How I Process My Fuji XT3 RAW Files
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- In this video I talk about the photography software I use to process my Fuji XT3 RAW files. I test Lightroom's Enhanced Details, Capture One and Iridient X-Transformer and show the results from each. I also make a test print from each method as well as look at low res versions on my phone.
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That IMO is an absolutely fair, reasonable and rational review...how is this possible on the internet??!!
Because Heaton is not your usual everyday "BUY MY PRESETS" RUclips photographer :)
It's Thomas Heaton.
Because this guy has and values his integrity.....
Because Thomas Heaton is on a different level of photography.
Hi Thomas, thanks for another informative video. I use only Fuji X-T3 now. I recently changed to C1 from LR (I have only 7,000 photos). I’m pleased to hear that your X-T3 files in C1 look as good as your Canon full frame files in LR. Fuji shared their algorithms with C1. My Fuji RAW files in C1 look as good as the rich in-camera jpegs by default when processed in C1 so require very little extra tweaking to make them really shine. For anyone wanting to change to C1 from LR there’s a simple process C1 have to do this. There’s plenty of C1 on-line editing help if required and C1 RUclips videos are plentiful as well. I wouldn’t revert back to Lightroom now. I agree with you about wanting to enjoy the editing process. I swapped to Fuji X-T3 to enjoy the process of taking photos mainly with the manual controls rather than horrible menus. I feel happier now to make prints for my photo club friendly competitions.
Thank you for encapsulating the dilemma so many of us face, and rationally resolving it!
Thank you for your efforts on this topic. I have been a Fuji shooter for a few years now and struggled with the best solution for my RAW files. Excellent work as always!
I arrived to the same conclusion. I love to put through iridient my selected 3-5 star files. Like you, I LOVE seeing those details arrive from “nowhere “. I also like this effect of my older xe-2 files. With iridient my X-ray-3 “perceived” resolution trumps my Canon 5dmk4.
Thought this was a really well thought out, balanced, helpful, and practical, piece of advice. Thank you.
The trick with using Lightroom and Fuji RAW files is to do away with the default sharpening it applies. Detail needs to be 0, otherwise it introduces the worms. Just the sharpening slider instead.
This was a great experiment and even better conclusions. Well done Thomas.
I really appreciate the thought and detail that went into this. Very thorough!
Thank you for making this video. I'm an exclusive Fuji-X photographer and so many people give me crap that I don't use Capture One. But in my experience, and as you've stated at the end of the day when you find the process that works best for your files to get a great result I've always found my pictures look great even out of Lightroom. The editing process is fun but sometimes we pixel peep a little TOO hard and end up losing the whole essence of everything I feel like. Great content as always.
A well measured, real world review Thomas, which is always pleasing to see. My Fuji is the X100s that I only use occasionally. I use Olympus and Nikon and my wife uses Canon. I need one software to rule them all.
I started using Iridient Raw Developer over 10 years ago mainly for their Richardson-Lucy Deconvolution sharpening method. This allowed me to extract more detail than using Lightroom or Photoshop. Because of the workflow though I only used it for images that required that detail. Realistically although I have LR 6 I haven't used LR consistently for 8 years or so, so perhaps I am not really in a position to accurately compare the different softwares. It sounds though that the Iridient X-Transformer plugin is a pretty good solution and the developer is good at keeping the software up to date.
I currently use Capture One Pro and have done since version 6 although its only been since version 8 that I use it exclusively. I find its configurability to be one of its main advantages. I have different workspaces depending on the task, and whether I'm on my laptop or two monitor desktop. The introduction of layers, luma ranges and radial mask have allowed me to only need other software for extensive cloning or retouching, HDR and panoramas. For that I use Affinity Photo.
Been using Lightroom and Iridient for years now. My favorite method as well. Good enough and quite simple. I print mostly up to A4 or A3 size anyway. Very happy with results.
That selfie tho! lol
I'm definitely hoping for a "2019 comments" video again! Loved it the past 2 years
A nice and fair video. It seems the most reasonable decision taken.
I'm not sure I've ever wanted anything more than I want that canned Bob Ross.
I ditched lightroom and went over to capture one, for me it looks so good and yes it takes a bit of getting used to but definitely worth it. Great video
Great video as always. I also understand your conclusion, even so I came to a different one.
In the comments to your video one can find very informed recommendations on how to finally get Lightroom to work: Like “It took me a lot of time to figure out, but I found a way to really make the X-T3 files work well in LR….” As a Capture One user it would probably take me a long time to get the software not to work very well, as far as sharpness is concerned😉.
I added Fujifilm as a second camera system, which for many purposes is now my first choice. For me Capture One is the fastest way to get the best possible results with Fujifilm files. And I like my Nikon pictures better, too.
I know, this is not the way you shoot as a landscape photographer. But High ISO Fujifilm pictures really look terrible in Lightroom. Here the differences become very relevant!
Anyway, thanks for all your precious content!
P.S.:
If you don’t shoot High ISO at all you are fine anyway. Almost😉
Thank you for that nugget of information regarding getting them best out of my Fuji file, I will now be going down the Capture one route, as I am new at light room and haven’t really mastered it, but switching from Nikon to Fuji XT30, I want the best from this sensor . Great yippee.
"I printed four different process results and ... couldn't spot the difference." Hahahahaha! It's the revenge of the real world! ¦-))) Good to see you back in Blighty, looking forward to seeing what shenanigans you and the other lunatics got up to on the road trip. Cheers!
I am glad I am not alone Tom. I was horrified 2 years ago when I went from Nikon to fuji xt-2. I found irrident solved most of the problems. I have been using capture one as a trial recently, but it is another £20 per month for the pro version & such a steep learning curve like you I have stuck to Irrident. Hope you don’t sell your Fujifilm as the images are lovely & with the XT-4 looming imminently the future could be even rosier. Have followed you since your first ever video 5 years ago.Good luck & happy shooting.
Another RAW developer you should try out is Fuji's own X-Raw Studio. It basically gives you all of the same options as the camera does for it's internal JPEG conversion. We'd love to see your take on it. Especially with all the film presets and whatnot.
Another option would be Fuji's repackaged version of Silkypix. Silkypix has also released version just for Fujifilm (about $40 I think). The results are very close to what you can get in camera.
"I can understand why the pros use..."
It's so weird to hear you say this because for me you're a real pro and your pictures are a goal for me.
I'd be so happy if i can have the same result as you !
LOL, Yeah I blinked hard when he said that. Just shows what a great, down to earth man he is.
Professional means you are getting paid
@@marcd7332 What?? You think this guy is not getting paid? You're dreaming pal!!
@@madcat1007 Did I say he wasn't getting paid? "pal"
@@marcd7332 You certainly implied it. If it wasn't your intention then what was the point of your remark?
set the detail slider to "0" and see if you get a better result. but i think C1 is still better when it comes to render color.. :)
I did a side by side with Lightroom and capture one and I really don’t see a difference if you edit the photos to have the look.
Capture one gets rid of the worming but when I’ve zoomed in and compared the 2 it just looks like capture has applied noise reduction, to me anyway. The photos seem to lose the crisp edge that I get in Lightroom. I wish I liked capture 1 more as i prefer it but I didn’t see the benefit that others see. Maybe I’m missing something :s.
This is my preferred method.
@@Benjohns89 you dont need any noise reduction if you shoot under 800 iso. ;)
C1 and LR both apply different default sharpening. Fuji files are already pretty sharp out of camera and the LR default over sharpens it causing worming. Setting detail slider to 0 and sharpening slider so 60-100 works really well.
@@LiE_ i did just say that..
Thomas is the best Heaton! **cheers all around**
Very interesting video...But I'm really not surprised. Thanks for the video.
I did the same with just Capture 1 and LR (haven't tried the plug in but will give it a shot). I didn't see enough of a difference to switch when it comes to finished image. I shoot Nikon and Fuji (and have 15+ yrs of images cataloged). Well done video.
When I switched to Fuji 2 years ago I did switch to using the plugin, but I began to worry what if they drop support for the plugin as it's not their main software business...so I did switch to C1 Fuji edition as I only shoot Fujis after selling all my Canon gear a few years back.
Capture one has an import function to import LR catalog with all the metadata. Worth a try for those who need it.
Thanks for the effort! My reason to immediately switch to C1 was as you said, not having a huge catalog and only shooting on Fuji. I switched after clearly noticing Lightroom‘s bad rendering and also really liking C1’s features and interface, but I never did some proper testing on how they compare in detail, so it‘s great to know what you‘ve been experiencing with those 4 methods. :)
I see a BIG difference in quality at 7:37 😉👍
7:38 that selfie doe 😂
I'm sad there was no yearend look back video for 2019. I quite enjoyed watching your reaction to the comments. I know you've been super busy, but it's not too late. It's still January.
The problem is not the x-trans sensor. It is lightroom. Let's not forget adobe posted an 11 billion dollar profit last year, yet they are struggling to find the funds to optimise their raw processor to specific camera brands so that users can get the best results from their specific gear. In their opinion, it is just too difficult..which is kinda interesting when capture one has specific processors for nikon and canon, sony and fuji.
Heaton is trying to tell you, if you would listen, that there is no problem. If you are a Fuji fanboy, just buy Capture one. If you are not but own one of the cameras, use Adobe products. If you want a generalized knowledge of digital imaging in the broad sense without hardware devotion issues, use Adobe.
@@johnsmith1474 What issues ? C1 works much better than lightroom
@@celestialemissary4934 - Huh?
John Smith Not sure what you mean by „hardware devotion issues“, but there are a whole lot of issues with Adobe software. Slow performance being one of them, especially in Premiere Pro. And then there are the security breaches they had, which revealed that they store actual user password on their databases, which is unacceptable for any system. It‘s honestly embarrassing and scary how bad Adobe is in some areas - or as the comment says, they just don‘t care.
C1 is made by a company that cares more than Adobe and puts in more extra effort for details like individual camera profiles, and their product is also better optimised than Adobe‘s solutions overall.
@@Fabio-rg9nv - Fuji cameras are hardware, sorry if I was unclear.
You don't seem to know Photoshop because your complaints are specious: as to speed, Photoshop will handle and manipulate the largest multi gig image files, or dozens of large (25+meg) ones at once, so quickly you cannot work faster than it can process them (presuming you set up your machine and install correctly). The speed limit in Photoshop is the operator not the software. It so rarely crashes I will say it never crashes, and I have beaten the shit out of it trying. Premiere Pro I do not know as I don't do video.
To say, "And then there are the security breaches" is likewise specious. Who cares where Adobe stores passwords? Who the hell cares? You want my Adobe account info? You can have it, it's worthless, what are you going to do, change my avatar image? You cannot do much else! You really do not know what you you are talking about here, just fanning flames to create smoke.
That established, I will join you in criticism of their questionable web-based support. But this is understandable because nobody could afford to babysit all the nitwits asking stupid questions about image editing, so it is a wiki based system of editing support which does create some confusion.
Conversely if you had to call Adobe account support out of India, you get a superb expert who can solve any issue about accounts or installation, and even take remote control of you machine and fix you on the spot and will not let you go until it is fixed. Adobe has the most fantastic support for accounts of any software I have ever owned in the last 35 years.
There is no pixel editing process that cannot be done in Photoshop, most of which most users have never even imagined. I am sure Capture One works perfectly well for most purposes, but it's not Photoshop.
Thomas, Many Thanks!
Indeed, ecosystem is the key, especially with different cameras (former ones or upcoming ones): i will install Iridient plug-in to keep on using LR (consistent workflow on MacBookPro & versatility when jointly used w/ its mobile version on iPhone/iPad).
My go to pre-sharpening method in Lightroom for Fuji files is... Amount-no more than 20 max. View at maximum 1:1 or pixelation occurs. Radius at .05, Detail at 100. This kicks in the deconvolution algorithm. Selective sharpening applied in Photoshop according to output size and destination. i.e. A3, 8.5x11 or web. I still use Unsharp Mask mostly, settings are Amount 500, Radius 0.5, Threshold 0. View at 50% for accurate sharpening rendition, blend mode normal or luminosity depending on the quality of your selections and any haloing. Use opacity slider when viewing at 50% to adjust your crunch. Convert to Smart object and refine in Camera Raw. Sharpening for web is a whole different ball game.
Going back and forth on X-trans files has been driving me mad. - I don't print a lot, but the treatment from Adobe on Fuji RAW files drives me nuts while I'm editing. I tried Capture One for a while, but just couldn't get used to the workflow enough to fully switch.
I didn't know about Iridient, so I'll try the plugin next. Thanks for the video, Thomas!
But up until recently you could to do panos or I think even HDR on Capture One. I believe they recently patterned with Photomatic for HDR.
@@FlorianCortese www.hdrsoft.com/download/beta/photomatix-pro-6.2-and-c1-plugin-merge-to-hdr.php in case you wonder....
@jub - Can you please be more specific. I have a Fuji Xt-2 and do all my RAW processing on Lightroom CC. I usually import my RAW's from my SD card straight to the Lr Mobile App (thank god they have the new feature now to import directly from a connected device) and then I start editing on the Lr mobile app. Then when back home from a trip, I open Lr CC on my desktop and finalize the edits there. It's a great workflow and I've never had any problems with worms or artifacts of any sort. I just don't get what the problems are with the X-trans files. Are there any examples? In Thomas's video he zoomed in to the picture - but I couldn't see any of the artifacts/worms people talk about. Any examples would be great as I try to understand the problem.
Personally, I find the workflow and demosaicing of Iridient a more practical approach, whilst retaining all the benefits of LR.
@@HolgerBuerger Perhaps they don't show up on the mobile app? I only use desktop when I edit so I haven't compared. I would be surprised if it wasn't the same though. You have to look closely, but the worm artifacts are very noticeable when zoomed to 100% or more if you upload through Lightroom. If you search around on RUclips there are probably other videos that show the difference in more detail.
I have come to the same conclusions that you have, Thomas. Using Iridient X Transformer with Lightroom has been my work flow for a couple of years now. I want to stay with Lightroom for the same reasons that you stated. Being able to round trip to Photoshop from Lightroom is very important for my work flow. Using Iridient is an extra step, but it is not too disruptive.
Thanks for sharing your experience. It helped confirm that I am using the best post processing method for my style of photography.
+1
Where in the picture do you see the difference, is it just the worming?
@@smickphoto +2
@@mrsusan893 What does +2 mean?
@@smickphoto +3
It´s so easy to follow that GAS race, wanted bigger better everything. Have my X70 for 3,5 years now and experimented with lots of solutions for process raf-files. Last year i bought a new iPad mini 5 and started to import raw to pictures, heck! it´s looks really good. Bought Affinity Photo to do even more and was very pleased with results. Even my older Sony RX100 looks very good on iPad, maybe thats iPads earnings I don´t know. So do I need a bigger sensor? A better camera? Maybe a bigger iPad, but no need for Pro-model.
A fair assessment I would say. I've heard many good things about Capture One, but like you my workflow is heavily built around LR. I don't shoot Fuji though, and unless the differences with my Nikon RAW files in Capture One are significant, I don't see the value in changing. Never say never though as who knows what the future will bring. If I could find the time though, I should really give the free trial a go.. :-)
I moved to Capture One. But objectively the difference at the end is so small even zoomed in.
I like Capture One, with Fuji film simulation it is good for RAF files, also V20 brings changes that make interface finally usable.
Yay! Thank you for making this video so much! The debate has been raging in my head for the last four months now. Iridiant Developer or Capture 1 and Capture 1 would also require me to upgrade my ageing Mac. Looks like I’ll stick with my current setup and now relax and enjoy it with out worry 🙂
Didn't know about Iridium. Will definitely check it out!
My process is using Lightroom only. Leaving the sharpening details slider around 30-40 but increasing the masking slider. By default it applies sharpness on the whole image and it really exacerbate the wormy effect. Then it set the slider texture around 20 depending on my liking.
It really gives good results without the need to switch to C1 or using Irident or even the enhancing details feature of Lightroom.
If your XT-3 files look over-sharpened in LR, it's probably because they are. I import unsharpened and use as a broad rule sharpening 25-30 with masking AT LEAST twice the sharpening. That seems to work.
sfbdotcom Same!!
Whats your plans for the Fuji going forward, i.e. will it be your go to camera for specific photography adventures and if so do you see further investment in glass for it?
Thanks Tom, brilliant as always.
C1 has always had a superior RAW conversion to anything else in the market, especially LR. The one area where LR excelled when it came to the market was handling large volumes of files that are often generated by event photographers such as wedding shooters. But if you want the best RAW conversion that you can get, C1 is your puppy.
i used first Lightroom only, then later got Iridient Transformer. but with time my Lightroom got sooooo sloooow on my computer, thats the main reason that i switched to capture one. i am amazed by the quality of my fuji files now, but in addition, Lightroom is just no match for capture one also when it comes to speed.
Thomas, thank you for sharing that comparison. You mentioned choosing the Fuji X-T3 setup specifically for your trip to Nepal. Are you sticking with it as your go-to system for future hikes/photo trips?
I think he was shooting with his Canon setup on a recent video that Nick Page uploaded.
Thanks, Thomas! I was wondering about this since I am switching from Canon to Fuji X system in the near future!
It took me a lot of time to figure out, but I found a way to really make the X-T3 files work well in LR.
What I do as a default on import:
- Sharpening 60
- Radius 1
- Detail 0
- Masking 0
Keeping Detail 0 and the Radius not above 1 avoids the wormy artefacts and just makes the file crisp.
But I have to say that I anyway finally sharpen my photos in PS, portraits with Surface Blur Sharpening, the rest with High Pass.
And the results are great!
That's just my tip to maintain the easy workflow of LR --> PS without having to purchase any other software.
Cheers!
That method with Detail at 0 was key for me for my XT-3 raw files until I watched a video similar to this using X-Transformer. The difference is dramatic, X-Transformer raw conversion reveals the actual details in the raw file that I was not getting in Lightroom with Detail to 0 and Sharpening between 50 to 90. This is the second video I've seen on this subject and I am now convinced and using X-Transformer to import my Fuji raw to dng and into Lightroom. I also have Capture One but I'm staying with Lightroom's workflow that I've used for years.
Good approach, but you missed to properly set the masking slider. It's an important part of sharpnening. I tipically set it between 50-70.
I have lightroom automatically take off all sharpening when I import, this makes it work.
Very nice insight. I feel a bit regretful you didn't end up with C1 because I think their editing tools are better tuned and their layer workflow is working better than LR's masks, they still offer perpetual option and they deserve more support and adoption for these reasons. But at the end you chose what works best of you as you should. Keep up the good work!
I use C1 and like it. If I was more of a landscape photographer, I might want to switch to you setup. The reason being that C1 does not do focus stacking, exposure stacking and stitching.
I just tried iridient X-transformer and am really impressed with the amount of extra detail I am seeing in my Fuji files. I will be making this part of my workflow, thanks Thomas!
An image like that won’t really show up, but ones with a lot of foliage or rough rocky texture it gets the watercolour effect. I can even see it on prints.
tallaganda83 you are absolutly right!
There plenty of texture and repeating patterns in that image for it show up, and it shows up quite clearly on screen, and the worst culprit is stone and areas of focus fall off. And to be honest if i was to show you there or four prints developed on three different software packages i know for a fact you couldn't repliably say which is which. To which i then say (as Thomas has said in the video) it seems to not matter a jot. So learn the software of your poison and go about your day.
FYI, the "worm" issue is not specific to Fuji files, as it can be seen on other RAWs that even use Bayer filter arrays. The primary issue is when you apply too much detail (using the Details slider). The trick I've found to avoid this is to decrease details to 0 or near 0, and then keep your radius reasonable (under 1.5, and I keep mine between 0.8 and 1.3 most of the time). The other cause is Adobe's deomsaicing functions in general. I would say that in later versions of LR Classic, say ones that came in late 2020 onward, the deomsaicing has been improved, almost to a point where I can't see a huge difference between Iridient X-Transformer (as with high sharpening settings, both will exhibit the worm problem, but at reasonable sharpening settings, both look very similar so to me this tells me that Adobe has addressed many of the demosaicing issues that plagued earlier versions of LR Classic and Lightroom 6 (say prior to the 2020 releases of LRC).
Ive tried to see a difference I really have with iridient but even at 3.1 I can't tell the difference perhaps it's just old age.
Set your SHARPENING DEFAULT on import to (25, 0.8, 100, 0)
And save the $30 for the plug in. Also, profile your camera/lens and you'll get the same color regardless of Raw editor.
I'd modify this generally good advice in two ways: 1) Use (10, 0.8, 80, 50) to do less sharpening in Lightroom on import, and 2) Roundtrip to Photoshop and sharpen there using your method of choice (I use the Smart Sharpen command with an amount depending on the image and the final image size).
@@draughonc Can you explain more what that means? I have the Fuji Xt-2. How do I profile my camera/lens. Is that in Lightroom or an in Camera setting? Really curious about this.
@@HolgerBuerger lens profile is when you use the Xrite color checker passport. You take a picture of the color checker then save the image as a dng in Lr. That creates a profile of your camera/lens combo. It leads to color accuracy. For details, youtube color checker passport. Hope that helps.
I agree. 40 is too much for the X-T3, anything beyond 30 can be critical, depending on the other settings.
When I move from film to digital in 2003 I learned a hell of lot from professional printers Chau Digital. On prepping files for print and actually what resolution you need.
Quick hypothetical question on the Iridient X. Let's say you finished a landscape shoot and when you arrive back at your computer you use the plug-in to convert all the Fiji RAW files to DNG. Would you delete all the RAF files and keep the DNG's to edit as a file storage solution?
The experiment is incomplete because we do not know if , before import , Thomas changed the LR ( presumably he is using LR Classic latest version ) default sharpening details section sliders to 0 . If he did not then that is why he saw what he saw on his monitor . There is a ton of info about this on the web .
Thanks Thomas, I’ve tried capture 1 can’t do it, but great find iridient.
oh man thank you so much for this video, im literally that guy that cant afford capture one or the transformer plug in which im most likely going to want to get instead of capture one one day. honestly i still not experienced enough to see the flaws or comparisons and so still enjoy editing in lightroom but sometimes i worry at the back of my mind knowing i might be missing out not using capture one.
Capture One makes versions specific to Fujifilm and Sony cameras. It's the full program, but works only with the raw files from that one manufacturer. It's less than half the price of the versions that works with all brands.
@@Bill.Pearson you get updates right or do you need to buy a whole new version later? i have seen their "fuji capture one" package and its just cheaper vs getting versions that appeal to many more brands. so im still considering it
@@JayGrapherTh There may be interim updates, and you can set the program to check for them. But you do not get free updates to the next full release. You do get a hefty discount (about 50%, if I remember correctly) on the new version if you order it during their opening window. They e-mail you announcing it.
They just released version 20 within the last couple of months (skipping from version 12 directly over all the 'teens, and going to version 20--weird, but maybe they are starting to number by year). My update list has version 20 in it, but when I click to download it, a warning pops up that it may be a 'payable' upgrade. So I've passed for now.
I've only been using C1 for 6 months, and it's got way more functionality than I have learned yet, so I'll wait.
But since version 20 is brand new, I'd go ahead and get it. It will be a while before there's a full version upgrade.
Get the free 30-day trial and try it, at least.
There is a much simpler and FREE solution: in LR, slide the sharpness slider to 0 (from the default of 40). Then, when you're done editing the file in LR, sharpen the image in PS. No more worm effect. The problem with LR is that the sharpening algorithm does not work well with X-trans sensor RAW files. PS handles them much better.
Handy tip when editing in Lightroom, take sharpness right down. Send image to photoshop and use sharpen filter then save/send back to Lightroom and add a touch of sharpness there. Give it a shot.
At first, using Capture One can seem very complicated. But in a short time it becomes faster and with better results than in Lightroom. The use of layers is simply fantastic.
Just an observation. On the newest versions of Lightroom, 40 points of sharpening is applied to the Fuji raw files. On the older version like the standalone version of Lightroom 6.1 that I own, 25 is the default for sharpening. I have also noticed that the default detail slider is too much for most Fuji raw files and it makes the worm effect even worse. In my workflow I need to take the detail slider down to no more than 2 and increase the sharpening slider from the default 25 to around 83 on most files and the radius between 1.3-1.4. I think I am going to start using the Iridient plug in moving forward.
Here is a procedure to change the default import settings! Easy to do with the Fuji cameras.
ruclips.net/video/pcrMAJDUd4o/видео.html
Excellent video. I agree that the output is really all that matters. However, I switched to C1Pro (full version) several years ago because I found LR produced unwanted artifacts (results) in more than a few instances, in my images. I shoot a lot of high contrast images during the worst time of day (mid-day) and I found C1Pro could handle that better than LR. I still think LR is easier to use but I get markedly better results with C1Pro. I shoot Fuji and Nikon and C1Pro does seem to provide me with better images. I do believe that LR is very well suited for Canon files.
Thanks for the informative video.
I do not use Lightroom, but use Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop instead for many years now.
When I got my Fuji XT3 the files were like ‘ painted ‘ - just horrible.
I could see it at 100% so if you print an image that big ( and I sometimes do) you dó see that!
I tried Capture One and that program is good, but I am so used to PS..
So now I have the free Capture One Fujifilm Express version and I use that beside PS.
That works great for me.
Not all Fuji files are bad in Adobe- it is especially pictures with things like leaves and stones and grass-
Many little details so to speak.
I also tried irridient X transformer - but Capture One Express performes better in my opinion.
Adobe have a very upper hand over capture one. If you are a full CC subscriber then you get all the other apps alongside Lightroom. So it’s a no brainer for me.
SUPER helpful.
I’ve been through the same process as you and came up with keeping LR and installing the Iridient plug in. However, I also have the free Capture1 programme for Fuji. It seems to do a great job with reducing the LR artifacts. I import and process in this then export it to my LR catalogue. Have you tried it?
I agree with you. LR is terrible for Fuji. I have Luminar 4 now and find the best for my Fuji files. Second Capture 1. Give it a try on Luminar.
Thanks Tom! I have a Fuji and based upon your previous videos about Fuji I downloaded Capture one, but I haven't taken the time yet to really learn it. I appreciate the printing of the images and letting us know the real world results.
You needed to do it for your peace of mind. As a Fuji shooter myself, yes those artefacts are there in Lightroom 'on screen' But as you said.....in print they're absolutely fine. Hence I'm sticking to Lightroom and now have no issues with those worms and artefacts. 99% of viewers and or clients would not even know or tell unless they knew how to look and compare with other RAW files from other manufacturers on screen.
Excellent comparison vid, like you and many others, it’s disappointing to pixel peep XT3 raw files in Lightroom. A year ago, I switched from Nikon full frame cameras to a Fuji system, mainly because of the superior video capabilities. However, those worms you can see when zoomed is a pain, particularly when the jpgs that can be captured are so clean! Still, as you say in the real world it’s not really an issue and I’m very reluctant to switch software too. So, thanks for the heads up regarding the Iridient plug in I shall be giving a whizz. Cheers!
Thomas...have you tried the same in good old, original and still the best, Photoshop ? Camera RAW in PS gives superb results with the FUJI & Cannon files. I've been using PS since version 2 and just cant see the attraction of Lightroom. Lightroom started off as a much cheaper alternative to PS until Adobe started their subscription service and by then so many had become used to Lightroom that they stick with Lightroom. Makes me smile when I see people starting off in Lightroom then transfering their images in to PS to "finish them off".
PhotoShop for ever !!!!
I also have been using LR for years now and when I switched to Fuji X-T3, I got worried hearing about LR not processing the files well, so I got a trial version of C1 to see the difference...
and for me, it didn't warrant the change. Fuji has since updated from the original X-T3 and I don't even see the 'artifacts' or worms in my raw file...and Thomas, how funny are you, when you said: "I can see why the pros like C!" Thomas, You ARE a pro!...and as a pro, you have decided on a Fuji.X-T3 and are going to stick with LR (and the X transformer)...well that's saying a lot for me!!!
I moved from Lr to C1 few years ago. It was very easy to do, overall much cheaper than Lr monthly payments, tutorials with Dave are fantastic, C1 can be modified in many different ways (there is even a work-space resembling that in Lr), tech-support is amazing, so at the end I could adapt C1 to my workflow (despite having a few Tb of photos). I do understand if You really can`t change Your workflow, but if there is a slim chance that You can, give it another try.
And realistically who would ever go back 10 years in their catalogue to re-edit a picture. You can still do it without worrying about the whole catalogue thing.
For most photographers using subscription Photoshop, Lightroom is effectively free.
@@martinjplant yes, that is very true. C1 does not have Photoshop-like capabilities. Luckily I don't use Ps, but if someone does it is a bargain.
Wojtek W This is my issue, for raw editing I prefer C1, but I use PS a lot so unfortunately I need both.
I would switch but I use layers in Photoshop to blend multiple exposures and last time I checked you cannot do that in C1.
Hi Tom. Greetings from Greece. Thank you for this video it was very helpful for me. I would like to hear your opinion/ experience about lightroom vs capture one with canon , Nikon , Sony and Olympus files.. at the moment I have 3 different systems (Canon, Nikon and Olympus) . I tried Canon R + Canon rf 50 1.2 and the results blow my mind.. I would like to stick with just one system and it is also difficult for me to change my work flow from lightroom to capture one ( I tried capture one but I didn't spend much time with it so I can use the new work flow). I must say that I find that lightroom handles files from Canon r much better than the other cameras that I used in the past past. So which system do you believe that is better for lightroom? ( or do you think that capture one is just better overall than lightroom regardless of system). Thank you in advance for your time and help.
Let me tell you, I got an XT3 and I felt so sad because I had to download other plugins just to get a file to work well, I downloaded everything, I sent the camera back and went to Sony, and never looked back, why would people go through this hassle just to get a normal image
Hi Thomas, I am a relatively new Fuji XT2 and lightroom user ( just 18 months )....and also tried two free trials of Capture One. I’ve been very disappointed with lightroom, as my photos are so much cleaner with Capture One. You’ve helped me make up my mind to go the Capture One route ! ...thank you for your time and effort in making this vlog, really appreciate your help 👍
Thanks for this research!
Nowadays I often use Luminar 4. It is a great software. Can use it as a plugin for LR and PS.
I moved from Nikon to Fuji x-t3 and did the exact same process and also ended up with iridient and lightroom
Hi Thomas - I too am a recent convert to X-Transformer with the X-trans sensors. Wondering if you might share your setting sin IridientXT. My understanding is the setting can make a difference in final output IQ. I have been following Thomas Fitzgerald for his recommendations so far with good results. My biggest gripe is the output DNG file size. Thanks again for your great vids!
7:38 I saw that.
i use canon and i love capture one
This is now Sept 2023 = I've recently sold 'all' my Nikon gear and gone for Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujifilm lenses. I use an M1 MacBook Pro and uptodate lightroom. I print using the EPSON P900 and use latest SPIDER for monitor calibrationing. I've recently added Luminar NEO as a plug-in basically for a bit of denoise and sharpening (lowest settings).
I've just printed an A2 on FOTOSPEED paper and it's stunning in every way (to my eyes anyway 😮)
Yes monitor viewing I was a bit concerned ( I use a 4K BENQ EXTERNAL MONITOR), but print was OK
Good to see you back home and at sea level again, must have been a very worrying and trying time for you not to mention the frustration of not being with your party of photographers. My best wishes Thomas.
As someone who also has a large lightroom catalog but also uses a Fuji camera, Hopefully Adobe improves the Fuji raw rendering in the future. Enhance Details is not a sufficient solution for a variety of reasons (extra workflow step, creating a new larger file, and a result that is still not as good as iridient/Capture One).
Have you tried to use Adobe DNG Converter, and then inport the DNG files into Lightroom?
Thanks Thomas and fair enough.
That said ... I switched to C1 a few years back when Adobe came up with their rental-only scheme. I also shifted because my Nikon files looked better after C1 than LR, so my question is: how do your 5D files look after C1?
Just askin'! :-)
I have added capture one to my editing along with lightroom and photoshop. Fuji files look great with capture one and also my nikon files look better as well. I find my processing takes less time on capture one and they look better. If capture one ever allows image blending I might just ditch lightroom altogether.
for blending and more advanced editing (what I could rarely) I use now Affinity Photo. Good enough for small things imho (and very cheap).
Great video Tom, I use the Fuji XT3 as a wedding photographer for my business and I love it. I can understand that for you coming from Canon must have been a little bit of a nuisance but I hope you atleast give it a good extended run as I'm sure over time you might end up using it full time going forward. That's also not to say that Fuji is the best as there are still some things that can be perfected but its nice to see you using the same camera as me and achieving great results.
Anyways, thanks again for all the videos from your Nepal trip. Hope to see more videos with the XT3 soon.
I was under the impression you got a Fuji version of Capture One when you bought a Fujifilm camera. Not true?
Of course you can switch to Capture One! I was forced to switch (Aperture was sunsetted) and I tried Lightroom. User UI was not pleasant so after trying - and buying several other editors I landed on Capture One. If the UI suits you (just like with the camera body) then you'll do better work. So it's nice to have choices. Be glad you don't HAVE to switch.
I think you can get the Express version for Fuji (or Sony) for free, but not the full Studio version.
Thanks for this. Interesting.
I was seriously considering an XT3 to add to my aging Pentax setup .It seems pretty good value at the moment, especially with its recent firmware update. However, I think this and your video on lightweight gear may have put me off. I'm also a light room user so need software that will edit both and switching to Capture one isn't really an option as I'm so used to light room, plus, Capture one is £20 per month whereas LR is £10 per month and you get PS included too!