Hard To Start? Check Those Check Valves!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Monkey Wrench Mike’s 560SEC is difficult to start. Could it be a fuel issue? This video will show you how to replace the Check Valves on a Mercedes W126 and other models.
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I love Monkey Wrench Mike but after watching every one of his videos I run out to the garage and give my Lexus a big hug.
Best comment ever!!
There is a vacuum check valve, as you face the engine outside the car, on your right which runs right below your line of sight. This controls the air vacuum flow. So, we you put on the gas, too much gas is introduced and you should check the BLUE/Brown/White (any that look those colors) for a leak. They do leak and will drive you nuts when you use up so much of a tank so fast and that vacuum controls A LOT of other Mercedes features like the rear trunk auto-handle and many other besides just making your initial idle ideal. Contact me if you have any questions. I have a 1992 MB 500SEL and am fixing a lot of little stuff....so more conversation is great!
I live in NY and my car sounds like that on a nice cold winter day!! I’m sorry that all the help I can lend you!! Great channel Mike! :)
Thank you!!
If you are sure it is a fuel issue another place to check is the fuel pickup in the fuel tank. If it is cracked it may be sucking in air causing your issue. I would hook up a fuel pressure gauge though and watch the pressure while it is acting up to verify it is a fuel issue first though. Other places to check would be the fuel pressure regulator. I’m not familiar with old Mercedes but that should give you a start.
If he would had a crack in the tank would have a leak
gianfrancoa the fuel pickup is located inside the fuel tank. You wouldn’t see a fuel leak. It would either leak back into the fuel tank, or it may try to suck air. In both cases the fuel may have a hard reaching the fuel pump causing a hard start, or hesitation at higher demands. Regardless, a fuel pressure test meter would help with diagnosis.
@@Shawnsullivan7 i I thought the pick up was in the bottom of the tank like the w201
gianfrancoa you could be right, I’m not sure. If that’s the case perhaps the screen could be clogged? Like I said, I’m not very familiar with older Mercedes.
Best Musical interludes on RUclips! The repairs ain't bad either! lol.... Good job Mike. Keep the content coming!
Almost 6K subs!!! You're getting closer to that 10K mark man!! :)
Little by little!!
I was having this oroblem with my1983 sec, it has around 260,000 miles on it. I installed all new injectors, and new plugs, that solved the startjng problem I had. The engjne runs so smooth now, and the acceleration is quick, and smooth alsoi it runs 100% better. I don't have any more startkng problems now.
that large hose that fits in that loop is the right rear sunroof drain tube
The more you look, the more you see. The more repairs you need, means more videos to watch for me. LOL
Yahoo!!
I had same crazy issue at idle with economy gage going up at idling, and then sometimes stalling on acceleration at low rpm. A simple adjustment of the air fuel mix through the 3mm allen wrench hole on the ail filter fixed it.
What car do you have?
@@runelarsen5769 w126 560SEC
I've mentioned this a bunch of times in your videos - have you checked fuel pressure? There is a cheap Harbor Freight tester that has the correct fitting. There is a simple fuel port right on the passenger side of the fuel distributor. that taps right in. It's literally easier than everything you have done.
After that, are you sure you don't have clogged cats?
Second, have you confirmed the correct routing for the spark plugs?
Third - make sure your timing is a 0 deg TDC and that nobody has tried to mess with the distributor. These need to be set at TDC since the ignition module controls timing unlike the early cars.
Fourth - check the primary wire to the coil near the ABS unit. Make sure that there isn't corrosion inside the primary coil and the resistance on that cable is good.
Fifth - check the actual ignition module - remove the vacuum plug
Sixth - there is a 3mm hex inside the tower on the fuel distributor that can be used to adjust idle air mixture. People love tot futz with it. Leave it alone for now, but you may want to look into it.
I’m going to buy one pronto!!
@@MonkeyWrenchMike harbor freight may not work
these systems have special two port gauge
www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-CIS-K-jetronic-pressure-testing-tool-meter-control-pressure/163678162540
Hi Mike. Thank you for the video. I'm having the same stalling issue with my w124 300ce. Looking forward for another update. Thanks
Hey sir where did you purchase your check valves from if you could tell me please
Love your videos Mr Mike! My 300se (also w126) refuses to start she hasnt run in 4 months, good compression, new fuel pump and filter, recon the tank, new coil, rotor and rotor button, injectors are good buddy of mine tested them and it has good fuel pressure. Thinking of changing the crankshaft sensor...I feel your pain man!
Yikes! Good luck with that!
To eliminate if it's a fuel issue or not you'll want to use a fuel pressure gauge compare your readings to the specs. If that checks out You can move on to other issues. Hope this helps. Have a great day!
After start your Econ gauge is already at 1/3. That tells me u have a vacuum issue. Should be full throw left. Did u resolve this issue? New subscriber this week. Did not look at a follow up video yet.
I had been having hard starts for a while. The engine would require two or three tries before it would crank and hold a good idle. Finally, my engine started stalling at random times in addition to the hard starts.
My mechanic and I agreed that it was either something fuel or electric that was causing it. I discovered that it was the fuel pump relay. It took a while to find and I discovered the issue after breaking down on the way home.
TSing tip: turn the ignition on and apply pressure to the fuel pump relay. While doing this listen to see if you here something engage within seconds of you applying pressure.
Alternatively, you can apply pressure to the fuel pump relay while someone cranks the engine. See if it turns over more easily.
Common problem with injectors is they leak after you turn key off and kinda flood engine so it starts hard on hot restarts and when it does start you will see some black smoke out tail pipe and rough idle till it all gets burned out.
This sounds exactly like the issue with my 500SEC. What would be the fix for this? Thank you,!
Thing with the plug on the side of the fuel distributor I had the the sam issue a while replaced fuel distributor you name it I’ve done it haven’t try Ed the check Val’s may try that after that I am buying another ford ranger can’t go wrong
I have fuel at the line going to the filter, but the check valve in the input side of the fuel filter seems to be stopped up
Mate, your a tryer, keep at it reminds of myself, except haven't been game to do it. All the best.
I think the fuel distributor is having issues. you should check the fuel pressure and also make sure the injectors are in good shape.
I noticed when you turned the key the firsty time the oil presure was on cero , cero ,cero then it went up a little bit . And then when you turned the key the second time the oil presure was on 2 , and it started right up . 1:06
EPA sensor on the side of the fuel distributor take off and there a srew that needs to be turned there a Visio on this some were on here some were also spray some gum out cleaner down the throttle body see if that helps also put some in the gas see if that helps mine is real sensitive I love the car I really don’t know why it’s such a pain in my you know what I just drove mine today I gave 1500 for the car I got about 5000 in it 😊
I have the same issue on my 560SL takes long for the first start all of a sudden , then when warm starts at first attempt , what is the part number for those check valves?
Mike me and you must be brothers from another mother ! I got the same car at the same time and am following your lead ! Raise your wrenches up to JESUS !!!!
Hallelujah!! Maybe between the 2 of us, we can get our cars back on the road!!
wish i could give an option on what may be the issue but im not in tune enough to mercedies to even begin to make a hypothesis. sry mike
Looks at least most of your vacuum leaks are fixed, even the fancy economy gauge working! Kind of remember some older Mercs had a small micro switch on gas linkage, it activates just on idle and off the idle. This is just now guessing, so if there is this kinda micro switch, make sure it is clicking and working on linkage.
Hey, i'm thinking of doing this repair soon. Do you have a part number?
Also, i'm wondering what i'm supposed to do to not have fuel flooding over me?
Do you clamp a particular hose in advance? Thank you!
I'd like to no the issue after the check valve install
Hey Mike love that background music. Oh by the way the video was good.
Does your vacuum gauge now stay to the right side? Otherwise you still have a vacuum leak...
Nope. Still have that vacuum leak
@@MonkeyWrenchMike The problem with leaks under the manifold is that the access is very limited without complete disassembly. You should try the smoke test again, but try to pump in lots of smoke...
DOES UR PROBLEM VEHICLE HV AN ACCELERATOR PEDAL ISSUE AND NEED TO REPLACE? MY SLK DID. IT OPERATED ELECTRONICALLY
Thanks
The check valves were ok, I have no idea why you replaced them. Check the EHA, fuel pressure regulator, fuel distributor and the coolant sensor, please check the voltage for some items first. Change all the fuses to brass, dont forget to adjust the air fuel mixture. Call me cynical because for some reason I think you know whats wrong with your car.
Well, you got your gas problem fixed. If not maybe you should get some Rolaids (tm). Seriously you may have an ignition or a injection problem. I am far from a Merc expert as I haven't worked for a dealership since the 70s. I could also be a air leak in the intake manifold.
🎵He’s checking his valves, he’s checking them twice. 🎶
🎼Gonna find out which is naughty or nice!! 🎼
Why didn't you attach a fuel pressure gauge to your fuel rail, to prove to your viewers the before and after response of your repair? This is a critical step to prove your point.
I would check the fuel pressure and go from their,doesn't sound like its getting enough fuel under load.
Yep - you can buy a good kit at Harbour freight. Fuel pressure is important on C.I.S. and E.F.I.
Have you adjusted the C/O screw (takes a 3.5 mm allen wrench) there is a hole in the air filter so you can adjust it while all is assembled. Should be done with a c/o meter but It kinda works like adjusting the air fuel screws on a carb (kinda). I also can tell you a smoke machine is in order here first to make sure on any vacuum leaks. also those c.i.s. injectors if they are old or most likely originals they will need replaced - they are cheap compared to EFI injectors. Also do all the injector holders and seals probably gonna spend around $300.00 or so on all that. I think FCP Euro has about the best price. Mercedes Source is great but not so much on part prices. But only fair to spend some with him so you can get that free good advice!!
Thanks. I’ve done 2 smoke tests (see videos) so there are no leaks. I’ll look into the C/O screw.
@@MonkeyWrenchMike Yes I saw that and I'm almost sure you missed one coming from under the air flow plate where there is a very large rubber boot that cracks and fails. I have had to smoke test these old cars numerous times to find all the leaks. It has a lot of places where they can leak! and they are nearing 40 years and I saw your car also has 173k miles.
Very true! I’ll check it out. Thanks!!
Is there any idea to upgrade the fuel distributor to any newer system?
I haven’t heard of anyone doing that. It’s a very complicated system
Hi Mike checkout
Fuel pressure
Injectors
Old dirty gas tank and fuel lines can cause issues, the car just chokes and sits then goes again based on my previous experiences with my 94 560 SEC in Europe.
You may have a damaged seal underneath the intake manifold, these tend to go bad with time - and judging by the condition of all the other rubber components, I think it is very likely.
You should also use the X11 port and get some readings by measuring the duty cycle - using PIN #2, #3 and #6. If you need more I can send you some links.
Thanks for the tips!
it starts up better, I would check the pickup tube in the tank it maybe sucking air? somewhere to start at?
Thx!
I have same issue but second start its make screetch noise
I like the video.
Great job Mike
THere's an inexpensive tool from Gunsons' that will show you if you are running rich or lean; you stick a hose up into the exhaust and it tests the CO2 level. Another way is to test the Oxy sensor directly, but that will only give you one side, not both. I agree, I think it's a mixture problem. More than likely, the mixture was changed to counteract the vacuum leaks.
I’ll check into that tool! Thanks!!
@@MonkeyWrenchMike mixture need to be check with "duty cycle meter" or oscilloscope
between pins 1 and 3 on 51270d1199843300-560sl-diagnostic-port-tool-diagnostic-port.jpg
www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/mercedes-benz-sl-discussion-forum/51270d1199843300-560sl-diagnostic-port-tool-diagnostic-port.jpg
Hey Mike. Thanks for the video. I’m having warm start issues. Starts right up when cold. It wouldn’t be the check valve, right? If it starts up cold then it’s holding fuel pressure. That’s my guess. Thanks
Yup!
@@MonkeyWrenchMike I’ll cross that off my list. I hope I find the issue soon. Super frustrating.
Difference between D & P may both be a transmission problem and a fuel problem. Nice fix on the check valve though. I have seen on MB you fix something, something else goes wrong lol
Not because it is a MB - it's the 40 y o rubber crap - motor mounts, bushings, hoses, vacuum plastic connectors and plastic lines. etc. etc. etc
Nice video 😊
Putt afuil pressure gage
Hello me old flower now this is a shot in the dark, if I remember correctly the fuel tank was full of crap and even though you drained it and added clean fuel along with the fuel filter I can't stop wondering if there was still trash in the tank and has partially blocked the filter. You would get enough fuel to start and rev the engine but not when the engine is under load. Could you try a separate fuel supply to determine whether it's a fuel supply issue from the tank or not. Hell's bells a serious reply for once 😃 I must be under the weather. Quick joke why did Mrs Christmas divorce Father Christmas........ Because he woul only come once a year. 😮😮🤭😂. Gary... England 🇬🇧
I can always count on you for a good laugh, Gary!! Thanks for the tip. I’ve been wondering about that too!!
Mike I know when I have fiddled with the idle control valve it is easy to get a vacume leak on the little tube you broke that goes between the two rubber hoses (dose rubbarow Hoesays) these cars are picky. Thats why I have my f150 ( eff Juan fiftey) for our spanish speaking friends... to get to the junk yard ( yooonk yard) that little tube is a odd size and when I tried other tubes it had bad results
you can still buy the hose both plastic and rubber in meters at a MB dealer and it will fit correctly. Those larger rubber hoses around the idle valve are also still available
Where is the check valve location on a 2000 silverado?
I’m not familiar with pickups.
Have you check if you have a strainer in the incoming fuel line to the fuel distributor? It seems you need to have an in depth analysis ok the k jetronic. I have a Bosch manual that goes in detail. I can email you if you need it
That’d be fantastic! Monkeywrenchmike123@gmail.com
Mike!!! did you get it fixed?
Hey mister Mike how you doing sir I was wondering where did you purchase to check valves at cuz I need the same thing for my vehicle is a 1990 Mercedes 300C and what did you purchase the check valves from I'm having a hard time trying to find them thanks
Here you go - www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-fuel-pump-check-valve-jetta-1587010536
Mike OK another all day watching you working on your fleet. I have decided I want your new SL350 convert if you will help me keep it running. Today you sort of lost your cool on your oldest project and I have walked many miles in those shoes I assure you. I have 4 Copart wrecks in my shop/Barn and like Randy I can't explain why I just liked them but used the excuse they will be my Bucket list. I want one of those E55 V8 super charged but they are either torn up by keddie street racers are they are junk and if not junk they are too high and out my class.
Ha! Thanks Ronald. I’m still kicking. Ya elf for not buying a C55 that was at a copart auction with a buy it no of $2,000. We both suffer from this horrible Mercedes dementia!
Hey Mike, My father just gave me a 1986 W126. It has been sitting for quite some time. I changed the fuel pumps, accumulator, and filter.....but still no starts. The old carb trick will get it going to a few seconds (but that's scary to me!) Any suggestions?
Is fuel making it to the injectors? Check the fuel rail then injector. How bad was the gas tank? It may be filling the filter with debris. Good luck!
@@MonkeyWrenchMike When I changed the screen it looked like gold mud fell out. It starts now and dies within 5 -8 seconds.....almost like it just runs out of steam. I guess a tank clean is in order (SMH).
And replace the window washer level sensor to make that yellow light go away LOL
I bought a reservoir. I broke the original installing a battery- lol
@@MonkeyWrenchMike that would have bought 2-3 of the 8 needed injectors. LOL
I see bad bushings and CV boots. Look at the card (I know I am old don't know what it is called on that car) and clean it out looked dirty to me. Not to mention how old is that gas and if it is old get some fresh gas in it
New gas. Bushings are ordered. Thanks!
Mike, check the fuel distributor for leaks by disconnecting all the fuel lines from the top and jump the fuel pump without starting the car, if fuel comes out from any channel then it's leaking and need a rebuild (rubber parts inside are eaten up due to ethanol in new gas which this fuel system wasn't designed for), if no leaks detected then check all the injectors as you are still using used ones which doesn't guarantee they are working properly (Edd China from wheeler dealers demonstrate injectors testing when they restored their blue SL Mercedes, so you can build something similar that may serve the purpose), obviously you have wrong air fuel ratio that causing the car to stall from what I believe, bu my guts are telling me is the fuel distributor and there is a guy rebuild them his name is Victor and has a RUclips channel so check him out, BTW the new re-manufactured fuel distributor is a special order form Germany and cost $6500!!!! so ... Good luck brother.
you know these,
respect!
Great (and expensive) information!! I’ll give it a try!
Hi this alhagie saine from the gambia
Do they have cold start pressure regulator like on vw if so that will be issue
No this is C.I.S. they have a a fuel distributor and pressure regulation is done with a valve in the fuel distributor.
Is it Bosch k jetronic
@@christhackrsy yes and yes VW Audi BMW Mercedes and others used it back in the 70's 80's 90's it was used 73-94
ruclips.net/video/65-03E4UXWg/видео.html
"cold start injector? and ?pressure regulator" are two different things
so wich one you asking for ?
Is that fresh gas?
Yup!!
Forget the fuel pressure... it's the devil again, either as a demon or a poltergeist. Sell it as-is, take the loss - and say seven Hail Mary's. 👿
But that’s my favorite car!! Lol
Mine too Mike, something will come of it and you'll be driving a dream.
You have angered the Almighty Mercedes Gods of Reliability by trying to fix everything on your car, you must always leave something broken to please them.
Ha!
check the crankshaft position sensor, ur not getting any movement on the rev counter when starting. it should register the cranking speed of the engine. please check SHADOWRIDER460 channel, he has a video for his 420 sel with start issues he fixed. turned out to be a bad speed sensor. he shows how to test it etc. worth a peek, could help. anyways, lovin your channel, your great craic😁. all the best from Ireland. 🇮🇪🍀
Your gas issue and exhaust leak could be due to eating too many cheap Baked Beans! Try buying better quality Baked Beans, and eating fewer of them! That might cure your issue? Idling fine in Park, but not in Drive, could b e idle solenoid that should engage, in the same manner as when it has extra load during the summer when the A/C is on?
Sounds like clogged cats
Yikes! I’ll remove an O2 sensor and see
the hurryder you go,the behinder you get....
What about checking your own valves, you jellyfish???
First
Interesting..love from the UK