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I dontget what your shooting

i had no idea you could kill the flippers once they hit the top without a super zapper or without firing down on a spike as they approached. Thanks for that. OTOH, I think you just ruined the game for me! lol

My dad was describing his favorite game to me, I showed him this, and he went on about how much fun he had w this, thanks for uploading!

Just found out this series, though I landed on a later video first. I have the v2 Dome in and and body printed, yet haven´t assembled any of it . I doubted about too many things (even about my sanity 😅) To this day me or my printer make mistakes that can be frustrating.... Sudenly I don´t feel so alone. I have a lot to print and many videos to watch! Thank you so much for documenting your journey! Cheers!!

Carbon fiber looks great Hope you got it printing. May I ask about your acceleration

I see your dome... So, in the original movie, the upper ring ( the ring just under the dome ) is flush to the dome and the body of R2. There is no recess to it. Same for the upper ring. The ring where the lazy susan goes in. I was looking at this and it kinda --------- me off that both rings are recessed. It makes these 2 rings harder to print because you have an overhang to deal with with both rings and it does not look movie authentic. The recesses on the 2 rings is based i believe on the fact that on the side blueprint of R2, there is a recess made by the 2 rings. That is the only reason why i think Michael has put them in there and still does with his MK4 version of the dome which is a whole other can of worms unto itself. So, you want the movie look, you dont like the recesses or they printed ugly?? easy fix to this. Bring in each of the parts of the upper ring in mesh mixer and get rid of these stupid recesses. It will work perfectly with the V2 parts of both rings. Upper and lower ring. open mesh mixer. click import Navigate to your ring part and click open. It is going to appear in meshmixer. Click edit a new pop up window will open Click on generate face groups ( this will subdivide the part into faces that you can edit ) Click accept Click select reduce the brush size to 2 (dont click on anything else) Now you need to go do a double click on the face you need to fix. i.e the part that is recessed. Double clicking will select that entire face. ( that's the hardest part to do ) The face will turn orange. That means that the selection is done right. Make sure that the selection does not extend to any other face. This is super important! Now move your cursor back to the top. Click edit. A new side window will open. Click on extrude. Slide the harden and the density sliders all the way to the right. In the direction drop down go choose normal. then go and slide the offset to 2 or you can click the number and you should be able to type it in. You will see that it bring that face out outwards and brings it flush to the wall above it. It does not change the size of the part or anything. It just extruded that face out. Voila... no more stupid recess on the ring!!! movie look and easy to print! Click file export Save the .stl file in the folder location that you want and print when you see fit. Reassemble the rings as originally intended. Done! Movie look! That is what i did for both rings. Now... The Mk4 dome situation.... it's a ton of problems to solve and to become upset about. For all that is claimed to be gained about it, you loose twice as much to how complex this becomes as you build this. No jokes. I had to print 3 basics dome to make just a fairly good one that i am not even done with yet. The complex dome version is a pain to print and assembled as you get more seams to deal with and have to fix gaps on your dome later. This is honestly gonna cause you a ton of aggravations. More seams to fix up. Not good! The bottom ring system that he made for the basic dome and complex dome spills over the diameter of the body of R2 MK3 !!!!!!!! If you were not happy that the the rings were not flush with the dome in a previous video then you will be mad to see what Michael did. In my situation the bottom ring that i printed is not flush with the body anymore. I have no clue why it was done that way. So i cannot use that ring at all, It would make my r2 just look messed up. You are better off fixing the rings and reprinting the V2 dome as everything fits together well and you won't have to mcguyver one of his system to fit on the other. Hopes this wall of text helps. Bottom line. There was nothing wrong with the V2 dome system, at least not the dome itself. So in a way if you got a good printer i would recommend sticking with the V2 version of the dome. In my case i have fixed the recesses on the upper and lower ring, reprinted the rings and i will use the basic Mk4 dome. The basic Dome includes all the panel in the print. It's a mess to print right and to assemble and finish but i have to stick to that one now.... If you are planning on using the V2 dome There is also a mod the merges several pieces of the dome parts together so you get less seams to fix. If you got a bigger printer, then i would suggest that!!! I cant find the folder but its a mod done by someone. Hope this helps "evryone"

3:46 this is called parallel. If the speakers are 8-ohms each, the pair needs to be treated as a 4-ohm speaker because they are in parallel, else you will burn out the speakers or their amplifier. Impedance Matching is important for MPTT.

currently astromech is down, is there another way to ge the v3 firmware.

Is it haed to build?

Also, the temperature of the chamber has not been an issue with PLA under normal conditions. I have the exhaust fan installed, but rarely use it to cool the chamber when printing PLA.

Long time Voron owner here. Progress is looking good. The drag chain method is the vanilla route as you likely know. If you want to avoid the weight of the drag chain, the umbilical paired with the bowden is a great way to go. I have that setup on another printer, no issues after hundreds of hours of use. Dragging against the top is not an issue with my printer, but I do not have a spring steel wire. IMHO, the wire is not necessary as a capicorn bowden tube provides sufficient rigidity. Like you said, if it doesn't work, you can change it.

Are you building another one? AWESOME!!!

if you ever mess those connectors where they dont click in u can buy ENGINEER PA-24 which works for these PC micro connectors and more.

Great to see you continue with the R2 build, I have learnt many things from your R2 build series so it has been very much appreciated. I have completed my 3D printed R2 build, just need to hook up all of the shadowmd electronics. I blew up my Host shield yesterday so I have the setbacks as well and the burnouts, especially from all the sanding...it never seems to stop. I didn't realize how much of a project it really was, John Salt's videos made it look easy..lol. All the best for the future build, looking forward to seeing the progress.

Happy Happy Happy to see you back in action!

Following. I have the dome and body glued up and almost everything printed. We now need to finish the assembly and painting as well as the electronics. It's a fun project, but also big commitment!

Woo, never clicked a notification this fast in my life 😂 Glad to see you’re back at it 🙌🏻

May I ask, how are you getting into the Registry of this tsumo PC? I have a revolt but if I go to safe mode it just reboots.

goodbye tempest my love

How did you screw the cable chain to the gantry?

how is the carbon fiber gantry holding up ? , is this the chaotic lab one ?

In my case. i had printed the mark 3 version and not this version. Once again the MK3 is all inclusive, meaning that you don't have panels to glue on the side of the legs. I printed the kris cut and the printing when decent. It was a passable job at the time. The issue came at the assembly. with the MK3 kris cut you have 2 sets of dovetails to deal with with each parts. My calibration was probably off on my printer and the dovetails would not slide in easily in each other so i spent half a day with my dremel trimming the dovetails and cussing i was able to get it to fit reasonable well but of course when you rush you make some mistakes and i end up with slightly crooked legs at the bottom of the legs which just ----- me off to no end. So recently i took them out again and looked at them and decided to simply reprint them but using the MK2 version of the leg like Tom just did. For the most part the dove tailing is extremely tight for me, up to the point that i probably could assemble some of the parts with no glue but would have to apply a lot of pressure to squeeze the parts together and it is a bit too tight to me. the contrary of what Tom is going thru which can be worse, so i will have to do some filing on the dovetails until they slide in and out comfortably. I think this version has more post processing to deal with but in a way they are less harder to assemble than the other version. I just wanted to throw this in in case someone was wondering on which version to choose. BTW the files are compatible. You can print a MK3 body and use the MK2 legs... as Michael says as long as you use the same module for the parts you make you won't have any issues.

I had printed this also the MK3 ankles and i never was satisfied with the print. The corners had lifted and the inside cavity for the leg was completely filled with junk filament because i had put supports in.... plus the channels were also filled up. So weighing having to clean this up and fiddle with it. I decided to reprint the ankle but with the Mark 2 version instead. It breaks this ankle in 3 super easy parts to print that lay flat on your plate so a corner lift is unlikely. I printed the curve part with minimal walls and infills as it is not structural but i print the part with the pivot point and the part that goes with it at 14 walls and 50 % infill. I know it is a crazy amount but i figured that this is a big stress point on r2 so might as well go overboard than cheapen out and have it break on you later. So you do have options on this one... The all in one piece is really harder to print and clean up. The broken in 3 parts is easier to print and comes out clean. The only caveat or blessing in disguise is that you have to glue these two parts together extremely well so that the ankle doe not split open horizontally due to vertical pressure. That being said, there is a ton of surface on these 2 parts and a super nice and well made track and channel system to put the 2 parts together so i am confident that with "good epoxy/glue" it will hold on and basically fuse together and give you an almost troublesome free easy to print ankle. Honestly i do not know why it was not kept that way. I guess that Michael figured out that too many people were printing the mk2 parts with barely any walls and infill and that things broke all over the place and got some blame that he decided to fuse everything together to try to mitigate that but at the same time it make it harder to print, especially for noobs like me originally when i did these parts.

Question. Regarding the 5/16 threaded bolt. What was the length of the bolt?

I have the exact Voron 2.4 r2 as yours. Same Pi and controller but I cant get my LCD to turn on. Its strange, because if I remove the ribbon cable the voron boots up and I am able to connect to in via the ssh Voron.local browser. If I plug the ribbon back in, I get nothing on the LCD and the pi wont boot, nor can I connect via the web browser. Also when the ribbon is plugged, the green light is extremely faint. when I disconnect the ribbon, its bright green and flashes. Did you add or remove any comments from the printer.cfg Display section?

Good info Tom. Thank you.

Hey Buddy, I pretty much trying to do the same setup as you. Please how did you install the rama front idlers ? the chaotic holes for the connectors are both big (m5) but rama's are 1x m5 and 1x m3 ? what did you do ? Thanks in advance

Need help with this game as well my friend has the game cabinet with movement ect.. there are 3 games on the Cabinet bit the HArd drive dies and I have no backups or details on how this thing ran?

Hi Tom, i need your help. I'm trying to hook a marcduino master up to arduino ide and i am getting nothing on the monitor. Im about to try reapplying the hex file to it but wow... this is giving me more pain than it should. Any advice?!? What board are we supposed to select? Any and all help is appreciated!

damn that looks so GOOD. and also lightweight. the only thing i would change is those cf bars for a cnc vslot (probably won't make a difference but idk how to work with those bars)

Very happy you could share this unfortunately this is great learning for us all.

I have two Initial D3 cabinets. They both have the netdimm things. I've been thinking about trying the wipi thing, but I can't find any info showing that both could still link together. Do you think they would? Cool video btw :)

Brother, I love how clean your wiring is but there is no need to have a breakout board on the underside of the printer. In fact I would STRONGLY encourage you to do canbus. I have 4 350mm Voron Tridents and 3 of the 4 are on canbus now. Also I would suggest you ditch the Octopus and convert to a Manta M8P with an CB1 hat so you can just ditch the RPi and have a MCU that can just do canbus. The cost is not that much more for a massive QOL enhance. Personally I like having the TFT display (im using all HDMI displays but 1) and the Mini because the mini is just faster and easier to set temps and load//unload filament with.

Do you know if the metal cased house of the dead2 Naomi motherboard is capable of playing other cartridges like marvel can capcom 2? Or is the hotd2 Naomi mb only dedicated to the hotd2 board attached to it? Hope that question makes sense!

This is a pirated version (or emulated version) you can't reach realy high levels, the game had anti pirate checks and prevents you from playing high levels.

Hello, does anyone know where i can get my Sega Naomi Crazy taxi fixed?

i said before i just started printing the feet im going to have fun getting my version 1 dome to fit on my version 2 body been told it can be done but getting holes to line up and some drilling been said going to be a headache i think i read right the files for the legs and feet are all version 3 or been told to print those from version 2 to version 4 all the same files am i right on that Tom

i just started the feet and ooo boy thought the body version 2 was wild and the legs there so much going on in the files just for the feet just what i see maybe with the bearing falling out use a 3d pen to add some pla or to heat up the sides to the bearing on the problem with the pin you think you should reprint i would than use some wd40 see if that dont help the bearing slide down easier or maybe a air dryer to soften the shaft i just throwing ideas let us know what you find im about to be in the same boat

I'm starting mine today! First dome section is printing now. I know it's a long journey but I'm excited to start.

Tom i said stuff to the other vid part 40 that you did ill say dont let it become a nightmare for your self trust me im a big perfection type of person i found just go with it itll all work out a little filler primer paint no one well ever notice and itll work i myself not printed my feet yet but when i do ill slap it together and just go with it

just asking tom i got version 2 body and legs all printed what i can see version 3 and 2 are the same i havent started printing the feets yet i wasnt happy with how my lower section the base and next section of R2 body was so im reprinting the lower section than ill work on the feet ooo you filming this in my cabin cause i have the same washer and dryer lol

Which omni wheels did you use? Vex or Ali-express

What pi hat is that?

If you've ever wondered if the 1084 can be EASILY converted to a 1084S, the answer is no, the audio circuit design is completely different. The 1084 uses the volume control pot on the input (mono), which obviously doesn't work for stereo input.

I've repaired a bunch of these phillips monitors. The 1902, 1084, and 1084s are all similar. The 1902 has a monochrome green button which I once converted to monochrome amber with some resistors. Working on a 1084s right now with a bad flyback (I believe). I noticed that when monitoring the HOT collector with an oscilloscope, the pulse rang in a descending sine wave and the base signal was also distorted. When I removed the HOT the input to base was a perfect 15khz square wave. Replacing the HOT gave same effect. I figured the flyback must be damaged (diodes shorted?). Still waiting on the replacement.

Don't use endstops :)

Do yourself a favor and DO convert it to Canbus, it answers so many questions that would otherwise render unanswered. I did mine on the first build and it's been definitely worth the investment.

That cable management is on point, my trident wires are a hot mess.

Read up on the LDO Nitehawk SB kit. I think it will solve some of your issues.

Cool and thank you for the documentation. I'm still collecting all of the electronic bits in order to finally put my electronics together. Thanks for all of the handy tips. I am not looking forward to having to get into the code to add all the extras I've accumulated over the years.