Thanks for sharing this technique Ian. I switched from Fuji to Sony late last year, but I still have thousands of Fuji files taken over the past several years to cull and edit, so this will come in handy for my best images. As mentioned, I no longer shoot Fuji, but I'm a big fan of your channel, most of your content is applicable to users of all camera brands, and so I'm staying subscribed.
Extra valuable post, a keeper, with clear steps and caveats.👍 Still awaiting LR update, but good to know about this workflow for special photos. Your delight in the method is clear and engaging. Cheers!
Capture One made all the difference. I’ve tried many tricks and software, but Capture One does a perfect job. No more worms or other strange artifacts, color treatment is so much better
I've just tried it using a file from my GFX 50S, and it works. But extracting the enhanced TIFF file from photoshop took quite a few seconds on my pretty powerful desktop, and that is just for one photo. A lot of toing and froing which I don't need for 99.9% of my images, but handy to know for the odd special one. Looking forward to the LR version. Thanks Ian.
Hello Ian. Yet another very helpful video. I will be trying this new workflow with my portfolio images. Previously I have been using Capture One to render the RAW image file. Save as a TIFF then continue my editing process in Lightroom/Photoshop. The results seemed more natural and less "wormy" particularly in images with trees. I very rarely add sharpening in Photoshop due to the "wormy" artefact issue although some images get away with sharpening. Can't wait to give this new method ago and compare the results.
Great video! I recently used this option for images published on a billboard, worked very well even if I don't think if it was really necessary because of the big viewing distance. BTW, the folder with the original RAW is already in LR, so you don't need the import dialog box again, just right click on the folder and "synchronise folder".
Fantastic! What a fab video Ian. I hate the way Fujifilm files get handled in LR, so this method is definitely a great workaround to having those wormy artifacts in your images 👍 Thank you so much 🙏
I moved over to capture one for my fuji files and used that for around 7 months, recently I went back and had a play around in lightrooms and I always seem to get more pleasing results in lightroom, I really don't care about the whole worming thing, unless your viewing the file at 200% you can't see it anyway
I've found the x-h2 files require a little more sharpening than the 26mp sensor. That being said, i tend to do my sharpening in photoshop for my landscapes👍
Import via copy to Lightroom, show file in Explorer (or Finder in MacOS), open in Camera Raw, save from Photoshop, import via add into Lightroom... crikey, that's a lot of steps! I've just been importing my camera-original files using Adobe Bridge, opening selected files into Camera Raw, invoking Enhance/Super Resolution, and then Importing everything into Lightroom in one go. Basically the same steps, I guess, but less jumping around...
Hi Ian, love your videos and appreciate all the effort you go to to share your awesome Fuji skills. I’m still getting my head round shooting RAW on my X-T3 and am wondering when choosing settings in the IQ menu if it’s best to leave everything at defaults or set HT, ST, color, NR etc to the same as a favorite JPEG simulation recipe in custom settings? Or is it best to keep the IQ settings vanilla and then apply a “look” to RAW files in capture one or x-raw studio or Lightroom? In which case, is eterna the best simulation to use for RAW, as it’s so flat and desaturated? Or does any of this even matter with RAW? I guess I’m just looking for some clarity on how settings in the IQ menu impact RAW files, if at all. Thanks for your help!
Hi, the ht,st etc.. will only be applied to the jpeg and not the raw file. Try using natural live view for the best representation of how the raw file will look on your lcd, you can find it in the menus if you dig around 👍👍😊
Send from Lr to Ps via Smart Object, double click the Smart Object, ACR opens, Ctrl+Shift+D enables the Super Resolution even thou the option is not there when you right click the photo.
The right answer is in the middle. Use Capture One for editing, because colors and micro contrast is way better in Capture One. Then for the final, export as TIFF, import into Photoshop and do this final step.
tried this test on a raw file with a stuff animals in it the amount of detail in the fur is insane . like it wasnt even twice as good but 3x tbh . guess it depends on the image
the interface of Silkypix is terrible!!! go for capture one for all of your photos - across brands - and you’ll see how good that software is! now i really wish that they get their acts together, and release a native Mac M1 version!
@@mortenthorpe, Capture One in good too. But Capture One interface in just too busy and similar to Silkypix. And it does not bother me even in I am obliged to use commands like Linux, as long as quality is the best. Silkypix is fantastic in terms of image quality. And it provides the actual Film Simulations. Not the reverse engineered C1 versions.
I started using Iradient X Transformer. It converts RAF files to DNG. Then I can use Lightroom or Photoshop as I normally do. It’s very easy to use. Plus I never could get the hang of Capture One.
Hi Ian. Am I doing something wrong? When I close down the enhanced file in PS to take it back to LR I get a save/save as dialogue box. You didn’t seem to get that in what I watched. If I click save only where will it go?
I’ve tried this method on a xt4 iso 6400 raf and the resulta are a compltly mess. I got lot of artifacts and chromatic noise. I suppose it doesn’t work well with high iso.
I know it means extra expense & more programs but… if you load even high iso and noisy files into Topaz DeNoise AI and manually adjust luminance and colour noise reduction it works wonders. Then you can export a TIFF into Lightroom, PS etc. and do the rest of the steps/editing there. DeNoise also handles sharpening so well (subtle and controllable) that I rarely need any extra, though Sharpen AI is good too, when needed, as is Gigapixel AI if I want a much bigger print (I find that better than the PS enhanced method as it’s so controllable). If I do sharpen in PS I prefer Highpass to Smart Sharpen or Unsharp Mask, then use the layer mode (usually Overlay or Soft Light) and opacity slider - or brushes in areas I don’t want to sharpen - to taste.
I shoot jpeg and raw on Fuji as the jpeg functions as a thumbnail, and a quick image to open directly in preview. Then I dump the junk before wasting time converting raw files I won't want.
...and at the end, take what is now a 100MB image, reduce it to 10% of its size in order to be able to upload it to Instagram or Facebook, where it will be reduced in size and quality once again, because 99,9% of all the viewers will anyway spend no more than 2 seconds of their life looking at it on their tiny mobile phone screens, not giving a damn about the resolution or number of pixels it originally had.
Do you never use the HighPass filter for sharpening? I found that artefacts seem to show less. 30"20" prints all day long even 60"x 40" if you stand the correct distance from it to view the image rather than the morons who are only looking for fault! Do you know if you stand close to a Turner painting you can see his brush strokes, so I was told by a seven-year-old who was fascinated she could see his handiwork. Me I just prefer to stand back and look at any painting he created. Cheers for the info Ian.
Thanks for this Ian. I am fairly new to Fuji files, having recently moved over from Canon, so this is really useful, (until the Lightroom version arrives that is). Looking forward to that day. It will be interesting to see how the Lightroom version stacks up against Photoshop and Capture one. Thanks again.
Medium format is not about resolution but gives more dynamic and tonal range. Their are a lot of mixed results. I use primes as much as is possible. Sharpness is then no issue.
I wish adobe would fix the fuji raw processing. I love my fuji cameras, but the workflow is why i've recently purchased a sony. For a while, i created a tiff in capture one and then edited it in lightroom, but that gets old fast...
@@acousticsong-guitarco964 yes, capture one deals with the files far better, and there is a free version. I tried using it for a couple months, but don't like using the software as much as lightroom, especially when you're moving back and forwards between photoshop. As i've said, one work around is to render out a tiff file in capture one after doing basic processing, then do everything else in lightroom or photoshop.
....BUT this means to make the best, sharpest photo I've got to make them massive files? No thanks. I'm happy with the size of my files as they are. But I would like to know your best processing to avoid worms before using this technique..? @ianworth
The files saved by Adobe Super Resolution are pretty porky, but if you re-save the final versions as TIFF with LZW compression, the result will be no larger than a camera-original file with the same pixel count, or at least that's the result I've been getting. LZW is a lossless compression method, so file quality is not impaired. It you don't want to increase the pixel count of your files to save on space, you can just run the Enhance Details step but skip the Super Resolution step,
You could just select enhance details and not check the super res, this will give you a cleaner image, you can do that in Lightroom if you right click and click enhanced details 👍
@@ian_worth thanks. Before enhance what was your method of sharpening? I think I saw you say you prefer to do so in Photoshop. Why and what settings? Thanks
the GFX cameras do not have issues with rendering in Adobe... the GFX use Bayer type sensor filters - the X-trans cameras use... X-trans - and that can be a challenge with Adobes more or less crappy software ... use Capture One, and you’ll never see artifacts with either Fuji camera output
Thanks for sharing this technique Ian. I switched from Fuji to Sony late last year, but I still have thousands of Fuji files taken over the past several years to cull and edit, so this will come in handy for my best images. As mentioned, I no longer shoot Fuji, but I'm a big fan of your channel, most of your content is applicable to users of all camera brands, and so I'm staying subscribed.
Thanks buddy, 👍👍👍😊
Extra valuable post, a keeper, with clear steps and caveats.👍 Still awaiting LR update, but good to know about this workflow for special photos. Your delight in the method is clear and engaging. Cheers!
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Or maybe Adobe could make raw processing of Fuji files as good as Capture One :-) Useful to know though thx
Capture One made all the difference. I’ve tried many tricks and software, but Capture One does a perfect job. No more worms or other strange artifacts, color treatment is so much better
I've just tried it using a file from my GFX 50S, and it works. But extracting the enhanced TIFF file from photoshop took quite a few seconds on my pretty powerful desktop, and that is just for one photo. A lot of toing and froing which I don't need for 99.9% of my images, but handy to know for the odd special one. Looking forward to the LR version. Thanks Ian.
Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
You are the man. The best explanation of the SuperRes feature out there.
I appreciate that! 😊👍👍
Hello Ian. Yet another very helpful video. I will be trying this new workflow with my portfolio images. Previously I have been using Capture One to render the RAW image file. Save as a TIFF then continue my editing process in Lightroom/Photoshop. The results seemed more natural and less "wormy" particularly in images with trees. I very rarely add sharpening in Photoshop due to the "wormy" artefact issue although some images get away with sharpening.
Can't wait to give this new method ago and compare the results.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Great video! I recently used this option for images published on a billboard, worked very well even if I don't think if it was really necessary because of the big viewing distance. BTW, the folder with the original RAW is already in LR, so you don't need the import dialog box again, just right click on the folder and "synchronise folder".
That's interesting, I need to check that out. Nice one 😊👍👍👍👍
Fantastic! What a fab video Ian. I hate the way Fujifilm files get handled in LR, so this method is definitely a great workaround to having those wormy artifacts in your images 👍
Thank you so much 🙏
Thanks buddy! 👍😊😊
Excellent video Ian. I will have to give that process a go on my landscape photos.
Go for it! 👍👍😊
I moved over to capture one for my fuji files and used that for around 7 months, recently I went back and had a play around in lightrooms and I always seem to get more pleasing results in lightroom, I really don't care about the whole worming thing, unless your viewing the file at 200% you can't see it anyway
Very true 👍👍
Awesome! Not long added an XT-3 to my kit and always worried about the chatter around Fuji and Lightroom. I’ll not worry so much now! Cheers!
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Hi Ian, how much sharpening and detail do you add in LR with your new Fuji X-H2 ?? Thank you 👍
I've found the x-h2 files require a little more sharpening than the 26mp sensor. That being said, i tend to do my sharpening in photoshop for my landscapes👍
@@ian_worth Thanks Ian 👍
This is quality work in a concise package. Thanks for the video, Ian!
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Added this video to my favorites. Thanks Ian, amazing results
Awesome, thank you! 👍👍😊
Import via copy to Lightroom, show file in Explorer (or Finder in MacOS), open in Camera Raw, save from Photoshop, import via add into Lightroom... crikey, that's a lot of steps! I've just been importing my camera-original files using Adobe Bridge, opening selected files into Camera Raw, invoking Enhance/Super Resolution, and then Importing everything into Lightroom in one go. Basically the same steps, I guess, but less jumping around...
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Hi Ian, love your videos and appreciate all the effort you go to to share your awesome Fuji skills. I’m still getting my head round shooting RAW on my X-T3 and am wondering when choosing settings in the IQ menu if it’s best to leave everything at defaults or set HT, ST, color, NR etc to the same as a favorite JPEG simulation recipe in custom settings? Or is it best to keep the IQ settings vanilla and then apply a “look” to RAW files in capture one or x-raw studio or Lightroom? In which case, is eterna the best simulation to use for RAW, as it’s so flat and desaturated? Or does any of this even matter with RAW? I guess I’m just looking for some clarity on how settings in the IQ menu impact RAW files, if at all. Thanks for your help!
Hi, the ht,st etc.. will only be applied to the jpeg and not the raw file. Try using natural live view for the best representation of how the raw file will look on your lcd, you can find it in the menus if you dig around 👍👍😊
Really helpful. Quick and clear- perfect. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! 👍
That is brilliant Ian nice one
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Impressive - well presented Ian
Many thanks! 👍👍
Thanks Ian, I get your excitement.
You and me both! 👍👍
Ooh, I'll be trying this, thank you, sir.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Send from Lr to Ps via Smart Object, double click the Smart Object, ACR opens, Ctrl+Shift+D enables the Super Resolution even thou the option is not there when you right click the photo.
Nice one buddy 🙏🙏👍
Beauty. Thanks Ian this is amazing
Glad you like it!
Great informative video. Where was that photo taken? Looks like Padley Gorge
Yes it was 😊😊
Hi Ian, Can Adobe Raw be used to enhance Fuji raw images to then be used in Capture 1 or another editing application?
Another great one Ian.....
Glad you enjoyed it 👍👍
This does look ridiculously good. Makes me wonder if I should switch to Adobe from Capture one 🤔
The right answer is in the middle. Use Capture One for editing, because colors and micro contrast is way better in Capture One. Then for the final, export as TIFF, import into Photoshop and do this final step.
tried this test on a raw file with a stuff animals in it the amount of detail in the fur is insane . like it wasnt even twice as good but 3x tbh . guess it depends on the image
That's awesome 😁🙏👍
Thanks man ..
No problem! 👍👍
Bravo man
presumably this can be used for canon or nikon files too? thanks for a great video Ian!
Absolutely! 👍👍👍
Super Ian Worthalution.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😂😊👍👍
Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 10 is the best editing software for Fujifilm Raf.
As a matter of fact, they are one who created Fujifilm X raw studio.
the interface of Silkypix is terrible!!! go for capture one for all of your photos - across brands - and you’ll see how good that software is! now i really wish that they get their acts together, and release a native Mac M1 version!
@@mortenthorpe,
Capture One in good too. But Capture One interface in just too busy and similar to Silkypix.
And it does not bother me even in I am obliged to use commands like Linux, as long as quality is the best.
Silkypix is fantastic in terms of image quality. And it provides the actual Film Simulations. Not the reverse engineered C1 versions.
Brilliant!
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Hey mate when I edit in PS from LR I Do not get camera raw as its a tiff and open in PS so I cannot enhance the image as per your tips ??
I wait untill you change your workflow again. So much different experiences with superresolution on RUclips and by myself.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
I started using Iradient X Transformer. It converts RAF files to DNG. Then I can use Lightroom or Photoshop as I normally do. It’s very easy to use. Plus I never could get the hang of Capture One.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Like video
Thanks for liking 👍
Hi Ian. Am I doing something wrong? When I close down the enhanced file in PS to take it back to LR I get a save/save as dialogue box. You didn’t seem to get that in what I watched. If I click save only where will it go?
Hi Malcolm , maybe try saving it, i guess it will appear in the same folder. Maybe some operating systems require a manual save 👍👍👍
I’ve tried this method on a xt4 iso 6400 raf and the resulta are a compltly mess.
I got lot of artifacts and chromatic noise. I suppose it doesn’t work well with high iso.
Probably not as sharpening noise will only make it worse 👍
I know it means extra expense & more programs but… if you load even high iso and noisy files into Topaz DeNoise AI and manually adjust luminance and colour noise reduction it works wonders. Then you can export a TIFF into Lightroom, PS etc. and do the rest of the steps/editing there.
DeNoise also handles sharpening so well (subtle and controllable) that I rarely need any extra, though Sharpen AI is good too, when needed, as is Gigapixel AI if I want a much bigger print (I find that better than the PS enhanced method as it’s so controllable). If I do sharpen in PS I prefer Highpass to Smart Sharpen or Unsharp Mask, then use the layer mode (usually Overlay or Soft Light) and opacity slider - or brushes in areas I don’t want to sharpen - to taste.
Cheers!
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
I shoot jpeg and raw on Fuji as the jpeg functions as a thumbnail, and a quick image to open directly in preview. Then I dump the junk before wasting time converting raw files I won't want.
...and at the end, take what is now a 100MB image, reduce it to 10% of its size in order to be able to upload it to Instagram or Facebook, where it will be reduced in size and quality once again, because 99,9% of all the viewers will anyway spend no more than 2 seconds of their life looking at it on their tiny mobile phone screens, not giving a damn about the resolution or number of pixels it originally had.
Not at all, I like printing my work 👍
Thank God for capture one
still haven't tried it, but i will one day 👍👍
Do you never use the HighPass filter for sharpening? I found that artefacts seem to show less. 30"20" prints all day long even 60"x 40" if you stand the correct distance from it to view the image rather than the morons who are only looking for fault! Do you know if you stand close to a Turner painting you can see his brush strokes, so I was told by a seven-year-old who was fascinated she could see his handiwork. Me I just prefer to stand back and look at any painting he created. Cheers for the info Ian.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
Thanks for this Ian. I am fairly new to Fuji files, having recently moved over from Canon, so this is really useful, (until the Lightroom version arrives that is).
Looking forward to that day. It will be interesting to see how the Lightroom version stacks up against Photoshop and Capture one. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful! 👍👍😊
Medium format is not about resolution but gives more dynamic and tonal range. Their are a lot of mixed results. I use primes as much as is possible. Sharpness is then no issue.
Thanks 👍
I wish adobe would fix the fuji raw processing. I love my fuji cameras, but the workflow is why i've recently purchased a sony. For a while, i created a tiff in capture one and then edited it in lightroom, but that gets old fast...
I tried maaany things, but Capture IS he solution. No more worms and color rendition is so much better
Adobe fix Fuji RAW processing? Is it that cold in hell today?
@@acousticsong-guitarco964 yes, capture one deals with the files far better, and there is a free version. I tried using it for a couple months, but don't like using the software as much as lightroom, especially when you're moving back and forwards between photoshop. As i've said, one work around is to render out a tiff file in capture one after doing basic processing, then do everything else in lightroom or photoshop.
@@ronm6359 😹
23rd.
....BUT this means to make the best, sharpest photo I've got to make them massive files? No thanks. I'm happy with the size of my files as they are. But I would like to know your best processing to avoid worms before using this technique..? @ianworth
The files saved by Adobe Super Resolution are pretty porky, but if you re-save the final versions as TIFF with LZW compression, the result will be no larger than a camera-original file with the same pixel count, or at least that's the result I've been getting. LZW is a lossless compression method, so file quality is not impaired. It you don't want to increase the pixel count of your files to save on space, you can just run the Enhance Details step but skip the Super Resolution step,
You could just select enhance details and not check the super res, this will give you a cleaner image, you can do that in Lightroom if you right click and click enhanced details 👍
@@ian_worth thanks. Before enhance what was your method of sharpening? I think I saw you say you prefer to do so in Photoshop. Why and what settings? Thanks
the GFX cameras do not have issues with rendering in Adobe... the GFX use Bayer type sensor filters - the X-trans cameras use... X-trans - and that can be a challenge with Adobes more or less crappy software ... use Capture One, and you’ll never see artifacts with either Fuji camera output
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 😊👍👍
First tip for maximum sharpnes in Fuji files : Don't use lightroom 😀