Holy smokes, how have you only got under 4000 subs?? Genuinely thought this was a 100k+ channel. So glad this popped up on my feed. Amazing production and everything else, as well as fantastic execution. You've gained a subscriber, good sir.
Thanks very much! I’ve been using it a bit and it’s been a really handy tool. I’m planning a pt 2 to this video working on the cars themselves, if you liked this one, be sure to check it out!
As a common practice in my daily life of a machinist, try adding a magnet either on the locating flat or the butt end of the boring bar to reduce vibration and chatter. I’ve found it can almost completely remove chatter even without a special holder. Works wonders try it out!
I have heard that since making the video, it definitely sounds like one of “tricks of the trade” things! I’ll definitely be giving it a go next time I bore something, thanks for the tip!
It definitely could! I don’t have coolant set up on my lathe at the moment, but I have an upcoming project that I’ll need it for , so I’ll probably modify these to suit. Thanks for the idea!
Thankyou! I do probably need to slow down the rpm a little and try and cut deeper on 4140, I was on the skinny edge of depth of cut for those inserts which definitely dosent help. But thanks for the advice, I’ll give it a go!
Get rid of the compound slide, eliminating most of the flex from the overhang will help. Get solid carbide boring bar holders for your insert type, even the cheap import ones these days are plenty good.
Funny but I never had much trouble with the conventional set-up on a lathe. Mind you, with a boring bar it is exceedingly important that the cutting edge is at the lathe centre height or very slightly above same. Also, gibs need to be adjusted for minimum clearance and slides not used should be locked in position.
Agreed, I've been guilty of not locking the slides in use before, and spent too long scratching my head as to why things aren't going the way they should. Something I do like about this sleeve setup that I didn't really think about is that I can rotate the bar slightly to fine tune the angle that the cutting tip meets the bore, which does seem to help a little with guiding chips away from the cut a little better
Making a solid mount toolpost is something I've been thinking about a lot. I do use the compound angle a lot for non traditional reasons, as I'm trying to make the best videos I can, sometimes the slide is in the way and rotating it a little does help. But I'm sure it would make a massive rigidity upgrade. Trying some carbide shanked bars is on my list of things to do, and maybe try and compare them a little, but its all money 😂 I'm sure ill get to it one day, thanks for checking out the video!
btw to reduse some of the flex you can bor/drill out the most of the core of the boring bar and press/heatshrink a tungston carbide bar into the hole that you drilled ( and if you wanna be super sure that it have -1% chance of getting out agen you can solder/brace it at the end and the small went hole that you probably also gonna drill down at the head / insert end that you drilled to make sure that the carbide bar could get all the way to the bottom without a air pocket ) i done that a few times
That’s a cool idea! Carbide round stock can be pretty cheap, that’s a great cost effective idea, I might just have to use that one! Appreciate the tip!
@@nomadhandcrafted your welcome. i gladly give you as many tips as i can provide with my experiance. btw i dont have instgram so cant send the drawings of a burnishing tool on instagram
Thanks very much! I’ve never tried anything with that much relief, what’s the lifespan like? I’ve got some ccmt, and I do like them, but my cheapness has trouble getting past the extra corners of neutral inserts
Lifespan.... minutes. Or a whole project. It depends if you are pushing them hard or just finish cutting. They are designed for aluminum and other non ferrous metals. I buy them by the 100 from aliexpress. I abuse them and toss them into my carbide bin for later use or recycle. For what I pay, I dont mind. Now, if I was buying name brand @ 4 to 8$ a piece. I would be hesitant to play around. Food for thought.
Might be worth a look! I usually try to stick to the brand names, hence the fear of burning them up 😂 but might be worth a try next time I grab some stuff on AliExpress, thanks I’ll try it out!
Good video, the split holder style you made is the most rigid for clamping boring bars. You need to take a deep enough cut to get the chip breaker geometry to work, a good tool supplier will have detailed cutting information for their inserts. Whether the machine is able to reproduce the recommendations is a different matter! Slot drills and end mills do not produce a flat bottom counterbore for a capscrew to sit against, they have clearance angles on the front to allow them to cut properly. I would also recommend to use spotting drills to start a drilling operation instead of a centre drill, centre drills can be fragile and if you are not using them to create a centre then its not really worth it.
Thankyou! The inserts I have at the minute are the no name jobs that come with the bars , just cheapo ones, but I’ll replace them with brand name ones when I next muster up the courage to do a carbide order 😂 I tried taking a deeper cut while I was filming, and they really didn’t want any part of it 😂 I’m full of excuse apparently today, but I do agree on the centre drill part as well, I managed to ruin my last one on a little non filmed job, and am waiting for some new ones to rock up, so I just used what I had. But I appreciate you taking the time for the feedback!
If you're interested in compliant mechanisms like this for the lathe and you're having trouble with parting blades getting stuck (who doesn't), you may be interested in a spring parting blade holder. It's a nice project on the mill, NBR Works has a great video on it. Not sure it's as good as a rear parting toolpost or a solid toolpost, but it's very cool.
I have seen that video, I really love that idea, but also don't want to straight steal someone else and haven't thought of a way to make it unique to me. But he is very clever. Appreciate the sub!
Nice project 👍😀 Is it a good idea for making the sleeve that is holding the boring bar also clamping ?... So when the toolholder clamps down it at the same time clamps the sleeve tight around the boring bar ?... If you want better chips coming off the 4140 take a deeper cut and up the feed rate or lower the rpm . And try to push the insert to its maximum range or intended range. It looks like your speed and feed are not high enough judging by the birds nest. Also use a insert with a bigger nose radius can be helpful.
I've literally been machining some 4140 today and tried exactly what you have above, it looks like I've had a bit too much rpm and not enough depth of cut, but surely ill forget how I had it set up before I film some more 😂😂😂 and with the sleeve, it did cross my mind, but I was worried with such a small bar that I would have trouble compressing the sleeve around such a small hole in the Centre, but would defiantly give it a go on a bigger bar.
Nice! : ) Looks to me like your cutoff tool may be damaged below the end of the insert. Hard to tell from the freeze frame. But if so, might be the source of your trouble.
You are right on the money, I found it after the video, there was a bit of a dag hanging off the side under the insert, I cleaned it up and it seems fine now, well until it decided not to be 😂 but thanks for checking it out! Appreciate the help!
Yeah I definitely messed that up when filming and didn’t think about it until after I parted them off, I did debur them heavily by hand in the cleanup, but should have chamfered them 😂 thanks for checking it out!
@@nomadhandcrafted for one thing, quite frankly they are not doing anything in this application. You already know it doesn't make a bit of difference with or without them. 🤷♂️. It is still a very nice boring bar set up. Though you can buy basically the same thing off the shelf... But I digress. Its still very nice. Secondly in a pressure application, you want just enough of an edge break to be able to safely install the o-ring without cutting it. When pressure is applied, you don't want it to extrude itself into the void left by a heavy chamfer.
Hmm I wouldn’t say I “know” that. The theory makes sense in my head, but as to how much difference that actually makes, I honestly don’t know. I do know that if I hard mount one of these bars in a tool holder, it screams, but in the holder it dosent as much. But that could also simply be a product of better tool holding and mass. But that makes sense with the grooves! Something I definitely did not know, Thankyou!
I’m not sure exactly where your at, but buying used can also be a good option for cost, if you have machinery auctions around you, and your patient, it’s pretty amazing what you can pick up for the right money!
Thanks very much! He makes great content, I hope to be able to make videos as good one day! I can’t see the holder move, but I did bump the bar into centre to stop it from running at the base of the hole. Appreciate you checking it out!
You need to make you a winky workshop cut off tool you will love it. They work great and they use high-speed steel and I’ve never had a problem on a smaller lathe.
I've been mulling over the NBR works version on the Winky's spring parting tool, I really love that thing and is defiantly on the list but would love to try and make a version that's unique to me, but surely will come up with something someday. but I appreciate the tip!
We built speaker cabs many years ago fibergass over thin ply....this broke up resonance of the panels....what about carbon fiber? Tube with cf fill? Hmmm...
Also an interesting thought, I have had brushes with car audio stuff in my life and know exactly what you mean, I’m not sure how you would integrate it into something like this, but an interesting thought…
@nomadhandcrafted i think i can make one with a tube packed with plain glass fiber and epoxy..i have a chatter issue with my lathe partly from out of balance motor or dinged pulley. I think ill try this i haven't done much boring because of this
Really interesting thanks! May i ask what mill and what lathe you use? I’m looking to expand my capabilities but I only have a fairly small (very old) lathe at present. Thanks!
Of course! I’m not sure where in the world you are, but I’m Australian if you couldn’t pick it 😂 both of my machines are hafco brand, the mill is a HM47B and the lathe is a AL-320g of if I had my time over I would probably look at a different lathe to the one I purchased (just due to features and some annoyances with the specific model) no a build quality thing, but in general I’m pretty happy for the money. I’m not 100% sure, but these machines look suspiciously similar to the precision Matthews machines I see in other videos if that means anything and are both Taiwanese made👍 thanks for checking it out!
Nice project.but I don’t see how the compressed o-rings affect anything. I’ve designed a lot of anti vibration mounts and I do a fair amount of boring on my lathe. When you tighten against rubber, it reduces the amount of vibration. But when you clamp metal to metal, even with those tiny o-rings, you’re mechanically shorting out the rubber 0-rings. I’d have to look at commercial damped bar holders to see exactly how they function, but I really can’t see an advantage here.
That’s fair, I do get where your coming from, but at the very least I’m hoping that having dissimilar materials in the mount, that the Orings might “disrupt “ the frequency travelling through the part,l to some extent even though there are steel mating surfaces. The commercial ones are a lot more complex, and have a pocket with some sort of oil and a pair of “tuning” forks inside them on a rubber mount, and I’m led to believe they are tuned to a specific sfm range to work properly. Definitely not the same thing here, but an attempt to try and absorb a little resonance 👍 thanks for checking it out
@ I have a record tone ARM, made by Technics, in the late 1980. It’s also an anti vibration model, with interchangeable wands. The counterweight is complex, using springs, magnets and rubber for damping. You can adjust the damping a bit to account for different cartridge compliance. But metal against metal is going to eliminate any possible effect of the rubber. I could make some suggestion that may help, but then it would become comp,ex. And honestly, other than for extremely precise work, I don’t see it making g a difference. But, the holder is very nicely made and will obviously work well.
That sounds like a really interesting bit of kit! I find it fascinating, but at the same time, defiantly something that's way over my head 😂 but I do appreciate the feedback, thanks for checking it out!
Maybe one idea to try: dissimilar metals. Make a thin sleeve of a compliant metal like copper or lead (not something springy like stainless or brass), put it around your bar holder and clamp the lot.
That is a cool idea! a copper sleeve pressed over the shaft might have a better effect that what i tried here. I did originally want to make the sleeves from cast iron, as the higher carbon is supposed to be a natural dampener, but wasn't something I could get together materials wise for this one, but a denser "sleeve" would be a cool idea!
7:41 you can drill these after you made the slot, than you can drill as deep to actually countersink the thread with the tip of the drill ;-) Nice video though!
Hey! I've watched your videos for years! I really appreciate the content you make, it's always a great watch! And thanks, I did think of it at the time but didn't know if the downward pressure of the drill would make it go off center, but after actually clamping it, I'm sure it wouldn't move. Appreciate the comment!
Too much overhang when parting. The general thesis is that parting and grooving operations should be preformed, as close to the chuck-jaws as possible. The last parting operation was reasonably correct.
poor man boring bar wont be the main piece with a hole in it for the cutting tool and m6 screw can be mounted directly? i mean less pars less vibration. also at this point you can go with m8 or m10 screw for even less vibration.
I did want to be able to make different sleeves for different sized bars in the future, the 2 I have are both 8mm that I used in the video, but I did make a couple more blanks in case I want to go smaller or bigger, but it would definitely help with rigidity!
I was wandering how your flycutter works tbh :D Button insert works here? On 7:55 you did that slide move intentionally? Sometimes I see this make by accident, but in this case looks really cool :D There are tables what grooves should be for certain oring and type of movement/sealing. Personally I like red silicone-based orings, they are... maybe not better, but different. I believe that in machine workshop it isn't relevant, but they have better chemical resistance and lifespan compared to standard ones. There are kind of springloaded parting tools, as far as I know, they are more forgiving and durable, maybe good idea for next project? :D That cut with saw are clever. I don't know what forces are involved, but wouldn't be a little better to cut this with ball nose? Sharp corners concentrate stress in small area. I didn't design anything in steel for years, so I don't know if it's relevant in this case
Haha yeah it actually did ok on this one, I’ve really had mixed results on finishes, but I do have a powerfeed now, and it helps a heap! I would like to spend some time diving into different inserts and try and find which is best in that application, but haven’t thought of a good way to present that yet 😂 And I didn’t! That happens when the fluid head of a tri pod is still levelling out when you push record on the camera, and I usually do cut it them out, but i thought on this one it kinda looked cool so I left it in 😂 I’m definitely no O ring expert, but I’m guessing that silicon ones would last a heap longer if it were something needed, the ones I used for this was just some cheapo Bunnings set that I could pick up on the weekend 😂 And I did recently see a video of the coolest spring loaded parting tool I’ve seen, but I have no idea if it’s within my ability to make, but it keeps me up at night 😂 I did find I had a wicked burr on the side of the parting tool from a previous insert breakage that seemed to be sitting a little wider than the slot, and life did get better for me after cleaning it up, so maybe it was grabbing? Appreciate you checking out the video 🙏🙏
Haha that is a cool idea, I’ve also gotten a couple of comments about using a magnet on the end of the bar, apparently it works wonders as well, I’ll definitely be trying them both out! Thanks for the tip!
I thought that a magnet place on the back of the boring bar significantly reduced vibration and chatter. Or maybe it just gets rid of that screeching sound.
Well there you go; I haven't heard that one before. Do have some magnets that would fit on my bigger boring bar, I might just have to try that next time I use it. Thanks for the tip!
That is a really nice and sturdy boring bar holder you made! However, I do not see the need for the Orings or the set screws on the adapter sleeve. I split my adapter sleeves so that the clamping screws on the holder also compressed the sleeve to hold the boring bar. The sleeve is given one through slot and 3 or more partial depth radial slots for radial flexibility. If the boring bar is short such as those for a boring head, simply tighten the clamping screws that engage the bar length. I don't want to start a flaming war but those pump-style tool posts really suck. I believe that much vibration is due to that miserable design. Back in the early 1990's I built a complete QCTP tool post and 24 tool holders because the cost at that time was too high for me to consider. I analyzed different designs and decided on the dove tail type but made sure that the clamping arrangement pulled the tool holder tightly into the 4 surfaces of the dove tail, with the clamp pull towards the back away from the lathe centre line. This is a rock solid design following sound principles of tool and machine design. The pump-style tool post you have pushes the tool holder away from the tool post such that only 2 of the dove tail surfaces locate and hold the tool holder. This is a fundamentally erroneous design and no tool designer worth the name would design such a device. Another source of problems is clamping the boring bar into a holder that is really meant for square section tooling. Finally, the height adjustment of the boring bar cutting edge is really important. For a boring bar the cutting edge must be on the centre line of the lathe or very slightly above it. Note that this is opposite to the OD turning tool which is set to the centre line or very slightly below it. Turning small diameters will demonstrate the need for this. Nice video presentation, and good luck!
The toolpost thing has definitely been on my mind, it might be ignorant, but exactly what your talking about didn’t actually dawn on me that much until I was making this video and I was test fitting the dovetail off camera. Looking at my purchased holders and also the one I made, I completely agree a wedge lock would be the way to go, it’s definitely on my “list of things to change” but it’s also a long list 😂 as I’m sure we all have. Thanks for checking out the video!
Yeah, good call on the PISTON STYLE toolpost... Had me wondering for a damn minute what the hell you were talkin` bout, but nevermind that... Yeah, who the fuck ever thought that that is a decent design? I mean, you can literally cut two slanted walls and a ravine between them with a plunger(piston also, but a sensible one) that forces the holder against the slant walls and against the flat of the ravine(if machined damn well to seat against 2 slant walls and hit the flat at proper torque...), even if it just sits against the slant walls - it would have 10x the rigidity when compared to the push-against dovetail type... I have a custom qctp design on paper that i drew up some time ago, but i`ll need to sort my shit out before starting such a project... A sliding dovetail, but not the conventional internal thread actuated sliding dovetail, something a bit more radical - to put it thusly... Also designed to have full contact on both the dovetails and the flats, but not akin to Aloris style... I`ll be glad to post it online when i get around to it, but as said, for now it`s just on paper... Shit needs to be hardened, ground, lapped in some places, honed in others, not a cheap piece should such a thing be put on the market, but alas, this is not the good old days, such quality is exclusively custom demand generated, not broadly available... It would be quite pornographic to make it out of good toolsteel - the forming dies and gears alloy grade like Merilo steel or other similar chisel steels for cold working, with the holders being spring-steel, hardened and heat oxide coloured at 283celsius(a majestic royal purple) which would leave them quite hard too, but not too brittle... The toolpost could even be plasma nitrided along with hardening to induce an even harder layer of ``case hardening`` on the outside, but now that is just cognitive erotica... res non verba is what it`s all about in the world of machining... well, res con verba - given that we are not talking a production shop but a modern ``online edu-tainer`` workshop...
@@camillosteuss I made my QCTP and 24 tool holders in the early 1990's and I did not harden the bits and pieces. For use in a home work shop where 1 or perhaps 2 people use the equipment this would be acceptable. I black oxide finished mine and that oxide is just beginning to wear off after 30 years of usage.
I see you have a small carbide boring bar already. You know that there are replaceable tip solid carbide composite boring bars available. When it comes to chatter control they are the best. Costly but do a very nice job. Solid bar and the end is usally brazed to it. Unless you are using salvaged materials it may be worth considering using Cast iron for some of the components. In compression it is as strong as anything else and it is a lot easier to machine. The boring Bar sleve for example being an ideal candidate. Finally about O rings. Capable of being used in many ways, available in many materials and hardnesses. If you are building something to take the guess work out of grove sizes and even using a suitable material or hardness O ring look up the Parker O ring Manual. Info for static, dynamic and just about any application you could think of. It has loads of information that most will never use but worth a look.
It's funny, I just responded to another comment like this! Cast iron was the original plan for the sleeve, but I didn't have any that was easily accessible, but it defiantly would have helped with the dampening qualities. I do think for the solid carbide bars, I'll try some solid carbide cheaper import ones in the future, and maybe revisit this video for a bit of a comparison. But thanks for the feedback, appreciate you checking it out!
Let me give you a little bit of advice that I have learned in my first few years of my 20 yr machinist career, reduce your tool stick out and material stick out with home machines for the non commercial machine they have poor rigidity because of lack of mass and larger tolerance of the machine if you bring everything in to where the mass of the machine is the larger tolerance of the machine are not as noticeable more you support the pcs (live center) the part can't move rigidity is most important in a home shop even more than sharp new cutters and coolant it leaves a better finish and it makes tooling life go up and if not using it because it is messy then probably shouldn't be machining that's normal water soluble cooling in a squeeze bottle that sends a tiny stream from tip of straw bent 90° and make sure your square part of the caliper jaw doesn't enter round hole wasn't sure if you did that the first hole I might be blind didn't go back and watch try what I said and then comment about it am I full of shit or giving you some constructive criticism to make you a better machinist or I could give you the teaching method my elders 20yrs age definitely get band for bullying on RUclips 😂😂
Nah that’s not bullying I have gotten and will probably get much worse 😂 As for the stick out and coolant, it’s not a good answer, but I’m mostly doing it to try and be able to film better. I do want to have a play with mist coolant, but the “health” things your hear about it has me a little hesitant. And the caliper in a round hole thing, you are right, I guess I was just trying to show the bore went straight through, but I still have a tonne to learn about all these processes, hopefully I get better with time 😂 but I appreciate the feedback 👍👍
A shop I worked in made sleeves similar to the ones you made they used 12l14 supposed to help with the vibration don't know for sure that's just what they said
I could be really wrong here, but I think that the "heavy metal" boring bars you see are made from 12L14 as the lead content changes the density for the bar material which is supposed to help dampening. Which is something I do want to try making one day, and maybe see how they stand up against solid carbide. I could be completely wrong on the above, but I have heard something similar. I do know that it has a lower tensile strength which might affect flex, but worth having a play with I think! Thanks for checking it out!
if you care that much about your surface finish maybe buy or make a faceing burnishing tool then. personally i would make one myself. that way i can use some of the shanks from broken endmills i have laying around as more then just stop pins if you want i can send you the 3d drawing's i made of one
It’s something I’ve never tried! I’ve seen a few of them pop up on social media etc, but never gotten around to trying it. Do you need to use a lot of pressure for them to work? I’ll never say no to a drawing 😂
@@nomadhandcrafted well when i used a diamind one for a lathe we told it press wotj 0.05mm ( id was 35.55mm and was told to go to 35.6mm . and it turned out to be 35.58mm ) but your machine should easily be able to handle it . maybe just in two passes need a mail address to send the drawing to btw
www.lprtoolmakers.com.au/indexable-carbide-insert-dovetail-cutters-1-2-to-1-3-8-od-range/ I'm pretty sure this is where I got mine, in the 1"x1/2" variety
Thankyou, well I do appreciate it, he is a really clever guy and makes some interesting stuff, but it’s a journey, hopefully one day I get there too. I’m glad you like it!
I did play around a bit with speed when doing some test cuts but found I got more rubbing, but I’ll play around with it a little more in the coming weeks, thanks for the tip 👍
The bottom "insert" is actually a solid carbide shim. the larger, higher quality tool holders use them. Gives the insert a rock solid foundation to sit on, some brands offer them in different thicknesses to adjust cutting height (more applicable to CNC machines) and if you crash the insert hard, hopefully it just damages the shim and the insert and not the tool holder.
I haven been working on the impression that I shouldn't have to use it as much with a carbide tool over HSS, but I have been back to using it since I filmed this video and haven't broken another insert, so you are probably right, I did also find some damage on my parting holder that defiantly wasn't helping at the time. 😂or maybe I've just been holding my tongue right since then.
I didn’t worry too much about going on the inside of the sleeve as the boring bars themselves have quite large flats, so I wouldn’t have gotten much contact all around the bar. But thanks for checking it out!
I did like the video. I also subscribed to your videos all of them.. Thank you for adding the voice after video. I would of liked to see a set of plans. I like to make stuff with FreeCad and this would be a great exercise. I also have a lathe and a mill might make this if I do I will make a set of drawings. Keep up the great work and I believe I will take a look at another one of your videos.
Thanks very much! I am slowly learning how to use cad software, but it’s a steep learning curve for me. I can do it, but it takes a really long time, I hope to be able to offer plans one day, but unfortunately at the moment it’s not something I can fit into my schedule. But I hope to able to do that soon 👍 thanks for checking it out!
@@nomadhandcrafted Thank you for your reply. I use Frecad and there are many videos on how to use the program and the best thing is it is free. The program is as good if not better than Fusion 360 and I was a die hard Fusion person until the price got crazy high.
Oh for sure! I have a solidworks subscription, and there is a huge amount of training online for it, I guess I’m just making excuses but I struggle to find a good chunk of time to work on it 😂 but I just need to make the time
you mentioned at the end that you have trouble with depth of cut well I am a student Mechanical engineering and I might know some thing that can help you with that a=Pc/(π x 1000 x Kc1.1 x d x n x f^(1-∊)) a - cut depth (mm) Pc - motor capacitie (watt) Kc1.1 - allowed cutting force per mm^2 acording to Taylor (N/mm^2) d - diameter of the piece (mm) n - revolutions/min (1/min) f - feed (mm/rev) ∊ - exponent in the cutting force equation accoding to Taylor please keep in mind that there is a real possablitie that I made a mistake so if your gut fealing tels you that this not good please listen to that
ha-ha appreciate the help. I do try and stick within the manufacturer specs on the inserts for cutting speeds, but 4140 specifically seems to be a bit outside of spec for me, maybe a lack of horsepower or rigidity. But I've been machining some today, and slowing my rpm a little and taking deeper cuts seems to have helped. I will try this though, I've never seen the Kc1.1 reference before, ill look it up! But appreciate the help!
Ah, that was just the shot of me breaking the parting tool from later in the video, it probably didn’t line up particularly well with what I was saying but fair call, thanks for the feedback
Wholy sh.....what the f.....BRUH..... ....Okay, I have been informed is still illegal to do the things Id like to do. But can someone with actual machining experience explain to this person all the ways he A) made his life harder, and B) is going to loose skin if hes lucky, or end up wrapped around a spindle if hes not, please? I cant....Ill get too....mean....and use the naughty not nice words....
Holy smokes, how have you only got under 4000 subs?? Genuinely thought this was a 100k+ channel. So glad this popped up on my feed. Amazing production and everything else, as well as fantastic execution. You've gained a subscriber, good sir.
Hey! Thankyou, hopefully it isn’t that way for long ! Appreciate the kind words 🙏🙏
Very nice project I’ll definitely have to make one.
Thanks very much! I’ve been using it a bit and it’s been a really handy tool. I’m planning a pt 2 to this video working on the cars themselves, if you liked this one, be sure to check it out!
As a common practice in my daily life of a machinist, try adding a magnet either on the locating flat or the butt end of the boring bar to reduce vibration and chatter. I’ve found it can almost completely remove chatter even without a special holder. Works wonders try it out!
I have heard that since making the video, it definitely sounds like one of “tricks of the trade” things! I’ll definitely be giving it a go next time I bore something, thanks for the tip!
If a threaded hole is made in the tool holder on the back side, coolant can be supplied for machining deep holes.
It definitely could! I don’t have coolant set up on my lathe at the moment, but I have an upcoming project that I’ll need it for , so I’ll probably modify these to suit. Thanks for the idea!
@@nomadhandcrafted even compressed air can help quite a bit in deep bores!
Clever idea. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week. 😎
Thanks very much! Appreciate the support 🙏
ON 4140, I've had good luck running a heavy cut (0.05") at 300 RPM; more chip than string. The bar holder will make a nice addition to the shop.
Thankyou! I do probably need to slow down the rpm a little and try and cut deeper on 4140, I was on the skinny edge of depth of cut for those inserts which definitely dosent help. But thanks for the advice, I’ll give it a go!
Get rid of the compound slide, eliminating most of the flex from the overhang will help. Get solid carbide boring bar holders for your insert type, even the cheap import ones these days are plenty good.
Funny but I never had much trouble with the conventional set-up on a lathe. Mind you, with a boring bar it is exceedingly important that the cutting edge is at the lathe centre height or very slightly above same.
Also, gibs need to be adjusted for minimum clearance and slides not used should be locked in position.
Agreed, I've been guilty of not locking the slides in use before, and spent too long scratching my head as to why things aren't going the way they should. Something I do like about this sleeve setup that I didn't really think about is that I can rotate the bar slightly to fine tune the angle that the cutting tip meets the bore, which does seem to help a little with guiding chips away from the cut a little better
Making a solid mount toolpost is something I've been thinking about a lot. I do use the compound angle a lot for non traditional reasons, as I'm trying to make the best videos I can, sometimes the slide is in the way and rotating it a little does help. But I'm sure it would make a massive rigidity upgrade. Trying some carbide shanked bars is on my list of things to do, and maybe try and compare them a little, but its all money 😂 I'm sure ill get to it one day, thanks for checking out the video!
@@ryebis good idea.
btw to reduse some of the flex you can bor/drill out the most of the core of the boring bar and press/heatshrink a tungston carbide bar into the hole that you drilled ( and if you wanna be super sure that it have -1% chance of getting out agen you can solder/brace it at the end and the small went hole that you probably also gonna drill down at the head / insert end that you drilled to make sure that the carbide bar could get all the way to the bottom without a air pocket )
i done that a few times
That’s a cool idea! Carbide round stock can be pretty cheap, that’s a great cost effective idea, I might just have to use that one! Appreciate the tip!
@@nomadhandcrafted your welcome. i gladly give you as many tips as i can provide with my experiance. btw i dont have instgram so cant send the drawings of a burnishing tool on instagram
Great freaking build!
Hey! Thanks very much!
I used to wrap a strip of lead around the bar when any extended work was being done, it worked.
That’s a really no fuss fix, I like it! Thanks for checking it out
Good one...some flea market solder?
Consider swapping out inserts to something like ccgt or dcgt. Nice video. Great content. Thanks 😊
Thanks very much! I’ve never tried anything with that much relief, what’s the lifespan like? I’ve got some ccmt, and I do like them, but my cheapness has trouble getting past the extra corners of neutral inserts
Lifespan.... minutes. Or a whole project. It depends if you are pushing them hard or just finish cutting. They are designed for aluminum and other non ferrous metals.
I buy them by the 100 from aliexpress. I abuse them and toss them into my carbide bin for later use or recycle. For what I pay, I dont mind. Now, if I was buying name brand @ 4 to 8$ a piece. I would be hesitant to play around.
Food for thought.
Might be worth a look! I usually try to stick to the brand names, hence the fear of burning them up 😂 but might be worth a try next time I grab some stuff on AliExpress, thanks I’ll try it out!
Good video, the split holder style you made is the most rigid for clamping boring bars. You need to take a deep enough cut to get the chip breaker geometry to work, a good tool supplier will have detailed cutting information for their inserts. Whether the machine is able to reproduce the recommendations is a different matter! Slot drills and end mills do not produce a flat bottom counterbore for a capscrew to sit against, they have clearance angles on the front to allow them to cut properly. I would also recommend to use spotting drills to start a drilling operation instead of a centre drill, centre drills can be fragile and if you are not using them to create a centre then its not really worth it.
Thankyou! The inserts I have at the minute are the no name jobs that come with the bars , just cheapo ones, but I’ll replace them with brand name ones when I next muster up the courage to do a carbide order 😂 I tried taking a deeper cut while I was filming, and they really didn’t want any part of it 😂
I’m full of excuse apparently today, but I do agree on the centre drill part as well, I managed to ruin my last one on a little non filmed job, and am waiting for some new ones to rock up, so I just used what I had.
But I appreciate you taking the time for the feedback!
If you're interested in compliant mechanisms like this for the lathe and you're having trouble with parting blades getting stuck (who doesn't), you may be interested in a spring parting blade holder. It's a nice project on the mill, NBR Works has a great video on it. Not sure it's as good as a rear parting toolpost or a solid toolpost, but it's very cool.
I have seen that video, I really love that idea, but also don't want to straight steal someone else and haven't thought of a way to make it unique to me. But he is very clever. Appreciate the sub!
Nice project 👍😀
Is it a good idea for making the sleeve that is holding the boring bar also clamping ?...
So when the toolholder clamps down it at the same time clamps the sleeve tight around the boring bar ?...
If you want better chips coming off the 4140 take a deeper cut and up the feed rate or lower the rpm .
And try to push the insert to its maximum range or intended range.
It looks like your speed and feed are not high enough judging by the birds nest.
Also use a insert with a bigger nose radius can be helpful.
I've literally been machining some 4140 today and tried exactly what you have above, it looks like I've had a bit too much rpm and not enough depth of cut, but surely ill forget how I had it set up before I film some more 😂😂😂 and with the sleeve, it did cross my mind, but I was worried with such a small bar that I would have trouble compressing the sleeve around such a small hole in the Centre, but would defiantly give it a go on a bigger bar.
A great idea! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for checking it out!
Nice! : ) Looks to me like your cutoff tool may be damaged below the end of the insert. Hard to tell from the freeze frame. But if so, might be the source of your trouble.
You are right on the money, I found it after the video, there was a bit of a dag hanging off the side under the insert, I cleaned it up and it seems fine now, well until it decided not to be 😂 but thanks for checking it out! Appreciate the help!
beautifully made sir 🙂👍
Thanks very much!
cool video. You might want to chamfer the O-ring groves, O-rings don't like sharp edges. Cheers.
Yeah I definitely messed that up when filming and didn’t think about it until after I parted them off, I did debur them heavily by hand in the cleanup, but should have chamfered them 😂 thanks for checking it out!
@@dscott1524 I respectfully disagree, especially in this situation
You’ve got me here, why would that be? Simply because they are sitting at full depth?
@@nomadhandcrafted for one thing, quite frankly they are not doing anything in this application. You already know it doesn't make a bit of difference with or without them. 🤷♂️. It is still a very nice boring bar set up. Though you can buy basically the same thing off the shelf... But I digress. Its still very nice.
Secondly in a pressure application, you want just enough of an edge break to be able to safely install the o-ring without cutting it. When pressure is applied, you don't want it to extrude itself into the void left by a heavy chamfer.
Hmm I wouldn’t say I “know” that. The theory makes sense in my head, but as to how much difference that actually makes, I honestly don’t know. I do know that if I hard mount one of these bars in a tool holder, it screams, but in the holder it dosent as much. But that could also simply be a product of better tool holding and mass. But that makes sense with the grooves! Something I definitely did not know, Thankyou!
Looks like a winning idea for those of us with mini lathes
I just need to get a mini lathe...
I’m not sure exactly where your at, but buying used can also be a good option for cost, if you have machinery auctions around you, and your patient, it’s pretty amazing what you can pick up for the right money!
"I have an amazing ability to make simple things really hard"
that hit hard lmao
Haha Thankyou! I truely believe it’s one of my strongest skills! Appreciate you checking it out 🙏🙏
Looks nice mate I’m liking these videos
Thanks very much!
awesome vid, you remind me of inheritance machining. why did the whole part move at 16:46 ?
Thanks very much! He makes great content, I hope to be able to make videos as good one day! I can’t see the holder move, but I did bump the bar into centre to stop it from running at the base of the hole. Appreciate you checking it out!
You need to make you a winky workshop cut off tool you will love it. They work great and they use high-speed steel and I’ve never had a problem on a smaller lathe.
I've been mulling over the NBR works version on the Winky's spring parting tool, I really love that thing and is defiantly on the list but would love to try and make a version that's unique to me, but surely will come up with something someday. but I appreciate the tip!
@@nomadhandcrafted the thing just works and works excellently
It’s something I’ll definitely be exploring at some stage, it’s a very clever idea
Makes sense to me. ...and how did you make "subscribe" appear as you turned the diameter.?
So that one is in the edit, if it interests you, check out text masking, it takes a bit of time, but I like how it turns out 👍
We built speaker cabs many years ago fibergass over thin ply....this broke up resonance of the panels....what about carbon fiber? Tube with cf fill? Hmmm...
Also an interesting thought, I have had brushes with car audio stuff in my life and know exactly what you mean, I’m not sure how you would integrate it into something like this, but an interesting thought…
@nomadhandcrafted i think i can make one with a tube packed with plain glass fiber and epoxy..i have a chatter issue with my lathe partly from out of balance motor or dinged pulley. I think ill try this i haven't done much boring because of this
Sounds like it’s definitely worth a shot! I’d love to hear how it goes
Really interesting thanks! May i ask what mill and what lathe you use? I’m looking to expand my capabilities but I only have a fairly small (very old) lathe at present. Thanks!
Of course! I’m not sure where in the world you are, but I’m Australian if you couldn’t pick it 😂 both of my machines are hafco brand, the mill is a HM47B and the lathe is a AL-320g of if I had my time over I would probably look at a different lathe to the one I purchased (just due to features and some annoyances with the specific model) no a build quality thing, but in general I’m pretty happy for the money. I’m not 100% sure, but these machines look suspiciously similar to the precision Matthews machines I see in other videos if that means anything and are both Taiwanese made👍 thanks for checking it out!
@@nomadhandcrafted thank you very much!
Nice video as always 👍
Thankyou very much 🙏🙏
Nice project.but I don’t see how the compressed o-rings affect anything. I’ve designed a lot of anti vibration mounts and I do a fair amount of boring on my lathe. When you tighten against rubber, it reduces the amount of vibration. But when you clamp metal to metal, even with those tiny o-rings, you’re mechanically shorting out the rubber 0-rings. I’d have to look at commercial damped bar holders to see exactly how they function, but I really can’t see an advantage here.
That’s fair, I do get where your coming from, but at the very least I’m hoping that having dissimilar materials in the mount, that the Orings might “disrupt “ the frequency travelling through the part,l to some extent even though there are steel mating surfaces. The commercial ones are a lot more complex, and have a pocket with some sort of oil and a pair of “tuning” forks inside them on a rubber mount, and I’m led to believe they are tuned to a specific sfm range to work properly. Definitely not the same thing here, but an attempt to try and absorb a little resonance 👍 thanks for checking it out
@ I have a record tone ARM, made by Technics, in the late 1980. It’s also an anti vibration model, with interchangeable wands. The counterweight is complex, using springs, magnets and rubber for damping. You can adjust the damping a bit to account for different cartridge compliance. But metal against metal is going to eliminate any possible effect of the rubber. I could make some suggestion that may help, but then it would become comp,ex. And honestly, other than for extremely precise work, I don’t see it making g a difference. But, the holder is very nicely made and will obviously work well.
That sounds like a really interesting bit of kit! I find it fascinating, but at the same time, defiantly something that's way over my head 😂 but I do appreciate the feedback, thanks for checking it out!
Maybe one idea to try: dissimilar metals. Make a thin sleeve of a compliant metal like copper or lead (not something springy like stainless or brass), put it around your bar holder and clamp the lot.
That is a cool idea! a copper sleeve pressed over the shaft might have a better effect that what i tried here. I did originally want to make the sleeves from cast iron, as the higher carbon is supposed to be a natural dampener, but wasn't something I could get together materials wise for this one, but a denser "sleeve" would be a cool idea!
7:41 you can drill these after you made the slot, than you can drill as deep to actually countersink the thread with the tip of the drill ;-)
Nice video though!
Hey! I've watched your videos for years! I really appreciate the content you make, it's always a great watch!
And thanks, I did think of it at the time but didn't know if the downward pressure of the drill would make it go off center, but after actually clamping it, I'm sure it wouldn't move. Appreciate the comment!
Too much overhang when parting. The general thesis is that parting and grooving operations should be preformed, as close to the chuck-jaws as possible. The last parting operation was reasonably correct.
Thanks for the tip! I definitely do push it too far sometimes, but appreciate the help!
poor man boring bar wont be the main piece with a hole in it for the cutting tool and m6 screw can be mounted directly? i mean less pars less vibration. also at this point you can go with m8 or m10 screw for even less vibration.
I did want to be able to make different sleeves for different sized bars in the future, the 2 I have are both 8mm that I used in the video, but I did make a couple more blanks in case I want to go smaller or bigger, but it would definitely help with rigidity!
I was wandering how your flycutter works tbh :D Button insert works here?
On 7:55 you did that slide move intentionally? Sometimes I see this make by accident, but in this case looks really cool :D
There are tables what grooves should be for certain oring and type of movement/sealing. Personally I like red silicone-based orings, they are... maybe not better, but different. I believe that in machine workshop it isn't relevant, but they have better chemical resistance and lifespan compared to standard ones.
There are kind of springloaded parting tools, as far as I know, they are more forgiving and durable, maybe good idea for next project? :D
That cut with saw are clever. I don't know what forces are involved, but wouldn't be a little better to cut this with ball nose? Sharp corners concentrate stress in small area. I didn't design anything in steel for years, so I don't know if it's relevant in this case
Haha yeah it actually did ok on this one, I’ve really had mixed results on finishes, but I do have a powerfeed now, and it helps a heap! I would like to spend some time diving into different inserts and try and find which is best in that application, but haven’t thought of a good way to present that yet 😂
And I didn’t! That happens when the fluid head of a tri pod is still levelling out when you push record on the camera, and I usually do cut it them out, but i thought on this one it kinda looked cool so I left it in 😂
I’m definitely no O ring expert, but I’m guessing that silicon ones would last a heap longer if it were something needed, the ones I used for this was just some cheapo Bunnings set that I could pick up on the weekend 😂
And I did recently see a video of the coolest spring loaded parting tool I’ve seen, but I have no idea if it’s within my ability to make, but it keeps me up at night 😂
I did find I had a wicked burr on the side of the parting tool from a previous insert breakage that seemed to be sitting a little wider than the slot, and life did get better for me after cleaning it up, so maybe it was grabbing? Appreciate you checking out the video 🙏🙏
Great job, but a really poor man's is rubber bands on the bar it sound silly but it works in a pinch.
Haha that is a cool idea, I’ve also gotten a couple of comments about using a magnet on the end of the bar, apparently it works wonders as well, I’ll definitely be trying them both out! Thanks for the tip!
I thought that a magnet place on the back of the boring bar significantly reduced vibration and chatter. Or maybe it just gets rid of that screeching sound.
Well there you go; I haven't heard that one before. Do have some magnets that would fit on my bigger boring bar, I might just have to try that next time I use it. Thanks for the tip!
@nomadhandcrafted You're very welcome.
That is a really nice and sturdy boring bar holder you made!
However, I do not see the need for the Orings or the set screws on the adapter sleeve.
I split my adapter sleeves so that the clamping screws on the holder also compressed the sleeve to hold the boring bar. The sleeve is given one through slot and 3 or more partial depth radial slots for radial flexibility. If the boring bar is short such as those for a boring head, simply tighten the clamping screws that engage the bar length.
I don't want to start a flaming war but those pump-style tool posts really suck. I believe that much vibration is due to that miserable design.
Back in the early 1990's I built a complete QCTP tool post and 24 tool holders because the cost at that time was too high for me to consider. I analyzed different designs and decided on the dove tail type but made sure that the clamping arrangement pulled the tool holder tightly into the 4 surfaces of the dove tail, with the clamp pull towards the back away from the lathe centre line. This is a rock solid design following sound principles of tool and machine design.
The pump-style tool post you have pushes the tool holder away from the tool post such that only 2 of the dove tail surfaces locate and hold the tool holder. This is a fundamentally erroneous design and no tool designer worth the name would design such a device.
Another source of problems is clamping the boring bar into a holder that is really meant for square section tooling.
Finally, the height adjustment of the boring bar cutting edge is really important. For a boring bar the cutting edge must be on the centre line of the lathe or very slightly above it. Note that this is opposite to the OD turning tool which is set to the centre line or very slightly below it. Turning small diameters will demonstrate the need for this.
Nice video presentation, and good luck!
The toolpost thing has definitely been on my mind, it might be ignorant, but exactly what your talking about didn’t actually dawn on me that much until I was making this video and I was test fitting the dovetail off camera. Looking at my purchased holders and also the one I made, I completely agree a wedge lock would be the way to go, it’s definitely on my “list of things to change” but it’s also a long list 😂 as I’m sure we all have. Thanks for checking out the video!
Yeah, good call on the PISTON STYLE toolpost... Had me wondering for a damn minute what the hell you were talkin` bout, but nevermind that... Yeah, who the fuck ever thought that that is a decent design? I mean, you can literally cut two slanted walls and a ravine between them with a plunger(piston also, but a sensible one) that forces the holder against the slant walls and against the flat of the ravine(if machined damn well to seat against 2 slant walls and hit the flat at proper torque...), even if it just sits against the slant walls - it would have 10x the rigidity when compared to the push-against dovetail type...
I have a custom qctp design on paper that i drew up some time ago, but i`ll need to sort my shit out before starting such a project... A sliding dovetail, but not the conventional internal thread actuated sliding dovetail, something a bit more radical - to put it thusly... Also designed to have full contact on both the dovetails and the flats, but not akin to Aloris style... I`ll be glad to post it online when i get around to it, but as said, for now it`s just on paper... Shit needs to be hardened, ground, lapped in some places, honed in others, not a cheap piece should such a thing be put on the market, but alas, this is not the good old days, such quality is exclusively custom demand generated, not broadly available... It would be quite pornographic to make it out of good toolsteel - the forming dies and gears alloy grade like Merilo steel or other similar chisel steels for cold working, with the holders being spring-steel, hardened and heat oxide coloured at 283celsius(a majestic royal purple) which would leave them quite hard too, but not too brittle... The toolpost could even be plasma nitrided along with hardening to induce an even harder layer of ``case hardening`` on the outside, but now that is just cognitive erotica... res non verba is what it`s all about in the world of machining... well, res con verba - given that we are not talking a production shop but a modern ``online edu-tainer`` workshop...
Do you think the wedge type QCTP is better?
@@robertomartin8731 Provided it is accurately made, yes it is.
@@camillosteuss I made my QCTP and 24 tool holders in the early 1990's and I did not harden the bits and pieces.
For use in a home work shop where 1 or perhaps 2 people use the equipment this would be acceptable.
I black oxide finished mine and that oxide is just beginning to wear off after 30 years of usage.
I see you have a small carbide boring bar already. You know that there are replaceable tip solid carbide composite boring bars available. When it comes to chatter control they are the best. Costly but do a very nice job. Solid bar and the end is usally brazed to it.
Unless you are using salvaged materials it may be worth considering using Cast iron for some of the components. In compression it is as strong as anything else and it is a lot easier to machine. The boring Bar sleve for example being an ideal candidate.
Finally about O rings. Capable of being used in many ways, available in many materials and hardnesses. If you are building something to take the guess work out of grove sizes and even using a suitable material or hardness O ring look up the Parker O ring Manual. Info for static, dynamic and just about any application you could think of. It has loads of information that most will never use but worth a look.
It's funny, I just responded to another comment like this! Cast iron was the original plan for the sleeve, but I didn't have any that was easily accessible, but it defiantly would have helped with the dampening qualities. I do think for the solid carbide bars, I'll try some solid carbide cheaper import ones in the future, and maybe revisit this video for a bit of a comparison. But thanks for the feedback, appreciate you checking it out!
Let me give you a little bit of advice that I have learned in my first few years of my 20 yr machinist career, reduce your tool stick out and material stick out with home machines for the non commercial machine they have poor rigidity because of lack of mass and larger tolerance of the machine if you bring everything in to where the mass of the machine is the larger tolerance of the machine are not as noticeable more you support the pcs (live center) the part can't move rigidity is most important in a home shop even more than sharp new cutters and coolant it leaves a better finish and it makes tooling life go up and if not using it because it is messy then probably shouldn't be machining that's normal water soluble cooling in a squeeze bottle that sends a tiny stream from tip of straw bent 90° and make sure your square part of the caliper jaw doesn't enter round hole wasn't sure if you did that the first hole I might be blind didn't go back and watch try what I said and then comment about it am I full of shit or giving you some constructive criticism to make you a better machinist or I could give you the teaching method my elders 20yrs age definitely get band for bullying on RUclips 😂😂
Nah that’s not bullying I have gotten and will probably get much worse 😂
As for the stick out and coolant, it’s not a good answer, but I’m mostly doing it to try and be able to film better. I do want to have a play with mist coolant, but the “health” things your hear about it has me a little hesitant. And the caliper in a round hole thing, you are right, I guess I was just trying to show the bore went straight through, but I still have a tonne to learn about all these processes, hopefully I get better with time 😂 but I appreciate the feedback 👍👍
Subscribed
Appreciate the sub!
A shop I worked in made sleeves similar to the ones you made they used 12l14 supposed to help with the vibration don't know for sure that's just what they said
I could be really wrong here, but I think that the "heavy metal" boring bars you see are made from 12L14 as the lead content changes the density for the bar material which is supposed to help dampening. Which is something I do want to try making one day, and maybe see how they stand up against solid carbide. I could be completely wrong on the above, but I have heard something similar. I do know that it has a lower tensile strength which might affect flex, but worth having a play with I think! Thanks for checking it out!
if you care that much about your surface finish maybe buy or make a faceing burnishing tool then. personally i would make one myself. that way i can use some of the shanks from broken endmills i have laying around as more then just stop pins
if you want i can send you the 3d drawing's i made of one
It’s something I’ve never tried! I’ve seen a few of them pop up on social media etc, but never gotten around to trying it.
Do you need to use a lot of pressure for them to work?
I’ll never say no to a drawing 😂
@@nomadhandcrafted well when i used a diamind one for a lathe we told it press wotj 0.05mm ( id was 35.55mm and was told to go to 35.6mm . and it turned out to be 35.58mm ) but your machine should easily be able to handle it . maybe just in two passes
need a mail address to send the drawing to btw
Yeah well there you go, I would prefer to not pop it here, do you happen to use instagram?
@@nomadhandcrafted dont got instagram but i got linkedin
Marc Wagner ( have sunglasses on in my picture with green leaves in the background )
Do you have a link for that dovetail cutter?
www.lprtoolmakers.com.au/indexable-carbide-insert-dovetail-cutters-1-2-to-1-3-8-od-range/
I'm pretty sure this is where I got mine, in the 1"x1/2" variety
A second Inheritance Machining channel? Don't mind if i do!
😂😂 I wish, it’s kind of similar without the budget or the skill, but I’ll take it 😂 appreciate you checking it out!
@@nomadhandcrafted The content is similar and satisfying to someone who knows very little about machining.
Thankyou, well I do appreciate it, he is a really clever guy and makes some interesting stuff, but it’s a journey, hopefully one day I get there too. I’m glad you like it!
A slower speed often eliminates chatter.
I did play around a bit with speed when doing some test cuts but found I got more rubbing, but I’ll play around with it a little more in the coming weeks, thanks for the tip 👍
at 8:45 you put 2 insert on ? one above another one ? and whats the rezon ?
The bottom "insert" is actually a solid carbide shim. the larger, higher quality tool holders use them.
Gives the insert a rock solid foundation to sit on, some brands offer them in different thicknesses to adjust cutting height (more applicable to CNC machines) and if you crash the insert hard, hopefully it just damages the shim and the insert and not the tool holder.
And that’s exactly the answer 👆 I haven’t crashed this one personally.. yet… but hopefully it saves some pain if it happens
Lubrication for parting is your friend.
I haven been working on the impression that I shouldn't have to use it as much with a carbide tool over HSS, but I have been back to using it since I filmed this video and haven't broken another insert, so you are probably right, I did also find some damage on my parting holder that defiantly wasn't helping at the time. 😂or maybe I've just been holding my tongue right since then.
Why don't you need o rings around the boring bar?
I didn’t worry too much about going on the inside of the sleeve as the boring bars themselves have quite large flats, so I wouldn’t have gotten much contact all around the bar. But thanks for checking it out!
Nothing like mass to lower chatter.
It’s definitely made a big difference! Thanks for checking it out!
I did like the video. I also subscribed to your videos all of them.. Thank you for adding the voice after video. I would of liked to see a set of plans. I like to make stuff with FreeCad and this would be a great exercise. I also have a lathe and a mill might make this if I do I will make a set of drawings. Keep up the great work and I believe I will take a look at another one of your videos.
Thanks very much! I am slowly learning how to use cad software, but it’s a steep learning curve for me. I can do it, but it takes a really long time, I hope to be able to offer plans one day, but unfortunately at the moment it’s not something I can fit into my schedule. But I hope to able to do that soon 👍 thanks for checking it out!
@@nomadhandcrafted Thank you for your reply. I use Frecad and there are many videos on how to use the program and the best thing is it is free. The program is as good if not better than Fusion 360 and I was a die hard Fusion person until the price got crazy high.
Oh for sure! I have a solidworks subscription, and there is a huge amount of training online for it, I guess I’m just making excuses but I struggle to find a good chunk of time to work on it 😂 but I just need to make the time
you mentioned at the end that you have trouble with depth of cut
well I am a student Mechanical engineering and I might know some thing that can help you with that
a=Pc/(π x 1000 x Kc1.1 x d x n x f^(1-∊))
a - cut depth (mm)
Pc - motor capacitie (watt)
Kc1.1 - allowed cutting force per mm^2 acording to Taylor (N/mm^2)
d - diameter of the piece (mm)
n - revolutions/min (1/min)
f - feed (mm/rev)
∊ - exponent in the cutting force equation accoding to Taylor
please keep in mind that there is a real possablitie that I made a mistake so if your gut fealing tels you that this not good please listen to that
ha-ha appreciate the help. I do try and stick within the manufacturer specs on the inserts for cutting speeds, but 4140 specifically seems to be a bit outside of spec for me, maybe a lack of horsepower or rigidity. But I've been machining some today, and slowing my rpm a little and taking deeper cuts seems to have helped. I will try this though, I've never seen the Kc1.1 reference before, ill look it up!
But appreciate the help!
ممتاز جدا جدا❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks very much!
In your intro the work piece moved in the chuck. Not the flex of any tooling.
Ah, that was just the shot of me breaking the parting tool from later in the video, it probably didn’t line up particularly well with what I was saying but fair call, thanks for the feedback
Makes no sense. Use better inserts and setup instead. Good effort though
They are on the list of things to buy 😂 but thanks for the feedback
Wholy sh.....what the f.....BRUH.....
....Okay, I have been informed is still illegal to do the things Id like to do. But can someone with actual machining experience explain to this person all the ways he A) made his life harder, and B) is going to loose skin if hes lucky, or end up wrapped around a spindle if hes not, please? I cant....Ill get too....mean....and use the naughty not nice words....