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TomsProjects
Добавлен 1 дек 2009
3D Printed R2D2 - Part 106
Michael Baddeley R2D2 files:
www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
Wall and infill settings taken from the "Print Guide for R2-D2 v1.2" found here:
www.printed-droid.com/files/
We have a center vent and speakers!
www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
Wall and infill settings taken from the "Print Guide for R2-D2 v1.2" found here:
www.printed-droid.com/files/
We have a center vent and speakers!
Просмотров: 367
Видео
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 15
Просмотров 381Месяц назад
More Nitehawk-SB setup. Really trying to figure out the umbilical. Run it from the toolhead to the back of the gantry as Chaotic Lab shows in the carbon fiber kit install PDF, or run it out the back of the printer next to the bowden tube?
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 14
Просмотров 143Месяц назад
Beginning the Nitehawk-SB setup with the toolhead first. Under the printer wiring will come next, as well as trying to figure out the best way to route the umbilical cable.
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 16
Просмотров 124Месяц назад
Bottom of the printer look at some of the Nitehawk-SB installation. Still need to work out the umbilical, although I'm pretty sure I'll be going with the option that feeds it out the back of the printer next to the bowden tube.
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 13
Просмотров 307Месяц назад
Pushing plastic! All motors working, quad gantry level OK. Next step is to calibrate the extruder to make sure it's pushing the correct amount of filament out. The toolhead wiring is currently the LDO 14 pin connector plus the additional 2 pin connector that's for the neo pixel LED's. I've decided to go with a Nitehawk-SB umbilical system. This will turn the 16 wires into 4, or 5 as the ground ...
3D Printed R2D2 - Part 105
Просмотров 602Месяц назад
Michael Baddeley R2D2 files: www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley Wall and infill settings taken from the "Print Guide for R2-D2 v1.2" found here: www.printed-droid.com/files/ Jason Charlton's 3.5" speaker mounts for the Baddeley MK III droid: www.printables.com/model/209867-baddeley-mkiii-center-vent-speaker-adapter Well, I'm finally getting back at it. I tried a few times since I stopped but the though...
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 12
Просмотров 5723 месяца назад
Finally, some actual progress! First power on with all boards and wiring connected, except the tool head, was successful. I then started loading the firmware onto the Raspberry Pi and Octopus board following a video from 'Build It Basement'. Build It Basement video on installing Klipper for Voron 2.4: ruclips.net/video/O_5F9NnVSmM/видео.htmlsi=0JkQN6QSlrB4RtDw The only thing I encountered that ...
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 11
Просмотров 2 тыс.5 месяцев назад
After 2 months, I've finally started working on the printer again. I found a video of someone else installing the carbon fiber gantry, and that got me motivated to start working on my printer again. Link to the video: ruclips.net/video/cF7x0WPIlGE/видео.htmlsi=1XfMwhNoGH_OBIZz Here I'm showing how I routed the X and Y endstop wires, as it differs from the standard LDO kit. Next up is finishing ...
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 10
Просмотров 4235 месяцев назад
This video was made at the end of December 2023, I just didn't upload it until now. I mention needing one more LDO 2.4 Rev. C part for the bed that holds the Wago connectors. After waiting a month, I reached out to see when I should expect it and was told that it had been sent out right after I requested it but they would ship out another. I did get the replacement, so I have begun working on t...
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 9
Просмотров 4088 месяцев назад
I'm wiring the underside of the printer now but have hit a little snag. The USB C to USB A connector that links the Octopus main board with the Raspberry Pi is not oriented correctly. The USB A part needs to be angled so the wire comes off the connector towards the front of the printer. Instead, the wire comes off pointing downward. This cable would be the lowest point of the printer, and if I ...
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 8
Просмотров 1 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Wiring underway. I've got the tool head mounted to the Chaoticlab CNC tap and I've installed the LED lights, which run along the left and right top frame pieces.
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 7
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.8 месяцев назад
The A and B belts are now on, so the carbon fiber gantry is done, kind of. The gantry uses a microswitch on the tool head for the X limit and another on the back of the gantry for the Y limit. This clashes with the LDO kit, which uses a small PCB that has both the X and Y switches mounted on it. I'll need to figure out how I'll set that up, along with the wires coming off the tool head once I g...
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 5
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Slowly working on the new carbon fiber gantry. It would have helped if all the screws shown in the packing list were actually... packed.
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 6
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Finally, I have all the screws I need and work on the gantry can continue. By the end of the day at the point of filming this, I was back where I was before I ordered the carbon fiber kit. Now I'm waiting on the Chaoticlab Tap V2. That will allow me to attach the belts and the print head assembly. Then it will be onto the wiring.
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 4
Просмотров 40810 месяцев назад
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 4
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 3
Просмотров 20610 месяцев назад
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 3
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 2
Просмотров 24410 месяцев назад
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 2
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 1
Просмотров 39710 месяцев назад
3D Printer Voron 2.4 Rev. C 350mm - Build Progress Part 1
I dontget what your shooting
i had no idea you could kill the flippers once they hit the top without a super zapper or without firing down on a spike as they approached. Thanks for that. OTOH, I think you just ruined the game for me! lol
@@rsf3119 Unintended conequences!
My dad was describing his favorite game to me, I showed him this, and he went on about how much fun he had w this, thanks for uploading!
@@nsaylor97 My pleasure! It always tickles me when this old video gets new comments! Now you and your dad should see if you can find a local arcade and have a fun day out!
Just found out this series, though I landed on a later video first. I have the v2 Dome in and and body printed, yet haven´t assembled any of it . I doubted about too many things (even about my sanity 😅) To this day me or my printer make mistakes that can be frustrating.... Sudenly I don´t feel so alone. I have a lot to print and many videos to watch! Thank you so much for documenting your journey! Cheers!!
@theforso Thanks! I hope my videos can save a bit of your sanity! Take breaks and mix up printing with some assembly so you don't get burnt out from spending too much time one one thing. You're definitely not alone! Keep at it, and good luck with your build!
@@TomsProjects Yes, it definetly can lead to burnout! I am indeed mixing it up. Thank you for your answer! And again thankyou for your videos, they are really useful and encouraging.
Carbon fiber looks great Hope you got it printing. May I ask about your acceleration
@younghillionaire Still not printing yet. The replacement panel enclosure parts are being shipped now, so hopefully soon.
I see your dome... So, in the original movie, the upper ring ( the ring just under the dome ) is flush to the dome and the body of R2. There is no recess to it. Same for the upper ring. The ring where the lazy susan goes in. I was looking at this and it kinda --------- me off that both rings are recessed. It makes these 2 rings harder to print because you have an overhang to deal with with both rings and it does not look movie authentic. The recesses on the 2 rings is based i believe on the fact that on the side blueprint of R2, there is a recess made by the 2 rings. That is the only reason why i think Michael has put them in there and still does with his MK4 version of the dome which is a whole other can of worms unto itself. So, you want the movie look, you dont like the recesses or they printed ugly?? easy fix to this. Bring in each of the parts of the upper ring in mesh mixer and get rid of these stupid recesses. It will work perfectly with the V2 parts of both rings. Upper and lower ring. open mesh mixer. click import Navigate to your ring part and click open. It is going to appear in meshmixer. Click edit a new pop up window will open Click on generate face groups ( this will subdivide the part into faces that you can edit ) Click accept Click select reduce the brush size to 2 (dont click on anything else) Now you need to go do a double click on the face you need to fix. i.e the part that is recessed. Double clicking will select that entire face. ( that's the hardest part to do ) The face will turn orange. That means that the selection is done right. Make sure that the selection does not extend to any other face. This is super important! Now move your cursor back to the top. Click edit. A new side window will open. Click on extrude. Slide the harden and the density sliders all the way to the right. In the direction drop down go choose normal. then go and slide the offset to 2 or you can click the number and you should be able to type it in. You will see that it bring that face out outwards and brings it flush to the wall above it. It does not change the size of the part or anything. It just extruded that face out. Voila... no more stupid recess on the ring!!! movie look and easy to print! Click file export Save the .stl file in the folder location that you want and print when you see fit. Reassemble the rings as originally intended. Done! Movie look! That is what i did for both rings. Now... The Mk4 dome situation.... it's a ton of problems to solve and to become upset about. For all that is claimed to be gained about it, you loose twice as much to how complex this becomes as you build this. No jokes. I had to print 3 basics dome to make just a fairly good one that i am not even done with yet. The complex dome version is a pain to print and assembled as you get more seams to deal with and have to fix gaps on your dome later. This is honestly gonna cause you a ton of aggravations. More seams to fix up. Not good! The bottom ring system that he made for the basic dome and complex dome spills over the diameter of the body of R2 MK3 !!!!!!!! If you were not happy that the the rings were not flush with the dome in a previous video then you will be mad to see what Michael did. In my situation the bottom ring that i printed is not flush with the body anymore. I have no clue why it was done that way. So i cannot use that ring at all, It would make my r2 just look messed up. You are better off fixing the rings and reprinting the V2 dome as everything fits together well and you won't have to mcguyver one of his system to fit on the other. Hopes this wall of text helps. Bottom line. There was nothing wrong with the V2 dome system, at least not the dome itself. So in a way if you got a good printer i would recommend sticking with the V2 version of the dome. In my case i have fixed the recesses on the upper and lower ring, reprinted the rings and i will use the basic Mk4 dome. The basic Dome includes all the panel in the print. It's a mess to print right and to assemble and finish but i have to stick to that one now.... If you are planning on using the V2 dome There is also a mod the merges several pieces of the dome parts together so you get less seams to fix. If you got a bigger printer, then i would suggest that!!! I cant find the folder but its a mod done by someone. Hope this helps "evryone"
@galaleiokrypto5298 I remember someone posting about the rings on the Facebook group back before I took my sanity break. I had tried to find the post but wasn't able to. Insert facebook rant here. I remember at the time that I wanted to do the same. Are you the one who posted the information there? Thanks for the walk thru, I'll probably end up reprinting my rings, which, luckily, I haven't started sanding yet. My pet peve is the octo ports being recessed way too deep. I'll be starting to work on those parts soon and can't decide if I want to try and 'fix' them by gluing them to the body and trying to make the join as seamless as possible before painting the blue so it goes just a couple mm from the outside 'skin', rather than the current huge amount of white that's visible if you just paint the ports and screw them in place.
@@TomsProjects I did complain several times about not being to print either ring systems properly. They are too thin and when they go up they curve outside. This is is on my machine sv06 Plus. Never been able to make it straight like it is meant to be. People kinda ridiculed me for posting that as they said they had no issues with them. I don't know how they got it to find on their body because the lady susan portion falls off the body like i said or maybe not. I will have to recheck this also. I did end up printing that ring but i modded it heavily in meshmixer.... but thats another story. That's fine but for me it did not work out. Like i said it might be a better idea to stick with everything V2 as i have explained. I am sanding down the v2 rings to make them flush with the mk4 dome... frustrating as it involves a ton of tweaking. I totally understand why you had to take a break on this... For the messed up part i would try to fix them in mesh mixer. I have discovered that the bigger panel besides one of my bread pan door is not fitting right. A side effect of having a slightly crooked body part. So i will have to do the same trick i did for the ring, extrude both side by the smallest of margins and then sand it down so that it fits. I don't mind if the panel is gonna look wonky. I am gonna weather my r2 so he is gonna looks crusty as Adam Savage would say.
@@TomsProjects I worked on that ring again ( complex one ) MK4 I was able to do some more moding on it. Adjusting things and ring heights and make the lower ring "flush" with the upper ring now. I am doing a test print which should finish late tonight. For the octo part. I would try to fix it in mesh mixer. I know i push this a lot but you can easily tweak the part... I think you should be able to fix it.
How to Add Thickness to STL Models with Meshmixer from The Machine Bros Solutions is a video that shows you visually what i have explained. You will see how fairly easy it is.
aug 5 - New update. New test done. Thinned the lower ring on the MK4 complex dome. Not good! It makes the bottom ring too thin and susceptible to tears and breaks. So i had to look at this in another way. I decided to retest a previous ring on the body of my r2. It was another Mk4 complex dome ring done in full. Now i am going to contradict myself. Here goes. From what i can see the lower ring is within the boundaries of the body. i.e it seems to fit flush to the body of r2. Now the problem is that the upper ring is recessed by 1 mm so this time around i extruded that ring outwards by 1 mm so that it is now flush with the bottom ring and flush with the dome. In theory that should finally solve everything out. I did other tweaks but i want to print test the ring first to see how it turns out. When it does i will repost here and if you want i can share the STL file with you "if" you think you are going to print the Mk4 dome. I know i said to do the v2 rings but i want to give the mk4 ring another chance as i find that if it is done the right way it might work out to be better.
3:46 this is called parallel. If the speakers are 8-ohms each, the pair needs to be treated as a 4-ohm speaker because they are in parallel, else you will burn out the speakers or their amplifier. Impedance Matching is important for MPTT.
@rockosgaminglogic Yes, I totally suck at speaker wiring. The speakers are 4ohm each and I just wanted mono output. Hopefully it's all good. I didn't test the volume to see how loud it can go, I was saving that for another day.
@@TomsProjects that might be worse. Check the impedance of the amplifier. If you have your speakers in parallel then that's a 2 ohm load. If you put them in series, its 8 ohms. Some amps have a 4-ohm or 8-ohm option on the back. Or having series pair in parallel for a 4-ohm load with four 4-ohm speakers. Getting the impedance matched will make it sound a lot better, too.
currently astromech is down, is there another way to ge the v3 firmware.
Is it haed to build?
Also, the temperature of the chamber has not been an issue with PLA under normal conditions. I have the exhaust fan installed, but rarely use it to cool the chamber when printing PLA.
Long time Voron owner here. Progress is looking good. The drag chain method is the vanilla route as you likely know. If you want to avoid the weight of the drag chain, the umbilical paired with the bowden is a great way to go. I have that setup on another printer, no issues after hundreds of hours of use. Dragging against the top is not an issue with my printer, but I do not have a spring steel wire. IMHO, the wire is not necessary as a capicorn bowden tube provides sufficient rigidity. Like you said, if it doesn't work, you can change it.
@@kailuasurfing Thanks! That's what I plan on doing. Unfortunately I need to wait for replacement panel clips, so I'm stopped again.
Are you building another one? AWESOME!!!
@@EdG407FL Another one? Nope, this is still the first one. It's just taking me way longer than I thought. A 2 year pause due to severe paint prep burnout is the primary cause.
@@TomsProjects Cool can't wait to see more!
if you ever mess those connectors where they dont click in u can buy ENGINEER PA-24 which works for these PC micro connectors and more.
Great to see you continue with the R2 build, I have learnt many things from your R2 build series so it has been very much appreciated. I have completed my 3D printed R2 build, just need to hook up all of the shadowmd electronics. I blew up my Host shield yesterday so I have the setbacks as well and the burnouts, especially from all the sanding...it never seems to stop. I didn't realize how much of a project it really was, John Salt's videos made it look easy..lol. All the best for the future build, looking forward to seeing the progress.
@scottc7749 I'm so glad that my videos helped! I'm sorry to hear about the host shield. I remember watching John's build videos and being amazed at how quickly he completed it. From time to time, I have to remind myself that we all just have to go at our own pace and don't rush it.
Happy Happy Happy to see you back in action!
Thanks, it's good to be back! It didn't take me too long to get back in the sanding 'zone'. Now I just need to remember to take breaks.
@@TomsProjects I am barely starting sanding... on vacation so i was able to sand down a mk3 dome so that the joints are flat now. then i can fine sand it again to prepare it for the rest of the process, did a first pass at the body.... I totally understand you that this is an incredibly long project to undertake . I have been printing and reprinting for over 2 years, bought a ton of tools and electronics parts and i am nowhere near done. I keep my sanity by switching between things ( sanding/electronics/power) or otherwise i would have just given up by now.
@galaleiokrypto5298 Switching up what you're working on to prevent burnout is the way to go!
Following. I have the dome and body glued up and almost everything printed. We now need to finish the assembly and painting as well as the electronics. It's a fun project, but also big commitment!
That is an understatement! Good luck on your build! Remember that it's OK to take breaks from the project now and then. I didn't, and it ended up burning me out for quite a while.
Woo, never clicked a notification this fast in my life 😂 Glad to see you’re back at it 🙌🏻
LOL thanks!
May I ask, how are you getting into the Registry of this tsumo PC? I have a revolt but if I go to safe mode it just reboots.
The setup has been in a box since I made the videos. It's tough to remember. I would think using a keyboard to ctrl-alt-del would get you to Windows, and then you can access it from there but it's been so long that I'm not sure if it's got a mod that disables ctrl-alt-del.
goodbye tempest my love
How did you screw the cable chain to the gantry?
The kit comes with a piece that allows you to connect the back chain to the gantry, as well as a gland to hold an umbilical cable. It does not come with a part that mounts to the gantry to help keep the chain in vertical alignment. The LDO kit comes with one, but I couldn't figure out a way to modify it to mount to the round tubes. I'm hoping it isn't needed. The kit also lacks any parts or suggestions on how to mount the other end of the umbilical to your toolhead, but I guess that may be due to how many combinations of toolhead, extrusion motors, etc.. that people use.
how is the carbon fiber gantry holding up ? , is this the chaotic lab one ?
I still haven't printed a test print yet. Nothing but issues, mainly due to bad printed parts. I did get successful quad gantry level and calibrated the extruder, so I have 'pushed plastic' but I still haven't printed anything. I'm currently working on the umbilical setup but had a plastic clip that holds the back panel in place crack on me. I'm about to send a not very happy email out about it, as I'm not stopped again as I can't route the umbilical through the back panel if I can't get the panel attached.
@@TomsProjects that’s not very good to hear , hope things sort out and you progress with your build. Keep sharing more as you work towards a solution.
In my case. i had printed the mark 3 version and not this version. Once again the MK3 is all inclusive, meaning that you don't have panels to glue on the side of the legs. I printed the kris cut and the printing when decent. It was a passable job at the time. The issue came at the assembly. with the MK3 kris cut you have 2 sets of dovetails to deal with with each parts. My calibration was probably off on my printer and the dovetails would not slide in easily in each other so i spent half a day with my dremel trimming the dovetails and cussing i was able to get it to fit reasonable well but of course when you rush you make some mistakes and i end up with slightly crooked legs at the bottom of the legs which just ----- me off to no end. So recently i took them out again and looked at them and decided to simply reprint them but using the MK2 version of the leg like Tom just did. For the most part the dove tailing is extremely tight for me, up to the point that i probably could assemble some of the parts with no glue but would have to apply a lot of pressure to squeeze the parts together and it is a bit too tight to me. the contrary of what Tom is going thru which can be worse, so i will have to do some filing on the dovetails until they slide in and out comfortably. I think this version has more post processing to deal with but in a way they are less harder to assemble than the other version. I just wanted to throw this in in case someone was wondering on which version to choose. BTW the files are compatible. You can print a MK3 body and use the MK2 legs... as Michael says as long as you use the same module for the parts you make you won't have any issues.
I had printed this also the MK3 ankles and i never was satisfied with the print. The corners had lifted and the inside cavity for the leg was completely filled with junk filament because i had put supports in.... plus the channels were also filled up. So weighing having to clean this up and fiddle with it. I decided to reprint the ankle but with the Mark 2 version instead. It breaks this ankle in 3 super easy parts to print that lay flat on your plate so a corner lift is unlikely. I printed the curve part with minimal walls and infills as it is not structural but i print the part with the pivot point and the part that goes with it at 14 walls and 50 % infill. I know it is a crazy amount but i figured that this is a big stress point on r2 so might as well go overboard than cheapen out and have it break on you later. So you do have options on this one... The all in one piece is really harder to print and clean up. The broken in 3 parts is easier to print and comes out clean. The only caveat or blessing in disguise is that you have to glue these two parts together extremely well so that the ankle doe not split open horizontally due to vertical pressure. That being said, there is a ton of surface on these 2 parts and a super nice and well made track and channel system to put the 2 parts together so i am confident that with "good epoxy/glue" it will hold on and basically fuse together and give you an almost troublesome free easy to print ankle. Honestly i do not know why it was not kept that way. I guess that Michael figured out that too many people were printing the mk2 parts with barely any walls and infill and that things broke all over the place and got some blame that he decided to fuse everything together to try to mitigate that but at the same time it make it harder to print, especially for noobs like me originally when i did these parts.
Very good points! I also had a hard time printing the one piece ankles. I had one garbage print that sagged way too much where the leg slides in. Going with the V2 version is definitely an option. If you've got a lot of printing experience and know your printer well enough (I didn't) then the one piece can pose a challenge, and it's an awful lot of waste material if you mess it up.
@@TomsProjects My philosophy on 3d printing is "let the printer do the work and not you" i.e if you are able to learn your machine well and some tricks and tips then you will have less post work to do. It also comes down to your slicer and understanding what it can do for you. also, you know when you have done a bad print job and covered it up. Despite making it pretty, you know all the kinks and defects and it eats at you... no joke.... at least it does for me on some of the parts i printed. So... what do i do... just reprint the darn thing in a different way... the machine does the work, not you when it prints. all you have to do is sit and entertainment yourself while the printer works away. As long as you learn how to use your slicer as best as you can to conquer bed adhesion you are off to the races. I know you know this Tom. I just thought i would put it out there to say to others to not abandon... just reprint until it "feels right".
@@galaleiokrypto5298 Well said!
Question. Regarding the 5/16 threaded bolt. What was the length of the bolt?
I think it's 60mm. Not sure I wrote it down, I think I just put a bolt through, then marked and cut it. I'd like to get you the exact measurement but it's a hard piece to get to without doing quite a bit of dissasembly.
I have the exact Voron 2.4 r2 as yours. Same Pi and controller but I cant get my LCD to turn on. Its strange, because if I remove the ribbon cable the voron boots up and I am able to connect to in via the ssh Voron.local browser. If I plug the ribbon back in, I get nothing on the LCD and the pi wont boot, nor can I connect via the web browser. Also when the ribbon is plugged, the green light is extremely faint. when I disconnect the ribbon, its bright green and flashes. Did you add or remove any comments from the printer.cfg Display section?
On first boot my screen was displaying upside down, so I followed the LDO instructions to flip it. Other than that I made no screen config changes. I was very careful to make sure the ribbon cable was plugged in correctly. You may have one end reversed. Make sure you look at the LDO pictures very carefully to make sure you've got it plugged in correctly!
@@TomsProjectsI made certain the ribbon was installed correctly. I get nothing on the screen. I shot off an email to West3D where I purchased it from for support. I hope I can get a resolution.
Resolved: My kit was shipped with the wrong ribbon cable. They send me a ribbon cable that was not revered. In other words, the the contacts on both ends were on the same same when they needed to be on the opposite side of each other.
@@Ricom69 Talk about making troubleshooting even harder! I didn't even consider that possibility. Good job getting it resolved!
Good info Tom. Thank you.
Glad it helped someone!
Hey Buddy, I pretty much trying to do the same setup as you. Please how did you install the rama front idlers ? the chaotic holes for the connectors are both big (m5) but rama's are 1x m5 and 1x m3 ? what did you do ? Thanks in advance
I sandwiched the Rama and Voron plates together with an m5 bolt and nut which acted as a 'vice' to hold them in proper alignment. I then either used a drill to drill the m3 opening up to 5mm size, or might have heated up an m5 bolt and used it to melt the m3 hole out to m5. I honestly can't remember which way I did it. I hope that makes sense. Sandwich the 2 plates together using the m5 holes, so you can then tell exactly where you need to enlarge the 3mm Rama hole to m5 diameter using whatever tools you prefer.
@@TomsProjects Thanks a whole Bunch. The Chaotic labs kit is very nice. Toooo bad they keep meesing with it, by not including all the screws and bolts. Thanks
Need help with this game as well my friend has the game cabinet with movement ect.. there are 3 games on the Cabinet bit the HArd drive dies and I have no backups or details on how this thing ran?
Hi Tom, i need your help. I'm trying to hook a marcduino master up to arduino ide and i am getting nothing on the monitor. Im about to try reapplying the hex file to it but wow... this is giving me more pain than it should. Any advice?!? What board are we supposed to select? Any and all help is appreciated!
I think i figured it out... use the serial pins, not the ISP pins... woops. Took me all day to figure that out. Again.
@@grasug8550 glad you got it sorted! Sorry for not replying sooner, I've still not done any work on R2 since my last video. I thought I might have made a video about that part of the electronics but I don't seem to be able to find it in the playlist, unless it's in the comments somewhere. I need to get back at it before I forget more than I have already!
@@TomsProjects yeah i'm having to relearn things i knew a year ago... life keeps getting in the way! Your videos are fantastic though and are appreciated. I just got myself some AstroPixels and the upgrade is either going in my much unfinished R2 or my kids driod-head-on-the-wall (caption 'This is the droid we were looking for'... he's very much Empire...). Haven't decided yet. They look very cool though. You should check them out :)
damn that looks so GOOD. and also lightweight. the only thing i would change is those cf bars for a cnc vslot (probably won't make a difference but idk how to work with those bars)
Very happy you could share this unfortunately this is great learning for us all.
I have two Initial D3 cabinets. They both have the netdimm things. I've been thinking about trying the wipi thing, but I can't find any info showing that both could still link together. Do you think they would? Cool video btw :)
I've never linked Naomi cabs but know that they use a link board and tsolink cables. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
Brother, I love how clean your wiring is but there is no need to have a breakout board on the underside of the printer. In fact I would STRONGLY encourage you to do canbus. I have 4 350mm Voron Tridents and 3 of the 4 are on canbus now. Also I would suggest you ditch the Octopus and convert to a Manta M8P with an CB1 hat so you can just ditch the RPi and have a MCU that can just do canbus. The cost is not that much more for a massive QOL enhance. Personally I like having the TFT display (im using all HDMI displays but 1) and the Mini because the mini is just faster and easier to set temps and load//unload filament with.
Do you know if the metal cased house of the dead2 Naomi motherboard is capable of playing other cartridges like marvel can capcom 2? Or is the hotd2 Naomi mb only dedicated to the hotd2 board attached to it? Hope that question makes sense!
It can run other carts. Note that there isn't enough physical room in the metal box to plug a plastic cart in. The HOTD carts aren't in the normal cart plastic case, the bare PCB is plugged onto the motherboard with no case. You could remove a game PCB from its normal plastic case and plug it in. Just be careful due to the risk of static electricity when handling the PCB.
@@TomsProjects for real? Don’t play with my heart man? I’ve been bummed all day about this! If it for sure can play marvel vs capcom 2 I’ll beer you right now out of appreciation!
Also, question…. Does it have to have an eeprom chip installed on it (the house of the dead 2 Naomi) that is a US bios? Seems like this is what threads are saying and is a reason I’m terrified to do that. But are you saying this isn’t necessary? Do t play with my heart! Lol
@@TomsProjects so to be clear if the Naomi has a metal case and was a hotd2 cabinet and I want to play marvel vs. capcom 2 nothing needs to be done to the Naomi outside of opening the metal case, and taking the plastic off of the marvel vs.capcom 2 game? I know I need the right jamma or jvs harness though.
@@daveeagle2721 Sorry I forgot to mention that. HOTD2 uses a unique BIOS EPROM that only works for that one game. You will need to replace it with a different BIOS to play other games.
This is a pirated version (or emulated version) you can't reach realy high levels, the game had anti pirate checks and prevents you from playing high levels.
This was played on actual arcade hardware, no emulation or piracy.
Hello, does anyone know where i can get my Sega Naomi Crazy taxi fixed?
i said before i just started printing the feet im going to have fun getting my version 1 dome to fit on my version 2 body been told it can be done but getting holes to line up and some drilling been said going to be a headache i think i read right the files for the legs and feet are all version 3 or been told to print those from version 2 to version 4 all the same files am i right on that Tom
i just started the feet and ooo boy thought the body version 2 was wild and the legs there so much going on in the files just for the feet just what i see maybe with the bearing falling out use a 3d pen to add some pla or to heat up the sides to the bearing on the problem with the pin you think you should reprint i would than use some wd40 see if that dont help the bearing slide down easier or maybe a air dryer to soften the shaft i just throwing ideas let us know what you find im about to be in the same boat
I'm starting mine today! First dome section is printing now. I know it's a long journey but I'm excited to start.
Stay on target! Good luck with your build!
Tom i said stuff to the other vid part 40 that you did ill say dont let it become a nightmare for your self trust me im a big perfection type of person i found just go with it itll all work out a little filler primer paint no one well ever notice and itll work i myself not printed my feet yet but when i do ill slap it together and just go with it
just asking tom i got version 2 body and legs all printed what i can see version 3 and 2 are the same i havent started printing the feets yet i wasnt happy with how my lower section the base and next section of R2 body was so im reprinting the lower section than ill work on the feet ooo you filming this in my cabin cause i have the same washer and dryer lol
Which omni wheels did you use? Vex or Ali-express
I used the Vex wheels for the build.
What pi hat is that?
It provides 5v to the Pi, and comes with the LDO Rev. C kit. It plugs into another small PCB placed on the Octopus board.
If you've ever wondered if the 1084 can be EASILY converted to a 1084S, the answer is no, the audio circuit design is completely different. The 1084 uses the volume control pot on the input (mono), which obviously doesn't work for stereo input.
I've repaired a bunch of these phillips monitors. The 1902, 1084, and 1084s are all similar. The 1902 has a monochrome green button which I once converted to monochrome amber with some resistors. Working on a 1084s right now with a bad flyback (I believe). I noticed that when monitoring the HOT collector with an oscilloscope, the pulse rang in a descending sine wave and the base signal was also distorted. When I removed the HOT the input to base was a perfect 15khz square wave. Replacing the HOT gave same effect. I figured the flyback must be damaged (diodes shorted?). Still waiting on the replacement.
Don't use endstops :)
Baby steps!
Do yourself a favor and DO convert it to Canbus, it answers so many questions that would otherwise render unanswered. I did mine on the first build and it's been definitely worth the investment.
That cable management is on point, my trident wires are a hot mess.
Thanks! I must admit that the LDO kit came with pre-assembled wiring looms and good online documentation, so it was just a matter of matching it up to the pictures.
Read up on the LDO Nitehawk SB kit. I think it will solve some of your issues.
Thanks, I'll look it up!
Cool and thank you for the documentation. I'm still collecting all of the electronic bits in order to finally put my electronics together. Thanks for all of the handy tips. I am not looking forward to having to get into the code to add all the extras I've accumulated over the years.
Sounds like you're going to end up with a very special build! Good luck!