Building a Micro Mill Part VII
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- Опубликовано: 4 ноя 2024
- I am nearing completion of this project, although there is still a lot to do. Finally chips.. It is alive!
Who has a nice solution for the housing of the two switches, the speed knob and the display?
Music:
"Flower Duet" from Lakmé by Léo Delibes
"Spiegel im Spiegel" by Arvo Pärt
It has been a wonderful experience, following this series of building the Micro MILL.
Thank you,
philip, from the Great Pacific NorthWET, Oregon Division, USA
The Flower Duet! I'm incredibly happy to see this song being used!
It's such a beautiful duet!
When watching with x2 speed it makes my ears bleed
@@sitlar Then don't watch it that way.
@Michel-Uphoff the videos are so good that I'm ready to go through the bleeding
@@Michel-Uphoff, so true, like telling your Eye Doctor it HURTS my eyes, when I drink my Tea . . . .
Take the SPOON out of your Tea Cup!
Just amazing. It’s been a joy to follow this project from start to finish. Thank you!
desperately needs a 3 axis DRO with a lot of digits !!! fabulous work by a master craftsman !!! Bravo ! best regards Steve
Wonderful workmanship Michel & outstanding test results, Congrats!!
Thanks Colin 🙂
PRACHTIG Michel, ik vind vooral hoe je dingen aanpakt. Dank voor het delen....
Dankjewel John. 🙂
Very good so far! Very, very good. Love the way you overcame eccentricity in the collet chuck, and the extra bearing for the spindle is a good idea. Probably essential as a matter of fact. Thanks for sharing Michel, very enjoyable!
P.S: music is great as usual!
Thank you!
It's alive alright, super micro mill you made yourself and the quality you show us, just so precise.
Thank you for sharing this quality work of yours with us here. 👍💪✌
It's a pleasure to share it.
@Michel-Uphoff 🙏
super satisfying to see that little machine running !
You couldn't have seen the big fat smile on my face, but oh boy, was there one!
Very good results. When you have worked through your list of issues, can we look forward to a series of accessories of appropriate scale? Clamping set, dividing head, rotary table, etc?
I'm not making any promises, but I do have it in mind to make a set of auxiliary tools for this little one.
I have to say Im very impressed with your micro mill, Michel. Even more impressed when I think about the tolerances you've cleared and what machinery you have available to achieve those tolerances. I know the challenges I face on modern CNC mills and you've gone and made this on small-ish hobby machines - they seem more capable than I ever thought but Im sure it also comes down to your technique and skills 🤗
Also, just pause the video at 15:35
Thats a literal expert in action! Beautiful 😘
Thanks (blush)
I would call your current mill a micromill, the one you have made would best be described as a nano mill 😂. Excellent work as always 👍
@@paulbyerlee2529 Maybe some day I will make a pico mill with it.
@@Michel-Uphoff love that idea
I need a micro accurate drill press like this, great work👏👏👏
A few week patience and there will be drawings, then you could try to build one yourself.
It’s really incredible 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Congratulations 👏👏👏 another masterpiece ❤❤❤
Thank you!
This has been a fantastic build. It appears to be more accurate than my mini mill. Now it’s time for you to build a micro lathe, I could really use a micro lathe. An I.C engine such as the Webster or 6 cycle Oddball. All in all, have some great fun with the little machine and then ship it to me. 😊
😂
Very nice work sir. Great video.
Thank you
cool
Nice Video perfect
Very very nice work Michel! Haben Sie sehr gut gemacht!
Just a question, the spindle extension (ER16-chuck) is held with a single set screw against the spindle shaft? Is it enough to withstand vibrations and load over time?
Thank you 🙂
Yes I think so. It's very tight. And if I'm wrong I will add another one.
Grinding the spindle taper on-site was beautifully done ❤, i'm wondering if you have found the 16mm ID bearing for spindle or you took the spindle to 15mm on the lathe and used standard bearing🎉.
Where the chuck sits in the bearing, it was 22mm in diameter. I reduced that to the 17mm needed for the bearing. That was not clear in the video because I forgot to record this machining. In the scene right after tightening the chuck on the mandrel, you see suddenly a completely machined chuck.
@Michel-Uphoff thanks for answering, i'd never guessed that.
Thanks for the build and hope it satisfied all your criteria and needs, i'm sure you went through alot mental and physical work.
I'm wondering if you are going through the route of hardening the ways and column and grind it in the future.
@@abdelrahmanelmasry9699 No, I won't do that. It is made of run of the mill cold rolled steel. It's not hardenable, however I could case harden it, if I had a big enough oven for it. But even then I wouldn't do it, because this steel would warp like crazy when heated that much.
Regarding the housing for the knob & switches: How about something that is magnetic? Something you can attach to the column? That way you're more flexible with regards to positioning. Or alternatively some quick release mechanism. But I think the column is generally a good place. I think somebody else asked this in a previous video, but would you generally recommend the ff 500 bl? Were all the milled parts machined on the ff 500? And what is the maximum shank diameter? It's 13mm right? Thanks a lot in advance. I will watch this video in full extent later today with a cold beverage :)
A magnetic box is indeed one of the possibilities I'm pondering about.
The ff 500/BL is a beautiful, well-functioning and accurately made machine. But it also has a few weak points. In particular the headstock is in my opinion of inferior design. I have made a few videos about this machine and some improvements. I hope you have seen them?
As you can see from my videos, there is more possible with this machine than meets the eye. If you need a precise machine of small size and weight (45 Kg), I think there is no alternative that is better.
@@Michel-Uphoff Thank you. Yes, I have seen those videos. Probably I will watch them again. Maybe I missed something. My question about the shank size is probably something I should ask Google... but it seems the maximum for ER20 is 13 millimeters. There seem a few oversize collets available but I haven't heard good things about them so I am doubtful about their practical usability. Thank you for your reply!
@@bastian6173 Yes 13 mm with an oversize collet is the max. I have no problems with that collet at all, but have to say I don't use it often.
Now time to turn it to cnc :)
Why should I do that?
@@Michel-Uphoff Well, it's pretty useful to make complex shapes, with interpolation you can save the need for various fixtures, It would increase the number of operation you can do.
Since it's small the parts involved aren't that expensive 3 closed loop steppers, 3 ballscrews, 3 endstops and an electronic board to interface with linux cnc, for example mesa card, or an old pc with the parallel port and a cheap breakout board with opto-isolators.
Estás operaciones de ejecución con tanta precisión son hoy en día un arte que la vieja escuela deja a todos los que practicamos Este deporte tan divertido y apasionado como la propia fabricación de elementos que nacen del ingenio y dedicación. Soy fan de sus videos . Saludos.
@@Animatronicsu Fact. Adding numerical control is much less demanding. It doesn't require high rigidity because you can do 100 passes with 0.1mm cuts. As you said, it gives you the ability to do circles, curves, engravings, etc.
@@Animatronicsu Yes, I know. But I don't need that at all. I can really do without the complex shapes, which in my opinion are the only good reason to want to use a CNC as a hobby. Series production would be another reason, but that is not relevant here. I simply prefer turning a hand wheel to tapping data on a keyboard.
But what is the point of such material savings for such a small machine? Both the machine column and the base and the spindle mount could be an order of magnitude more massive and, accordingly, rigid. And all this without a significant increase in cost and the increase in the space occupied by the machine.
I didn't do any material savings. These are the dimensions and design I had in mind from the beginning, without paying any attention to the costs. It seems to me to be a fairly balanced whole, considering that we are talking about a micro mill here. The only thing I would change, in retrospect, is the column, which is now 40x40mm. I could have made it 50x50mm without any further design changes and that would make the column even more rigid. Furthermore, as mentioned in the video, I would not make the quill like this anymore. In fact, I already have an improved design ready for that, which I will send along with the drawings.
@ 4:03, I get confused looking at your clock 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Don't look at the clock... Look at the measurements. 😉
I think the spindle has too small toque. Why you didn't make a transmission? You could make a solid spindle head and a small motor with a belt drive transmission. It would be a more robust solution and would not complicate production too much compared to the your version of spindle.
There is enough torque, no transmission needed. See previous videos in this series.
@@Michel-Uphoff 16:55 i'm hearing that the mill almost stopped. And 2000 rpm for 10mm mill isn't too much? Or for carbide mill it is ok? In my experience high rpm with hss mills causes quick wear of it. But what about carbide?
@@adfy2307 The mill didn't stop, the sound changed. The cutting speed for this 10 mm carbide mill at 2k rpm is: 3.14*0.01*2000= 63 meter per minute. That's in fact reasonably slow. The cutting speed for carbide is between 50 and 150 meter per minute.
@@Michel-Uphoff ok, thanks for explaining.