It’s always something, seams like you never catch up. Thanks for making these videos. You rebuild a lot of equipment to use building your house. Now it’s your house, next the shop, more equipment. Don’t forget to save time for your family and God. Enjoy your videos.
Dang Jesse this thumb fought you since the beginning but with your persistence, strong work ethic and the want to do things the rite way you got it done and it works and looks great!! We need more people like you in this world.. men, real men that get things done and care and provide for their family’s, people like you are the backbone of this world. Keep up the great work my friend I really enjoy watching your videos👍👍
That would have gotten some 4 letter words out of me, for sure. I hate fixing something twice! $500 for a new rod is really a pretty reasonable deal. Nice work on this job.
Man this thumb is giving a lot of grief I hope it stop giving any more grief. This thumb was a nightmare right from the start, the cool thing I like about you is you never give up like me, we are stuber and keep going till there is no more options to continue.
I had the exact same problem with the same brand cylinder on a thumb I built for my excavator. Part of the issue is that the Magister rods are not hardened at all, for safety reasons. I had a new rod made from 2" case hardened shaft and added a 10" restrictor sleeve to limit how far the rod can extend out of the 48" cylinder I'm using, plus a relief valve. All seems good now.
You forgot to do what every operator does when a rod bends: suck it back into the cylinder so it scores the barrel and makes it impossible to get it apart.
Jesse Thanks for the comment about the locktite hydraulic formula. I immediately ordered it and when I had a hydraulic repair today, I was very happy to use it for the first time. Thanks!
Hydraulics can generate an amazing amount of force. Plus, that thumb cylinder has leverage working against it. Bucket curl is usually the strongest function of an excavator, as it equates to break out force (digging force). It might have around 10 tons of force at the teeth, where that cylinder is located, it may have easily 5x that. No relief valve, something's gotta give.
My Kubota was doing the same thing. It had relief valves changed before I got it .I have to run a solid pin not a greaseable pin. Greaseable pin can bend or break. I watched Andrew's video on changing to a solid pin. I have same machine he has. My thumb is aftermarket not Kubota OEM. Your video has good info. Thanks
You were wondering why the new setup felt so much more natural. If I understand what you said, the left side of the joy stick is controlled by your thumb, so if the thumb activates with your thumb, what could feel more natural than squeezing your thumb, squeezes the thumb. Cool video Jesse!
feel for you. Had something similar. I put a thumb on a new to me Bobcat , sent to the bobcat dealer to set the reliefs correctly. Got it back 3 months later only for the thumb to bend my bucket curl rod like a banana. They said they set the reliefs but apparently did not. They replaced for free.
Jesse - I just discovered your two videos on the thumb. It's great to see your creativity at work, and I see you also attract some expert viewers/commenters. You have taught this 73-year-old a few things. I have done a lot of mechanic work, but never messed with hydraulics. Now you've got me wondering about the thumb on my KX-121... it's way strong, and I always have to worry about shearing a tooth pin on the bucket... definitely need to figure out if it has a relief valve! By the way, I subscribed.
Glad to see you are a Loctite 545 convert! Been using it for years and have never had a single oil, air, hydraulic, water leak on any equipment fitting I used it on. One note though, you are using about two times too much.
Jesse I have been watching your videos from the time you were doing some fabricating in your garage. That was a long time back and you sir have come a long way. I worked before retirement with the railway here in Canada operating heavy equipment. You have a break down on day shift 2 plus hours to fix by two men. same break down on afternoon shift, one man 25 minutes alone. Some can't adapt and go forward as they learn where others like you blast forward with your knowledge. I so enjoy thanks, Jesse.
Hey Jessy, i am a machanic from germany. You need an check valfe from the other line to the hydraulik tank. You will distroy your seals in the zylinder of air beeing pulled in. Always cool videos
I was thinking about this issue. Shouldn't the output from the new relief go through a one way valve to the other side of the cylinder? That way the displaced fluid can be returned to the other side so it doesn't generate a vacuum.
Maybe it is best that he never uses the curl ram to overpower the thumb ram, as that will cause a vacuum in the thumb return side. I suppose the absolute solution is to use even more valves..!
If you put the pressure relief valve on the pressure line before the control valve, it will relieve the pressure on both sides of the cylinder - extension and retraction. I really like your channel
Can't wait to see your ICF house being finished off. That bucket jaw looked like a dinosaur's jaw that was broken. Made a lovely job of it though. Typical with the phome numbers though. I been there ! Nuther great video blog, and very funny in fast motion, thankyou :)
I would never use a bent rod as it will wear out your wipers and seals very quickly as well as stress the heck out of the cylinder housing. Can't believe a reputable shop would have recommended that. The only other option is to straighten the rod (ala Keith Fenner) which takes a bit of experience. You went right with just replacing the rod.
Correct. Bent rod will have stress cracks in it, its hardened like tungsten or close to it. it's unsafe to use again. Guaranteed if it was examined it would be stress cracked
I think you should do something about the other side from the cylinder. If its get pushed in, it generate a vacuum. Naybe connect the one port with a one way valve to the other end. Anyways a good Video.👍
Thanks Jesse as always I loved the video! In the late 1970s I operated a mini excavator in an underground gold mine in northern Ontario Canada, this machine did not have a thumb but I managed to pick-up some hefty rocks to load into a 5 ton ore car, if there is a will, though having a thumb would have made the job easier!
0:44 i'm sorry but the defeated claw coming back in slowly had me dying laughing for a sec, i've been there too just sitting in disbelief that some crazy series of things happened to catastrophically destroy my project
I didn't quite understand why you wanted to put the T in the middle of the hose, which would have required adapters on both sides so that there wouldn't have been much hose left. Couldn't you have just put the T on one end of the hose instead?
When you started clearing the culvert, I thought I seen that new shaft bending again. I guess it was just the camera angle. Had me cussing for you. LOL
I have a Wacker Neuson ET90 and my mechanic can’t figure out if the pressure can be adjusted for the circuit running to the thumb. I thought this could be done for any machine.
Thank you for using hydro/pneum. loctite. Teflon tape is never a good option for hydraulics on npt. That Teflon gets into the system, you got bad valves on your hands. Also, I would think you system is good for 3000psi. Be careful of setting that relief too low. You will build up some heat if you use the grapple alot. I love how many fittings you have. Npt, jic, sae, bspt, inverted flare. Goodness, that is a Frankenstein. Good stuff bud. I sell many of the parts you used. Heavy equipment is its own animal, for sure
Given where youre putting that relief valve, what happens to the 'suction' side hyd curcuit when it goes over relief? Wont there be a serious vacuum on the rod side if the thumb cylinder gets collapsed by curling the bucket? Will that create a negative air spring effect? Cause cavitation? The relief valve solves the overload on one side, but the other does what? I was trying to Google what to do, a crossover relief near the cylinder that both hyd hoses go through before going to the cylinder ports somewhat makes sense, and i see people have done that, but i also read others say that type of relief setup is only meant for hyd motors or multiple single acting cylinders, etc. Because the rod displaces fluid, youd still end up with a bind doing it this way. I hate to be a buzzkill, i know you just put this work into it, but i think the correct way to fix this is to buy a different electronic valve that has the reliefs built into it. Install it, set it to the desired pressure and be done with it. This is the cheapest way i can think of doing it correctly. If someone here knows more about this, id like to hear it. I have a kubota backhoe i added a manual thumb to, and am looking to buy a fullsize hoe ill probably need to plumb for a hyd one soon, so ill need to figure this out eventually on my own.
I see Farmcraft101 commented here, love that channel, too. In his vid where he's diagnosing his hyd trouble with his mini's dozer blade creeping up on its own, he talks about how the rod displaces fluid. At first, i think he didn't know whether it was the piston or the valve controlling it gone bad. He eventually figures it out, that bad cylinder packing seals couldn't explain why the cylinder was creeping up. The reason why was because the cylinder rod displaces fluid, so therefore the cylinder cant move without a net gain/loss of fluid (the volume of rod inside/outside). This should be accounted for when laying out the hyd circuitry to have everything work smoothly, imo.
Just so you know... the valve selector box with the two wires coming off. After you take off the outer sleeve it's just the toilet roll looking thing. It unscrews, may or may not have two tiny flats for like a 1/8" thick shitty wrench. I just use a leather strap wrench. They normally just have 20ish threads and an o ring. For next time 🤙
I just bought a bobcat 334 and it has that style thumb to go on it it doesn't now so anyway I look at it I'm going to need to buy it's on and I was looking at the that kind and I thought it was kind of weak so I'm going to look into the kind that you weld on I think you were calling it the progressive because I can just see pending all kinds of those rods so thanks for showing that that showed me just what I was worried about good video thank you catch you on the next time thanks for sharing
The Bobcat 334 has an excellent thumb design. What it lacks is sufficient length in the actual steel assembly. If you can salvage a thumb from another machine I would do that. The 334 should have the same parts as a 331, 335, 430 and 435, possibly more even. But confirm that for yourself. The main problem with the Bobcats thumb is it's not long enough but with an old cutting edge you can add on about 12" before it will interfere with the bucket cylinder. The 430 I run sometimes has that modification and it makes it a breeze to pick up big logs and rocks. It still can't hurt itself even when its picking up the max weight it hardly will relieve the thumb cylinder. None of the weld on stuff with compare with the OE design but if it's all you can find it's better than no thumb at all
Doesn't the relief valve "dump" should go to the other side of the cylinder? (at least that how mine is installed on my mini and the hydroshop told me to do) . (it move the oil form the extend side to the retract side) because when the valve is not in use: both side are gonna be closed and when relieving the pressure will put the other side of the cylinder in "vacuum."(and won't do much with the control valve closed)..which the "spring back" is showing.
That is how I was originally going to do it but then I thought about having another 4 hoses at the end of the boom or stick and it just seemed like something that brush would catch. It does create a vacuum when that relief valve gets used but it seems to work fine
@@jmuller86 you could have done the T at the connection to your valve block (not necessary to be a the boom/stick)..just like you have done, but dump in the other hose instead of the tank. It's only 1 hose that loop over: you connect the relief valve at an existing connection, loop over the dump and T on the other side
That's a nice fix , the lack of a bypass is a design error I assume the thumb cylinder was just essentially solid and when it was touched by the bucket it had nowhere to go, really that bypass should go to the other side of the cylinder as the opposite applies to the retract, if pushed it would just break the oil column in the retrsct side, interesting
Why did you not get a sub base for the valve with a screw in cartridge relief port. No extra plumbing needed. Look at Daman manifolds. The valve looks like a standard D05 pattern
With a hydraulic press with soft placement parts one does not have to spend over 500 dollars to replace said cylinder. Do NOT stroke the cylinder when in this condition. Otherwise ya'll can straighten such a cylinder and seals will still not leak. Try not to bend quite so far as the brass bushings also screw up. One must keep after control valves to inhibit such errors. Ya'll can unbend such without a cylinder kit. While still just removed from machine and not opened up. I did cylinders a lot years ago not having to disassemble. Measure rod with dial indicator to straighten. If heated rod can be reorganized back to straight condition crystal strength alignment. NEW ROD NOT NECESSARY.
They need to be able to handle a lot of flow when the system pressure is set higher then the relief pressure. Like in this case. I would have done this differently then jesse has done on this excavator. Set the working pressure at the desired pressure, and set the relief valve slightly higher. Like 200 psi or something.
I love how the new welder has EXACTLY the same metal case as the 60 year old welder 🤣🤣 Probably still made on the same machine, just the internals changed (hopefully 👀).
Magister Hydraulic are junk ,they are NOT case hardened , I replaced an existing cylinder , with in 10 minutes the Magister shaft was bent . $500 bucks , shot. I wonder , with the low pressure how use full your thumb will be. You never said , was the old shaft straightened or replaced with a hardened shaft. Great content ! Thanks.
He replaced it and I am sure the new rod was better than the old. Is there a place that sells better cylinders? This place wasnt the cheapest but they seemed to have a big selection of dimensions
If the new rod bends or you want to up the pressure on the relief valve so the thumb doesn’t move, you should go to a larger rod diameter. You might be able to bore out the gland on your existing cylinder and fit a larger diameter rod.
It’s always something, seams like you never catch up. Thanks for making these videos. You rebuild a lot of equipment to use building your house. Now it’s your house, next the shop, more equipment. Don’t forget to save time for your family and God. Enjoy your videos.
Dang Jesse this thumb fought you since the beginning but with your persistence, strong work ethic and the want to do things the rite way you got it done and it works and looks great!! We need more people like you in this world.. men, real men that get things done and care and provide for their family’s, people like you are the backbone of this world. Keep up the great work my friend I really enjoy watching your videos👍👍
That would have gotten some 4 letter words out of me, for sure. I hate fixing something twice! $500 for a new rod is really a pretty reasonable deal. Nice work on this job.
There were some 4 letter words for sure lol But it was my fault because I never should operated it until I could get the bucket to push the thumb
Rats.
Dang.
Damn.
Uh-oh.
Lame.
Darn.
Gosh.
0:56 He says something. I'll leave you to interpret.
oh man, just be thankful you got it on video; and from two angles too! I really appreciate the content so just know all your hard work isn't in vain.
Glad you got it sorted by now, looked really like a "oh nooo!" moment when that rod got bent...
😱👍👍👍
I love your approach to things, because how you talked about things!!!
Man this thumb is giving a lot of grief I hope it stop giving any more grief.
This thumb was a nightmare right from the start, the cool thing I like about you is you never
give up like me, we are stuber and keep going till there is no more options to continue.
Great job on fitting and fixing the thumb it seems to be working really well now and soon cleared that overgrown shrubbery easily and cleanlly 👍
I had the exact same problem with the same brand cylinder on a thumb I built for my excavator. Part of the issue is that the Magister rods are not hardened at all, for safety reasons. I had a new rod made from 2" case hardened shaft and added a 10" restrictor sleeve to limit how far the rod can extend out of the 48" cylinder I'm using, plus a relief valve. All seems good now.
You forgot to do what every operator does when a rod bends: suck it back into the cylinder so it scores the barrel and makes it impossible to get it apart.
they probably think it will straighten it out 🤣 ...good to see you over here though, I watch your video's when I get a chance, good stuff
Jesse
Thanks for the comment about the locktite hydraulic formula. I immediately ordered it and when I had a hydraulic repair today, I was very happy to use it for the first time. Thanks!
A few of my viewers recommended it to me and it has worked very well so I wanted to pass it on
A lot more interesting then what Andew"s has been putting out lately, thank you keep it up.
Great video! It must take incredible pressure to bend a thick steel rod like that!!
Hydraulics can generate an amazing amount of force. Plus, that thumb cylinder has leverage working against it. Bucket curl is usually the strongest function of an excavator, as it equates to break out force (digging force). It might have around 10 tons of force at the teeth, where that cylinder is located, it may have easily 5x that. No relief valve, something's gotta give.
Dude you are so in control of your emotions. I would have been yelling obscenities after it broke. All that work damn.
My Kubota was doing the same thing. It had relief valves changed before I got it .I have to run a solid pin not a greaseable pin. Greaseable pin can bend or break. I watched Andrew's video on changing to a solid pin. I have same machine he has. My thumb is aftermarket not Kubota OEM. Your video has good info. Thanks
You were wondering why the new setup felt so much more natural. If I understand what you said, the left side of the joy stick is controlled by your thumb, so if the thumb activates with your thumb, what could feel more natural than squeezing your thumb, squeezes the thumb. Cool video Jesse!
I think it's also bucket controls, left is pick up dirt, left button is pick up with thumb, then of course right to dump
feel for you. Had something similar. I put a thumb on a new to me Bobcat , sent to the bobcat dealer to set the reliefs correctly. Got it back 3 months later only for the thumb to bend my bucket curl rod like a banana. They said they set the reliefs but apparently did not. They replaced for free.
Love watching you problem solve. You are great at it. Looking forward to your new projects and completing your home.
Good job Jesse. Great to see it fixed and back in action again.
Jesse - I just discovered your two videos on the thumb. It's great to see your creativity at work, and I see you also attract some expert viewers/commenters. You have taught this 73-year-old a few things. I have done a lot of mechanic work, but never messed with hydraulics. Now you've got me wondering about the thumb on my KX-121... it's way strong, and I always have to worry about shearing a tooth pin on the bucket... definitely need to figure out if it has a relief valve! By the way, I subscribed.
Thanks.it should definitely have a relief valve. Moat modern mini excavators do for the aux hydraulics. Definitely should find it and adjust
That was pretty cool that you had that camera on the lift cylinder when it bent, I've never seen that on video before. Great video Jesse!
That’s what I was thinking! Also that reaction was great.
yeah, like 3 cameras on it at the right time! That never happens.
Your Video production is EXCELLENT these days Jesse! 👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to see you are a Loctite 545 convert! Been using it for years and have never had a single oil, air, hydraulic, water leak on any equipment fitting I used it on. One note though, you are using about two times too much.
Jesse I have been watching your videos from the time you were doing some fabricating in your garage.
That was a long time back and you sir have come a long way.
I worked before retirement with the railway here in Canada operating heavy equipment. You have a break down on day shift 2 plus hours to fix by two men. same break down on afternoon shift, one man 25 minutes alone.
Some can't adapt and go forward as they learn where others like you blast forward with your knowledge.
I so enjoy thanks, Jesse.
Hey Jessy, i am a machanic from germany. You need an check valfe from the other line to the hydraulik tank.
You will distroy your seals in the zylinder of air beeing pulled in.
Always cool videos
I was thinking about this issue. Shouldn't the output from the new relief go through a one way valve to the other side of the cylinder? That way the displaced fluid can be returned to the other side so it doesn't generate a vacuum.
Maybe it is best that he never uses the curl ram to overpower the thumb ram, as that will cause a vacuum in the thumb return side. I suppose the absolute solution is to use even more valves..!
That was really cool, riding out there on the stick. Take care.
If you put the pressure relief valve on the pressure line before the control valve, it will relieve the pressure on both sides of the cylinder - extension and retraction. I really like your channel
When that valve shuts off and the button is not pressed, it cuts the flow and the relief valve is bypassed. Thats why the rod got bent
@@jmuller86 Thanks for taking the time to reply and explain why the rod bent.
"Oh jesus...Christmas." 😂 I gotta start using that one.
CLARK GRISWOLD
@@pyronixe U think you hate it now, wait 'til you drive it.
Can't wait to see your ICF house being finished off. That bucket jaw looked like a dinosaur's jaw that was broken. Made a lovely job of it though. Typical with the phome numbers though. I been there ! Nuther great video blog, and very funny in fast motion, thankyou :)
You are constantly working on many things. Make it interesting❤❤❤❤
just nib nosing on the net JESSE and you could pick up spanner wrenches at a good price. great video as always
Very educational thank you I’m not into big machines but I actually found this very interesting!! Thank you for sharing this with me!
great little video thank you sir Jesse
Nice repair Jesse
I would never use a bent rod as it will wear out your wipers and seals very quickly as well as stress the heck out of the cylinder housing. Can't believe a reputable shop would have recommended that. The only other option is to straighten the rod (ala Keith Fenner) which takes a bit of experience. You went right with just replacing the rod.
Correct. Bent rod will have stress cracks in it, its hardened like tungsten or close to it. it's unsafe to use again. Guaranteed if it was examined it would be stress cracked
Good Job Jesse.Czekam na nowe pomysły i projekty Pozdrawiam z Poland.👍👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎😎😎
Nice fixs Jess. 👍👍
I think you should do something about the other side from the cylinder. If its get pushed in, it generate a vacuum. Naybe connect the one port with a one way valve to the other end. Anyways a good Video.👍
Thanks Jesse as always I loved the video! In the late 1970s I operated a mini excavator in an underground gold mine in northern Ontario Canada, this machine did not have a thumb but I managed to pick-up some hefty rocks to load into a 5 ton ore car, if there is a will, though having a thumb would have made the job easier!
The garage will make some headaches go away.
For a moment there it looked like the rod bent again as you where clearing the brush (duh, fish-eye lens).
0:44 i'm sorry but the defeated claw coming back in slowly had me dying laughing for a sec, i've been there too just sitting in disbelief that some crazy series of things happened to catastrophically destroy my project
Thank you, another big job,i learn a lot and thank you for shared the hydraulic experience,awesome 👍👍👍👍
I didn't quite understand why you wanted to put the T in the middle of the hose, which would have required adapters on both sides so that there wouldn't have been much hose left. Couldn't you have just put the T on one end of the hose instead?
"l"ll"
Nice repair Jesse Looks like it works well
Glad you insisted on a new rod. It could never be perfectly straightened and any bend will cause the gland to twist in the cylinder.
yea he was almost trying to convince me it would be ok and I made it very clear that I dont care, I just want a new rod
Love that you are rockin the Amish beard.
Nice job , Really clever indeed for a NY guy .
When you started clearing the culvert, I thought I seen that new shaft bending again. I guess it was just the camera angle. Had me cussing for you. LOL
The power of hydraulics brought sharply into focus. Bummer indeed.
I'm thinking the pressure release would have worked on the thumb retract line. If its the bucket pressure against the thumb that caused the bend?
it would be creating a vacuum on that line so wouldnt work as well
I’m curious, what type of camera do you use attached to the bucket that always seem to stay perfectly horizontal and swivel for a better view?
360 camera
Thanks love the video jesse , lern a lot from you .
that was a crazy bend. I hope you got the pressure set and it doesn't happen again. What a pain
You could turn the elbow on the tank end facing away & route the pipe round maybe?? 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍
I have a Wacker Neuson ET90 and my mechanic can’t figure out if the pressure can be adjusted for the circuit running to the thumb. I thought this could be done for any machine.
GOOD JOB, KEEP SAFE AND WELL...
Pat " Doing the walk of shame" lol
Thank you for using hydro/pneum. loctite. Teflon tape is never a good option for hydraulics on npt. That Teflon gets into the system, you got bad valves on your hands. Also, I would think you system is good for 3000psi. Be careful of setting that relief too low. You will build up some heat if you use the grapple alot. I love how many fittings you have. Npt, jic, sae, bspt, inverted flare. Goodness, that is a Frankenstein. Good stuff bud. I sell many of the parts you used. Heavy equipment is its own animal, for sure
I was surprised to realize that the excavator apparently doesn't have a full system pressure relief valve.
Awesome job 👏 👍
Given where youre putting that relief valve, what happens to the 'suction' side hyd curcuit when it goes over relief? Wont there be a serious vacuum on the rod side if the thumb cylinder gets collapsed by curling the bucket? Will that create a negative air spring effect? Cause cavitation? The relief valve solves the overload on one side, but the other does what?
I was trying to Google what to do, a crossover relief near the cylinder that both hyd hoses go through before going to the cylinder ports somewhat makes sense, and i see people have done that, but i also read others say that type of relief setup is only meant for hyd motors or multiple single acting cylinders, etc. Because the rod displaces fluid, youd still end up with a bind doing it this way.
I hate to be a buzzkill, i know you just put this work into it, but i think the correct way to fix this is to buy a different electronic valve that has the reliefs built into it. Install it, set it to the desired pressure and be done with it. This is the cheapest way i can think of doing it correctly.
If someone here knows more about this, id like to hear it. I have a kubota backhoe i added a manual thumb to, and am looking to buy a fullsize hoe ill probably need to plumb for a hyd one soon, so ill need to figure this out eventually on my own.
I see Farmcraft101 commented here, love that channel, too.
In his vid where he's diagnosing his hyd trouble with his mini's dozer blade creeping up on its own, he talks about how the rod displaces fluid. At first, i think he didn't know whether it was the piston or the valve controlling it gone bad. He eventually figures it out, that bad cylinder packing seals couldn't explain why the cylinder was creeping up. The reason why was because the cylinder rod displaces fluid, so therefore the cylinder cant move without a net gain/loss of fluid (the volume of rod inside/outside).
This should be accounted for when laying out the hyd circuitry to have everything work smoothly, imo.
Just so you know... the valve selector box with the two wires coming off. After you take off the outer sleeve it's just the toilet roll looking thing. It unscrews, may or may not have two tiny flats for like a 1/8" thick shitty wrench. I just use a leather strap wrench. They normally just have 20ish threads and an o ring. For next time 🤙
You obviously have good diagnostic skills, what was the cost of the Relief valve?
Very Good Job My Friend ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I just bought a bobcat 334 and it has that style thumb to go on it it doesn't now so anyway I look at it I'm going to need to buy it's on and I was looking at the that kind and I thought it was kind of weak so I'm going to look into the kind that you weld on I think you were calling it the progressive because I can just see pending all kinds of those rods so thanks for showing that that showed me just what I was worried about good video thank you catch you on the next time thanks for sharing
The Bobcat 334 has an excellent thumb design. What it lacks is sufficient length in the actual steel assembly. If you can salvage a thumb from another machine I would do that. The 334 should have the same parts as a 331, 335, 430 and 435, possibly more even. But confirm that for yourself. The main problem with the Bobcats thumb is it's not long enough but with an old cutting edge you can add on about 12" before it will interfere with the bucket cylinder. The 430 I run sometimes has that modification and it makes it a breeze to pick up big logs and rocks. It still can't hurt itself even when its picking up the max weight it hardly will relieve the thumb cylinder. None of the weld on stuff with compare with the OE design but if it's all you can find it's better than no thumb at all
@@NotSureJoeBauers thanks I need thumb, looking!
Have you started working on the swing function on your man lift?
Doesn't the relief valve "dump" should go to the other side of the cylinder? (at least that how mine is installed on my mini and the hydroshop told me to do) . (it move the oil form the extend side to the retract side) because when the valve is not in use: both side are gonna be closed and when relieving the pressure will put the other side of the cylinder in "vacuum."(and won't do much with the control valve closed)..which the "spring back" is showing.
That is how I was originally going to do it but then I thought about having another 4 hoses at the end of the boom or stick and it just seemed like something that brush would catch. It does create a vacuum when that relief valve gets used but it seems to work fine
@@jmuller86 you could have done the T at the connection to your valve block (not necessary to be a the boom/stick)..just like you have done, but dump in the other hose instead of the tank. It's only 1 hose that loop over: you connect the relief valve at an existing connection, loop over the dump and T on the other side
@@maxpat82 you know I didnt think of that. Is that how yours is? That wouldnt be thay hard to do
@@jmuller86 Mine is a mini 1,5t so no place on the cabin so it's at the boom at a connection yes.
0:34 Ouch, "and it broke just like that - for no reason."
Jesse at 31:12 it looks on the camera like the rod housing/cylinder is bent as well…?
That's a nice fix , the lack of a bypass is a design error I assume the thumb cylinder was just essentially solid and when it was touched by the bucket it had nowhere to go, really that bypass should go to the other side of the cylinder as the opposite applies to the retract, if pushed it would just break the oil column in the retrsct side, interesting
Did you not get a sunburn, welding with no shirt? I seen my brother-in-law do it and was in major pain for a couple of weeks.
I did get a little sun burnt from it yea. I didnt think I was welding long enough to get it but I was wrong.
@@jmuller86 It does not take long, it is like having a mini sun blasting you with UV (A) (B) and (C).
Nice repair.mod. A brief change up from the house build.
Great channel love your channel
Very cool to see. Pretty violent!
Never throw away your old rotors. 😊
Why would you rotation the mount location on the third function valve assembly
looking good!
Nice videos My friend 👏👏👏
you have the biggest tools i've ever seen
i am going to get one of them crescent wrenches just for the loaning to neighbor when they ask to borrow a wrench
Good that you can tackle the repairs yourself save $$. Not including the cost to get the equipment to the repair shop.
Why did you not get a sub base for the valve with a screw in cartridge relief port. No extra plumbing needed. Look at Daman manifolds. The valve looks like a standard D05 pattern
I looked at that option briefly but it was hard to figure out what I needed. all the ones I looked at had no option for relief valve
Hey Jesse, how do you like those summit hydraulic joysticks? Been looking at them for a upgrade on a machine
Yea they work good
With a hydraulic press with soft placement parts one does not have to spend over 500 dollars to replace said cylinder. Do NOT stroke the cylinder when in this condition. Otherwise ya'll can straighten such a cylinder and seals will still not leak. Try not to bend quite so far as the brass bushings also screw up. One must keep after control valves to inhibit such errors. Ya'll can unbend such without a cylinder kit. While still just removed from machine and not opened up. I did cylinders a lot years ago not having to disassemble. Measure rod with dial indicator to straighten. If heated rod can be reorganized back to straight condition crystal strength alignment. NEW ROD NOT NECESSARY.
Reliefs don't need to move a lot of volume they just open another passage which greatly reduces pressure.
They need to be able to handle a lot of flow when the system pressure is set higher then the relief pressure. Like in this case. I would have done this differently then jesse has done on this excavator. Set the working pressure at the desired pressure, and set the relief valve slightly higher. Like 200 psi or something.
👍 OUCH !!! that one stings
that has to suck seeing that transpire !wrong phone number BAaaaaaa what is wrong with the world ! Good job you were not under contract for a job !
I just watched the video of you putting that Thumb on, then youtube shows me this, Wow that thing didn't bend slow either, sheesh.
Another great video
I love how the new welder has EXACTLY the same metal case as the 60 year old welder 🤣🤣
Probably still made on the same machine, just the internals changed (hopefully 👀).
It's amazing how easily it broke itself. Just bent a 2" 3"? Solid steel bar like it's nothing.
yep, 2" of solid steel. but the rod on the bucket cylinder is like 2 3/4" so the weakest one gets bent first
The video messes with my eyes when u was clearing the brush out 🙄😂
Why do you need to be able to push the thumb with the bucket?
When I bent a rod the hydraulic repair store told me there are Cadillac vs you go rods. I went with the Cadillac never had another problem.
great vid
Good video.
Magister Hydraulic are junk ,they are NOT case hardened , I replaced an existing cylinder , with in 10 minutes the Magister shaft was bent . $500 bucks , shot. I wonder , with the low pressure how use full your thumb will be. You never said , was the old shaft straightened or replaced with a hardened shaft. Great content ! Thanks.
He replaced it and I am sure the new rod was better than the old. Is there a place that sells better cylinders? This place wasnt the cheapest but they seemed to have a big selection of dimensions
If the new rod bends or you want to up the pressure on the relief valve so the thumb doesn’t move, you should go to a larger rod diameter.
You might be able to bore out the gland on your existing cylinder and fit a larger diameter rod.
damn it jim
Great video thankyou!!!!!!