I’m buying a 74 chevrolet custom delux c10 with a 350 2 barrel v8 these videos are setting me up for my journey on rebuilding the beast. thanks sm for sharing your skills
Thanks for the tips! I’m also putting together my 350 sbc, Blueprint Eng. aluminum heads, Comp Cam with timing gears ‘cause I likes the noise. Went with Chevy orange for tradition, then flat tappet lifters and roller rockers, high rise manifold and Edelbrock 600. Very much like your build.
Out of the 100s of sbc I've built, I've never had one squirt oil like you say. I always prime w cover off. Always. Even when engine is running with VC off it doenst squirt. Rockers may throw some on to header but never squirts.
I want to use roller lifters as well on my build...can you use the stock push rods on that setup? If not, how do you correctly measure for the push rods?
great, except The left over sealant below the intake gasket that you left after you scraped some off. the 2 inch long sealant remnant could fall off and end up in your oil pump pick up screen or in a lifter etc..
Awesome info, I have a question about the casting on your block. I see it has 3970010 my question is the what looks like 80 beside the GM stamp is that the year of the block? Thanks
Very good very nice couple things I would do differently the temperature sensor for the fan temperature should not be close to the headers. I would use a temperature sensor on the intake manifold instead. Secondly, I would’ve gone with a serpentine system instead of the v belt other than that amazing!
Is there a way I can get in contact with you I really wanted to get a rebuilt lt1 4.3 liter y’all do a good job it’s hard to find a real mechanic I’m from Shreveport Louisiana I would love to do business with y’all y’all would be a blessing to me I swear
Now you guys are talkin trickflow heads closed chamber at Angela's going to run its rear end off nice camshaft and good cylinder heads watch out that that boy is going to run definitely have over 300 horsepower with them heads
The block was cleaned with the Machine shop hot tank, any left over head gasket/gunk was cleaned off with a razor blade. Then cleaned with brake cleaner before new head gasket and heads were installed.
You shouldn't use an extension when you torque the head bolts. The extension "twists" not giving an accurate torque. If you must use an extension, you should torque to 75 ft lbs, instead of 70 ft lbs, to make up for the extension "twist".
The twist doesn't change the torque. You just have to make sure the extension is on the same axis as the bolt to not alter the torque. Common misconception. This does make a difference on an impact wrench as they deliver a given amount of energy per blow and the flex of an extension will absorb some. Or something like that.
@@jakbain1337 what i said is NOT common misconception! I went to auto mechanics school 35 years ago, my instructors who had 35 to 40 years of experience when i went through training taught us exactly what i said. I will follow the way the instructors taught us, & that is that extensions DO TWIST!
@@timothygeiger8271with all respect I'm sorry to say you have been taught incorrectly. due to it being a static system the bar will transmit the same torque throughout the length of the extension bar and the bar will twist more proportional to the length of the bar. It's not recommended to use long extensions as it's hard to hold them aligned with the axis of the bolt which can throw the torque setting out.
@@jakbain1337 we were always taught differently. We were taught to avoid extensions when using a torque wrench if possible. If you must use a torque wrench you should add an extra 5 ft lbs if the extension is over 4 inches. Granted 5 ft lbs isn't much, but that's how we were taught. Back then there wasn't that much aluminum (other than transmission housings), we rarely used inch lb torque wrenches. They were so rare, the instructors kept them locked up & only got them out if we needed one for a transmission or something else.
Synthetic on a rebuild? I was told by an engine builder of 40+ years to not run synthetic for the first 10k miles. What do you know that he doesn't? Im getting ready to assemble a 68 327 board 0.040. He told me 10w-30 would be fine with a plastigage average of 0.0015. Thats pretty tight for 10w-30 dont you think?
You should have shown assembling the rotating assembly did you have the Crank polished or did you replace the crank shaft what did you do about honing it and the rings did you use the old piston and rings or do you put something new in it?
I’m buying a 74 chevrolet custom delux c10 with a 350 2 barrel v8 these videos are setting me up for my journey on rebuilding the beast. thanks sm for sharing your skills
tuned in . thanks for video to watch at work
wow. Super Detailed... Glad to see that 350 get completed. It looks like a real trick engine!
Thanks for the tips! I’m also putting together my 350 sbc, Blueprint Eng. aluminum heads, Comp Cam with timing gears ‘cause I likes the noise. Went with Chevy orange for tradition, then flat tappet lifters and roller rockers, high rise manifold and Edelbrock 600. Very much like your build.
I really love this kind of content I found my self falling in love with Chevy’s love the engine. Good work boys!
These are so helpful. Im rebuilding my 350 myself out of my 86 c20. Thx
4:33 I always use Permatex 2 on the thread bolts. Works good.
I need a video on the impala.... I have a 64 ss lowrider ❤
No way, now I strangely feel complete!
The engine could say the same thing.
😁 but wait, there’s more. Dare I say part 4!
Great build series 👏
Out of the 100s of sbc I've built, I've never had one squirt oil like you say. I always prime w cover off. Always. Even when engine is running with VC off it doenst squirt. Rockers may throw some on to header but never squirts.
We’ll demonstrate it on our next video
Great Job Guys Love it.
I want to use roller lifters as well on my build...can you use the stock push rods on that setup? If not, how do you correctly measure for the push rods?
Great Job very nice
I love that paint job how did you get it.
great, except The left over sealant below the intake gasket that you left after you scraped some off. the 2 inch long sealant remnant could fall off and end up in your oil pump pick up screen or in a lifter etc..
Awesome info, I have a question about the casting on your block. I see it has 3970010 my question is the what looks like 80 beside the GM stamp is that the year of the block? Thanks
why didnt u do the rocker arm adjustment with the intake off its way easier so you can see the lifters
Please do not forget the no-szese on the spark plugs.Those are alum heads.
I may have missed it, but what rocker arm are you using? Great videos!
Very good very nice couple things I would do differently the temperature sensor for the fan temperature should not be close to the headers. I would use a temperature sensor on the intake manifold instead. Secondly, I would’ve gone with a serpentine system instead of the v belt other than that amazing!
Thank you
Is there a way I can get in contact with you I really wanted to get a rebuilt lt1 4.3 liter y’all do a good job it’s hard to find a real mechanic I’m from Shreveport Louisiana I would love to do business with y’all y’all would be a blessing to me I swear
What are u using to paint the parts? Spray gun or rattle can
A rattle can
bravoo
How much do you guys charge to rebuild motors?
beast
Now you guys are talkin trickflow heads closed chamber at Angela's going to run its rear end off nice camshaft and good cylinder heads watch out that that boy is going to run definitely have over 300 horsepower with them heads
What did you use to clean the deck?
The block was cleaned with the Machine shop hot tank, any left over head gasket/gunk was cleaned off with a razor blade. Then cleaned with brake cleaner before new head gasket and heads were installed.
Where’s the merch????? Lol!
Coming soon!
Housing looked better aluminium. Matched the timing cover.
You shouldn't use an extension when you torque the head bolts. The extension "twists" not giving an accurate torque. If you must use an extension, you should torque to 75 ft lbs, instead of 70 ft lbs, to make up for the extension "twist".
The twist doesn't change the torque. You just have to make sure the extension is on the same axis as the bolt to not alter the torque. Common misconception. This does make a difference on an impact wrench as they deliver a given amount of energy per blow and the flex of an extension will absorb some. Or something like that.
@@jakbain1337 what i said is NOT common misconception! I went to auto mechanics school 35 years ago, my instructors who had 35 to 40 years of experience when i went through training taught us exactly what i said. I will follow the way the instructors taught us, & that is that extensions DO TWIST!
@@timothygeiger8271with all respect I'm sorry to say you have been taught incorrectly. due to it being a static system the bar will transmit the same torque throughout the length of the extension bar and the bar will twist more proportional to the length of the bar. It's not recommended to use long extensions as it's hard to hold them aligned with the axis of the bolt which can throw the torque setting out.
@@jakbain1337 we were always taught differently. We were taught to avoid extensions when using a torque wrench if possible. If you must use a torque wrench you should add an extra 5 ft lbs if the extension is over 4 inches. Granted 5 ft lbs isn't much, but that's how we were taught. Back then there wasn't that much aluminum (other than transmission housings), we rarely used inch lb torque wrenches. They were so rare, the instructors kept them locked up & only got them out if we needed one for a transmission or something else.
@@jakbain1337 you are completely right they have tons of videos on here testing it
Synthetic on a rebuild? I was told by an engine builder of 40+ years to not run synthetic for the first 10k miles. What do you know that he doesn't? Im getting ready to assemble a 68 327 board 0.040. He told me 10w-30 would be fine with a plastigage average of 0.0015. Thats pretty tight for 10w-30 dont you think?
You guys are fuckingawesome
Take your left hand off the torque wrench. You are giving the wrench a false reading!!!!!
You should have shown assembling the rotating assembly did you have the Crank polished or did you replace the crank shaft what did you do about honing it and the rings did you use the old piston and rings or do you put something new in it?
Maybe you should watch other parts of the build?