Just a thought, but doesn't the X-T3 shoot at DR400% at ISO 640 (not sure about the iso setting as the X-T2 is at DR400% at ISO 800). Yes it might and it will be a bit noisier, but you might not have to underexpose as much.
Yeah but now we’re talking about adding all this gear now for just a specific iso. Do what you’d like. I prefer this way, and that’s what I’ve shared haha
All this does is underexposed overall and bring up the shadows in dark areas. It basically does what one might do in post but exposing to avoid highlight clipping, then manually bringing up the shadows in post.
Love your editing videos. I have learned a ton from you the last couple of years and it has really improved my photos. Still have xt2 and picked up a Nikon Z6 last year. There is really not as much as people may think between Fuji apsc and full frame. Fuji is still the most fun to shoot and has wonderful colors and profiles. Thanks as always for the video. 👍
Yup, I still find my old Nikon files cleaner and clearer but whether or not I need it is the real question. Once I changed my mindset fuji is More than enough
I admit: I never shoot photos in RAW before I found your IG. Now I am a LR Subscriber and feel addicted to unlock the hole new potential of my cameras! Thanks man!
Two years ago I migrated to Fuji, coming from Nikon, and this was already a practice that I had in working always underexposed. I really like Fuji's sensor for this, but it's still not like the Nikon D750. Still, I am happier with all aspects of Fuji and I know I can abuse underexposure always! Very good Congratulations! Isn't using ISO 80 better to avoid this noise?
@@Reggiebphoto In theory yes, but in practice the image clicked on Iso 80 m and the optimal dynamic range and less output noise. I've tested this a lot.
I entered the fugi system because of film simulation. Dynamic range is the limitation of xtrans sensor. Before, i was using d7200. That crop sensor has amazing dynamic range. But regardless, I still enjoy using my fugi, it is a fun camera to use.
Impressive restoration, Reggie. An alternative would be to auto-bracket and blend two exposures in Photoshop. About as quick (I think your shutter speed is fast enough that they would line up) and avoids the noise.
I am looking for a tutorial for using the Fujifilm XT3 or XT4 HDR mode on the camera. The settings are grayed out and I don't know how to adjust the settings.
I thought you would explain how to set the dynamic range in camera (which is easy) and using a ND helps too.Why waste all that time in post when the camera lets you do it right the first time?
Hey Reggie, got a question for you regarding Fuji ISO. I also shoot weddings on two XT3s ... I recently went into a situation in a dark church and did not want to use flash during the ceremony, because I find it to distracting. So I shot those on ISO 2000. In Lightroom I had to push those files on more than a stop - so I underexposed them to keep the ISO as low as possible. As I said those files don't look to my satisfaction. So what do you think? Would it have been better to just push the ISO further - so that I did not have to make the files brighter in post!? What is your experience? Cheers from Germany and all the best for 2021. Keep up your awesome work! I really learned a lot from you and you totally earn all of your success here on RUclips and as a photographer!
Hey Reggie! Fujifilm has dynamic range settings, but you need to shot at slightly higher iso to take advantage of this feature. You recommend shooting at lowest possible so obviously you're not using it. Is there any reason behind it? I've seen some mixed advice on this topic and I am really confused about it. Cheers!
Requires non-custom tone curves. I utilize a custom tone curve in my preset for my edits which negates this “baked in” feature. So for my workflow it does not apply. Aside from watching the video, have you tried this on your own?
Reggie, have you ever had any complaints about the noise from clients? I bought fuji xt-3 and honestly having buyers remorse from time to time... I don't mind little bit of noise personally but I'm afraid of reaction from the clients ( i used Nikon D750 and never had such problems) - thanks
Not at all. I get more print sales actually and even did a large 30 inch print and they loved it. I actually received more complaints with the d750 due to the shallow Dof for some shots when I started out. No noise complaints with their system tho.
nice edit, that's pushed a little bit too much for me in terms of noise for anything other than personal work, but it's amazing how much you were able to recover. Also learned something new with the advanced way you applied the mask. Good stuff.
Hey Reggie, love your awesome work 🙏 I just tried again the iridient x transformer and set it to smooth and default sharpening and the results are fantastic. This is not criticism at all, just saying 😊
Reggie, Very Cool! I didn't know about that Luminance Mask technique you demonstrate. And like your approach of using graduated slider on all four sides rather than the Vignette slider. Thanks, Craig
Hi Reggie , would you be able to share a sample RAW image of this type for personal test ? i am owner of d750 with idea of switching to xt3 and would love to do own side by side test in the actual LR . thanks!
Thanks Reggie, very informative video. I use Capture One Pro, so I'll have to figure out how to translate some of what you were demonstrating to that software. I often struggle with focusing in the dim light shown in your example photo. If you have any tips for that, I'd love to hear them!
At 1/6400 how many stops of gain did you add in post? Would it have been better to drop the shutter as much as possible to reduce how much you need to boost exposure in post? You could lose a little more sun to reduce the noise.
Great video but you don't tell us how to find enlarge histogram so I can apply it with a function button. Always find the histogram is too small but never knew it could be enlarged. Where is that option in the menu. Once I know where it is and what it's called I will get it on a function button.
Thank you for all the tutorials 👍🏻 if you could in the future share the reason to use brackets/situations/settings, it would definitely be interesting to have your attention on that aspect of photography. 😊
The right tool for the shoot depends on the photographer. I don’t use flashes on site for portrait sessions like this. Perhaps for you it’s the correct tool and that’s totally what’s right for you.
I bought into Fujifilm because of the many great reviews I kept hearing about them. I bought a Fujifilm x-t3 brand new from best buy, and a 23mm 1.4 secondhand. Now I don't know if I got a bad camera out of the bunch or what but I couldn't get sharp images for the life of me. I'm not a professional by any means but I am above average. I'm just sad because the camera I had gave me a bad taste when it comes to fuji film. Now I'm scared to buy any of their other cameras because I'm afraid of running into the same problem...
I have a question. If I use shutter speed as something 1/125 rather than 1/2000 or more and ISO 400-800, will I not get better exposure? And then just minor changes in raw file and use preset and you get better image? Of is it that you click with such high shutter speed and lower iso and then edit and dynamic range and overall image quality increases? It would have been great if you could have shared a comparison image of same scene - 1 - clicked in normal way and then edited further vs the way you suggested. Then I would be able to appreciate the difference
THANKS SO MUCH, I'M WATCHING THIS THREE YEARS AFTER IT WAS POSTED AND THIS VIDEO IS STILL SUPER RELEVANT AS IT'S TIMELESS AND I WAS LOOKING FOR EXACTLY THE INFO YOU PROVIDED. ALSO I'M A BIG FAN OF YOUR REGGIE'S PORTRA SIMULATION SO THANK YOU FOR THAT AS WELL. USING IT FOR ALMOST EVERYTHING!
Hmmmm, holdup. On my x-t2 I’ve always thought that iso 800 gave me the most dynamic range? Or does 200 have less “dynamic range” but more flexibility in post?
I love Lightroom and it’s very intuitive and user friendly for me, but Capture One is miles better with Fuji files for noise reduction and sharpening. Too bad I can’t use your presets with Capture One .
@@Reggiebphoto there is no need for sorry 😃 I enjoy your videos, and I like your work in general, so I try to apply lot of that in my amateur photo fun. Thanks man . (Sorry for my english)
It's a nice motive of the couple but it's extremely flat in contrast because you lifted the blacks that much. Maybe that's your style idk. But when printed it's not gonna stand out because it's flat. Especially because the couple is unlit and also the sky is the brightest so the eyes go to the sky. Also on a screen it's a lot different to look at because it's backlit, than a picture on a wall because it's rarely lit well. Hope you see this as a constructive photocritic and not as a harsh post.
Why dont you turn on the range mask before any adjustments, then use the mask sliders to show where the adjustments are taking place, then toggle off and use your adjustments.
It has good dynamic range but where it does worse it’s it doesn’t have as clean of files. For that either get over it or get the system with cleaner files. No way around it
@@Reggiebphoto do you have a video on using bracket mode during a shoot? The Part im confused on is how do you keep them looking natural after many exposure shots wouldnt they all not be the same? And is there a reason you chose bracket mode vs focusing in the dark at base iso? Thanks!
in essence it means that you won’t be able to recover that area when you try to make it brighter (in the case of shadows) or darken (in the case of highlights).
I use LR and no worries. I zero all of the detail panel items to zero and use w Topaz AI DeNoise. It has a little sharpening in it. To you may be pixel peeping which I never do.
@@Reggiebphoto I was just commenting about having worms in LR. I do not follow anyone process but my own......you are excellent and do a great job. Each to their own
@@Reggiebphoto I just realized how many typos were in that sentence. Anyway, exactly. So, the sensor shouldn't be fully blamed for the noise. Though there are definitely better-performing sensors, with digital, it's almost always better to properly expose or ETTR for better noise performance.
Like I said it would’ve been blown out, eg clipped highlights. I get what you’re saying. And I do this for high iso shots. This was not a shot where I was trying to reduce noise . If you want to see my approach to minimizing noise I have a low light wedding and a low light editing video
@@Reggiebphoto I understand that. My point is that, in the video, the noise is attributed to the sensor rather than the area experiencing high noise being under exposed. It's sue to both, but it's mostly because of underexposure. Anyway, I'll make sure to watch those videos. Thanks!
Sounds like a lot of rubbish: (3) AVOID HIGHLIGHT CLIPPING - (4) AVOID SHADOW CLIPPING What a total laugh. Executing one automatically means implying the other. Can't see how doing both (at the same time) is achievable in circumstances like the example pictures.
Presets are 50% off for the rest of the year! Get em cheap while you can reggiebphotography.com/fujifilm-preset
Is your RBP unlimited preset still available? I can only see Home - Faded Film preset on Moment.
It’s the the same preset just different name
Who else noticed that he recorded this video at 4 in the morning. Respek.
Been waking up at 3am these days rather than staying up late. Gotta make some sacrifices to have regular work time. Appreciate you noticing lol
@@Reggiebphoto Hard work pays off. Always enjoy your videos!
Thanks!
Just a thought, but doesn't the X-T3 shoot at DR400% at ISO 640 (not sure about the iso setting as the X-T2 is at DR400% at ISO 800). Yes it might and it will be a bit noisier, but you might not have to underexpose as much.
Iso 640 would peak the mechanical shutter speed. It’s more than 2 stops brighter than what I was at at 1/6400
@@Reggiebphoto with an nd filter¿
Yeah but now we’re talking about adding all this gear now for just a specific iso. Do what you’d like. I prefer this way, and that’s what I’ve shared haha
All this does is underexposed overall and bring up the shadows in dark areas. It basically does what one might do in post but exposing to avoid highlight clipping, then manually bringing up the shadows in post.
Love your editing videos. I have learned a ton from you the last couple of years and it has really improved my photos. Still have xt2 and picked up a Nikon Z6 last year. There is really not as much as people may think between Fuji apsc and full frame. Fuji is still the most fun to shoot and has wonderful colors and profiles. Thanks as always for the video. 👍
Yup, I still find my old Nikon files cleaner and clearer but whether or not I need it is the real question. Once I changed my mindset fuji is
More than enough
I admit: I never shoot photos in RAW before I found your IG. Now I am a LR Subscriber and feel addicted to unlock the hole new potential of my cameras! Thanks man!
Yes, it’s a whole nother world
Heya Reggie! The noise looked pretty good, in my opinion. Kinda as if it were an actual physical photo. Thanks for the video!
Yup it really isn’t bad. People focus too much on - imagine if a full frame took
This Rather than how good a shot
Is on its own
This is an extremely good, brief tutorial that can be widely applied to pictures that many people will take. Thank you!
Two years ago I migrated to Fuji, coming from Nikon, and this was already a practice that I had in working always underexposed. I really like Fuji's sensor for this, but it's still not like the Nikon D750. Still, I am happier with all aspects of Fuji and I know I can abuse underexposure always! Very good Congratulations!
Isn't using ISO 80 better to avoid this noise?
ISO 80 applies post processing. The base iso is iso 160
@@Reggiebphoto In theory yes, but in practice the image clicked on Iso 80 m and the optimal dynamic range and less output noise. I've tested this a lot.
Keep doing what works for you then my friend
I entered the fugi system because of film simulation.
Dynamic range is the limitation of xtrans sensor.
Before, i was using d7200. That crop sensor has amazing dynamic range.
But regardless, I still enjoy using my fugi, it is a fun camera to use.
The X-Trans 5 sensors have excellent dynamic range IMO.
Great video as always. It never ceases to amaze me how much dynamic range modern cameras have!
Yup. Best used in moderation. This is only one shot of the entire set delivered to the Client
But for a paying client you would bracket or use a flash right?
These clients paid for the work.
Impressive restoration, Reggie. An alternative would be to auto-bracket and blend two exposures in Photoshop. About as quick (I think your shutter speed is fast enough that they would line up) and avoids the noise.
This was a bracketed shot but I only use one of the exposures
You can also bracket with correct exposure, 2 stops under and 2 stops over. Merge those three shots in Lightroom. Voila!
🤘🏽
This was super informative and helpful! Thanks for sharing!
I am looking for a tutorial for using the Fujifilm XT3 or XT4 HDR mode on the camera. The settings are grayed out and I don't know how to adjust the settings.
Thanks for video. Fujifilm XT3 or XS10? which one gives better quality results in photo?
Same sensor and same processor. So same quality
I thought you would explain how to set the dynamic range in camera (which is easy) and using a ND helps too.Why waste all that time in post when the camera lets you do it right the first time?
Different use case
You want to use an ND on a human subject? Try it and see what happens.
@@markm4263 Of course you can use ND filters for human subjects. Wtf
Hey Reggie, got a question for you regarding Fuji ISO. I also shoot weddings on two XT3s ... I recently went into a situation in a dark church and did not want to use flash during the ceremony, because I find it to distracting. So I shot those on ISO 2000. In Lightroom I had to push those files on more than a stop - so I underexposed them to keep the ISO as low as possible. As I said those files don't look to my satisfaction. So what do you think? Would it have been better to just push the ISO further - so that I did not have to make the files brighter in post!? What is your experience?
Cheers from Germany and all the best for 2021. Keep up your awesome work! I really learned a lot from you and you totally earn all of your success here on RUclips and as a photographer!
For low light shooting at the correct iso is usually the way to go. Do not rely on rely it further in post ruclips.net/video/to7Pg4qOeKs/видео.html
Hey Reggie! Fujifilm has dynamic range settings, but you need to shot at slightly higher iso to take advantage of this feature. You recommend shooting at lowest possible so obviously you're not using it. Is there any reason behind it? I've seen some mixed advice on this topic and I am really confused about it. Cheers!
DR setting only applies to JPEGs and i shoot in raw.
Requires non-custom tone curves. I utilize a custom tone curve in my preset for my edits which negates this “baked in” feature. So for my workflow it does not apply. Aside from watching the video, have you tried this on your own?
Cool. Maybe next time you can reply directly to his comment rather than tagging me since it was intended to answer his question 🙌🏽
Reggie, have you ever had any complaints about the noise from clients? I bought fuji xt-3 and honestly having buyers remorse from time to time... I don't mind little bit of noise personally but I'm afraid of reaction from the clients ( i used Nikon D750 and never had such problems) - thanks
Not at all. I get more print sales actually and even did a large 30 inch print and they loved it. I actually received more complaints with the d750 due to the shallow Dof for some shots when I started out. No noise complaints with their system tho.
@@Reggiebphoto Thanks for answering, keep up with your great work and take care 🙏 - love your videos 👍
Thanks for the question!
I came the same way!
I still suffer from the noise of high ISO, and in that the D750 was unbeatable!
Topaz Denoise AI and you won't think about noise anymore ;)
Keep em coming. Learning a lot from you. 🙏🏻
Any suggestions?
Using this technique, how do you reference what shot was captured in the moment with such under exposed image?
nice edit, that's pushed a little bit too much for me in terms of noise for anything other than personal work, but it's amazing how much you were able to recover. Also learned something new with the advanced way you applied the mask. Good stuff.
Interesting, although I wonder if it may may have been better with a bit of fill-in flash on the couple
Flash is not allowed in this church.
Thank you so much Reggie!
Fantastic tutorial. I learned a ton. Thank you for posting.
You’re welcome!
Nice video! Saved in my photography video's playlist hehe :D
Awesome!
Hey Reggie, love your awesome work 🙏
I just tried again the iridient x transformer and set it to smooth and default sharpening and the results are fantastic. This is not criticism at all, just saying 😊
Cool. I have it and don’t prefer to use x transformer for client work.
Those gradient masks for exposure are great. I'm gonna try to translate it into Capture One
🤘🏽
Gradients with added Luma masks in C1 is fantastic.
WOW, incredible! Thanks for sharing your talent.
Thanks for the comment
Great job man. Thanks
Thanks!
Reggie, Very Cool! I didn't know about that Luminance Mask technique you demonstrate. And like your approach of using graduated slider on all four sides rather than the Vignette slider. Thanks, Craig
Thanks for the comment Craig
Thanks alot Reggie! Great vid!!
You’re welcome!
Very cool video. Always enjoy your content 👍
Hi Reggie , would you be able to share a sample RAW image of this type for personal test ? i am owner of d750 with idea of switching to xt3 and would love to do own side by side test in the actual LR . thanks!
You can download raws from dpreview. Unfortunately I don’t feel comfortable sharing raws with my clients in them.
@@Reggiebphoto Fair enough! thanks
Yup
Thanks for the amazing video. well done !
Thanks for watching!
nice little gradient mask trick at the end! 👍
Yes, comes in so clutch
Great tutorial, thanks
Lots of good info in here.
Yes!
Thank you
Dude, that was brilliant!
🙌🏽
Thanks Reggie, very informative video. I use Capture One Pro, so I'll have to figure out how to translate some of what you were demonstrating to that software. I often struggle with focusing in the dim light shown in your example photo. If you have any tips for that, I'd love to hear them!
The exposure is dim but the actual shooting situation is bright.
At 1/6400 how many stops of gain did you add in post? Would it have been better to drop the shutter as much as possible to reduce how much you need to boost exposure in post? You could lose a little more sun to reduce the noise.
1.7 stops. I would’ve blown out the sky a lot more.
Anyway to get your presets if I only use iPad Pro??
I haven’t tried just iPad pro only for install. So I can’t guarantee of ThAts psossible
Thanks so much for this bro, so useful!
You’re welcome!
Very informative, thanks for taking the time :)
Thanks for watching
Such an informative video bro🙏🔥💗
I’m glad. What part did you like best?
Great video but you don't tell us how to find enlarge histogram so I can apply it with a function button. Always find the histogram is too small but never knew it could be enlarged. Where is that option in the menu. Once I know where it is and what it's called I will get it on a function button.
Rgb histogram is the name of the function :)
wow thankyou, i'll do this.
Thank you for all the tutorials 👍🏻 if you could in the future share the reason to use brackets/situations/settings, it would definitely be interesting to have your attention on that aspect of photography. 😊
I actually share these approaches on my behind the scenes videos
Do you shoot in compressed or uncompressed raw?
Lossless compressed
suscribed! Cheers Reggie.
🙌🏽
What about the terrible color fringing on the horizon? A flash would have been the right tool for this shot.
The right tool for the shoot depends on the photographer. I don’t use flashes on site for portrait sessions like this. Perhaps for you it’s the correct tool and that’s totally what’s right for you.
hey reggie may i ask why do you use lr to edit fuji's raw? isn't it has a wormy artifact? is it not affecting any of your weddings?
It’s what i prefer to edit eith. It doesn’t affect my weddings
...this technique was magnified by Pye of slrlounge many many years ago
Oh nice! To be honest, nothing in my channel is new or novel.
I bought into Fujifilm because of the many great reviews I kept hearing about them. I bought a Fujifilm x-t3 brand new from best buy, and a 23mm 1.4 secondhand. Now I don't know if I got a bad camera out of the bunch or what but I couldn't get sharp images for the life of me. I'm not a professional by any means but I am above average. I'm just sad because the camera I had gave me a bad taste when it comes to fuji film. Now I'm scared to buy any of their other cameras because I'm afraid of running into the same problem...
That’s always a risk of buying second hand
Try a different lens. The 23mm Fuji lenses are known to be some of the softest lenses they make. Get a 35mm f2 instead.
Maybe you are using lightroom. Try using capture one instead.
Definitely learned something new
Nice. Can you share what the biggest takeaway was?
I have a question. If I use shutter speed as something 1/125 rather than 1/2000 or more and ISO 400-800, will I not get better exposure? And then just minor changes in raw file and use preset and you get better image? Of is it that you click with such high shutter speed and lower iso and then edit and dynamic range and overall image quality increases? It would have been great if you could have shared a comparison image of same scene - 1 - clicked in normal way and then edited further vs the way you suggested. Then I would be able to appreciate the difference
THANKS SO MUCH, I'M WATCHING THIS THREE YEARS AFTER IT WAS POSTED AND THIS VIDEO IS STILL SUPER RELEVANT AS IT'S TIMELESS AND I WAS LOOKING FOR EXACTLY THE INFO YOU PROVIDED. ALSO I'M A BIG FAN OF YOUR REGGIE'S PORTRA SIMULATION SO THANK YOU FOR THAT AS WELL. USING IT FOR ALMOST EVERYTHING!
why are you screaming?
Does this technique work for night portraits where the sky is predominantly black ? Wanting to avoid higher ISO .
No. It will exacerbate the situation. This is not intended for low light
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
To get the best dynamic range of an image, shouldn't we shoot at native iso rather than base iso? I believe on fujifilm native iso is iso640.
Do what works for you my friend. In practice I get great results with iso 160
@@Reggiebphoto thanks for the reply buddy! Happy shooting!
Appreciate the comment
10:42 why don't you use a radial filter for this?
Just preference
Hmmmm, holdup. On my x-t2 I’ve always thought that iso 800 gave me the most dynamic range? Or does 200 have less “dynamic range” but more flexibility in post?
To induce a sneeze, stare into a bright light-not the sun, but a clear sky will do.
Lol
I love Lightroom and it’s very intuitive and user friendly for me, but Capture One is miles better with Fuji files for noise reduction and sharpening. Too bad I can’t use your presets with Capture One .
Sorry about that.
@@Reggiebphoto there is no need for sorry 😃 I enjoy your videos, and I like your work in general, so I try to apply lot of that in my amateur photo fun. Thanks man . (Sorry for my english)
It's a nice motive of the couple but it's extremely flat in contrast because you lifted the blacks that much. Maybe that's your style idk. But when printed it's not gonna stand out because it's flat. Especially because the couple is unlit and also the sky is the brightest so the eyes go to the sky. Also on a screen it's a lot different to look at because it's backlit, than a picture on a wall because it's rarely lit well. Hope you see this as a constructive photocritic and not as a harsh post.
Well they printed it. And they’re mom printed it too. No complaints. Thads all that matters to me
@@Reggiebphoto That what matters. And thank you for great content. 😀
Yup glad we agree there :)
Why dont you turn on the range mask before any adjustments, then use the mask sliders to show where the adjustments are taking place, then toggle off and use your adjustments.
Just preference.
When people say Fuji has bad dynamic range. Where? What's your basis without using the system?
It has good dynamic range but where it does worse it’s it doesn’t have as clean of files. For that either get over it or get the system with cleaner files. No way around it
How do you focus properly, when the subjects are that dark?
I shot this in bracket mode and even if it was dark, the camera brightens up the image when attempting to achieve focus
You could also turn change the "Preview ex / wb in manual mode" to just WB.
You could. But this changes the highlight warning functionality which is key for my workflow
@@Reggiebphoto do you have a video on using bracket mode during a shoot? The Part im confused on is how do you keep them looking natural after many exposure shots wouldnt they all not be the same? And is there a reason you chose bracket mode vs focusing in the dark at base iso? Thanks!
Yeah I show the bracket use in 3 or 4 videos. One being my 1 year xt3 review.
do you have these same presets for Capture 1?
No I do not
Wow... No need to carry strobes... Amazing 🤯
It’s not a replacement but just a different approach.
Great !!
Perfect 🤘🏻
🙌🏽
What does Reggie mean when he says "clip"?
I’ve got some tutorials on my Instagram about histogram stuff. Check it out
in essence it means that you won’t be able to recover that area when you try to make it brighter (in the case of shadows) or darken (in the case of highlights).
what about DR400%? (in I.Q. menu)
Requires higher iso which means I would’ve had to change my exposure aperture /shutter settings to compensate
I still cant get my files to not have worms in them using lightroom
I have tons of tutorials on this. If you’re still not satisfied with the results just switch over to capture one lol
I use LR and no worries. I zero all of the detail panel items to zero and use w Topaz AI DeNoise. It has a little sharpening in it. To you may be pixel peeping which I never do.
@@Reggiebphoto i watched every video and i cant get a single file without worms. I just got capture one.. i have to learn it though
I share my process, if following it doesn’t give you good results then my process isn’t right for you.
@@Reggiebphoto I was just commenting about having worms in LR. I do not follow anyone process but my own......you are excellent and do a great job. Each to their
own
Thanks Reggie . Do yourself a favour and download a fully functional free 30 day trial of Topaz Denoise Ai . Outstanding.
Cool!
The noise on their faces is because it was they were under-exposed during the exposure. A properly exposed portion would not produce so much noise.
Yup this is true. And I delivered properly exposed shots too but those had blown out skies
@@Reggiebphoto I just realized how many typos were in that sentence. Anyway, exactly. So, the sensor shouldn't be fully blamed for the noise. Though there are definitely better-performing sensors, with digital, it's almost always better to properly expose or ETTR for better noise performance.
Like I said it would’ve been blown out, eg clipped highlights. I get what you’re saying. And I do this for high iso shots. This was not a shot where I was trying to reduce noise . If you want to see my approach to minimizing noise I have a low light wedding and a low light editing video
@@Reggiebphoto I understand that. My point is that, in the video, the noise is attributed to the sensor rather than the area experiencing high noise being under exposed. It's sue to both, but it's mostly because of underexposure. Anyway, I'll make sure to watch those videos. Thanks!
👍🏽
👍🏻👍🏻✌🏻
🙌🏽
How do you put the highlight warning on on the xt3?
Display custom settings, live view highlight alert
Why don't u just expose on the couple?
🥰
I’m the first?!!!!!
Are you?!
"Lowest iso possible" is not always good advice any more, as fuji cameras have dual native iso.
This is daylight. Raising iso would have clipping. Smh
what is that annoying buzz/noise over the whole video?..
Not sure could be interference
Sounds like a lot of rubbish: (3) AVOID HIGHLIGHT CLIPPING - (4) AVOID SHADOW CLIPPING
What a total laugh. Executing one automatically means implying the other. Can't see how doing both (at the same time) is achievable in circumstances like the example pictures.
Thanks for your amazing comment! Have a great day my friend!
Or just shoot with a smartphone and HDR AI haha
If that’s what your preference is, go for it!