My unit had a 10 MHz oscillator that was 30 Hz off-frequency. I purchased a VCTCXO That was almost exactly the same size as the original and made a small double sided board that had the 4 matching pads on the bottom connecting to the top with vias. On the top side I installed the VCTCXO along with a 20 turn trim pot between supply and ground. The wiper of the pot was connected to the voltage control input of the VCTCXO and bypassed with a .01uF to ground. The assembly was reflow soldered on the FY9600 pads. It was very easy to zero beat the oscillator to WWV time standard on a ham radio to less than 1 beat in 10 seconds. That is 0.01 ppm which is rather good and maintains the stand alone nature of the signal generator. I has held within 1 Hz 0.1ppm for two years. I also modified the grounding, making it switchable, added a power switch, beefed up the power supply, and added a small fan. The main chip gets rather hot. One might ask why not buy a better signal generator in the first place? Because it was interesting and fun. A project on my list is a GPS disciplined reference.
Good job! The internal crystal oscillator is indeed very bad... What I ended up making is, I replaced it with a very stable 10MHz oven controlled oscillator bought 2nd hand from Aliexpress at a bargain price, and fine tuned it to fraction of Hz using a PC with an SDR key, tuning a time and frequency radio beacon as reference, and using the spectrogram of the SDR software to match the output of the FeelTech generator to such reference 😉
Excellent project. I was concerned that you would melt the white connector with the hot air gun, because you did not cover/protect the connector. I am glad that it was not a problem. I forget this step, often, myself.
Hallo Tony, I saw your mod of the "Y-cap". The correct way to go about this would be to place two correctly selected real Y-caps, i.e. correct voltage rating and short-circuit behaviour, between phase and earth, and a single X-cap (same criteria) across the phases. X- and Y-capacitors by definition sit on the AC mains input, not somewhere in the circuit as noise suppressors. The "problem" of the voltage between floating BNC's and your body is the same as the tingling (tinteling, trilling) that you feel when touching a non-earthed object like a lamp or your MacBook (metal case!) when connected to the mains. Reversing the mains plug usually helps. It's caused by capacitive coupling from the mains to a metal case and normally is completely harmless, because of the high impedance of the capacitor, which is either a Y-capacitor or just a mains wire and a metal part running in parallel across some distance. If however, the capacitor is a Y-capacitor and that blows, without safety earth it'll try to blow you too... Unless double-insulated, which these devices obviously aren't, all metal parts have to be connected to earth, so that includes the BNC socket bushes. Noise suppression may be done on a circuit board of course, but it's not done by X- or Y-caps. I also wrote a reaction to Tim's Electronics Lab. re. this.
Hello Raymond, thanks for your explaination on Y-caps, i am sorry the name of the mod. confused you, in this part of europe it is obvios that a yellow/green wire is the earth wire, that is what is stopping the BNC's from flowting, the caps just take out the last noise.
@@TonyAlbus Hi Tony, thanks for your reaction. From Tim's video channel I understood that the yellow/green wire was to replace the standard wire, which was said to be too thin. It certainly was too thin to comply with safety earth regulations but even the thin wire would prevent the BNC's from floating, if a three-prong earthed connector and cable were used and mainboard common was connected to the generator's safety earth connection. The two issues were confusing.
Tony, I just bought a version of this generator made by Dominity and the PCB inside says FeelTech so it is very similar to yours. The mod seems to work somewhat. The frequency and wave forms from the FeelTech are off frequency. Measuring the 10MHz signals from the FeelTech internal oscillator look square wave. The 10MHz reference from my BG7TBL distribution amplifier puts out a sign wave. Do I need an external reference square wave?
Hello colleague! - Latest News on FY6900-30M Generator - The first thing that we managed to establish is that in the AM mode installed on the PC, it is possible to obtain an output frequency of up to 99 MHz. In any case, the digital oscilloscope showed just such frequencies, 70-80-90 MHz. The frequency value was controlled by the AMPLITUDE and FREQUENCY parameters. I did not find any logic, I left this question for study for later. Another surprising fact is that the generator takes power from the USB port. Before installing the generator control software, I connected the generator to the computer port. The generator has been turned off. In the process of fiddling with the installation of the program, I did not immediately notice, but then I discovered that the LED on the "ON" button was highlighted. I decided I forgot to turn off the generator. I flicked the switch on the back wall, nothing changes. I pulled the plug out of the socket. The LED continued to burn. Different thoughts got into my head, the plug was pulled out of the socket, but where does the power come from ??? I was completely stunned when the generator turned on completely, the screen lit up, and a signal appeared at the output. But the power cord lies in front of me, and is not plugged in anywhere! How is this possible ? Then I remembered the USB cable and pulled it out of the generator. The generator screen went out and I sighed with relief. It became clear where the energy came from to the generator. Then the program was installed, remote control started working and everything returned to normal. Further, I turned off the mains supply with the switch on the back, the generator continued to work, as if nothing had happened. On the one hand, it is convenient, there is no need to alter the switching power supply. On the other hand, the generator draws more than 500 ma, my avometer read 600 ma in full mode and about 500 ma in the "off" state. button on the front panel. If the USB port in the PC is weak, then such a load can disable it. Probably, to power the generator from a PC, you need to use the USB-3 port. Here is the news.
You could try loose capacitive coupling from the built in oscillator to the switch common to try and keep an oscillator signal present as you flick the switch, as long as the level is very low the external one should override it and take precedence.
Good option for this "inaccurate" signal generator. With a reliable external clock, it's becoming a very stable signal gen option. But, I couldn't get the "original crystal oscillator" out of the circuit. Seems in my set it is glued to the PCB, so I found that the 10mhz signal comes to a 33 ohm resistor, cut the line and, instead of what you did, I had no option but to feed the generator directly to the 33 ohm resistor. Thanks for the information.
Hi Tony, it’s me again. Please tell me what difference is there between the FY6900 and the FY8300? I have compared them and found only a difference in price, specs look the same. Thank you.
Hi, i only have the 6900 myself, so i can not say what is the difference, sorry . if you want to modify it for external ref. you maybe want to be sure its running on 10MHz inside, some models have 50MHz which then makes it a bit more complicated to connect to gpsdo.
A twisted pair of WW wires would have done nicely to connect from the switch to the oscillator/PCB and put very little strain on things. I'm sure what you did will be fine though. Nice project.
Tony, the incoming 10MHz's 50 ohm matching is not grounded to the FY6900's internal ground, therefore a spike on the reference system's ground could kill the input of the "big chip" I also would put some kind of input level limiter, perhaps a buffer to the input of the "big chip"
Hello Alexander, thank you for your comment, later in the video you will find that it is grounded and i even make a comment about that. yes feel free to change and improve the design, some even proposed to use a pll circuit around the original oscillator for the ref input so you can just plug and unplug the ref. without switching on/off the device .. this was to show that it is possible to get more accuracy out of this cheap generator.
Hi Tony, thank you for the very nice Video. :-) I think you didn't hit the target with your external Ref. mod. The right way would be replacing the original osc with a low phase noise VCTCXO. Then use a PLL loop do do a slow lock to your reference. Because else you add every little piece of hum and noise to your signal, producing a lot of phase noise. I also will implement an external Reference input. You can do Phase noise measurements with your setup, you should find out that the quality depends on a lot of random factors, like hum distribution via the mains cord and so on. It is really the better way to use a pll with a looptime in the seconds range and also isolate the ref input with a differential amp or a transformer to avoid ground loops.
@A BCould you explain a bit more on that procedure? What hardware I needed to achieve a pll locked external reference? An example schematic would be be interesting
Hi, Yes big change you can, but watch the video on UNI-T where i do the same, but on 25 or 50 MHz ..with PLL ruclips.net/video/wtc5OSsvWG0/видео.html but also watch the video about the PSG9080 that did NOT work in the end because of software correction in the device. ruclips.net/video/UVyM1qnDC5M/видео.html
Hi Tony, Can you please share what is the amplitude of the 10Mhz external signal you needed for a good operation of the generator? Mine needs a 10 Vpp 10 Mhz sine signal in order to sync the generator with the ext. source.
Hi, i use my standart distribution amp. i can masseure later how much that is, if the lever is to low, you can also cut that 50 ohms out and you have duoble the volatge.
@@TonyAlbus Thank you for the reply. In my FY6900 I found a different scenario. The ref. signal coming out from the internal osc. is having a DC component injected to the CPU. As a result, the square signal is on top of approx. 2 VDC. Is like an offset, so the signal from the ext. clock can't go directly to the CPU. Instead I put a single transistor buffer, connected between the input and the CPU, in order to have the desired offset and not having to inject excessive signal into the external input. Works great with no more than 3 VPP MHZ square wave coming from the dist. amp.
You did a very fine job, really impressed. I have the fy3200S and did the leakage modification. Works fine now. About to buy the 6900, either 60 or 100mhz. What mhz would you recommend?Will attempt to do the mods you showed. Thank you for your videos.
With this external reference source of signal connected to generator you can now calibrate an simple oscilloscope like hameg. What kind of signal do You use? OCXO or GPSDO?
Thank!, in de video description is a link to an other video.. there i found it from, if i remember correct 4n7 2x .. but have a look at that video link.
@@TonyAlbus The only video I see is one about the power supply mod. I was asking about the small capacitor that you used on the 10 Mhz reference input BNC connector that goes to the switch you added.
Nice mods ! Do you think it can be used to calibrate S meter on HF radios just using a proper attenuator on the output, or does it still have noise that can disturb the signal level ? Could you compare the difference with the Marconi Instrument ?
Hello, Thanks for the comment, it is a lowcost generator, which is maybe with this mod a bit better as it was, but to use for calibrate i would not recomment with this device... in one of my comments i made a list of the output levels it can do on AM and FM.. i think it is the review video of this device in my video list. With the marconi i can just set it to 50uV to adjust S9 fro HF.. i would not trust that with the FY6900...also there would be defferance between FY6900 devices i would guess... but for non calibration stuff it is fine for sure
@@TonyAlbus OK, that would be nice ! Theoretically if you put a 60dB attenuator on the output you should get a voltage 1000x smaller hence it should be like changing the scale from milivolts to microvolts, right ?
Hi, i just picked what i had... just make sure you use the original value on the secondary side... if i had, i would have used the same value on the primari side also.
Welcome! .. the video mostly explaines it... but it was 3 years ago, so i dont remember.. i advice you not to do it before you fully understand. but i am sure its all in the video.
@@dougholst6753 not sure.. 10p or 1n its not that important. i did more external mod videos maybe i mention is there, it has been a while ago, i dont remember.
@@TonyAlbus Thank you for the clarification. I did the modification but unfortunately my GPSDO doesn't seem to have enough output. It only seems to have about 1v Peek to Peek where in internal reference is about 5v PtP. I have ordered a GB7TBL which I hope will help. Thanks again!
@@dougholst6753 The BG7TBL is a very nice one. i have a video where i add extra gps standard to it, by only changing some setting.. Good luck with your project !
@@TonyAlbus Thanks for the reply. If I set my frequency to 25 MHz, the output is 24.999598 MHz. Isn't that an error of 16 ppm? Is that normal for the FY6900?
My counter does not have an external reference but I use it to set frequency. It's just an inconvenience. I mainly use the FY6900 for CB and other radio repair. I use an external step attenuator for low input levels. It does leak RF but is still useable.
Hi Tony. Thanks for excellent Video. I not understand what exactly you do on the center of Power Supply board ? remove and remplace the blue element ? Which Value ? What are you soldering the new wire to? Mine have the ground white wire connected directly to the blue PCB... not on the Power Supply board. Strange... Thanks for Help. Best regards.
Hello Nom,Thanks, the PSU mod, i took the info from here: psu fix (16:55) ruclips.net/video/pQxHFGXHPXg/видео.html Hope that helps.... the value i took was the original from the feedback cap i took that one out and used that on the secondary side to ground , the primary i took what i had in stock, but better is the have the same value as the feedback cap and put that on the primari side to ground. the wire is just a better ground wire than the flatcable groundwire which was not rated to do so.
Hello Tony. I just want to thank you for the excellent videos. I just performed this modification to my FY6900, And I am extremely happy with the result. Even with a brand new Siglent SDG1062X here, I still have a soft spot for the FY6900. And now that it's locked to my GPSDO, I couldn't be more happy with it. Thanks again 👍
Nice video. I have the exact same model. Have you tried calibrating the output voltage? I tried but I'm unsure of the results. It would be nice to see someone more experienced try and document it
Hello good sir, as a man of modding culture would you kindly share information about whether the different speed models have different hardware or just software limit and charge higher price for thin air?
i cant tell you, i only have this one, also not found a patch or hack... so in the end it does not matter if there is no patch. i would think at some point there is a hardware limit or cooling issue all ic, getting hot
@@TonyAlbus It's a pity you only have one ver. I don't usually need high frequencies anyway so probably I'll get a 15 or 20Mhz, version and maybe we can do a comparison
No problem, let me know when you need a picture... but remember even if it looks the same... if there is no way to unlock the software... or there is no hack... i have not seen yet on google... but i do think the 50MHz+ models will be defferent from the once below that..
Hi Tony et al Thank you for the useful video concerning the power modifications and comments by others. My contribution is as follows: 1) My FY6900 is branded as KKMoon. Internally, the main board is branded WWW.FEELTECH.NET and appears to be identical as I expected. 2) The shelf-tapping on the heat sink was loose and the heat sink turned about 45 degrees. Reviewing images from other videos the fin alignment is not consistent. Firstly, the heat sink would not be very effective and there is a real possibility of an electrical short. Additionally, there was a metal turning from drilling the hole in the heat sink. Ideally, a small spring washer should be fitted under the bolt to ensure that the heat sink remains in place over temperature cycles. 3) The mains wiring was very interesting and definitely needed attention. The neutral line was connected to the switch and then the fuse. This needed to be reversed on the back of the plug. Also check the way the plugs from the power connector and switch connect to the PCB. These can be reversed and the power supply still works. The switch connector should plug into the socket near the fuse. Mark the connectors with a permanent marker to avoid future confusion. 4) On the main board next to the power cable there are two traces labelled FAN - these have 5 volt on them. In future I plan to check the temperature on the heat sink and maybe put in a fan. I will need to check the power supply rating can support this. Cheers David
Hi Tony I have one on the way Should arive tomorrow I will be doing the same mod for the 10mhz ref I am going to cut the track rather than lift the tcxo Thanks Dave 2E0DMB
@@TonyAlbus Hi Tony Thanks for the info I also have the 40amp load coming dhl said it will be today, but no so it should be here tomorrow Keep the great videos coming Thanks Dave 2E0DMB
@@TonyAlbus Hi Tony The Load has arrived at the pick up shop today, i will go and pick it up latter , i have had a small 60w load for some time , it will be good to have a large one, are you still happy with the FY6900 Thanks Dave
@@davidbrowne1588 Yes still a happy user, aspecialy after the mods :-) ... but i am not a very advanced user....just last night i used it, to check a Tachometer of my friends oldtimer... it just so easy to use... now there are also 80 Mhz versions... i have the 60Mhz .. The Electronicload i have a 150Watts kit, but is got to hot to quick.. this one is so much better...you will have fun!
The gpsdo would not drive the processor clock circuit. Tried 2 volt square wave and sine too. After trying these, the unit would not power up. After a short wait, it started working again, and I decided not to continue my experiment until there is better data regarding the oscillator and the processor clock circuit and an established history of successes. Do not understand why the phase adjust no longer works. Possibly an unrelated issue.
Hi! May be I missed, but why you didn't calibrate device by software? Just right after this video I've interested in and found to press CH1+Power buttons during power-on, and there's new item in System menu to correct osc. frequency. Anyway you made great job, thank you!
Thank you for your comments Robert, This FY6900 is the 60MHz version, there are now also 80 and 100 MHz available, Video #026 and #027 are about Lab.ref. and GPSDO and the distribution of it the Lab. , 73 Tony
Tony Albus Do you think that the higher freqency is neccesary? In which cases? I am hesitating to make a choice. Could you give some advantages? Or better sick with the 60MHz? A lot cheaper.
If you are using it for LF or HF the 60MHz is fine, if you are planning to use it as a test-transmitter(it can do FM modulation) for 60+ MHz it would be wise to by the higher version.
Hello Roy, for more then one reasons: (1). high stability could still be very stable at 10.0001, that is not 10.0000000 (2) if you have multiple device with its own oscillator, stable or less stable..will still deffer for each other. (3) even if they would all be exacly 10.000000 they would be out of sync. (4) nothing beats a lab. reference to sync everything, even if it is just a gpsdo linked to GPS atomic clock.
Well awesome , I'm just bout to do this right now.. that's some good timing ! Thx
Hope it worked out for you aswell!
My unit had a 10 MHz oscillator that was 30 Hz off-frequency. I purchased a VCTCXO That was almost exactly the same size as the original and made a small double sided board that had the 4 matching pads on the bottom connecting to the top with vias. On the top side I installed the VCTCXO along with a 20 turn trim pot between supply and ground. The wiper of the pot was connected to the voltage control input of the VCTCXO and bypassed with a .01uF to ground. The assembly was reflow soldered on the FY9600 pads. It was very easy to zero beat the oscillator to WWV time standard on a ham radio to less than 1 beat in 10 seconds. That is 0.01 ppm which is rather good and maintains the stand alone nature of the signal generator. I has held within 1 Hz 0.1ppm for two years. I also modified the grounding, making it switchable, added a power switch, beefed up the power supply, and added a small fan. The main chip gets rather hot. One might ask why not buy a better signal generator in the first place? Because it was interesting and fun. A project on my list is a GPS disciplined reference.
Very nicely done... yes with gpsdo you are even better!
Good job! The internal crystal oscillator is indeed very bad... What I ended up making is, I replaced it with a very stable 10MHz oven controlled oscillator bought 2nd hand from Aliexpress at a bargain price, and fine tuned it to fraction of Hz using a PC with an SDR key, tuning a time and frequency radio beacon as reference, and using the spectrogram of the SDR software to match the output of the FeelTech generator to such reference 😉
Thank you!. Yes those OCXO's are great from Ali. if you not have a GPSDO Your solution is great too.. well done
Excellent video. I'll add this to me to-do list when I finally get my bench set up.
Thanks!, Glad it was helpful!
Excellent project. I was concerned that you would melt the white connector with the hot air gun, because you did not cover/protect the connector. I am glad that it was not a problem. I forget this step, often, myself.
Thanks, yes easy to forget, thank! yes i was lucky
6:33 I, would have cut off the power or signal path on PCB and used coaxial cable to reduce distortions and interference
Thats nice idea, please share the photos.
Hallo Tony,
I saw your mod of the "Y-cap". The correct way to go about this would be to place two correctly selected real Y-caps, i.e. correct voltage rating and short-circuit behaviour, between phase and earth, and a single X-cap (same criteria) across the phases. X- and Y-capacitors by definition sit on the AC mains input, not somewhere in the circuit as noise suppressors.
The "problem" of the voltage between floating BNC's and your body is the same as the tingling (tinteling, trilling) that you feel when touching a non-earthed object like a lamp or your MacBook (metal case!) when connected to the mains. Reversing the mains plug usually helps. It's caused by capacitive coupling from the mains to a metal case and normally is completely harmless, because of the high impedance of the capacitor, which is either a Y-capacitor or just a mains wire and a metal part running in parallel across some distance. If however, the capacitor is a Y-capacitor and that blows, without safety earth it'll try to blow you too...
Unless double-insulated, which these devices obviously aren't, all metal parts have to be connected to earth, so that includes the BNC socket bushes.
Noise suppression may be done on a circuit board of course, but it's not done by X- or Y-caps.
I also wrote a reaction to Tim's Electronics Lab. re. this.
Hello Raymond, thanks for your explaination on Y-caps, i am sorry the name of the mod. confused you, in this part of europe it is obvios that a yellow/green wire is the earth wire, that is what is stopping the BNC's from flowting, the caps just take out the last noise.
@@TonyAlbus Hi Tony, thanks for your reaction. From Tim's video channel I understood that the yellow/green wire was to replace the standard wire, which was said to be too thin. It certainly was too thin to comply with safety earth regulations but even the thin wire would prevent the BNC's from floating, if a three-prong earthed connector and cable were used and mainboard common was connected to the generator's safety earth connection. The two issues were confusing.
Tony, I just bought a version of this generator made by Dominity and the PCB inside says FeelTech so it is very similar to yours. The mod seems to work somewhat. The frequency and wave forms from the FeelTech are off frequency. Measuring the 10MHz signals from the FeelTech internal oscillator look square wave. The 10MHz reference from my BG7TBL distribution amplifier puts out a sign wave. Do I need an external reference square wave?
Sine is fine too, the feeltech also had square... it still triggers
Hello colleague!
- Latest News on FY6900-30M Generator -
The first thing that we managed to establish is that in the AM mode installed on the PC, it is possible to obtain an output frequency of up to 99 MHz. In any case, the digital oscilloscope showed just such frequencies, 70-80-90 MHz. The frequency value was controlled by the AMPLITUDE and FREQUENCY parameters. I did not find any logic, I left this question for study for later.
Another surprising fact is that the generator takes power from the USB port. Before installing the generator control software, I connected the generator to the computer port. The generator has been turned off. In the process of fiddling with the installation of the program, I did not immediately notice, but then I discovered that the LED on the "ON" button was highlighted. I decided I forgot to turn off the generator. I flicked the switch on the back wall, nothing changes. I pulled the plug out of the socket. The LED continued to burn. Different thoughts got into my head, the plug was pulled out of the socket, but where does the power come from ???
I was completely stunned when the generator turned on completely, the screen lit up, and a signal appeared at the output. But the power cord lies in front of me, and is not plugged in anywhere! How is this possible ?
Then I remembered the USB cable and pulled it out of the generator. The generator screen went out and I sighed with relief. It became clear where the energy came from to the generator.
Then the program was installed, remote control started working and everything returned to normal. Further, I turned off the mains supply with the switch on the back, the generator continued to work, as if nothing had happened. On the one hand, it is convenient, there is no need to alter the switching power supply. On the other hand, the generator draws more than 500 ma, my avometer read 600 ma in full mode and about 500 ma in the "off" state. button on the front panel. If the USB port in the PC is weak, then such a load can disable it. Probably, to power the generator from a PC, you need to use the USB-3 port.
Here is the news.
Thanks, that is some nice research! thank you for adding this here so it can be shared..!
You could try loose capacitive coupling from the built in oscillator to the switch common to try and keep an oscillator signal present as you flick the switch, as long as the level is very low the external one should override it and take precedence.
Thanks for your tips, always helpful.... for me its okey like this, i will be running it on ext.ref all the time.
Good option for this "inaccurate" signal generator. With a reliable external clock, it's becoming a very stable signal gen option. But, I couldn't get the "original crystal oscillator" out of the circuit. Seems in my set it is glued to the PCB, so I found that the 10mhz signal comes to a 33 ohm resistor, cut the line and, instead of what you did, I had no option but to feed the generator directly to the 33 ohm resistor. Thanks for the information.
Yes great option, that would be my solution too. nice work!
Hi Tony, it’s me again. Please tell me what difference is there between the FY6900 and the FY8300? I have compared them and found only a difference in price, specs look the same. Thank you.
Hi, i only have the 6900 myself, so i can not say what is the difference, sorry . if you want to modify it for external ref. you maybe want to be sure its running on 10MHz inside, some models have 50MHz which then makes it a bit more complicated to connect to gpsdo.
Thank you for your response, your presentations are always well appreciated.
Nice idea! I want repeat this modification on my DDS-generator...
Thanks, great!
A twisted pair of WW wires would have done nicely to connect from the switch to the oscillator/PCB and put very little strain on things. I'm sure what you did will be fine though. Nice project.
Thanks!
Tony, the incoming 10MHz's 50 ohm matching is not grounded to the FY6900's internal ground, therefore a spike on the reference system's ground could kill the input of the "big chip"
I also would put some kind of input level limiter, perhaps a buffer to the input of the "big chip"
Hello Alexander, thank you for your comment, later in the video you will find that it is grounded and i even make a comment about that. yes feel free to change and improve the design, some even proposed to use a pll circuit around the original oscillator for the ref input so you can just plug and unplug the ref. without switching on/off the device .. this was to show that it is possible to get more accuracy out of this cheap generator.
Good afternoon, Tony Albus. this is exceptionally diverse video. thank. :)
Thanks!, Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Tony, thank you for the very nice Video. :-)
I think you didn't hit the target with your external Ref. mod.
The right way would be replacing the original osc with a low phase noise VCTCXO.
Then use a PLL loop do do a slow lock to your reference.
Because else you add every little piece of hum and noise to your signal, producing a lot of phase noise.
I also will implement an external Reference input.
You can do Phase noise measurements with your setup, you should find out that the quality depends on a lot of random factors, like hum distribution via the mains cord and so on.
It is really the better way to use a pll with a looptime in the seconds range and also isolate the ref input with a differential amp or a transformer to avoid ground loops.
Thank you for your insight
@A BCould you explain a bit more on that procedure? What hardware I needed to achieve a pll locked external reference? An example schematic would be be interesting
Tony, great video! Is it possible to do the same with JDS6600?
Hi, Yes big change you can, but watch the video on UNI-T where i do the same, but on 25 or 50 MHz ..with PLL
ruclips.net/video/wtc5OSsvWG0/видео.html
but also watch the video about the PSG9080 that did NOT work in the end because of software correction in the device.
ruclips.net/video/UVyM1qnDC5M/видео.html
Hi Tony, Can you please share what is the amplitude of the 10Mhz external signal you needed for a good operation of the generator? Mine needs a 10 Vpp 10 Mhz sine signal in order to sync the generator with the ext. source.
Hi, i use my standart distribution amp. i can masseure later how much that is, if the lever is to low, you can also cut that 50 ohms out and you have duoble the volatge.
@@TonyAlbus Thank you for the reply. In my FY6900 I found a different scenario. The ref. signal coming out from the internal osc. is having a DC component injected to the CPU. As a result, the square signal is on top of approx. 2 VDC. Is like an offset, so the signal from the ext. clock can't go directly to the CPU. Instead I put a single transistor buffer, connected between the input and the CPU, in order to have the desired offset and not having to inject excessive signal into the external input. Works great with no more than 3 VPP MHZ square wave coming from the dist. amp.
@@richardmiranda5357 Oh, i never checked that with mine, i just worked. i take the signal direct from the distribution amp.
You did a very fine job, really impressed. I have the fy3200S and did the leakage modification. Works fine now. About to buy the 6900, either 60 or 100mhz. What mhz would you recommend?Will attempt to do the mods you showed. Thank you for your videos.
Hi, 60 or 100MHz depends what you need, if the price is not much higher, go for the 100MHz if you are willing to pay the extra .. higher is cooler :)
With this external reference source of signal connected to generator you can now calibrate an simple oscilloscope like hameg. What kind of signal do You use? OCXO or GPSDO?
Hi, GPSDO controlling a OCXO for long time stability
8:40 what does the tabletop multimeter measure? it oscillates between 20 and 40MOhm ...
Well spotted Marco, the test-pins are just on the desk...so open contact..
That was interesting, what are you using as an external reference? Is it a more precise function generator?
Thanks! .. This one :ruclips.net/video/8kQRbq9IdTc/видео.html and it can be modified to :) ruclips.net/video/eAdJSErqZOk/видео.html
Mine has a 50Mhz oscillator and is pretty spot on....at/to 50Mhz...eventhough device was rated 60Mhz.
Great!
Great video Tony. One question I have is, what value capacitor did you use for the DC block? And, how did you determine which value you needed?
Thank!, in de video description is a link to an other video.. there i found it from, if i remember correct 4n7 2x .. but have a look at that video link.
@@TonyAlbus The only video I see is one about the power supply mod. I was asking about the small capacitor that you used on the 10 Mhz reference input BNC connector that goes to the switch you added.
@@backbeatwoodworks 10nF ~ 470 pF ..its not that prcize, i think i did 1nF
Nice mods !
Do you think it can be used to calibrate S meter on HF radios just using a proper attenuator on the output, or does it still have noise that can disturb the signal level ? Could you compare the difference with the Marconi Instrument ?
Hello, Thanks for the comment, it is a lowcost generator, which is maybe with this mod a bit better as it was, but to use for calibrate i would not recomment with this device... in one of my comments i made a list of the output levels it can do on AM and FM.. i think it is the review video of this device in my video list. With the marconi i can just set it to 50uV to adjust S9 fro HF.. i would not trust that with the FY6900...also there would be defferance between FY6900 devices i would guess... but for non calibration stuff it is fine for sure
I will put it an a Q&A video... try to make that compaire...is indeed interesting to see
@@TonyAlbus OK, that would be nice ! Theoretically if you put a 60dB attenuator on the output you should get a voltage 1000x smaller hence it should be like changing the scale from milivolts to microvolts, right ?
the video is uploaded, hope you enjoy
Tony, do you have comparison between the FY6900 and the Juntek JDS6600 ?
Hey Toni, great mod and video. What capacitance did you use for the new y-caps?
Hi, i just picked what i had... just make sure you use the original value on the secondary side... if i had, i would have used the same value on the primari side also.
@@TonyAlbus
Thanks Tony!
Tony,this is a great lesson! I ask you to explain to me .....which two elements do you solder to the BNC connector and to which points?
Welcome! .. the video mostly explaines it... but it was 3 years ago, so i dont remember.. i advice you not to do it before you fully understand. but i am sure its all in the video.
@@TonyAlbus You spec the 50 Ohm resistor for impedance matching but I don't recall hearing the spec for the DC blocking cap.
@@dougholst6753 not sure.. 10p or 1n its not that important. i did more external mod videos maybe i mention is there, it has been a while ago, i dont remember.
@@TonyAlbus Thank you for the clarification.
I did the modification but unfortunately my GPSDO doesn't seem to have enough output. It only seems to have about 1v Peek to Peek where in internal reference is about 5v PtP. I have ordered a GB7TBL which I hope will help.
Thanks again!
@@dougholst6753 The BG7TBL is a very nice one. i have a video where i add extra gps standard to it, by only changing some setting.. Good luck with your project !
Is there a way to adjust the existing oscillator? It is stable enough for my use but off by a large amount.
The original oscilator is fine as it is for normal use
@@TonyAlbus Thanks for the reply. If I set my frequency to 25 MHz, the output is 24.999598 MHz. Isn't that an error of 16 ppm? Is that normal for the FY6900?
@@aeromojito Thanks normal, your counter has external ref ??? if you want it better you make just this what i did.
My counter does not have an external reference but I use it to set frequency. It's just an inconvenience. I mainly use the FY6900 for CB and other radio repair. I use an external step attenuator for low input levels. It does leak RF but is still useable.
Will this is oscillator shift frequency by changing the input voltage? I believe that is adjustable.
Hi Tony. Thanks for excellent Video. I not understand what exactly you do on the center of Power Supply board ? remove and remplace the blue element ? Which Value ? What are you soldering the new wire to? Mine have the ground white wire connected directly to the blue PCB... not on the Power Supply board. Strange... Thanks for Help. Best regards.
Hello Nom,Thanks, the PSU mod, i took the info from here: psu fix (16:55) ruclips.net/video/pQxHFGXHPXg/видео.html
Hope that helps.... the value i took was the original from the feedback cap i took that one out and used that on the secondary side to ground , the primary i took what i had in stock, but better is the have the same value as the feedback cap and put that on the primari side to ground. the wire is just a better ground wire than the flatcable groundwire which was not rated to do so.
@@TonyAlbus Hi Tony. Many Tanks ! I will do that. Best Regards. Nom
Hi Tony, could you share the software for this generator with me? I cannot find it on the internet anymore. Thank you!
Hi Marcin, no problem, i left a link in the video description, so now its available for everyone to download.
Hello Tony great job on the video! While watching I realized that to my suprise my motherboard is totally different! Its green and it says V2.1
Hello Arkin, Thank you!, yes i bought mine 1 year ago... but i guess the TXO will be more or less the same is it? Tony
All the comments here are spot on! This is an awesome modification. If you need more space in your lab, I can send you my address 😂
Thanks! yes at some point some stuff needs to go
Hello Tony. I just want to thank you for the excellent videos. I just performed this modification to my FY6900, And I am extremely happy with the result.
Even with a brand new Siglent SDG1062X here, I still have a soft spot for the FY6900. And now that it's locked to my GPSDO, I couldn't be more happy with it. Thanks again 👍
Thank you for your nice comment, yes a agree, the Siglent is great, but the Feeltech has this thing :) ... both great with GPSDO ...
@@TonyAlbus I also purchased the BG7 10MHz distribution amplifier based on your videos, and it has been a fantastic addition to my bench. 👍
@@mostlypostie1 Nice! yes great addition to the lab!
Nice video. I have the exact same model. Have you tried calibrating the output voltage? I tried but I'm unsure of the results. It would be nice to see someone more experienced try and document it
Thanks! This will maybe help, it is not mine, but it is also well explained... ruclips.net/video/O9JXn-9mAcs/видео.html
@@TonyAlbus i folowed that tutorial but I had trouble at different voltage ranges to get it correct. maybe i should rewatch it and take another go.
Okey, i have not tried myself yet.. maybe the device is not that accurate...
Здравствуйте, скиньте пожалуйста дамп прошивки от генератора, заранее спасибо
Hi, i don't have the firmware
Hello good sir, as a man of modding culture would you kindly share information about whether the different speed models have different hardware or just software limit and charge higher price for thin air?
i cant tell you, i only have this one, also not found a patch or hack... so in the end it does not matter if there is no patch. i would think at some point there is a hardware limit or cooling issue all ic, getting hot
@@TonyAlbus It's a pity you only have one ver. I don't usually need high frequencies anyway so probably I'll get a 15 or 20Mhz, version and maybe we can do a comparison
No problem, let me know when you need a picture... but remember even if it looks the same... if there is no way to unlock the software... or there is no hack... i have not seen yet on google... but i do think the 50MHz+ models will be defferent from the once below that..
Hi Tony et al
Thank you for the useful video concerning the power modifications and comments by others.
My contribution is as follows:
1) My FY6900 is branded as KKMoon. Internally, the main board is branded WWW.FEELTECH.NET and appears to be identical as I expected.
2) The shelf-tapping on the heat sink was loose and the heat sink turned about 45 degrees. Reviewing images from other videos the fin alignment is not consistent. Firstly, the heat sink would not be very effective and there is a real possibility of an electrical short. Additionally, there was a metal turning from drilling the hole in the heat sink. Ideally, a small spring washer should be fitted under the bolt to ensure that the heat sink remains in place over temperature cycles.
3) The mains wiring was very interesting and definitely needed attention. The neutral line was connected to the switch and then the fuse. This needed to be reversed on the back of the plug. Also check the way the plugs from the power connector and switch connect to the PCB. These can be reversed and the power supply still works. The switch connector should plug into the socket near the fuse. Mark the connectors with a permanent marker to avoid future confusion.
4) On the main board next to the power cable there are two traces labelled FAN - these have 5 volt on them. In future I plan to check the temperature on the heat sink and maybe put in a fan. I will need to check the power supply rating can support this.
Cheers David
Hello David, very nice additional information, thank you for adding it here and your nice comment.
Great info thanks for the awesome comment!
I'd like to buy one but I'm not skilled enough to safely apply the PSU mod. Still, thanks for the video, very interesting.
Thank you and welcome!
Hi Tony
I have one on the way
Should arive tomorrow
I will be doing the same mod for the 10mhz ref
I am going to cut the track rather than lift the tcxo
Thanks Dave 2E0DMB
Yes, thats also possibble... there was also a resistor between the tcxo and the chip.. then no cutting needed, have fun!
@@TonyAlbus
Hi Tony
Thanks for the info
I also have the 40amp load coming dhl said it will be today, but no so it should be here tomorrow
Keep the great videos coming
Thanks Dave 2E0DMB
@@davidbrowne1588 Haha... i seem to have that effect on people:-) hope it arrives soon, its fun to play with.... Enjoy... and Thanks you!
@@TonyAlbus Hi Tony
The Load has arrived at the pick up shop today, i will go and pick it up latter , i have had a small 60w load for some time ,
it will be good to have a large one,
are you still happy with the FY6900
Thanks Dave
@@davidbrowne1588 Yes still a happy user, aspecialy after the mods :-) ... but i am not a very advanced user....just last night i used it, to check a Tachometer of my friends oldtimer... it just so easy to use... now there are also 80 Mhz versions... i have the 60Mhz .. The Electronicload i have a 150Watts kit, but is got to hot to quick.. this one is so much better...you will have fun!
Can it be connectable with spooky 2 software.plz help me in letting know.
Hi Vineet, i am not familiar with Spooky 2, i can not tell you it is compatible.... Tony
Didn’t work for me. Also, destroyed the phase function of my unit. Lesson learned.
Sorry to hear that John, what went wrong?
The gpsdo would not drive the processor clock circuit. Tried 2 volt square wave and sine too. After trying these, the unit would not power up. After a short wait, it started working again, and I decided not to continue my experiment until there is better data regarding the oscillator and the processor clock circuit and an established history of successes. Do not understand why the phase adjust no longer works. Possibly an unrelated issue.
@@johnwolfe7517 Okey, weird, maybe the design is different on the newer models... good luck, i hope you can fix it.
Hi! May be I missed, but why you didn't calibrate device by software? Just right after this video I've interested in and found to press CH1+Power buttons during power-on, and there's new item in System menu to correct osc. frequency. Anyway you made great job, thank you!
Hello John, thanks for the info, that is indeed nice for on the road when i not have external ref.
Thanks, Tony, dankjewel. I think I will buy one. Could you show more from your 10 MHz external. reference? Dank en groeten, Robert PA7RG
Thank you for your comments Robert, This FY6900 is the 60MHz version, there are now also 80 and 100 MHz available, Video #026 and #027 are about Lab.ref. and GPSDO and the distribution of it the Lab. , 73 Tony
Tony Albus Do you think that the higher freqency is neccesary? In which cases? I am hesitating to make a choice. Could you give some advantages? Or better sick with the 60MHz? A lot cheaper.
If you are using it for LF or HF the 60MHz is fine, if you are planning to use it as a test-transmitter(it can do FM modulation) for 60+ MHz it would be wise to by the higher version.
13:38 I would have twisted the pair of wires, just for good measure....😉
You would? but you have one..
why not just use a higher stability internal 10MHz oscillator
Hello Roy, for more then one reasons:
(1). high stability could still be very stable at 10.0001, that is not 10.0000000
(2) if you have multiple device with its own oscillator, stable or less stable..will still deffer for each other.
(3) even if they would all be exacly 10.000000 they would be out of sync.
(4) nothing beats a lab. reference to sync everything, even if it is just a gpsdo linked to GPS atomic clock.
I have 32 Volts on my grounds!!!
Hello Harold, some reported even more, but this mod reduces it al lot... and make sure to use a grounded powerplug.
good luck, 32 is way to much!
Brasil 👀🖒
Thank you, greetings!