I just did this to a modem Samsung computerized dryer with a moisture sensor. The black wire inside the dryer led to the computer and the red wire and neutral wires led somewhere else. I jumped the red and neutral wire. I applied 120v to the back wire and neutral to neutral. Draws 14.98A. Works wonderfully on my dryer with a moisture sensor.
Install a 220 outlet, its not hard and your clothes will dry much faster. And they electric used will be the same or less I imagine since the 110 runs 2 hours instead of 30 mins for one load.
14.98 amps = the full amperage capacity of a standard 120v 12 gauge 15 amp residential branch circuit. Not good. :( If a load exceeds 75% breaker rating for more than a few minutes on a regular basis, you need to upsize. In this case, upsize to a 20 amp branch circuit breaker, wiring, and a 20 amp outlet. Betcha if she has the clothes dryer going and then plugs in a microwave or a hair dryer or a space heater into the other receptacle on that double outlet, the breaker will pop almost instantly.
Wow dude,, good to know, I'm in a back woods, off grid situation on a 12 volt battery bank to ensure my wind turbines play nice with my solar system. This is good knowledge to have. Thanx.
Good concept, I run my whole house on solar, all electric appliances. Did this same mod on my water heater but used a 3way switch so I can toggle it from high power to low power. Good work!
I done this for a friend that only had a gas dryer that went bad and she had no 220 volt outlet and did not want to spend money putting one in but she was offered a free electric dryer, and had a 110 volt 20 amp outlet for the gas dryer. The only thing the 220 volts is powering is the heating element, the motor, and timer runs off of 120 by taking a leg of the 220 to ground. Doing it this way makes it take twice as long to dry the clothes as you are taking half if the wattage away from the heat element.
Very interesting project, and good to know that if the SHTF you need to know what things can be done to help us continue our lives in a somewhat normal fashion that we are used to. I have been a sub since I saw you at Troy's helping them with there solar system. Thank you for being there for Troy and his family and I will continue to watch your channel too.
I had a heater element burn out on my home dryer and replaced it with one I had around. Much lower wattage and it took twice as long. Timer didn't have enough time. Added a 50 percent timer to the machine so it can twice as long. A friend runs heater element on solar. I run my dishwasher element on solar. My whole camp runs on just a car battery. PV hot water, fridge, dishwasher and large capacity clothes washed. It can be done and super cheap.
That's pretty cool. There is a guy in Florida that built a solar heated dryer, made the solar heat panels and sucked the air into the dryer no heating element needed. Of course the original solar clothes dryer is a length of rope and some clothes pins ;>)
Brilliant as usual man, I'm doing this now with my tiny solar array here in Oregon. I also recently installed a Titan Tankless water heater, what a dynamite product. Thanks man, for your knowledge and insight.
Thanks. I was looking to buy a cheap used dryer to tumble my pet bedding in to get the pet hair out. Pet hair clogs my washer filter which is real hard to get to and it tougher than my small female body to easily clean out. But I did not want the dirty pet bedding in my clean dryer. All I actually need to do is hook in a 120 cord on this used dryer and unhook the heater wire leg, insulate that wire end and then tumble the pet bedding before washing. That should save me a lot of grief and pain. It hurts my shoulder trying to put the hose back on the fitting when I clean out the filter.
in the beginning of the video you said since there isn't a ground post you would take that ground wire off and connect it to the middle post. but that Kenmore dryer harness already designed like so. that middle post connects to that ground wire on the body. by disconnecting it it would inn ground parts of the dryer.
I did a similar thing years ago, I built a solar air heater and took the electric heater out of the dryer, I then made duct work from the solar air heater into the air duct of the electric heater on the dryer. I ran the dryer itself of 110 volts ac. It worked good when the sun was shinning.
I well have to dig through photos and see if I can find pics of it. It was long ago before I got into doing videos. There is a ton of videos out there on building solar air heaters, I would avoid the beer can one, I tired that design and it didn't work great. All you have to do after that is pull the heater element out of the dryer and make a sheet metal duct to adapt to it for the in coming hot air from the solar air heater.
About 7 years ago “GreatNorthWoodsHillbilly” wrote you about using solar air panels to heat air that would be used to dry clothes in a 240v electric dryer adapted to run on 120v. Well I’m there right now. I have the solar panels built and ducted up to a dryer that’s modified to receive the solar-heated air. But I cannot install a 120v power cord into the back of the dryer, the way you demonstrated, without blowing the gfci when I plug it in. Following your lead I retired the red hot lead. Then I jumpered between the empty hot red terminal and the neutral terminal. Finally connected black lead to remaining terminal. Ground went to chassis. The only thing I did that you didn’t mention was disconnecting the heater assembly. All wire ends are taped and safe. Maybe a circuit was broken by the disconnect. What do you think? If I can get this running, then I’ll send you pics and plans. Panels currently produce150F with fan blowing air through collector ducting. I really want this to work. I hope you can help me. Robert Horton
The advantage of doing this is not to save on electricity because it probably use close to the same amount of energy because the Dryer would have to run a lot longer to dry the clothes. The advantage of converting a dryer would be to use a smaller generator (If one does not have one that can run a Dryer at 240V with a 5KW heating element) Or one could use this during the day and use a smaller solar grid tie setup that could help run this lower wattage dryer without having to use as much Grid electricity. Or one could use a smaller off grid system that has a lower capacity. For most people there would be no advantage of doing this. But under certain circumstances it could be useful. I do respect his experimentation as I have done the same converting a water heater over to 120V.
Lower the air flow through the dryer unit by 15 - 20 % & get the temp up . Or run the exhaust / drum motor slow until a working temperature is achieved or a good preset temperature . You could use a bi metal temperature trip or a cheap timer controlled unit & run the Motor slow , fast , slow , fast ;-))
Air flow is one thing you don't want to cut too much. You can have all the heat in the world, but if the moisture cannot be carried away quick enough, you have diminishing returns. Even a slightly elevated temp above ambient will assist in the evaporation, but the air flow bring in fresh, dry air will do most of the work. It may take longer, then on 240 with really high heat, however, in the long run you may use less power. I did a experiment, dried a basket of my shop rags after washing them via "Air Fluf", which is just the air, no heat. It took 2 hours to dry completely according to the moisture sensor on my machine. Washed them again, same rags, same number etc... this time dried them using the heat. With heat, took 30 minutes. Power difference: Without heat run time 2 hrs, measured a consumption of ~250 wh. With Heat, run time 30 minutes, consumption measured in at ~3kWh Sacrificing power for convenience of shorter drying time. Increase the temp just slightly with yours running on the 120v instead of 240, and you will still have a reasonable drying time. Of course, dryer climates help. Personally, I dry cloths in the dryer, but hang blankets, pillows and sheets inside during the winter. The inside air is nice and dry, and letting that evaporate in the house adds nice and much welcome humidity. In the summer hung outside in the sun, and then air fluffed. I had been looking into converting to 120v for the dryer though, so I could power it off my portable inverter and my 45 watt solar bank (Had this for years, it charges a 10 deep cycle battery bank at roughly 1440Ah). I like using this power for stuff in the garage. Panels don't generate much, but it's better then letting them go to waste until I can find another use for them, such as mounting on my Teardrop.
the ground is tied to the neutral INSIDE the dryer. This is done so it doesn't trip out GFCI breakers. Remember that in a standard distribution board the neutral is tied to ground anyway.
I converted it following your advice. Unfortunately the heating element doesn’t work at all on 120v, it just powers on and tumbles… no heat. I tested it with 30 amp and it works great heats up instantly. Any advice?
We lived for 13 years without a dryer for our family of 5. You have to do laundry every day and have a place to dry inside in the winter. We lived in a drier climate.
Please don't try this as home, thanks for your appreciation for my video. Make I ask if you do run this dryer without my permission will you make sure your new [WIRING IS NOT WARM AT ALL AND THE TERMINALS THAT IS IN THE RECEPTACLE IS NOT HOT AFTER RUNNING FOR 30 MINUTES] just for your safety sorry for the caps.
That symbol at 2:20 is a chassis ground, not an earth ground. So it means the neutral is connected to the metal enclosure. Also, you are not 180 degrees out of phase, if that's what you meant by off phase. You are using your entire 240 volts single phase from the Transformer on your pole nearby. A lot of people describe it as two phases, but you're really using a single phase, and everything in your house running off of 120 volts has it provided from one half of your transformer outside using a center tap. But basically, you are running the part of your dryer to heat the element with 120 volts instead of the normal 240 volts, and everything else that usually runs off of 120 volts anyway, is running normally, correct?
Shouldn’t your jumper wire be going between the two hot wires instead of from a neutral to a hot because now you’re feeding neutral into what used to be a hot wire
+Solar Power Electricity and Electronics (phillip20) yes I would assume it would be, but I was hoping for an actual temp to see if it was double for 240v. Trying to draw a temperature correlation between the two different voltages. No biggie if it's too much of a hassle. Thanks.
It's very hard to setup the wiring in the spot but if I setup the dryer back to the factory and go to the out side vent and test it will show the time and I will give you the info.
Hello Sir, I have a question. I have purchased a washer/dryer combo in the US and brought it with me to Argentina where the residential voltage is 220v single phase. The connections on the machine are pretty similar to the one in the video, it has GND - L1 - N - L2, where I suppose L1 and L2 need to be both 120v. How may I be able to connect the machine with only one 220v hot wire? (I also have a transformer I bought just in case, which would give me one 120v hot leg and neutral).Thank you in advance!
Jesuan Lazarte this was a demonstration to use something at less wattage and I totally understand where you coming from the dryer should be 230 volts that you have and the dryer will have a neutral leg as well that the motor requires 120 volts Splitface separately for the washer you're going to have to have 120 volts as well and I would suggest to take a look at the motor and size the Transformer you're going to need to wire it up because you will not be able to use an American Dryer at 230 volt without a neutral leg the washer you can use a transformer for
Jesuan Lazarte just make sure the transformer for your washing machine is appropriate sized I don't know exactly how big your requirement power consumption for your washing machine in but I'd say I would probably start with something around 10000 watt Transformer or more you will need to look at the power amperage in better yet it's probably best to say it's recyclable material now and just going by a used set
Im going to attempt to do this, i have a family member who has a kenmore that works like this it was refurbished and reconditioned like this. The fuse went out the repair man replaced it and shortened the wire to the heater and it heats up in about a hour clothes are dry. I want to do this as im a apt dweller and refuse to pay to upgrade my electric and i already have a portable 120v dryer i just need the capacity like this
Randy Blü i suggest that you pay your appliance company to modify your dryer if they are willing and get a receipt. I don't suggest doing this under any circumstances anyways what you can do which is the safest way to do it is to run the fan and dryer tumbler without the heater itself and that way you can air dry your clothes without the heat it'll take about an hour and a half for a moderate load and you won't have to pay for the heater to run but I don't suggest modifying a dryer for yourself under any circumstances these things are designed by engineers and if something was to happen while you're pulling High amperage through a 110-volt circuit you could burn the house down sorry for the inconvenience
Solar Power Electricity and Electronics thank you, i have thought about that. Im going to ask the seller who does this how they get around this without an issue.
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 Bauknecht TKSuperEco8116A3. Virtually no English-language information exists on it, but it's a German market version of the Whirlpool HSCX 80530.
I reverted the dryer back to its original state it was just a test I heard about it previously from my stepfather as electrical Tech I wanted to test it and share it with everybody else I do not recommend anybody doing this if you're not electrician and if you do do it you do it on your own risk
I'd like to see this kind of go the other way. Rewire a 110 to 220... kind of....Currently I have an apartment sized washer and dryer and the dryer takes FOREVER to dry clothes because it's 110. Anyway, I saw some videos where people take microwave transformers and make arc welders from them. I'm wondering if there is a way to use it to boost the dryer since the amp and voltage increase would come from the transformer and not the line.
First No that would not work to add power you see the 110vac has a max amps of 20 amps 110vac * 20amps = 2,200 watts A 220 dryer has a 30 amp fuse or trip switch 220vac * 30amps = 6,600 watts Watts is what heats the system not volts high voltage means less amps and that is why we use it for high power consumption systems and a 220vac, 20amp dryer will use 4,400 watts and if we tried to use 110 you would need 40 amps to get the same power out. 110vac * 40amps = 4400 watts there is not 40amp 110vac breakers to make this happen. Second Transformer can make 220vac from 110vac and I have some here but the amps are divided by 2 if you have 110 primary and 220secondary your amp output would not be multiplied they would be divided by 2 with this amount of turns of wire 110vac * 20amp transformer primary would give you a 220vac * 10amp secondary output 110vac * 20amp = 2200 watts 220vac * 20amp = 2200 watts If no transmission losses occur. Microwave transformer will kill any without mercy!!!!!!!!!! Don't play with electricity!!!!!!!!!!!
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 Thanks for response. In a lot of the videos they rewind the the transformer... I think the secondary to create the power to melt metal with their transformers. It's beyond my understanding of electricity...which is zero.... I would never mess with it... which is why I presented it to someone else (you) that is smarter. Do you know those combo all in one washer dryer things work? The same drum washes and dries clothes... how do they do that? Is it a special drum? Could a regular washing machine be converted into one?
it's important to consult a licensed electrician when dealing with electrical issues in your home. It's not recommended to attempt to diagnose or fix electrical problems yourself if you're not qualified to do so.
I'm not sure my friend and it's not going to dry your close very fast if you wire it like that. you should not work on electricity at all if you don't know how to read the wiring drawing
I don't know why people say 110v when really, both places I've lived like Oklahoma and California, it's 120v! Where do you get 110v? It even says 120v on your diagram there! Why are you saying 110v?
Not sure exactly, it's kinda funny like that. The stuff is rated at 120/240v but when you measure from the outlet, it's usually 110/220. 120v is under ideal conditions I guess, the ratings are always listed that way.
@@130rne Where I live, when there is no load on the outlet, the voltage is 120v. When you apply a load on it, the voltage drops according to how much amps it is pulling. The higher the amps, the lower your volts will drop. It's like a water hose. When you apply pressure (volts), the voltage is high. When you release that pressure which generates amps, the voltage drops because it's flowing thru the hose with less resistance so it has less voltage buildup. So what I'm saying is that before applying a load, you may have 120v to 116v but when there is a high load on that outlet, it will drop down to 114v to 109v depending on how much amperage you are using. No house in America should have less than 115v before a load is applied! Anything less, and your appliances and electronics may not work correctly! If my computer battery backup gets down to 114v, it switches to battery mode to prevent damage to my computer!
@@driversteve9345 I get you, though I've actually seen 108v on a house with crap wiring lol. So I just read up on a history lesson about it. tl;dr- 100v was initially used due to something about the carbon filament lightbulbs, they would blow at higher voltages. It was upped to 110/220 for a long time, now most modern ratings are 120/240. There's still old appliances around that have the 110/220 stickers. I get that an active load will increase current if the voltage drops in order to have consistent power but heating elements are passive, they're just giant resistors. Oh, and just learned that switch mode power supplies don't really care what voltage they run at. Something like 90-240 is fine. So that's probably an example of a device that pulls more current when the voltage drops, it's gotta maintain amperage to the rails. Maybe that's why the battery backup acts like that but maybe it just thinks the power is going out. The lead acid batteries in some power supplies are the same type that starts your car, they can handle a ton of current so I kinda think it's just trying to maintain voltage since most devices will just malfunction at low voltages. And typically devices won't fry due to low voltage, computers and stuff. So the battery maintains voltage, the psu maintains current, and the computer should be fine. That might be why we should all have quality psu's lol, because the cheaper ones will pull more current at low voltages and fry themselves unless they have good overcurrent/undervoltage protection. So like during a storm, if the power goes out it could actually fry a cheap psu. Just thought of that. Pretty sure I have all that right but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
@@driversteve9345 That's interesting about the different countries, in the states the voltage is maintained from what I've seen. Always near 120, I've only checked the outlets but they were on the same circuit as other loads, lights and stuff. So other countries design appliances to work on a wider range of voltages? Interesting.
@@helpAmerica1 First evaporation happens at any tempeture above 32 degrees with out the heater running.It will dry because the fan moving air and the tumbling of the tub. and ohm's law would make my homework 240 voltage and 20 amp's multiplied is 5000 watts = 18,000,000 joules, 120 voltage and 11.6 amp's multiplied is 1392 watts = 5,011.2 joules 1/2 of 18,000,000 joules = 9,000,000 joules So it's looking like i can do my homework with out you and you have failed this class
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 So using your math we only need tumble to dry clothes no heat required as long as your drier is inside.....brilliant ???
Por favor no hablo ingles me urge convertir una secadora 220 a 110 podrias subirlo al español o que alguien te tradusca te lo agradeceria mucho saludoa desde saltillo coahuila mexico
Would doing this cause the dryer to be less efficient? Like instead of drying ur clothes in 15 minutes on 220-240v it might take 30 or 40 on 110v?? I really dnt care as long as i can use my dryer lol.i have a huge samsung dryer, but the shit hole we r living in at the moment is only wired for 110 v.
To be honest with you as long as you keep the house fairly warm 70 70 to 75 degrees you can run it without the heater running and disconnect the heater and only run the dryer in the fan that will tumble the clothes and during the normal course of evaporation use hardly any electricity but it will take an hour or so to dry your clothes maybe 2 hours but it won't use very much electricity
But if you don't know much about electricity don't even consider doing this you can find a used gas dryer and just knock hook up the gas and run it without heat
For example a gas dryer only hooks up to 110 volts it plug riding where the washing machine does and as long as you run it without the heat mode on it'll dry without heat but it'll also dry it just takes a very long time
Solar Power Electricity and Electronics Honestly, you are not getting enough heat out of the elements. So basically you are just blowing very slightly above room temperature air. You are using lots of watts and getting almost nothing out of it.
@@KevinCoop1 I disagree. I just completed this on my dryer. The unmodified system produces 155-160 degrees which is controlled by the running thermostat. I scanned the temp difference and am getting 125 degrees, which is plenty to dry a load of towels, although it takes a little longer.
Cool, I just told a friend this. You might have to run it longer but theoretically it should work. 1500w is a space heater, it'll dry clothes, just takes awhile.
@@130rne Think of it this way. It takes a certain number of BTU’s of heat to dry a certain mount of wet clothes. So, with less heat and running longer, the same number of watts are used, but the length of time means it runs the motor longer. Your electric bill is based on watt hours. The dryer changed this way will cost more in energy costs. The last comment, the guy said the 160 degrees was controlled by a thermostat. That means it cycles on and off. At 120 volts, continuous running. Think it through before you do it. Respectfully, Kevin
I just did this to a modem Samsung computerized dryer with a moisture sensor. The black wire inside the dryer led to the computer and the red wire and neutral wires led somewhere else. I jumped the red and neutral wire. I applied 120v to the back wire and neutral to neutral. Draws 14.98A. Works wonderfully on my dryer with a moisture sensor.
How long does it take to dry your clothes? Or to put it another way, how much longer?
@@KevinCoop1 a full load is nearly 2hrs
Install a 220 outlet, its not hard and your clothes will dry much faster. And they electric used will be the same or less I imagine since the 110 runs 2 hours instead of 30 mins for one load.
@@josephvance8900 it was for my daughter's apartment. Free full sized dryer vs buying a 110 dryer
14.98 amps = the full amperage capacity of a standard 120v 12 gauge 15 amp residential branch circuit. Not good. :( If a load exceeds 75% breaker rating for more than a few minutes on a regular basis, you need to upsize. In this case, upsize to a 20 amp branch circuit breaker, wiring, and a 20 amp outlet. Betcha if she has the clothes dryer going and then plugs in a microwave or a hair dryer or a space heater into the other receptacle on that double outlet, the breaker will pop almost instantly.
Wow dude,, good to know, I'm in a back woods, off grid situation on a 12 volt battery bank to ensure my wind turbines play nice with my solar system. This is good knowledge to have. Thanx.
Good concept, I run my whole house on solar, all electric appliances. Did this same mod on my water heater but used a 3way switch so I can toggle it from high power to low power. Good work!
I done this for a friend that only had a gas dryer that went bad and she had no 220 volt outlet and did not want to spend money putting one in but she was offered a free electric dryer, and had a 110 volt 20 amp outlet for the gas dryer. The only thing the 220 volts is powering is the heating element, the motor, and timer runs off of 120 by taking a leg of the 220 to ground. Doing it this way makes it take twice as long to dry the clothes as you are taking half if the wattage away from the heat element.
Very interesting project, and good to know that if the SHTF you need to know what things can be done to help us continue our lives in a somewhat normal fashion that we are used to. I have been a sub since I saw you at Troy's helping them with there solar system. Thank you for being there for Troy and his family and I will continue to watch your channel too.
Thanks come back soon.
I had a heater element burn out on my home dryer and replaced it with one I had around. Much lower wattage and it took twice as long. Timer didn't have enough time. Added a 50 percent timer to the machine so it can twice as long. A friend runs heater element on solar. I run my dishwasher element on solar. My whole camp runs on just a car battery. PV hot water, fridge, dishwasher and large capacity clothes washed. It can be done and super cheap.
Thankyou, with your help I am washing my first load of laundry . I did exactly what you said.
That's pretty cool. There is a guy in Florida that built a solar heated dryer, made the solar heat panels and sucked the air into the dryer no heating element needed.
Of course the original solar clothes dryer is a length of rope and some clothes pins ;>)
yes I need this too.
Brilliant as usual man, I'm doing this now with my tiny solar array here in Oregon. I also recently installed a Titan Tankless water heater, what a dynamite product. Thanks man, for your knowledge and insight.
Thanks. I was looking to buy a cheap used dryer to tumble my pet bedding in to get the pet hair out. Pet hair clogs my washer filter which is real hard to get to and it tougher than my small female body to easily clean out. But I did not want the dirty pet bedding in my clean dryer. All I actually need to do is hook in a 120 cord on this used dryer and unhook the heater wire leg, insulate that wire end and then tumble the pet bedding before washing. That should save me a lot of grief and pain. It hurts my shoulder trying to put the hose back on the fitting when I clean out the filter.
in the beginning of the video you said since there isn't a ground post you would take that ground wire off and connect it to the middle post. but that Kenmore dryer harness already designed like so. that middle post connects to that ground wire on the body. by disconnecting it it would inn ground parts of the dryer.
I did a similar thing years ago, I built a solar air heater and took the electric heater out of the dryer, I then made duct work from the solar air heater into the air duct of the electric heater on the dryer. I ran the dryer itself of 110 volts ac. It worked good when the sun was shinning.
show me please
I well have to dig through photos and see if I can find pics of it. It was long ago before I got into doing videos. There is a ton of videos out there on building solar air heaters, I would avoid the beer can one, I tired that design and it didn't work great. All you have to do after that is pull the heater element out of the dryer and make a sheet metal duct to adapt to it for the in coming hot air from the solar air heater.
Thankyou very much my dryer works now. Your the man !!!!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks please understand you should not try this at home take care
About 7 years ago “GreatNorthWoodsHillbilly” wrote you about using solar air panels to heat air that would be used to dry clothes in a 240v electric dryer adapted to run on 120v.
Well I’m there right now. I have the solar panels built and ducted up to a dryer that’s modified to receive the solar-heated air. But I cannot install a 120v power cord into the back of the dryer, the way you demonstrated, without blowing the gfci when I plug it in.
Following your lead I retired the red hot lead. Then I jumpered between the empty hot red terminal and the neutral terminal. Finally connected black lead to remaining terminal. Ground went to chassis. The only thing I did that you didn’t mention was disconnecting the heater assembly. All wire ends are taped and safe. Maybe a circuit was broken by the disconnect. What do you think?
If I can get this running, then I’ll send you pics and plans. Panels currently produce150F with fan blowing air through collector ducting.
I really want this to work. I hope you can help me.
Robert Horton
I can help you with this please email me and I will try to help lunsfordhvac_20@yahoo.com
The advantage of doing this is not to save on electricity because it probably use close to the same amount of energy because the Dryer would have to run a lot longer to dry the clothes. The advantage of converting a dryer would be to use a smaller generator (If one does not have one that can run a Dryer at 240V with a 5KW heating element) Or one could use this during the day and use a smaller solar grid tie setup that could help run this lower wattage dryer without having to use as much Grid electricity. Or one could use a smaller off grid system that has a lower capacity. For most people there would be no advantage of doing this. But under certain circumstances it could be useful. I do respect his experimentation as I have done the same converting a water heater over to 120V.
thisvideo has paid out so i will not take it down ps dont try this at home
Lower the air flow through the dryer unit by 15 - 20 % & get the temp up .
Or run the exhaust / drum motor slow until a working temperature is achieved or a good preset temperature .
You could use a bi metal temperature trip or a cheap timer controlled unit
& run the Motor slow , fast , slow , fast ;-))
I'm thinking about 80 to 90 % air cut
Air flow is one thing you don't want to cut too much. You can have all the heat in the world, but if the moisture cannot be carried away quick enough, you have diminishing returns.
Even a slightly elevated temp above ambient will assist in the evaporation, but the air flow bring in fresh, dry air will do most of the work. It may take longer, then on 240 with really high heat, however, in the long run you may use less power.
I did a experiment, dried a basket of my shop rags after washing them via "Air Fluf", which is just the air, no heat. It took 2 hours to dry completely according to the moisture sensor on my machine.
Washed them again, same rags, same number etc... this time dried them using the heat. With heat, took 30 minutes.
Power difference:
Without heat run time 2 hrs, measured a consumption of ~250 wh.
With Heat, run time 30 minutes, consumption measured in at ~3kWh
Sacrificing power for convenience of shorter drying time. Increase the temp just slightly with yours running on the 120v instead of 240, and you will still have a reasonable drying time. Of course, dryer climates help.
Personally, I dry cloths in the dryer, but hang blankets, pillows and sheets inside during the winter. The inside air is nice and dry, and letting that evaporate in the house adds nice and much welcome humidity. In the summer hung outside in the sun, and then air fluffed.
I had been looking into converting to 120v for the dryer though, so I could power it off my portable inverter and my 45 watt solar bank (Had this for years, it charges a 10 deep cycle battery bank at roughly 1440Ah). I like using this power for stuff in the garage. Panels don't generate much, but it's better then letting them go to waste until I can find another use for them, such as mounting on my Teardrop.
My dryer motor died last week the wife add more then it could do but now i get to install a gas dryer XD
the ground is tied to the neutral INSIDE the dryer. This is done so it doesn't trip out GFCI breakers. Remember that in a standard distribution board the neutral is tied to ground anyway.
regardless you can't pull power from a ground
I converted it following your advice. Unfortunately the heating element doesn’t work at all on 120v, it just powers on and tumbles… no heat. I tested it with 30 amp and it works great heats up instantly. Any advice?
We lived for 13 years without a dryer for our family of 5. You have to do laundry every day and have a place to dry inside in the winter. We lived in a drier climate.
thats really cool to dry inside
Did it just like he did and it works great he knows what he taking about!!! By the way thanks a lot for ur video!
Please don't try this as home, thanks for your appreciation for my video. Make I ask if you do run this dryer without my permission will you make sure your new [WIRING IS NOT WARM AT ALL AND THE TERMINALS THAT IS IN THE RECEPTACLE IS NOT HOT AFTER RUNNING FOR 30 MINUTES] just for your safety sorry for the caps.
So well done!!!!!! Thank you!
It would be great to convert the heater to around 25/3000 watts at 240v. 2 heaters in series for 2500w perhaps ???
it would devide it by 4
That symbol at 2:20 is a chassis ground, not an earth ground. So it means the neutral is connected to the metal enclosure. Also, you are not 180 degrees out of phase, if that's what you meant by off phase. You are using your entire 240 volts single phase from the Transformer on your pole nearby.
A lot of people describe it as two phases, but you're really using a single phase, and everything in your house running off of 120 volts has it provided from one half of your transformer outside using a center tap.
But basically, you are running the part of your dryer to heat the element with 120 volts instead of the normal 240 volts, and everything else that usually runs off of 120 volts anyway, is running normally, correct?
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On solar you need a GAS DRYER or PROPANE.
Shouldn’t your jumper wire be going between the two hot wires instead of from a neutral to a hot because now you’re feeding neutral into what used to be a hot wire
If you're not familiar with electricity, you shouldn't work on it. It's incredibly dangerous.
Cool video, thanks for sharing. What's the temp at 240v for a comparison?
Very hot
+Solar Power Electricity and Electronics (phillip20) yes I would assume it would be, but I was hoping for an actual temp to see if it was double for 240v. Trying to draw a temperature correlation between the two different voltages. No biggie if it's too much of a hassle. Thanks.
It's very hard to setup the wiring in the spot but if I setup the dryer back to the factory and go to the out side vent and test it will show the time and I will give you the info.
+Solar Power Electricity and Electronics (phillip20) cool, again don't bother if it's a hassle.
It's easy to do I need to setup the dryer anyway because family of 5 here.
Hello Sir, I have a question. I have purchased a washer/dryer combo in the US and brought it with me to Argentina where the residential voltage is 220v single phase. The connections on the machine are pretty similar to the one in the video, it has GND - L1 - N - L2, where I suppose L1 and L2 need to be both 120v. How may I be able to connect the machine with only one 220v hot wire? (I also have a transformer I bought just in case, which would give me one 120v hot leg and neutral).Thank you in advance!
Jesuan Lazarte this was a demonstration to use something at less wattage and I totally understand where you coming from the dryer should be 230 volts that you have and the dryer will have a neutral leg as well that the motor requires 120 volts Splitface separately for the washer you're going to have to have 120 volts as well and I would suggest to take a look at the motor and size the Transformer you're going to need to wire it up because you will not be able to use an American Dryer at 230 volt without a neutral leg the washer you can use a transformer for
Jesuan Lazarte just make sure the transformer for your washing machine is appropriate sized I don't know exactly how big your requirement power consumption for your washing machine in but I'd say I would probably start with something around 10000 watt Transformer or more you will need to look at the power amperage in better yet it's probably best to say it's recyclable material now and just going by a used set
Im going to attempt to do this, i have a family member who has a kenmore that works like this it was refurbished and reconditioned like this. The fuse went out the repair man replaced it and shortened the wire to the heater and it heats up in about a hour clothes are dry. I want to do this as im a apt dweller and refuse to pay to upgrade my electric and i already have a portable 120v dryer i just need the capacity like this
Randy Blü i suggest that you pay your appliance company to modify your dryer if they are willing and get a receipt. I don't suggest doing this under any circumstances anyways what you can do which is the safest way to do it is to run the fan and dryer tumbler without the heater itself and that way you can air dry your clothes without the heat it'll take about an hour and a half for a moderate load and you won't have to pay for the heater to run but I don't suggest modifying a dryer for yourself under any circumstances these things are designed by engineers and if something was to happen while you're pulling High amperage through a 110-volt circuit you could burn the house down sorry for the inconvenience
Solar Power Electricity and Electronics thank you, i have thought about that. Im going to ask the seller who does this how they get around this without an issue.
That will be a lot of moisture for a vacuum pump to boil off. Wonder how many hours that will take assuming you can get the tank air tight.
it's really hard to get it @ 25,000 microns not there yet.
dryer temps are close to 160 deg. so this set up will take twice as long to dry clothes
It is 1/4 the power so Id say your rite....
I thought black was neutral and white was the positive leg? A different guy jumped leg two to neutral and had black on neutral and white on leg one.
🤣
wanting to convert elec dryer touse as tumbler. Is it possible to rewire dryer to just turn tub w/o heat on 110 outlet?
yes no parts needed
Conversion from 5500 to 1400 watts? Here in Europe, we have ~800W heatpump units...
Can you send me a model number of your dryer
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 Bauknecht TKSuperEco8116A3. Virtually no English-language information exists on it, but it's a German market version of the Whirlpool HSCX 80530.
@@NetRolller3D thanks
Why no ground connection to the new plug. Is that safe? Would it hurt to connect the ground up to the chasis.
There is a ground.
Very Interesting. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Scott thanks for watching friend.
How is the dryer working have you had any issues yet has a blown the fuse breaker
I reverted the dryer back to its original state it was just a test I heard about it previously from my stepfather as electrical Tech I wanted to test it and share it with everybody else I do not recommend anybody doing this if you're not electrician and if you do do it you do it on your own risk
Great Tip's Thank you I appreciate that
cloths won't shrink
I'd like to see this kind of go the other way. Rewire a 110 to 220... kind of....Currently I have an apartment sized washer and dryer and the dryer takes FOREVER to dry clothes because it's 110.
Anyway, I saw some videos where people take microwave transformers and make arc welders from them. I'm wondering if there is a way to use it to boost the dryer since the amp and voltage increase would come from the transformer and not the line.
First
No that would not work to add power you see the 110vac has a max amps of 20 amps
110vac * 20amps = 2,200 watts
A 220 dryer has a 30 amp fuse or trip switch
220vac * 30amps = 6,600 watts
Watts is what heats the system not volts
high voltage means less amps and that is why we use it for high power consumption systems
and a 220vac, 20amp dryer will use 4,400 watts
and if we tried to use 110 you would need 40 amps to get the same power out.
110vac * 40amps = 4400 watts
there is not 40amp 110vac breakers to make this happen.
Second
Transformer can make 220vac from 110vac and I have some here but the amps are divided by 2 if you have 110 primary and 220secondary your amp output would not be multiplied they would be divided by 2 with this amount of turns of wire
110vac * 20amp transformer primary
would give you a 220vac * 10amp secondary output
110vac * 20amp = 2200 watts
220vac * 20amp = 2200 watts
If no transmission losses occur.
Microwave transformer will kill any without mercy!!!!!!!!!! Don't play with electricity!!!!!!!!!!!
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 Thanks for response. In a lot of the videos they rewind the the transformer... I think the secondary to create the power to melt metal with their transformers.
It's beyond my understanding of electricity...which is zero.... I would never mess with it... which is why I presented it to someone else (you) that is smarter.
Do you know those combo all in one washer dryer things work? The same drum washes and dries clothes... how do they do that? Is it a special drum? Could a regular washing machine be converted into one?
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 - I think in your last section you meant to say 220v at (10) amps is 2200 watts
I will get a strike on youtube if i talk about that
the dryer is 5Kw of power @220vac
I h
ave a whirlpool dryer now the white wire is hooked up to ground only has 3 wires B, W, R ,is white my nuteral?
it's important to consult a licensed electrician when dealing with electrical issues in your home. It's not recommended to attempt to diagnose or fix electrical problems yourself if you're not qualified to do so.
I want to change a 110v dryer to 220?. Already have a 220-volt outlet.
cant happen
with amps less is safer
what is that going to do for you ?
@@frankc6430 I just used my range connection problem solved
That's not possible, You need another 120 volt wire to rise the voltage and probably the heater pack
What about 3 wires
I have green black and white. Do i conncet the ground?
I'm not sure my friend and it's not going to dry your close very fast if you wire it like that. you should not work on electricity at all if you don't know how to read the wiring drawing
cool project!
Thanks
Excelent
Won't you have to run it twice as long to dry the clothes?
Maybe 5 times longer
I try the same but the dryer run but no heat . What can I do?
Do not try this at home!!!!!
Unhook the motor from the system plug it into a different plug then plug the dryer in.
I don't know why people say 110v when really, both places I've lived like Oklahoma and California, it's 120v! Where do you get 110v? It even says 120v on your diagram there! Why are you saying 110v?
Not sure exactly, it's kinda funny like that. The stuff is rated at 120/240v but when you measure from the outlet, it's usually 110/220. 120v is under ideal conditions I guess, the ratings are always listed that way.
@@130rne Where I live, when there is no load on the outlet, the voltage is 120v. When you apply a load on it, the voltage drops according to how much amps it is pulling. The higher the amps, the lower your volts will drop.
It's like a water hose. When you apply pressure (volts), the voltage is high. When you release that pressure which generates amps, the voltage drops because it's flowing thru the hose with less resistance so it has less voltage buildup.
So what I'm saying is that before applying a load, you may have 120v to 116v but when there is a high load on that outlet, it will drop down to 114v to 109v depending on how much amperage you are using.
No house in America should have less than 115v before a load is applied! Anything less, and your appliances and electronics may not work correctly! If my computer battery backup gets down to 114v, it switches to battery mode to prevent damage to my computer!
I work on 3 phase power and in 3 phase power the leg to ground is 110 and single phase power is 120v sorry about that my friend
@@driversteve9345 I get you, though I've actually seen 108v on a house with crap wiring lol. So I just read up on a history lesson about it. tl;dr- 100v was initially used due to something about the carbon filament lightbulbs, they would blow at higher voltages. It was upped to 110/220 for a long time, now most modern ratings are 120/240. There's still old appliances around that have the 110/220 stickers. I get that an active load will increase current if the voltage drops in order to have consistent power but heating elements are passive, they're just giant resistors. Oh, and just learned that switch mode power supplies don't really care what voltage they run at. Something like 90-240 is fine. So that's probably an example of a device that pulls more current when the voltage drops, it's gotta maintain amperage to the rails. Maybe that's why the battery backup acts like that but maybe it just thinks the power is going out. The lead acid batteries in some power supplies are the same type that starts your car, they can handle a ton of current so I kinda think it's just trying to maintain voltage since most devices will just malfunction at low voltages. And typically devices won't fry due to low voltage, computers and stuff. So the battery maintains voltage, the psu maintains current, and the computer should be fine. That might be why we should all have quality psu's lol, because the cheaper ones will pull more current at low voltages and fry themselves unless they have good overcurrent/undervoltage protection. So like during a storm, if the power goes out it could actually fry a cheap psu. Just thought of that. Pretty sure I have all that right but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
@@driversteve9345 That's interesting about the different countries, in the states the voltage is maintained from what I've seen. Always near 120, I've only checked the outlets but they were on the same circuit as other loads, lights and stuff. So other countries design appliances to work on a wider range of voltages? Interesting.
You are smart I get it using solar panels. Or you could use two solar panel systems on different phases.
Hang them up outside to dry
I want to do a water heater
Need help with this buddy, I wasn't able to get it going
I can send pic how I completed, not why Dryer wouldn't turn on and has power
Electricity is very dangerous I wouldn't suggest doing this if you don't know what you're doing you can burn your house down
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 no worries. I know enough and think another video tutorial showed why it didn't work
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 neutral wire important from spare wire
*ungrounded parts of the machine.
Why or what is the reason to do this, still takes the same energy
It does not 5 kW of power consumption versus 1.4 kW of power consumption not even close do your math
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 Do your homework, 1/2 heat = 2X run full stop
@@helpAmerica1 First evaporation happens at any tempeture above 32 degrees with out the heater running.It will dry because the fan moving air and the tumbling of the tub. and ohm's law would make my homework 240 voltage and 20 amp's multiplied is 5000 watts = 18,000,000 joules, 120 voltage and 11.6 amp's multiplied is 1392 watts = 5,011.2 joules
1/2 of 18,000,000 joules = 9,000,000 joules So it's looking like i can do my homework with out you and you have failed this class
@@solarpowerelectricityandel2915 So using your math we only need tumble to dry clothes no heat required as long as your drier is inside.....brilliant ???
@@helpAmerica1 You're missing the point of the video reducing power consumption clothes will dry to hours with no heater
Por favor no hablo ingles me urge convertir una secadora 220 a 110 podrias subirlo al español o que alguien te tradusca te lo agradeceria mucho saludoa desde saltillo coahuila mexico
Would doing this cause the dryer to be less efficient? Like instead of drying ur clothes in 15 minutes on 220-240v it might take 30 or 40 on 110v?? I really dnt care as long as i can use my dryer lol.i have a huge samsung dryer, but the shit hole we r living in at the moment is only wired for 110 v.
IT's takes 1400 watts to run the dryer and not 5500 watts and this was a test i don't have time to run for 1.5 hours for a load
@Klaa2 No....... Man......
To be honest with you as long as you keep the house fairly warm 70 70 to 75 degrees you can run it without the heater running and disconnect the heater and only run the dryer in the fan that will tumble the clothes and during the normal course of evaporation use hardly any electricity but it will take an hour or so to dry your clothes maybe 2 hours but it won't use very much electricity
But if you don't know much about electricity don't even consider doing this you can find a used gas dryer and just knock hook up the gas and run it without heat
For example a gas dryer only hooks up to 110 volts it plug riding where the washing machine does and as long as you run it without the heat mode on it'll dry without heat but it'll also dry it just takes a very long time
11:48
just jump the wire and plug in why do that
Hard to plug in to a solar array with 240 unless u have the magnum split phase
Show what you did by doing it on camera. You’re not helping by simply talking about it. People learn from seeing you do the work.
Pretty much useless. You might as well just disconnect the heating elements completely. They are not getting hot enough to make much difference.
You're pretty much useless
Solar Power Electricity and Electronics Honestly, you are not getting enough heat out of the elements. So basically you are just blowing very slightly above room temperature air. You are using lots of watts and getting almost nothing out of it.
@@KevinCoop1 I disagree. I just completed this on my dryer. The unmodified system produces 155-160 degrees which is controlled by the running thermostat.
I scanned the temp difference and am getting 125 degrees, which is plenty to dry a load of towels, although it takes a little longer.
Cool, I just told a friend this. You might have to run it longer but theoretically it should work. 1500w is a space heater, it'll dry clothes, just takes awhile.
@@130rne Think of it this way. It takes a certain number of BTU’s of heat to dry a certain mount of wet clothes. So, with less heat and running longer, the same number of watts are used, but the length of time means it runs the motor longer. Your electric bill is based on watt hours. The dryer changed this way will cost more in energy costs. The last comment, the guy said the 160 degrees was controlled by a thermostat. That means it cycles on and off. At 120 volts, continuous running. Think it through before you do it. Respectfully, Kevin