Nosey neighbors snitched me out to health department and mine was even better with clean outs and openings in top cut out and buckets set into place for easy pump out but they caught me in a area that has codes for septic only so be sure if your going to do this you don’t have nosey neighbors and/or codes
Super helpful gave me some good ideas for doing mine. I need a temporary septic for my RV for about 3 years while I build my home this is going to work perfectly.
Next time baffle your pipe from the first tank that leads into your second tank. The baffle should be place so it is level horizontally with the liquid that would be in the tank. This baffle prevents any larger solids from passing from your first tank to your second tank. Baffling can be made either by cutting a end cap to open the top half of the cap before gluing into place or by just heating up the end of your straight pipe so it can be lifted into the horizontal position creating a baffling effect. Great video .........
Good project.... my two cents...use a slip joint coupler or rubber coupler between tanks... Use silicone and butt coupler on inside and outside together... I use treated plywood around tanks to strengthen the outside... again good job 👌
I do the same - I like the plywood for it's strength. I put Tyvek around it as a moisture barrier; I've found it keeps the moisture off the plywood and also keeps any leaked "contents" from escaping the system sideways. I know a guy who just sprays the plywood with a generic FlexSeal type product but that does up his costs. Does anyone other than me do a rubble layer UNDER the tanks? Maybe I'm just too picky but I like the safety aspect. Of course unlike the video I'm using a small bucket loader to dig and that does a good job of tamping it all down. I drive in some rebar down there first to help stabilize, positioned under the tote frame. Like Ron I pack over it with a sand mix and fill the tanks and give them time to settle. I think the metal exo-frame keeps them in place just fine over that bed, no cement required. Just me. Also, I never use regular PVC OUT of the tanks to the leech field. I use flex pipe. I don't need them cracking; don't know what the odds are but I've seen to much burial-grade PVC come out cracked. I wrap the flex-PVC in 10mil Wonder Tape and I've never had one system fail. My material costs exceed his but not by very much (I've always got rebar & Tyvek laying around from other jobs anyway) and I've even put these in for small (under 1000 sq ft) 1BR homes and NEVER had any issues. Certainly more cost effective than one of those 1000 gal dual chambered tanks they sell and I think the metal frames on the totes make them superior. I also use a product call NT-Max in the system that's a LOT better than the over the counter "$h1T eaters" they sell and I think is one of the reasons I never have an issue with the small ridges inside the FlexPVC pipes. I've found the ridges smooth out inside with use anyway. Just my 2 cents.
@@daninnj8580 when you say flex pipe for the connection to the field, are you referring to the kind of flex pipe that is used for rainwater from gutters?
And so I did it ! Even put clean outs to the drain field thru the tote costed a lil bit more but I figure this way before my leach field gets stopped up I could clean the screen that I used in it also the smaller holes on top I cut them and slide two five gallon buckets into the hole and sealed them in I also splurged on some lime rock 2” but still way cheaper then having a plumber do it or having an expensive septic installed
I use old used water meter pit covers for things like this. They can be put flush with ground level and gives easy access with zero locating or digging.
The plastic tanks may need underground protection from larger moving stones through ground movement, the internal water pressure is not always able to overcome the external presser on these IBC tanks and can buckle in. I always carefully dig a hole slightly bigger don't need metal cage they just rust away put on a shallow concrete base then centre the assembly and start working concrete down the sides then over the top making the necessary allowance for inspection covers, vents etc about 2" to 3" all-round gap giving a cocoon protection. I enjoyed your content very interesting.
Great Idea! I'm remodeling a barn into a workshop, and it's really annoying having to go home to use the bathroom. It might get a deuce once every other week or so, so I'm not spend the money on a permanent septic system.
Do you have a drawing or diagram of this showing what's going on inside the tanks, what position the "t's" are to be in, the distances where the pipes go, the grades of the drainage pipes, etc? Also, I missed what the buckets were for. The black 90 degree piece was for the input, correct? I'm not a plumber at all. I'll watch it again sometime before I start my project. Thanks!
I would only put the outlet pipe only 4 inc below the outlet of the solid side. And I would put a T on the water side also. there should be tail pieces on your baffles to mid tank. The cleanest part of the tank. Don’t know how long I’m going to use this for or how many people will be using it. But it’s pretty small.But if you have it pumped out periodically Should do you just fine. The cleaner the water going it to the field the longer it lasts.
Stop fighting with pliers twisting the wire you have a drill. Cut off the ends an even distance and stick in the drill chuck. Done in 5 seconds and much tighter than by hand.
I have an apartment toward the back of my property, it uses the same septic tank. I rented this apt. to 3 young girls , 4 months later my septic tank started overflooding. I had it fixed, but when the workers opened it up there were TAMPONS FLOATING ON TOP! People don't flush tampons or anything that's not biodegradable, because its extremely expensive to fix or replace the feeder lines. I paid thousands of dollars to replace the feeder lines and repair the damage to the dividing plastic wall as it collapsed because of the backup. Needless to say l asked them to leave because they weren't interested in what l was trying to get them to do with their tampons , to throw them into trash can l put outside the apt. They weren't very smart cause they were paying only $175 ea. a month.
find a large 18 wheeler repair shop.,,. they get these for the oil for the trucks,, they will usually pressure wash them for u if you take them,, the plastic is very thick and strong
@@jaysmith7526 I made mine have a large vent pipe the same size as the plumbing. I put a cap on it, cut a hole in the cap and glued a smaller 1" pvc pipe to the cap that goes maybe 10' in the air. Above our heads so smell isn't noticable at all. Use septic smell good stuff like once a month if it does smell and it fixes it same day. I didn't glue the vent cap, so I can take it off and pour any additives directly into the tank the put the cap back on. Still going strong no issues at all
To anyone who cares, this 2 tank system costed around 7-800$. That includes all materials for tanks and leach field. And an excavator rental for a day. Project finished by myself in 1 day. 11 hours start to finish.
Wouldn't recommend this unless you have a larger tank clean out access lid and more care in the leach field design. I won't elaborate but even if you're bypassing inspection you should do it like it will be inspected. Many states allow you to do your own septic system yourself. You will be hammered if you hire out or don't apply for a permit in Texas. Fair warning: If you are homesteaded but don't have a permit for sewer or septic: That's how you get on a list. Not snitches. It's just obvious database comparison.
THEY DO MAKE A TOOL FOR CUTTING THE HOLES AND ALSO THE PROPER SEALS FOR THE PIPES. THE SEALS ARE ABOUT $100.00 THEY CAN BE PURCHASED AT ANY TANK DEALER SHIP OR A SERIOUS PLUMBING STORE (WALLY WORLD) DON'T COUNT.
Great video thanks. I’m shocked how many trolls your site attracts. They are just horrible but thanks to you my BBQ site is going to be much fancier than I knew. 😂👍🇨🇦
bulk head fittings... then you'd have something to glue pvc to between the solids and liquids tank, and no worries of the joints leaking bc of the silicone degrading over time
I considered using flanges screwed and glued to the tanks but wanted to keep the cost down. I guess silicone degradation could be considered, but leaking at the joint vs flowing out of the leach field 5 ft away, whats the concern? Thanks for the comment
So please explain the plastic in the ditch. How does water leach into the soil when plastic just makes laterals a swimming pool hold liquids in? Is there hole in the plastic liner?
It's not plastic, it's a french drain liner. Better to understand if you can see it up close. It's basically a tight woven material almost like burlap. It prevents dirt from filling in all of the crevices and water locking the rubble.
I have land in Costilla County CO, where land is cheap, undeveloped and rural and specifically designed for off grid living and there is no specific code for a septic as long as it works and does not leak waste, so there are plenty of places in the US where code does not exist, specifically in rural undeveloped land designed for off grid living.
Actually, that’s not true that every county has a code. For example, in Missouri some counties don’t even have authority for such codes in rule areas and certainly don’t have them. And the state law, which has some pretty big exemptions for large acreage single use would apply. This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t do it properly if you can but every project is different and doing some thing for a temporary campsite might be different than doing something for a cabin versus some other project. Just wanna make sure people actually have the facts. You would need to check your actual county or know your area.
Great video! I'm trying to figure all this out. I'm putting a rest room in my shop. It'll be just me. Could I accomplish the same thing with a single tank?
Yep! I have a picture of a legit plastic septic tank that floated up out of the ground after a heavy rain due to not being filled after burial.. Contractor had to come back, rebury and repair the field lines
You didn't explain the 2 vertical black pipes and didn't show the pre setup on them.. I would figure the inlets would be on the other side of the leach field
Great job. This will work great out on my land here in the Dominican Republic. I have a container out there and want to put a bathroom in it. Will there be a problem with toilet paper in this system?
What about using like Rid-X or Green Gobbler for added active biome (bacteria, microbes, and other organisms that live in a septic system) to help break down wastewater? Not a lot like every 3 to 6 months, depending on usage of course.
I have two water tanks one is 330 gallons for solids and the other is 275 gallons for water also I am running two 20-foot leach lines would this be enough for one bathroom?
Very good stuff. I would, though, try to screw tank connection and not just rely on a glue. What kind of use it goes through, how much you have to take out?
Am I missing something? You're making a watertight silicone seal but then you move the 2 totes sloser together immediately after. didn't you just mess up the sillicone you just applied?
Great video! I'm looking to put something like this in for a temporary living situation in a very rural area. How long does a system like this last before it fills up? How do you empty it once it is filled?
I'm telling you most of these areas around this country that's going to get you in trouble so if you're going to do this you better not tell nobody you need to keep it a secret because if some Karen decides to tell on you could end up having to dig it up and fill the ground in and dig some of the dirt up and all kinds of crazy stuff so be careful and don't let nobody know you're doing it
I can't find anyone to dig a hole lol. So my local machine rental is what I'm going to have to do. How long has it taken you to fill a 300 gal tank I may not even leach mine just 2 people in our 2 story tiny home
Even in unregulated areas, there are some statewide laws requiring standard septic systems. I’ve changed my mind about running my black water into the septic because the fines can be enormous. I’ll continue composting human sewage but run all of my gray water to the septic. A bit of an inconvenience for me, but protecting myself from having problems down the road. Maybe someday I’ll be able to afford a legit septic, maybe not. But I won’t lose any sleep over it.
In many areas installing such a waste system is a surefire way to get a major fine and come under scrutiny of the local zoning and permitting offices. Also depending on local water aquifers or creeks/streams could end up with a hefty hazmat cleanup bill as well. Install such unapproved system at your own risk.
So is there a risk of flooding your septic field bcz you have two pipes running to it? and would it be as good, better, worse to exit them from the liquids tank at different heights if it's meant to be a backup in case one fails?
Septic tanks usually have multiple chambers & baffles to allow for settling of waste solids. Having more than one tote mimics that structure, allowing for the water coming out to be cleaner.
QUESTION: Will something like this pass inspection? Or do I have to buy specific approved tanks? Sadly most land available still requires a septic permit & inspection
@@cannibalchainsaw yeah but they will probably know. If you want to do something like this do it either way off grid where they don't care or do a composting toilet and use gray water to water plants. Compost is more work but could save you the hassle
@@dustinreynolds1552 I'm remodeling an old barn into a workshop, and I'm on one step above a dirt road without much traffic. No other houses around for probably 1/2 mile or more. It would see maybe one dump a week. I just hate dropping everything to go home to go to the bathroom. You're right though, I have been thinking about and will probably just do a composting toilet and just dump the bucket in the woods every little bit.
@@cannibalchainsaw there are ways you can do it more efficiently. Just make sure it is safe and stuff. Off grid the diy septic is cool just make sure it is well hidden, inspectors aren't dicks but their job is to make sure it is safe for you and the environment
It's just two small women in a small home, would I NEED 2 tanks? I was looking at 275gal. The 500 gallon septic tank I was looking at, only had one chamber/baffle
I answered this in another comment. I looked up the average "waste" of a person per day and other stuff like volume to get kind of exact numbers. It'll be about 8-12months per tank
But also that is 8-12 months of ONLY solids. As if it never broke down into liquids. Which is most definitely will. So really you can easily double that time span PLUS some if you send enough liquids in plus the additive to break down toilet paper and solids
If the guy goes pee outside, and only uses the bathroom for #2, but obviously the woman uses it for both, and you throw your toilet paper in the trash rather than flush it, the system will work much smoother and last longer. Also all your other water (shower, sinks, dish washer, and washing machine) should NOT drain into the septic system. You follow those rules and your septic system will have the least amount of issues.
Just wondering if anyone has a diagram the 2 totes with the pipes between the 2 and perhaps some labels or short explanation of what the purpose is. I'm just a girl....I'm not as smart as you brilliant men. I love the way all of your engineering mind works. I had a bathroom added to my home by a plumber friend of mine that is now deceased, and I believe he may have watched your video for information and inspiration. I live in right outside of Austin city limits on NW side and there is solid limestone under the dirt at like 12-18" in some spots in my yard. So, I don't think he went deep enough *LOL* and the sewage is collecting at the end. Also, he only used 1 lateral line instead of 2; and the downward pitch is probably too much, like you mentioned in your video. He forgot to put that sock thing over the 4" pipe with the holes in it and I think maybe dirt or roots are getting in. Anyway, it's hard for me to deal with this cuz I'm a 55 yo single lady renting out rooms to other little ol ladies to make ends meet. Any ideas?
I’m a 55 yr old widow trying to build some housing for myself and there is so much I don’t know about. I wish I had just one person who could answer my questions. I’m thankful for RUclips at least. Good luck in Texas from southwest Virginia.
Sounds like a botched install. Firstly, if that leach is only 12-18 inches under grade, thats far too shallow. Secondly, the line can leave the tank singularly, but would need to branch off multiple times over, depending on soil structure (which sounds like yours is a mix of limestone and I'm guessing Clay?) Which limestone is porous and will perk, depending on its formation. If it's solid mass, essentially layers of solid limestone, sometimes referred to as shelf divided with layers of clay or a mixed composition that can be problematic for percolating, as the solid mass of the limestone, although porous, tends to leach liquid through it somewhat slowly. With a clay mix this process can even be slowed further and with solid layers of clay separating the lime shelf, can really hamper liquid dispersal. These instances would require a MUCH larger leach pipe matrix in order to allow proper dispersal of liquids as they're introduced into the system. There should also be NO actual waste being built up in ANY portion of the field, most especially not packing into the end of the line. This is an indication that A; the line itself has FAR too much fall (angle) applied to it (causing the outgoing liquids to rush down and past the perforations, essentially bypassing the exit holes it should be slowly seeping through them all, and instead is pulling into the end and only exiting through those holes adjacent to the end of the line. If solids are also collecting into this area (or ANYWHERE in the leach line at all) there was no filtration membrane (also known as a "sock") applied to the outlet penetration stub. This will allow solids to infiltrate the leach system, clog it up, and eventually plug the entire matrix of line as well as contaminate the fields rock and gravel bed and any soul in proximity to said field. Sounds like a bit of a nightmare if that all is the case. You likely need to get a company to come out, scope your tank and lines and assess from there. Good luck with it. Hope all turns out well for you.
Oil jobbers are a good source. Ask for DEF (basically fertilizer)totes. Be sure the valves don’t leak. I have hot glued them shut to stop a drip. Very important on the solids tank. They are usually glad to get rid of them. Be advised they probably will have some damage as good ones usually get returned for refilling. I
Get some infiltrators man. So unnecessary with the rubble lol also instead of wraping it in carpet just put it in a hole that is not much bigger than the tank and fill with concrete around the sides and bottom.
question, if I'm just building this for gray water , wash machine and couple sinks, 1 shower, could i just use 1 tank and a drain field, or would 2 tanks work better?
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but what is the purpose of putting plastic on the bottom of the leech line? I thought the purpose was to get the water to filter through the soil.
*woven mesh, not plastic. And if you look closely at 9:41 you can see the mesh isnt on the bottom of the trench, just the side. Again at 9:53 you can see bare dirt through the rubble. Mesh is under the immediate area where the pipes originate but not under the main leech area. Thanks
Imagine a tire from a vehicle... Well it sits on a maybe 1 sq ft area of dirt. Without a cap of concrete, the load could potentially be on a 1sq ft area of the lid as well. However, when you cap the entire top, now that load is dispersed over a much larger area evenly which can help prevent a puncture in a small area. Personally I would have liked to see him make a slab under it, then put some landscape timbers up and down at the corners, then make the cap and tie it into the landscape timbers. This would strengthen the tank significantly more to handle vehicles driving over it.
cant figure out how you think the power grab you caulked it with and then slamming them together and shaking them will provide a seal.i mean it ia a shit box underground but seems like an unnecessary step.idk
Nosey neighbors snitched me out to health department and mine was even better with clean outs and openings in top cut out and buckets set into place for easy pump out but they caught me in a area that has codes for septic only so be sure if your going to do this you don’t have nosey neighbors and/or codes
Similar problem. What fees or issues did EHD give you
🤬
snitches get stitches
Mankind has been pooping in holes for centuries and now there's codes.
capture them and yank a nail off, then tell them "i got your back if shit hits the fan but wtf is the matter with you"
Super helpful gave me some good ideas for doing mine. I need a temporary septic for my RV for about 3 years while I build my home this is going to work perfectly.
Same here! How is your's doing?
Next time baffle your pipe from the first tank that leads into your second tank. The baffle should be place so it is level horizontally with the liquid that would be in the tank. This baffle prevents any larger solids from passing from your first tank to your second tank. Baffling can be made either by cutting a end cap to open the top half of the cap before gluing into place or by just heating up the end of your straight pipe so it can be lifted into the horizontal position creating a baffling effect. Great video .........
Yes and also Dual tanks are 10xs better than a single tank with wall baffles.
Good project.... my two cents...use a slip joint coupler or rubber coupler between tanks... Use silicone and butt coupler on inside and outside together... I use treated plywood around tanks to strengthen the outside... again good job 👌
I do the same - I like the plywood for it's strength. I put Tyvek around it as a moisture barrier; I've found it keeps the moisture off the plywood and also keeps any leaked "contents" from escaping the system sideways. I know a guy who just sprays the plywood with a generic FlexSeal type product but that does up his costs. Does anyone other than me do a rubble layer UNDER the tanks? Maybe I'm just too picky but I like the safety aspect. Of course unlike the video I'm using a small bucket loader to dig and that does a good job of tamping it all down. I drive in some rebar down there first to help stabilize, positioned under the tote frame. Like Ron I pack over it with a sand mix and fill the tanks and give them time to settle. I think the metal exo-frame keeps them in place just fine over that bed, no cement required. Just me.
Also, I never use regular PVC OUT of the tanks to the leech field. I use flex pipe. I don't need them cracking; don't know what the odds are but I've seen to much burial-grade PVC come out cracked. I wrap the flex-PVC in 10mil Wonder Tape and I've never had one system fail.
My material costs exceed his but not by very much (I've always got rebar & Tyvek laying around from other jobs anyway) and I've even put these in for small (under 1000 sq ft) 1BR homes and NEVER had any issues. Certainly more cost effective than one of those 1000 gal dual chambered tanks they sell and I think the metal frames on the totes make them superior. I also use a product call NT-Max in the system that's a LOT better than the over the counter "$h1T eaters" they sell and I think is one of the reasons I never have an issue with the small ridges inside the FlexPVC pipes. I've found the ridges smooth out inside with use anyway.
Just my 2 cents.
@@daninnj8580 when you say flex pipe for the connection to the field, are you referring to the kind of flex pipe that is used for rainwater from gutters?
@@daninnj8580 I like your comment. Maybe a video to enlighten other would help
Hey, want to come to California and install one of these for me. Free stay and vacation time at the cabin! This video is awesome
And so I did it ! Even put clean outs to the drain field thru the tote costed a lil bit more but I figure this way before my leach field gets stopped up I could clean the screen that I used in it also the smaller holes on top I cut them and slide two five gallon buckets into the hole and sealed them in I also splurged on some lime rock 2” but still way cheaper then having a plumber do it or having an expensive septic installed
How's it working now? I'm researching different options.
Old brake drums or rotors work great to put on top to locate also.
I use old used water meter pit covers for things like this. They can be put flush with ground level and gives easy access with zero locating or digging.
Ever see the wires that run right along gas and other buried utilities? For locating through signal
The plastic tanks may need underground protection from larger moving stones through ground movement, the internal water pressure is not always able to overcome the external presser on these IBC tanks and can buckle in. I always carefully dig a hole slightly bigger don't need metal cage they just rust away put on a shallow concrete base then centre the assembly and start working concrete down the sides then over the top making the necessary allowance for inspection covers, vents etc about 2" to 3" all-round gap giving a cocoon protection. I enjoyed your content very interesting.
Dig a hole put crushed lime stone base. Put cinder block wall around them in the ground then put a home made concrete top over it.
Great Idea! I'm remodeling a barn into a workshop, and it's really annoying having to go home to use the bathroom. It might get a deuce once every other week or so, so I'm not spend the money on a permanent septic system.
Just use a $85 portable toilet, boat, RV...
Do you have a drawing or diagram of this showing what's going on inside the tanks, what position the "t's" are to be in, the distances where the pipes go, the grades of the drainage pipes, etc? Also, I missed what the buckets were for. The black 90 degree piece was for the input, correct? I'm not a plumber at all. I'll watch it again sometime before I start my project. Thanks!
I would only put the outlet pipe only 4 inc below the outlet of the solid side. And I would put a T on the water side also. there should be tail pieces on your baffles to mid tank. The cleanest part of the tank. Don’t know how long I’m going to use this for or how many people will be using it. But it’s pretty small.But if you have it pumped out periodically Should do you just fine. The cleaner the water going it to the field the longer it lasts.
Indeed! I was going to mention that too.
Mine works fine, and I never drilled a hole in the 90 lol ha ha ha
Never knew I had to tell I watched your video
Stop fighting with pliers twisting the wire you have a drill. Cut off the ends an even distance and stick in the drill chuck. Done in 5 seconds and much tighter than by hand.
I have an apartment toward the back of my property, it uses the same septic tank. I rented this apt. to 3 young girls , 4 months later my septic tank started overflooding. I had it fixed, but when the workers opened it up there were TAMPONS FLOATING ON TOP! People don't flush tampons or anything that's not biodegradable, because its extremely expensive to fix or replace the feeder lines. I paid thousands of dollars to replace the feeder lines and repair the damage to the dividing plastic wall as it collapsed because of the backup. Needless to say l asked them to leave because they weren't interested in what l was trying to get them to do with their tampons , to throw them into trash can l put outside the apt.
They weren't very smart cause they were paying only $175 ea. a month.
What a freaking mess. Some people are worse than animals. Hope all is well with you now...
I know a couple landlords that only rent to 40yo and up lol for reasons like this 🙌🏿
I have been looking for this type of material for an off grid project. Great video!! Blessings to you and your family!!
Awesome! Thank you!
find a large 18 wheeler repair shop.,,. they get these for the oil for the trucks,, they will usually pressure wash them for u if you take them,, the plastic is very thick and strong
@Riff Raff the metal frames make great wood ricks with a little modification and the plastic tubs make good hay bins.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 how long and how deep does the leach bed have to be for gravel or rock for 2 bedroom cabin
This heavily influenced my septic build and it's been good so far 4+ months
Do you smell it?
@@jaysmith7526 as long as you keep the lid on you should be golden
@@jaysmith7526 I made mine have a large vent pipe the same size as the plumbing. I put a cap on it, cut a hole in the cap and glued a smaller 1" pvc pipe to the cap that goes maybe 10' in the air. Above our heads so smell isn't noticable at all. Use septic smell good stuff like once a month if it does smell and it fixes it same day. I didn't glue the vent cap, so I can take it off and pour any additives directly into the tank the put the cap back on. Still going strong no issues at all
@@jaysmith7526 even with the cap off the last month I still haven't noticed any smell
To anyone who cares, this 2 tank system costed around 7-800$. That includes all materials for tanks and leach field. And an excavator rental for a day. Project finished by myself in 1 day. 11 hours start to finish.
Wouldn't recommend this unless you have a larger tank clean out access lid and more care in the leach field design. I won't elaborate but even if you're bypassing inspection you should do it like it will be inspected. Many states allow you to do your own septic system yourself. You will be hammered if you hire out or don't apply for a permit in Texas. Fair warning: If you are homesteaded but don't have a permit for sewer or septic: That's how you get on a list. Not snitches. It's just obvious database comparison.
That looks like it should do the job just fine.👍
Thanks!
THEY DO MAKE A TOOL FOR CUTTING THE HOLES AND ALSO THE PROPER SEALS FOR THE PIPES.
THE SEALS ARE ABOUT $100.00 THEY CAN BE PURCHASED AT ANY TANK DEALER SHIP OR A SERIOUS PLUMBING STORE (WALLY WORLD) DON'T COUNT.
The plumber in me lost it watching those caulked connections...
Too much money
Great video thanks. I’m shocked how many trolls your site attracts. They are just horrible but thanks to you my BBQ site is going to be much fancier than I knew. 😂👍🇨🇦
bulk head fittings... then you'd have something to glue pvc to between the solids and liquids tank, and no worries of the joints leaking bc of the silicone degrading over time
I considered using flanges screwed and glued to the tanks but wanted to keep the cost down. I guess silicone degradation could be considered, but leaking at the joint vs flowing out of the leach field 5 ft away, whats the concern? Thanks for the comment
Even better and cheaper for non pressurized applications use uni-seals. Thanks for the video bud!
So please explain the plastic in the ditch. How does water leach into the soil when plastic just makes laterals a swimming pool hold liquids in? Is there hole in the plastic liner?
It's not plastic, it's a french drain liner. Better to understand if you can see it up close. It's basically a tight woven material almost like burlap. It prevents dirt from filling in all of the crevices and water locking the rubble.
@@_Dirt__Great. I was wondering about that. Not sure if I missed the part in the video where that was explained.
I have land in Costilla County CO, where land is cheap, undeveloped and rural and specifically designed for off grid living and there is no specific code for a septic as long as it works and does not leak waste, so there are plenty of places in the US where code does not exist, specifically in rural undeveloped land designed for off grid living.
Actually, that’s not true that every county has a code. For example, in Missouri some counties don’t even have authority for such codes in rule areas and certainly don’t have them. And the state law, which has some pretty big exemptions for large acreage single use would apply. This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t do it properly if you can but every project is different and doing some thing for a temporary campsite might be different than doing something for a cabin versus some other project. Just wanna make sure people actually have the facts. You would need to check your actual county or know your area.
Great video! I'm trying to figure all this out. I'm putting a rest room in my shop. It'll be just me. Could I accomplish the same thing with a single tank?
Election sign looks perfect to go into dirt, I like ;>
Fill your tanks with water before you back fill them
Yep! I have a picture of a legit plastic septic tank that floated up out of the ground after a heavy rain due to not being filled after burial..
Contractor had to come back, rebury and repair the field lines
You didn't explain the 2 vertical black pipes and didn't show the pre setup on them.. I would figure the inlets would be on the other side of the leach field
Great job. This will work great out on my land here in the Dominican Republic. I have a container out there and want to put a bathroom in it. Will there be a problem with toilet paper in this system?
What are your thoughts about using Cement backer board around the totes? Overkill?
Great video with some great commentary. Thanks for sharing.
Question. If using 45s should a couple holes be drilled to break the vapor lock? Or is that only for 90s?
Great wrap idea on the tanks with solar panels like you said probably not needed but i would do.
Looks perfect, is there a list of supplies
What about using like Rid-X or Green Gobbler for added active biome (bacteria, microbes, and other organisms that live in a septic system) to help break down wastewater? Not a lot like every 3 to 6 months, depending on usage of course.
I have two water tanks one is 330 gallons for solids and the other is 275 gallons for water also I am running two 20-foot leach lines would this be enough for one bathroom?
Very good stuff. I would, though, try to screw tank connection and not just rely on a glue. What kind of use it goes through, how much you have to take out?
There should be a comment that says:
🛑 STOP 🛑
DO NOT DO THIS TO YOUR CITY HOUSE
there are IBC's with 250mm diameter lids, much easier to get fittings inside.
Have to find those! Thanks for posting!
Question: who will come and empty an illegal septic system? I'd like to do this but once it gets full what company will empty it for you?
Thank you! That was fantastic. Well done.
Am I missing something? You're making a watertight silicone seal but then you move the 2 totes sloser together immediately after. didn't you just mess up the sillicone you just applied?
right, you didn't apply it to the other one.
Composting toilet... utilize your gray/grey water for garden watering... compost food waste... i believe in a comprehansive approach...
Great video! I'm looking to put something like this in for a temporary living situation in a very rural area. How long does a system like this last before it fills up? How do you empty it once it is filled?
I'm telling you most of these areas around this country that's going to get you in trouble so if you're going to do this you better not tell nobody you need to keep it a secret because if some Karen decides to tell on you could end up having to dig it up and fill the ground in and dig some of the dirt up and all kinds of crazy stuff so be careful and don't let nobody know you're doing it
I can't find anyone to dig a hole lol. So my local machine rental is what I'm going to have to do. How long has it taken you to fill a 300 gal tank I may not even leach mine just 2 people in our 2 story tiny home
It works, I septic never worked right for over 30 years. I am just now doing a DIY to make it right. S H i T flows down hill ... just do it slowly Lol
3 years now, how your system holding up? Thanks
Perfect. I used the cabin about a dozen and a half times this past year, multiple nights, multiple people with 0 problems. Thanks
wait, so in your "leech field" you lined the bottom? How is the water/effluent going to "leech" through plastic?
I qS scratching my head at that part aswell... maybe water can pass through?? Idono
looks like it’s porous weed barrier
He did state in video that the fabric membrane does percolate
Even in unregulated areas, there are some statewide laws requiring standard septic systems. I’ve changed my mind about running my black water into the septic because the fines can be enormous. I’ll continue composting human sewage but run all of my gray water to the septic. A bit of an inconvenience for me, but protecting myself from having problems down the road. Maybe someday I’ll be able to afford a legit septic, maybe not. But I won’t lose any sleep over it.
Septic systems are black water. Why would you do a system for anything else?
How about an update on how it is working?
I assume that you terminated the ends of the leach lines with caps?
Do you have to vent the solid tank? Is that what the top 90 degree elbow was for?
In many areas installing such a waste system is a surefire way to get a major fine and come under scrutiny of the local zoning and permitting offices.
Also depending on local water aquifers or creeks/streams could end up with a hefty hazmat cleanup bill as well.
Install such unapproved system at your own risk.
You can buy small 2 chamber tanks designed for septic fairly cheap.
$1295 for a poly 500 gal as of 2023
thinking make the hole bigger 5" per side and fill it with concrete.
Perfect project 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻,
Approximately how long did you make the leach field? I appreciate this video and your help!
Code would be 36 feet
I did this same setup almost and I did 2 20' lines for my leach field
@@tylorkates8842I think he said he had a 2x 10ft pipes non-perfererated and then 2x 15ft pipes perferorated
How often do you empty your tank
Can just one be used for just gray water?
So is there a risk of flooding your septic field bcz you have two pipes running to it? and would it be as good, better, worse to exit them from the liquids tank at different heights if it's meant to be a backup in case one fails?
gravity will take care of it. the amount of water necessary to "flood the ground table a few feet down would be insane
great idea,, I use the frames of them for livestock feeders.. there a truck stop repair place near me I get all I want for free
The plumber in me lost it watching those caulked connections..
do the white pipes going down the settling field over the rocks have holes in them?
yes
really wish there was some more detail here. maybe it'll make sense after i watch some more videos.
Can they pump thru the existing holes in the top of the totes ? Looking to do the same thing excellent video brother !
Yes
I don't see why this wouldn't work as well and long as other systems.
Love the channel name
I don't understand the purpose of the second tank. Can you please explain?
Septic tanks usually have multiple chambers & baffles to allow for settling of waste solids. Having more than one tote mimics that structure, allowing for the water coming out to be cleaner.
Clarifies secondary water, settle water before leech field, you dont the leech plugs, thats grade 1 septic
Awesome video, exactly what I was looking for
QUESTION: Will something like this pass inspection? Or do I have to buy specific approved tanks? Sadly most land available still requires a septic permit & inspection
yeah this won't pass an inspection. This is definitely an off grid thing
In my situation, what the inspectors don't know won't bother them.
@@cannibalchainsaw yeah but they will probably know. If you want to do something like this do it either way off grid where they don't care or do a composting toilet and use gray water to water plants. Compost is more work but could save you the hassle
@@dustinreynolds1552 I'm remodeling an old barn into a workshop, and I'm on one step above a dirt road without much traffic. No other houses around for probably 1/2 mile or more. It would see maybe one dump a week. I just hate dropping everything to go home to go to the bathroom.
You're right though, I have been thinking about and will probably just do a composting toilet and just dump the bucket in the woods every little bit.
@@cannibalchainsaw there are ways you can do it more efficiently. Just make sure it is safe and stuff. Off grid the diy septic is cool just make sure it is well hidden, inspectors aren't dicks but their job is to make sure it is safe for you and the environment
Materials and dimension list for the pipes into tank, hole for the tanks and the trench please and thank you?
Have you tried pulling methane off it for fuel?
Where is the connection from the house to the septic tank?
Is this system for grey water or grey and black combined? Thanks
Solids settle in first tank, effluent flows into second tank then to leach
3 years. Is it still holding up?
It's just two small women in a small home, would I NEED 2 tanks? I was looking at 275gal. The 500 gallon septic tank I was looking at, only had one chamber/baffle
You need 2 tanks it's not about size
If used by 2 people regularly, how often do you think you'd have to pump septic on a 275 gallon tank?
I answered this in another comment. I looked up the average "waste" of a person per day and other stuff like volume to get kind of exact numbers. It'll be about 8-12months per tank
But also that is 8-12 months of ONLY solids. As if it never broke down into liquids. Which is most definitely will. So really you can easily double that time span PLUS some if you send enough liquids in plus the additive to break down toilet paper and solids
If the guy goes pee outside, and only uses the bathroom for #2, but obviously the woman uses it for both, and you throw your toilet paper in the trash rather than flush it, the system will work much smoother and last longer. Also all your other water (shower, sinks, dish washer, and washing machine) should NOT drain into the septic system. You follow those rules and your septic system will have the least amount of issues.
Just wondering if anyone has a diagram the 2 totes with the pipes between the 2 and perhaps some labels or short explanation of what the purpose is. I'm just a girl....I'm not as smart as you brilliant men. I love the way all of your engineering mind works. I had a bathroom added to my home by a plumber friend of mine that is now deceased, and I believe he may have watched your video for information and inspiration. I live in right outside of Austin city limits on NW side and there is solid limestone under the dirt at like 12-18" in some spots in my yard. So, I don't think he went deep enough *LOL* and the sewage is collecting at the end. Also, he only used 1 lateral line instead of 2; and the downward pitch is probably too much, like you mentioned in your video. He forgot to put that sock thing over the 4" pipe with the holes in it and I think maybe dirt or roots are getting in. Anyway, it's hard for me to deal with this cuz I'm a 55 yo single lady renting out rooms to other little ol ladies to make ends meet. Any ideas?
I’m a 55 yr old widow trying to build some housing for myself and there is so much I don’t know about. I wish I had just one person who could answer my questions. I’m thankful for RUclips at least. Good luck in Texas from southwest Virginia.
Sounds like a botched install. Firstly, if that leach is only 12-18 inches under grade, thats far too shallow. Secondly, the line can leave the tank singularly, but would need to branch off multiple times over, depending on soil structure (which sounds like yours is a mix of limestone and I'm guessing Clay?) Which limestone is porous and will perk, depending on its formation. If it's solid mass, essentially layers of solid limestone, sometimes referred to as shelf divided with layers of clay or a mixed composition that can be problematic for percolating, as the solid mass of the limestone, although porous, tends to leach liquid through it somewhat slowly. With a clay mix this process can even be slowed further and with solid layers of clay separating the lime shelf, can really hamper liquid dispersal. These instances would require a MUCH larger leach pipe matrix in order to allow proper dispersal of liquids as they're introduced into the system. There should also be NO actual waste being built up in ANY portion of the field, most especially not packing into the end of the line. This is an indication that A; the line itself has FAR too much fall (angle) applied to it (causing the outgoing liquids to rush down and past the perforations, essentially bypassing the exit holes it should be slowly seeping through them all, and instead is pulling into the end and only exiting through those holes adjacent to the end of the line. If solids are also collecting into this area (or ANYWHERE in the leach line at all) there was no filtration membrane (also known as a "sock") applied to the outlet penetration stub. This will allow solids to infiltrate the leach system, clog it up, and eventually plug the entire matrix of line as well as contaminate the fields rock and gravel bed and any soul in proximity to said field. Sounds like a bit of a nightmare if that all is the case. You likely need to get a company to come out, scope your tank and lines and assess from there. Good luck with it. Hope all turns out well for you.
That slope, depends on state and county health codes.
Some rural counties and states are very lenient others are very hardcore.
When a toaster oven 🎉 becomes a tool 🤪
So, the trench liner still allows the liquids to drain through it?
Yes, fluid but not dirt.
Overall this was a nice video. Good job buddy.....
Why are the inlets not on top but I'm confused
Feel like they could have used you on Breaking Bad.
Enjoyed your video. Thanks for posting it. Can you offer more information about where you find the totes for free? (I’m “doing my homework” now )
Do you have any places nearby that buys any liquids in bulk? (AG chem supply, Food manufacturing, painting, industrial supply)
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 brewery or distillery is golden opportunity
Oil jobbers are a good source. Ask for DEF (basically fertilizer)totes. Be sure the valves don’t leak. I have hot glued them shut to stop a drip. Very important on the solids tank. They are usually glad to get rid of them. Be advised they probably will have some damage as good ones usually get returned for refilling. I
Get some infiltrators man. So unnecessary with the rubble lol also instead of wraping it in carpet just put it in a hole that is not much bigger than the tank and fill with concrete around the sides and bottom.
question, if I'm just building this for gray water , wash machine and couple sinks, 1 shower, could i just use 1 tank and a drain field, or would 2 tanks work better?
The main reason for 2 tanks is to settle solids. You may be ok with 1
Grey water is legally allowed to be dumped on the ground or in a rock system no problem no sewage tho
Do you have an extra filter before exiting the tank to leach field?
Did you did the perc test before going with this system.?
What's that?
How do you deal with solids ?
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but what is the purpose of putting plastic on the bottom of the leech line? I thought the purpose was to get the water to filter through the soil.
*woven mesh, not plastic. And if you look closely at 9:41 you can see the mesh isnt on the bottom of the trench, just the side. Again at 9:53 you can see bare dirt through the rubble. Mesh is under the immediate area where the pipes originate but not under the main leech area. Thanks
Helpful 😊
Why put the concrete on top? Why won't that be too much pressure on it?
Imagine a tire from a vehicle... Well it sits on a maybe 1 sq ft area of dirt. Without a cap of concrete, the load could potentially be on a 1sq ft area of the lid as well. However, when you cap the entire top, now that load is dispersed over a much larger area evenly which can help prevent a puncture in a small area. Personally I would have liked to see him make a slab under it, then put some landscape timbers up and down at the corners, then make the cap and tie it into the landscape timbers. This would strengthen the tank significantly more to handle vehicles driving over it.
cant figure out how you think the power grab you caulked it with and then slamming them together and shaking them will provide a seal.i mean it ia a shit box underground but seems like an unnecessary step.idk
probably is unnecessary.
They sell those plastic septic tanks, and you dont have to deal with silicone or cooking pvc tees in your oven....
Buy, consume, spend.
All Schedule 30 PVC?
Toilet flange might work
You made a helpful video
I hope it passed inspection