I had purchased X-Transformer last year and tried it with your settings and I'm happy to report that it really works great in converting my Fuji raw to dng in Lightroom. Big difference. Thank you so much Reggie!
I have been using Iridient for a while now after playing around with capture one express, and I like Iridient more most of the time for the images I have compared. But I do find each image will give a bit different results as to which raw processor works best. Some show little difference while others are quite dramatic. Your example was great at showing how big of a difference there can be. I still like all of your portrait photos that you have shared with us the past year. I think you hit it right when you said images that have less harsh detail like portraits you will see little difference. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks Reggie. I got a 50% offer months ago from C1,and then a 60% this weekend, but after trying 5 different RAF files in both LR and CS1, I'm not convinced. I've used LR since the beta of version 1, and I love the workflow. Also, Nik, which I use, only works with LR and PS. I own X-Transformer, and after watching this video I need to play with the settings and try again with it. I really didn't want to learn a new program, and I don't find C1 intuitive. This video saved me a lot of trouble, time, and money! Thanks again!
Awesome my friend! Many feel C1 is a godsend. And to them I say keep using what you like. But for those who want to get great results with Lightroom then I’m here to show you :)
Ran across this video recently, but one of the keys to preventing worms (which can happen with any RAW file actaully, not just Fuji's, although Fuji's are more prone to worming in Lightroom), is to not oversharpen, decrease your detail slider to near zero, and for high ISO images, apply a little bit of film grain to mask out the worms. There was a video on here by another photographer comparing C1 and LIghtroom (this was done about a year ago, so with a more current version of C1 and LR, I think C1 22 and LR Classic v11 so not the latest v12), and he showed that worms and artifcating can show up in both programs. And this is where he recommended the film grain method (with high ISO files) to help hide the worms in both programs. He also states that while LR may not do as well with some aspects, C1 also falls short in other areas for Fuji files, so it depends really on your tolderance level for thing as both programs have their pros and cons from an editing standpoint. And with CaptureOne's recent change for perpetual licenses, I'm not sure I would go investing in that necessarily because overall it is more expensive in the long run (At least Adobe has held firm at $10 per month for LR and PS, of which CaptureOne doesn't really have a competitor for PS).
Hi Reggie and thank you for the video! After testing for the last 3 years different software and playing with Lightroom, Irident and Capture One I am more and mkre inclined to leaving Fuji. Unfortunately, as a landscape and travel enthusiast, I don't seem to get the results I want from my raf files. The issue is even more pronounced upon printing which I started to do lately on 30*20 prints. Shooting portraits is OK but for travel and landscape(more than 90% of my photos) I am really dissapointed with how much work is needed just to bring the files to a decent(not wow) result!
Just realized you already made a video about my question! i've used capture one for the past month but don't like it as much as lightroom, just bought your presets and am looking forward to better results!
I've been a long time Lightroom user and switched to Fuji last fall. I've experimented a lot with Raw and the Iridient x-transformer. I think your example shows the benefits of shooting landscapes with a lot of details. I find Lightroom processes raw portraits, low light concert, and most everyday photographs really well. I love the versatility shooting raw but I also feel a well-exposed jpg can also produce great results. I love the film sims and now with Lightroom 9.2 you can import raws with those simulations. Thanks for the video.
I'm sold! Iridient X-Transformer it is! although I do have to say that I am one that never saw artifacts or worms with the latest OS Fuji software, I am overly impressed with the difference between 'enhanced' and x-transformer! it's worth the $30 and since I have absolutely no desire for Capture 1 (have been using LR for over 7 years now and have 'mastered' it) a third-party plug-in such as x-trans is a no brainer for me...thanks again, Reggie! You have instrumental for me since I switched from Nikon to Fuji!...isn't it something that someone such as T.H. went Fuji from his beloved Mark4? but we knew from the beginning, ya? ...lol
This is incredibly helpful! Dealing with the ‘worms’ (or having to switch to a different editing program) has been one of my biggest issues holding me back from considering buying another Fuji. (Owned in the past but went back to canon). Thanks
Many thanks, Reggie. I have been tempted by C1 because I do a fair amount of landscape and architecture work. Based on this discussion, I'm going to give Iridient a try. Keep up this useful, clear instruction!
Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 10 is the best software to edit Fujifilm. Because, they are the company that created the Fujifilm X Converter. Also the company behind Nikon, Panasonic, Pantex raw converter. Highly recommended.
That's more like it buddy. Excellent video! Method 3 is my preference, Iridium pushes too hard and destroys the organic tones & textures that I prefer from Fuji. It's a very fine line but much more noticeable when printed mega. Thanks for the Enhanced Details tip, forgot all about it and really like it as a final touch.
I used your older video to make my own presets for my Xpro 3 and I am happy with, enough sharp for me, and no worm... I tried Capture One for some time, but if you know what you are doing and that the 2 have different way to achieve the same picture, then there is not that much differences. The rendition is different from Lr to C1, but none is better or worse, just different... nothing for me to justify switching. At the end it’s really a matter of taste or missing feature in one or the other. If you want layers and a more precise color edition, then C1 is great. If you want panorama and hdr merge, gps map, a good removing things tool (the one in C1 sucks), then Lr. But for sharpening, the differences are not significant at all if you correctly use both.
Hi Reggie, good video! I was turned on to Iridient X-Transformer from RUclipsr Thomas Fitzgerald a few years ago. (And I watch Thomas Heaton videos too!) The results have been very good. Glad you’ve produced easily understandable examples.
I use the cloud based Lightroom (Lr) version (Not LrC) and a 5K Mac. In my experience Capture One 20 (Fujifilm free version) gives immediate good results. I rate the results using Iridient x-transformer with the recommended settings icm Lr compared to Capture One as worse. I also tried other settings, but they are not better. The second best after Capture One is RAF in Lr with reduced sharpening settings (Profile Camera Profil/Std v2; Texture +20; Sharpening 10; Noise reduction +25; Color Noise reduction +20) which I call Capture One Match. I would love to understand if Lr indeed does a better job for the x-trans sensor compared to LrC.
Wow!! Thank you so much, Reggie! I have Iridient X-Transformer but was using it differently. I like your approach so much better so I will busing it going forward. Thanks for the preset, I'll replace a preset I created before starting X-Transformer and start using method 4. Any tweaks to your use down the road I'm sure you will share. I'm already a subscriber so I'll be on the look out! HUGE Thanks again!
I prefer capture one as a raw converter for Fuji, plus I love the colour wheel function, layers and opacity. Only reason I haven't fully transitioned to C1 is because LR's ability for Pano stitch and HDR merge. Using third parties with C1 looks like a pain. I hope C1 adds these features one day.
Its a bit like comparing different apples when axtually what you wanted was a pear. All these methods in lightroom mitigate the problem somewhat, but its still aparent or doesn't give satisfying results. Go ahead and try capture one for full potential of fuji raw files, it's really amazing what is possible when just not using the old lightroom algorithms anymore. Thomas Heaton btw. also came to the same conclusion that capture one by provides better results.
Another helpful video, Reggie. FWIW, I find that using the "smoother" option instead of "more detailed" eliminates the slightly oversharpened look you can sometimes get with X-Transformer.
Timothy Linn yup I agree with you there. But from my experimentation, using smoother doesn’t produce A noticible difference vs method 2 I showed in the video. Hence why I ignore iridient for a while (as I wrote it off based on the smoother option as not effective in giving more detail than what lightroom does already)
when I import a RAW file from my X-T3 to: ON1 Photo Raw, Capture One and Lightroom, the painterly effects in Lightroom are there, right after importing. The same file looks absolutely fine in On1 an Capture One. What is wrong with Adobe Lightroom? 🥵 I want my importet Fuji RAW files crisp from the beginning, like in the other apps. I dont want to correct this effect in Lightroom with every foto. Is there any generell adjustment I can do? Thanks for every help. A confused Fujifilm user. I do not want to do any work arounds. I want an app that works with Fujifilm to make shootings! 😫
Hi Reggie I love your video especially the sharpening methods I love them. Resluts are epic I didn't want to leave lightroom as it's faster to edit bulk photos. I recently purchased a XT2 with a 18-55mm coming from Canon. What is the best method to set up my portrait settings like autofocus methods
This is great. How do find using the X-Transformer with sharpening on files that are 800 iso plus? I find it creates sharpening artefacts on the noise. If you turn the sharpening off, then you're back to square one... any thoughts?
One tip I found elsewhere as to add some film grain to high ISO images, as this can sort of mask out the worming effect (which by the way, is not specific to Fuji files only, as people claim it to be, but worming can actaully happen with files from bayer sensors too, not just X-Trans). And in more recent version of LR Classic, this has been addressed (there is still some question about the "watercolor" effect but the worming issue is not really an issue anymore, at least not any more than it is with say Nikon or Sony files, etc.)
@@Reggiebphoto good to know! Maybe I'll reserve iridient for large prints or something. Doesn't seem worthwhile to do to every image. Btw, is the sharpening preset here different from what comes in your paid pack?
Neither the 'alt' key, nor any combo of it with Shift etc (I'm on a Mac), allows me to 'Set Default Develop Settings'. Any one got a workaround? Thanks in advance.
I'm using an x-t200 which is a bayer sensor. The same issue with sharpening in ligtroom. Do you have an explanation for this since you specifically explain that the issue would be the x-trans sensor ?
@@Reggiebphoto I was already connecting this with what you said in the video but I wanted to make sure. Anyway. Even Serif's Affiniy Photo does a better job than the best possible settings in LR. Though for convenience of pertained image modifications I'm sticking to the bundled, free, skimmed down versio of CaptureOne for Fujifilm.
Perfect timing Reggie, As I just applied for another Capture1 free trial in the pursuit of better Fuji X-Tranz results.. The X-Transformer Plug-In with Lr CC will be a less complicated solution for me.. & I appreciate your time spent on this issue & also the Preset. Cheerz fum AU.
Paul Timlett yes that’s correct. But the conversion does strip all the lightroom adjustments. But yes, method 1 and 2 tackle the antialiasing filter issues. Method 3 and 4 tackle the demosaicing issues. So you can stack 3 and 4 on top of 1 and 2 if that makes sense
I suggest that you also get the free 30 day trial versions of Topaz Sharpwn Ai and Topaz Denoise Ai . Both very very easy to use with LR as a plugin. Sharpen has 3 functions and Denoise 2 . Superb results ...judge for yourself
@@Reggiebphoto thank you sir. . I have been admiring your works and i am looking forward that i can be a better photographer sooner because of you. God Bless!!!
I appreciate this, but I can honestly say, after many testings, Lighroom processing detail it's not even close to Capture One. And also for the contrast and detail in the midtones and shadows, it's insanely different. This works fine for someone that doesn't want to get out of the work method of Lightroom, but Capture One is miles away better to render XT3 files, it's night and day folks, night and day!
Alex ...questions ...when you compared ...were you using the very latest version of LR ( Feb 20) ? ...dId have the LR details sliders turned down to zero prior to import and thereafter apply them yourself ? Thanks
I edited Fuji xt3 files in photoshop with camera raw ... so far no worms in both raf and jpgs .... too much work in order to get a detailed image on Lightroom I do prefer to convert in single and easy steps on Fuji’s raw studio or capture one then tweak the files in Lightroom.
Open Fuji Raw .RAF image in Bridge... edit in ACR or LR... take sharpening to 0 (important). Then r/click open image in PS Photoshop - Filter - Sharpen in Unsharp mask. (takes just 30 secs). Try 300/1.4/7.0 settings (extremely sharp and NO WORMS AT ALL). Save to jpeg Fixed - Fuji raws edit in ACR or LR then sharpen in PS = no worms. :-)
Ya, it's 2021 and LR still can't read proper X-Trains photos. Shame!!! I have got 5000 pictures from my last trip. I have to create another 5000 DNGs to proper read my raw files... It's just unbelievable.
Unfortunately the only way to get the images sharp in Lightroom is to use Iridient X Transformer. Not only sharpening is the problem, but masking does not work very well. Also sharpening bayer matrix also does not work the best, but it is much better. Not that this makes Lightroom unusable, I believe it is sharp and good enough for how we look our photos, but those worms and artifacts can not be unseen so it is very subjective for photographers, there is never enough sharpness with Lightroom even 100% of people look zoomed out and no one looks for worms and artifacts in reality.
That's not correct to compare an image with Lr's sliders in min positions (detail=0 and radius=0,5) and the same image converted by software (in this case, Iridient X-Transforme) with Raw Process="More Detailed" and Sharpening="Medium". It's just wrong. But result could be wonderful.
I usually enjoy your videos and I've definitely learned I thing or two from you, but I always find it very disappointing that you're a Lightroom user. CaptureOne is definitely a more professional tool for editing and organizing your photographs. Have you given it a try lately?
I actually like the painterly effect and dont see it as a negative. Realistically how far should you be able to crop in anyway - just take a better photo in the first place. Good video though, Thank you.
@@Reggiebphoto ah! he starts all his videos with "i am a professional skateboarder from the san francisco bay area" .. just funny, that you do this aswell
Reggie, given that you won't even try Capture One it's not exactly an objective take on the topic. I used Lightroom since beta and only switched to C1 this year, it's better at everything except GPS tagging. Hands down.
@@Reggiebphoto Have you looked at the session based workflow that C1 has? For the weddings you shoot surely it would be advantageous to have everything to do with that shoot in one folder location that can be moved independent of a catalog without losing edits. It's huge for portrait and wedding work before you even get into the editing advantages.
iShaymus Im sorry dude but i have used Capture one a fair amount. I taught my self on the off season. When actually editing, i think C1 looks miles better. But once you actually export them there is hardly any noticeable difference. I thought i would try and edit a wedding in November with C1. It was the most hideous and slow edit i have ever done. Its just not as intuitive. No quick way of levelling each photo, is just one of many issues i had.
Adam Beale Photography yer of you go off this video in Lightroom you have to stop and individually sharpen each image and apply specific focus masking vs capture one where you just move the sharpness slider and then copy across an entire set of images.
Lightroom vs Capture ONe? Keep it friendly :P
I had purchased X-Transformer last year and tried it with your settings and I'm happy to report that it really works great in converting my Fuji raw to dng in Lightroom. Big difference. Thank you so much Reggie!
Michael DeLisio this makes my day! Glad I’m helping others with the settings :)
I have been using Iridient for a while now after playing around with capture one express, and I like Iridient more most of the time for the images I have compared. But I do find each image will give a bit different results as to which raw processor works best. Some show little difference while others are quite dramatic. Your example was great at showing how big of a difference there can be. I still like all of your portrait photos that you have shared with us the past year. I think you hit it right when you said images that have less harsh detail like portraits you will see little difference. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks Reggie. I got a 50% offer months ago from C1,and then a 60% this weekend, but after trying 5 different RAF files in both LR and CS1, I'm not convinced. I've used LR since the beta of version 1, and I love the workflow. Also, Nik, which I use, only works with LR and PS. I own X-Transformer, and after watching this video I need to play with the settings and try again with it. I really didn't want to learn a new program, and I don't find C1 intuitive. This video saved me a lot of trouble, time, and money! Thanks again!
Awesome my friend! Many feel C1 is a godsend. And to them I say keep using what you like. But for those who want to get great results with Lightroom then I’m here to show you :)
Ran across this video recently, but one of the keys to preventing worms (which can happen with any RAW file actaully, not just Fuji's, although Fuji's are more prone to worming in Lightroom), is to not oversharpen, decrease your detail slider to near zero, and for high ISO images, apply a little bit of film grain to mask out the worms. There was a video on here by another photographer comparing C1 and LIghtroom (this was done about a year ago, so with a more current version of C1 and LR, I think C1 22 and LR Classic v11 so not the latest v12), and he showed that worms and artifcating can show up in both programs. And this is where he recommended the film grain method (with high ISO files) to help hide the worms in both programs. He also states that while LR may not do as well with some aspects, C1 also falls short in other areas for Fuji files, so it depends really on your tolderance level for thing as both programs have their pros and cons from an editing standpoint. And with CaptureOne's recent change for perpetual licenses, I'm not sure I would go investing in that necessarily because overall it is more expensive in the long run (At least Adobe has held firm at $10 per month for LR and PS, of which CaptureOne doesn't really have a competitor for PS).
Yup. I cover the detail slider zero method in this video. I actually pioneered that method in 2018
Hi Reggie and thank you for the video! After testing for the last 3 years different software and playing with Lightroom, Irident and Capture One I am more and mkre inclined to leaving Fuji. Unfortunately, as a landscape and travel enthusiast, I don't seem to get the results I want from my raf files. The issue is even more pronounced upon printing which I started to do lately on 30*20 prints. Shooting portraits is OK but for travel and landscape(more than 90% of my photos) I am really dissapointed with how much work is needed just to bring the files to a decent(not wow) result!
You’re welcome
Just realized you already made a video about my question! i've used capture one for the past month but don't like it as much as lightroom, just bought your presets and am looking forward to better results!
I've been a long time Lightroom user and switched to Fuji last fall. I've experimented a lot with Raw and the Iridient x-transformer. I think your example shows the benefits of shooting landscapes with a lot of details. I find Lightroom processes raw portraits, low light concert, and most everyday photographs really well. I love the versatility shooting raw but I also feel a well-exposed jpg can also produce great results. I love the film sims and now with Lightroom 9.2 you can import raws with those simulations. Thanks for the video.
Mark Casebeer yup I agree completely. My normal wedding workflow doesn’t need iridient
I'm sold! Iridient X-Transformer it is! although I do have to say that I am one that never saw artifacts or worms with the latest OS Fuji software, I am overly impressed with the difference between 'enhanced' and x-transformer! it's worth the $30 and since I have absolutely no desire for Capture 1 (have been using LR for over 7 years now and have 'mastered' it) a third-party plug-in such as x-trans is a no brainer for me...thanks again, Reggie! You have instrumental for me since I switched from Nikon to Fuji!...isn't it something that someone such as T.H. went Fuji from his beloved Mark4? but we knew from the beginning, ya? ...lol
Haha yes I feel the same way. It’s less than 40 bucks
This is incredibly helpful! Dealing with the ‘worms’ (or having to switch to a different editing program) has been one of my biggest issues holding me back from considering buying another Fuji. (Owned in the past but went back to canon). Thanks
You’re welcome
Best 43euros I ever spend
With iridient x transformer I saw great improvement of my xt3 files thank you for your great video
Nikos Chatzikonstantinos great to hear!
Many thanks, Reggie. I have been tempted by C1 because I do a fair amount of landscape and architecture work. Based on this discussion, I'm going to give Iridient a try. Keep up this useful, clear instruction!
Jim Moyer glad it was helpful!
Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 10 is the best software to edit Fujifilm.
Because, they are the company that created the Fujifilm X Converter. Also the company behind Nikon, Panasonic, Pantex raw converter.
Highly recommended.
That's more like it buddy. Excellent video! Method 3 is my preference, Iridium pushes too hard and destroys the organic tones & textures that I prefer from Fuji. It's a very fine line but much more noticeable when printed mega. Thanks for the Enhanced Details tip, forgot all about it and really like it as a final touch.
Good stuff!
I used your older video to make my own presets for my Xpro 3 and I am happy with, enough sharp for me, and no worm...
I tried Capture One for some time, but if you know what you are doing and that the 2 have different way to achieve the same picture, then there is not that much differences. The rendition is different from Lr to C1, but none is better or worse, just different... nothing for me to justify switching. At the end it’s really a matter of taste or missing feature in one or the other. If you want layers and a more precise color edition, then C1 is great. If you want panorama and hdr merge, gps map, a good removing things tool (the one in C1 sucks), then Lr. But for sharpening, the differences are not significant at all if you correctly use both.
Thanks!
Hi Reggie, good video! I was turned on to Iridient X-Transformer from RUclipsr Thomas Fitzgerald a few years ago. (And I watch Thomas Heaton videos too!) The results have been very good. Glad you’ve produced easily understandable examples.
Alex Glassman glad it was easy to follow :)
I use the cloud based Lightroom (Lr) version (Not LrC) and a 5K Mac. In my experience Capture One 20 (Fujifilm free version) gives immediate good results. I rate the results using Iridient x-transformer with the recommended settings icm Lr compared to Capture One as worse. I also tried other settings, but they are not better. The second best after Capture One is RAF in Lr with reduced sharpening settings (Profile Camera Profil/Std v2; Texture +20; Sharpening 10; Noise reduction +25; Color Noise reduction +20) which I call Capture One Match. I would love to understand if Lr indeed does a better job for the x-trans sensor compared to LrC.
As far as I know the sharpening and raw engines are the same for both software. But I may be wrong
Wow!! Thank you so much, Reggie! I have Iridient X-Transformer but was using it differently. I like your approach so much better so I will busing it going forward. Thanks for the preset, I'll replace a preset I created before starting X-Transformer and start using method 4. Any tweaks to your use down the road I'm sure you will share. I'm already a subscriber so I'll be on the look out! HUGE Thanks again!
Florian Cortese you’re welcome! It was such a crazy result I had to share!
I prefer capture one as a raw converter for Fuji, plus I love the colour wheel function, layers and opacity.
Only reason I haven't fully transitioned to C1 is because LR's ability for Pano stitch and HDR merge.
Using third parties with C1 looks like a pain. I hope C1 adds these features one day.
👍🏽
Its a bit like comparing different apples when axtually what you wanted was a pear. All these methods in lightroom mitigate the problem somewhat, but its still aparent or doesn't give satisfying results. Go ahead and try capture one for full potential of fuji raw files, it's really amazing what is possible when just not using the old lightroom algorithms anymore. Thomas Heaton btw. also came to the same conclusion that capture one by provides better results.
Dominik Nugetti I didn’t claim any of these methods were better than capture one.
Good stuff Reggie, that might be worth a look for me to 👍😃😃 Keep up the good work 👍
Ian Worth yes, especially for your landscape work it will be a pretty significant jump in detail retention vs lr alone
Another helpful video, Reggie. FWIW, I find that using the "smoother" option instead of "more detailed" eliminates the slightly oversharpened look you can sometimes get with X-Transformer.
Timothy Linn yup I agree with you there. But from my experimentation, using smoother doesn’t produce
A noticible difference vs method 2 I showed in the video. Hence why I ignore iridient for a while (as I wrote it off based on the smoother option as not effective in giving more detail than what lightroom does already)
when I import a RAW file from my X-T3 to: ON1 Photo Raw, Capture One and Lightroom, the painterly effects in Lightroom are there, right after importing. The same file looks absolutely fine in On1 an Capture One. What is wrong with Adobe Lightroom? 🥵 I want my importet Fuji RAW files crisp from the beginning, like in the other apps. I dont want to correct this effect in Lightroom with every foto. Is there any generell adjustment I can do? Thanks for every help. A confused Fujifilm user. I do not want to do any work arounds. I want an app that works with Fujifilm to make shootings! 😫
Hi Reggie I love your video especially the sharpening methods I love them. Resluts are epic I didn't want to leave lightroom as it's faster to edit bulk photos. I recently purchased a XT2 with a 18-55mm coming from Canon. What is the best method to set up my portrait settings like autofocus methods
For autofocus for portraits,
You can’t go wrong with af-a single point.
@@Reggiebphoto thanks. Do I set all the focus points or just 91
Face and Eye detection or just make place the focus point where I want it.
This is great. How do find using the X-Transformer with sharpening on files that are 800 iso plus? I find it creates sharpening artefacts on the noise. If you turn the sharpening off, then you're back to square one... any thoughts?
Thurston Empson I haven’t done much experimentation with the high iso files just yet. So more to come on that.
One tip I found elsewhere as to add some film grain to high ISO images, as this can sort of mask out the worming effect (which by the way, is not specific to Fuji files only, as people claim it to be, but worming can actaully happen with files from bayer sensors too, not just X-Trans). And in more recent version of LR Classic, this has been addressed (there is still some question about the "watercolor" effect but the worming issue is not really an issue anymore, at least not any more than it is with say Nikon or Sony files, etc.)
Question, is there the same problem with Fuji files from a GFX camera,
really helpfull, thank you
For sure!
Hey Reggie! Have things changed for you in 2021? I'm super curious to see what you came up with after a year of testing different solutions.
Nope I still use method 2 for almost everything
@@Reggiebphoto good to know! Maybe I'll reserve iridient for large prints or something. Doesn't seem worthwhile to do to every image. Btw, is the sharpening preset here different from what comes in your paid pack?
No it’s the same one
Hi, thanks for the vidéo.
What technique are you using in 2023 for worms?
Thx
I stopped shooting raw
does it make sense to initially use iridient transformer and then also the LR detail enhancer?
I’ve never tried
Neither the 'alt' key, nor any combo of it with Shift etc (I'm on a Mac), allows me to 'Set Default Develop Settings'. Any one got a workaround? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the videos Reggie. I'm on lightroom 9.2 and my fuji profiles just disappeared. Any idea how I can get those back?
juicej45 oh wow, I haven’t updated yet. So I wouldn’t know the solution just yet
@@Reggiebphoto please share if you do find a solution. This issue made me download the capture one trial and now I'm 🤔
will that transformer make a difference in quality of instagram posts too?
Not necessarily
Can I use RPP with Fuji XH-1?
Would like to try this workflow
Thanks is advance to all that answer my Question
What is RPP?
if i press the alt button it doesn't appear "set default", what i've to change in lightroom option ?
TheSuperlova you’re the second person who’s indicated this to
Me. I need to dig a bit more as the alt go set default has always appeared for me 🤔
Add me to the list...no change when I press Alt
I'm thinking of changing to a Fuji system. Is there any problem with editing Fuji files in Adobe camera raw?
There aren’t any issues as long as you apply the appropriate sharpening sertings
@@Reggiebphoto which would be? Currently considering using Lightroom again in addition C1
I'm using an x-t200 which is a bayer sensor. The same issue with sharpening in ligtroom. Do you have an explanation for this since you specifically explain that the issue would be the x-trans sensor ?
It’s the lack of the antialiasing filter on the xt200
@@Reggiebphoto I was already connecting this with what you said in the video but I wanted to make sure. Anyway. Even Serif's Affiniy Photo does a better job than the best possible settings in LR. Though for convenience of pertained image modifications I'm sticking to the bundled, free, skimmed down versio of CaptureOne for Fujifilm.
I'm on windows so irident is out of question.
👍🏽
Perfect timing Reggie, As I just applied for another Capture1 free trial in the pursuit of better Fuji X-Tranz results.. The X-Transformer Plug-In with Lr CC will be a less complicated solution for me.. & I appreciate your time spent on this issue & also the Preset. Cheerz fum AU.
It may not be perfect but it’ll be pretty damn close. 40 dollars is a small price to pay vs completely adopting a new system.
When you used Iridient you seemed to apply it to a file you had already sharpened using method 2 or method 3 (enhanced detail). Is that correct?
Paul Timlett yes that’s correct. But the conversion does strip all the lightroom adjustments. But yes, method 1 and 2 tackle the antialiasing filter issues. Method 3 and 4 tackle the demosaicing issues. So you can stack 3 and 4 on top of 1 and 2 if that makes sense
For the iredient you just leave everything on default everytime?
I walk thru the settings on the vid. I don’t remember off the top of my head
I suggest that you also get the free 30 day trial versions of Topaz Sharpwn Ai and Topaz Denoise Ai . Both very very easy to use with LR as a plugin. Sharpen has 3 functions and Denoise 2 . Superb results ...judge for yourself
thanks for the suggestion
Thanks a lot
You’re welcome!
Is it possible editing fuji-files on an ipad? Cause i like the cloud. (Editing and synchr.)
Yes but only limited to method one and two
what monitor are you using?
I used to be using a dell iltrasharp. Now I use an asus pro art
@@Reggiebphoto thank you sir. . I have been admiring your works and i am looking forward that i can be a better photographer sooner because of you. God Bless!!!
Thanks so much !!!!
You’re welcome Michael!
@@Reggiebphoto I just purchased, installed and tried one RAF conversion to DNG. Very big difference !!! Thanks !!!
So pumped to try this out! C1 is too slow for me (I just need to learn more). Lightroom is so convenient!
Let me know how it goes!!
I appreciate this, but I can honestly say, after many testings, Lighroom processing detail it's not even close to Capture One. And also for the contrast and detail in the midtones and shadows, it's insanely different.
This works fine for someone that doesn't want to get out of the work method of Lightroom, but Capture One is miles away better to render XT3 files, it's night and day folks, night and day!
alex fabricio thanks is for the comment. Glad it’s working for you!
Alex ...questions ...when you compared
...were you using the very latest version of LR ( Feb 20) ?
...dId have the LR details sliders turned down to zero prior to import and thereafter apply them yourself ?
Thanks
I edited Fuji xt3 files in photoshop with camera raw ... so far no worms in both raf and jpgs .... too much work in order to get a detailed image on Lightroom I do prefer to convert in single and easy steps on Fuji’s raw studio or capture one then tweak the files in Lightroom.
Dan Addams got it thanks for the comment
Does Adobe Camera Raw do the same?
Yes. Camera raw and Lightroom are the same raw engine
@@Reggiebphoto Thanks good to know. :)
Yup
Open Fuji Raw .RAF image in Bridge... edit in ACR or LR... take sharpening to 0 (important).
Then r/click open image in PS Photoshop - Filter - Sharpen in Unsharp mask. (takes just 30 secs).
Try 300/1.4/7.0 settings (extremely sharp and NO WORMS AT ALL).
Save to jpeg
Fixed - Fuji raws edit in ACR or LR then sharpen in PS = no worms.
:-)
Ya, it's 2021 and LR still can't read proper X-Trains photos. Shame!!!
I have got 5000 pictures from my last trip. I have to create another 5000 DNGs to proper read my raw files... It's just unbelievable.
What’s stopping you from jumping to capture one?
Best method for sharpening Fuji files in Lightroom
1. Cancel Lightroom subscription
2. Buy (or subscribe) Capture One
3. ???
4. Profit
Unfortunately the only way to get the images sharp in Lightroom is to use Iridient X Transformer. Not only sharpening is the problem, but masking does not work very well. Also sharpening bayer matrix also does not work the best, but it is much better.
Not that this makes Lightroom unusable, I believe it is sharp and good enough for how we look our photos, but those worms and artifacts can not be unseen so it is very subjective for photographers, there is never enough sharpness with Lightroom even 100% of people look zoomed out and no one looks for worms and artifacts in reality.
Bojan Bojovic thanks for the comments
Looks pretty cool until you have 300 photos to edit :'D
Adam MacKintosh Photo Yup I stick with method 2 for
Most of my work.
That's not correct to compare an image with Lr's sliders in min positions (detail=0 and radius=0,5) and the same image converted by software (in this case, Iridient X-Transforme) with Raw Process="More Detailed" and Sharpening="Medium". It's just wrong. But result could be wonderful.
What would be correct?
@@Reggiebphoto just a result that depends on our goals
Yeah that’s why I presented options,
I usually enjoy your videos and I've definitely learned I thing or two from you, but I always find it very disappointing that you're a Lightroom user. CaptureOne is definitely a more professional tool for editing and organizing your photographs. Have you given it a try lately?
please send me you're website. would love to see the body of work and photo quality from a true professional. thanks in advance and have a great day!
I actually like the painterly effect and dont see it as a negative. Realistically how far should you be able to crop in anyway - just take a better photo in the first place. Good video though, Thank you.
David S 👍
Lightroom only works if you wear a hat
"San Francisco Bay Area" - reference to braille skateboarding?? Nice vid though, thanks for the input! :)
What do you mean by Braille skateboarding?
@@Reggiebphoto ah! he starts all his videos with "i am a professional skateboarder from the san francisco bay area" .. just funny, that you do this aswell
Got it. Well that’s what it’s called haha.
I should have gone with canon
Reggie, given that you won't even try Capture One it's not exactly an objective take on the topic. I used Lightroom since beta and only switched to C1 this year, it's better at everything except GPS tagging. Hands down.
iShaymus awesome glad it’s working great for you!
@@Reggiebphoto Have you looked at the session based workflow that C1 has? For the weddings you shoot surely it would be advantageous to have everything to do with that shoot in one folder location that can be moved independent of a catalog without losing edits.
It's huge for portrait and wedding work before you even get into the editing advantages.
Nope I haven’t tried. But again I’m glad it’s working great for you. If I’m satisfied with Lightroom then we’re both good right?
iShaymus Im sorry dude but i have used Capture one a fair amount. I taught my self on the off season. When actually editing, i think C1 looks miles better. But once you actually export them there is hardly any noticeable difference. I thought i would try and edit a wedding in November with C1. It was the most hideous and slow edit i have ever done. Its just not as intuitive. No quick way of levelling each photo, is just one of many issues i had.
Adam Beale Photography yer of you go off this video in Lightroom you have to stop and individually sharpen each image and apply specific focus masking vs capture one where you just move the sharpness slider and then copy across an entire set of images.