I actually just used water thin super glue to repair a spot on my guitar where the finish was worn to the wood and I didn't want it to flake off anymore. So I dabbed it with CA glue and used it as a clear coat, to put it simply. I've also seen people use super glue on fretboards as a finish.
What if the body is colored...like red or blue and the chip is down to bare wood....would you mix the dye/coloring into the CA superglue at the same time...or wait until the dye/coloring is dry on the repair and then apply the clear CA glue over that? Thanks!
Great video thank you! I tried carefully using thin CA glue to drop fill a ding in my vintage classical guitar. What I didn’t know is that CA glue directly on Spruce darkens the wood a few shades. The ding is not nearly filled, any suggestions on how to lighten the rest of the fill?
@Chris Herrod Thanks, although since the CA glue only coated the concave surface of the ding and there's still a roughly 1 cm round concave ding which can be filled, I wonder if there's anything I can do to fill it with something to lighten it (accelerator + more CA glue? Titebond+spruce sawdust?). Any suggestions, or am I dreaming?
If the intention was for the crack to be more or less invisible, what would have to be done to make that happen? Would you mix some blond colored wood dust with the CA glue, in its final application? On the little chunked out binding, could it have been filled with a lacquer stick, and then the white stripe could have been painted on ?
The CA glue has two functions: One is to stabilize the cracked area and the second one is to help repair the finish. This type repair is not very forgiving on light colored wood. However, on dark colored woods it can be invisible. Wood dust and other fillers will just go dark when adding CA glue so I do not do that. If the repair calls for it I splice in a new piece of wood. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Robert. This was a teachable moment. I only wish I had fully realized early on in my life that music, guitars and lutherie were going to have been a lifelong passion. But it's still exciting.
White haze is due to moisture being trapped in the finish. If the CA glue cures too quickly it can also become white and bubbly. If this is the case then remove and try again. Hard to diagnose without a picture though.
Great video I sealed the cracks on my solid cedar top guitar with a satin finish. I have not attempted to buff it polish it yet because if the following. Issue is that areas around where I filed in with glue turned milky white. I did not use accelerator to cure any of the glue applied. Any ideas on how to correct this?
Well, my guess is there was some contamination with the CA glue and the sealer. Usually when something goes white it means there was moisture contamination. Was your sealer completely cured before applying the CA glue? Was it water based sealer? It could be you are also working in a high humidity environment.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for the response. No sealant was used since I didn't see any used in some of the videos of yours I watched. Should I have used some? It is winter in Chicago and had not been overly humid as of late. A few rain days here or there. This is a beater guitar, so I'm using it to learn how to do basic repairs. I think I will sand it down after I level off the crack repairs and refinish it with the same (Satin), or maybe change it to a gloss finish.
I've got a Marin with herringbone and the binding is coming off slightly at the waist. It is very minor, probably less than half a millimetre of separation between the binding and the herringbone inlay on the body. I ordered some CA glue for it and was going to just drip a bit in there and tape it shut, but I came across one of your videos where you mentioned CA can bleed and stain a top. Now I'm a little worried that the CA may bleed into the herringbone and discolor it. Is my concern warranted? Would you suggest using CA or something else?
This is a fairly common problem with Martins. CA glue can be used as the instrument has a finish on it and this will keep the glue from seeping into places it shouldn't. You also want to use just a very little bit of the CA glue. Don't let it run everywhere and clean it up from the finish immediately. You can use a thicker viscosity glue or even a Gel glue. Good luck.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for the response! After doing a bit of research I think I'm going to use the Stewmac Bind-All, which is the consumer version of the IMI binding glue that a lot of shops apparently use.
I actually just used water thin super glue to repair a spot on my guitar where the finish was worn to the wood and I didn't want it to flake off anymore. So I dabbed it with CA glue and used it as a clear coat, to put it simply. I've also seen people use super glue on fretboards as a finish.
Exactly what I needed to know. Trying to repair an old lute. thank you.
Amazing, and this is just one of many things you can teach us, thank you for your valuable knowledge.
This is a technique I was using on my model airplanes twenty years ago.
What if the body is colored...like red or blue and the chip is down to bare wood....would you mix the dye/coloring into the CA superglue at the same time...or wait until the dye/coloring is dry on the repair and then apply the clear CA glue over that? Thanks!
I like the razor blade trick ; I wonder if it , will work on car door scratches filled with paint ?
I have never tried it for the purpose. There is only one way to find it.
Great video thank you! I tried carefully using thin CA glue to drop fill a ding in my vintage classical guitar. What I didn’t know is that CA glue directly on Spruce darkens the wood a few shades. The ding is not nearly filled, any suggestions on how to lighten the rest of the fill?
@Chris Herrod Thanks, although since the CA glue only coated the concave surface of the ding and there's still a roughly 1 cm round concave ding which can be filled, I wonder if there's anything I can do to fill it with something to lighten it (accelerator + more CA glue? Titebond+spruce sawdust?). Any suggestions, or am I dreaming?
If the intention was for the crack to be more or less invisible, what would have to be done to make that happen? Would you mix some blond colored wood dust with the CA glue, in its final application? On the little chunked out binding, could it have been filled with a lacquer stick, and then the white stripe could have been painted on ?
The CA glue has two functions: One is to stabilize the cracked area and the second one is to help repair the finish. This type repair is not very forgiving on light colored wood. However, on dark colored woods it can be invisible. Wood dust and other fillers will just go dark when adding CA glue so I do not do that. If the repair calls for it I splice in a new piece of wood. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Robert. This was a teachable moment. I only wish I had fully realized early on in my life that music, guitars and lutherie were going to have been a lifelong passion. But it's still exciting.
will that ca glue wrinkle up lacquer finishes?
Hello! I did so but the CA glue made white haze, how can I get rid of that haze?
White haze is due to moisture being trapped in the finish. If the CA glue cures too quickly it can also become white and bubbly. If this is the case then remove and try again. Hard to diagnose without a picture though.
Great video
I sealed the cracks on my solid cedar top guitar with a satin finish. I have not attempted to buff it polish it yet because if the following.
Issue is that areas around where I filed in with glue turned milky white. I did not use accelerator to cure any of the glue applied.
Any ideas on how to correct this?
Well, my guess is there was some contamination with the CA glue and the sealer. Usually when something goes white it means there was moisture contamination. Was your sealer completely cured before applying the CA glue? Was it water based sealer? It could be you are also working in a high humidity environment.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for the response. No sealant was used since I didn't see any used in some of the videos of yours I watched. Should I have used some?
It is winter in Chicago and had not been overly humid as of late. A few rain days here or there.
This is a beater guitar, so I'm using it to learn how to do basic repairs.
I think I will sand it down after I level off the crack repairs and refinish it with the same (Satin), or maybe change it to a gloss finish.
@@arturofernandez6088 Well, we have eliminated some of the issues so this one has me stumped.
I've got a Marin with herringbone and the binding is coming off slightly at the waist. It is very minor, probably less than half a millimetre of separation between the binding and the herringbone inlay on the body. I ordered some CA glue for it and was going to just drip a bit in there and tape it shut, but I came across one of your videos where you mentioned CA can bleed and stain a top. Now I'm a little worried that the CA may bleed into the herringbone and discolor it. Is my concern warranted? Would you suggest using CA or something else?
This is a fairly common problem with Martins. CA glue can be used as the instrument has a finish on it and this will keep the glue from seeping into places it shouldn't. You also want to use just a very little bit of the CA glue. Don't let it run everywhere and clean it up from the finish immediately. You can use a thicker viscosity glue or even a Gel glue. Good luck.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for the response! After doing a bit of research I think I'm going to use the Stewmac Bind-All, which is the consumer version of the IMI binding glue that a lot of shops apparently use.
Is there a way to determine which finish was used on a guitar?
Here's a link to a video that will help you determine the finish on a guitar.
ruclips.net/video/icnfZtJddCg/видео.html