Speedmaster heads Report Card on my next to stock 360 Plymouth Duster
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- 1 Corinthians 9:24 Know ye not that they which run in a race run all, but one receiveth the prize? So run, that ye may obtain.
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Just recently got me a 73 duster. So I appreciate your videos. Helps give me ideas of what I want to do. I know life gets busy but these videos leave me in anticipation of the next one!! Keep up the good content!!
I look forward to seeing your videos and I am supposed that you don't have 80,000 subs because you have some really awesome videos and you're one of my favorites 👍🏻😁👌
I’ve been following your Duster builds for a few years on the forum and videos, very impressive! Yeah, you need some real drag gears, like 3.23s! Oh, and a Go Pro! lol Great job, keep up the good work!
3.23 ain't "real drag gears", son!😂 My best buddy ran 4.30s on the street with his 64 Dodge, with an 11:1, roller cammed, tunnel rammed 440. I ran both 3.91s and 4.10s in my 68 Charger. 3.23 is better than 2.76, but still very mild, you could drive those across the USA.
@@donellmuniz590 It was just a joke! 3.23s would seem like ‘drag gears’ compared to the 2.45s and 2.76s he usually runs in his Dusters!
A stock 360 4ddl cam is what the Chevy guys call an RV cam. And, in the early 80’s Comp Cams came out with an amsymetric lover design the has a fast opening ram and a gentle closing ramp to get the air fuel moving faster like a large cam would, but still be gentle on the valve train and resist bouncing. So Comp put together several engines with their HE268 cam. That stood for High Energy, with 268 degrees of duration at .050” lift, the standard for cams. I don’t remember all of the specific power levels but they started with the Small Block Chevy, 351W Ford, AMC 304, which I think they should have used a 360 and pretty much everyone’s most popular Small Blocks. A year later they finally advertised their HE268 for the Mopar 360, which made slightly more than one HP per cubic inch. This was the ONLY engine that performed that well. And it used factory small port heads with 1.88 intakes and 1.60 exhausts. By all accounts the 350 Chevy should have mopped the floor with it, having bigger valves of either 1.94” or 2.02” on the intake side and bigger ports on both the intake and exhaust, but it just couldn’t pull it off. The difference? I think it was the Rod Length to Stroke ratio. That was 1.63-1 for the 350 and 1.71-1 for the Mopar, clearly a better ratio! I read an article a long time ago where a Chevy 327 was built with 5.5” rods and then with 6.5” rods. Everything else was as close as possible, including reciprocating weight. They ran the tests with stock intake, stock heads and a 2bbl carb, then rain it with a decent set of aftermarket heads, dual plane intake and 4bbl Holley. The long rod made more power in each configuration, and the biggest difference in horsepower in all four tests showed that the long rods made the biggest difference with a restrictive intake, heads and carb. So that might explain why the Mopar made the best horsepower of any small block tested.
Greatly enjoy your videos and knowledge sharing. Looking forward to more on the D150 project (I'm biased because I have one too).
That car is doing great for such a small cam and stock converter. Id bet money that you could pick up a tenth with the TF-2 Transgo shift kit. Great video! I got my knock off go pro from amazon for 60$. It's an Akaso brand.
Quick for what it is. Awesome car man.
With your internals picking up 2 tenths just by swapping the heads is something I'd be super happy about. I'll have to scoop some of those up next time they're on sale.
a guy can hardly put new guides, valves, springs, retainers and locks in a set of cast heads for 730 bucks, so I thought "why not go with better flowing aluminum heads"?
@Henry Meynier I hear ya, and understand. But our homes, garages and cars are filled with China products. We've outsourced for so many years and it's just the facts.
@Henry Meynier I know. I got my intakes 40% off so my SM intakes were only 135 bucks, and these SM heads fully loaded were only 730 bucks, all shipped to my door.
@@318willrun That's incredible! Even SB Chevy aluminum heads ain't THAT cheap! Did ya bolt em on straight out of the box, or did they need work?
@@donellmuniz590 Just did a home inspection is all. I did a video on what I did....
I raced a Super Stock 340 Duster in the 70's. 11.50's @ 120mph. Your times are respectable for what you have invested. Get some 3.91 or 4.10 gears and she'll come alive! That 904 trans won't take much HP unless you modify it. I ran a 727 with a 9" J converter. 5.13 gears. Not for the street obviously!😂 I sold my car to a friend and he tubbed it and put on 13" slicks and went 11.20's!
That's pretty quick for a basically stock 360!
Cool review you know what time it is now. Time to get rid of the baby bump stick and time to put in a monster chop chop stick so that the dragon can breathe and blow some flames out 🤣👌 but yeah now I'm ready to see ya swap cams and screw in studs and aluminum roller rockers and I believe that u will drop another 4 or 5 tenths. I enjoy watching your videos and once some of your videos gets out you will pick up alot of subs because you have some really good content and a lot of people can learn something from you. I like it when you put a part on and see how much it helps you vs. Tossing a bunch of parts because I like to see how much each one helps out on speed. I love your channel and I can't wait to see more out of ya . Maybe the cam and roller rockers will be next 😁👍🏻 look forward to watching your next one bud great content
Screw in studs? This ain't no Chevy, bud. Ain't a Magnum either. It's an old school LA motor, with shaft rockers like God and Dick Landy intended. No studs.
That's about 30 extra hp, good gain considering that you still need to fine tune the new combination.👍
904 Shift Kit... The shift kit from Direct Connection years ago was a small box containing a trans pan gasket, a piece of 3/4" electrical conduit, and a Xeroxed piece of paper with very short instructions. I have lost that paper, as I had the length of conduit written on it. But basically, drop the pan, drop the valve body, remove the accumulator piston, toss the spring behind it, and replace the spring with that piece of conduit that blocks the piston in the down position. Then reassemble. On the side of the valve body is a screw that adjusts line pressure. Turn that screw all the way in. Finish reassembly with a new filter. While you have the pan off why not put a drain plug on it? Now it is perfect on the street or strip. Nice firm shifts without kicking you in the butt every time it shifts. That's all there is to it. Simple, cheap. There is no reason to not do this.
I thought you did great running low 13's in the duster , nice work !
Damn good for such a mild combo. Makes me wish I had finished my Dart Sport 360. I had to sell it, dammit.
There is valve caps that you can put on the top of your valve which opens the a little more, i have never tried them but it might give you more air. I'm going to try them when i put my aluminum heads on.
Do you have a ground wire on the aluminum heads?
Yes, that's where I ran it. probably need to run it to the frame...
i just put Promax heads on instead of my factory J heads on my 340 dart that has an xe268h cam. went 13.22 without nitrous, with the old setup i was running 13.18 with a 100 shot. Highly recommend promax over speedmaster for a cheap and cheerful head swap.... machined in america!
Thats where im at with my 904. Between the gears and the shifting times it takes im worried if even something like grippier tires will turn it into confetti. Ive heard 904s are hit and miss. Some are bulletproof some are just around town paperweights
6 years of abuse and it's still holding, but I know the writings on the wall... lol. I gotta do something
Pure DRAG cars run 904s, fully built ones, cuz they suck up a lot less power than 727s. I've heard of some specialists putting 904 guts in a 727 case to put behind a big block, cuz there ain't no BB 904.
Good video and good info --- looks like the right upgrade on the cam & intake might get you close to a 12.50 1/4 mile ?
since I put in 3.23's and ran 12.9s. Just a little more cam and converter would push it down for sure.
That is about 280 wheel hp with that trap speed.
I know this was a year ago but I think you did real well showing the difference between the heads. I'm not at all surprised that you didn't see a huge difference but you did gain a little. The potential is much better with the new head then the stock head would ever be. On a side note boring a motor will lower your compression not raise it so I would definitely go to a thinner head gasket. JS
Thank you. I will kindly disagree on the boring lowering compression remark. If you put open chamber 318 heads on a 273, it lowers the compression drastically. That is why small-bore motors have smaller CC heads. That is why a 318 open chamber head works on a 318, but not a 273. Bore size is the only difference. That is why 360 heads have bigger CC's than a 318, because the 360 has bigger bore. It's why a 440 head may have a 84cc head, and a 273 will have maybe a 62 cc head... bore size!
@@318willrun you're absolutely correct more volume you put in a small chamber will raise the compression, if the chamber volume stays the same but with dished pistons that volume increases along with the bigger head gasket sealing ring and thickness of the head gasket also adds to it. Most aftermarket dished cast pistons I've seen have a tendency to add to the volume of the dish to compensate for any compression increase. But like l said you're absolutely correct boring will raise if the volume of the chamber stays the same. Have you done anything new to it lately?
@@tdog6437 Ok, you are referencing the dished pistons. Gotcha. Last video I went from 2.94's to 3.23's and ran 12.9's. More plans for it in 2022 !!!!! Stick around!!!
Thanks for sharing
Hey still good .... plus you help me out on what to buy from my 60 over 360 short block I have stored ... now I know to go with more cam and maybe higher compression pistons is if want to use speedmaster heads to get the most out of them. thank you!
Alternative idea: you could keep the stock low compression pistons if ya run a Hughes Engines Whiplash cam. They're made just for low comp, stock bottom end, 70s Mopars. Real tight LC and weird cam timing (like a Comp Thumpr) to build cylinder pressure. They sound WICKED!! Search "Hughes Engines Whiplash Cams" for tons of short videos.
@@donellmuniz590 Yes Hughes engines makes good stuff! Have used them before, might just do that and put in my 72 dart for awhile.
if we look to the flowbench ,
these show the big improvement .450-.550” of lift .
the small cam isn’t taking advantage of this heads strengths
Please update when you figure out the lean pop. Wondering if the new heads were flowing better and the engine wanted more fuel.
The pop is gone, the accelerator pump cam took care of the pop. I'm wondering about the intake sealing around the ports in the valley because I couldn't get proper torque as the bolts bound before tightening, that's why I used washers as a gap filler. I need to remove the intake and slightly oval the bolt holes so I know it's torqued.
Geez! Either that thing a feather weight or that 360 is stout!
Just about 3400 at the starting line (me in it)
so these heads oil through pushrods.. i have a 360 im building and im running a new whiplash cam, and lifters... what pushrods you running? would i have to buy new lifters as well @318willrun?
If it's a LA and you buy the LA heads (it's what i did), then they oil through the heads. Yes, if you buy a new cam and it's flat tappet, you need to buy new lifters as well. If rollers, then you'll be ok
new thought-- gear ratio i just ran my set up (truck) 10 over-performer intake- long headers-comp cam and all i seem to have achieved was a huge gain on take off quick shift to 3rd (727) and then lots of rpms but not a fast set up so i am going to mess with timing and maybe taller tires but feels like i have lower gears with all the new stuff. i decided not to install the speedmasters after watching your video
Well, my install was not fair to the SM heads due to my small cam. I did it intentionally for a test
@@318willrun Call Hughes and they will set you up with the right cam.
Subbed, whats it weigh, but with hi way gears, stock converter? What was the mph.
car without driver would be about 3200. 101 mph
@@318willrun cool old school mopar guy here, I took a dodge magnum, 5.9 from a dodge ram
that i was hit and run in, 1996, installed it in in a 94 dakota reg cab , the beauty the od trans you can run 3.92 gears, and with 27 per cent over drive. Well you can run 65 depending on tire size.. the result was, that nice ive forgotten, but the 96 ram a best of 14.42 with driver 4400 pluss im 240
Well im impressed with the time considering the gears those heads must work, the 91-95 46rh trans are much like a 727 but with od, the 3 wire plug in is an easy fix center hot (fuse
with switch) the two to both get switchs they go to ground.. bolts up to your 360, 27% od but you get to turn on the center switch, the od then lock up, been doing this for many years.
Im impressed with the times you've ran... I'll go back an rewatch your video...take care
@@donaldpowers3314 inly sad part about swapping a 518/500 in is that you have to cut on the torsion bar crossmember. i think uscartool makes a trans cross-member that helps with this though.
@@frigglebiscuit7484 i put a doug nash 5 speed in my 69 RR ND IVE NEVER seen the interference but i cut the removable cross member center out pushed the 5 speed and modded another and welded it the first one but i trully dont know ifs it a real vslable car w wouuld be auite hesitant. But if its an not so valuable car . The sound alone hearing the engine drop a 1000 rpm, engaging the over drive and lock is but find the early Dakotas fun and cheap, they came wth those trans, my first experence is i stuck a 5.9 in a v6 dakota so much stuff boltes in added 2 wires for the 7 and 8 injectors, put a v8 computer it started right up it was fun to drive, but didnt change the overflow hose to the overflow it had a crack
In it it sucked in air not coolant it got hot and
warped a head. Should pull that toy snd fix it
Total sleeper with 3.92 gears. I will look at some videos to look at the carnage that mist talk place. If some one wants a 67 dart backed
halfed, dana 60 race 340 with W2s stilll has the stock k member, that would make it a great pro street car, stuff a 440 and a gear vendors over drive on it. Whole or part will sell
3500 for either. Health issues iscmake me rethink on what i need keep
These are the std. 170cc heads, right?
How do you think the 190 cnc heads would do?
IF you had the combo to match, they'd do better. The reason my heads did very little was due to the cam being so small. And we knew that going into it, but wanted to do the comparison that nobody else would be doing.
With the rear gear you have and a stock 904 I'm sure converter as well low compression engine that is running dam good! I raced SBM for over 20 years trust me for what you have in that car it is running good. Your stumble came from lower velocity flow in the heads they flow better than stock but as a result the velocity fell off some especially with low compression. If you want to keep it very streetable and run 12:70s or 12:80s here is what I would do. Get rid of that metal fuel filter or move it from the hot air coming from the radiator it might not make any difference in et but your will have better fuel density. Put at least a 3.23 posi rear in it a simple shift kit in the trans with a 2400 to 2800 converter and a trans cooler. Almost all SBM I built and raced for difference reasons liked at least a 1 inch spacer under the carb you will get around 8 to 10 HP gain more or less. Now in your easily in the 12s and will still get about the same mileage on the hwy as before it will be close.
I am new to this channel so don't get me wrong but I just don't know how much experience you have but on the 360s shift it a bit lower like 500 rpm less or so than lets say a 318 or 340 you usually will find better ets because of the longer stroke. It will make the usable torque at a lower rpm anyway great car and a great job you did. And for the cam those factory rockers are just fine.
Glad you are with us !!! There is actually an update, and we are in the 12's now.
Just out of curiosity with your 360 what style of harmonic balancer are you using the stock one or aftermarket and if it's aftermarket which one and what part number? love your videos.
This car has just a factory type balancer. Thanks for watching!
There was a video I watched where you were showing how to find top dead center and aligning the camshaft dr. And it was a 360 and you had a black harmonic balancer that you put on there maybe that's the one I'm talking about I apologize
@@kengruginski6889 That was on the bombcycle, 360 magnum Professional Product. ruclips.net/video/wOXB8mKdGYA/видео.html
Last question brother are 360 Magnum harmonic balancers interchangeable with an l.a. 360
@@kengruginski6889 No. They are balanced differently.
Cam it.
1968 -340,4 barrel man trans,Hydraulic,444/453 lift ,276/284 dur
1970 -340,Six Pak,Hydraulic,430/444 lift ,268/276 dur .. same as 360/4bbl cam
You coulda swapped in a $74 Summit House Brand Cam when you did your heads.. too cheap not to.
Summit Cam #1789 Hydraulic Flat Tappet, 454/454 lift, 272/272 dur on 110 LSA
Summit Cam #6901 Hydraulic Flat Tappet, 441/441 lift, 276/288 dur on 114 LSA
Those heads only flow significantly more with increased a. Lift b. Duration c. Aggressive LSA timing
thanks for watching! But with the cam change at the same time, the whole "let's see" experiment would have been void. I did an experiment that I couldn't find anywhere else.... SM heads in placement of factory cast. ONLY change! I even used the same head gasket part number, and stock rockers/pushrods. What's the difference ??? Now I (we) know 👍
How about doing something on setting up the throttle lockdown linkage correctly?
I assume you mean kickdown linkage? I can make a video on that.
@@318willrun yes...I didnt catch the misspelled words
Just posted a video for ya.....
Have you rolled this car onto a truck scale to see what the race weight is? (minus driver)
It was a little over 3200 with the cast heads, no driver. Probably 3150 with aluminum heads
I had no idea speedmaster heads costed this little.i have a 72 318 in my 73 duster that was rebuilt before I got it but they installed some seals wrong and it leaks like crazy but have some parts I've collected for when I was going to pull it and reseal it xe268 cam,air gap intake,570 street avenger,1 5/8 hooker 5901 heaters dual 2.5 exhaust and x pipe 2500-2800 stall 410 gears with 275/60r15 wonder how good they would work on my car?I was debating either 302,360 heads or magnum heads until I seen the speed master alum heads.if they end up being good heads I may find a 360 and build a 408
Speedmasters are cheap on blackFriday sale, 40% off. Magnum heads would be a good choice for your motor as well, of course they oil through the push rod. 360 or 302 will work also.
@@318willrun I really want an aluminum set preferably la .either promaxx or speedmaster
@@williamjwarren3735 I've heard promaxx has a good head.
I guess the valve caps open the valves a little more.
How have the heads worked out have you had any trouble with them
no troubles. I don't drive it a lot, though
Well yea but when you get all the bugs worked out it might be 12.90s
Agree....
My car picked up a tenth 1/2 switching to electric fan
That's cool, a lot of folks running electric fans
Were you able to use the same push rods?
yes
Cool
Nice job.
You lost dynamic compression with aluminum heads. A full point!
only because they are aluminum? - don't get it
@@tomreyn3610 Your right. He could raise his compression by 1 with alu heads but if his chamber size is the same his compression didnt change.
LIFT. match what the max cfm rated lift, ,if .500 its done then .500 lift
60ft needs help .. . High 12s very possible.
1 Mopar 3:60 Race not, lest ye be raced
Put some gears in it.
I know, right?
@@318willrun 3.91s would kick ass, but I ran those for years in my Charger, and they were loud above 50 mph! Went from 4.10s to 3.55s in my Fury. More cruise, less drag. In your car, even 3.23s would be quite an improvement. My 72 Satellite had 2.76s, not ideal for a stock 318 in a B-body! 8.25 axle, or I woulda changed em.
Not bad, you might get your 12.9 dialed in. Timing at 36 full advance and go from there.