Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
A friend who is in his 90's has one of these with Cub Cadet on it and it is a cheap rider but it has enabled him to continue caring for his lawn which he loves to do. The yard is small but walking behind a push mower wasn't an option any longer. So, it has been a real blessing for him.
Yes, my neighbor who is 90 yrs. old has one of these he purchased at Lowe's a couple years ago. It's not the greatest, but it's been dependable so far and enables him to get out there and mow his 1/2 acre every week.
@@danieltaylor4819 Yeah if one is not doing a large scale mowing operation those mowers are fine and of course at age ninety if one has the financial means replacing the mower every few years is the wisest way to go. A friend of mine who had his mobile home on the family property would keep the grass cut (roughly and acre and a half). His father had a Snapper riding mower and when the mower started to give trouble his Dad simply ordered a new one to fix the old one. At his age he had the means to do so. And sometimes depending, it is wise to just buy a new one.
Purchased the same unit with the little trailer to haul my cut firewood, I’ve been lubricating the gear and bushing so this problem of the steering rake failing been avoided so far.
I bought a new one back in 2015 from a real Sears store and payed $899. Still have it, runs great and Yes, I've had to change out the rack steering with the kit from Amazon. Fast forward to 2023 and I've bought another the R110. Payed $1899 at Lowe's. The old one has been sent to my daughter's house for use. This time I greased the front rack steering with heavy duty grease. These mowers are great for smaller yards. Keep up with regular maintenance, oil change and lube, keep them clean and dry. The one in the video is nasty.... I'd been embarrassed to drop off the mower looking like that. Good video!
In 1979 I really wanted to take Shop class in high school. I cut grass as my teenage job and I sure did need to know how to repair my mower. 3 meetings with school officials resulted in my not actually being allowed to take Shop class. Your channel, and many other valuable contributors to RUclips, have nonetheless taught me to repair my mower, change the alternator in my car, fix my 25-year-old gas dryer, and many, many other valuable things. I am very proud of you, from afar, and all the talented girls that build and fix things. Thank you for the time and effort that you spend so that others may benefit from your years of experience and knowledge.
Great info! I just bought a used one...so this is perfect for me! Here's an idea on the square head risk: I recommend tying a fishing line with slip loop, on each of the the square head bolts, then thread the line through the steering shaft cover holes, then put the steering bushing/etc on, then hold the line to put the nut on the bolt and you should be good to go for the remainder of the instructions!
I just purchased this mower about a Month ago. I did add an hour meter so i can keep up with proper maintenance and will get this kit when i start having issues. From the looks of that mower the owners are their own worst enemy! I always clean my mower after cutting the lawn. Thanks for sharing!
Fascinating video. Although I'm a retired Mechanic who is no longer able to perform repairs, I love living vicariously through your videos and learning things I might otherwise never know. I never know when knowledge might come in handy. Thank you and Rock on!
Hi, I am a retired small engine technician. When I did the steering gear on this and was dealing with those carrage bolts that can disappear up the steering housing, I would take a rubber band and loop it around those bolts to hold them in place as I put the gear retainer back on. Once you got the nuts on tighten them up and forget the rubber band. It had done it's job and will break. Then when you do it again in a couple years you can sweep away if it is still there and put a new on for the next time.
I've had my Troy-Bilt TB30R since 2018 and though it still works fine I've had to replace 3 tires, 2 blades, the safety cutoff switch, and the drive belt, all of which I did myself. Still have much less in it what than I would have spent with a more expensive rider.
Man alive! I was at Lowe’s last week and the equivalent of the YT-4000 I bought at Sears about 10 years ago costs about 2.5 times what I paid then. Even with inflation, someone is cashing in selling these mowers. … and then the cost of parts!….
I have this mower. I paid $1500.00 for it. It was from Lowe's and I was able to do 0% financing for 18 months. That was back in 2021. I love this mower and I had heard after I bought it, there was a steering problem as it got older. I try to keep the mower clean after I use it. I blow off all of the grass clippings and make sure everything is dry because I store it outside with a cover over it. Thanks for the video!!! I'll get the parts in case I have a problem with the steering this season!!!
Thanks for tutorial video. Bought one of these TB-30R mowers for like $1099 right before inflation hit. Replaced steering rack kit today. Pretty easy. If you need to push the top of those bolt heads you don't need to remove the flange. The red flange is so flimsy you can pop the bottom tab out with a long flat head screwdriver and get your hand in there to push down on the bolt head. Then pop the tab back in to secure the red flange. Also don't forget to lube the slider plastic thing.
My Troy-Built is 8 yrs old.Have had the steering fix kit for 2 yrs & still haven’t installed it yet. I keep it clean,lube the gear& keep the tires inflated. Routine maintenance goes a LONG way !
My Troy Bilt is only 7 years old and I've never had a problem with it. Routine maintenance goes a long way. And I've never heard of the steering fix kit until I stumbled upon this video. I don't understand the videos "Chicken Little" obsession with the Troy Bilt. Several of my friends own the same Troy Bilt mower and they're with me...never had a problem with it.
Murphy’s Law. Have spare parts, don’t need them. Don’t have spare parts, need them! Cheap insurance. Next I’ll tell you how to wash your car to make it rain!
I have had it since 2013 (11yrs) and it has worked great, change the oil every year, lubricate the steering gear and change battery every few years. I am going to replace the steering rack because there is now a bit too much play. This is the first repair that I have had to do. Maintenance goes a long way!!
Hello, Just a suggestion- had to deal w/ carriage bolts before set like that - forced small O- rings all the way up to hold bolts in place - even if you squeeze them after tighten the nuts it's 👍
Brilliant idea, O rings are cheap and plentiful and that saves time. I have used a small wrap of electrical tape in the past to do the same thing, but the o rings are a way better idea.
Would a cutout plastic do the same thing? Get a milk carton, cut out a small square peace and put a hole through it. Than screw it through that hole. The plastic will hold it there just like your o-ring. Cheap and plentiful.
Hey there, Chickanic. I love your channel name and your videos. My nickname is Chickie and I was a mechanic years ago in the military, but I do not know much about lawnmowers or 2 stroke engines. I just finished this repair on my little mower and want to thank you for making it simple. By the way, I'm a 62 year old woman, and if I can do this, anyone out there can, too. Thanks again, and Rock on Chicanic!
To keep those bolts from taking off up into the never land, loosen the nut down far enough so you tie a simple piece dental floss onto the middle threads of the bolts. When the nut(s) are put back on and are threaded on some then cut the dental floss off. The nut then will prevent the bolt from taking off on you. Works every time and a huge time saver.
I was thinking a couple of keepers with a string on them would also keep the bolts in place, then use the string to pull the keepers off before tightening the nuts all the way.
Very good video. I've been repairing engines of all sizes since 1967. Most engines and machines of the last 30 years are designed to throw away. My GTs are from the 60s and 70s. My C-10 is an 85. It is much better to fix up old machines than pay the price for new. When dealing with those little carriage bolts, you can use a plastic clip from a bread bag to hold the bolt until you get a nut started onto it. Then use pliers to pull the clip off and then you can tighten up the nut. Wire tires from bread bags are also very handy. You have a good teaching style. Good Luck, Rick
I got my Troy Bilt from Lowes in 2018 for around $900, works great for my small yard. Never had an issue with the mulch cover / switch. Steering getting a little sloppy, thanks for the link to the gear kit.
i have an 18 too, but i installed the weight option on the front. im a maintenance freak...never have had a failure, if the steering fails the video is nice and the amazon price really good news
Hey, thanks a ton! I bought a R1000 in September, 2017 for $899 plus the bagger attachment and the mulcher plate from Sears. I collect the grass and fall leaves for garden compost. Two years later had to replace the rack. Brother helped me and I Amazoned the parts and pieces. We literally took the entire front end, metal and plastic bits apart fixing it. And it worked. Made a bit of a pop last year and only now started mowing so I'm not sure what the rack condition is. It won't last forever but the fix has lasted twice as long as OEM. I'm getting the kit now. For later. Thanks for the link. This year, for the first time I got down and looked at the fine print on those front tires. I think it's 24 pounds. Put it right on it. 14 in the rear. I like the R1000 for the bagger and we had a Monkey Ward one similar to it in the late 60s so it was like a teen memory. However, everyone has a zero turn around here. I know they laugh at my dinky mower and the 30" cut. But I'm man enough to take it! I paid cash, they make payments!
Thank you for this demonstration. Even though I don't own the specific lawnmower, I always learn what the 'Essential Craftsman' calls 'shop skills' on his RUclips site by watching how you go about your repairs.
I owned the craftsman version of this. I bought it in 2012 and gave it away in 2022. It worked great. It was my only mower. I bought it because it fit between my trees and flower beds well. I never had any issues with it. I changed the oil every year and changed the battery once. It was working when I gave it away. I just wanted a zero turn after moving to a house with a larger yard. I did have to replace both front tires due to the originals dry rotting.
I always recommend the small Rear engine riders from Snapper. They made them up until 2020 but you can always find a very nice running 25-30" cut unit for around 5-$600 here in the midwest. Most of the time they are maintained well and need nothing except for general maintenance for decades of service. They are absolutely Built like tanks and parts are readily available and affordable. I would for sure recommend buying a decent used model Snapper rear engine rider before buying one of these.
I had one of those mowers from 2012 until 2022. As a light duty mower, it was okay except for the off brand Chinese engine. It finally blew up despite all my efforts at taking good care of it. I had to perform this repair at least a couple times. Here is one suggestion on those two bracket shoulder bolts that want to run up and hide in the housing. Stretch a rubber band around and between them and snug it up against the housing. That will help to keep the bolts from escaping into the housing. Once you get the nuts started, reach in and snip the rubber band. Just a tip to thank you for all the great how-to instruction you provide.
It’s amazing how many people don’t clean their mowers nor check air pressure on the tires, I check my riding mower tires before each use. Many years ago I had a Murray rider that size, it was given to me to mow our acre of land. I wore it out, bought a Craftsman T1800 42” deck & 7000 series Kohler motor.
I bought that mower in 2019. Only rider that would fit on the side of the garage and let us get the cars in. I clean the mower after each use, keep it lubricated and change the oil. Haven’t had a problem so far but have saved this video when I need to repair the steering. Thank you so much.
Troy Bilt used be made near me in Troy NY. You bought direct from them and their stuff was battleship grade. Under new management, they contracted with Lowes to retail their stuff and then the built in obsolecence began in earnest. The company closed and the TB name was transferred to the generic mower/tiller/ etc company (MTD) that assembles a lot of mowers under various names using only the very best parts they can obtain worldwide !
I just bought a used one from my neighbor for 200 bucks it`s a 2015. He wasn`t a tinkerer as me. I fixed all the little issues and upgraded the steering bar and a couple belts. It has the 10.5 Briggs, This thing is like new again and runs perfect. Couldn`t be more happier. Perfect for my 1/4 acre residential lot. Walk behind days are over.
Just a thought for those hidden bolts. Once the cover plate is off, use a hot glue gun to soot a little hot melt up on the shoulder where is passes through the frame to hold it in place. it wont last for long, but long enough not to have to go fishing for the bolts.
A goood friend of mine purchased an early model of this mower after being diagnosed with a terminal illness.. It was affordable and he cooldn"t push mow his lawn anymore, I hated that mower after a year there was always something wrong with it, but am glad it gave him happiness at that time when he had it. Thank you for the video and ill definetly never reccomend these mowers to anyone.
did mine last year. you hit all the main points. I also saw the mower at a big box store yesterday for $1995.00. Oh my gosh. I paid $950.00 two years ago. Would never pay today's price.
I paid 900 for my new Craftsman 247.29000 RER1000 in 2013. Ive mowed a 1/3 acre lawn with in for 10 years. I have replaced Tires, Blade, Broken Ignition Key, steering gear . It has been a fantastic mower for me and still going strong.
Great video for people at home with mechanical knowledge pull the geared shaft and just straighten yourself and grease it but this woman knows what she's doing .
Those crazy bolts are a real pain. I put a snap ring on both of mine and no longer have the issue of them pushing up through the holes. No interference with tightening them back down during assembly either. Just a tip to save you time and aggravation..
Hi Bre. I have this mower since August 2019. The Craftsmen version. I cut my lawn once a week from March through November. I keep it meticulously maintained. Taking special attention to keep that steering mechanism well lubricated. I never liked the way it felt from day one. I have not had a problem with it yet. After every cut I hose down entire mower then blow it dry with leave blower. Thanks so much for making this video. For 15 bucks I will purchase that kit and keep it for if and when it does fail. I’m am so glad you told us about the possibility of those bolts pushing into the abyss. If you didn’t I’m sure it would have happened to me. Please keep vids coming on this model. Wish the very best for you and your family. Bob. Ps. I have never had a problem with that safety switch on the deck. But if you don’t keep it clean I can see how you can.
I bought the Murray for around $800.00 in 2014. It has a 190cc B&S with an electric starter. I've done routine maintenance, including grease, and this mower is awesome. I've replaced the tiny joke of a battery ( FYI, it's the same one used for old emergency exit lights). And a mower deck belt, several blades because I hit stuff, (FYI, mine has a 24" blade, not the 30") and a spark plug because I felt guilty. I'm ordering this kit since apparently this little mower won't die. Thanks for the video it will help an old man with dementia out a lot!
Thanks Bre, regrettably I have one of these (better than walk behind) and have had numerous issues but It still keeps going. Haven't had this specific problem but will buy the kit in anticipation. One thing I came across was the battery it came with (from Lowes) was way under spec and had to be replace after only two seasons.
I had this exact mower, Troybuilt paid $900 for it new about 10 years ago at Lowes. I mowed my 1/4 acre lawn for about 8 years with almost no issues (In Central FL with a very healthy St. Augustine lawn). My biggest complaint was the 12 volt battery would only last about 1-2 seasons, had to replace it several times. Your point about the low tire pressure is spot on. If you don't check the front tires they will go flat and you'll hardly notice. I also had the safety switch issue but wasn't hard to figure out. I think I drilled a hole through and put a thumb bolt on it to keep it tight between cleanings. Oh yes! Cleaning, That's the key. You can't let your mower stay dirty, covered with grass and dirt and expect it to perform well over time. I cleaned all the linkages, including steering twice yearly along with an oil change. After cleaning, you let it dry and lubricate all the connections with a good lithium grease. I moved and didn't need it anymore so I gave it to a friend, still running strong. I eventually moved to a new home and needed another mower so I found the same one on FB Marketplace, almost new for $700 and grabbed it right away. I've had it for 2 years and had the same result. I don't have any affiliation with the manufacture or dealers of this mower so I have no interest in promoting this mower. Take care of your gear, and it will take care of you.
Place a dab of RTV at the base of each bolt and allow time for it to cure. This will hold the bolts in place during the installation of your bracket and will not prevent the removal of the bolts in the future
Perfect timing just did one! I have done a ton of these steering kits a but the kit that I get looks nothing like that. Here is the part number for the kit that I use. 753-11064A. It comes with a completely updated bracket and bushings and so far I have not had to go back into one after doing the MTD updated kit.
Thank you for the video! Just did the steering sector replacement today. However, there were no carriage bolts - they were regular bolts with a hex head. This necessitated access to get a wrench on them. It actually was quite simple - remove the phillips screw on the steering column's top cowling and lift it upwards. Next, remove the four 10mm bolts at the top of the lower cowling. Raise the lower cowling upward, turn 90 degrees so it holds itself up, and there's plenty of access! Entire job took 25 min...
Thanks Bri! I have a regular who has this exact mower. He has a lawn the size of a postage stamp but I'll be sure to check this when it comes in for service in a few weeks!
I have this mower, Craftsman version, and had to do the steering gear. I did have to take off those plastic covers to get to the bolts. I tack welded them so I wouldn't have to worry about them anymore. I just picked up a like new Troy-bilt one yesterday. I like this mower personally, but you are absolutely correct about its little quarks you have to deal with. Thanks for the videos, I just found your channel so I will be tuning it!!
Mine is 6 years old. Sharpen blade, replace filters and oil, put away for season. All made by MTD. No problem yet. Takes an hour twice a week to do my lawn. Always give it a cleaning with water hose.
Great method for changing out the steering gear! Really enjoy the channel. Using a couple internal teeth keeper washers on those carriage bolts would prevent them getting bumped back through the bottom plate 👍
This is fun for me to watch my wife was a small engine mechanic years ago I was a landscaper like you very attractive and very good mechanic back then being a woman you had to be very good after she proved her self they only wanted her to fix their equipment ❤
I have this exact mower. The steering didn't make it through 2 mowing seasons. I wish I had seen this video before replacing my steering rack. This was the best video with the best explanation I've seen. I totally agree that Amazon is the place to get the repair kit. It's probably not a bad idea to keep a spare on hand.
A trick for holding the shoulder bolt in place is to cut a V notch into a flat piece of flexible plastic and wedge it around the bolt. When the nut is started, pull the plastic away.
I have the Craftsman version with the 420cc engine that I bought back in 2013. I haven’t had any issues with it. I runs like a champ and haven’t had any steering issues. Now I do take care of it. I clean it regularly and lubricate anything that needs it.
If MTD had just gone to the trouble of putting a couple of those little securing washers that are used in some applications to keep carriage bolts retained in the deck for deflector brackets, there wouldn't be a problem.
@@WayneWerner Its a factory - multiply those fractions of a cent by the number of units and assembly line time , it adds up to a savings that would pay some production engineer's annual bonus. They don't care who has to fix it later as long as it is quick and cheap to put together.
It's built to try and compete with the rear engine rider market in Europe and the UK. Technically this machine isn't that bad when you see the ones coming from one of the major European mower manufacturers.
Yes thank you for this video . I’m also a chick mechanic . Not a pro but def know my stuff . We’ll got my rider about 2 months ago and low and behold my dang idler guide rod fell off because of a vibration issue . But went to lowes for some more screws and nuts and had it going again in 30 mins . I’m just thankful this mower is fairly easy to work on .
Thanks for this video…I bought this mower this year…with my vet discount knocked price down under $1800. Being proactive…I took your advice and ordered the gear kit off Amazon for $16….for future use if needed. I have a half acre yard and…so far…no issues.
yep, time to go back to using a scythe or a manual reel mower. unfortunately, even the manual reel mowers have doubled in price during the past 3 years.
I enjoy watching your posts. Have learned what to do, and what not to do sometimes. I am a retired carpenter. I never have used Fix a flat, but my riding mower has the green stuff in all four tires. I did this to the last mower and had good service out of them. Keep up with your posts, you have taught me a lot about chainsaws. I hope that using the green stuff doesn't cause me trouble later. Wear the bikini more often!
Stretch a small rubber band between the two carriage bolts. That will keep them from getting pushed in. Then just break it once you have the bracket over the bolts and the nuts on loosely. Or even just tighten down on it. It won't hurt anything.
A friend brought me his TB30 for service and repair. 2 years old and never changed the oil and filters. On his, he would loose steering completely. Usually in a hard left turn. Here's where I ran into a slight problem. Ordering the parts all of them would be marked TB30R and there would be a note "does not fit TB30". I took a chance and ordered it anyway. There is absolutely no difference between the TB30 and TB30R that I could find. His had the factory installed parts, so no plastic wear spacer. I ended up taking the "Tupperware" off, easy job, so I could check the bolt holding the upper shaft and lower shaft. It was loose, another common problem. On the steering rack is a center index line to help lining up the rack. I did put grease on all the "rub" points. Excellent video.
I sat on a Troy Built TB30 last week at a Lowe’s in Brantford Ontario Canada, 5.500 dollars, I’m 6’2, it was the most uncomfortable thing I have ever attempted. 😂
A lot of people are being critical of this machine, but it serves a purpose. Replacing the steering parts is pretty straightforward & aftermarket parts are affordable/available. I've seen $10,000 John Deere mowers have parts that fail & need repair. It comes with owning stuff! The only shocking part of all this is the price increase on most everything. Riders like this were under $1,000 for a very long time. Entry level push mowers were $99-125 for decades. Items like these have easily doubled that price, & this price increase happened quite rapidly. It's not like you are getting more for your money either!
9:41 you'd think the manufacturer could put some thin spring steel retainer clips on those carriage bolts to keep them from falling out, similar to the drum retainer clips gm used on their cars with drum brakes to hold the drum on.
I have one of these mowers I’ve had for years paid $900 at Sears and you nailed it the deck switch has given me trouble but from day one I greased the steering parts and have not had trouble yet but I’ll probably go ahead and get a kit for the day of failure other than that it’s been a pretty good mower for the price
Thank you very much for this how=to= do--it-yourself and save video! I was able to change out my worn steering linkage on my Troy-Bilt/MTD 30" rider and you made it easy to understand and do, Chickanic! I appreciate that you would share your experience rather than capitalize on owners!
I looked online at the cheapo Murray at Walmart (used to be 99 bucks) and could not find anything less than 250. Two years ago, I got a self propelled store return at Lowes (139 the best I can remember) but it needed some service work because the magneto was rubbing the flywheel and the governor spring was not set to a decent speed. It works great now except no side discharge.
Had this problem with this same mower shortly after I bought it. Though I know it not the right type of mower for it, I bought it for my lawn service after I recovering from broke foot due to a car accident and need something small and light enough to be pulled by my new Honda Accord while my main work truck was awaiting transmission repair. It was cheap I saw it as expendable. The pinion gear would jump teeth on the rack gear if I hit a slight resistance in a turn or trying to re-center the wheel. A temp fix I made was to install springs on the pitman arms to keep the rack and pinion gears meshed tight. This had a bonus effect of fixing two other problem with this type of steering setup. The steering wheel would snatch right out of my hand if I hit a bump or dip in the terrain and if I make a tight turn in full lock, I had to either muscle it out which would cause it to jump teeth or reverse. Quite dangerous and almost caused me to flip my mower once if you don't expect it. The springs allowed the wheel to pull out of a tight turn and re-center much easier as well as keep the steering stable if I hit rough terrain. Might keep the springs for that purpose because it does make the mower safer to operate.
Got a suggestion for the Rack & Pinion issue. Look how wide the pinion gear is. Buy two repair kits & bolt a second rack to the first. This will double the contact surface thus reducing the wear. Also an solution for the carriage bolts falling through. Take a hacksaw blade and engage the cutting edge into the first couple of threads that come through the body. Tape the blade to the body thus holding them in place. Once the nuts are possibly started remove the blade.
Enjoy watching your repairs. my father told people that I could take a lawnmower motor apart when I was 7yr old I,m 76 now and still have the old mower with a clinton motor on it. It is missing the carb but still their. A freind brought me a craftsman r11o rider with you guessed it bad steering. I took it off and saw the problem .Then that evening I saw this segment on this model mower. Watching it really helped.You mentioned the two bolts that can get pushed up and out of thei holes and having to take the steering covers off to replace them. In the past on other projects I have used a rubber band that will keep a little pressure on them . I remove the rubber band when I get the nuts started. Just and idea that may help you or others
Get a plastic lid, coffee can, yogurt,etc. Cut a washer sized disk and fill a hole smaller then the shoulder bolt then x cut some slits across the hole. This will let you push them on the shoulder bolts and hold them to the deck while you put the mounting bracket on. This way you won't bite your tounge while doing it free hand. I do not possess the physical grace to be able too do it without cheating and I'll be damned if I'm gonna lose any more taste bus.
If you do enough of these to justify making a special tool, you could get some very small needle-nosed vice grip pliers and grind the points very thin. Then when you remove that cover from the steering gear, you could clamp the vice grips on the threads of the little square-shanked bolts, right up against the body (where it won't matter if the threads get damaged a bit), and that would hold them in place later when you replace the gear cover. That might save you having to pull off the cover someday to fish out the bolts.
I'm 75 yrs old and have a 1/4-acre lot I also have COPD. bad heart (bypassed) leg problems/diabetic found a Cub (1018) w/300 hrs. w/blown head gasket replaced head gasket and ended up with a pretty good mower (replaced belts tune up, larger oil filter, blades etc.) Thought I had a good little mower after doing all that work to it THEN I viewed your video and discovered I had a POS Briggs single cylinder with bad cam shaft Now before I mow my little yard I say a prayer to the mower god. I need this mower can't do the walk behind anymore.
Or just pot metal where some proper steel grade should do. Or thickening up that bar so it doesn't wear so fast - looks like that gear is 2x as thick as the rack.
the real problem is companies realize they can put out disposable garbage and still manage to sell it. We can tell them it’s not OK with our wallets, or buy preowned and keep a piece of equipment going vs buying brand new trash.
Changed out mine this Spring with the updated version. For the shoulder bolts on the bracket I used a drop of hot glue where the bolts meet the frame. Bolts stayed in place. I removed the front wheels to make it easier to get at and remove/replace the cotter pins for the short rods. Steering is much better.
Hi Bre, nice work! As I was watching you wrestle with that bracket and those bolts that might have disappeared into the upper body section from a little slip, I was contemplating a method to do that with a little less worry: wrap a small piece of single strand steel or copper wire once around each bolt with a 3 or 4 inch tail hanging out to grab on to, until you get the nuts started, and then just pull the wire out when you're ready to tighten up. I've got this mower and am glad you brought this up because I would have invented new ways to use the f bomb if those bolts vanished. Thanks again for a great video!!
I am with you on mowers that need a good cleaning . I cringe at dirty mowers.. Before my father in law passed, he purchased an MTD riding mower in 1996 (home depot special) .. this mower was his pride and joy when operating at his cottage .. We would arrive at the cottage and just after unloading luggage he would be seen going back and forth on that mower with a huge grin on his face. The mower is now 27 years old this year and still runs perfectly. Two things that were never allowed in the many years of my care .. 1) The mower was always washed after use and 2) The mower was always stored inside a clean garage. I figured this is a small token of respect to the legacy of a man whom I truly cared for during my limited time in his life.
I bought mine when they were less than a thousand bucks. I keep it clean and change the oil regularly. I had to modify the steering because of the poor design. The connecting rod is real flimsy and bends easily too. The parking lock has started not seating so another problem to fix the next oil change. I’ve been relatively happy with the mower, it gets in tight places with that 30” deck.
I’d had mine not very long when I just shorted that safety interlock so it wouldn’t quit anymore. Works like a champ! Thanks for this video, I got mine when it was $899 (unintentional rhyme).
Thanks for the video, it was very informative. I put a little hot melt glue on the shoulder bolts to keep them from pushing through the holes when I put the assembly together.
I bought this TroyBilt Rider in 2012 and it is still running like a top for me. I do my own maintenance on it and will reference you video if I ever need to make these repairs.
I have the older model that has a plastic gear. I paid about $1,000 for my mower. I need to replace my steering gear. Just in time post. I have been Bebe watching your videos. Thank you so much!
alittle something to think about , when im in a situation like you were with those shoulder bolts i always wrap them with thin piece of wire then tie the end of the off to something and once i get the nuts started just clip and remove the wire, then finish tighten nuts, always works for me
Front tires frequently go flat. I've remedied this by installing airless tires on the front. Yes, I'm sacrificing a small amount of riding comfort, but it's well worth it to have confidence they won't be flat when its time to mow.
I knew you were going there with this repair. I have repaired one without using new parts. I tightened everything up by using a hammer to take out the slop in the bracket holding gear rack in place and plastic guide Like you said it will need to be replaced again. These units are cheaply made, but purchasing is high. I do these repairs on the side and rob peter to pay paul. Thanks for the videos.
Within the first two minutes of the video you solved the issue i was having (deck safety switch) $15 part saved me lots of time, money, and frustration :)
I have used the Craftsman version of this rider for TEN seasons in Ohio. The steering has always been a little sloppy since day one, but has never worsened. I clean that rack (like it says in your manual) and use teflon dry lube spray every year. But, after all the steering repair videos here on YT, I decided that my steering rack surely MUST be worn by now, and just decided to get the improved rack as it’s an inexpensive upgrade. - Here’s how it turned out; 1- the mower’s steering is a little bit tighter. NOT enough to really make a lot of difference, but it will be nice anyway. 2- I was shocked - my old rack wasn’t worn AT ALL. Despite 10 seasons of mowing and the model’s reputation for cheapo steering parts, the rack and pinion were as good as new! Why? -after season one, I cleaned and regreased the steering as per the manual. What a mess! -The next year, I cleaned again, then switched to teflon dry lube from then on. Guess what? Dry lube doesn’t collect grit from the lawn to wear down parts. Also- About every 3rd or 4th mowing, when I use the wash out port on the deck (religiously), I also use the hose to rinse off the steering rack. Just turn the wheel to each extreme, then spray. I also check the air pressure in the tires a couple of times a season. It’s also good to know that flat tires wear the steering rack. Let’s be fair. Many YT commenters blame MTD for a lousy design and cheap parts. Guess what? Owners who don’t follow the manual and maintain their equipment deserve a lot of the blame for the steering problems on this model. It might not be the Rolls Royce of mowers, but mine has been maintained and stayed solid for a decade.
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
A friend who is in his 90's has one of these with Cub Cadet on it and it is a cheap rider but it has enabled him to continue caring for his lawn which he loves to do. The yard is small but walking behind a push mower wasn't an option any longer. So, it has been a real blessing for him.
Yes, my neighbor who is 90 yrs. old has one of these he purchased at Lowe's a couple years ago. It's not the greatest, but it's been dependable so far and enables him to get out there and mow his 1/2 acre every week.
@@danieltaylor4819 Yeah if one is not doing a large scale mowing operation those mowers are fine and of course at age ninety if one has the financial means replacing the mower every few years is the wisest way to go. A friend of mine who had his mobile home on the family property would keep the grass cut (roughly and acre and a half). His father had a Snapper riding mower and when the mower started to give trouble his Dad simply ordered a new one to fix the old one. At his age he had the means to do so. And sometimes depending, it is wise to just buy a new one.
I bought the Cub Cadet version two years ago, but it was based on the space available I have to store it. 🤷♂️
Purchased the same unit with the little trailer to haul my cut firewood, I’ve been lubricating the gear and bushing so this problem of the steering rake failing been avoided so far.
That's great! Gotta keep the mind and body busy. I always go above and beyond for my oldest customers who still love to garden and mow.
I bought a new one back in 2015 from a real Sears store and payed $899. Still have it, runs great and Yes, I've had to change out the rack steering with the kit from Amazon. Fast forward to 2023 and I've bought another the R110. Payed $1899 at Lowe's. The old one has been sent to my daughter's house for use. This time I greased the front rack steering with heavy duty grease. These mowers are great for smaller yards. Keep up with regular maintenance, oil change and lube, keep them clean and dry. The one in the video is nasty.... I'd been embarrassed to drop off the mower looking like that. Good video!
In 1979 I really wanted to take Shop class in high school. I cut grass as my teenage job and I sure did need to know how to repair my mower. 3 meetings with school officials resulted in my not actually being allowed to take Shop class. Your channel, and many other valuable contributors to RUclips, have nonetheless taught me to repair my mower, change the alternator in my car, fix my 25-year-old gas dryer, and many, many other valuable things. I am very proud of you, from afar, and all the talented girls that build and fix things. Thank you for the time and effort that you spend so that others may benefit from your years of experience and knowledge.
Great info! I just bought a used one...so this is perfect for me!
Here's an idea on the square head risk:
I recommend tying a fishing line with slip loop, on each of the the square head bolts,
then thread the line through the steering shaft cover holes,
then put the steering bushing/etc on,
then hold the line to put the nut on the bolt and
you should be good to go for the remainder of the instructions!
I just purchased this mower about a Month ago. I did add an hour meter so i can keep up with proper maintenance and will get this kit when i start having issues. From the looks of that mower the owners are their own worst enemy! I always clean my mower after cutting the lawn. Thanks for sharing!
Fascinating video. Although I'm a retired Mechanic who is no longer able to perform repairs, I love living vicariously through your videos and learning things I might otherwise never know. I never know when knowledge might come in handy. Thank you and Rock on!
Hi, I am a retired small engine technician. When I did the steering gear on this and was dealing with those carrage bolts that can disappear up the steering housing, I would take a rubber band and loop it around those bolts to hold them in place as I put the gear retainer back on. Once you got the nuts on tighten them up and forget the rubber band. It had done it's job and will break. Then when you do it again in a couple years you can sweep away if it is still there and put a new on for the next time.
Had my Troybilt 30” rider for thirteen years and still running great. As others have said regular maintenance goes a long way.
I've had my Troy-Bilt TB30R since 2018 and though it still works fine I've had to replace 3 tires, 2 blades, the safety cutoff switch, and the drive belt, all of which I did myself. Still have much less in it what than I would have spent with a more expensive rider.
I just used the Craftsman mower that was given to me for the first time. The steering is completely gone, lol. I'm glad this video is out there.
Great job. Now if you could only fix the price gauging on this stuff.
Man alive! I was at Lowe’s last week and the equivalent of the YT-4000 I bought at Sears about 10 years ago costs about 2.5 times what I paid then. Even with inflation, someone is cashing in selling these mowers. … and then the cost of parts!….
I have had this machine for 8 years - never had a problem. Perfect for mowing a smaller lawn.
I don't even have a mower like this and still found it fun to watch. Its always fun to watch someone else do the work!
I have this mower. I paid $1500.00 for it. It was from Lowe's and I was able to do 0% financing for 18 months. That was back in 2021. I love this mower and I had heard after I bought it, there was a steering problem as it got older. I try to keep the mower clean after I use it. I blow off all of the grass clippings and make sure everything is dry because I store it outside with a cover over it. Thanks for the video!!! I'll get the parts in case I have a problem with the steering this season!!!
Thanks for tutorial video. Bought one of these TB-30R mowers for like $1099 right before inflation hit. Replaced steering rack kit today. Pretty easy. If you need to push the top of those bolt heads you don't need to remove the flange. The red flange is so flimsy you can pop the bottom tab out with a long flat head screwdriver and get your hand in there to push down on the bolt head. Then pop the tab back in to secure the red flange. Also don't forget to lube the slider plastic thing.
My Troy-Built is 8 yrs old.Have had the steering fix kit for 2 yrs & still haven’t installed it yet. I keep it clean,lube the gear& keep the tires inflated. Routine maintenance goes a LONG way !
Dirt and grease turn into a grinding paste!
@@WayneWerner I use spray grease and just hit it with some more on occasion
My Troy Bilt is only 7 years old and I've never had a problem with it. Routine maintenance goes a long way. And I've never heard of the steering fix kit until I stumbled upon this video. I don't understand the videos "Chicken Little" obsession with the Troy Bilt. Several of my friends own the same Troy Bilt mower and they're with me...never had a problem with it.
Murphy’s Law. Have spare parts, don’t need them. Don’t have spare parts, need them! Cheap insurance. Next I’ll tell you how to wash your car to make it rain!
I have had it since 2013 (11yrs) and it has worked great, change the oil every year, lubricate the steering gear and change battery every few years. I am going to replace the steering rack because there is now a bit too much play. This is the first repair that I have had to do. Maintenance goes a long way!!
You are so right not many people with guts like you to tell the truth about junk on the market keep up the great reviews
Hello, Just a suggestion- had to deal w/ carriage bolts before set like that - forced small O- rings all the way up to hold bolts in place - even if you squeeze them after tighten the nuts it's 👍
Great tip Patrick!!
Brilliant idea, O rings are cheap and plentiful and that saves time. I have used a small wrap of electrical tape in the past to do the same thing, but the o rings are a way better idea.
just tie them with elastic bands
Would a cutout plastic do the same thing? Get a milk carton, cut out a small square peace and put a hole through it. Than screw it through that hole. The plastic will hold it there just like your o-ring. Cheap and plentiful.
@@johnmicheal3547 I think it would work just as well, and milk jugs are free! I may try that too
Hey there, Chickanic. I love your channel name and your videos. My nickname is Chickie and I was a mechanic years ago in the military, but I do not know much about lawnmowers or 2 stroke engines. I just finished this repair on my little mower and want to thank you for making it simple. By the way, I'm a 62 year old woman, and if I can do this, anyone out there can, too. Thanks again, and Rock on Chicanic!
To keep those bolts from taking off up into the never land, loosen the nut down far enough so you tie a simple piece dental floss onto the middle threads of the bolts. When the nut(s) are put back on and are threaded on some then cut the dental floss off. The nut then will prevent the bolt from taking off on you. Works every time and a huge time saver.
I was thinking a couple of keepers with a string on them would also keep the bolts in place, then use the string to pull the keepers off before tightening the nuts all the way.
Where would you finders keepers?
I was thinking of a bread twist tie lol
Even easier just slip an o ring over the threads and it will hold it in place
@@r8edrv4fun65 every mechanic has a few spares in the toolbox.
Very good video. I've been repairing engines of all sizes since 1967. Most engines and machines of the last 30 years are designed to throw away. My GTs are from the 60s and 70s. My C-10 is an 85. It is much better to fix up old machines than pay the price for new. When dealing with those little carriage bolts, you can use a plastic clip from a bread bag to hold the bolt until you get a nut started onto it. Then use pliers to pull the clip off and then you can tighten up the nut. Wire tires from bread bags are also very handy. You have a good teaching style. Good Luck, Rick
I got my Troy Bilt from Lowes in 2018 for around $900, works great for my small yard. Never had an issue with the mulch cover / switch. Steering getting a little sloppy, thanks for the link to the gear kit.
i have an 18 too, but i installed the weight option on the front. im a maintenance freak...never have had a failure, if the steering fails the video is nice and the amazon price really good news
Hey, thanks a ton! I bought a R1000 in September, 2017 for $899 plus the bagger attachment and the mulcher plate from Sears. I collect the grass and fall leaves for garden compost. Two years later had to replace the rack. Brother helped me and I Amazoned the parts and pieces. We literally took the entire front end, metal and plastic bits apart fixing it. And it worked. Made a bit of a pop last year and only now started mowing so I'm not sure what the rack condition is. It won't last forever but the fix has lasted twice as long as OEM. I'm getting the kit now. For later. Thanks for the link. This year, for the first time I got down and looked at the fine print on those front tires. I think it's 24 pounds. Put it right on it. 14 in the rear. I like the R1000 for the bagger and we had a Monkey Ward one similar to it in the late 60s so it was like a teen memory. However, everyone has a zero turn around here. I know they laugh at my dinky mower and the 30" cut. But I'm man enough to take it! I paid cash, they make payments!
Thank you for this demonstration. Even though I don't own the specific lawnmower, I always learn what the 'Essential Craftsman' calls 'shop skills' on his RUclips site by watching how you go about your repairs.
I owned the craftsman version of this. I bought it in 2012 and gave it away in 2022. It worked great. It was my only mower. I bought it because it fit between my trees and flower beds well. I never had any issues with it. I changed the oil every year and changed the battery once. It was working when I gave it away. I just wanted a zero turn after moving to a house with a larger yard. I did have to replace both front tires due to the originals dry rotting.
I always recommend the small Rear engine riders from Snapper. They made them up until 2020 but you can always find a very nice running 25-30" cut unit for around 5-$600 here in the midwest. Most of the time they are maintained well and need nothing except for general maintenance for decades of service. They are absolutely Built like tanks and parts are readily available and affordable. I would for sure recommend buying a decent used model Snapper rear engine rider before buying one of these.
I had one of those mowers from 2012 until 2022. As a light duty mower, it was okay except for the off brand Chinese engine. It finally blew up despite all my efforts at taking good care of it. I had to perform this repair at least a couple times. Here is one suggestion on those two bracket shoulder bolts that want to run up and hide in the housing. Stretch a rubber band around and between them and snug it up against the housing. That will help to keep the bolts from escaping into the housing. Once you get the nuts started, reach in and snip the rubber band. Just a tip to thank you for all the great how-to instruction you provide.
It’s amazing how many people don’t clean their mowers nor check air pressure on the tires, I check my riding mower tires before each use. Many years ago I had a Murray rider that size, it was given to me to mow our acre of land. I wore it out, bought a Craftsman T1800 42” deck & 7000 series Kohler motor.
Those old Murray rear motor riders were tough as airboats. I miss mine. I used to cut mtn bike trails with it.
I bought that mower in 2019. Only rider that would fit on the side of the garage and let us get the cars in. I clean the mower after each use, keep it lubricated and change the oil. Haven’t had a problem so far but have saved this video when I need to repair the steering. Thank you so much.
Troy Bilt used be made near me in Troy NY. You bought direct from them and their stuff was battleship grade. Under new management, they contracted with Lowes to retail their stuff and then the built in obsolecence began in earnest. The company closed and the TB name was transferred to the generic mower/tiller/ etc company (MTD) that assembles a lot of mowers under various names using only the very best parts they can obtain worldwide !
I just bought a used one from my neighbor for 200 bucks it`s a 2015. He wasn`t a tinkerer as me. I fixed all the little issues and upgraded the steering bar and a couple belts. It has the 10.5 Briggs, This thing is like new again and runs perfect. Couldn`t be more happier. Perfect for my 1/4 acre residential lot. Walk behind days are over.
Just a thought for those hidden bolts. Once the cover plate is off, use a hot glue gun to soot a little hot melt up on the shoulder where is passes through the frame to hold it in place. it wont last for long, but long enough not to have to go fishing for the bolts.
Looks like those bolts are in slots to adjust spacing between rack and pinion gears.
A goood friend of mine purchased an early model of this mower after being diagnosed with a terminal illness.. It was affordable and he cooldn"t push mow his lawn anymore, I hated that mower after a year there was always something wrong with it, but am glad it gave him happiness at that time when he had it. Thank you for the video and ill definetly never reccomend these mowers to anyone.
In a situation like that I wrap a thin electrical wire around the bolts before installing a bracket to keep them in place, better be safe than sorry 😊
did mine last year. you hit all the main points. I also saw the mower at a big box store yesterday for $1995.00. Oh my gosh. I paid $950.00 two years ago. Would never pay today's price.
Yeah with those prices might as well buy the cheapest zero turn mower.
@@leegraves8878 Too bad the $2000 Zero turns are now $4000....
Lets go Brandon!!
The dollar has degraded by at least half since then
look for an overstock store in your area and you can get these for 1100-1200
@@jchavins they go for 3000 at Blowes
I paid 900 for my new Craftsman 247.29000 RER1000 in 2013. Ive mowed a 1/3 acre lawn with in for 10 years. I have replaced Tires, Blade, Broken Ignition Key, steering gear . It has been a fantastic mower for me and still going strong.
a neat trick to stop the gear from falling of during istall put a thick grease on the splines of steering shaft
We called that mechanics glue :-) Very useful trick and can't think of a single case where the grease will hurt the metal or plastic parts.
Great video for people at home with mechanical knowledge pull the geared shaft and just straighten yourself and grease it but this woman knows what she's doing .
Those crazy bolts are a real pain. I put a snap ring on both of mine and no longer have the issue of them pushing up through the holes. No interference with tightening them back down during assembly either. Just a tip to save you time and aggravation..
Good ideal, I’ve been tack welding them to deck
Hi Bre. I have this mower since August 2019. The Craftsmen version. I cut my lawn once a week from March through November. I keep it meticulously maintained. Taking special attention to keep that steering mechanism well lubricated. I never liked the way it felt from day one. I have not had a problem with it yet. After every cut I hose down entire mower then blow it dry with leave blower. Thanks so much for making this video. For 15 bucks I will purchase that kit and keep it for if and when it does fail. I’m am so glad you told us about the possibility of those bolts pushing into the abyss. If you didn’t I’m sure it would have happened to me. Please keep vids coming on this model. Wish the very best for you and your family. Bob. Ps. I have never had a problem with that safety switch on the deck. But if you don’t keep it clean I can see how you can.
Can’t believe people bring equipment to you without even taking time to clean it ! Just shows how much care and service they give their stuff.🇺🇸🙏🏽✌🏻😎
I bought the Murray for around $800.00 in 2014. It has a 190cc B&S with an electric starter. I've done routine maintenance, including grease, and this mower is awesome. I've replaced the tiny joke of a battery ( FYI, it's the same one used for old emergency exit lights). And a mower deck belt, several blades because I hit stuff, (FYI, mine has a 24" blade, not the 30") and a spark plug because I felt guilty. I'm ordering this kit since apparently this little mower won't die. Thanks for the video it will help an old man with dementia out a lot!
Sometimes you can get those batteries cheap bc hospitals are forced to get rid of them based on mfgr dates, but many are unused.
Thanks Bre, regrettably I have one of these (better than walk behind) and have had numerous issues but It still keeps going. Haven't had this specific problem but will buy the kit in anticipation. One thing I came across was the battery it came with (from Lowes) was way under spec and had to be replace after only two seasons.
Same thing happened to me...bought a new battery from Menards
You're not alone on that one
I had this exact mower, Troybuilt paid $900 for it new about 10 years ago at Lowes. I mowed my 1/4 acre lawn for about 8 years with almost no issues (In Central FL with a very healthy St. Augustine lawn). My biggest complaint was the 12 volt battery would only last about 1-2 seasons, had to replace it several times. Your point about the low tire pressure is spot on. If you don't check the front tires they will go flat and you'll hardly notice. I also had the safety switch issue but wasn't hard to figure out. I think I drilled a hole through and put a thumb bolt on it to keep it tight between cleanings.
Oh yes! Cleaning, That's the key. You can't let your mower stay dirty, covered with grass and dirt and expect it to perform well over time. I cleaned all the linkages, including steering twice yearly along with an oil change. After cleaning, you let it dry and lubricate all the connections with a good lithium grease. I moved and didn't need it anymore so I gave it to a friend, still running strong. I eventually moved to a new home and needed another mower so I found the same one on FB Marketplace, almost new for $700 and grabbed it right away. I've had it for 2 years and had the same result. I don't have any affiliation with the manufacture or dealers of this mower so I have no interest in promoting this mower. Take care of your gear, and it will take care of you.
Place a dab of RTV at the base of each bolt and allow time for it to cure. This will hold the bolts in place during the installation of your bracket and will not prevent the removal of the bolts in the future
Perfect timing just did one! I have done a ton of these steering kits a but the kit that I get looks nothing like that. Here is the part number for the kit that I use. 753-11064A. It comes with a completely updated bracket and bushings and so far I have not had to go back into one after doing the MTD updated kit.
Nice job. I LOVE having to line up 3 things at once with loose parts as a failed attempt as the consequence!
Love how accurate &precise your instructions are
Not as bad as Briggs putting a plastic lifter on the cam shaft.
I agree ☝️
Thank you for the video! Just did the steering sector replacement today. However, there were no carriage bolts - they were regular bolts with a hex head. This necessitated access to get a wrench on them. It actually was quite simple - remove the phillips screw on the steering column's top cowling and lift it upwards. Next, remove the four 10mm bolts at the top of the lower cowling. Raise the lower cowling upward, turn 90 degrees so it holds itself up, and there's plenty of access! Entire job took 25 min...
Thanks Bri! I have a regular who has this exact mower. He has a lawn the size of a postage stamp but I'll be sure to check this when it comes in for service in a few weeks!
I have this mower, Craftsman version, and had to do the steering gear. I did have to take off those plastic covers to get to the bolts. I tack welded them so I wouldn't have to worry about them anymore. I just picked up a like new Troy-bilt one yesterday. I like this mower personally, but you are absolutely correct about its little quarks you have to deal with. Thanks for the videos, I just found your channel so I will be tuning it!!
Bre, it might be in "Park". But, I'd like to see you chock the rear tires when on the jack stands.
Safety First!
Mine is 6 years old. Sharpen blade, replace filters and oil, put away for season. All made by MTD. No problem yet. Takes an hour twice a week to do my lawn. Always give it a cleaning with water hose.
Great method for changing out the steering gear! Really enjoy the channel. Using a couple internal teeth keeper washers on those carriage bolts would prevent them getting bumped back through the bottom plate 👍
This is fun for me to watch my wife was a small engine mechanic years ago I was a landscaper like you very attractive and very good mechanic back then being a woman you had to be very good after she proved her self they only wanted her to fix their equipment ❤
Just an idea put a small o ring around those bolts all the way up until flush with housing it helps hold them in place better hope this helps
I have this exact mower. The steering didn't make it through 2 mowing seasons.
I wish I had seen this video before replacing my steering rack. This was the best video with the best explanation I've seen. I totally agree that Amazon is the place to get the repair kit. It's probably not a bad idea to keep a spare on hand.
A trick for holding the shoulder bolt in place is to cut a V notch into a flat piece of flexible plastic and wedge it around the bolt. When the nut is started, pull the plastic away.
In a pinch, a thin piece of cardboard like a shoebox lid would probably also work for a quick one-time use.
I have used blue painters tape for similar applications. Tape the bolt, get nut started, pull tape out. Doesn’t require a third hand to hold.
I have the Craftsman version with the 420cc engine that I bought back in 2013. I haven’t had any issues with it. I runs like a champ and haven’t had any steering issues. Now I do take care of it. I clean it regularly and lubricate anything that needs it.
If MTD had just gone to the trouble of putting a couple of those little securing washers that are used in some applications to keep carriage bolts retained in the deck for deflector brackets, there wouldn't be a problem.
I'm sorry, a couple tenths of a cent to make things easier to repair? Are we in the depression or something? 🙃
@@WayneWerner Its a factory - multiply those fractions of a cent by the number of units and assembly line time , it adds up to a savings that would pay some production engineer's annual bonus. They don't care who has to fix it later as long as it is quick and cheap to put together.
It's built to try and compete with the rear engine rider market in Europe and the UK. Technically this machine isn't that bad when you see the ones coming from one of the major European mower manufacturers.
Yes thank you for this video . I’m also a chick mechanic . Not a pro but def know my stuff . We’ll got my rider about 2 months ago and low and behold my dang idler guide rod fell off because of a vibration issue . But went to lowes for some more screws and nuts and had it going again in 30 mins . I’m just thankful this mower is fairly easy to work on .
I use E clips on those bolts so they stay in place.
I’ve done that but most of the time I weld them down 😊
Thanks for this video…I bought this mower this year…with my vet discount knocked price down under $1800. Being proactive…I took your advice and ordered the gear kit off Amazon for $16….for future use if needed. I have a half acre yard and…so far…no issues.
The junk out there is just shocking and everyone is scared to buy a new mower, price is ridiculous and not worth it
Fix what you have folks
yep, time to go back to using a scythe or a manual reel mower. unfortunately, even the manual reel mowers have doubled in price during the past 3 years.
I enjoy watching your posts. Have learned what to do, and what not to do sometimes. I am a retired carpenter. I never have used Fix a flat, but my riding mower has the green stuff in all four tires. I did this to the last mower and had good service out of them. Keep up with your posts, you have taught me a lot about chainsaws. I hope that using the green stuff doesn't cause me trouble later. Wear the bikini more often!
Stretch a small rubber band between the two carriage bolts. That will keep them from getting pushed in. Then just break it once you have the bracket over the bolts and the nuts on loosely. Or even just tighten down on it. It won't hurt anything.
A friend brought me his TB30 for service and repair. 2 years old and never changed the oil and filters. On his, he would loose steering completely. Usually in a hard left turn. Here's where I ran into a slight problem. Ordering the parts all of them would be marked TB30R and there would be a note "does not fit TB30". I took a chance and ordered it anyway. There is absolutely no difference between the TB30 and TB30R that I could find. His had the factory installed parts, so no plastic wear spacer. I ended up taking the "Tupperware" off, easy job, so I could check the bolt holding the upper shaft and lower shaft. It was loose, another common problem. On the steering rack is a center index line to help lining up the rack. I did put grease on all the "rub" points. Excellent video.
I sat on a Troy Built TB30 last week at a Lowe’s in Brantford Ontario Canada, 5.500 dollars, I’m 6’2, it was the most uncomfortable thing I have ever attempted. 😂
For 5.5k, they can ship it back to China.
A lot of people are being critical of this machine, but it serves a purpose. Replacing the steering parts is pretty straightforward & aftermarket parts are affordable/available. I've seen $10,000 John Deere mowers have parts that fail & need repair. It comes with owning stuff! The only shocking part of all this is the price increase on most everything. Riders like this were under $1,000 for a very long time. Entry level push mowers were $99-125 for decades. Items like these have easily doubled that price, & this price increase happened quite rapidly. It's not like you are getting more for your money either!
9:41 you'd think the manufacturer could put some thin spring steel retainer clips on those carriage bolts to keep them from falling out, similar to the drum retainer clips gm used on their cars with drum brakes to hold the drum on.
This lady knows her stuff…keep up the excellent work!
I have one of these mowers I’ve had for years paid $900 at Sears and you nailed it the deck switch has given me trouble but from day one I greased the steering parts and have not had trouble yet but I’ll probably go ahead and get a kit for the day of failure other than that it’s been a pretty good mower for the price
Thank you very much for this how=to= do--it-yourself and save video! I was able to change out my worn steering linkage on my Troy-Bilt/MTD 30" rider and you made it easy to understand and do, Chickanic! I appreciate that you would share your experience rather than capitalize on owners!
The $177 push mower I bought 6 months ago is $329 now.
I looked online at the cheapo Murray at Walmart (used to be 99 bucks) and could not find anything less than 250. Two years ago, I got a self propelled store return at Lowes (139 the best I can remember) but it needed some service work because the magneto was rubbing the flywheel and the governor spring was not set to a decent speed. It works great now except no side discharge.
Had this problem with this same mower shortly after I bought it. Though I know it not the right type of mower for it, I bought it for my lawn service after I recovering from broke foot due to a car accident and need something small and light enough to be pulled by my new Honda Accord while my main work truck was awaiting transmission repair. It was cheap I saw it as expendable.
The pinion gear would jump teeth on the rack gear if I hit a slight resistance in a turn or trying to re-center the wheel. A temp fix I made was to install springs on the pitman arms to keep the rack and pinion gears meshed tight. This had a bonus effect of fixing two other problem with this type of steering setup. The steering wheel would snatch right out of my hand if I hit a bump or dip in the terrain and if I make a tight turn in full lock, I had to either muscle it out which would cause it to jump teeth or reverse. Quite dangerous and almost caused me to flip my mower once if you don't expect it. The springs allowed the wheel to pull out of a tight turn and re-center much easier as well as keep the steering stable if I hit rough terrain. Might keep the springs for that purpose because it does make the mower safer to operate.
Got a suggestion for the Rack & Pinion issue. Look how wide the pinion gear is. Buy two repair kits & bolt a second rack to the first. This will double the contact surface thus reducing the wear. Also an solution for the carriage bolts falling through. Take a hacksaw blade and engage the cutting edge into the first couple of threads that come through the body. Tape the blade to the body thus holding them in place. Once the nuts are possibly started remove the blade.
Enjoy watching your repairs. my father told people that I could take a lawnmower motor apart when I was 7yr old I,m 76 now and still have the old mower with a clinton motor on it. It is missing the carb but still their. A freind brought me a craftsman r11o rider with you guessed it bad steering. I took it off and saw the problem .Then that evening I saw this segment on this model mower. Watching it really helped.You mentioned the two bolts that can get pushed up and out of thei holes and having to take the steering covers off to replace them. In the past on other projects I have used a rubber band that will keep a little pressure on them . I remove the rubber band when I get the nuts started. Just and idea that may help you or others
Get a plastic lid, coffee can, yogurt,etc. Cut a washer sized disk and fill a hole smaller then the shoulder bolt then x cut some slits across the hole. This will let you push them on the shoulder bolts and hold them to the deck while you put the mounting bracket on. This way you won't bite your tounge while doing it free hand. I do not possess the physical grace to be able too do it without cheating and I'll be damned if I'm gonna lose any more taste bus.
Thank you so much for this video. None of the local repair shops would touch this. You made it very easy. ✌️
If you do enough of these to justify making a special tool, you could get some very small needle-nosed vice grip pliers and grind the points very thin. Then when you remove that cover from the steering gear, you could clamp the vice grips on the threads of the little square-shanked bolts, right up against the body (where it won't matter if the threads get damaged a bit), and that would hold them in place later when you replace the gear cover. That might save you having to pull off the cover someday to fish out the bolts.
A little zip tie.
I use 3” needle nose vise grips too.
I'm 75 yrs old and have a 1/4-acre lot I also have COPD. bad heart (bypassed) leg problems/diabetic found a Cub (1018) w/300 hrs. w/blown head gasket replaced head gasket and ended up with a pretty good mower (replaced belts tune up, larger oil filter, blades etc.) Thought I had a good little mower after doing all that work to it THEN I viewed your video and discovered I had a POS Briggs single cylinder with bad cam shaft Now before I mow my little yard I say a prayer to the mower god. I need this mower can't do the walk behind anymore.
If this is a repair that gets done repeatedly it may be worth while to take the top apart and tack weld those carriage bolts in place.
Mine broke this morning. Your my go to for lawn care info. Thanks.
Actual cause of failure: Chinese metallurgy.
Or just pot metal where some proper steel grade should do. Or thickening up that bar so it doesn't wear so fast - looks like that gear is 2x as thick as the rack.
It is probably 50/50 the rack gear is a Chinese part. MTD is from Cleveland with US assembly plants but they import many parts
the real problem is companies realize they can put out disposable garbage and still manage to sell it. We can tell them it’s not OK with our wallets, or buy preowned and keep a piece of equipment going vs buying brand new trash.
I remember that the weed eater one was recalled or pulled off the sales floor. Wish they would quit using the customer as a QC professional
Stamped steel instead of solid parts. Plastic non serviceable transmissions.
Changed out mine this Spring with the updated version. For the shoulder bolts on the bracket I used a drop of hot glue where the bolts meet the frame. Bolts stayed in place. I removed the front wheels to make it easier to get at and remove/replace the cotter pins for the short rods. Steering is much better.
You have helped me twice so far. My mulch cover was damaged so I taped the safety. It works fine now have to order another mulch cover Thanks
Hi Bre, nice work! As I was watching you wrestle with that bracket and those bolts that might have disappeared into the upper body section from a little slip, I was contemplating a method to do that with a little less worry: wrap a small piece of single strand steel or copper wire once around each bolt with a 3 or 4 inch tail hanging out to grab on to, until you get the nuts started, and then just pull the wire out when you're ready to tighten up. I've got this mower and am glad you brought this up because I would have invented new ways to use the f bomb if those bolts vanished. Thanks again for a great video!!
I am with you on mowers that need a good cleaning . I cringe at dirty mowers.. Before my father in law passed, he purchased an MTD riding mower in 1996 (home depot special) .. this mower was his pride and joy when operating at his cottage .. We would arrive at the cottage and just after unloading luggage he would be seen going back and forth on that mower with a huge grin on his face. The mower is now 27 years old this year and still runs perfectly. Two things that were never allowed in the many years of my care .. 1) The mower was always washed after use and 2) The mower was always stored inside a clean garage. I figured this is a small token of respect to the legacy of a man whom I truly cared for during my limited time in his life.
I bought mine when they were less than a thousand bucks. I keep it clean and change the oil regularly. I had to modify the steering because of the poor design. The connecting rod is real flimsy and bends easily too. The parking lock has started not seating so another problem to fix the next oil change. I’ve been relatively happy with the mower, it gets in tight places with that 30” deck.
I’d had mine not very long when I just shorted that safety interlock so it wouldn’t quit anymore. Works like a champ! Thanks for this video, I got mine when it was $899 (unintentional rhyme).
Thanks for the video, it was very informative. I put a little hot melt glue on the shoulder bolts to keep them from pushing through the holes when I put the assembly together.
I bought this TroyBilt Rider in 2012 and it is still running like a top for me. I do my own maintenance on it and will reference you video if I ever need to make these repairs.
I have the older model that has a plastic gear. I paid about $1,000 for my mower. I need to replace my steering gear. Just in time post. I have been Bebe watching your videos. Thank you so much!
alittle something to think about , when im in a situation like you were with those shoulder bolts i always wrap them with thin piece of wire then tie the end of the off to something and once i get the nuts started just clip and remove the wire, then finish tighten nuts, always works for me
Front tires frequently go flat. I've remedied this by installing airless tires on the front. Yes, I'm sacrificing a small amount of riding comfort, but it's well worth it to have confidence they won't be flat when its time to mow.
I knew you were going there with this repair.
I have repaired one without using new parts. I tightened everything up by using a hammer to take out the slop in the bracket holding gear rack in place and plastic guide
Like you said it will need to be replaced again.
These units are cheaply made, but purchasing is high.
I do these repairs on the side and rob peter to pay paul.
Thanks for the videos.
We owned a Honda riding lawn mower like these and loved it, very high quality.
Within the first two minutes of the video you solved the issue i was having (deck safety switch) $15 part saved me lots of time, money, and frustration :)
I have used the Craftsman version of this rider for TEN seasons in Ohio. The steering has always been a little sloppy since day one, but has never worsened. I clean that rack (like it says in your manual) and use teflon dry lube spray every year. But, after all the steering repair videos here on YT, I decided that my steering rack surely MUST be worn by now, and just decided to get the improved rack as it’s an inexpensive upgrade.
- Here’s how it turned out;
1- the mower’s steering is a little bit tighter. NOT enough to really make a lot of difference, but it will be nice anyway.
2- I was shocked - my old rack wasn’t worn AT ALL. Despite 10 seasons of mowing and the model’s reputation for cheapo steering parts, the rack and pinion were as good as new!
Why? -after season one, I cleaned and regreased the steering as per the manual. What a mess!
-The next year, I cleaned again, then switched to teflon dry lube from then on. Guess what? Dry lube doesn’t collect grit from the lawn to wear down parts. Also- About every 3rd or 4th mowing, when I use the wash out port on the deck (religiously), I also use the hose to rinse off the steering rack. Just turn the wheel to each extreme, then spray. I also check the air pressure in the tires a couple of times a season. It’s also good to know that flat tires wear the steering rack.
Let’s be fair. Many YT commenters blame MTD for a lousy design and cheap parts. Guess what? Owners who don’t follow the manual and maintain their equipment deserve a lot of the blame for the steering problems on this model. It might not be the Rolls Royce of mowers, but mine has been maintained and stayed solid for a decade.