How To Repair A Chip In A Guitar Finish
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- Опубликовано: 19 ноя 2020
- In this video I quickly repair a large chip in a black nitrocellulose finish using super glue. Cynoacrylate adhesives can be tinted with dye stains, but I had some Loctite 480 on hand, which is a black CA glue. I used accelerator before application, then several grits of wet and dry sandpaper. Finally I buffed the repair with fine cutting compound and swirl remover.
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I've just rewired this guitar in a new video. I also recorded a track to demo the different tones from the new switching set up. Cheers! ruclips.net/video/tV-TcoLPkkE/видео.html
Sir outstanding work you definitely need to open up your own guitar repair, and restoration shop,..you will save your customers hundreds of dollars in repairs.
Do you have a paypal or anything for a tip jar? Thankful for the free info but your videos have saved one of my guitars, and would love to give even a little back.
If anyone can learn to do this kind of work competently like this guy, you’ll never be out of work.
Wanted to thank you, I saw this a coupe years ago and saved it. This past year, I sold a 2014 Dave Murray signature strat that was like new. When I opened the case to clean it I voticed a tiny chip. I was pissed and ready to let the buyer know but I thought, screw it I'm trying this. I had already purchased the 480 and had it on hand. I tried it, and Success! No way to tell the difference. It polished up nicely. Thanks!!!!
Excellent , a modest guy who knows what he is talking about.
Very helpful and eloquent .
How all you tube videos should be!
Great results! Who would’ve thought Super Glue would become an important ingredient for small touch-up jobs. I’ll be trying my hand tomorrow, doing my first attempt at a drop fill. I’ve watched a bunch of videos on this technique, and this is amongst the best. Thanks for taking the time to make this. It’s really helping those of who are looking to get professional results. G’day, mate!
This is the best video I've seen for this kind of repair. Very informative and easy to follow. Thank you.
Glad it helped mate.
Thank you very much for your tutorial. After watching this, I attempted some repairs with Loctite 480 on a black Explorer. Some of the chips were along the edges and corners of the guitar, which made "sculpting" the hardened glue a bit more tedious, but overall doable. Here's what I noticed though: When wetsanding the Loctite, there was a formation of tiny black grains on the sandpaper and I could start to see wood showing back up. However, these grains were not the acrylate per se - it was just the black color compound. The Loctite was still intact, it just started losing color. That was really confusing. I ended up removing the Loctite, painting the exposed wood black and then covering the now painted wood again with Loctite. That worked perfectly.
This happened regardless of how much force I was using or how fresh the sandpaper was. It just sucked the color component out of the hardened acrylate.
Best repair video I've seen. I have been screwing up repairs for about three years now. I finally. did it!
What worked was listening to your tips while sanding. Clean paper. wet paper, throw away the dirty paper. not back and forth, circular. Tiny bits get under sandpaper and you have to backtrack and go to lower paper.
Nice tip. Just used this technique on 92 les paul studio in black. Worked a treat
Wow what a remarkable improvement 👏
Brilliant repair!
Superb video and process, no wild “click-bait” claims.
Wow! This is invaluable, thank you.
Finally a good video on the topic!! Many thanks! :)
That was " Pro-Style " Glad I subscribed. I love learning about doing " All my own work " on my guitars and basses. It came-out beautiful. oNe LovE from NYC
Cool demo, thanks Rob 👍🏻
This worked a treat, many thanks!
Good stuff. Just what I needed to see. Well done.
Superb instructions, explanation, repair and camera work! I’m going to try this out myself:)
Thanks mate.
PS; I now know what caused this, BTW. The case had worn out felting, and one of the hinge rivets was scratching the lacquer. Nitro is so brittle, it just chipped away over the years. I have since put some new padding in that area, but not before my lovely new repair got a bit dented again. :( Oh well... It's all mojo I guess lol...
You did a great job.
Enjoyed this. Quick and informative. Thank you kind sir.
Glad it was helpful mate.
Thanks mate. Just took a chunk out of jazz bass, top of the body. So it’ll be a forever reminder. Thanks for the locktite tip. Cheers
really great video, I am doing exactly that right now at the top back side of the neck, thanks
Nice job! And the black Loctite 480 tip!!! Right on! subscribed
Thanks mate.
Really impressive, mate, you've transformed bread into wine!
Nice job! :)
Well done!
That looked wonderful. Especially when you realize that it is on the bottom of the guitar.
Great Job!
Pro repair! Looks like it was never there in the first place👍
Just had a finish chip in my strat, will try this once i’m home!
Nice ! I like your video is quick and to the point . Cheers
Excellent job !
Thanks again!
Freaking amazing man. Good job
Great job ....I love repairs,so satisfying 😆
Thanks mate. (I like your name too.)
@@RobMods Yeh m8 ...had a double take myself. ...bond movie baddie Meester Keeed😂
Very well done bro! Thx for share.
Excellent method. Thank you! Liked and Subbed.
Watching the process is scary - seeing all the damage that is necessary to inflict to fix the problem, but the results are beautiful. I can't say i would dare attempt this after merely watching a video. A ten hour class, at the very least, is what i would want before trying this myself.
well this man might have some Guitar repair experience sounds like it. I have a deep ding on my Telecaster and I just cover it with Black Electric Tape 😎
Tks for your tips 😘
Very good mate... cheers!
Great job!
Thanks mate.
Got this really awesome Kramer ferrington from 84, and it's got some gnarly dings, hopefully your lil technique will 2ork out for meh!
excellent, works wonder, sthanks
that is a pretty good job...
Outstanding
Brilliant
So satisfying 😮😮😮😮
Nice job!
Thanks!
Now you just need to take all the hardware off and polish the rest. Good job looks great for a quick repair.
Nice video, thanks! Could you also do this with poly+hardener(+maybe little thinner) or do you have to do this with superglue? Asking because I "accidentally" started with sanding the headstock right after I rounded off the tuning peg holes and the poly was not dry enough (left it only 24h to dry), and when I was sanding it with 600, I peeled of a small triangle right on the edge of the peg hole, dow to the primer. Now there is still a small part on the edge of the "wound" that is loose and I am wondering if to use superglue or poly+hardener to fix this? I already sanded it lightly and applied fresh colour to the wound. I know superglue is much faster, but does it hold on the long run? I am hoping that this is the last layer before the final upper layer that I will polish ... right after I fix this :) ... properly.
good basic and quick repair on finish and I have a white guitar with near edge chips in finish... same basic problem to resolve on a $135 guitar. Cheap training and I am pretty handy with tools and paints and abrasives.
Cheap guitars can be great learning axes, and these days, often perfectly serviceable instruments. (See Project Berocca.) This plus youtube, and luthiere forums etc, there's never been a better time to have a go mate.
How did your repair turn out and what did you use as a filler? Did you have to paint over your repair to get the white color?
Very well done sir 👍
Cheers!
looks all fine and easy on your video, however, I have a red body guitar so I am trying to use the red permanent Loctite, and spraying activator on it first, just like you did, and it just doesn't seem to want to dry, even left overnight it still wasn't dry, i went out and got a new tube, and even a gel Loctite, they all do the same thing, any idea?
From 4:51 on, you could have used Colgate toothpaste to finish the job. I've used this method on many basses and it works just as well as a drill polisher in case you don't have one. Good job, nevertheless!
Niceee!! I better buy that black superglue! Thanks for the video!
now what do i do if my guitar is white, and its a big patch in the middle of the guitar body that would be noticable if i covered it with any superglue that would not match
Thank you for this method, I am trying to get rid of pickup ring holes in my guitar. I've tried filling them with black Loctite 480, but no matter what I do I always get a ridge (or witness line, don't know if those are correct terms) between Loctite and surrounding black poly finish. I am really not sure if that's because Loctite doesn't blend well with poly, or because somehow that bright bare wood texture on the edges of the hole is visible through the glue, or it is a bit of both. Do you think pre-staining the walls of that pickup holes would help and what stain would you suggest? But I am rather thinking that it may be because of the wrong type of glue for the job or I am not doing some esential steps. Do you think regular superglue with acetone stain could work better? Would really appreciate any help and thank you again.
i have a nice gibson SG red i need to do this too. how would i color match the glue?
Would, I, be able, to apply this repair to my acoustic guitar as well?
Hey in what order did you wet sand them? I'm new to this and don't know which grits to get
i just also found the scratch like this on my guitar's back body..only a tiny one and a bit deeper but not translucent,,, will the sound change after that? that's my new yamaha cg 122 ms guitar, 😭😭 how mm the thickness of this guitar's back body? i can't find out on the internet
Do u have a video on a white guitar?
Rob, what would be different repairing a similar chip in a poly finish?
I have a fender newporter color champagne and the paint at the bottom peeled a little how can i fix it
Hi @RobMods
My husband’s guitar broke today and the damage was just like yours. The color is red.
Could you please tell me what things would be required to fix it if we want to do it at home?? Its an Ibanez guitar.
Could i use wood filler instead of superglue? Then paint afterwards
Nice. I have a hollow body Ibanez that had some nasty finish cracks around the neck joint and I thought I'd try to fill it in with a black paint marker and super glue. At the time I thought the super glue would spread out as it dried but instead it just left veins of hardened glue that are kinda obvious looking. Maybe I'll try to finish the job.
Go for it mate. This stuff takes a bit of practise, but you've got to start somewhere!
Hi. Thanks for the video. Can you please tell me how long you did let it dry?
Greets from Germany 😎
Wow.
What sandpaper did you use and in what order, my friend?
I really like your work. I think this would work great for the chip in my guitar. It would help if you specified each grit of sand paper you used. Please do so, that would help me out a lot.
Generally I use every second grit. But if you are new to this I'd say use every grit from say 400 to 2000. (400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000). Make sure the 400 has removed the file marks before moving up. TBH, I use these grits simply because that's what the hardware stores stock in my part of the world. If you can get more modern abrasives like micro mesh, then go for it.
been using my wife's black nail polish?
I have a small chip on guitar....is there any necessary to repair it?....will it harm my guitar?
Nice repair! I've just bought a bstock on Black Friday and it has a nasty dig in the body that I'd like to get repaired.
Nice one. FWIW, since making this video I've found that Stewmac sell a pretinted Black CA glue...
Thank you for the video.
About using compound to remove scratches, can it be done with a car compound?
Yes. The Maguiar's products I use are for automotive finishes.
Hey Rob! Thank you for the videos you make! Do you use superglue accelerator in such repairs? And what polishing compound do you use?
Hi Oleksandr. Thanks mate, I'm glad you like my content! If possible I usually avoid accelerator for this type of repair. There's a risk the glue will sort of boil as it cures and it leaves the finish hazy. FWIW, with vintage finishes, the accelerator can sometimes make them tacky. Also, the bottle the accelerator comes in doesn't really atomise it very well, plus it's hard to aim accurately. I've heard of busy repair shops having accelerator in airbrushes ready to go at all the work benches. A good idea I think if you do a lot of drop fills and CA work... Be aware that a thick blob of CA will sometimes take several hours to fully harden through. As for compounds, I use Meguiar's products. Cheers!
Brilliant video 10/10
That end result was fantastic.
So well done and explained.
What would you recommend for chips on the black side of a Gibson Les Paul headstock?
Well, I just used Loctite 480 because I happened to have it, but it is expensive. You can tint CA glue and poly resin with spirit stains (AKA dye stain). Here in Australia I use Feast Watson Proof Tint for that sort of thing. I'm pretty sure Stewmac sell black super glue as well.
@@RobMods Cheers Rob. I'm in Oz too so I'll be able to get those products no probs.
Could you provide a link for where you got the neoprene? I can't tell if that is a single piece or if you put two pieces together. Love that idea for sanding blocks!
I buy my (closed cell) neoprene from an ebay seller, who as it happens is just a few suburbs away. I might be able to find a link, but I'm sure there's a seller in your part of the world. It is used for wet suits, mouse pads etc etc. I mostly use it for under bass pickups and for that, I buy it with a self-adhesive side in 12mm thick A4 size. As for that little block I'm using with the light blue on one side, well I've had that for years, and I honestly can't remember where I got it!...
What I don’t understand is how the glue spot seemingly disappeared! I tried this and I still have a fairly visible grey/black chunk. This method did fix my initial problem, it feels nice and smooth but still visible. Any help or tips?
The lighting in this video is deceptive. He didn't show the end result in broad daylight which would have shown the repair. He would not have used this method on the face of the guitar. Matching the tint of a spot repair perfectly to the rest of the guitar is almost impossible. The entire side of guitar would need to be sanded and spray painted for an invisible mend.
Lacking the power buffing wheel, is it possible to hand polish this to a finish? What would I need as a polishing compound medium?
Yes you can buff out a whole guitar by hand, believe it or not. I would take the wet sanding up to 3000 grit or higher, then I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound to remove the scratches left by wet sanding. I finish with Meguiar's Ultimate Polish. (Meguiar's is not a sponsor BTW, I just like the stuff. Plus it's easy to buy in my part of the world.) Use a soft cloth for the compound, and a soft foam pad for the polish. FWIW, you can buy 3"/75mm polishing kits very cheaply on ebay/ali exp etc. These work very well.
If you do not have a colored CA like he does, does anyone know if you mix the dye/coloring into the superglue at the same time...or wait until the dye/coloring is dry on the repair and then apply the clear glue over that? Thanks!
In general its best to try and emulate the original finish layers. But if it does have clear coat, then it will be hard to hide. FWIW, you can tint CA with alcohol inks and spirit stains. However if I do tint up a drop fill I never use accelerator. It is best to let it cure naturally.
Wow
what if its a white gloss finish same size of ding? how will you paint it? clear super glue then sand then white gloss paint, sand, polish? Great video as always.
did you get an answer? I have the same issue...mine is white gloss as well.
I have a question. A small chip irregular in shape and roughly 3/8” in size came off the bottom of my guitar II roughly the same place as the one in your video. The piece fits perfectly in the hole but I don’t know what kind of adhesive to use. I Super Glue and Super Glue Gel. Would there work or is there something else that would work better that I could use? Thanks. 👍☮️🌞🎸❤️
If the chip fits well, I say go for it. Just regular medium glue would be fine. But be careful not to glue your finger! I usually use a fingernail to press down a small thing like that with CA glue. And keep it moving. There's a good chance you'll still have to wet sand and polish the area. Think through your technique. Have a dry run. I would probably glue it place first with a central blob, applied with a tooth pick for good control. Then I'd carefully wick in thin or medium CA around the edges... Good luck!
hi great video! what compound did you use at swirl removal stage? thanks!
Thanks mate. I think it would have been Meguiars Mirror Glaze No 9. Cheers!
Good afternoon Rob. I need to fill five or six small holes (pick up screw mount holes and one mini-toggle hole) in a black ibanez pickup guard. Do you think your Loctite 480 solution might fill the holes and harden nicely enough?
hey, I am trying to do the same with Loctite 480 but no matter what I do it leaves very apparent ridges around those holes. did you managed to get it right?
Where do you buy the buffer pad / attachment for the drill?
Hi Joseph, I bought the mandrel and about a dozen pads in a kit on ebay for around 12 AUD, if memory serves... Cheers.
Awesome content! Subscribed & liked. Are you in the middle of the summer over there? We have snow.
Hi! Could you please tell me where to get the black glue you used for the repair work, the two compounds and the pads you used for the polish? I'm trying to get something similar to get that job done here in Italy...
P.S. Thanks a lot for the video!
Is recommend the black CA glue that Stewmac sells.
I'd like to see the repair done on an uneven surface like a German carv
That's such an awesome video. I've used same thereadlock glue just red one on my guitar and it did not dry at all. It stayed wet even after over 2 weeks since application. Very strange. Just wondering how long did yours take to dry?
Loctite 480 isn't a thread-lock. It is a cyanoacrylate glue. (Super glue.) Threadlock will not harden without pressure - being squashed between two surfaces. I used 480 just because I happened to have some, and it's not really ideal for this sort of thing, but you can get black super glue from Stewmac. Or you can tint your own with acetone based dyes.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate the explanation. It makes so much sense now
Yeah but what do you do for different colors and what if you have a maple top chip that has flame???
I usually tint shellac, but you can also tint lacquer or CA glue. I use alcohol inks, and spirit stains for this. I do have a basic airbrush rig as well. The goal is to try to copy the original layers, but really if it is a complex tinted trans or faded or metallic finish, it is unlikely to be invisible at close range, even with years of experience. But with practice you can make things look a lot better.
Any repair experience with, or advice on; with a skunk stripe where the stripe is slightly sunk and slightly raised in sections of the neck?
First work out what is going on. Theres lots of questions. Has the stripe moved? Is the glue seam failing? Or is it just a finish issue? It it a modern neck with poly? Or is it a vintage neck with old nitro? The stripe might need regluing. Is it just a feel thing? Or it it visible as well?
@@RobMods Feel and it's visible, albeit quite minor. Like half a millimetre or so, but you can feel it whilst playing, as well as sight it visually. The main suggestions being given, are to be to fill the sunken sections, super glue type glue, then sand flush. And just sand back the risen sections. Super fine grade sandpapers, then polish. Seems plausible? But don't want to make a mess of it!
I have a neon pink guitar...can I use nail polish or do I need to mix it with transparent loctite to make it harder?
Hmm, I'm not sure that would work. AFAIK, most nail polish is heavily pigmented nitrocellulose lacquer. I'm not sure the mix would cure properly. I guess it can't hurt to mix up a test batch, and see. I wouldn't use more than 10% polish in the CA. You could certainly use the nail polish on its own, but If you have to lay up several coats to fill a chip, then I'd leave it a good week or more before leveling and polishing. Also, since there is so much pigment in it, I doubt it would polish to a really high sheen. (The 480 is like this. It is hard to see with the camera, but it isn't quite as shiny as the back lacquer.) But I guess you could coat it with a few layers of plain CA then wet sand and polish this. With coloured fills, I usually use shellac as a binder then try to match the colour with alcohol dyes. I lay this up with an airbrush, leave over night, clean the edges of the chip with metho (I use a magnifier), then finish with a CA drop fill. It is never fully invisible at close range, but certainly acceptable from 12 inches.
The guys who are real experts at these sort of repairs usually try to match the original finishing schedule layers. And also with similar materials. Best of luck with your repair!
@@RobMods much more than what I expected! thank you very much!
What about red
How would you recommend repairing a chip on a sharp body line using this same method?
Firstly I'd set up the guitar so that the repair area is pointing up. I used a couple of bricks and some rubber matting, but you'd have to get a bit more creative I'd think, to get the guitar to sit at the correct angle.
The next thing I'd look into is using thick CA glue. Sometimes it is labelled "gap filling" or "non-drip" or "gel super glue". It is high viscosity and you should be able to drop it on to the edge with a toothpick and have it just sit there in a little blob, without running down either side. Then it's a matter of patience, just building it up in layers. You may want to mask off each side just in case, or have a practice on corner of some scrap timber or something to get a feel for it.
To level and polish, approach it as two areas, one on each side. File, and sand up to your final grit on each side. Then, when you have a good flat on each side coming to a clean sharp edge, you can create the radius to match the rest of the body lines. Start with an even 45 degree chamfer with two parallel lines, then round them.
Finally, polish it out, but lay off the very edge for a start. Aim to polish both flats first. If possible angle the buffing wheel slightly so that where it contacts the finish, it is spinning towards the edge. Take your time. Catching the edge with a buffing wheel can create a lot of heat in that one area, and may melt the finish. If there's a thin dull line left on the edge, then just polish this by hand. Best of luck!
@@RobMods thank you so much for this valuable information.
There's a video of the one and only Dan from Stewmac doing a similar fix but he used a piece of already hardened nitro finish to melt on top for a more seamless finish. Not sure where you would get that piece of nitro tho ha ha
Yeah, nitro would be an invisible (or near invisible) repair. But I haven't bought nitro for at least 15 years. I'm not even sure you can buy it here in Australia. And I've never seen small quantities available. Also, a nitro fill this thick would take months to cure and stop shrinking. Having said that, nitro is very easy to work with because it cross-links so perfectly and polishes so easily, so in a way it is ideal for beginners to use, but it is particularly nasty stuff. If I still had a pro spray rig for refin work, I'd be looking into water based 2-pack auto finishes.
If this is a proper nitro finish, then it can be reflowed and buffed out when drop filled with a compatible finish. I'd only ever advocate using superglue or other patch like this on polyester or other catalysed finish that is going to telegraph witness lines. Nitro repairs can be made invisible most of the time! Then again, it's only a Tele ;-)
Australia’s about as tight as California when it comes to carcinogens so he’d probably struggle to find rattle cans of Nitro. You can barely get them in the U.K., and they’re pricy.
@@Jonathan_Doe_ True enough. I'd always try and evaluate a repair based on potential end value before resorting to quick fixes like CA. I'd even consider repairs with reversible materials such as tinted shellac sticks on polyester finished instruments before jumping into CA. It's just a bit too invasive and difficult to roll back easily.
Will this work on a white Nitro Guitar?
For a near invisible repair, nitro is best, since it will melt in perfectly to the old nitro. But you need to match the colour well, and you need to be very patient since nitro in a thick application will take weeks (or months!) to fully cure. You may level and polish it, then a few weeks later it looks like a little dip since it has shrunk back slightly.
However, if you can tint CA glue to white (I've never tried), and you can live with some fine witness lines around the fill, then it will work well. I have filled a few white poly finishes in the past and used a white epoxy.
What if your guitar is painted in blue or red or something else? You had the luck that the Loctite glue is black
내가 옛날에 사용했던방법이구만요 더좋은방법있을가해서 유튜브검색했는데 더좋은 다른방법없네요
Very nice job indeed! I have 2 chips in a white poly finish that I have to repair. You are fortunate that the filler/glue you used was already black so you avoided having to deal with spray painting. am not aware of any white colored adhesive I could use as a filler...so I will have to paint.
You can tint CA, shellac, and nitro with alcohol inks (from art stores) and with spirit stains (from hardware stores). And you can get white alcohol ink. It is often called "titanium white" or similar. If you are in Australia, try Art Shed. Test test test, and have fun!
There is a white ca (stu mac)but will not completely match .I use white markers from mohawk , but still need tint .