3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 12
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Finally, some actual progress! First power on with all boards and wiring connected, except the tool head, was successful.
I then started loading the firmware onto the Raspberry Pi and Octopus board following a video from 'Build It Basement'.
Build It Basement video on installing Klipper for Voron 2.4:
• Start Here! How to Ins...
The only thing I encountered that was different from the above video was that I only had the 64bit version of Mainsail showing in the Raspberry Pi Installer, so that's the one I used.
I also had an issue getting the PuTTY software to connect to the Raspberry Pi. I was getting a 'Key Exchange Algorithm Agreement' error when trying to login to the Pi. I had seen this before while working on another project, and remembered that the fix was to update PuTTY. It turned out that the version of PuTTY I had installed was several years old, and installing a new version did fix the issue.
As shown in the video, the screen was upside down on initial boot. Voron notes that this might happen, and has the steps needed to reverse the image here:
docs.ldomotors...
I still need to do some configuration for the Chaotic Lab Tap v2 Z height modification before plugging in the tool head wiring loom. Once I get the printer up and running, I'll probably be switching over to CANBUS or USB to reduce the wires from the tool head.
Brother, I love how clean your wiring is but there is no need to have a breakout board on the underside of the printer. In fact I would STRONGLY encourage you to do canbus. I have 4 350mm Voron Tridents and 3 of the 4 are on canbus now. Also I would suggest you ditch the Octopus and convert to a Manta M8P with an CB1 hat so you can just ditch the RPi and have a MCU that can just do canbus. The cost is not that much more for a massive QOL enhance. Personally I like having the TFT display (im using all HDMI displays but 1) and the Mini because the mini is just faster and easier to set temps and load//unload filament with.
I have the exact Voron 2.4 r2 as yours. Same Pi and controller but I cant get my LCD to turn on. Its strange, because if I remove the ribbon cable the voron boots up and I am able to connect to in via the ssh Voron.local browser. If I plug the ribbon back in, I get nothing on the LCD and the pi wont boot, nor can I connect via the web browser. Also when the ribbon is plugged, the green light is extremely faint. when I disconnect the ribbon, its bright green and flashes. Did you add or remove any comments from the printer.cfg Display section?
On first boot my screen was displaying upside down, so I followed the LDO instructions to flip it. Other than that I made no screen config changes.
I was very careful to make sure the ribbon cable was plugged in correctly. You may have one end reversed. Make sure you look at the LDO pictures very carefully to make sure you've got it plugged in correctly!
@@TomsProjectsI made certain the ribbon was installed correctly. I get nothing on the screen. I shot off an email to West3D where I purchased it from for support. I hope I can get a resolution.
Resolved: My kit was shipped with the wrong ribbon cable. They send me a ribbon cable that was not revered. In other words, the the contacts on both ends were on the same same when they needed to be on the opposite side of each other.
@@Ricom69 Talk about making troubleshooting even harder! I didn't even consider that possibility. Good job getting it resolved!