Hey Sam, I was a software engineer who wrote the software for that vehicle's cluster. The steering wheel buttons are LIN buttons and the instrument cluster processes the LIN codes. The display cluster runs Linux and a graphics engine called Populus. The infotainment system in that vehicle is using MOST which is ring network topology. Cool seeing something I worked on in videos. Cheers
Thanks so much Sam i have the exact same truck and had issues with my cruise control and time to time had the issue with parking sensor. I just went to the garage and saw that the damn sensor cable was soo loose. This has happened to me b4 and dealer charged me over $600 to fix. Keep up the GREAT WORK!!!! Your saving a ton of people out there. Great videos and entertaining. Cant wait for the rest of this series.
@@dawicked2k8 i was told they needed to reprogam and change some wires but after seeing what i could of done that will never be my problem again. I hope others can see this video before taking it to the dealer if its the same problem.
South Main Auto just gave a 2nd diagnosis on a truck Dealer said needed $5k in modules and labor. In minutes he finds a Braided ground strap falling apart...fix was a $20 new cable. Saved owner $5k
I have to admit these are my favorite videos. Watching you decide to dig in and find the problem is enlightening. Common sense diagnostics for the win!
As a repair tech, you should try putting these modules in a dehydrator just like for making jerky for awhile. After that scrub it down with some 90%+ alcohol and a toothbrush and that’ll give it a possibility. Rice doesn’t work. You’d be better off with the silica packets if you feel neccessary to put it in something.
The rubbing alcohol contains water that remains after the alcohol evaporates. I usually blow it gently with compressed air to get the water out from under the components. This can create static electricity or dislodge components, some people might not like it. Usually the board has a conformal coating to keep water out. Shaking it vigorously can also help to get the water out. Put the module in a warm place for a while to dry out.
I think my first job would be to pull the front bumper and grille off the car to see if any of the wiring loom has been damaged. You already have picked up on a lot of plastic things broken, so you can better evaluate the repairs required versus replacing the whole thing.
I've seen those side detection modules cause crazy electrical problems. We've had cars towed in no start, unplug the water logged side detection modules in the rear then they start and run fine. I would unplug the side detection modules, front AND REAR. Unplug all the radar modules and sensor etc, pretty much remove front and rear bumpers, then diagnose the cars other issues, seatbelt warnings etc, then gradually put the radar systems back together amd get them working one at a time.
Sam, check the braided ground strap near front wheel well. South main auto just did a video on a 2015 Yukon and it was broken. This escalade looks to be from the salt belt
On my old 2012 CTS-V where the cold air intake box mounted there was a main ground attached to the same mounting point. It came loose and caused all sorts of codes to pop. Willing to bet and hope it's just a ground issue you're having. Good luck, Sam!
Yeah dude fuck those land rovers and most European cars after warranty is up because of the electronics don’t last and there’s so much electronic bullshit.
@@gedd6750 Automotive unicorns do exist. The occasional reliable/durable Range Rover or Land Rover doesn't reflect the ownership experiences of a overwhelming majority of people who own them. They have a well deserved reputation for poor reliability that is confirmed by endless surveys of owners and aftermarket warranty companies and are known for issues from minor niggles to catastrophic failures often at fairly low miles. Even in the United Kingdom , where you think they would benefit from some patriotism for a home product, they are #31 out of #31 marques surveyed. The highest they have rated in the last decade? Number 28 out of 31. Reliability over 100k miles really much of a challenge for a modern vehicle.
It’s always interesting to watch you diagnose a car for the first time. Always rooting for the simple fix but more often than not things become more complicated which scares me off from attempting one of these on my own.
I think that it is likely that there is damage to some of the wiring harness behind the bumper cover. I would remove that bumper cover and start tracing wires.
There is a tsb for these escalades the front bumper harness rubbs against the frame and causes all the parking sensors not to work and the radar. it rubs at the right front frame bar its really hard to see with the bumper still on. i had one replaced the harness about 10 wires were broken. and the active safety control module was fucked up still because of how long the person drove with the harness damaged.
I came looking for this type of comment. I haven't had this issue on a car per se, but this happens on motorcycles all the time. People hack the wiring harnesses all to hell with modifications. Usually if I can replace a sub harness somewhere for cheap, it clears up a lot of electrical problems. Probably worth swapping the harness since you indicated there's already a known issue.
Could you tell me where that active safety control module is? I'm having sensor issues and no cruise control and think that's the culprit. I've looked online with no good answer. Thank you.
@@jtaylor7421 your issue is most likely not the module it would be the front bumper harness chaffing, the active safety control module is just what controls that stuff. its not likely it just failed by itself. while the harness chaffing is a known issue
One thing I’ve learned being a glass installer and calibrating these Cadillacs they always have tons of codes and problems, Might not always display a light, But there’s a control module that everything ties too behind and the front bumper and even tapping the bumper in too something will cause it to break. And cause all kinda problems.
As far as ACC goes… In the middle of the bumper (on the inside) you are missing a Long Range Radar. Along with the bracket that holds that radar. You can see where it’s secured at the 7:22 mark. After installing the radar you’ll need to program it and and run it through a training/learning phase.
What I like to do with applying leather conditioner is use an old sock - turn it inside out and put over my hand. This way I apply the conditioner on the sock and rub it into hard to reach areas as opposed to using a large rag.
I very much enjoy watching you tackle these projects and finding the fixes. Paying someone at a repair shop to take the time to dig through it all would cost more than most of us would be willing to pay.
The Escalade sounds like it may be an easy fix, with some time put into it. Some of the wiring looks seems a little loose, or unclipped? Might’ve had a few people “playing around” with different systems,trying to work it out. I reckon you’re well and truly on the right road mate!! Good luck with the project.
If it had a front impact with enough force, the active seatbelts could have activated and would need replacing. That would give you some of the errors with the safety system. My daughter hit a deer in her Escape at relatively low speed (no air bag deployment) but the seatbelt activated and had to be replaced. Just a thought. Good luck...looking forward to watching the rest of this baseball game!
some systems require you to drive a certain speed for an amount of time . straight before the code clears . for toyota that 35km/h for 5 seconds . for the steering angle sensor .
Sam, here's where to start. First, take a scan tool, and attempt to communicate with every control module that is throwing a code. If you can get live data, great, you're communicating, move on. If you get one that does NOT talk, check powers and grounds. Start at the fuse - DON'T forget the box under the hood. While you're there, check the connections under that underhood fuse box - found quite a few problems from power distribution centers that have rattled the connectors loose. If that all checks out, check for power and ground AT the module. If you have that, likely to be a bad module.
Part of me says "We live in much better times for any automotive vehicle, because they are more reliable, and they have much longer service intervals." The other part of me says "Things were a lot easier, in some ways, when we had to change the oil every 5000 miles, change the plugs every 10000 miles, and always risk getting zapped by setting dwell." Er, I think I'll just pay what it takes to keep my vehicle running, and I am impressed that you: 1: Take these discards on, and: 2: Show us the good bad and ugly of dealing with them. Thanks, Samcrac!
@@elitesniper923 Yes but remember when fuel injection first hit the scene it seemed like it would be impossible to diagnose. 40 years later and we understand it pretty well, once we learned there is a fairly standard systematic diag process. Same for CAN (which has been around since the mid-2000s and proprietary networks since the early 90s probably). And the people who take the time to learn will benefit.
Working as an engineer developing such Driver Assistance Systems. Typically carmakers don’t develop such systems but buy them from big automotive companies like Bosch, Continental, Valeo,… Haven’t worked on Cadillac Systems but what I would say: - parking Systems and Cruise systems are 2 separate subsystems, sometimes delivered by completely different companies. - The ECUs you show are actually Radars module, which serve for short to medium range applications, but not in parking situations. The Escalade relies either solely on ultrasonic sensors (the dot on the bumpers) or also on cameras (not the camera in the windshield though, for parking, it would be in the bumper) - These Radar modules can either only detect objects that will be processed by another module, or even have the cruise functions running on them. - As a safety precaution, if one of these sensors go bad, typically the whole system will get degraded - In the end, I would place a strong bet that by replacing the watered module (if the remaining one is ok), that the function will resume without troubles
Looks like a nice vehicle. I would probably say pull the front bumper off , radiator and condenser , so you can check the rebar and frame rail to check if there was any intrusion to any other parts.
As a Mercedes’ tech we have similar sensors. I’m not sure they all work the same but it appears to me like it does. Those long range radar sensors (the 2 boxes) need to be mounted in 2 very specific spots on the bumper. In the dealership when this happens there is no repair. You must change the bumper for the factory mounting to work. And so a startup and calibration of the radar sensors. The small ones are not ass sensitive. Your main issue is the 2 box like radar sensors. You can try to mounts them as close as possible to the factory mounting position and get new radar sensors. Also one radar sensor is a master and one is a slave. Usually they are different part numbers. I would change both for the price and try to perform the start up and calibration. Not sure if you will see this but hope it helps if you do. Edit: they didn’t want to fix the radar sensors because for the dealer to sell the car they need to replace the entire front bumper to mount those radar sensors they’re probably a lot more when they’re brand new not used plus pay the tech flat rate to remove and replace the bumper paint the bumper and calibrate the sensors. I know I’m not doing that for 1 hour on flat rate.
I asked a friend who is a engineer,working at the assembly plant for GM,and he told me the same thing after he watched almost the hole video (he’s to busy,but can’t refuse a favor back!)! Plus he said the ECM needs a reboot by a certified technician(hacker…!?!)!
@@paparuda1968 idk about the reboot. I’ve always worked on chevys but not at the dealer. I’m not too familiar with their system. But Mercedes’ there is no reboot as far as I know. Or there is. But we just call it an “initial start up” and follow the process on the scanner and perform calibration basically the start up just wakes up the sensors. And tell the module we just put a new module.
Sam if you use a chap baking soda toothpaste on those modules then clean them in alcohol (we submerge them in a bowl) It normally does a really good job, After cleaning for good measure we put them in a food dehydrator overnight and then for good measure we spray the connections with anti-corrosion battery term spray.
Some driver assit radars need to be recalibrate after it has been repaired or in a wreck. It could be after you repair brackets and sensors re calibrate and good as new! Love the videos
Sam! A good old classic samcrac video. No shenanigans… just a dude trying to make a buck with average car repair skills. That’s what grew your channel. I hope it’s here to stay!
As a GM tech. Those front modules are super common. replace the modules and harness(take off the bumper to make it easier) usually those modules take down the circuit if theyre bad causing all kinds of electrical issues.
Yeeeeeeeesss! Entertainment. Thank you Sam, Sage and the dozens of behind the scenes writers, fixers, gaffers and film crew members that help make the Samcrac magic happen 🤩
Sam the radar for cruise control is either damaged or missing sir. Pull the bumper and check it and or replace like you did with the parking sonar. Those actually go into the bumper cover.
The sensors and I believe the modules themselves are locked to a specific vehicle so if/when you replace the parking sensors and modules you will likely have to go to a dealership to have them reprogrammed. I learned this while working at a GM body shop and a bumper from one escalade accidentally made it on to a different escalade
Wow - I really hope you made an EPIC score on this just because someone else wasn't willing to do the work you are. Seems kind of silly that a dealer wouldn't have tried to fix this and not lose huge money, but stranger things have happened.
A reputable Cadillac dealer won't want to mess/resell a Caddy that's been cobbled together like this. Much safer to sell it as is, through an auction. They likely lost no money on it as when they took it on trade, they paid accordingly for it.
@Rick Cox Dealer is the last place to get this fixed. Dealers dont have the intelligence to fix this kind of thing not to mention all the techs are on flat rate so no time to diagnose it properly. Easier to just say cant be fixed or to expensive to fix and be done
I'd bet money that it's a ground issue somewhere along the frame or the body. There's too many DTC's with different modules, it just doesn't make sense logically that all of these modules would fail at once on a relatively new vehicle.
Although it could be a grounding issue, CAN networks require continuity across the entire bus and termination resistors (usually embedded in specific modules) at each end of the bus for communication to be possible. It is quite common for a single failed module or a short/open circuit on a data line to take down the entire bus. To the scan tool this can present as many DTCs across a half dozen modules even though the root cause is a single point of failure. Check out Diagnosis Dan's channel for lots of great examples of these sorts of problems and how to trouble shoot them.
@@jordanmercier3616 You could be but I would go with your money and check and double check them every time, of course I live in the rustbelt and changing round wires is our #1 go to.
Another thing that sticks out is the front grill has a 2016 and up grill without the reef around the Cadillac logo. If you notice all the other logos on the SUV have it (SaabKyle04 pointed that out in his Escalade review).
I just picked up a 08 ford expedition 130k miles for 3k the air suspension was out I knew this. The dealer told me it didn't have rear air suspension. But I knew it did. It was out. So I fixed it . that truck is perfect...i love it. It was 55k back in 08 and it still runs perfect...it feels like I'm driving on clouds...fully loaded DVD.navigation ...all that...i also got an Cadillac ats not to impressed with the cue system the touch screen went out already...but it's a quick fun car...
Hey Sam.. I like more on this.. it's really educational. Even for the simple fixes.. who doesn't love that, huh?.. Keep up the great content!!. CHEERS!!!
I’m an electrician, auto electrical and electronics are out of my wheel house but I love troubleshooting. To watching another trade troubleshooting is usually pretty enlightening. The problem is right there in front of you all you have to do is find it.
Thanks for the great video I enjoyed seeing you luck out so far this time. Can not wait for the next one to see how it ends. Good luck and make content that makes you happy dont listen to the haters.
The module you were holding was a radar sensor, I wouldn’t even drive the vehicle with it loose, especially if it’s used for collision prevention purposes. They need to be coded, mounted perfectly and in an un damaged state. The white side should be facing outwards, you will have warnings without both installed.
Sounds like it may have been in an accident… hence the seatbelt tensioner issue. If that’s the the case it’s possibly a replacement bumper and steering wheel with airbag too which might explain those issues.
My 2015 Yukon Denali is currently saying all sorts of crazy messages, cutting out power steering and riding very rough out of the blue. Dealer just told me its some sort of electrical box underneath the truck in the rear. Waiting on the part. May not be your issue but I thought worth mentioning!
Technically not the correct front bumper, since the engine cover, gauge cluster, back and steering wheel use the older logo. The new logo on the front bumper is off of a newer Escalade. This might be why you’re getting errors if the modules don’t match
This is what I was just going to say. The car you bought is an early 2015, the bumper that's on it is from a 2015+ (late 2015-2020) Platinum. They clearly replaced the bumper, likely with one off ebay.
Water really doesn't damage circuit boards unless there's power going through the board. I'm into vintage computers and it's a common technique to put old motherboards through the dishwasher and clean with IPA. Just make sure they've dried out for several days.
Grab a can of some CRC electronic cleaner or even MAF cleaner is basically the same. It can literally fix all that water on that chip as long as nothings fried but if it has a short from the water it will completely clean it and dry the water up.
I still bump in to people now and again from that DEI training I drove us up to. THere's a weird phenomenon with my tenants alarm arms and disarms , not like when my little brother died and I hopped out of an F150 with the remote that controled the other two vehicles. I was in a hurry and it was nice to have that feature wotking. I imagine the infinite range of the newer satellite stuff is great.
Hey Samcrac, check all of your ground straps... Some of them get corroded and will cause issues like you have with this truck. There should be some ground straps on the frame connecting the frame to the body, also there are some in the engine compartment.
Wish you best of luck on fixing this one! (hopefully like Bomboyage Gaming says, a damaged front sensor harness) If it's repaired, I suggest you to install a super charger on it so we can watch your stepmom racing Alex's wife's Escalate on a track/LegitStreetCars I bet it would be an awesome showdown!!!
The front bumper is from an Escalade Platinum so the front bumper was completely replaced. I would check to see if the air bag went off in the steering wheel and the clock spring wasn’t plugged in. That could be the cause of the steering wheel controls not working.
I’m enjoying the hell out of your channel. As a child I spent a lot of time with my favorite uncle who was a race car driver and mechanic as was my grandfather who I never got to meet since he died two weeks after I was born. My uncle taught me how to work on the engine of my autos as a teenager. I was lucky enough to purchase my first car for cash when I turned 15 because my dad bought me a racehorse as my 4-H project when I was president of the club. I won enough money with the horse racing to purchase an Oldsmobile cutlass supreme off the showroom floor at the dealership. It had the 455 four barrel duel Exhaust high-performance engine with no markings. Turns out I had The fastest car at my high school when I graduated. It was a small private Catholic school for over privileged children and they were only 200 students in the whole school. I could beat the formula 400 Firebird and the Corvette because it only had a 350 engine. The cutlass was a 1970 model which was the year I turned 15. When I graduated high school I went to college in 1975 I got an Eldorado convertible which had a 501 in.³ engine. It was the largest production engine in an American car and got 8 miles to a gallon. With what my uncle taught me I could tuneup a vehicle and do minor repairs but most of the time I sent my vehicles to the dealership. They were always stock engines. The cutlass was the only car I replace the carburetor to a higher performance one with a modified intake and air breather. They were monster engines and certainly we’re gas hogs. The El Dorado was 7000 pounds and $7000 new. Of course I remember the gas prices being around $.25 a gallon when I was in high school. Don’t remember what it was when I was in college. I’m sure it had gone up five or $.10. I don’t miss working on my vehicles but I do enjoy being able to open the hood of a vehicle and knowing general mechanics even with all the modern technology. Cadillac has always been superior to Lincoln in its technology. Lincoln has a softer ride but Cadillac has a wider stance and therefore a better driving experience. I certainly enjoyed your video on finding the simple fix on your Escalade. Being able to pull up images and videos on RUclips is helpful. We used to have to get repair manuals I’ll go to the dealer and ask mechanics how to repair things on our vehicles. I remember watching mechanics climb in the engine bay of my El Dorado to set the cold choke on the carburetor by pouring water on it. I also drove a Fleetwood that was the largest production car in America in its time. It had foot rest and cocktail tables in the rear seat. My friends in college would have to sit on the edge of the seat to talk to me in the front because they Felt they were so far away they thought they were in a different room and we couldn’t hear each other. 😎
Your dad must have not charged your racehorse expenses against your racehorse winnings for you to have such a profit to buy a new car in highschool. Otherwise you would be one of the few people in the world to have shown a profit off a racehorse when expenses are factored in. Stud fees years after racing retirement are the only profit centers for the very few who make a profit from racing.
Great video as always Sam - you need a wiring diagram from All Data to be able to methodically work through. Start with Powers and Grounds to make sure they are all present.
@@chrismemphis8062 that is standard Ohio rot… the front bumper damage is most likely deer hit damage… I have hit a few in my days last time in a Camaro broke the headlight bracket and messed up the paint… pulled the bumper and replaced the headlight then sprayed the bumper
If it was a probable deer hit, there may be some residual hair fibres somewhere: bottom of the windshield, along the mirror, inside a door frame, in the radiator or elsewhere. Take a flashlight and magnifier and look everywhere.
My guess is that they drove very fast into some relatively deep water. They made it out of the water, with no interior damage, but the front end was smashed in without a lot of the normal "point" damage that you would see if something hard was hit.
Sam, safe to say that corrosion and those cheap connectors to each module are bringing down your electronics. Try disconnecting all the connector plugs in the affected systems and spraying each with an good electronic contact cleaner reassemble, then gently tap the connector on each module you suspect while having someone monitor the systems for errors or changes in their status. Just a thought.
Looks like you have an issue beyond the parking sensors. The parking sensors are on a low speed bus but I see codes for sensors on the high speed bus as well. The front camera and the long range radar module both use the same high speed bus to communicate with the Active Safety Control Module (the module that handles automatic emergency braking/lane keep assist/adaptive cruise control) located in the trunk. Being that its clear the vehicle was in a front end collision, I'd start with the long range radar module. It should be somewhere front and center around the Cadillac emblem. Ensure that its mounted securely, if it moves the system may detect a problem and disable adaptive cruise. You may need to use a scan tool to put the radar in calibration mode before the adaptive cruise control will function again. It is a bit strange that the ASCM and ECM lost communication since they talk on different buses than the radar/camera use. I'd expect a lot more DTCs if your powertrain or chassis bus had issues. Hopefully this issue was just caused by low battery voltage from it sitting and cleared once it got a bit of a charge. If you get stuck, post the DTCs that aren't clearing and I can probably point you in the right direction.
to me this looks like a win, but requires some detective work to find out what was fucked up when someone was trying to fix it. Zip tie is an indicator of the level of competence of previous owner/fixer
I noticed the front grill emblem is different from the steering wheel emblem (older style)... Could this be a replacement steering wheel due to airbag deployment? 🤷🏾♀️
the front grill is from a newer one if you look at the trunk logo its the old one early 2015 escalades came with the old logo before changing to new logo at the end of 2015
@@bobgavric Good catch!! Every automanufacturer likes those mid year changes don't they!! A co-worker of my mothers had a brand new 1995 GMC Sierra with Smoked Grey Windows factory but 2 months after he bought it theives broke in and stole some stuff. So.. He took it to get the glass replaced and dealer said sorry that color of glass isn't produced anymore. Crazy!! But that's the automakers for ya.
If the parking sensors were painted over, the paint might be too thick for the sensors to operate properly. Also, for the service driver assist it’s very common for the left side driver seat haptic feedback motor to fail. Lastly, some of those modules need to be mounted/angled to OEM spec to operate properly.
Hey Sam, you always have great content keep up the amazing work! This Escalade looks like a Chevy Tahoe conversion everything from the side view mirrors, front end, front headlights and rear lights to the steering wheel buttons not being functional. I’ve seen plenty of Chevy Tahoes and GMC Yukon conversions just wanted to put this out there maybe I’m crazy.
Yeah that was my first thought and then he mentioned rain getting in the end of it that is highly unlikely under the hood of a car is shielded from rain
I liked this video because I'm glad my older car is nowhere near as complicated as this one. And less rusty. What kind of primer are they using on the underbody? Salt water?
Looks like a broken flux capacitor! 🤣🤣🤣 Had a few of these in my days as a Tech. All mechanics run away from these kind of problems simply because there is no money to be made in a very complex and very lengthy diagnosis. I can see why a hobbyist with a lot of time on his hands would buy this just for fun and yt content. I bought a 97 4 Runner 15 years ago with a supposed hole in one of the pistons. It had no hole at all and repair cost me a couple of hundred dollars at the most. I was able to double my money and cash in on one of my best car flip investment I ever made.
It cleared said structural damage on the MMR report.. I heard you mention no accident. There was a huge discloser earlier on when you like at the 2.2 rating
But…but…what about the other Escalade from a few weeks ago lol? 37,400 miles and this thing is trashed. So sad. Can only begin to imagine what happened to it. It is interesting to see the failure points beginning to poke their heads out on these though. Lovely to see that even these are going to rust out too. I thought these would have had better metal by this generation. I know it’s all just surface from what I can see on this one, but here in Canada, give it 3-5 more years and it’ll start showing on the body. Unfortunate because I want one of these. And why was the module soapy? It literally looked like soapy water inside.
@Matthew Hurren Just going by his senses that it was soapy. Plus, I'd expect corrosion residue that got wet to be more of a paste than what we saw which looked pretty much like a foaming detergent product.
True! Any leather with a polyurethane (clear-coated) seal doesn't allow our conditioner to get through and into the leather to do its job. But, as you said, our cleaner works great on clear coated leather! Thanks for your business, we appreciate it!
I had a similar issue on my 2008 duramax 2500hd denali. I chased down every sensor and wire I could think of but the problem ended up being the airbag control module under the center console. The dealership replaced and programmed a new one for around 600 bucks and all my systems came back online with no codes or errors. Even tho my air bags were never deployed, the curb my wife hit, which caused a bent control arm, was enough of an impact to fault out that sensor.
We had a 2005 Escalade on the lot about 8 years ago. The radio would randomly come on by itself while the car was locked and sitting on the lot. The windows would also randomly go down on their own at times. Only other time I've seen the "haunted windows" was on an Altima around the same time frame.
Hey Sam, I was a software engineer who wrote the software for that vehicle's cluster. The steering wheel buttons are LIN buttons and the instrument cluster processes the LIN codes. The display cluster runs Linux and a graphics engine called Populus. The infotainment system in that vehicle is using MOST which is ring network topology. Cool seeing something I worked on in videos. Cheers
That is sweet man. So knowing how these work would u buy and drive one?
Why are you lying doh mate
@@EFFEZE and how do you know that?
A Cadillac running Linux 😂😂😂
It's people like you that ruin the Cadillac Corvette and Cadillac two biggest pieces of s*** that GM ever built
Thanks so much Sam i have the exact same truck and had issues with my cruise control and time to time had the issue with parking sensor. I just went to the garage and saw that the damn sensor cable was soo loose. This has happened to me b4 and dealer charged me over $600 to fix. Keep up the GREAT WORK!!!! Your saving a ton of people out there. Great videos and entertaining. Cant wait for the rest of this series.
Wow, $600 just to plug a cable up, what a racket! The Mafia would be proud
@@dawicked2k8 i was told they needed to reprogam and change some wires but after seeing what i could of done that will never be my problem again. I hope others can see this video before taking it to the dealer if its the same problem.
@@dawicked2k8 Welcome to Stealerships.....
South Main Auto just gave a 2nd diagnosis on a truck Dealer said needed $5k in modules and labor. In minutes he finds a Braided ground strap falling apart...fix was a $20 new cable. Saved owner $5k
Saw that south main bonding strap one. The truck was 3 years old
I have to admit these are my favorite videos. Watching you decide to dig in and find the problem is enlightening. Common sense diagnostics for the win!
To Sam…
Obviously the steering well air bag deployed so that’s why the lighting is not working correctly.
As a repair tech, you should try putting these modules in a dehydrator just like for making jerky for awhile. After that scrub it down with some 90%+ alcohol and a toothbrush and that’ll give it a possibility. Rice doesn’t work. You’d be better off with the silica packets if you feel neccessary to put it in something.
he can also put the modules and computer inside vacuum chamber that will take moisture out
@@sakabatanuki9744 he can also send them through a black hole
Rice does work, its just slow AF
Deoxit D5 is even better. I've cleaned flooded and shorted control modules in minutes with it.
The rubbing alcohol contains water that remains after the alcohol evaporates.
I usually blow it gently with compressed air to get the water out from under the components.
This can create static electricity or dislodge components, some people might not like it.
Usually the board has a conformal coating to keep water out.
Shaking it vigorously can also help to get the water out.
Put the module in a warm place for a while to dry out.
About oxidation on the module,just let it sit in vinegar for 12 hours and then rinse it with alcohol. Works like a charm with electronics.
I think my first job would be to pull the front bumper and grille off the car to see if any of the wiring loom has been damaged. You already have picked up on a lot of plastic things broken, so you can better evaluate the repairs required versus replacing the whole thing.
yeah that would the the best way to get a full idea of what exactly is going on in there
I've seen those side detection modules cause crazy electrical problems. We've had cars towed in no start, unplug the water logged side detection modules in the rear then they start and run fine. I would unplug the side detection modules, front AND REAR. Unplug all the radar modules and sensor etc, pretty much remove front and rear bumpers, then diagnose the cars other issues, seatbelt warnings etc, then gradually put the radar systems back together amd get them working one at a time.
Sam, check the braided ground strap near front wheel well. South main auto just did a video on a 2015 Yukon and it was broken. This escalade looks to be from the salt belt
Will check it out thank you very much
Was thinking the same thing, just saw that SMA video last week, those (junk) braided ground straps + rust belt vehicle = bad news.
On my old 2012 CTS-V where the cold air intake box mounted there was a main ground attached to the same mounting point. It came loose and caused all sorts of codes to pop. Willing to bet and hope it's just a ground issue you're having. Good luck, Sam!
Whooaaa fellas. That is just minor surface rust. That is not a rust belt damage yet. Not even close.
@@jackylsmith8138 yeah lol they haven't seen a real rust belt car. Where the heads of bolts become a blob of rust and flaking metal.
Mechanically totaled “Like every single Range Rover with over 30,000 miles”. 😂😂😂
Yeah dude fuck those land rovers and most European cars after warranty is up because of the electronics don’t last and there’s so much electronic bullshit.
I loved that line and it is totally true!
No it's not !!
I have a RR sport and SVR both have over 100,000 miles on them
Before them I had a discovery 4 sold at 98,000 miles.
I have a 2005 disco 3 with zero mechanical issues, the problem with luxury vehicles is everyone wants to own one, but can't afford to maintain it
@@gedd6750 Automotive unicorns do exist.
The occasional reliable/durable Range Rover or Land Rover doesn't reflect the ownership experiences of a overwhelming majority of people who own them.
They have a well deserved reputation for poor reliability that is confirmed by endless surveys of owners and aftermarket warranty companies and are known for issues from minor niggles to catastrophic failures often at fairly low miles.
Even in the United Kingdom , where you think they would benefit from some patriotism for a home product, they are #31 out of #31 marques surveyed.
The highest they have rated in the last decade?
Number 28 out of 31.
Reliability over 100k miles really much of a challenge for a modern vehicle.
It’s always interesting to watch you diagnose a car for the first time. Always rooting for the simple fix but more often than not things become more complicated which scares me off from attempting one of these on my own.
I think that it is likely that there is damage to some of the wiring harness behind the bumper cover. I would remove that bumper cover and start tracing wires.
Sound like a tech.
It's usually changed through on the right side by the impact bar
Your stepmother should approve of this one Sam. Lots of room in the back.
really enjoyed seeing her online lol
I didn't know Sam's stepmother get down like that, until I saw her videos
@@dawicked2k8 She is a nice girl , just gets herself in some tricky situations.
There is a tsb for these escalades the front bumper harness rubbs against the frame and causes all the parking sensors not to work and the radar. it rubs at the right front frame bar its really hard to see with the bumper still on. i had one replaced the harness about 10 wires were broken. and the active safety control module was fucked up still because of how long the person drove with the harness damaged.
Thank you very much for this info
@@Samcrac PIT5487F is the tsb number for it.
I came looking for this type of comment. I haven't had this issue on a car per se, but this happens on motorcycles all the time. People hack the wiring harnesses all to hell with modifications. Usually if I can replace a sub harness somewhere for cheap, it clears up a lot of electrical problems. Probably worth swapping the harness since you indicated there's already a known issue.
Could you tell me where that active safety control module is? I'm having sensor issues and no cruise control and think that's the culprit. I've looked online with no good answer. Thank you.
@@jtaylor7421 your issue is most likely not the module it would be the front bumper harness chaffing, the active safety control module is just what controls that stuff. its not likely it just failed by itself. while the harness chaffing is a known issue
One thing I’ve learned being a glass installer and calibrating these Cadillacs they always have tons of codes and problems, Might not always display a light, But there’s a control module that everything ties too behind and the front bumper and even tapping the bumper in too something will cause it to break. And cause all kinda problems.
As far as ACC goes… In the middle of the bumper (on the inside) you are missing a Long Range Radar. Along with the bracket that holds that radar. You can see where it’s secured at the 7:22 mark.
After installing the radar you’ll need to program it and and run it through a training/learning phase.
What I like to do with applying leather conditioner is use an old sock - turn it inside out and put over my hand. This way I apply the conditioner on the sock and rub it into hard to reach areas as opposed to using a large rag.
I very much enjoy watching you tackle these projects and finding the fixes. Paying someone at a repair shop to take the time to dig through it all would cost more than most of us would be willing to pay.
You just need to replace the 2 radar sensor and mostly likely program them to the truck. I had the same issue with my GMC and Buick.
The Escalade sounds like it may be an easy fix, with some time put into it.
Some of the wiring looks seems a little loose, or unclipped? Might’ve had a few people “playing around” with different systems,trying to work it out.
I reckon you’re well and truly on the right road mate!!
Good luck with the project.
If it had a front impact with enough force, the active seatbelts could have activated and would need replacing. That would give you some of the errors with the safety system. My daughter hit a deer in her Escape at relatively low speed (no air bag deployment) but the seatbelt activated and had to be replaced. Just a thought. Good luck...looking forward to watching the rest of this baseball game!
some systems require you to drive a certain speed for an amount of time . straight before the code clears . for toyota that 35km/h for 5 seconds . for the steering angle sensor .
I remember that from working at the Cadillac dealer. I think you just had to hit like 13mph to reset the parking system.
Sam, here's where to start. First, take a scan tool, and attempt to communicate with every control module that is throwing a code. If you can get live data, great, you're communicating, move on. If you get one that does NOT talk, check powers and grounds. Start at the fuse - DON'T forget the box under the hood. While you're there, check the connections under that underhood fuse box - found quite a few problems from power distribution centers that have rattled the connectors loose. If that all checks out, check for power and ground AT the module. If you have that, likely to be a bad module.
Part of me says "We live in much better times for any automotive vehicle, because they are more reliable, and they have much longer service intervals." The other part of me says "Things were a lot easier, in some ways, when we had to change the oil every 5000 miles, change the plugs every 10000 miles, and always risk getting zapped by setting dwell." Er, I think I'll just pay what it takes to keep my vehicle running, and I am impressed that you:
1: Take these discards on, and:
2: Show us the good bad and ugly of dealing with them.
Thanks, Samcrac!
Too many modules on cars now a days. You will see issues like this getting more frequent.
@@elitesniper923 Yes but remember when fuel injection first hit the scene it seemed like it would be impossible to diagnose. 40 years later and we understand it pretty well, once we learned there is a fairly standard systematic diag process. Same for CAN (which has been around since the mid-2000s and proprietary networks since the early 90s probably). And the people who take the time to learn will benefit.
@@kevin9c1
NO NO NO!!
Cadillac had Digital Fuel Injection.
Brilliant marketing to try and upsell new technology back in the day. 😂😂👍👍
Working as an engineer developing such Driver Assistance Systems. Typically carmakers don’t develop such systems but buy them from big automotive companies like Bosch, Continental, Valeo,… Haven’t worked on Cadillac Systems but what I would say:
- parking Systems and Cruise systems are 2 separate subsystems, sometimes delivered by completely different companies.
- The ECUs you show are actually Radars module, which serve for short to medium range applications, but not in parking situations. The Escalade relies either solely on ultrasonic sensors (the dot on the bumpers) or also on cameras (not the camera in the windshield though, for parking, it would be in the bumper)
- These Radar modules can either only detect objects that will be processed by another module, or even have the cruise functions running on them.
- As a safety precaution, if one of these sensors go bad, typically the whole system will get degraded
- In the end, I would place a strong bet that by replacing the watered module (if the remaining one is ok), that the function will resume without troubles
You should check the clock spring module in the steering wheel. They can go bad when the air bags are deployed.
You should get silica gel packets to dry out any wet modules. They’re wayyy more efficient at absorbing water compared to rice and a lot cleaner!
Hey sam always a pleasure watching your videos,they helped me in a time where life wasn't that great. If you read this thank you.
Looks like a nice vehicle. I would probably say pull the front bumper off , radiator and condenser , so you can check the rebar and frame rail to check if there was any intrusion to any other parts.
If they replaced the front bumper, they might have replaced the modules too. And didn't bother reprogramming them to the ECM. Just a thought.
11:17 I was searching for the completion of that video and couldn't find it. Now I got the name again I will go looking for it. Thanks buddy 😁
As a Mercedes’ tech we have similar sensors. I’m not sure they all work the same but it appears to me like it does. Those long range radar sensors (the 2 boxes) need to be mounted in 2 very specific spots on the bumper. In the dealership when this happens there is no repair. You must change the bumper for the factory mounting to work. And so a startup and calibration of the radar sensors. The small ones are not ass sensitive. Your main issue is the 2 box like radar sensors. You can try to mounts them as close as possible to the factory mounting position and get new radar sensors. Also one radar sensor is a master and one is a slave. Usually they are different part numbers. I would change both for the price and try to perform the start up and calibration. Not sure if you will see this but hope it helps if you do.
Edit: they didn’t want to fix the radar sensors because for the dealer to sell the car they need to replace the entire front bumper to mount those radar sensors they’re probably a lot more when they’re brand new not used plus pay the tech flat rate to remove and replace the bumper paint the bumper and calibrate the sensors. I know I’m not doing that for 1 hour on flat rate.
This is interesting info!
I asked a friend who is a engineer,working at the assembly plant for GM,and he told me the same thing after he watched almost the hole video (he’s to busy,but can’t refuse a favor back!)! Plus he said the ECM needs a reboot by a certified technician(hacker…!?!)!
@@paparuda1968 idk about the reboot. I’ve always worked on chevys but not at the dealer. I’m not too familiar with their system. But Mercedes’ there is no reboot as far as I know. Or there is. But we just call it an “initial start up” and follow the process on the scanner and perform calibration basically the start up just wakes up the sensors. And tell the module we just put a new module.
Sam if you use a chap baking soda toothpaste on those modules then clean them in alcohol (we submerge them in a bowl) It normally does a really good job, After cleaning for good measure we put them in a food dehydrator overnight and then for good measure we spray the connections with anti-corrosion battery term spray.
Some driver assit radars need to be recalibrate after it has been repaired or in a wreck. It could be after you repair brackets and sensors re calibrate and good as new! Love the videos
Sam! A good old classic samcrac video. No shenanigans… just a dude trying to make a buck with average car repair skills. That’s what grew your channel. I hope it’s here to stay!
The problem will be somewhere within a twelve foot radius around the driver's seat.
😂😂😂
@@christopherhamilton5557 yo wtf
???
@@christopherhamilton4373 😂😂😂, RUclips, I promise we aren’t related!!!
@@christopherhamilton5557 i had to double take
As a GM tech. Those front modules are super common. replace the modules and harness(take off the bumper to make it easier) usually those modules take down the circuit if theyre bad causing all kinds of electrical issues.
Yeeeeeeeesss! Entertainment. Thank you Sam, Sage and the dozens of behind the scenes writers, fixers, gaffers and film crew members that help make the Samcrac magic happen 🤩
Sam the radar for cruise control is either damaged or missing sir. Pull the bumper and check it and or replace like you did with the parking sonar. Those actually go into the bumper cover.
Also clear all the codes and start over after sourcing the Acc radar
The sensors and I believe the modules themselves are locked to a specific vehicle so if/when you replace the parking sensors and modules you will likely have to go to a dealership to have them reprogrammed. I learned this while working at a GM body shop and a bumper from one escalade accidentally made it on to a different escalade
Maybe time to upgrade to a better scanner, or buy access to the GM software.
Also check all ground straps for corrosion and ware ! Front and rear strapes should be replaced .
Wow - I really hope you made an EPIC score on this just because someone else wasn't willing to do the work you are. Seems kind of silly that a dealer wouldn't have tried to fix this and not lose huge money, but stranger things have happened.
A reputable Cadillac dealer won't want to mess/resell a Caddy that's been cobbled together like this. Much safer to sell it as is, through an auction. They likely lost no money on it as when they took it on trade, they paid accordingly for it.
@Rick Cox Dealer is the last place to get this fixed. Dealers dont have the intelligence to fix this kind of thing not to mention all the techs are on flat rate so no time to diagnose it properly. Easier to just say cant be fixed or to expensive to fix and be done
Down the rabbit hole! You are in for a very very long twisting and turning repair journey. Best of luck!
Don’t listen to the haters Sam take your time on these projects do em right 🙌🏼
The more time he takes, the least probabilities of him finishing them.
My SRT hood has a broken grille too, excited to see your work-around that $250 plastic mesh
I'd bet money that it's a ground issue somewhere along the frame or the body. There's too many DTC's with different modules, it just doesn't make sense logically that all of these modules would fail at once on a relatively new vehicle.
who says they failed all at once?
Although it could be a grounding issue, CAN networks require continuity across the entire bus and termination resistors (usually embedded in specific modules) at each end of the bus for communication to be possible. It is quite common for a single failed module or a short/open circuit on a data line to take down the entire bus. To the scan tool this can present as many DTCs across a half dozen modules even though the root cause is a single point of failure.
Check out Diagnosis Dan's channel for lots of great examples of these sorts of problems and how to trouble shoot them.
@@heaphack1088 good point, I could definitely be wrong.
@@jordanmercier3616 You could be but I would go with your money and check and double check them every time, of course I live in the rustbelt and changing round wires is our #1 go to.
Ford has entered the chat...hold my beer🤣🤣😅😅😆
Nice! Finally a working Range Rover on your channel. Great job fixing it! And the original outro music is still going strong, cool!
Another thing that sticks out is the front grill has a 2016 and up grill without the reef around the Cadillac logo. If you notice all the other logos on the SUV have it (SaabKyle04 pointed that out in his Escalade review).
I just picked up a 08 ford expedition 130k miles for 3k the air suspension was out I knew this. The dealer told me it didn't have rear air suspension. But I knew it did. It was out. So I fixed it . that truck is perfect...i love it. It was 55k back in 08 and it still runs perfect...it feels like I'm driving on clouds...fully loaded DVD.navigation ...all that...i also got an Cadillac ats not to impressed with the cue system the touch screen went out already...but it's a quick fun car...
Can't wait to see how this project turns out... I'm a GM truck fan myself.
Hilarious, this is Sam’s channel, if you want to see completed projects, best go sub to a different channel 😂😂😂
@@dbk81 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
-Check front parking sensor wiring harness
-Check Safety system module
-Recheck ground straps?
-Replace front radar sencers
-Complete ADAS calibration (Not sure how it's done on this)
Hey Sam.. I like more on this.. it's really educational. Even for the simple fixes.. who doesn't love that, huh?.. Keep up the great content!!. CHEERS!!!
I’m an electrician, auto electrical and electronics are out of my wheel house but I love troubleshooting. To watching another trade troubleshooting is usually pretty enlightening. The problem is right there in front of you all you have to do is find it.
Thanks for the great video I enjoyed seeing you luck out so far this time. Can not wait for the next one to see how it ends. Good luck and make content that makes you happy dont listen to the haters.
Put vinegar on the board to stop the corrosion, then clean with IPA, and after that use PCB lacquer. It will make the module waterproof.
Sam that is a sharp truck! I hope you can get it going without busting your budget!
The module you were holding was a radar sensor, I wouldn’t even drive the vehicle with it loose, especially if it’s used for collision prevention purposes. They need to be coded, mounted perfectly and in an un damaged state. The white side should be facing outwards, you will have warnings without both installed.
Sounds like it may have been in an accident… hence the seatbelt tensioner issue. If that’s the the case it’s possibly a replacement bumper and steering wheel with airbag too which might explain those issues.
My 2015 Yukon Denali is currently saying all sorts of crazy messages, cutting out power steering and riding very rough out of the blue. Dealer just told me its some sort of electrical box underneath the truck in the rear. Waiting on the part. May not be your issue but I thought worth mentioning!
Technically not the correct front bumper, since the engine cover, gauge cluster, back and steering wheel use the older logo. The new logo on the front bumper is off of a newer Escalade. This might be why you’re getting errors if the modules don’t match
This is what I was just going to say. The car you bought is an early 2015, the bumper that's on it is from a 2015+ (late 2015-2020) Platinum. They clearly replaced the bumper, likely with one off ebay.
I noticed this right away too.
Water really doesn't damage circuit boards unless there's power going through the board. I'm into vintage computers and it's a common technique to put old motherboards through the dishwasher and clean with IPA. Just make sure they've dried out for several days.
11:15 if it's just rain water it might be able to be fixed
Grab a can of some CRC electronic cleaner or even MAF cleaner is basically the same. It can literally fix all that water on that chip as long as nothings fried but if it has a short from the water it will completely clean it and dry the water up.
I kind miss the good old days when Sam only fixed cars with physical damage. Those days were more simple.
I still bump in to people now and again from that DEI training I drove us up to. THere's a weird phenomenon with my tenants alarm arms and disarms , not like when my little brother died and I hopped out of an F150 with the remote that controled the other two vehicles. I was in a hurry and it was nice to have that feature wotking. I imagine the infinite range of the newer satellite stuff is great.
Hey Samcrac, check all of your ground straps... Some of them get corroded and will cause issues like you have with this truck. There should be some ground straps on the frame connecting the frame to the body, also there are some in the engine compartment.
A circuit is only as good as its ground.
Sam , I have a Great feeling about this car. Please continue to meet the budget, I feel this is a hidden gem. Best of luck!
3:56 I bet they sprayed over the sensors hence they aren't working properly...let's see if I'm right......
I like how you explained everything you were doin with all the sensors. Wish you were my mechanic!
Wish you best of luck on fixing this one! (hopefully like Bomboyage Gaming says, a damaged front sensor harness) If it's repaired, I suggest you to install a super charger on it so we can watch your stepmom racing Alex's wife's Escalate on a track/LegitStreetCars I bet it would be an awesome showdown!!!
The front bumper is from an Escalade Platinum so the front bumper was completely replaced. I would check to see if the air bag went off in the steering wheel and the clock spring wasn’t plugged in. That could be the cause of the steering wheel controls not working.
High temperature clutch. “that is not great” 😂.
Wicked SMOOTH transition to the leather conditioner promo! Props!😏
I’m enjoying the hell out of your channel. As a child I spent a lot of time with my favorite uncle who was a race car driver and mechanic as was my grandfather who I never got to meet since he died two weeks after I was born. My uncle taught me how to work on the engine of my autos as a teenager. I was lucky enough to purchase my first car for cash when I turned 15 because my dad bought me a racehorse as my 4-H project when I was president of the club. I won enough money with the horse racing to purchase an Oldsmobile cutlass supreme off the showroom floor at the dealership. It had the 455 four barrel duel Exhaust high-performance engine with no markings. Turns out I had The fastest car at my high school when I graduated. It was a small private Catholic school for over privileged children and they were only 200 students in the whole school. I could beat the formula 400 Firebird and the Corvette because it only had a 350 engine. The cutlass was a 1970 model which was the year I turned 15. When I graduated high school I went to college in 1975 I got an Eldorado convertible which had a 501 in.³ engine. It was the largest production engine in an American car and got 8 miles to a gallon. With what my uncle taught me I could tuneup a vehicle and do minor repairs but most of the time I sent my vehicles to the dealership. They were always stock engines. The cutlass was the only car I replace the carburetor to a higher performance one with a modified intake and air breather. They were monster engines and certainly we’re gas hogs. The El Dorado was 7000 pounds and $7000 new. Of course I remember the gas prices being around $.25 a gallon when I was in high school. Don’t remember what it was when I was in college. I’m sure it had gone up five or $.10. I don’t miss working on my vehicles but I do enjoy being able to open the hood of a vehicle and knowing general mechanics even with all the modern technology. Cadillac has always been superior to Lincoln in its technology. Lincoln has a softer ride but Cadillac has a wider stance and therefore a better driving experience. I certainly enjoyed your video on finding the simple fix on your Escalade. Being able to pull up images and videos on RUclips is helpful. We used to have to get repair manuals I’ll go to the dealer and ask mechanics how to repair things on our vehicles. I remember watching mechanics climb in the engine bay of my El Dorado to set the cold choke on the carburetor by pouring water on it. I also drove a Fleetwood that was the largest production car in America in its time. It had foot rest and cocktail tables in the rear seat. My friends in college would have to sit on the edge of the seat to talk to me in the front because they Felt they were so far away they thought they were in a different room and we couldn’t hear each other. 😎
Your dad must have not charged your racehorse expenses against your racehorse winnings for you to have such a profit to buy a new car in highschool. Otherwise you would be one of the few people in the world to have shown a profit off a racehorse when expenses are factored in. Stud fees years after racing retirement are the only profit centers for the very few who make a profit from racing.
Great video as always Sam - you need a wiring diagram from All Data to be able to methodically work through. Start with Powers and Grounds to make sure they are all present.
I'm a simple man, I see a Samcrac new video notification I click it
Sam's Segway's to his sponsors are second to none!
I’m betting it’s a deer hit… that is common damage for that
Not with those sway bar links
@@chrismemphis8062 that is standard Ohio rot… the front bumper damage is most likely deer hit damage… I have hit a few in my days last time in a Camaro broke the headlight bracket and messed up the paint… pulled the bumper and replaced the headlight then sprayed the bumper
Deer walked away as if nothing happen
If it was a probable deer hit, there may be some residual hair fibres somewhere: bottom of the windshield, along the mirror, inside a door frame, in the radiator or elsewhere. Take a flashlight and magnifier and look everywhere.
My guess is that they drove very fast into some relatively deep water. They made it out of the water, with no interior damage, but the front end was smashed in without a lot of the normal "point" damage that you would see if something hard was hit.
Sam, safe to say that corrosion and those cheap connectors to each module are bringing down your electronics. Try disconnecting all the connector plugs in the affected systems and spraying each with an good electronic contact cleaner reassemble, then gently tap the connector on each module you suspect while having someone monitor the systems for errors or changes in their status.
Just a thought.
Looks like you have an issue beyond the parking sensors. The parking sensors are on a low speed bus but I see codes for sensors on the high speed bus as well.
The front camera and the long range radar module both use the same high speed bus to communicate with the Active Safety Control Module (the module that handles automatic emergency braking/lane keep assist/adaptive cruise control) located in the trunk. Being that its clear the vehicle was in a front end collision, I'd start with the long range radar module. It should be somewhere front and center around the Cadillac emblem. Ensure that its mounted securely, if it moves the system may detect a problem and disable adaptive cruise. You may need to use a scan tool to put the radar in calibration mode before the adaptive cruise control will function again.
It is a bit strange that the ASCM and ECM lost communication since they talk on different buses than the radar/camera use. I'd expect a lot more DTCs if your powertrain or chassis bus had issues. Hopefully this issue was just caused by low battery voltage from it sitting and cleared once it got a bit of a charge.
If you get stuck, post the DTCs that aren't clearing and I can probably point you in the right direction.
Bent front rim inside passenger side. Saw it when you were showing the sway bar end links. Love your channel.
to me this looks like a win, but requires some detective work to find out what was fucked up when someone was trying to fix it. Zip tie is an indicator of the level of competence of previous owner/fixer
Probly a really shady used car dealer that really really sucked
Also shows how cheaply an " expensive" vehicle is made. New sub👍
I noticed the front grill emblem is different from the steering wheel emblem (older style)... Could this be a replacement steering wheel due to airbag deployment? 🤷🏾♀️
the front grill is from a newer one if you look at the trunk logo its the old one early 2015 escalades came with the old logo before changing to new logo at the end of 2015
@@shalinsheejo6052 and that is why it dont work, truck is 2015 and grill is 2015i escalade, they changed logo and electronics behind it grill.
@@bobgavric
Good catch!! Every automanufacturer likes those mid year changes don't they!!
A co-worker of my mothers had a brand new 1995 GMC Sierra with Smoked Grey Windows factory but 2 months after he bought it theives broke in and stole some stuff.
So..
He took it to get the glass replaced and dealer said sorry that color of glass isn't produced anymore.
Crazy!! But that's the automakers for ya.
If the parking sensors were painted over, the paint might be too thick for the sensors to operate properly. Also, for the service driver assist it’s very common for the left side driver seat haptic feedback motor to fail. Lastly, some of those modules need to be mounted/angled to OEM spec to operate properly.
Flood vehicle, makes perfect sense on why nothing works. I can only imagine, what else is going to fail in the coming years.
Maybe into the drink and hit something
You can check if the sensors are working by holding your phone close to it with recorder on. It should pickup the signal
Welcome to the channel where you’ll see a car, never see it completed, or ever hear about it again. 🤷🏼♂️
Hey Sam, you always have great content keep up the amazing work! This Escalade looks like a Chevy Tahoe conversion everything from the side view mirrors, front end, front headlights and rear lights to the steering wheel buttons not being functional. I’ve seen plenty of Chevy Tahoes and GMC Yukon conversions just wanted to put this out there maybe I’m crazy.
Was this truck under water? A lot of rust for less than 40k miles.
You obviously don’t live somewhere with harsh weather and salted roads.
Yeah that was my first thought and then he mentioned rain getting in the end of it that is highly unlikely under the hood of a car is shielded from rain
“Ohio”
It's from Ohio and has been exposed to salted roads.
It's normal for a vehicle in the "RUST BELT".
@@Pugjamin NYC. And my 2006 Dodge Charger purchased new and owned by the government for 8 years and it doesn’t have near as much rust.
I liked this video because I'm glad my older car is nowhere near as complicated as this one. And less rusty. What kind of primer are they using on the underbody? Salt water?
Looks like a broken flux capacitor! 🤣🤣🤣 Had a few of these in my days as a Tech. All mechanics run away from these kind of problems simply because there is no money to be made in a very complex and very lengthy diagnosis. I can see why a hobbyist with a lot of time on his hands would buy this just for fun and yt content. I bought a 97 4 Runner 15 years ago with a supposed hole in one of the pistons. It had no hole at all and repair cost me a couple of hundred dollars at the most. I was able to double my money and cash in on one of my best car flip investment I ever made.
OK professor.
It cleared said structural damage on the MMR report.. I heard you mention no accident. There was a huge discloser earlier on when you like at the 2.2 rating
But…but…what about the other Escalade from a few weeks ago lol?
37,400 miles and this thing is trashed. So sad. Can only begin to imagine what happened to it. It is interesting to see the failure points beginning to poke their heads out on these though. Lovely to see that even these are going to rust out too. I thought these would have had better metal by this generation. I know it’s all just surface from what I can see on this one, but here in Canada, give it 3-5 more years and it’ll start showing on the body. Unfortunate because I want one of these. And why was the module soapy? It literally looked like soapy water inside.
They ran it through a car wash before the photo session for the auction?
@Matthew Hurren Just going by his senses that it was soapy. Plus, I'd expect corrosion residue that got wet to be more of a paste than what we saw which looked pretty much like a foaming detergent product.
Sam it is best to clean electronics with a ultrasonic cleaner and Branson EC it often brings them back to life.
Leather honey doesn’t work on clear-coated leather. The cleaner is good, though.
Does it work on vegan leather? That's what my car has.
@@StormsparkPegasus nah. Vegan leather is Vinyl - so just a regular PH-neutral all purpose or interior specific cleaner is all you need.
True! Any leather with a polyurethane (clear-coated) seal doesn't allow our conditioner to get through and into the leather to do its job. But, as you said, our cleaner works great on clear coated leather! Thanks for your business, we appreciate it!
Vegan leather. LOLOL that’s the funniest shit I have ever heard.
@@midwestmafia8391 I mean, I won't argue that the name is stupid. But the material exists, and is fine.
I had a similar issue on my 2008 duramax 2500hd denali. I chased down every sensor and wire I could think of but the problem ended up being the airbag control module under the center console. The dealership replaced and programmed a new one for around 600 bucks and all my systems came back online with no codes or errors. Even tho my air bags were never deployed, the curb my wife hit, which caused a bent control arm, was enough of an impact to fault out that sensor.
Let's race!
I just want my parking sensors to work.
We had a 2005 Escalade on the lot about 8 years ago. The radio would randomly come on by itself while the car was locked and sitting on the lot. The windows would also randomly go down on their own at times. Only other time I've seen the "haunted windows" was on an Altima around the same time frame.
Check the clockspring in the steering wheel. Might be damaged if the airbag went off
I think you should ask your step mom what she thinks might be wrong with it. She's always wanting to help you finish. She might be a good resource...