manifold and bolted directly to the front of engine, which burns the Ignition Control Module up and coils. Plus, only genuine GM parts will last. The cheaper Chinesium controle module and coils had less than 5k miles and they died💀💀
I like it when Dalton Act like he doesn't know how to do something😂❤
I would never pay him to to ruin I mean work on my car
Like your alfalfa hair dude. You working on then Monte Carlo .
Dalton, I’ve been using Detroit Axle parts on my wife’s daily driver for a couple years and haven’t had any issues with the quality of the parts. Most of them came the next day from the Jungle Web Site with the Prime subscription. I’ve done wheel bearing assemblies, rotors, and pads. But since doing that I’ve found out that Auto Zone warranties brake pads as long as they are worn evenly. I’m all about saving money on parts where I can as long as it can stay safe for the family.
Love the videos and your shenanigans.
You might do an engine flush on her. The new ethanol fuels with sugar in em gunk up engines more. Especially around the newer low compression piston rings. Pure gasoline used to act more as a solvent.
Maybe do a compression check first just to see if there is some uneven compression, then you might see a difference by doing the flush.
It could also have some gaskets leaking. An easy fix for that, but maybe a temporary solution is to use some AT-205.
Bro, just rebuild the rusty stuff with silver galv! Easyyyyyy buckets! 😊
2o min on daily driver, I think vice grip has a green vetted he might sell ya cheap. It's a jem as long as you don't no nevermind it's 5 different greens and he probably paid to much for it. It made the yellow one look like a jem.
3800? I believe? If n it is you got yourself arguably one of if not the best engine gm put out. I had a GTP Pontiac that had the entire ZZP catalog on it. She was turnt up😂. Car I traded for n traded off. Change your trans fluid n you got a long lasting rig.
Invest in a set of turbo socket set. Best rounded bolt/nut remover on the market imo
@polebarngarage If you turn the key on and flash the parking lights 3 times it'll clear that low tire alert. If you put the gas pedal to the floor 3 times it resets the oil life.
"Do not think for one minute that I won't put that screwed up bolt back in." I'm sure amyone who's worked on cars, especially suspension related work, has said and/or done this at least once. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do!
Very interesting 🤔 content. Good luck one an all 😅.
Next time you hit up a u pull it yard you can get some "new" bolts jaaaag style also i think your ps pump identifies as a ford unit
Looks like a typical type 2 Saginaw to me, looked familiar at least lol
You have made a vid of my life story!