0:00 Intro 1:42 Specifics of my kit 3:20 Why Mafell? 4:39 What I like about this saw? 6:48 Sample cut 7:39 Adjusting depth and angle 9:44 Extending rails 12:19 Outro (pricing and final thoughts)
@patrujo I have ripped 5/4" white oak with no issues. I never had to rip 2"×4" with this saw, but I used Mafell 40 series tracked saw on 2"×4" with a 40 tooth blade. It is the smallest saw Mafell makes, and it is a power house, so this should handle anything you throw at it.
Great saw, I have one and after 2 years of ownership I can say I have no regrets spending on it. Also, those Mafell/Bosch guide rails are far superior to other extrusions.
Thanks for going over depth setting lock. I need something i can trust. On my last job my makita kept loosening at the depth setting knob and it would go to deepest setting. Seriously scary kickbacks if i didnt double check it ripping 2x4s on sleeper subfloors. I just found out the closest cut to a wall is is 31mm for mafell and 12mm for makita. I need under 3/4” for cutting perimeters around hardwood floors. May just have to keep both tracksaws.
They have a small saw the kss40 or kss300 as a corded saw that can go very close to the walls, works on the tracks and has a very usefull depth setter which allows you to plunge the saw. Much recommended for floors
I have the mafell mt 55, makita sp6000 and makita sp001gz 40v xgt. The weak point of the mafell is the plastic spring guide that holds the main plunge spring to the base. It has a flimsy 1mm thick locating tag that shears off because the spring is so strong. My mafell is only 6 months old but I've noticed, it has a lot of cheap parts on it for ease of repair. The switch and speed controller are like grinder grade, bottom of the barrel cheap but tough. Not had any problems with my makita sp6000 which is 8 years old and was used most days kitchen fitting and ripping up mdf etc. My 40v makita has basically made the other two redundant, though, for 95% of jobs. Cordless is the way to .
It’s funny as it’s opposite for me, I have had gone through 3 makita sp6000 110v after heavy use, cutting doors, thick mdf etc, and don’t get me wrong it’s a good saw in general, what I found that my blade had i side way movement which meant that when cutting materials length ways individually there was always some sort of discrepancy, took it in for repair and was told that seat where main shaft sits wears out and it’s nir really something worth fixing( to expensive) now I have had Maffel for 3 years same usage and no problems.
I have just picked up a Mafell plunge saw today. Without eve cutting anything, the motor produces a fairly strong electrical smell, reminiscent of my old Hornby train track. Is that common?
Must say I can’t remember now how it was when I purchased mine but as long there is no smoke coming out and no power loss you should be ok, don’t forget you got warranty as well.
@@ANCarpentry thanks. I haven't actually tried cutting anything yet. I bought it off someone else who had only used it for a couple of weeks. It certainly doesn't look like it has had a lot of use.
i had the makita and mafell track saw, the mafell is in another level and much better. it was the best track saw i had, only the brand new festool ts60 is better then mafell mt55.
I would agree Maffel is better, all those little things they have done in terms of design make life easier for day to day use. Again, Makita is not bad if you not using frequently.
On a model which I used to have handed for repair that’s the fault I had on my own tool maybe they have been improved with newer models and rectified the problem if that’s the case let me know in comments. P.s I don’t get sponsorship from anyone, only sharing my experience.
@@ANCarpentry Makita has always used die cast magnesium for the gear housing for their plunge cut saw. All you have to do is look up the part. RUclips does not allow links in the comments.
As I mentioned that’s what I was told by the engineer who meant to repair my saw at the time - the problem I had was the way it cuts on 8x4 sheets cutting in length, and he said that the cause was something to do with where bearing of the main shaft is sitting ( that area has worn out). I used to own 2x Makita plung saws in the past and each of them where good for about 3-4 years during which I've used them almost daily.
0:00 Intro
1:42 Specifics of my kit
3:20 Why Mafell?
4:39 What I like about this saw?
6:48 Sample cut
7:39 Adjusting depth and angle
9:44 Extending rails
12:19 Outro (pricing and final thoughts)
I have the battery version and it is by far the best track saw on the market..
Definitely great peace of kit!
Is the battery one powerful enough to rip 2x4s and 8/4 hardwoods? Or you just cutting plywood? Thanks
@patrujo I have ripped 5/4" white oak with no issues. I never had to rip 2"×4" with this saw, but I used Mafell 40 series tracked saw on 2"×4" with a 40 tooth blade. It is the smallest saw Mafell makes, and it is a power house, so this should handle anything you throw at it.
Great saw, I have one and after 2 years of ownership I can say I have no regrets spending on it.
Also, those Mafell/Bosch guide rails are far superior to other extrusions.
Agree, one of the best purchases I have made, it’s worth extra money all day long.
Thanks for going over depth setting lock. I need something i can trust. On my last job my makita kept loosening at the depth setting knob and it would go to deepest setting. Seriously scary kickbacks if i didnt double check it ripping 2x4s on sleeper subfloors. I just found out the closest cut to a wall is is 31mm for mafell and 12mm for makita. I need under 3/4” for cutting perimeters around hardwood floors. May just have to keep both tracksaws.
No problem, glad you found it useful !!!
They have a small saw the kss40 or kss300 as a corded saw that can go very close to the walls, works on the tracks and has a very usefull depth setter which allows you to plunge the saw. Much recommended for floors
I have the mafell mt 55, makita sp6000 and makita sp001gz 40v xgt. The weak point of the mafell is the plastic spring guide that holds the main plunge spring to the base. It has a flimsy 1mm thick locating tag that shears off because the spring is so strong. My mafell is only 6 months old but I've noticed, it has a lot of cheap parts on it for ease of repair. The switch and speed controller are like grinder grade, bottom of the barrel cheap but tough. Not had any problems with my makita sp6000 which is 8 years old and was used most days kitchen fitting and ripping up mdf etc. My 40v makita has basically made the other two redundant, though, for 95% of jobs. Cordless is the way to .
It’s funny as it’s opposite for me, I have had gone through 3 makita sp6000 110v after heavy use, cutting doors, thick mdf etc, and don’t get me wrong it’s a good saw in general, what I found that my blade had i side way movement which meant that when cutting materials length ways individually there was always some sort of discrepancy, took it in for repair and was told that seat where main shaft sits wears out and it’s nir really something worth fixing( to expensive) now I have had Maffel for 3 years same usage and no problems.
I have just picked up a Mafell plunge saw today. Without eve cutting anything, the motor produces a fairly strong electrical smell, reminiscent of my old Hornby train track. Is that common?
Must say I can’t remember now how it was when I purchased mine but as long there is no smoke coming out and no power loss you should be ok, don’t forget you got warranty as well.
@@ANCarpentry thanks. I haven't actually tried cutting anything yet. I bought it off someone else who had only used it for a couple of weeks. It certainly doesn't look like it has had a lot of use.
Bit risky buying before trying if you ask me 🤔
i had the makita and mafell track saw, the mafell is in another level and much better. it was the best track saw i had, only the brand new festool ts60 is better then mafell mt55.
I would agree Maffel is better, all those little things they have done in terms of design make life easier for day to day use.
Again, Makita is not bad if you not using frequently.
Hmm its a coin toss for me. Im festool fanboy and the ts60 is only $30 more than mafell
Bearing casing for Makita is plastic? False! You're a shill for Mafell.
On a model which I used to have handed for repair that’s the fault I had on my own tool maybe they have been improved with newer models and rectified the problem if that’s the case let me know in comments.
P.s I don’t get sponsorship from anyone, only sharing my experience.
@@ANCarpentry Makita has always used die cast magnesium for the gear housing for their plunge cut saw. All you have to do is look up the part. RUclips does not allow links in the comments.
As I mentioned that’s what I was told by the engineer who meant to repair my saw at the time - the problem I had was the way it cuts on 8x4 sheets cutting in length, and he said that the cause was something to do with where bearing of the main shaft is sitting ( that area has worn out). I used to own 2x Makita plung saws in the past and each of them where good for about 3-4 years during which I've used them almost daily.