Spraying SPI Epoxy Primer on Project EgoBruise's Engine Bay - Episode 20
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Our 1979 Foxbody coupe EcoBoost project car finally gets a coat of Primer. This is the base coat before body filler and means we get to start BUILDING A CAR!
On this episode we complete the prep work, put on Ospho and lay down Southern Polyurethane Epoxy Primer with my Eastwood Concourse LT100 gun.
Gun:
www.eastwood.c...
Primer:
www.shopvrs.co...
DeVilbiss Cups:
www.eastwood.c...
DeKups Adapter:
www.eastwood.c... 
Кино
Great job. Nothing feels better then doing it yourself
To cover the floor I buy cheap king size flat sheets at Wal Mart for like $10 a pop and lay a few down. I like you can pick them up and toss them down quick. No messing with rolls of paper and tape if you don't want.
Looks good from N.C.!!!!! Awesome work ( Progress) on the coupe/ notch . I dig it ... and LOVE the 86, Thank you for all the effort and time you put in to these videos.
Thanks Jason!
Man guy showed me to put water on ur floor before spraying and it sweep right away when the water dries or you push the water out when ur done. Great job in my book!
My hats off to you! Trying to do this type of project in a garage is really tuff, I've been doing it all my life, like fighting with one hand behind your back! Anyway, great video, best of luck with your project!
Man, I really appreciate that. My biggest struggle has been finding time...then actual space to store and work on this stuff. Yes, a shop would make life easier, but still 100% doable in a 2 car garage.
SPI Epoxy is some good stuff. I've been using it for a while
Looks good! Happy to see this project moving along. Keep up the good work and of course, the vids!
Looks great!
nice project, keep going, I mean clean and epoxy inside and out as much as possible to the whole underside of the beast. little eco-boost in there should be fun.
Great video, thank you for sharing! I'm currently redoing my 1986 convertible which was my first car back in the 90's. Just finished the sn95 conversion with a good bit of reference from your videos. Body work is taking a while as I am deleting all the molding lines on the car, including the bumpers. Fun stuff!
Just a tip, if you don't get around to filler work on the engine within the next week, just lightly abrade the epoxy with some 120 grit to get filler to mechanically stick. Epoxy is awesome stuff but does have a window of chemical bond. Keep up the great work.
Appreciate the tip! Likely not getting to body filler until after everythings been fitted, well outside of the week. Your correct though, the SPI sheet recommends 24-48 hours before filler but before 7 days does not need to be sanded.
It's good to see people doing their own restorations; build, not buy.
I will be using the Grey SPI epoxy as well and spoke with Barry at SPI (owner and chief chemist) about bare metal prep. He stressed two things, Ospho MUST be rinsed to neutralize it and prevent delamination of the epoxy due to an acid film, and an 80 grit tooth is esential for mechanical adhesion. How is the epoxy holding up on your project? Any issues since you skipped both steps above? I'm not hating or criticizing, I'm genuinely intrested in you results since I treated my bare metsl with acid but did not rinse it.
Cheers
No, man I wish I had this info prior. I did wipe the entire area with SPI wax/grease remover, and let it completely dry. The epoxy now looks the same as it did when it was sprayed. Zero issues. I also read up on SPIs spec sheet and do not recall reading about this, I only followed Ospho's directions, which says it didn't need to be rinsed and just wiped down. SPI is some good stuff, I think you'll be okay, but when it comes to doing the body I'll take this recommendation from from the chemist who designed it for sure!
@@HOUSEOFDULA it's on the bottom of page three of the tech sheet. I'll copy and paste for you.
Neutralizing Skyco Ospho:
Ospho is the only rust treatment we recommend IF needed under epoxy primer.
Apply Ospho as needed and leave it on as long as you like.
When you are ready to neutralize the dry Ospho, apply one more coat of Ospho over the area to
be neutralized and let it set for 5 minutes.
Using a clean towel and water, wash off the wet Ospho like you are washing a car then dry with
a clean towel.
A dry acid film cannot be neutralized or sanded off.
@@Spockbacca , yep, Ospho MUST be washed off thoroughly or the epoxy will NOT properly adhere to the treated metal.
Dang Mike you are truly killing it,I need to do this also! You Ballin brother, I'm happy for you my man! Looking good as usual!👈💯🔥
Appreciate it brother! Slowly moving now
Injoyed video very educational thanks bro
You sir are welcome. Thank you!
Man i learn so many little details from you like removing the winshield trim brackets. Hope ya get bizzzy on that 79 and I can learn some more. I am restoring a 79 ghia and it is nice to see you do some of the things I will have to before me.
Appreciate that Joe
Just found your channel - sprayed my ‘93 Cobra in my garage in 2020 and yeah epoxy primer is nasty stuff. You really need to fully isolate everything you don’t want it to land on because it will do just that and it will be there forever! Great job tho!
I’m in the same process I hope I can get half as nice as yours
I think your videos are pretty rad and informative!! I like that you're down to earth and not some punkass snob!! I have a '69 Torino GT with the original 351W block and bottom end. I bought it last quarter of 2020. It has TFS heads and Torker 2 intake with a 750cfm 3310 Holley 4bbl. Points were converted to Pertronix and a full length longtubes to 3" all the way back. Red Holley electric fuel pump. I'm debating the fuel cell. I'm not a fan of the stock fuel fill location. I also have an original 1990 5.0 5speed notch bought here in Tampa. I bought it in 2000 and it was my daily driver until probably 2010? Both need some attention and I appreciate that you have tackled some of the upgrades I gave considered for each. I've also got a 2004 Ford F150 FX4. I bought it new in 2004. First and last brand new vehicle, I ever buy!!
THIS is what I like to hear! Lol. Appreciate it man, and nice choice in cars 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
You will fall in love with that Torino forever trust me. Neat neat cars and so different. Stands out from the sea of mid size Chebs and Mopars
Card board quality, lmao! You crazy my man. Jr is growing up also,He is going to be a FORD FAN FOR SURE,lol!
He better! Lol thanks man!
I purchased concrete & metal prep from home depot. It's like 15 dollars for one gallon.
Dee-Vel-bis is how it's pronounced 🤣sorry I'm from Toledo the home of it.
GOOD LORD. THANK YOU! Nobody here knows the right way to say it, I knew someone would correct me! lol Im no paint guy. I always wondered how it was pronounced. I did the same with McLeod. Appreciate it, although I think its more sinister to just say DEVIL-BISS ;)
I avoided SPI epoxy for a specific reason. It doesn't like phosphoric acid (ospho) unless it's been neutralized. Hopefully you don't have issues with paint peeling off.
Well Im almost 2 years in and no issue at all with the primer. Thats interesting, because I talked to a few professionals and called ospho and was recommended. The SPI looks as good as the first day I sprayed it and very hard / scratch resistant. Maybe Im lucky, I'll make sure to neutralize the ospho anyway, wont hurt for the added insurance.
4.5 CFM is not HVLP. HVLP are 12-15 CFM+. Eastwood "HVLP" marketing gimmick.
I wonder how the paint came out using ospho without rinsing it. SPI says DO NOT use any acid under their paint unless you neutralize it.
Over a year later and zero issue with it flaking or chipping, scraping etc. Held up fine. If SPI's spec sheet that though, I missed it, and I would go with that for sure in any future ospho usage. Maybe Im lucky, or maybe time will tell, but it seems fine to me.
Wondering if the paint fell off yet after not reactivating the ospho and wahsing /scrubing it with water while the ospho was wet to nutralize it.
No sir. holding up great. You have to put effort into scratching it up.
Sounds like an info-mercial for SPi
lol
SPI did NOT give me this or even give me a discount, this was paid for full price out of my pocket lol so I have no reason to sell it for them....simply heard it was a good product and wanted to try it.
Wetting the floor down helps with overspray and dust/dirt
Thanks man, I'll try that next time. My floor's a mess now.
How much epoxy primer did you use total for the engine bay? You think 1 qt would be enough using 1-1
Yeah. I think 1 qt would be plenty. 1 qt 1:1 obviously is 2qt of product. Lays quick and smooth, seems to go a long way.
@@HOUSEOFDULA you the man! Thank you
Body filler is actually supposed to go over bare metal. You can usually apply it over epoxy primer, but there is no problem going over bare metal with body filler.
Man I’ve never had issues with filler on metal but technically it can promote future rust because plastic filler is porous, can hold moisture so on bare steel cause rust and failure (potentially) to the filler…best way really is to epoxy, filler, primer, epoxy…
What kind of bit did you use for grinding the firewall adjuster hole larger?
Hey man, just a carbide bit for a die grinder. I think I used that and my drimmel with a sanding drum to get it more rounded out.
You don’t have to rinse the ospho off after before paint ? Or do you paint right on top of the the ospho after it turns black
No need to rinse. It dries and literally evaporates. I wiped with wax/grease remover prior to painting then just sprayed it... After ospho dried I had no residue at all.
Spi States do not spray on ospho without re wetting and rinsing very well.
De ville biss
I know...Your right, but still plays tricks on my mind. Especially when your not in the business of a painter. DEVIL BLISS ;)
Do you think this gun would spray while being held upside down? I need to spray underneath my car
I dont "thin"k so simply because of the way the liners keep a little air in them. Youd get dry spray. For that i'd look at a bottom side tank suction fed gun
@@HOUSEOFDULA thanks. I noticed you’re using the 1.3mm tip, but the SPI website recommends 1.4-1.5, does it make much difference do you think?
@@Asdf67865 No, I called and asked that, 1.3 worked out just fine
oh no you didnt paint over ospho right??? i hope you neutralized it 😰
You read the opsho data sheet? Even then I called them as well as SPI. The opsho was on months before epoxy too. " apply a thin coat of OSPHO as it comes pre-diluted in the container. Let dry overnight for a minimum of 24 hours, then apply whatever paint." The great thing about opsho is no need to neutralize with tons of water.
How many gallons was ur compressor?
Its a 33 gal.
@@HOUSEOFDULA I'm doing something similar. As far as body working the engine bay. I was actually wondering if I can relocate the wiper motor. How are u going to cover the hole on the firewall? Can't wait to see more videos.
@@rafatrill - I already welded up a plate to cover the hole.
@@HOUSEOFDULA dam no video? 😒