My favorite sounds are GM's Chimes every time you move in the car, but they sound even better on Raycons: Go to buyraycon.com/samcrac for 15% off your order! Brought to you by Raycon
yes ive seen bad low voltage battery can cause issues with car running fine and give engine light. Ive reproduce this in gm car . After getting battery with larger amps problem was fixed .
What I love about Sam is that he is worth a decent amount of money from his channel and various other incomes, but he likes to stick to a budget and even mentioned not being able to justify buying a $600-$700 professional battery tester when he could very well afford it. Idk why but it makes me so happy to hear him say that and not blow all of his money lol! Awesome channel, keep it up!
That's a great tip. I've been using a seat belt cutter, but I think the sewing seam ripper will do a much better job. Smaller tip and much better handle.
A hook blade for a utility knife that is used for roofing would work even better because it gives you a sharp Cutting Edge and does the same thing as a seam ripper.
It’s an Econo Power battery which means it’s a interstate batteries reconditioned battery. They remove all stickers and sell it much cheaper. Edit: I worked for Interstate Batteries driving the truck . We would take core returns and place them on trickle chargers for 24 hours and then do a battery test. If they passed we rebrand them with “Econo Power” stickers and sell them . If they failed we recycle them . They could be batteries from any manufacturer .
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists It might not be. My father was a tech for a LONG time... policy at the dealerships was to replace bad batteries with new ones. One of the guys he worked with would take the old batteries and drop them on the ground (sometimes old batteries would accumulate around the cells, making them unable to complete a circuit, and the jolt of dropping them could clear the accumulation). Batteries would work for another couple of years sometimes. Dude never spent a dime on batteries lol.
Electrical issues often are complicated and hard to diagnose....so....the more detailed your explanation, the better. I always appreciate your diving head-first into these problems whether or not you have experience or insight. Sam...You Are The Man!
I really appreciate you going into great detail when it comes to the wiring. It is one of the most confusion things when it comes to figuring out what is wrong. Thank your videos I enjoy watching them and learning.
well he's definitely correct about how a weak battery can cause computers can cause computer problems my bmw i3s has a weak battery now and when the winter temp bottoms out the battery's to weak and causes the computer to report drivetrain fault indicating the drivetrains over heating and other faults to during startup bmw says the battery's fine in warmer ether due to me not being able to get it in during that weather
@samcrac yes those square radar sensors should be programmed to your specific car. Even if it's a good used one it probably won't work until it's programmed with gm tds. The waterlogged radar may work for a short while now that it's dry but I assure you it's not gonna last . As far as attaching the left radar goes....idk how you could rig it. An ideal way would be to rob a bracket off of another smashed bumper. Alternatively without a bracket perhaps silicone or epoxy around the edges might just work. It needs to be located as close to the oe spot as possible. Don't put any adhesive on the front white part or it's never gonna work correctly. Last of all...**** On every gm I've fixed to date the radar sensors go in with the white part facing the bumper cover/looking outward***** the white side is where the radar signal comes out of to detect objects on the road for collision avoidance, cruise control, etc etc Keep plugging away homie.
The electrical is the greatest mystery to those of us trying to do it ourselves. Getting into that in as much depth as possible is a HUGE help. For instance, the battery charger tip that does diagnostics - HUGE help.
Heck yes Sam, this video is super helpful, you have got me watching all the end of life dead car auctions in my country, I like you have enough smarts to solve most problems and with what can be found online, this is a great way to get a nice car/Ute for a bargain.Keep up the good work mate. 🇳🇿👍🇺🇸💪
I like this video because you are very thorough on the electrical diagnosis, your delivery on it makes it engaging, so I would keep up with it. Thank you for the great content!
1:47 It's called a surface charge. When a load is placed on the battery, the high internal resistance of a bad cell becomes a load and there is a voltage drop across it, which is why the potential drops like a rock.
Just starting the video but one thing I instantly noticed is that bumper, or at least the grille doesn’t belong to that car. 2015 for the first half didn’t use the newer emblem. It should have had the one you see on the engine cover and steering wheel and rear gate. Definitely replaced.
I really enjoy, these electrical videos. A lot of RUclipsrs don’t really do these in depth diagnostics. Please keep Doing these. I really enjoy this series, and the Ferrari series. ❤
This video had a TON of great/interesting info. I like that you got in the weeds on testing everything. The stapler was cool, as well as that battery tester. No matter how technical your videos get, they're never boring. You use tools and methods available to most people.
Cadillac owners are probably mad cuz he keeps calling it a Chevy truck lol.... I own the Escalade EXT and it's pretty much a Chevy Avalanche but people get mad when you say that.. lol
Ya I find that funny, I find it funnier when they think the Escalade is faster than my wife’s Denali. The look on their face when it sinks in that the running works are the same lol
17:48 - When you plugged in the "new" passenger side radar sensor into its bumper holder, the white radar transparent window needs to face forward. If you imagine the radar module being a "camera", the white window is the camera's "lens" and needs to face forward so it can see the cars in front of the vehicle.
On some vehicles, radar modules are self-calibrating (e.g. Volvo cross traffic modules) and others need to be put into a calibration mode via a diagnostic tool. Double check for this year of Escalade.
Analog meters allow you to observe "grass on the field" or AC ripple. Digital meters average out the reading and usually don't show you those fluctuations. An oscilloscope really shows this.
The other topdon tester you have shows a constant voltage on the screen. I bought one. I never thought to pull the fuel pump fuse, but you should be able to check the voltage while cranking with it. My avalanche shows 12.7 when not running and 14.7 while running.
It may sound crazy, but I love diagnosing electrical issues on vehicles. And what I have found over the years is what seems so complicated turned out to be very simple. It's a matter of knowing where to focus your attention in the spaghetti farm. And that's exactly what you did, and figured it out on the cheap. Well done!
Thanks for the great video. Seems like some one someone who wasn't very skilled or was in a hurry fixed it in the first place. I'm surprised the front bumper didn't just fall off. Thanks for informative content and vehicle update.
Hey Sam, just wanted to drop a comment and say I recently found your channel and have binged all of your videos. Love watching you work through diagnosing a complex issue and the ensuing repair job. Keep up the good work
I don't know a lot about cars, but I really like your approach to repairs. You find the problem, and fix it right. When you found those chafed wires and replaced the whole harness, I was blown away. I already spend too much time watching RUclips and now you've made that problem a lot worse. But at least it will be your channel that I'll be watching.
I bought same escalade year atound the same time you did but mines a luxury model and we love it. I did notice transmission was shuddering but a simple fluid and filter change with the revised mobile one fluid made it about 90% better other than that just small little details like trim panels and that sliding thing in front of the cup holder doesn't stay open, it will all get fixed but it's a solid truck
2:02 it's quite simple. Your battery has internal resistance. As it cycles and the internal structures break away, that resistance goes up. Although loading it will give a good test to how it actually performs, don't need to load it. You can calculate that resistance with a multimeter and simple math. No fancy tools required.
2:44 the old school battery testers had a heating element inside....you connected it, read the voltage and when you tested, it used the heating element to put a heavy load on the battery, release the trigger and check the recovery time/voltage. BTW: 12.75 volts is average. IN addition, the reason just reading the volts of the battery won't tell you if it's good because volts isn't an indication of capacity. Amperage is. Think of a tube or pipe to move water. Voltage is the diameter of the pipe and amperage is the pressure/volume of the water inside the pipe. You might have a large diameter pipe running to your shower but without pressure behind it, you're not going to have a very good shower. Soon as you turn on the faucet the pressure will drop and you won't get very much water out of the shower head. Or the other head if your step mother is in there with you.
Amazing video and real admiration for people like you who know so much about cars. Man wish I was exposed to learning about cars more when I was younger
Thanks you for the insight👍👍👌 information bought a used SRX and the only issue I have is the park assist radar system. I replaced all the sensors and module. Yet, it still doesn't work, but thanks to you I have much better insight.
Hi Sam... Been on the same road with water in blind spot module. Same exact module. You have on one side master and on other one slave. Master if damaged must be programed to tje VIN. Slave is just a dumb computer beeing a slave to the master. So if you bought old master, it is locked to previous VIN. Seatbelt pretension is also part of that module. When it senses pedestrian or car it pretensions the belt to prepare for impact. So you should after programing that sensor get rid of both errors at the same time... I was doing it on Buick Regal which is GM like you Cadillac.
@@BillGates_Alex yes... bought buick regal sensors which is the same as opel insignia... had them coded to my vin... only one does coding in my country. Even opel could not do it.
As usual, great video Another option for testing sensors, feel the sensor with your finger and if you feel a vibration then voltage is coming to the sensor
So the car was crashed, but not reported. repaired cheaply and no insurance claim. Then dumped at auction. Sounds like a perfect Samcrac buy. Good job Sam. And since I would never consider buying an Escalade I had never heard of these electrical issues so I learned something new.
Top tip per Ivan at Pine Hollow. There is a wire bundle that connects to the trans. The bundle rubs on a bracket right by the trans connector. Ends with a short back to the computers.
Multi meter is fine to test: 1) test voltage with the ignition off (make sure it’s stable). 2) test voltage with the engine running and accessories off (it should be over 13.8v ideally). 3) test voltage with fans, demisters, lights, etc. on and the voltage should still remain stable and over 13v. Loving your videos!
You explain technical stuff very well, so it's easy to watch how you diagnose stuff. I say to not cut off some of the important troubleshooting so we get the whole picture.
The hot stapler is one of my favorite tools, when I use it I do a small rotation of the staple as the final movement before letting go of the heat button. That way I lock it in, inside the plastic, they tend to stick better, that is my experience.
So I learned the same thing with the multimeter. You can check to make sure the battery has the volts it needs. But that multimeter does not check the amps which is like the muscle in the battery. I checked a battery in a Neon that wouldn't start years ago, it had volts and the lights would come on in the car but the car wouldn't turn over. So I replaced the starter and it did the same thing. I had the car towed and an hour later the mechanic called and told me he replaced the battery and I was good to go. I was flabbergasted and he explained the volts verses amps to me. Another lesson learned.
Dealing with action cars is the most stressful job known to man. I’ve never seen this guy get mad and throw something, he just orders more parts and waits, he makes his job easier by having a good attitude (and there no boss rushing him to get the car done)
I love the video Sam. In my opinion please do not skip through all the technical stuff. I am learning a ton. And even though I may never own this vehicle because I have a lot of friends that are car enthusiasts they might and it might provide good information for the future. Keep up what you're doing I appreciate all the time and effort you put into these videos.
Schumacher BT-100 Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter - 100 Amp is what I use, (worked at a salvage yard) about 45.00 sold a lot of used batteries never had one come back.
Yes Sam, these videos decoded the electronic sensor array paradigm and how to readi all the technical signs to divine what's actually present on a "repaired" deeply discounted auction 💎 gem! Yes you educate us to tackle these projects, which many dealer's only fix by big buck 💰 total replacement repairs! Yeah this one gave us all the techniques which greatly simplify such a 🚀 rocket 🔭 science project! Thanks 🙏Sam! 😎
Keep up the detailed fixes, nothing sucks more then informational videos that lack the basic information! Thanks Sam, your the best, keep u0 the good work!
I had a Tahoe of similar year with a bunch of electrical gremlins in multiple systems. The power cable that runs over the top of the engine bay had a bad crimp. Soldered the eyelets on and that resolved the issues. I'm pretty sure there was a TSB for it as well.
I love everything about cars and learning but always hated electrical and I think it’s because it’s always been a pain in my ass and I don’t understand things I can’t see so it’s nice to hear and see some new tips!
Sam, always throw in tidbits. And go as deep into subjects as you like. (Not a royalty thing) but there are ALWAYS others that learn from you such as myself. Thanks for the great content. I hate when a you tuber gets popular, then starts glossing over things. Then I unsubscribe from them because they are no longer who I want to watch. Keep up the great work.
I've seen some other comments about the battery thing, but I've seen a few key points missing. This is a little bit technical but it shouldn't require an EE degree to understand. The basic thing is this, any load you put across the battery can be thought of as a resistor when oversimplified. This resistor is in series with the internal resistance of the battery. This creates something called a voltage divider. Basically, it just means that the total voltage of the battery will be split proportionally between these two resistors based on their ratio of resistance. Some is "lost" inside the battery and the rest is what you see at the terminals. The bigger resistor always gets more of the voltage So as the internal resistance of the battery gets bigger and bigger, more of the battery's voltage is lost to that internal resistance leaving less for the rest of the car. A side note is that the multimeter represents a very, very large resistance on the voltage setting. It's so much bigger than the internal resistance of the battery that it will 'see' most of the voltage. What makes this a bit complicated is that the internal resistance can vary depending on how many amps are being pulled from the battery. So that internal resistance won't be the same when cranking the car over vs when the car is just running in accessory mode. So you might get the dash to light up OK and the voltage might test OK this way, but the voltage will sag when trying to crank the engine causing problems starting the car.
A multimeter is o.k to use to test a battery, the way to do it is to get somebody to start the car while you're looking at the multimeter readings and see how much the voltage drops by while it starts.
Officially given up hope that you'll complete a story arc by showing subscribers the conclusion of your Mustang rebuild / repaint / reupholster. Is the grass around it up past the doorsills now? For now it's "Short-Attention-Span" theater for those of us watching you spend money on notoriously-always-breaking Bentleys, high-mileage BMWs, and Ferrari convertibles with enough electrical issues to be titled "Gremlins 3: The Prancing Horse."
As a general motors lover but a new car hater it's great to see electrical problems (this one anyway) aren't really that bad once you dive into it💯👑❤️💪🏿
Great episode. This really shows how some people have found ways to defeat the computer vehicle records tracking by keeping it out of the system and doing half assed repairs, then dumping it on a dealer.
Sometimes that "smaller stuff" provides us with many hours of a hair-pulling adventure! I personally spent days searching out an electrical wiring problem that ended up being an easy fix, those service bulletins really com in handy.
Sam you can remove overspray really easily with WD-40 and a white magic eraser! Let's say of plastic or paint or glass but if you need to remove those pesky auction paint markers on: Glass - brake clean + microfiber (careful don't get it on the clear coat) Bumper/plastic - WD40 + white magic eraser Car paint - acetone + microfiber
The battery has internal resistance which "consumes" voltage. When nothing is turned on, all the voltage draw is across the battery so it will read fine. However, when another sort of load is placed on the battery, the load and the battery now both "consume" voltage so the internal resistance of the battery is now significant enough to effect it's overall provided voltage. Source - physics teacher.
Great troubleshooting video! I'm really enjoying your process of getting this Escalade back on the road. I typically I focus on Ferrari, Lambo, and Porsche diagnostics videos, but this one, the BMW, and the Touareg have been great. Keep up the great work.
A multimeter only tests voltage output, in this case, with no load. An analog old style battery tester, normally uses a low resistance, high current load (basically an electric heating element,) and tests voltage drop with that havy load on the battery, to estimate the current output capabilities in cranking amps. Voltage, in this case, can be thought of like pressure in a water piping system. If there is not a path to a "drain" there is no flow(current). If there is a huge enough opening to drain (short circuit or very low resistance high current load,) the pressure will drop, and the tank(batttery) will drain very quickly. If a battery is weak, can be thought of like having a somewhat, or greatly reduced tank diameter. The height, that detrmines pressure, is the same, but when you draw a current of water from it, there is not as much water(power) available to flow, and pressure(voltage) will drop sooner and more drastically, with the same load/opening.
My favorite sounds are GM's Chimes every time you move in the car, but they sound even better on Raycons: Go to buyraycon.com/samcrac for 15% off your order! Brought to you by Raycon
Dude what happened to your left hand? ✋👨🔧
yes ive seen bad low voltage battery can cause issues with car running fine and give engine light. Ive reproduce this in gm car . After getting battery with larger amps problem was fixed .
7⁷
I like lots of detail. I have a yukon and like to do all I can on it myself. Thanks for the videos.
if the car has stop start then the battery should probably be agm or gel.
What I love about Sam is that he is worth a decent amount of money from his channel and various other incomes, but he likes to stick to a budget and even mentioned not being able to justify buying a $600-$700 professional battery tester when he could very well afford it. Idk why but it makes me so happy to hear him say that and not blow all of his money lol! Awesome channel, keep it up!
He probably said that to make his Bluetooth battery tester seem like a better deal that he got from that company
Insteatof using a razor blade for removing electrical tape on wire harness. Use a sewing seam ripper. Much safer for your harness and super cheap.
That's a great tip. I've been using a seat belt cutter, but I think the sewing seam ripper will do a much better job. Smaller tip and much better handle.
@@im2yys4u81 I got this tip from The Humble Mechanic.
Also works for getting long hair off the beater brush in a vacuum.
@@thezfunk Amen. Refurbished a Dyson that was left next to a dumpster at an apartment complex. Years later it's still sucking with the best of them...
A hook blade for a utility knife that is used for roofing would work even better because it gives you a sharp Cutting Edge and does the same thing as a seam ripper.
You need to give those hot staples a small twist before it cools, they will eventually fall out if you don’t.
Good tip
@@Samcrac ……something stepmom might say ….
@@Dadeets LOL
@@Dadeets Stepmom loves it when you twist the tip ,🤤
Haha, do you mean Sam needs give stepmum a quick twist before she cools(?)
🥸👌🍷🍷🍷🍷💕💕
It’s an Econo Power battery which means it’s a interstate batteries reconditioned battery. They remove all stickers and sell it much cheaper.
Edit: I worked for Interstate Batteries driving the truck . We would take core returns and place them on trickle chargers for 24 hours and then do a battery test. If they passed we rebrand them with “Econo Power” stickers and sell them . If they failed we recycle them . They could be batteries from any manufacturer .
Probably from the auction. They install cheap batteries.
I’ve got econo power batterys in my 6.0. Starts it beautifully. Had very good luck with them and their over a year old now.
So what you are saying is that they are NOT reconditioned but simply old junk batteries that are recharged and re-sold? That sounds like a scam.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists That's exactly what it is. Capitalism at its finest!
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists It might not be. My father was a tech for a LONG time... policy at the dealerships was to replace bad batteries with new ones. One of the guys he worked with would take the old batteries and drop them on the ground (sometimes old batteries would accumulate around the cells, making them unable to complete a circuit, and the jolt of dropping them could clear the accumulation). Batteries would work for another couple of years sometimes. Dude never spent a dime on batteries lol.
Electrical issues often are complicated and hard to diagnose....so....the more detailed your explanation, the better.
I always appreciate your diving head-first into these problems whether or not you have experience or insight. Sam...You Are The Man!
I really appreciate you going into great detail when it comes to the wiring. It is one of the most confusion things when it comes to figuring out what is wrong. Thank your videos I enjoy watching them and learning.
Absolutely perfect explanation bud. I'd enjoy seeing you do this more!
As a car nut, I actually enjoyed the in depth testing you did with the electronics!
well he's definitely correct about how a weak battery can cause computers can cause computer problems my bmw i3s has a weak battery now and when the winter temp bottoms out the battery's to weak and causes the computer to report drivetrain fault indicating the drivetrains over heating and other faults to during startup bmw says the battery's fine in warmer ether due to me not being able to get it in during that weather
I love electrical troubleshooting. That's more up my alley and stuff I could do in an apartment parking stall. The mechanical, no so much.
@samcrac yes those square radar sensors should be programmed to your specific car. Even if it's a good used one it probably won't work until it's programmed with gm tds.
The waterlogged radar may work for a short while now that it's dry but I assure you it's not gonna last .
As far as attaching the left radar goes....idk how you could rig it. An ideal way would be to rob a bracket off of another smashed bumper. Alternatively without a bracket perhaps silicone or epoxy around the edges might just work. It needs to be located as close to the oe spot as possible.
Don't put any adhesive on the front white part or it's never gonna work correctly.
Last of all...**** On every gm I've fixed to date the radar sensors go in with the white part facing the bumper cover/looking outward***** the white side is where the radar signal comes out of to detect objects on the road for collision avoidance, cruise control, etc etc
Keep plugging away homie.
12:25 The sensors are missing a rubber gasket so it won't jiggle so much once you put it back in the sensor mount.
The electrical is the greatest mystery to those of us trying to do it ourselves. Getting into that in as much depth as possible is a HUGE help. For instance, the battery charger tip that does diagnostics - HUGE help.
Well done Sam on a second video on the escalade, usually by now it's gone to die in the graveyard of prior failed projects!
Keep up the good work!
Heck yes Sam, this video is super helpful, you have got me watching all the end of life dead car auctions in my country, I like you have enough smarts to solve most problems and with what can be found online, this is a great way to get a nice car/Ute for a bargain.Keep up the good work mate. 🇳🇿👍🇺🇸💪
I like this video because you are very thorough on the electrical diagnosis, your delivery on it makes it engaging, so I would keep up with it. Thank you for the great content!
1:47 It's called a surface charge. When a load is placed on the battery, the high internal resistance of a bad cell becomes a load and there is a voltage drop across it, which is why the potential drops like a rock.
Absolutely awesome video. I very much enjoyed watching you fix the electrical Gremlins. That is an absolutely beautiful Escalade
Just starting the video but one thing I instantly noticed is that bumper, or at least the grille doesn’t belong to that car. 2015 for the first half didn’t use the newer emblem. It should have had the one you see on the engine cover and steering wheel and rear gate. Definitely replaced.
Good eye, I saw the same thing and looked for this comment before I made it! Nice
Also color match is off...
I really enjoy, these electrical videos. A lot of
RUclipsrs don’t really do these in depth diagnostics. Please keep
Doing these. I really enjoy this series, and the Ferrari series. ❤
This video had a TON of great/interesting info. I like that you got in the weeds on testing everything. The stapler was cool, as well as that battery tester. No matter how technical your videos get, they're never boring. You use tools and methods available to most people.
Cadillac owners are probably mad cuz he keeps calling it a Chevy truck lol.... I own the Escalade EXT and it's pretty much a Chevy Avalanche but people get mad when you say that.. lol
Ya I find that funny, I find it funnier when they think the Escalade is faster than my wife’s Denali. The look on their face when it sinks in that the running works are the same lol
They hate that the truth hurts much like Lexus owners. Some think that their ES350 isn’t a Camry. 😂
Glorified Tahoe
Thank you Sam, I'm just a old gearhead that LOVES cars. I have no use for new rigs but I really like watching you fix them!!
17:48 - When you plugged in the "new" passenger side radar sensor into its bumper holder, the white radar transparent window needs to face forward. If you imagine the radar module being a "camera", the white window is the camera's "lens" and needs to face forward so it can see the cars in front of the vehicle.
On some vehicles, radar modules are self-calibrating (e.g. Volvo cross traffic modules) and others need to be put into a calibration mode via a diagnostic tool. Double check for this year of Escalade.
Analog meters allow you to observe "grass on the field" or AC ripple. Digital meters average out the reading and usually don't show you those fluctuations. An oscilloscope really shows this.
What kind
Set your DMM to AC to measure the ripple on a DC circuit.
Thanks Sam, was waiting for this video. If you get your ear close to the parking sensor you can hear the click than means it is working.
I love seeing your trouble shooting and the thought process you go through. Keep that pert up.
The other topdon tester you have shows a constant voltage on the screen. I bought one. I never thought to pull the fuel pump fuse, but you should be able to check the voltage while cranking with it. My avalanche shows 12.7 when not running and 14.7 while running.
It may sound crazy, but I love diagnosing electrical issues on vehicles. And what I have found over the years is what seems so complicated turned out to be very simple. It's a matter of knowing where to focus your attention in the spaghetti farm. And that's exactly what you did, and figured it out on the cheap. Well done!
Thanks for the great video. Seems like some one someone who wasn't very skilled or was in a hurry fixed it in the first place. I'm surprised the front bumper didn't just fall off. Thanks for informative content and vehicle update.
Hey Sam, just wanted to drop a comment and say I recently found your channel and have binged all of your videos. Love watching you work through diagnosing a complex issue and the ensuing repair job. Keep up the good work
@Jacob Snyder Hi am Cindy Smith, how are you? Hope we can be friends if that's okay with you
I don't know a lot about cars, but I really like your approach to repairs. You find the problem, and fix it right. When you found those chafed wires and replaced the whole harness, I was blown away. I already spend too much time watching RUclips and now you've made that problem a lot worse. But at least it will be your channel that I'll be watching.
I bought same escalade year atound the same time you did but mines a luxury model and we love it. I did notice transmission was shuddering but a simple fluid and filter change with the revised mobile one fluid made it about 90% better other than that just small little details like trim panels and that sliding thing in front of the cup holder doesn't stay open, it will all get fixed but it's a solid truck
Yes keep bringing this Escalade back to it's glory, great video
Having a load test on a battery is the best.
i appreciate your thorough diagnostic explanations !!! thanks Sam
This man is like a ninja when it comes to product placement. You don't see it coming and then BAM!
2:02 it's quite simple. Your battery has internal resistance. As it cycles and the internal structures break away, that resistance goes up. Although loading it will give a good test to how it actually performs, don't need to load it. You can calculate that resistance with a multimeter and simple math. No fancy tools required.
What if you failed college Algebra? 🤔
@@Samcrac if you can multiply and divide you can do the math needed
2:44 the old school battery testers had a heating element inside....you connected it, read the voltage and when you tested, it used the heating element to put a heavy load on the battery, release the trigger and check the recovery time/voltage.
BTW: 12.75 volts is average.
IN addition, the reason just reading the volts of the battery won't tell you if it's good because volts isn't an indication of capacity. Amperage is.
Think of a tube or pipe to move water. Voltage is the diameter of the pipe and amperage is the pressure/volume of the water inside the pipe. You might have a large diameter pipe running to your shower but without pressure behind it, you're not going to have a very good shower. Soon as you turn on the faucet the pressure will drop and you won't get very much water out of the shower head. Or the other head if your step mother is in there with you.
This was one of your best videos in years, sir.
@Luke Edward Hi am Cindy Smith, how are you? Hope we can be friends if that's okay with you
As always amazing, and with no attitude……. That’s why we love you Sam!
Amazing video and real admiration for people like you who know so much about cars. Man wish I was exposed to learning about cars more when I was younger
I subscribe to 87 channels. Your channel is one of the few I actually watch to the end. Thank you for a good show and I learn something new each time.
Thanks you for the insight👍👍👌 information bought a used SRX and the only issue I have is the park assist radar system. I replaced all the sensors and module. Yet, it still doesn't work, but thanks to you I have much better insight.
Hi Sam... Been on the same road with water in blind spot module. Same exact module.
You have on one side master and on other one slave. Master if damaged must be programed to tje VIN. Slave is just a dumb computer beeing a slave to the master. So if you bought old master, it is locked to previous VIN.
Seatbelt pretension is also part of that module. When it senses pedestrian or car it pretensions the belt to prepare for impact. So you should after programing that sensor get rid of both errors at the same time...
I was doing it on Buick Regal which is GM like you Cadillac.
Did you ever end up getting this completely fixed @michael9515?
@@BillGates_Alex yes... bought buick regal sensors which is the same as opel insignia... had them coded to my vin... only one does coding in my country. Even opel could not do it.
Most of your recent videos are commercials. Not the old videos that we loved
Wow I can’t wait for the next escalade video to come out next year!
When you said while heat welding “hold and pull out” with your stepmom 😂😂😂😂 seriously I love your channel 👍
I love that you go in depth with your diagnosing
As usual, great video
Another option for testing sensors, feel the sensor with your finger and if you feel a vibration then voltage is coming to the sensor
So the car was crashed, but not reported. repaired cheaply and no insurance claim. Then dumped at auction. Sounds like a perfect Samcrac buy. Good job Sam. And since I would never consider buying an Escalade I had never heard of these electrical issues so I learned something new.
Top tip per Ivan at Pine Hollow. There is a wire bundle that connects to the trans. The bundle rubs on a bracket right by the trans connector. Ends with a short back to the computers.
Multi meter is fine to test:
1) test voltage with the ignition off (make sure it’s stable).
2) test voltage with the engine running and accessories off (it should be over 13.8v ideally).
3) test voltage with fans, demisters, lights, etc. on and the voltage should still remain stable and over 13v.
Loving your videos!
Long time subscriber and watcher. I only know your basics about cars but this is one of the best channels on youtube.
You explain technical stuff very well, so it's easy to watch how you diagnose stuff. I say to not cut off some of the important troubleshooting so we get the whole picture.
The hot stapler is one of my favorite tools, when I use it I do a small rotation of the staple as the final movement before letting go of the heat button. That way I lock it in, inside the plastic, they tend to stick better, that is my experience.
Im really liking this series too, trying to do as much on the cheap but do it right is how I roll too. Thanks dude
Always learning lots from your channel, thank you very much Sam all the best .Adrian
The level of technical depth was acceptable and appropriate - please continue.
Great info Sam! Love seeing you work on vehicles, either yours or others!
So I learned the same thing with the multimeter. You can check to make sure the battery has the volts it needs. But that multimeter does not check the amps which is like the muscle in the battery. I checked a battery in a Neon that wouldn't start years ago, it had volts and the lights would come on in the car but the car wouldn't turn over. So I replaced the starter and it did the same thing. I had the car towed and an hour later the mechanic called and told me he replaced the battery and I was good to go. I was flabbergasted and he explained the volts verses amps to me. Another lesson learned.
Dealing with action cars is the most stressful job known to man. I’ve never seen this guy get mad and throw something, he just orders more parts and waits, he makes his job easier by having a good attitude (and there no boss rushing him to get the car done)
I love the video Sam. In my opinion please do not skip through all the technical stuff. I am learning a ton. And even though I may never own this vehicle because I have a lot of friends that are car enthusiasts they might and it might provide good information for the future. Keep up what you're doing I appreciate all the time and effort you put into these videos.
Schumacher BT-100 Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter - 100 Amp is what I use, (worked at a salvage yard) about 45.00 sold a lot of used batteries never had one come back.
Good job Sam cool seeing something I have had to deal with before fix your issue.
Yes Sam, these videos decoded the electronic sensor array paradigm and how to readi all the technical signs to divine what's actually present on a "repaired" deeply discounted auction 💎 gem! Yes you educate us to tackle these projects, which many dealer's only fix by big buck 💰 total replacement repairs! Yeah this one gave us all the techniques which greatly simplify such a 🚀 rocket 🔭 science project! Thanks 🙏Sam! 😎
@Timothy Vaher Hi am Cindy Smith, how are you? Hope we can be friends if that's okay with you
Keep up the detailed fixes, nothing sucks more then informational videos that lack the basic information! Thanks Sam, your the best, keep u0 the good work!
Been looking for a cheap battery tester for a while, picked up a topdon without the bluetooth function for only $40 on amazon. Awesome!
I had a Tahoe of similar year with a bunch of electrical gremlins in multiple systems. The power cable that runs over the top of the engine bay had a bad crimp. Soldered the eyelets on and that resolved the issues. I'm pretty sure there was a TSB for it as well.
Time well spent being entertained. Thank you for the video.
I love everything about cars and learning but always hated electrical and I think it’s because it’s always been a pain in my ass and I don’t understand things I can’t see so it’s nice to hear and see some new tips!
Yes, you cannot test a battery except by putting it under load. Voltage tests only tell you if you have a shorted cell and not much else.
Sam, always throw in tidbits. And go as deep into subjects as you like. (Not a royalty thing) but there are ALWAYS others that learn from you such as myself. Thanks for the great content. I hate when a you tuber gets popular, then starts glossing over things. Then I unsubscribe from them because they are no longer who I want to watch. Keep up the great work.
@Joe haney Hi am Cindy Smith, how are you? Hope we can be friends if that's okay with you
Right level of depth. Keep em coming.
Definitely love the in depth explanation and troubleshooting!!!!!!!
I've seen some other comments about the battery thing, but I've seen a few key points missing. This is a little bit technical but it shouldn't require an EE degree to understand.
The basic thing is this, any load you put across the battery can be thought of as a resistor when oversimplified. This resistor is in series with the internal resistance of the battery. This creates something called a voltage divider. Basically, it just means that the total voltage of the battery will be split proportionally between these two resistors based on their ratio of resistance. Some is "lost" inside the battery and the rest is what you see at the terminals. The bigger resistor always gets more of the voltage So as the internal resistance of the battery gets bigger and bigger, more of the battery's voltage is lost to that internal resistance leaving less for the rest of the car.
A side note is that the multimeter represents a very, very large resistance on the voltage setting. It's so much bigger than the internal resistance of the battery that it will 'see' most of the voltage.
What makes this a bit complicated is that the internal resistance can vary depending on how many amps are being pulled from the battery. So that internal resistance won't be the same when cranking the car over vs when the car is just running in accessory mode. So you might get the dash to light up OK and the voltage might test OK this way, but the voltage will sag when trying to crank the engine causing problems starting the car.
The large font on that scanner, makes it look more expensive than it is. I love that scanner. Look user-friendly too, and easy to use.
Wow Sam 2 videos this week thanks for the information 🙏
A multimeter is o.k to use to test a battery, the way to do it is to get somebody to start the car while you're looking at the multimeter readings and see how much the voltage drops by while it starts.
I think this was a blatant paid advertisement I’m sure he’s not that dumb he knows full well what a load test is but intentionally didn’t mention it
I appreciate the more thorough electrical explanations!!
Officially given up hope that you'll complete a story arc by showing subscribers the conclusion of your Mustang rebuild / repaint / reupholster. Is the grass around it up past the doorsills now? For now it's "Short-Attention-Span" theater for those of us watching you spend money on notoriously-always-breaking Bentleys, high-mileage BMWs, and Ferrari convertibles with enough electrical issues to be titled "Gremlins 3: The Prancing Horse."
Excellent video and job chasing down the electrical gremlins!
As a general motors lover but a new car hater it's great to see electrical problems (this one anyway) aren't really that bad once you dive into it💯👑❤️💪🏿
Great episode. This really shows how some people have found ways to defeat the computer vehicle records tracking by keeping it out of the system and doing half assed repairs, then dumping it on a dealer.
I have a 15 Escalade that’s still in great shape,
But I’ve been wondering what’s under the skin. Really cool to see you fox that thing!
Sometimes that "smaller stuff" provides us with many hours of a hair-pulling adventure! I personally spent days searching out an electrical wiring problem that ended up being an easy fix, those service bulletins really com in handy.
If you want to know if it has voltage drop. Tape the leads on and watch the multi meter as you crank. It will show the drop if you have a weak cell
Great video, I do like it when you do diagnostics and solve odd problems. Keep it up!
CCA cold cranking and charging two different things. Battery testing and alternator testing... local shop? Good job with tech explanations.
I like it when you get into the details of how you fix it's helpful 💯💯💯
Now this is why I love your videos so much!!
Sam you can remove overspray really easily with WD-40 and a white magic eraser! Let's say of plastic or paint or glass but if you need to remove those pesky auction paint markers on:
Glass - brake clean + microfiber (careful don't get it on the clear coat)
Bumper/plastic - WD40 + white magic eraser
Car paint - acetone + microfiber
I was sooo happy to see the parking sensors working!! Great work there..
Good project. Hope you get it working without issues.
The battery has internal resistance which "consumes" voltage. When nothing is turned on, all the voltage draw is across the battery so it will read fine. However, when another sort of load is placed on the battery, the load and the battery now both "consume" voltage so the internal resistance of the battery is now significant enough to effect it's overall provided voltage. Source - physics teacher.
Success! Love it when you find the solutions.
Love the video! Great fix on the bumper.
I love the content. Clips and Fasteners is the best place for those front bumper clips.
I gonna pick up one of those Hot Staplers 👍
@Wayne Nero Hi am Cindy Smith, how are you? Hope we can be friends if that's okay with you
Great troubleshooting video! I'm really enjoying your process of getting this Escalade back on the road. I typically I focus on Ferrari, Lambo, and Porsche diagnostics videos, but this one, the BMW, and the Touareg have been great. Keep up the great work.
A multimeter only tests voltage output, in this case, with no load. An analog old style battery tester, normally uses a low resistance, high current load (basically an electric heating element,) and tests voltage drop with that havy load on the battery, to estimate the current output capabilities in cranking amps.
Voltage, in this case, can be thought of like pressure in a water piping system. If there is not a path to a "drain" there is no flow(current). If there is a huge enough opening to drain (short circuit or very low resistance high current load,) the pressure will drop, and the tank(batttery) will drain very quickly. If a battery is weak, can be thought of like having a somewhat, or greatly reduced tank diameter. The height, that detrmines pressure, is the same, but when you draw a current of water from it, there is not as much water(power) available to flow, and pressure(voltage) will drop sooner and more drastically, with the same load/opening.