100% you can, I have heard you can also apply them directly over the acrylics without a top coat as well. (Though I always recommend to apply a top coat in between each “stage”)
Well that would depend on what base the gunmetal is. If you used acrylic you would want to use an acrylic top coat and others the same. Match the base paint with the top coat.
Honestly kinda both, mostly when it’s a kit I’ve never built before I’ll snap it together to see where seam lines are that I need to address and where parts line up that way it gives me a mental road map of how the kit will look and this also gives me ideas on color separation.
I’m not sure what you mean by stacked the armor plates? And yes it is, I just used it to kinda give the frame some realism and to panel line it as well
Thx for the video. I have a question. When apply dry brush (on armour), I normally put on a layer of flat coat before dry brush. That will give a rusty, paint drop effect. But here I notice you apply dry brush directly on top of gloss coat. Does that give a metallic effect to the inner frame?
Sorry for taking so long to reply; You can use dry brushing as a way to add a ton of detail and you hit the nail on the head. If you use a matte coat before dry brushing it will pick up all of the little “bumps” the matte leaves behind but a metallic color over matte will give it a more dull look, so if you want your metallic dry brushing to look more metallic then you apply it over a gloss coat.
That is an excellent question. The surfacer itself doesn’t have to be gloss but the base coat before metallics needs to be. The reason behind this is simple. The shinier the base coat the more the metallic shines. So for instance I have Mr Surfacer 1500 black and then I go over that (once I have sanded and smoothed the surface and re primed) with ALCLAD Gloss black base and then my metallic color.
Unfortunately you’re kinda limited with hobby rattle cans. However a really good brand (that makes larger cans) is “Army Painter” they have some decent metallics.
Hi I’m a rather new builder and planning to paint my MG Wing kit’s inner frame. But I have some concerns regarding the joints especially around the knees and elbows. I mean after I’m done and armor it all up etc then articulating it for poses wouldn’t it scratch those parts? What do you do wih your kits regarding this? Any tips or maybe insight on what people usually do? Thanks for the help
Hi Gerry, and welcome to the hobby officially lol it would all depend on what type of paint you use. Acrylics will rub off, quite easily unfortunately....BUT there are two things you can do to combat this. The first being the easiest, using thin coats of paint and immediately covering with a solid gloss coat will aid in preventing that (it’s still not 100% foolproof though.) The second would be to “pre sand” those pesky joint areas (or any other areas that will eventually rub) and then even with semi thicker coats you shouldn’t have any issues. Enamels will have the same type of issue as acrylics being that they can be rubbed off rather easy but the above still applies. Now if you’re using lacquer based paints it takes a GREAT deal of rubbing and scratching to cause it rub off. They are the most forgiving when it comes to that but the ones you need to worry about breathing in the most. I hope this helps you my friend and if you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to shoot them my way. If I don’t know them I know TONS of people who do! :)
@@NotSoAverageBuilder Hand brush, but nvm now...lol. After trying a few things, the Vallejo polished gold looks better than I thought it would. I'm working on a Gyancelot right now, and those gold wrap around stickers look like garbage, haha.
@@NotSoAverageBuilder I wanna try the Vallejo Game Air metallics sometime, since I heard they hand brush really well too, but nah, I just meant the plain jane Vallejo Game gold.
Greetings NSAB, New to the channel. I have extensive work with Games Workshop models, hand brushing all of them with mostly their own Citadel paint line. So, acrylics are what Im comfortable with, but I'm trying to push myself. Watching this video gives me hope I can achieve a better metallic finish, not just on the frame but the armor panels as well. What Im not sure Im getting is the process you used for getting silver on the frame to start with. Ive been using Army Painter's matt black gloss, and never had an issue with my other projects. So, assuming that works, I think you are saying the next step is a clear gloss. could something like GW's 'Ard Coat work? it is a hand brush high gloss substance. The next step is adding the silver. This should go over the gloss, from what I can tell, does that have to be sprayed on, or is there a brush on metal for this stage? The final question in regards to the wash, do you think GW's Nuln Oil would work? I realize I wouldnt have the ability to clean off the parts with thinner and a q-tip, but I could do a targeted wash and just aim for the recesses.
Hi Corrina, welcome to the channel! If you are using a gloss black primer then there is no next step (except for applying your silver.) That being said, acrylic metallics aren’t going to be as vibrant lacquer based ones. So there lies issue number one, lacquer based paints don’t do very well with hand brushing because they dry so quickly. I would say that a lot of making your metallics pop (even acrylic ones) would be your detail. What I mean by that is your recess details, even though you don’t have access to a thinner for the stuff I used but using Nuln oil you can still achieve similar results doing a type of dirty wash. What that means is not being as controlled in your application and you can take some Vallejo flow improver or thinner to thin the wash out in strategic areas. BE CAREFUL THOUGH, because you are using acrylic paints and washes the thinner will reactivate your previous layers. So a way you can combat this is to use a rattle can clear coat (these are usually lacquer based) this will prevent the wash from causing an ill effect on your amazing paint job. I hope this helps you and doesn’t confuse you lol
Not So Average Builder I use the Tamiya water based paints. Do you think I can still use those or do I have to change it up to oil based? And which do you prefer? Thanks
I’m not sure what you mean. The oil based paints I used were for the wash stage. The main paint I used was lacquer based. The Tamiya acrylic paints are basically lacquer paints that act strange ha ha they are closer to lacquer paints than anything else though.
And as far as still using the Tamiya paints absolutely. They are great airbrush paints but they don’t do as well for hand brushing because they dry out so quick. They can also dry brush pretty well
Get yourself some lacquer thinner and any and all paint will dissolve! If it’s acrylics then use some IPA and poof it’s gone (enough to spray at least lol) then when you have time you can fully clean
No problem at all brother! I’ll be doing an airbrush screw up video soon. To help show everyone how simple it is to fix mistakes :) also I’m watching your RG Saz photo etch video as we speak! Ha ha
@@NotSoAverageBuilder Holy cow yes please! 😁 I'd love that. I'm about to explore gunpla customization for my video content and not just snap building and reviewing kits 😅 Dang bro, I totally appreciate the support. Thank you for watching my RG Sazabi video. :) 👊👊
Its amazing what you can do with something so simple. I love it man. Amazing stuff
:) thanks bro! Yeah I love that with just a little time and very little effort you can drastically change the look of something! :)
i feel like mix matching matte and metallic frames on gunpla with using subtle oil wash and dry brush also looks really nice too
Oh it definitely does, if you use real world items for inspiration you see a ton of mixed finishes.
Great video. I ordered an Arttystation Piccolo last week and used your code. I finished putting it together last night and love it already.
That’s freakin awesome my friend! :) and thank you! I hope you get a ton of use out of that piccolo!
Really great tips and work, thank you!
new sub. I came from the facebook group. love the video going to try this on my MG barbatos.
Thank you for the sub my friend! I can’t wait to see the results, don’t forget to tag me in it when you finish it! :)
With the MR.Weathering supplies can you use that on acrylics? Specifically Vallejo model air colors?
100% you can, I have heard you can also apply them directly over the acrylics without a top coat as well. (Though I always recommend to apply a top coat in between each “stage”)
I was thinking about getting gun metal and I like to know what kind of top coat can I use protect
Well that would depend on what base the gunmetal is. If you used acrylic you would want to use an acrylic top coat and others the same. Match the base paint with the top coat.
Do you snap built everything then dissamble everything to paint or do you paint before assembly?
Honestly kinda both, mostly when it’s a kit I’ve never built before I’ll snap it together to see where seam lines are that I need to address and where parts line up that way it gives me a mental road map of how the kit will look and this also gives me ideas on color separation.
What if a stacked the armor plates, what do I do to make it blend in? Also is using the weathering color optional?
I’m not sure what you mean by stacked the armor plates? And yes it is, I just used it to kinda give the frame some realism and to panel line it as well
@@NotSoAverageBuilder what i meant is after I did the metallic finish what do I do to the armor to make it blend in?
Oh I understand. Well you could do a metallic red color over the armor parts so that they blend in to each other
Thx for the video.
I have a question. When apply dry brush (on armour), I normally put on a layer of flat coat before dry brush. That will give a rusty, paint drop effect.
But here I notice you apply dry brush directly on top of gloss coat. Does that give a metallic effect to the inner frame?
Sorry for taking so long to reply;
You can use dry brushing as a way to add a ton of detail and you hit the nail on the head. If you use a matte coat before dry brushing it will pick up all of the little “bumps” the matte leaves behind but a metallic color over matte will give it a more dull look, so if you want your metallic dry brushing to look more metallic then you apply it over a gloss coat.
Why does the surfacer need to be gloss?
That is an excellent question. The surfacer itself doesn’t have to be gloss but the base coat before metallics needs to be.
The reason behind this is simple. The shinier the base coat the more the metallic shines.
So for instance I have Mr Surfacer 1500 black and then I go over that (once I have sanded and smoothed the surface and re primed) with ALCLAD Gloss black base and then my metallic color.
@@NotSoAverageBuilder Thanks. That's a great tip. Hadn't come across that on RUclips about working with metallic paints.
What metallics can you recommend over\better than tamiya? I heard valejo has really good metallics but i never seen the can form
Unfortunately you’re kinda limited with hobby rattle cans. However a really good brand (that makes larger cans) is “Army Painter” they have some decent metallics.
Hi I’m a rather new builder and planning to paint my MG Wing kit’s inner frame.
But I have some concerns regarding the joints especially around the knees and elbows.
I mean after I’m done and armor it all up etc then articulating it for poses wouldn’t it scratch those parts?
What do you do wih your kits regarding this? Any tips or maybe insight on what people usually do?
Thanks for the help
Hi Gerry, and welcome to the hobby officially lol it would all depend on what type of paint you use.
Acrylics will rub off, quite easily unfortunately....BUT there are two things you can do to combat this. The first being the easiest, using thin coats of paint and immediately covering with a solid gloss coat will aid in preventing that (it’s still not 100% foolproof though.) The second would be to “pre sand” those pesky joint areas (or any other areas that will eventually rub) and then even with semi thicker coats you shouldn’t have any issues.
Enamels will have the same type of issue as acrylics being that they can be rubbed off rather easy but the above still applies.
Now if you’re using lacquer based paints it takes a GREAT deal of rubbing and scratching to cause it rub off. They are the most forgiving when it comes to that but the ones you need to worry about breathing in the most.
I hope this helps you my friend and if you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to shoot them my way. If I don’t know them I know TONS of people who do! :)
I'm waiting for any company to release a good brushable gold.
Like dry brush or straight hand brush?
@@NotSoAverageBuilder Hand brush, but nvm now...lol. After trying a few things, the Vallejo polished gold looks better than I thought it would. I'm working on a Gyancelot right now, and those gold wrap around stickers look like garbage, haha.
Especially over a undercoat of something like copper.
Yeah the Vallejo true metals line is pretty darn good! I had completely forgotten about them till you mentioned it! Ha ha
@@NotSoAverageBuilder I wanna try the Vallejo Game Air metallics sometime, since I heard they hand brush really well too, but nah, I just meant the plain jane Vallejo Game gold.
Greetings NSAB, New to the channel. I have extensive work with Games Workshop models, hand brushing all of them with mostly their own Citadel paint line. So, acrylics are what Im comfortable with, but I'm trying to push myself. Watching this video gives me hope I can achieve a better metallic finish, not just on the frame but the armor panels as well.
What Im not sure Im getting is the process you used for getting silver on the frame to start with. Ive been using Army Painter's matt black gloss, and never had an issue with my other projects. So, assuming that works, I think you are saying the next step is a clear gloss. could something like GW's 'Ard Coat work? it is a hand brush high gloss substance.
The next step is adding the silver. This should go over the gloss, from what I can tell, does that have to be sprayed on, or is there a brush on metal for this stage?
The final question in regards to the wash, do you think GW's Nuln Oil would work? I realize I wouldnt have the ability to clean off the parts with thinner and a q-tip, but I could do a targeted wash and just aim for the recesses.
Hi Corrina, welcome to the channel! If you are using a gloss black primer then there is no next step (except for applying your silver.) That being said, acrylic metallics aren’t going to be as vibrant lacquer based ones. So there lies issue number one, lacquer based paints don’t do very well with hand brushing because they dry so quickly.
I would say that a lot of making your metallics pop (even acrylic ones) would be your detail.
What I mean by that is your recess details, even though you don’t have access to a thinner for the stuff I used but using Nuln oil you can still achieve similar results doing a type of dirty wash. What that means is not being as controlled in your application and you can take some Vallejo flow improver or thinner to thin the wash out in strategic areas.
BE CAREFUL THOUGH, because you are using acrylic paints and washes the thinner will reactivate your previous layers. So a way you can combat this is to use a rattle can clear coat (these are usually lacquer based) this will prevent the wash from causing an ill effect on your amazing paint job.
I hope this helps you and doesn’t confuse you lol
So if I use say a gloss black primer I won’t need a black base coat?
Exactly! Unfortunately I don’t have a gloss black primer so I had to improvise. Lol
Not So Average Builder I see gotcha. Yea bc I saw the Vallejo brand gloss black primer on amazon
Not So Average Builder I use the Tamiya water based paints. Do you think I can still use those or do I have to change it up to oil based? And which do you prefer? Thanks
I’m not sure what you mean. The oil based paints I used were for the wash stage. The main paint I used was lacquer based.
The Tamiya acrylic paints are basically lacquer paints that act strange ha ha they are closer to lacquer paints than anything else though.
And as far as still using the Tamiya paints absolutely. They are great airbrush paints but they don’t do as well for hand brushing because they dry out so quick. They can also dry brush pretty well
Aaaaahhh what a relief. I can use rattle cans. My airbrush is clogged :/ so... And I have no time cleaning it yet. :/
Get yourself some lacquer thinner and any and all paint will dissolve! If it’s acrylics then use some IPA and poof it’s gone (enough to spray at least lol) then when you have time you can fully clean
@@NotSoAverageBuilder thanks, bruh! 😁 I was using Vallejo Mecha paints so... IPA it is. 😅
No problem at all brother! I’ll be doing an airbrush screw up video soon. To help show everyone how simple it is to fix mistakes :) also I’m watching your RG Saz photo etch video as we speak! Ha ha
@@NotSoAverageBuilder Holy cow yes please! 😁 I'd love that. I'm about to explore gunpla customization for my video content and not just snap building and reviewing kits 😅
Dang bro, I totally appreciate the support. Thank you for watching my RG Sazabi video. :) 👊👊
I'm stoked to have some info I can apply. Sub & share.
Thanks, years of happy modeling will come of this.... 🚀
#MotivatedNotManipulated
Thank you my friend! I too subbed to your channel as well! I hope that I can continue to help you in your model building journey!