Excellent How-To. Had the same issue with my '09 C63. Engine had a funky idle, negative timing at idle and a dead spot on closed to open throttle transition. Since the air leak is in the manifold and post MAF, the PCM attempts unsuccessfully to correct the air leak.
I had the exact same issue I would however get bank 2 rich code once in a while, cleaned the intake repaired the tiny hole on the bottom cover and no more error code.
Fantastic video! I’ll think I’ll try to use studs and nuts to hold down the manifold instead of the aluminum bolts. Definitely plan to tackle this and your video is an invaluable resource to have! Thx big time Sam!
Excellent Job 😊 Thank you very much. My engine light just turned on, vacuum problem. I will probably just copy and paste what you did. Mine has already 365’000km and still all original, including automatic transmission. Again, congratulations, very well done. Best wishes from Switzerland 🇨🇭😊
Just amazingly informative...thank you! I lean to RUclips and MB World for a lot of my DIY stuff for E55 and E63 and this video is just what i needed to push me to do my own PCV/catch can/intake/TB plate...awesome! I'm gonna save THOUSANDS!! Thanks again, Sam 😉
Sam, everything went really great and the TB plate was not as corroded as I expected (but still definitely corroded).. nonetheless really glad I did this repair and replacement. I appreciate your experience and posting this video.
Just doing the same job, the lower half cover was badly corroded had to sand the corrosion and jb weld. The throttle plate was in good condition which was surprising, the intake was also covered in oil. Replaced the PVC my one was so brittle it's disintegrated. My injectors were also in pretty bad shape and were also replaced.
Good stuff man, yeah its crazy how bad they can get without showing any clear signs of failure while driving the car. I also replaced injectors on the ML abt 10k miles ago, pretty dirty with carbon buildup. I'm sure your car feels much better now after all the repairs and new parts
this is great!!! i have an e63 with 132k miles and the dealers tells me my big oil leak is from the manifold. i don't understand how oil is getting in there to leak. can you tell me how the oil is getting in there??? please?
Fantastic job. Thank you. I was curious that you did not replace the 2? internal hoses. It would see you would want to replace them while you were in there? Regards, Bo
Just responded to your other comment, but yeah those hoses aren't easily replaceable, nor do they seem to need it. I recently opened the manifold again to check on things when I had the engine out and it was in the same condition, no cracks or brittle parts to worry about
The car is back together again. The error codes are gone, and it feels like it got an extra 150hp back. Some observations. 1. The breather tube from the throttle bodies is only about $50. I would replace it. 2. I used high-temp gasket maker in combination with the throttle body gasket and the top/bottom gasket and the hose and wiring external holes. 3. My throttle plate did not have holes in it but I think that corrosion caused the gasket to leak. 4. My PCV valve broke in two when removing it; it was that brittle. 5. The cleaning of the 8 internal ports was a nasty, miserable tasks which took 5 rounds of carburetor cleaner and lint free rags. The engine intake ports were easier to get to given that they are short. 6. The dremel grinding of the oxidation was very easy and quick on mine. 7. It greatly helps to put two 8-10 inch 2x4 wood pieces under the intake when working on the semi-hard hose/tube attaching to the underside of the intake. 8. Alloy or not, the intake is HEAVY and very ungainly to handle.10. I like the Harbor Freight electronic torque wrench gizmo which turns any wrench into a torque wrench. It can be set to very low settings and it beeps when you are at the right setting. Breather Pipe Part Number - A1560180512 For Mercedes-Benz
Thanks for the part number of the breather tube! I couldn't source it even from the dealer back in 2022. Concerns with actually torquing the bolts are that the brittle magnesium, at least in my case, can no longer tolerate even the minimal torque required. It really had to be a "by feel" type of thing. Thanks for sharing your experience glad it worked out
Awesome video, buddy! I did the exact same thing except for corrosion repairs as mine didn't need it at 67000 miles. I am now at 90K miles and I found a minor oil leak toward the back of the IM -- just like in your video. I don't want to keep doing this procedure. Do you think catch can be the answer?
Rustoleum High Heat Ultra primer (wanna say rated for 2000 degrees F) and Rustoleum High Heat Paint (1200 degreees F rated) Brake caliper paint could also work as its high temp by nature, or most things from VHT. Anything that you can find which is rated for high temp will do the job!
Great video, I have same ML63 2010. I see engine a bit shaky, replaced engine transmission mounts spark plugs pcv valve and head gasket but still the engine shakes. No error codes. Have to try this now.
A little bit of vibration is normal, unless its excessive and you feel it while you're driving of course. Might be worth looking into ignition coils as well
@@SamAbraham Thanks for the feedback. I have around 160k kms done and still with original coils it came with. Do they go bad with this much kms? Still no error code but I remember my w220 was shaky and no codes was a coil going bad and solved the issue after replacing it. It had around 400k kms on it. Also I see for m156 coil part number is updated, and Delphi coils are available. Do you recommend Delphi if I plan to change all 8?
@@osmanhamedyousuf5034 As you probably know they'll usually throw a code if they're bad enough, but if its something that's sort of happened over time the ECU may have adapted to it if its still within a certain threshold. I've heard of them failing around that mileage, however my ML63 has 175k km with original coils as far as I know. I might change them soon for the sake of keeping things fresh. I know on my C63 and ML63 the OEM factory coils were actually produced by Delphi as it is
Great video! One thing though, that clamp you used a screwdriver to take apart is not a one time use clamp. I believe they're called click-r clamps, and there's a special pair of pliers used for them. And torque specs are not a recommendation. There's a reason there are torque specs.
Yes, you're correct about the clamps, however I do not have the appropriate tool to reinstall them. I'd usually agree with you on the torque specs, but they do not account for the corroded and weakened decade-old magnesium manifold that crumbles with the bolts are tightened too much.
Question for you or anyone reading this who might know. I’m at the sanding phase of this repair and focusing my attention on the throttle body retaining clip (the rectangular clip that holds the throttle body plate to the manifold)… my question is, the retaining clip is pretty corroded. We are considering JB welding it however worried doing so will affect the flatness of its surface and maintaining a good seal against the manifold. So… does that clip maintain air tightness? Or does it just hold the throttle body plate to the manifold? It seems like the throttle body plate gasket is what seals everything up. Therefore can that retaining clip / plate be a little corroded and still do it’s job? We were thinking we’d put a bit of RTV between it and the manifold to seal any crevices from the corrosion. Sorry hard problem to describe, hope it makes sense.
Hey there, I think I understand your question pretty well. From my understanding, all that piece does is keep the the throttle body plate in place. The throttle body plate has its own rubber seal as you mentioned, which creates the needed seal. I think you'll be just fine in repairing the outer piece with whatever means possible, as its function appears to just be keeping things where they should be. Best of luck with the rest of your repair and hope it all goes smoothly moving forward.
@@SamAbraham ok great thanks for sharing your POV! After more research and a few of my mechanic friends sharing this perspective, we are going to just repair the plate as best we can and hope for the best. Thanks!
After using the engine degreaser did you hose/water down the intake to get all the grime out and then let it dry or how did you go about getting all that dirty degreaser fluid out? Thanks
Just pulled my intake manifold off my 2010 c63. Found the Throttle body plate corroded and failing in the same spots. However, on the front of the manifold itself, where one of the vacuum hoses plugs in, there’s a protruding circular spot that has a crack and looks in pretty bad shape. I’m still hopeful I can have it cleaned, sanded, sealed and painted like yours but I worry the damage may be too great. As of Aug 2023 I am only able to find one place selling a new manifold for $4600… it was $2500 from MB before it was discontinued. I’m optimistic mine can be repaired but if it cannot, I wonder what a dealership would do if I asked them to fix it? Sell me a whole new engine? Is there any chance MB will start making this part again given the failure rate?
P.S. really great video! Following your steps made it super easy to take off. One other thing I encountered… two of the aluminum manifold bolts were hand loose. Worked themselves loose over time perhaps. I wonder if that contributed to the CEL. In any case the manifold is still corroded 😢
Its honestly ridiculous that its so hard to get a crucial part for cars that aren't even that old... You can buy an entirely used M156 for not that far off the cost you mentioned for a new manifold (when it was available). It eventually becomes more cost effective to buy an entry level supercharger, which replaces the manifold, than to get a direct manifold replacement. Unacceptable on MB's end, and I truly hope they put the M156 manifold back into production. Best of luck with your repair and I hope you are able to get it taken care of without needing a new one. Also, the loose screws are likely due to magnesium corrosion on the threads of the manifold. As a result of this corrosion and overall brittle material, I had to be especially conscious when tightening the new screws, if you use the mfr. torque specs its almost a guarantee that it will cause more damage than anything else!
Honestly didn't have any noticeable symptoms, car was acting "normal" but felt a tiny bit sluggish compared to our C63. For the longest time we attributed that to the weight of the ML but after doing this its much more responsive than before. No error lights either. Given your S63 is an 08, its more than likely you have some corrosion
While it does, it becomes a bit dodgy at the time of resealing from what I've been told. No one really separates that part because it only seems to cause issues
Did anybody replace the very hard vacuum tubing running in series between the two valve throttle bodies and the exterior of the intake manifold? I am worried about it failing, and I am worried about using regular rubber vacuum hosing. Marking is Conti SKS Z0159601 PA12 08/038 . It appears to be an 8mm inside diameter.
Personally haven't seen it fail, even on 200k mile manifolds, but I completely understand your concern. Due to the vacuum that hose may face I wouldn't be confident in a rubber hose as it may collapse eventually, but there are stiffer rubber hoses you could use designed for PCV hoses. I can't think of one that would fit perfectly but it would probably have to be something similar in material and shape. I recently bought some aftermarket PCV hoses for my W163 ML500, and I'd imagine if those were a bit longer they may fit that spot in the M156 manifold. Not sure about their diameter though
Hi Sam! I’m currently in possession of a ML63 (W164) from 2007. Its currently at the garage because there is a Check engine light. Apparently it was the intake manifold. We tried fixing it 3 times but still no sigar… it keeps losing air. So we are thinking of buying a new one, but i can’t find one anywhere! Do you got some advice for me? Im kind of desperate at the moment😅
Sorry to hear! Guessing yours is completely warped? It can happen to these, and even this video can't help depending on the severity. Your best bet is finding one used in good condition. Hard to judge condition of course, but typically the newer with less mileage the better. Then again that can vary if the donor part was in a climate with lots of moisture. I'd check around ebay and see if you have any luck.
Great video, actually just used your steps to do my e63. Repaired throttle body plate, cleaned up throttle body’s and replaced pcv and old vacuum lines. After putting ever back together, I’m getting a ringing/whining sound coming from the front driver side of the manifold at idle that gets slightly louder with a bit of throttle. The sound went away after unplugging and replugging the driver side air box sensor but came back on the next start up. I have a feeling it’s a vacuum leak but can’t figure it out. Any tips or info would be much appreciated.
Wonder if its one of the vacuum lines that attaches to the "Y tube" that essentially connects the air flow from the airboxes to the intake manifold. Weird if the sound goes and come back depending on if the MAF is connected or not. Maybe try cleaning the sensor with some MAF cleaner spray and see if that alleviates the issue?
@@SamAbraham I did some more research on forums and got the same answer, so that’s the next thing I’m gunna try. I torqued the manifold to spec so it shouldn’t be leaking from there. I appreciate the reply
@@SamAbraham cleaned up the MAF sensors and the sound hasn’t came back yet after a few start ups so, so far so good. Still feeling a slight vacuum leak though so I’m gunna have to smoke test it soon but other than that everything is running smooth thanks to your video
Can coolant loss be attributed to the manifold gasket failing? I have been losing coolant in a 2009 ml 63 and looking at headbolts. Is it possible it’s manifold gasket
Could a cracked intake manifold cause a P0113 code? My brother’s mechanic has checked the harness and cleaned the MAF but the fault is still present. Any ideas appreciated!
Is there specific torque specs on the intake manifold when closing it? I know there’s a torque spec to place the manifold onto the engine but unsure of the torque specs to put the manifold back together
There are not, as Mercedes doesn't really intend for people to disassemble the manifold in most circumstances. They expect you to replace the entire manifold... they sell them at the dealer with the throttle bodies preinstalled and everything
Nope, this can happen anywhere unfortunately. The car has been in california all its life, one of the places least affected by corrosion on automotive parts
Honestly didn;t have any specific symptoms, I just knew this was going to be an issue given the age of the car. After the repair the car was noticeably more responsive.
All I was able to find were the specs for the manifold to the block which were something like 15nm with various angles in different stages, however the problem I had with that was that even the new alu bolts seemed like they were going to snap at any second, or worse crack the manifold. I did it more by feel and snugged the bolts up, then checked the bolts again a couple days later after the car had been driven a few times to see how everything was holding up and they were all still tight
@@SamAbraham I just did an intake manifold Refresh on my C63 and for some reason it idles fine but when I drive it and I come to a complete stop the needle jumps a little bit
Great Video, this is on my todo list for my 2010 E63. Your steps are very easy to understand.
I am French, thank you for your videos on this engine. serious to you I realize a lot of things myself on my M156 (C63 for me)
Salut Jordan, je suis Français aussi, si je comprends bien tu as réaliser le remplacement toi même ?
@@MrOzkan38 salut, oui j’ai déjà fais pas mal de chose moi même sur mon M156.
Est ce que tu peut me donner des infos stp? Y’a t’il une solution pour qu’on puisse s’écrire plus facilement ?
Excellent How-To. Had the same issue with my '09 C63. Engine had a funky idle, negative timing at idle and a dead spot on closed to open throttle transition. Since the air leak is in the manifold and post MAF, the PCM attempts unsuccessfully to correct the air leak.
Makes sense now as to why you don't get an error code, thanks for the info
@@SamAbraham l
I had the exact same issue I would however get bank 2 rich code once in a while, cleaned the intake repaired the tiny hole on the bottom cover and no more error code.
Fantastic video! I’ll think I’ll try to use studs and nuts to hold down the manifold instead of the aluminum bolts. Definitely plan to tackle this and your video is an invaluable resource to have! Thx big time Sam!
That's a great idea, much better than dealing with replacing the bolts, let me know how that works out whenever you get to it!
Do you know where I can get the studs and nuts
@@CompBuilt Just added the stock alu bolts to the description, but not sure if Anderzen has sourced the proper stud/nut combo
Excellent Job 😊 Thank you very much. My engine light just turned on, vacuum problem. I will probably just copy and paste what you did. Mine has already 365’000km and still all original, including automatic transmission. Again, congratulations, very well done. Best wishes from Switzerland 🇨🇭😊
Hope all goes well!
Just amazingly informative...thank you! I lean to RUclips and MB World for a lot of my DIY stuff for E55 and E63 and this video is just what i needed to push me to do my own PCV/catch can/intake/TB plate...awesome! I'm gonna save THOUSANDS!! Thanks again, Sam 😉
Glad it was helpful! Best of luck on the repair!
Sam, everything went really great and the TB plate was not as corroded as I expected (but still definitely corroded).. nonetheless really glad I did this repair and replacement. I appreciate your experience and posting this video.
@@yesiram8 Super glad to hear things went smoothly! Now you can have the peace of mind
do you have the links for the videos/ forums@@yesiram8
Just doing the same job, the lower half cover was badly corroded had to sand the corrosion and jb weld. The throttle plate was in good condition which was surprising, the intake was also covered in oil. Replaced the PVC my one was so brittle it's disintegrated. My injectors were also in pretty bad shape and were also replaced.
Good stuff man, yeah its crazy how bad they can get without showing any clear signs of failure while driving the car. I also replaced injectors on the ML abt 10k miles ago, pretty dirty with carbon buildup. I'm sure your car feels much better now after all the repairs and new parts
Great video, thank you so much for every single detail !
this is great!!! i have an e63 with 132k miles and the dealers tells me my big oil leak is from the manifold. i don't understand how oil is getting in there to leak. can you tell me how the oil is getting in there??? please?
Fantastic job. Thank you. I was curious that you did not replace the 2? internal hoses. It would see you would want to replace them while you were in there? Regards, Bo
Just responded to your other comment, but yeah those hoses aren't easily replaceable, nor do they seem to need it. I recently opened the manifold again to check on things when I had the engine out and it was in the same condition, no cracks or brittle parts to worry about
The car is back together again. The error codes are gone, and it feels like it got an extra 150hp back. Some observations. 1. The breather tube from the throttle bodies is only about $50. I would replace it. 2. I used high-temp gasket maker in combination with the throttle body gasket and the top/bottom gasket and the hose and wiring external holes. 3. My throttle plate did not have holes in it but I think that corrosion caused the gasket to leak. 4. My PCV valve broke in two when removing it; it was that brittle. 5. The cleaning of the 8 internal ports was a nasty, miserable tasks which took 5 rounds of carburetor cleaner and lint free rags. The engine intake ports were easier to get to given that they are short. 6. The dremel grinding of the oxidation was very easy and quick on mine. 7. It greatly helps to put two 8-10 inch 2x4 wood pieces under the intake when working on the semi-hard hose/tube attaching to the underside of the intake. 8. Alloy or not, the intake is HEAVY and very ungainly to handle.10. I like the Harbor Freight electronic torque wrench gizmo which turns any wrench into a torque wrench. It can be set to very low settings and it beeps when you are at the right setting. Breather Pipe Part Number - A1560180512 For Mercedes-Benz
Thanks for the part number of the breather tube! I couldn't source it even from the dealer back in 2022. Concerns with actually torquing the bolts are that the brittle magnesium, at least in my case, can no longer tolerate even the minimal torque required. It really had to be a "by feel" type of thing. Thanks for sharing your experience glad it worked out
Great video. I hv an 2008 CL63 dtc 0230 and 0234 found this intake to be my problem gonna take the intake apart and see what i find
Good luck with the repair, hopefully the issue isn’t too severe
Excellent Thanks . Larry Hernandez
Nice video! I'll be doing my 2009 CLS63 soon.
Good stuff
Awesome video, buddy! I did the exact same thing except for corrosion repairs as mine didn't need it at 67000 miles. I am now at 90K miles and I found a minor oil leak toward the back of the IM -- just like in your video. I don't want to keep doing this procedure. Do you think catch can be the answer?
The best answer is to drive somewhere far on a cliff side area. Get out of the car and push it off a cliff.
very helpful! Could u please tell me what kind of paint do you use? The intake manifold can be very hot!
Rustoleum High Heat Ultra primer (wanna say rated for 2000 degrees F) and Rustoleum High Heat Paint (1200 degreees F rated) Brake caliper paint could also work as its high temp by nature, or most things from VHT. Anything that you can find which is rated for high temp will do the job!
If you do this job you can replace the pcv valve. Its easy and it’s a very important part of the engine
Its in the video
Great video!!!
Great video, I have same ML63 2010. I see engine a bit shaky, replaced engine transmission mounts spark plugs pcv valve and head gasket but still the engine shakes. No error codes. Have to try this now.
A little bit of vibration is normal, unless its excessive and you feel it while you're driving of course. Might be worth looking into ignition coils as well
@@SamAbraham Thanks for the feedback. I have around 160k kms done and still with original coils it came with. Do they go bad with this much kms? Still no error code but I remember my w220 was shaky and no codes was a coil going bad and solved the issue after replacing it. It had around 400k kms on it. Also I see for m156 coil part number is updated, and Delphi coils are available. Do you recommend Delphi if I plan to change all 8?
@@osmanhamedyousuf5034 As you probably know they'll usually throw a code if they're bad enough, but if its something that's sort of happened over time the ECU may have adapted to it if its still within a certain threshold. I've heard of them failing around that mileage, however my ML63 has 175k km with original coils as far as I know. I might change them soon for the sake of keeping things fresh. I know on my C63 and ML63 the OEM factory coils were actually produced by Delphi as it is
Great video! One thing though, that clamp you used a screwdriver to take apart is not a one time use clamp. I believe they're called click-r clamps, and there's a special pair of pliers used for them. And torque specs are not a recommendation. There's a reason there are torque specs.
Yes, you're correct about the clamps, however I do not have the appropriate tool to reinstall them. I'd usually agree with you on the torque specs, but they do not account for the corroded and weakened decade-old magnesium manifold that crumbles with the bolts are tightened too much.
Question for you or anyone reading this who might know. I’m at the sanding phase of this repair and focusing my attention on the throttle body retaining clip (the rectangular clip that holds the throttle body plate to the manifold)… my question is, the retaining clip is pretty corroded. We are considering JB welding it however worried doing so will affect the flatness of its surface and maintaining a good seal against the manifold. So… does that clip maintain air tightness? Or does it just hold the throttle body plate to the manifold? It seems like the throttle body plate gasket is what seals everything up. Therefore can that retaining clip / plate be a little corroded and still do it’s job? We were thinking we’d put a bit of RTV between it and the manifold to seal any crevices from the corrosion. Sorry hard problem to describe, hope it makes sense.
Hey there, I think I understand your question pretty well. From my understanding, all that piece does is keep the the throttle body plate in place. The throttle body plate has its own rubber seal as you mentioned, which creates the needed seal. I think you'll be just fine in repairing the outer piece with whatever means possible, as its function appears to just be keeping things where they should be. Best of luck with the rest of your repair and hope it all goes smoothly moving forward.
@@SamAbraham ok great thanks for sharing your POV! After more research and a few of my mechanic friends sharing this perspective, we are going to just repair the plate as best we can and hope for the best. Thanks!
After using the engine degreaser did you hose/water down the intake to get all the grime out and then let it dry or how did you go about getting all that dirty degreaser fluid out? Thanks
Great Sam, many thanks i will do it thes e days
Awesome video 👍👍
Just pulled my intake manifold off my 2010 c63. Found the Throttle body plate corroded and failing in the same spots. However, on the front of the manifold itself, where one of the vacuum hoses plugs in, there’s a protruding circular spot that has a crack and looks in pretty bad shape. I’m still hopeful I can have it cleaned, sanded, sealed and painted like yours but I worry the damage may be too great. As of Aug 2023 I am only able to find one place selling a new manifold for $4600… it was $2500 from MB before it was discontinued. I’m optimistic mine can be repaired but if it cannot, I wonder what a dealership would do if I asked them to fix it? Sell me a whole new engine? Is there any chance MB will start making this part again given the failure rate?
P.S. really great video! Following your steps made it super easy to take off. One other thing I encountered… two of the aluminum manifold bolts were hand loose. Worked themselves loose over time perhaps. I wonder if that contributed to the CEL. In any case the manifold is still corroded 😢
Its honestly ridiculous that its so hard to get a crucial part for cars that aren't even that old... You can buy an entirely used M156 for not that far off the cost you mentioned for a new manifold (when it was available). It eventually becomes more cost effective to buy an entry level supercharger, which replaces the manifold, than to get a direct manifold replacement. Unacceptable on MB's end, and I truly hope they put the M156 manifold back into production. Best of luck with your repair and I hope you are able to get it taken care of without needing a new one. Also, the loose screws are likely due to magnesium corrosion on the threads of the manifold. As a result of this corrosion and overall brittle material, I had to be especially conscious when tightening the new screws, if you use the mfr. torque specs its almost a guarantee that it will cause more damage than anything else!
Awesome video! What symptoms do you have ? I have s63 2008 and think i have same problem but I don’t have any check engine lights
Honestly didn't have any noticeable symptoms, car was acting "normal" but felt a tiny bit sluggish compared to our C63. For the longest time we attributed that to the weight of the ML but after doing this its much more responsive than before. No error lights either. Given your S63 is an 08, its more than likely you have some corrosion
@@SamAbraham thank you!
Does the manifold separate even more? I believe theirs more gaskets under that. The swirling flaps come out
While it does, it becomes a bit dodgy at the time of resealing from what I've been told. No one really separates that part because it only seems to cause issues
Did anybody replace the very hard vacuum tubing running in series between the two valve throttle bodies and the exterior of the intake manifold? I am worried about it failing, and I am worried about using regular rubber vacuum hosing. Marking is Conti SKS Z0159601 PA12 08/038 . It appears to be an 8mm inside diameter.
Personally haven't seen it fail, even on 200k mile manifolds, but I completely understand your concern. Due to the vacuum that hose may face I wouldn't be confident in a rubber hose as it may collapse eventually, but there are stiffer rubber hoses you could use designed for PCV hoses. I can't think of one that would fit perfectly but it would probably have to be something similar in material and shape. I recently bought some aftermarket PCV hoses for my W163 ML500, and I'd imagine if those were a bit longer they may fit that spot in the M156 manifold. Not sure about their diameter though
Hi Sam!
I’m currently in possession of a ML63 (W164) from 2007. Its currently at the garage because there is a Check engine light. Apparently it was the intake manifold. We tried fixing it 3 times but still no sigar… it keeps losing air. So we are thinking of buying a new one, but i can’t find one anywhere! Do you got some advice for me? Im kind of desperate at the moment😅
Sorry to hear! Guessing yours is completely warped? It can happen to these, and even this video can't help depending on the severity. Your best bet is finding one used in good condition. Hard to judge condition of course, but typically the newer with less mileage the better. Then again that can vary if the donor part was in a climate with lots of moisture. I'd check around ebay and see if you have any luck.
Great video, actually just used your steps to do my e63. Repaired throttle body plate, cleaned up throttle body’s and replaced pcv and old vacuum lines. After putting ever back together, I’m getting a ringing/whining sound coming from the front driver side of the manifold at idle that gets slightly louder with a bit of throttle. The sound went away after unplugging and replugging the driver side air box sensor but came back on the next start up. I have a feeling it’s a vacuum leak but can’t figure it out. Any tips or info would be much appreciated.
Wonder if its one of the vacuum lines that attaches to the "Y tube" that essentially connects the air flow from the airboxes to the intake manifold. Weird if the sound goes and come back depending on if the MAF is connected or not. Maybe try cleaning the sensor with some MAF cleaner spray and see if that alleviates the issue?
@@SamAbraham I did some more research on forums and got the same answer, so that’s the next thing I’m gunna try. I torqued the manifold to spec so it shouldn’t be leaking from there. I appreciate the reply
@@E.six.3 Yeah keep me posted, curious what the solution is
@@SamAbraham cleaned up the MAF sensors and the sound hasn’t came back yet after a few start ups so, so far so good. Still feeling a slight vacuum leak though so I’m gunna have to smoke test it soon but other than that everything is running smooth thanks to your video
@@E.six.3 Glad it seems like things are moving in the right direction, hopefully you were able to pinpoint the vacuum leak?
Can coolant loss be attributed to the manifold gasket failing? I have been losing coolant in a 2009 ml 63 and looking at headbolts. Is it possible it’s manifold gasket
No the intake manifold wouldn't impact coolant at all
can you show how to remove that y pipe with the 2 clips cant get it off
Could a cracked intake manifold cause a P0113 code? My brother’s mechanic has checked the harness and cleaned the MAF but the fault is still present. Any ideas appreciated!
I can buy the same throttle body plate you have linked even if it's for my 08 cls63 right? they should be the same?
Correct!
good video 👍
Is there specific torque specs on the intake manifold when closing it? I know there’s a torque spec to place the manifold onto the engine but unsure of the torque specs to put the manifold back together
There are not, as Mercedes doesn't really intend for people to disassemble the manifold in most circumstances. They expect you to replace the entire manifold... they sell them at the dealer with the throttle bodies preinstalled and everything
Has the car been used in an environment conducive to corrosion, such as a windy seaside location or humid location? Or can this happen anywhere ?
Nope, this can happen anywhere unfortunately. The car has been in california all its life, one of the places least affected by corrosion on automotive parts
We need a company for the lower mani. This magnesium stuff just doesnt hold up
Definitely, luckily it can be decently repaired and there aren't many complex parts of that lower section
What’s the part number for that elbow hose that connects the Y ? Thanks
Just added a link to the description, the # is A1170780681
What type of jb weld? Standard? Amazon link?
I probably should've made that clear, JB Weld KwikWeld, the steel reinforced one. Here it is, adding to description as well: amzn.to/3vg1uvJ
What kinda of symptoms did you get ??
Honestly didn;t have any specific symptoms, I just knew this was going to be an issue given the age of the car. After the repair the car was noticeably more responsive.
Did you notice an improvement in response or hp?
Definitely noticed the ML was much more responsive after doing this
Do you have the torque specs for this job? Thanks
All I was able to find were the specs for the manifold to the block which were something like 15nm with various angles in different stages, however the problem I had with that was that even the new alu bolts seemed like they were going to snap at any second, or worse crack the manifold. I did it more by feel and snugged the bolts up, then checked the bolts again a couple days later after the car had been driven a few times to see how everything was holding up and they were all still tight
what did you clean the manifold with?
Pretty sure I used Purple Power and various engine degreasers, basically whatever I could find in my garage lol
@@SamAbraham I just did an intake manifold Refresh on my C63 and for some reason it idles fine but when I drive it and I come to a complete stop the needle jumps a little bit
I was just about to knock this out in my 2011 ML63 but I sold it. :-/
Awww
What mileage are you at in the video
Believe 95k miles
How many km?
When I did this probably a little under 160k km
Why was it leaking by back of the manifold. Mine is doing the same thing
The oil leaking out of the back was from both the PCV valve and excess oil in the manifold from blow by gasses
@@SamAbraham so by changing the pcv valve it should be fixed. I changed the on the passenger side already
@@CompBuilt Potentially yes, unless there is a lot of oil buildup also inside ur manifold. What did u replace on the passenger side?