2016-2018 Honda Civic Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement - PART 3
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Today is a video of rear brake pad and rotor replacement on my girlfriend's 2016 Honda Civic. This should work on most/all 2016-2018 Honda Civic models.
Parts Used Were:
Rear Pads - Centric Ceramic Pads w/Shims & Hardware Part #10518780
Rear Rotors - Centric Premium Rotor Part #12040089
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The length of the job and videos were not a problem and helped a first timer as myself immensely!
Nice job explaining! I never worked on electric Ebrake system with the special piston tool. You do a good job with 1 handed operation!
Good stuff man. I'm a timid diyer and have a 17 Honda and I'll be doing this come the spring. Thanks for this great detailed video.
Great video I just got a 2018 Honda civic touring it only has 26000 kilometers on it the breaks are good now but in the future this video will help a lot thank you from Canada.
Nice tutorial overall. Appreciate the no nonsense approach. One problem I have is why the torque wrench wasn't used for the caliper bracket bolts too? Also how about hanging the caliper on a coat hanger or similar so as not to have pressurel on the e brake wiring or brake hose?
Hanging the caliper I've done before, but only if I cannot set it somewhere so it's not hanging by the hose. I've never ever torqued the caliper bracket bolts and I've never had one come loose. I know that can be done, but I've never had an issue. Glad my video helped you!
Anyone watching this video and carrying out their brake piston retraction in this manner is taking a huge risk of damaging their EPB actuator. You need to remove the EPB actuator and rotate the caliper spline (not the EPB motor) clockwise until it stops, then retract the piston as normal. Then reattach the EPB actuator. Make sure to pump the brakes and apply the EPB twice before driving to home the EPB system.
Hey. Thanks for this video. I’m going to do this to my ‘17 next weekend. One question though, did you have to take any fluid out of the reservoir to push the pads all the way in? Or is this not an issue? Thanks again!
Shouldn't have to unless you added between the last pad change and now.
Dear FixtFrank412
Thank you for the Video I watched 1 and 2. but I have a question?. Did you use the computer to release the E brake.
Nope. As long as the e-brake is off inside the car, the piston of the caliper will reset by just twisting it in.
@@fixitfrank412 how to turn off e break
Did you pump the brake pedal a few times to take out any slack between the piston and new pads to rotor ?
Yes, always do that when changing brakes on any car!
Very good video. Thank you!
Do I need to twist down the piston? And is it better not applying the brake on while changing the pads. So I don't have to rotate the piston.
Yes, but don't force it if it doesn't seem to go. I've seen some people have no issues, and others have said they ruined or broke their electronic brake system by forcing something.
@@fixitfrank412 oh k so better not to apply the brake to have the room for the new pads.
Correct, don't apply the brake
Awesome video, makes me want to give it a go. But that torque is way too high. Honda's that have a 19mm lug (such as the civic) are 80 ft/lbs of torque. 22mm (Odys /Ridgelines / MDXs) call for 94 ft/lbs!
I just did my little brother's 2016 Honda civic and everything is good but the brake hold isint holding. Any ideas on how to adjust it tighter? Or is there a way to reset it?🤷♂️ any help would be appreciated thanks
There’s a comment on part 2 that explains why this is problem happens
After replacing the left rear rotor/pad I had a bunch of dash errors similar to Juan Cuara . After investigating I found
- applying my brake via the brake pedal, the wheel's brake is still operational
- applying the parking break, the wheel in question is NOT being applied. The first wheel I did (the right) IS being applied. I did this by having both rear wheels on stands. So in the end, I've got annoying codes plus 1 wheel whose emergency brake is non-functional. But all wheel's normal brakes are still functional.
- After investigating online, many others have this problem
- After investigating, the dealers don't know and want to replace lots of things. Some say you can't replace brakes/rotors without interfacing with the computer. I think there is some truth to that if you have a setting to automatically apply your parking/emergency brake after x many minutes.
- According to a blog/forum I found, it's a wire harness issue. As the parking/emergency brake is in electronic form now, Honda has had lots of problems with the wiring harness getting pulled and broken during replacement. i don't have this verified, but am highly confident this is the issue I and others are having.
So the take away for others --> BE VERY CAREFUL OF THE WIRING HARNESS INTO THE E-BRAKE
www.civicx.com/threads/did-a-rear-rotor-swap-electronic-brake-problem-dealership-says-replace-entire-caliper.34156/
I need to know how to adjust how much clamping force the electric parking break motors can apply to the brake pad on a 2016 Civic. . , Someone mentioned there may be a resistance adjustment to the power supply going to the electric parking brake motor??? I would like to reduce the clamping force to where the wheels would not lock up on wet pavement at high speeds should the brake inadvertently engage..
I'm not sure if there is an adjustment, but it doesn't sounds smart to me to de-adjust it so it will not hold the wheel. The point of the emergency brake is that it could stop the vehicle if the regular brakes fail. This does bring up a good point though, how would the parking brake be used in an emergency situation versus how easy is it to accidentally engage when you don't want it to.....
@@fixitfrank412 It engaged while the car was being driven due to computer error. Nothing I did caused this. At high speeds this would result in a totally out of control crash. If I could reduce the clamping force to where the wheels do not lock at high speeds they would still keep the car from rolling off. I don't think an adjustment is possible. I'm either getting rid of the car or disconnecting the wires to the electronic parking brake. I would rather die from old age than stupidity on the part of the engineers that designed this death trap.
@@yoyohooyo O wow, yeah, sounds like a recall should happen or a lawsuit for sure! I understand your concern, I'd do the same, get rid of the car before it happens again!
@@fixitfrank412 Likely that is the best solution. The service department pretended to fix it but they don't know exactly what caused it. All they know is computer error, same as me.
The distributor manager immediately said "when we sold you the car nothing was wrong with it". I need a lawyer but most of all I need rid of the car immediately.
@@fixitfrank412 I solved the problem. I traded it for a car with a mechanical parking brake.
Excellent video, good detail.
Thanks for the video bro
Big question as soon as I was done I had a braking systems problem. Is this normal? Or is there a way to reset it? The parking brake and electronic brake sensor is on.
That is not normal. Did you make sure everything was reconnected?
@@fixitfrank412 I did. i rechecked themm again today and check voltage. all have voltage. dumbfounded at what it can be.
@@juancuara8811 Not sure...sorry. Maybe try taking to to a local auto parts store and see if they can pull any codes from the computer.
@@fixitfrank412 Just got back from the honda dealer. they said my calipers are broken lol.
U3000-49 and c1110-13 are my error codes.
Thank you and Great job.
Invest in Jack stands and a torque wrench