Dealership tried quoting me an insulting amount of money to replace the fronts and backs, and new I was going to do it myself. Thanks for the tips and tricks, and I'll be doing this as soon as the weather gets a bit better.
Great video!!! Thanks so much. I had trouble compressing the piston, on the rear brakes. I had no idea I had to twist and push at the same time. Couldn't have done it without this video.
BE SURE TO HAVE AN E20 FEMALE TORX 1/2 INCH DRIVE FOR THIS JOB. IF YOU HAVE A STUBBORN BOLT YOU WILL STRIP OUT THE TORX HEAD. I GOT THREE OF THE BOLTS OUT AND THE FOURTH ONE STRIPPED OUT ON ME. WENT OUT AND GOT AN E20 SOCKET AND GOT THE BOLT OUT IN MINUTES.
@@cookie9589 They're not all bad. Just be sure they've been well maintained. Doing wear and tear repairs on my wife and I's 2013 Limited, which is supposedly the worst year of them all. Not seeing how, have put over 35k miles on it in just over a year without any issues. Doing 1 motor mount and all 4 corners in brakes. Rear shocks may be done next weekend.
On those rear calipers that slot is supposed to point face down and and line up with a bump on the back side of the rear brake pad. That's important part I feel that might have been overlooked
That helps! Thanks. Started changing my girlfriends and could not get the caliper bracket to budge with a 6 point 5/8 socket. It’ll try the 12 point wrench
great help man! thanks for the video.. they're charging me 280 per axle for just manpower.. I'ma gonna do it myself.. thanks for this hope it's the same on my dart 2014
I'm fairly certain when you twist the rear piston with pliers to move it back into the bore, it's adjusting the e-brake setting, which means now it is lose.. Probably better to use a large c-clamp to compress the piston to get the caliper back on.
I would recommend not EVER using impact wrenches on these lug nuts. They are chrome capped and they become deformed after impacting a couple times and eventually a socket won't fit over them or get so stuck on them, you're screwed. Very expensive to replace. Another quality Chrysler part! Compress the brake caliper piston before removing the caliper, easier in my experience.
You didn't mention anything about the caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts being one-time-use or what they should be torqued to. Are they one-time-use and what are the torque specs?
I've had problems with this cars lug nuts as well. I replaced them with some cheap aftermarkets from oreily's and have been doing fine since. I got the old ones of by just hammering a 19mm socket onto the lug nut and it got my bad ones off. Hope this helps
I know this is old, but a 20mm beat onto the lug with a hammer, then an impact wrench for removal did the trick for me. This was after I used a bolt removal kit with mixed results.
it was very helpful thank you. i really needed to watch this.i was not successful with the v-clips in the brake pads. so i didn't use the v-clips. how important are those v-clips if i don't reinstall them?
not if your need to put that new pads in. you have to use some type of clamp or press. if you push the brake you will make it extend out. something like thiswww.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-1-in-Drop-Forged-C-Clamp-with-1-in-Throat-Depth-CM10/205512963?&cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|B|0|B-BASE-D25T+Tools|&mid=WKz5aCU2|dc_mtid_8903vry57826_pcrid_73529856928951_pkw__pmt_e_
Hey Brandon thanks for the video. Quick question I have a 2015 Cherokee which I understand to be based in the Dart mechanically. Would this be the same technique doing it's brakes? Also I am starting to learn to work on my cars (Dart/Cherokee) to save money. Is there anything I should worry about with Chrysler products? I've heard they have everything moderated by the computer so you can't really work on your own car. Is that true?
If you're talking about when I compress the piston, no I don't. but I didn't bleed the lines on this car. I have never had a problem doing it this way on any car. but its not a bad idea to do that. Now if you are bleeding the brakes then yes have the cap off and make sure you top off the fluid as you go. you never want to run it dry.
What is the logic of using the wrong tool? I ordered an E20 socket off Amazon for maybe $10 max & had it in 1 day. If a $10 socket ordered with a few thumb presses on a smartphone screen is too much, I'm not sure what to tell you. The spec is 129 ft lbs on those bolts & like most all caliper bracket bolts, are single use. Micro encapsulated from factory. Is it worth possibly rounding the heads off to save $10? Good grief.
This is what most people call a helpful work around. In the event that you can't wait. Or in my case you have never need the tool before or after the job because you don't own the car. This is just a way to get around the issue. I think we all would agree that the right tool for the job is always the best option but it's really not a big deal as I was able to remove and reinstall all of them without issue. But thank you for your opinion.
Is there a difference between the pads? Like an inside and outside pad? I did my breaks about a week ago and have been getting a rubbing noise from the pads on the hub. Its only on the driver side and not the passenger side. I've changed them around and I'm still getting the same rubbing. Any info would be appreciated.
Hardware replacement and there is a nub on the piston that should fit under the thin backing pad of the pad. Also lightly grease the guide pins and the tabs on the pads where they contact the ss hardware clips
Dodge Darts are pieces of shit. I bought my wife a 2013 brand new and had it delivered and had nothing but problems. Great video though I was going to change the brakes but have to order the pads and rotors cuz they don't have them in stock
I love my 14 gt. It's got the 2.4 and manual transmission. That car doesn't like ethanol in the gas though have to run 91 octane ethanol free up here in Minnesota. Weather its 95 or -40 she starts right up parked outside no block heater
Problems with 2013: wrong steering rack installed (RT/GT installed on Rallye) caused steering wheel to shake & traction control light to come on, was only 1 month old and in shop for 26 days straight, ripped car apart before they found the issue. Corporate Chrysler took it back and gave me $2K towards a 2014, so I got the GT fully loaded. 8 months later: burning ALMOST 1 qt oil/1K miles.....they finally put a new engine in at 54K miles....I'll never buy another Dodge product. Search: SloJoCrow on the official Dodge Dart Forum: that's me.
Dealership tried quoting me an insulting amount of money to replace the fronts and backs, and new I was going to do it myself. Thanks for the tips and tricks, and I'll be doing this as soon as the weather gets a bit better.
Just bought my son a Dart for his first car and we are going to do the brakes tomorrow. Great video and thanks for all the tips.
Great video!!! Thanks so much. I had trouble compressing the piston, on the rear brakes. I had no idea I had to twist and push at the same time. Couldn't have done it without this video.
You’ve saved me who knows how much headache with this video! Thank you so much!
BE SURE TO HAVE AN E20 FEMALE TORX 1/2 INCH DRIVE FOR THIS JOB. IF YOU HAVE A STUBBORN BOLT YOU WILL STRIP OUT THE TORX HEAD. I GOT THREE OF THE BOLTS OUT AND THE FOURTH ONE STRIPPED OUT ON ME. WENT OUT AND GOT AN E20 SOCKET AND GOT THE BOLT OUT IN MINUTES.
I've been looking into buying a 2014 Dodge Dart. Glad to find your video and see how simple it can be. Thanks!
Isaac Delgado I really hope you didn’t buy one. They are nothing but problems! Buy a Toyota Camry or a Honda Civic
@@cookie9589 They're not all bad. Just be sure they've been well maintained. Doing wear and tear repairs on my wife and I's 2013 Limited, which is supposedly the worst year of them all. Not seeing how, have put over 35k miles on it in just over a year without any issues. Doing 1 motor mount and all 4 corners in brakes. Rear shocks may be done next weekend.
Doing my brakes and rotars tomorrow! Good video and im confident in doing this tomottow thanks to you. Thanks!
Thanks Bro, this helped a lot with my wife's Dart brakes
Thank you so much you saved a disaster could not do it without you thank you so very much.
Hey I like your video. I have a Dodge Dart 2013.
You are a talented do it yourself mechanic!
thank you, right to the point. Just the stuff you need to know.
Thanks for the info... the more stuff I can do on my own at home, the more money I can save.
Thanks for the rear brake tips, appreciate what you do.
Thanks for sharing! Saves DIYs lots of grief!
Great video, very helpful
Great video, thank you very much, you was very helpfull
On those rear calipers that slot is supposed to point face down and and line up with a bump on the back side of the rear brake pad. That's important part I feel that might have been overlooked
That helps! Thanks. Started changing my girlfriends and could not get the caliper bracket to budge with a 6 point 5/8 socket. It’ll try the 12 point wrench
Thanks, Nice video. Very helpful for us DIY people.
No problem. Thank you for the comment
great help man! thanks for the video.. they're charging me 280 per axle for just manpower.. I'ma gonna do it myself.. thanks for this hope it's the same on my dart 2014
Should be. I just was getting at mine last night. 2014 gt 6 SPD manual
Thank you so much for the caliper trick!!!
no problem.
Gonna tackle this today. Thanks for the info.
Very helpful! Doing mine today
great tips will be doin my 2014 soon
Charlie Bertrand is it the same with the 2014? have you replaced yours? planning to replace mine when the weather is good
Very very helpful thanks a lot sir.
Thank you be doing all four this week-end. very helpful
Tanks. Very detailed video
great video learn alot keep them cominig
Thanks!!!
Very helpful
I use a clamp on the rear pads, get the caliper on and move the clamps. That way you can use two hands too put on.
Very helpful info!
I'm fairly certain when you twist the rear piston with pliers to move it back into the bore, it's adjusting the e-brake setting, which means now it is lose.. Probably better to use a large c-clamp to compress the piston to get the caliper back on.
The piston WILL NOT go back in with a C Clamp, you have to twist them back in. It's the way they are designed to be done.
Thanks dude!!!
where are you mounting on the lifts under the car?
I would recommend not EVER using impact wrenches on these lug nuts. They are chrome capped and they become deformed after impacting a couple times and eventually a socket won't fit over them or get so stuck on them, you're screwed. Very expensive to replace. Another quality Chrysler part! Compress the brake caliper piston before removing the caliper, easier in my experience.
Cannot do that on the rear, have to turn the piston in.
@@treverk8376 oh, the wheel lug nut pistons! I forgot about those. 🤣
@@takeitasacompliment. I was talking about the caliper piston. Lol
I wanted to know if you can tell me how to adjust the parking brake in a 2015 Dodge Dart sxt 2.4
You didn't mention anything about the caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts being one-time-use or what they should be torqued to. Are they one-time-use and what are the torque specs?
no there not a 1 time use. and the torque spec is "tight" i'm not sure what it is.
FYI on every brake job especially dodge dart clean and re grease the brake pin or else you will hear a rattle noise
Thanks for tips
How to Adjust the Stationary Brake on the 2013 Dodge Dart Aerial
Go to 13 min in the video
My new break pads didnt come with the holes for the spring. I went to O’Reillys and they told me thoses were it???
Thank you so much! How can you remove swollen lugnut/bolt on these as well?
Curse at them, yell a lot. I have no real remedy
I've had problems with this cars lug nuts as well. I replaced them with some cheap aftermarkets from oreily's and have been doing fine since. I got the old ones of by just hammering a 19mm socket onto the lug nut and it got my bad ones off. Hope this helps
I know this is old, but a 20mm beat onto the lug with a hammer, then an impact wrench for removal did the trick for me. This was after I used a bolt removal kit with mixed results.
How can you adjust the emergency brake
👍
Awesome.
I would like to see taking those H8 bolts out. Access is a pain.
Great video. I stripped that book that holds the rotor on. Am I screwed?
Don Clark no its not needed
Brandon Bomoney thanks man, just upgraded my brakes on my dart for less than $200. Thanks to your video, it was easy. Have a good one.
When you changed your back brakes, what position did you leave the parking brake? Up or down?
Down
it was very helpful thank you. i really needed to watch this.i was not successful with the v-clips in the brake pads. so i didn't use the v-clips. how important are those v-clips if i don't reinstall them?
its not a big deal it just helps with noise, by pulling the pads off the rotors.but I wouldn't stress about it.
OK.thank you
When compressing the pistons all you have to do is step on the breaks a few times right?
not if your need to put that new pads in. you have to use some type of clamp or press. if you push the brake you will make it extend out. something like thiswww.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-1-in-Drop-Forged-C-Clamp-with-1-in-Throat-Depth-CM10/205512963?&cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|B|0|B-BASE-D25T+Tools|&mid=WKz5aCU2|dc_mtid_8903vry57826_pcrid_73529856928951_pkw__pmt_e_
having a hell of a time trying to break the bracket bolts loose on the passenger side. any ideas or suggestions ?
PIERPILING penetrating oil and use a hammer to hit on the wrench
Hey Brandon thanks for the video. Quick question I have a 2015 Cherokee which I understand to be based in the Dart mechanically. Would this be the same technique doing it's brakes? Also I am starting to learn to work on my cars (Dart/Cherokee) to save money. Is there anything I should worry about with Chrysler products? I've heard they have everything moderated by the computer so you can't really work on your own car. Is that true?
I couldn't tell you to much about the new stuff. But as far as the brakes go yeah they should be about the same
@@brandonbomoney7597 Thank you
when you bleed the lines, do you just take off the brake fluid cap while your working?
If you're talking about when I compress the piston, no I don't. but I didn't bleed the lines on this car. I have never had a problem doing it this way on any car. but its not a bad idea to do that. Now if you are bleeding the brakes then yes have the cap off and make sure you top off the fluid as you go. you never want to run it dry.
I changed my back breaks on my 2013 dart and now my e break is real loose. Any idea what I could have done wrong ?
Did you pump your brakes before you tested it?
Where did you get that dual wrench? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
I got it off a cornwell tool truck. But it's made by gearwrench so it should be on their website
🖒😎👌 good job
thank you, big help!
What is the logic of using the wrong tool? I ordered an E20 socket off Amazon for maybe $10 max & had it in 1 day. If a $10 socket ordered with a few thumb presses on a smartphone screen is too much, I'm not sure what to tell you. The spec is 129 ft lbs on those bolts & like most all caliper bracket bolts, are single use. Micro encapsulated from factory. Is it worth possibly rounding the heads off to save $10? Good grief.
This is what most people call a helpful work around. In the event that you can't wait. Or in my case you have never need the tool before or after the job because you don't own the car. This is just a way to get around the issue. I think we all would agree that the right tool for the job is always the best option but it's really not a big deal as I was able to remove and reinstall all of them without issue. But thank you for your opinion.
thanks for the video very halpful
Can I contact you privately about permission to use this video in a movie project?
you sure can
Just send me a message on facebookfacebook.com/brandon.bohaychyk.7
RITE ON ;-)
Thank you
Is there a difference between the pads? Like an inside and outside pad? I did my breaks about a week ago and have been getting a rubbing noise from the pads on the hub. Its only on the driver side and not the passenger side. I've changed them around and I'm still getting the same rubbing. Any info would be appreciated.
I have the exact same pads as well. The BrakeBest select ceramics from O'reilys.
Hardware replacement and there is a nub on the piston that should fit under the thin backing pad of the pad. Also lightly grease the guide pins and the tabs on the pads where they contact the ss hardware clips
Don’t forget to pump the brakes reeeeeee because I just hit a building because I forgot to pump my brakes
Dodge Darts are pieces of shit. I bought my wife a 2013 brand new and had it delivered and had nothing but problems. Great video though I was going to change the brakes but have to order the pads and rotors cuz they don't have them in stock
You got that right, more problens with my 2013 than ALL OTHER VEHICLES i've owned COMBINED !!!
I love my 14 gt. It's got the 2.4 and manual transmission. That car doesn't like ethanol in the gas though have to run 91 octane ethanol free up here in Minnesota. Weather its 95 or -40 she starts right up parked outside no block heater
Problems with 2013: wrong steering rack installed (RT/GT installed on Rallye) caused steering wheel to shake & traction control light to come on, was only 1 month old and in shop for 26 days straight, ripped car apart before they found the issue. Corporate Chrysler took it back and gave me $2K towards a 2014, so I got the GT fully loaded. 8 months later: burning ALMOST 1 qt oil/1K miles.....they finally put a new engine in at 54K miles....I'll never buy another Dodge product. Search: SloJoCrow on the official Dodge Dart Forum: that's me.
@@RimShotWiLLEy sounds more like a bad dealership
I have a 2016 Dart GT 2.4, 6spd manual.
Never had any issues except basic maintenance.
Great video . very informative