Tony, I don't want to give advice, but for me the best thing for holes in plastic is a stepped drill bit. It makes a nice, precise hole without burrs. Thanks for the good video.
Thank you so much, i am always open to suggestions, that is how i learn every day. i will indeed try that next time. i do have a drill like that nowadays. Thanks for sharing your method.
I have the same problems with switches that you do Tony, but you are the man for doing something about it! I salute you 😙. Excellent video as always. Just wish manufacturers would put the switches on the front too 🤬
Thank you Stephen! always nice to see your comments... yes designers need to think better and think beyond there own computer desk with only there one device..and think of a full bench, with lots of stacked devices.
Hi Tony, I also have the FY6900, I don't need or want the sleep mode switch on the front. Any idea how to reuse that switch as the power switch? If not than I will also follow your lead and install a power switch on the front. Many thanks Rick
I recently obtained one of these units, but I have a problem where channel 1 only outputs a DC voltage instead of a waveform. The DC voltage is also present when the channel is turned off! Do you have any clue on what components I should check? I have board version 1.2. (I am Dutch btw)
@@TonyAlbus I bought the unit from marktplaats. Luckily the seller was kind enough to refund the purchase price once I sent him pictures of the output of channel 1. The seller also let me keep the unit, so I was looking to see if I could troubleshoot it and maybe try replacing a component or two. Interestingly channel 2 is working without problems, and the frequency counter is aswell. The output voltage on channel 1 is 4.88V when the relay is not engaged and 13.58V when the 'high voltage' relay is engaged. Since the voltages remain present even when the channel is turned off, I feel like the transistor (or opamp) that the FPGA uses to regulate the voltage may be shot. I suspect the AD8009ar opamp located between the two trimmer capacitors, but I have yet to perform any measurements to confirm this suspicion. Unfortunately I could find no schematics of the board. Since you have some experience in taking these units apart, I was wondering if you have an idea about what components I should check
@@mrbanana779 Hi Eloy.. i checked my files, i also don't have any schematics.. in my other video were i do the PSU mod.. i have a link to an other channel. that guy knows a lot about this device. also he explains how to calibrate..
Hi Marnix.. have checked some of my Ali Orders, i think it was one of these kits: Y-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/YCapk1 Y-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/YCapk2 X-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/XCapx1 X-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/XCapk2
Why not buy a 10 Dollar, counter? : Hello Frank, or this one: ruclips.net/video/FRyt7_nslcg/видео.html Or the schematic: electronics-diy.com/electronic_schematic.php?id=279
Theese non-accessible switches are pure royal pain in the ass, almost every new device have to be modified and some of them are realy hard to modify, e.g. there is no place on the front panel etc. So I came to a much better solution - not modifying all devices, but building one switchpad, or how to call the panel with a lot of switches, where one swich cuts off power to one particular device with nonaccesible power switch. Building this is something time consuming, it needs a lot of wiring etc., but, on the other hand, this is done once and forever, everytime I buy some new device, I just use one of the unused plug. This have to be done with a huge spare (imo 10-12 switches should be enough) to be "do it once and forget" device. And on the top of that all. All of that cords goes into one relatively small box, which then goes into ONE mains plug. So you don't need a huge socketery or what behind the bench just to plug the mains cords into, you have one relatively small box with labeled switches, which preserves a lot of workspace on the bench.
Tony, I don't want to give advice, but for me the best thing for holes in plastic is a stepped drill bit. It makes a nice, precise hole without burrs. Thanks for the good video.
Thank you so much, i am always open to suggestions, that is how i learn every day. i will indeed try that next time. i do have a drill like that nowadays.
Thanks for sharing your method.
You explain in an accessible and understandable way about electronics. I don't know English, but I understand everything. Thank you.
Thank you very much!.. i hope you enjoy!
Great idea, I might do that with mine as well. I wish it had a larger display.
Thanks!
I have the same problems with switches that you do Tony, but you are the man for doing something about it! I salute you 😙. Excellent video as always. Just wish manufacturers would put the switches on the front too 🤬
Thank you Stephen! always nice to see your comments... yes designers need to think better and think beyond there own computer desk with only there one device..and think of a full bench, with lots of stacked devices.
Hi Tony, I also have the FY6900, I don't need or want the sleep mode switch on the front. Any idea how to reuse that switch as the power switch? If not than I will also follow your lead and install a power switch on the front. Many thanks Rick
Hi Rowan, nope i never looked into that, i kept it simple. hardware switch, off is off :)
@@TonyAlbus Ok, Thank you for the reply. Take care
Thanks for your video. Just fixed my brand new fy6900 generator
Nice work!
Très intéressant merci
Merci!
I recently obtained one of these units, but I have a problem where channel 1 only outputs a DC voltage instead of a waveform. The DC voltage is also present when the channel is turned off! Do you have any clue on what components I should check? I have board version 1.2. (I am Dutch btw)
Hi Eloy, just send it back, or do you have it for a while already?
@@TonyAlbus I bought the unit from marktplaats. Luckily the seller was kind enough to refund the purchase price once I sent him pictures of the output of channel 1. The seller also let me keep the unit, so I was looking to see if I could troubleshoot it and maybe try replacing a component or two. Interestingly channel 2 is working without problems, and the frequency counter is aswell. The output voltage on channel 1 is 4.88V when the relay is not engaged and 13.58V when the 'high voltage' relay is engaged. Since the voltages remain present even when the channel is turned off, I feel like the transistor (or opamp) that the FPGA uses to regulate the voltage may be shot. I suspect the AD8009ar opamp located between the two trimmer capacitors, but I have yet to perform any measurements to confirm this suspicion. Unfortunately I could find no schematics of the board. Since you have some experience in taking these units apart, I was wondering if you have an idea about what components I should check
@@mrbanana779 Hi Eloy.. i checked my files, i also don't have any schematics.. in my other video were i do the PSU mod.. i have a link to an other channel. that guy knows a lot about this device. also he explains how to calibrate..
Where did you order those y-caps for the psi modification?
Hi Marnix.. have checked some of my Ali Orders, i think it was one of these kits:
Y-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/YCapk1
Y-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/YCapk2
X-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/XCapx1
X-Caps kit go.tonyalbus.com/XCapk2
I was wondering what is with that "TEA"?
Haha, that is my therapy group on eevblog.com. Test Equipment Addicts :))). not sure therapy is working, maybe i found peace ... :)
@@TonyAlbus great. I am not on eevblog.com . but I might join there.
With the FeelTech, FY6900 is possible to put one Prescaler to extend the range :1000 for poor man frequency meter?
Why not buy a 10 Dollar, counter? : Hello Frank, or this one: ruclips.net/video/FRyt7_nslcg/видео.html
Or the schematic: electronics-diy.com/electronic_schematic.php?id=279
I don’t think that switch is safe for mains voltage being of metal
Rated 250V/1A or 125V/2A.
@@TonyAlbus Yes but that is not what he meant.
If the switch fails mechanically it can get full voltage on the metal parts that you touch.
@migsvensurfing6310 thank you.
@migsvensurfing6310 Maybe some heat shrink tubing over it. Adds some isolation at least.
👀🖒 Brasil.
Hallo to you too!
Another good modification. I don't know why anyone puts the main power switches on the back of equipment, especially when it is made to be stacked.
Thank you, yes silly designs made behind a office desk and not a full bench..
Theese non-accessible switches are pure royal pain in the ass, almost every new device have to be modified and some of them are realy hard to modify, e.g. there is no place on the front panel etc. So I came to a much better solution - not modifying all devices, but building one switchpad, or how to call the panel with a lot of switches, where one swich cuts off power to one particular device with nonaccesible power switch. Building this is something time consuming, it needs a lot of wiring etc., but, on the other hand, this is done once and forever, everytime I buy some new device, I just use one of the unused plug. This have to be done with a huge spare (imo 10-12 switches should be enough) to be "do it once and forget" device. And on the top of that all. All of that cords goes into one relatively small box, which then goes into ONE mains plug. So you don't need a huge socketery or what behind the bench just to plug the mains cords into, you have one relatively small box with labeled switches, which preserves a lot of workspace on the bench.
That is a very nice solution indeed Niki! thank you for sharing.
My power drive.google.com/file/d/1lDi0U_sMQRUaYvobuckipqbYlM0-06IJ/view?usp=sharing
Hello, Yes analog power supply is also possible.. nice, thanks for sharing