Greetings: You neglected to show that when the plug is in and the radio is ON there is no voltage on the chassis until you turn the radio OFF. Then the chassis is HOT using the path through the heaters! (Yes, the radio will be its own current limiter, but you will still get a nasty shock or even die). Best is with a polarized plug in a known correctly wired outlet and the hot lead goes directly to the power switch, then the chassis is safe until the radio is powered ON. Then this circuit limits the chassis via R11 470k and C20 .05 mfd which should be replaced with an X1/Y2 .01 mfd safety cap. C14 .05 mfd "across the line" when switched ON. It should be protected by a mains fuse in the HOT lead.
You not going to put a polarized plug on that thing? You not going to polish the cabinet up some? You need to see a doctor about that Parkinson's while you still have time
Greetings: You neglected to show that when the plug is in and the radio is ON there is no voltage on the chassis until you turn the radio OFF. Then the chassis is HOT using the path through the heaters! (Yes, the radio will be its own current limiter, but you will still get a nasty shock or even die). Best is with a polarized plug in a known correctly wired outlet and the hot lead goes directly to the power switch, then the chassis is safe until the radio is powered ON. Then this circuit limits the chassis via R11 470k and C20 .05 mfd which should be replaced with an X1/Y2 .01 mfd safety cap. C14 .05 mfd "across the line" when switched ON. It should be protected by a mains fuse in the HOT lead.
Thanks. Interesting insight.
So, are you going to cut the plug off and fit a polarised one?
You not going to put a polarized plug on that thing? You not going to polish the cabinet up some? You need to see a doctor about that Parkinson's while you still have time