Great job! You confirmed just what I thought my problem was. I especially enjoyed your animated character during the video---you made it even better!!!!!
I love to listen to you talk I can listen to you talk about anything bro by the way I have a 2001 Vulcan 1500 classic and her name is Abigail and I love her she's my baby and I am in the process of rebuilding her right now from the ground up thank you for this video it was very helpful
I just bought a 2000 with 19000 miles in the spring for $3200. I love it! I go riding with my Harley buddies and its as quick as the newer 114ci Harleys. Very impressed with it
Wow... great, informative video!!! Thank you!!! I dont have the problem (yet, lol) but...I'm currently in the process of getting my dad's (rip) 2003 Vulcan 1500 Classic back on the road (hopefully) after having sat for I'm guessing 10 years or so now. Got her running a few months back (only on full open choke) once I tried pushing the choke back in or giving a bit of throttle, she would stall out! I know it's mainly carburation and that's the first thing getting attention!! Then, once running, I'll do EVERYthing else!!! ALL fluids, battery, tires/tubes, brake pads, and some misc. parts!!! Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!!! : ) Again...thank you for the video and I'm definitely going to keep it saved for future reference!!! : ) Don W., Ohio. USA!!!
As I suspected all that extra equipment for sucking the fluid is really not needed. Also your little bottle seemed to be unnecessary as it (as always hein) ending up in just an ice cream box. Thanks for the entertainment, Now I go to my Vn 1700 and see if a simple gravity bleeding can solive my issue; sometimes the clutch handle stucks,
How was the release later? Looked like engaging too soon here, that's how mine currently is acting after putting new bars on. My fluid is extremely dirty and I think plugged it up real bad. Hoping bleeding and changing fixes it 🤞. Great video and great ride! Thanks for info.
Thanks for the info. The problem I’m having is when I shift into first and release the clutch I don’t have any power, it shifts to first and neutral just fine and the kill switch works as it should so I know it’s shifting. I have a 2000 Vulcan 1500 classic. ( The bike also doesn’t stall when I release the clutch in 1st I’m gonna try bleeding and hopefully that’s it!)
@@davidcaswell4111 at around 20,000 miles my 2000 vulcan 1500's clutch started slipping a little. I had the clutch spring replaced with the recommended Mean Streak, heavier spring. I now have 65,000 miles on it.
Bottle must be higher than the bleeder nipple so the bubbles rise through the liquid as the liquid drops and fills the air void created by bleeding. Therefore no air sucked back it.
That seems like a good point. What's not clear to me however is how this is supposed to work to not require more hands. Apparently there's a one-way valve in the bottle? Also wondering if this would work for bleeding automobile brakes.
@@ikester475 No one way valve. Just really ingenious! You hook it up to the bleeder and magnetize the bottle above the work usually on the inside of the fender or wheel well so the bottle is above the bleeder. Loosen the bleeder enough to see air bubbles escape. Then make sure you have the bottle 3/4 full. Go press on the brake peddle slowly as not to blow off the line from the bleeder. Slowly allow the brake pedal to return as it's sucking fluid back in to replace the air bubbles. Get out and check bottle to make sure your fluid level is still maintained to avoid sucking in air bubbles. Check your master cylinder level from time to time. This gadget is well worth the time and is the only way to do this without a helper. Remember to tighten the bleeder before disturbing the bottle or removing the line.
@@USMC-Sniper-0137 not sure I understand. The fresh fluid comes from the bottle and enters through the bleeder into the slave? How does air closer to the master make its way to the bleeder then?
Great video. Not being familiar with that bleed bottle, I'm wondering how it works. Another commenter suggests that the bottle needs to be above the bleed screw. ICM wondering how it would have worked of your mate hadn't happened by. :) Anyway, without the bleed bottle, would it be the same process as bleeding an auto brake line i.e. crack open the bleed screw, slowly squeeze the handle, close the bleed screw, release the handle, repeat until air stops coming out at bleed screw?
I have a 99 kawasaki vulcan nomad... I have the same clutch set up I didn't see the actual part you were bleeding.... And...about how long did the job actually take??
Bleeding is the part where you pump the brake handle after loosening the bleed nipple. It’s in there. Probably an hour and a half but only because I’d never done it before and was working it out as I went along.
@@JebbreysJibberish I understand what the bleeding is.... It's literally the same principle as bleeding the brakes on a car...... You pump a few times and then you hold while somebody else opens the nipple to let the air out........ What I meant was I could not see the actual slave cylinder.....to see what nipple you were opening and closing
Since you have the same bike as me, has it had any bad tranny problems? For mine, when I am in third gear and hit the throttle, it feels like it goes into neutral and auto shifts into 4th gear, so I skip through 3rd now. Just yesterday and today when I hit the throttle in 4th sometimes it will have a scraping sound and shake feeling until I release the throttle. Is that tranny or clutch problem?
I’ve since sold the Vulcan as I didn’t have the space for it anymore but after 10 years of owning it and nearly 100,000kms on it, it never gave me any hassles with the box. It does sound something is not right with yours though :-(
My 2001 Vulcan VN1500FI Classic (105k miles) has been idle for two years as I've been using the 2002 Nomad daily. On a run yesterday, the Classic's clutch was "slipping" really bad. How can the clutch get worn if it's not being used? Now I see that it is likely air in the clutch fluid. Great video, I'll bleed the system and see of it's still "slipping".
@@JebbreysJibberish I'm embarrassed to say that I have not yet gotten to it. In the winter months of little riding (wet roads and snow can be a problem for two wheeled vehicles), the Vulcan has become low priority but as soon as weather conditions change, I'll get to it and post a report. I promise!
![KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 [2004] How to change clutch , replacement by The Old Mechanic PART 1 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/l4OEtCA8OnU/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job! You confirmed just what I thought my problem was. I especially enjoyed your animated character during the video---you made it even better!!!!!
Thank you! I’m glad you got it sorted.
Well done, Great advice. Thanks for posting this. Saved me a trip to the dealer.
I love to listen to you talk I can listen to you talk about anything bro by the way I have a 2001 Vulcan 1500 classic and her name is Abigail and I love her she's my baby and I am in the process of rebuilding her right now from the ground up thank you for this video it was very helpful
Thank you very much for the comment! Good luck with the build. 👍
Thanks for making this video. I’ll be doing the same thing on my 02 1500 Drifter and now know how to go about it.
Been having a clutch issue with my 02, same color even! Will be trying this tomorrow
Fingers crossed it solved it 👍
That black section behind the cover is your stator. That's a ton of fun to replace. Great looking bike! Mine is a 00 same model.
🍻
I just bought a 2000 with 19000 miles in the spring for $3200. I love it! I go riding with my Harley buddies and its as quick as the newer 114ci Harleys. Very impressed with it
Working on one now! Very helpful, Thanks!
Glad to have helped!
Your lucky you didn't have to replace the clutch it self that's alot of fun.
I did the clutch spring on it once, but never the whole clutch itself.
They are actually quite easy. I am certainly no mechanic and got it done without any issues.
Wow... great, informative video!!! Thank you!!! I dont have the problem (yet, lol) but...I'm currently in the process of getting my dad's (rip) 2003 Vulcan 1500 Classic back on the road (hopefully) after having sat for I'm guessing 10 years or so now. Got her running a few months back (only on full open choke) once I tried pushing the choke back in or giving a bit of throttle, she would stall out! I know it's mainly carburation and that's the first thing getting attention!! Then, once running, I'll do EVERYthing else!!! ALL fluids, battery, tires/tubes, brake pads, and some misc. parts!!! Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!!! : ) Again...thank you for the video and I'm definitely going to keep it saved for future reference!!! : ) Don W., Ohio. USA!!!
As I suspected all that extra equipment for sucking the fluid is really not needed. Also your little bottle seemed to be unnecessary as it (as always hein) ending up in just an ice cream box. Thanks for the entertainment, Now I go to my Vn 1700 and see if a simple gravity bleeding can solive my issue; sometimes the clutch handle stucks,
Nice to have a second set of hands when bleeding things 🤣🤣🤣. So much for your One Man Bleeder tool!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Seems like an interesting device though. I'm wondering how things would have worked out if his mate hadn't happened by.
How was the release later? Looked like engaging too soon here, that's how mine currently is acting after putting new bars on. My fluid is extremely dirty and I think plugged it up real bad. Hoping bleeding and changing fixes it 🤞. Great video and great ride! Thanks for info.
Thanks for the info. The problem I’m having is when I shift into first and release the clutch I don’t have any power, it shifts to first and neutral just fine and the kill switch works as it should so I know it’s shifting. I have a 2000 Vulcan 1500 classic. ( The bike also doesn’t stall when I release the clutch in 1st I’m gonna try bleeding and hopefully that’s it!)
Did you happen to find the issue? Having similar symptoms
@@davidcaswell4111 at around 20,000 miles my 2000 vulcan 1500's clutch started slipping a little. I had the clutch spring replaced with the recommended Mean Streak, heavier spring. I now have 65,000 miles on it.
Bottle must be higher than the bleeder nipple so the bubbles rise through the liquid as the liquid drops and fills the air void created by bleeding. Therefore no air sucked back it.
That seems like a good point. What's not clear to me however is how this is supposed to work to not require more hands. Apparently there's a one-way valve in the bottle? Also wondering if this would work for bleeding automobile brakes.
Yes this designed specially for automobile brakes. They’ve been around for decades here in Australia.
@@ikester475 No one way valve. Just really ingenious! You hook it up to the bleeder and magnetize the bottle above the work usually on the inside of the fender or wheel well so the bottle is above the bleeder. Loosen the bleeder enough to see air bubbles escape. Then make sure you have the bottle 3/4 full. Go press on the brake peddle slowly as not to blow off the line from the bleeder. Slowly allow the brake pedal to return as it's sucking fluid back in to replace the air bubbles. Get out and check bottle to make sure your fluid level is still maintained to avoid sucking in air bubbles. Check your master cylinder level from time to time. This gadget is well worth the time and is the only way to do this without a helper. Remember to tighten the bleeder before disturbing the bottle or removing the line.
@@USMC-Sniper-0137 not sure I understand. The fresh fluid comes from the bottle and enters through the bleeder into the slave? How does air closer to the master make its way to the bleeder then?
My clutch won't move gotta diagnose it...I have a 1500d vulcan classic 1996 with 9900 miles
That's exactly what happened to mine
Great video. Not being familiar with that bleed bottle, I'm wondering how it works. Another commenter suggests that the bottle needs to be above the bleed screw. ICM wondering how it would have worked of your mate hadn't happened by. :)
Anyway, without the bleed bottle, would it be the same process as bleeding an auto brake line i.e. crack open the bleed screw, slowly squeeze the handle, close the bleed screw, release the handle, repeat until air stops coming out at bleed screw?
thank you very mucch....just advice, when you recording is better for us to se e closely what you doing.....hugs
Dude I got the exact same bike and color as u guy what a sexy machine 😉
thx for this video
I have a 99 kawasaki vulcan nomad...
I have the same clutch set up
I didn't see the actual part you were bleeding....
And...about how long did the job actually take??
Bleeding is the part where you pump the brake handle after loosening the bleed nipple. It’s in there. Probably an hour and a half but only because I’d never done it before and was working it out as I went along.
@@JebbreysJibberish I understand what the bleeding is.... It's literally the same principle as bleeding the brakes on a car...... You pump a few times and then you hold while somebody else opens the nipple to let the air out........ What I meant was I could not see the actual slave cylinder.....to see what nipple you were opening and closing
Since you have the same bike as me, has it had any bad tranny problems? For mine, when I am in third gear and hit the throttle, it feels like it goes into neutral and auto shifts into 4th gear, so I skip through 3rd now. Just yesterday and today when I hit the throttle in 4th sometimes it will have a scraping sound and shake feeling until I release the throttle. Is that tranny or clutch problem?
I’ve since sold the Vulcan as I didn’t have the space for it anymore but after 10 years of owning it and nearly 100,000kms on it, it never gave me any hassles with the box. It does sound something is not right with yours though :-(
My 2001 Vulcan VN1500FI Classic (105k miles) has been idle for two years as I've been using the 2002 Nomad daily. On a run yesterday, the Classic's clutch was "slipping" really bad. How can the clutch get worn if it's not being used? Now I see that it is likely air in the clutch fluid. Great video, I'll bleed the system and see of it's still "slipping".
maybe just the brake down of the material over time like shelf life?
@@travisbanner8695 I have yet to get to this project, been super busy with other stuff...
@@scarpia519 ever figure out the slip issue?
Did you bleed it like in my video?
@@JebbreysJibberish I'm embarrassed to say that I have not yet gotten to it. In the winter months of little riding (wet roads and snow can be a problem for two wheeled vehicles), the Vulcan has become low priority but as soon as weather conditions change, I'll get to it and post a report. I promise!
How you adjust the clutch
Hydraulic clutches typically can’t be adjusted. You can put stiffer springs in though if it is slipping.
My bikes sat for 2 years and won’t shift at all… thanks
Was it hard to pull
Put proper shoes on, my God those are the same shoes my girlfriend wears