Fibber's Closet
Fibber's Closet
  • Видео 136
  • Просмотров 80 258
New Zenith 9E21 Dialplate Gasket
The original foam rubber went all rotten on this late-40s Zenith chassis, so I came up with a possible alternative.
Просмотров: 125

Видео

GE 514 Episode 9 Wrapping it Up
Просмотров 1623 месяца назад
At long last, it's done. Wrapping it up, featuring Fibber and Molly in "Detective McGee" from 1951.
GE 514 Episode 8 Cleaning Up the Cabinet
Просмотров 1733 месяца назад
Trying to get the plastic cabinet to shine, ultimately falling back on an old standby.
GE 514 Episode 7B Telechron Alarm Clock
Просмотров 2703 месяца назад
Adding oil to the Telechron motor, lubing the rest of the clock mechanism.
GE 514 Episode 7A Telechron Clock History
Просмотров 2063 месяца назад
A little background on the Telechron clock used in the GE 514.
GE 514 Episode 6 Finishing the Chassis
Просмотров 3353 месяца назад
Wrapping up the chassis, making the decision whether to stick with the modified 50B5 output tube, or return the radio to stock with the 50C5.
AM Detector and AVC
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.4 месяца назад
Part of the Fundamentals series describing how the AM detector and Automatic Volume Control circuits work in a GE-514 AA5 radio.
Leader Signal Generator Revisited Part 3 Finishing Up
Просмотров 2657 месяцев назад
Hooking it all up and putting the frequency counter in its box.
Leader Signal Generator Revisited Part 2 Trying Frequency Counter
Просмотров 3987 месяцев назад
Find a voltage and signal source, tack it in and try it out.
Leader Signal Generator Revisited Part 1 Adding a Frequency Counter
Просмотров 6277 месяцев назад
Borrowing an idea from xraytonyb to add a frequency counter to my Leader Signal Generator. Here's the xraytonyb video: ruclips.net/video/3Mgg8wvyDHw/видео.htmlsi=VlIgA9TuiP3NQL0S PLJ-8LED-H RF Frequency Counter from Amazon.
GE 514 Episode 5 Wrong Tube?
Просмотров 243Год назад
The power output tube that came with the radio was a 50B5. Schematic says it should be a 50C5.
GE 514 Episode 4 Two Schematics and Safety
Просмотров 465Год назад
Two different schematics exist for this chassis. We'll see why and which one is on the bench.
GE 514 Episode 3 Peculiar Tube Sockets
Просмотров 211Год назад
We take a look at the peculiar tube sockets GE used in this model, and discover why.
GE 514 Episode 2 First Look at the Chassis
Просмотров 178Год назад
Getting the chassis free of the cabinet and clock lets us take a first look, both on top and underneath.
GE 514 Episode 1 Overview and Chassis Removal
Просмотров 185Год назад
A little GE Clock Radio from 1953, with an All-American chassis plus a surprise or two.
Zenith 5R086 Episode 16 Revisited
Просмотров 243Год назад
Zenith 5R086 Episode 16 Revisited
Heathkit C-3 Episode 3 - How does it do what it does?
Просмотров 409Год назад
Heathkit C-3 Episode 3 - How does it do what it does?
Heathkit C 3 Condenser Checker Episode 2
Просмотров 417Год назад
Heathkit C 3 Condenser Checker Episode 2
Heathkit C-3 Episode 1 Opening the box
Просмотров 442Год назад
Heathkit C-3 Episode 1 Opening the box
Zenith TransOceanic 700Y Episode 4 Power Please
Просмотров 446Год назад
Zenith TransOceanic 700Y Episode 4 Power Please
Zenith TransOceanic D7000Y Episode 3 Replacing Caps
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.Год назад
Zenith TransOceanic D7000Y Episode 3 Replacing Caps
Zenith TransOceanic D7000Y Episode 2 Disassembly
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.Год назад
Zenith TransOceanic D7000Y Episode 2 Disassembly
Zenith TransOceanic D7000Y Episode 1 First Look
Просмотров 727Год назад
Zenith TransOceanic D7000Y Episode 1 First Look
GE 107 Episode 5 The Moment of Truth
Просмотров 837Год назад
GE 107 Episode 5 The Moment of Truth
GE 107 Episode 6 Clean and Finish
Просмотров 533Год назад
GE 107 Episode 6 Clean and Finish
GE 107 Episode 4 Replacing Capacitors
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.Год назад
GE 107 Episode 4 Replacing Capacitors
GE 107 Episode 3 Selecting Capacitors
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.Год назад
GE 107 Episode 3 Selecting Capacitors
GE 107 Episode 2 Looking it Over
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.Год назад
GE 107 Episode 2 Looking it Over
GE 107 Episode 1 Repairing a Vintage Radio
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.Год назад
GE 107 Episode 1 Repairing a Vintage Radio
Dim Bulb Tester Make One
Просмотров 5 тыс.Год назад
Dim Bulb Tester Make One

Комментарии

  • @davearmstrong1932
    @davearmstrong1932 59 минут назад

    Thank you

  • @davearmstrong1932
    @davearmstrong1932 Час назад

    Thank you for this. Great job !

  • @Ekalai
    @Ekalai 13 дней назад

    🌹🌹💖💖👍👍👌👌👏👏🙂🙂🙏🙏

  • @user-zs3yf8mz8m
    @user-zs3yf8mz8m 21 день назад

    Is there an episode 2? Thanks

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 20 дней назад

      Yes, there are six. You can start here: ruclips.net/video/2hSzNit7fOo/видео.html

  • @scgoatfarmer
    @scgoatfarmer Месяц назад

    Hello I am in the process of restoring this console and I am alarmed to see that it contains asbestos. Is it dangerous to work with this? Is the clear coat and the aluminized tape enough to safely mitigate this?

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 Месяц назад

      @@scgoatfarmer I believe that asbestos is only hazardous if it’s disturbed. A couple of coats of clear coat and a layer of tape will seal the asbestos and prevent it from breaking down into hazardous particles. This treatment is, in my opinion, far safer than trying to remove the material. Proceed at your own risk.

    • @scgoatfarmer
      @scgoatfarmer Месяц назад

      @@fibberscloset498 makes me a little nervous. I also turned over the radio chassis and it looks like the audio transformer (I could have that wrong) is wrapped in insulation that looks suspicious for asbestos. As far as you know was there asbestos in the radio chassis as well?

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 Месяц назад

      @@scgoatfarmer it would surprise me if the audio transformer was insulated with asbestos. There would be no reason for it. As far as I am aware, there is no more asbestos in the chassis.

  • @michaelvice3976
    @michaelvice3976 Месяц назад

    How you remove the platter ?

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 Месяц назад

      The platter is held down by gravity. If you’re lucky, you simply have to pry the platter up with your fingers. If the old grease is really solid, spray a squirt of penetrating oil, leave it for 24 hours, and try again. If that fails, pry upward on two points while someone else gently taps on the spindle. Ultimately, it may require heat be applied to the spindle and platter where they meet, not a lot, and not for long. Good luck.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 Месяц назад

      By gravity, I mean it’s a friction fit with no retaining clips.

    • @michaelvice3976
      @michaelvice3976 Месяц назад

      @@fibberscloset498 Thank you for your reply. I have tried everything you suggested, sprayed squirt of oil, heated spindle area with heat gun, pried up with my fingers while swiveling around, tapped on spindle and platter hole area, but it will not come up.. Trying not to bend it. It is really stuck!

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 Месяц назад

      @@michaelvice3976 wow, it’s really stuck! At this point I would begin to wonder if there wasn’t a spring wire retainer of some kind. I don’t have any other ideas for you, other than some wooden wedges driven in around the perimeter and left to sit. See what steady pressure might do. Best of luck on this one.

    • @michaelvice3976
      @michaelvice3976 Месяц назад

      @@fibberscloset498 THAT'S a good idea about the wedges. I will try that. I think there are 2 small holes in the platter in the spindle area that might have something below that releases the platter. Have not checked that out yet. Your videos are always great! and helpful. I may have other questions on this as I go along. Thank you for your replies.

  • @felixcat4346
    @felixcat4346 2 месяца назад

    Here's the deal. 😂

  • @youtuuba
    @youtuuba 2 месяца назад

    I have not viewed "Episode 1", yet can offer a couple thoughts as I watch this one: - There is no such thing as a "Simpson 260 schematic". The 260 has been produced for a LONG time in quite a few versions, or 'Series'. There are significant variations in the circuits of the various series, and Simpson's drafting department was often not clear about which series a particular schematic goes with, and this can be very confusing. - I my own experience restoring various 260's, including the original/earliest version, I found MANY mistakes on the Simpson schematics. I know that within each Series/version Simpson made changes during the production runs, and my guess is that they also had versions of the schematics that would match all the variations, but I have never found a positive way to definitively match a Simpson schematic with a specific example of a 260; Simpson seems to have been less than professional in their documentation, otherwise they would have included serial number ranges or something on each schematic version/revision, or some equivalent scheme. - I have seen Simpson 260 schematics that, for example, identify resistors in the M Ohms as the same value without the 'M', e.g. a 2.4M resistor would be shown as a 2.4 Ohm resistor on the schematic, and clearly that would be a mistake and not due to some incremental variation.

  • @SteveHacker
    @SteveHacker 3 месяца назад

    Why can’t the internal switch be kept? Isn’t it already in series with the outlet?

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 3 месяца назад

      Good point. The switch is already in series with one side of the outlet.

  • @py2jpa307
    @py2jpa307 3 месяца назад

    make a video using nanovna to do this.

  • @zorka4098
    @zorka4098 3 месяца назад

    Thanks for the video as well as one of my favorite radio programs - nice touch. Hope to hear from you soon with another video.

  • @terryblackman6217
    @terryblackman6217 3 месяца назад

    Having watched all episodes of this restoration I thoroughly enjoy every one. Thank you for sharing with us.

  • @Backtothefutureradios
    @Backtothefutureradios 3 месяца назад

    Cleaned and shined up very nice! Thanks for sharing both the video and the radio show! Take Care-Larry

  • @renowden2010
    @renowden2010 3 месяца назад

    I was expecting the red pointer on the back of the hour hand to point to something to make it easier to set rather than having to guess the position behind the black part but I am not sure how that would work.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 3 месяца назад

      Thanks for the question. It made me go back and check that the alarm was working correctly. It turns out that it was 12 hours off. What I found was that when you remount the clock hands, the 12 on the black alarm dial should actually point down to the red arrow on the other end of the hour hand. In other words, the hour and second hand should both point to midnight, but the alarm dial should be set to align its 12 with the red arrow on the hour hand. To set the alarm, you turn the alarm button counter-clockwise until the red arrow on the hour hand points to the time you want to get up on the alarm dial. Hope that's clear, and thanks for checking in!

  • @Backtothefutureradios
    @Backtothefutureradios 4 месяца назад

    Don’t know how I missed this video when it came out! Great content and explanation…..Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Take Care-Larry

  • @larryshaver3568
    @larryshaver3568 4 месяца назад

    sometimes i use fels naptha soap and sos pads

  • @larryshaver3568
    @larryshaver3568 4 месяца назад

    i've some that were loaded with hard grease but i use lighter fluid to dissolve the grease

  • @zorka4098
    @zorka4098 4 месяца назад

    Well done explanation. Length wasn't an issue as I was engaged.

  • @raymondedge8889
    @raymondedge8889 4 месяца назад

    Why is there heat shrink around the resistors?

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 4 месяца назад

      Good question, and one I don't have a good answer for. It was obviously done for a reason, but I can't think of a good one.

  • @trovebyvictoria
    @trovebyvictoria 5 месяцев назад

    i think i need to change the copper reel on mine :/ (or whatever its called)

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 4 месяца назад

      I'm not quite sure what you're referring to.

  • @chass5438
    @chass5438 5 месяцев назад

    5:40: And the speed in my SL-95 fluctuates so much, it's non-playable anyway after I tore it down to a manual play. To me, these aren't worth the bother to fix them.

  • @chass5438
    @chass5438 5 месяцев назад

    5:40: I couldn't get my 95b to function on auto mode, so I just tore it all down and made it a manual....Lol. After a week of cleaning and trying to adjust it, just refused to work. It was either that, or toss it ! I elected to make it non-automatic ! Case closed....

  • @pinballpsycho
    @pinballpsycho 5 месяцев назад

    Well done. I may actually learn a thing or two if I watch enough of your clips. I have a radio that is so badly tuned that the screws were all tuned down to the max (tight) - I could pick up one radio station, sometimes two or three, but all below 700 kc. It's also gone through quite a bit of re-engineering, so it's missing parts, which I have replaced. Something I've been playing with is tuning each of the coils independently. I've tried this idea of tuning them together (pri+sec) and have been able to hit 455 kc and that is what allowed me to go from one to three stations, but I notice that the calculator works with each of the coils independently. So my question becomes, is there any benefit to peaking each coil independently to hit 455kc, or is that a maladjustment? It may be moot because I've tried this and one of the coils never peaks - the signal is an order of magnitude lower on it, so I have to adjust the scope to read it, plus when I try to tune it, it never recedes, it just keeps climbing to maximum until the screw contacts the housing. I'm guessing it's open or has a bad capacitor.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 5 месяцев назад

      Interesting problem you're facing. Generally speaking, each IF can is tuned separately, first the primary and then the secondary, before moving on to the next IF. The schematics for the radio you're working on (you didn't mention what it is) should indicated where to inject the signal and the order in which they are aligned. It sure sounds like you do have a bad IF transformer, though. The capacitor in the IF cans rarely goes off-value, but depending on how it's made, the capacitor can be responsible for a lot of noise due to silver mica disease. I also wonder whether you have an open coil in one side or the other of the IF can that's giving you trouble. Have you taken the time to measure the DC resistance for both the primary and secondary of all the IF cans? A third potential problem can be a broken transformer slug. These are usually made of steel powder or graphite, can can be broken. That would cause the IF can to not tune correctly. Thanks for watching!

  • @mariofilippi3539
    @mariofilippi3539 5 месяцев назад

    Very good explanation on the working parts of the IF coil and how they function. Thanks.

  • @SDsailor7
    @SDsailor7 6 месяцев назад

    So do you need several incandecent light bulb according different wattages that you may have on several stereos or radios? anyone know? Also do you need to cut the tab/bus on the swith if it does not have an outlet attached? Or is it Ok to leave it like it came from the factory? Thank you

  • @billdegener8105
    @billdegener8105 6 месяцев назад

    Thank you sir!

  • @geralderdek282
    @geralderdek282 7 месяцев назад

    Enjoyed your video! I picked up mine for 10 bucks at a flea market. Seller said did not work. Beautiful condition otherwise. Only needed the am converter transistor replaced. A snap to do with those plug in transistors!

  • @Codeeze
    @Codeeze 7 месяцев назад

    I have the same Leader SG in the workshop, unused on a shelf. I think I'll be re-watching and modding mine the same. It might make me use it again! Well done, cracking trio of videos.

  • @terryblackman6217
    @terryblackman6217 7 месяцев назад

    Best series I have seen in a long time. Thank you so much for sharing with us.

  • @johnblystone8781
    @johnblystone8781 7 месяцев назад

    I was really expecting lots of harmonics to be present on the output of your signal generator and that this would be the cause of the drift of the counter but not so. Thanks for the video!!

    • @martinmoore3616
      @martinmoore3616 7 месяцев назад

      Thanks, John. It was cleaner than I expected as well.

  • @ebones6957
    @ebones6957 7 месяцев назад

    It’s not uncommon for these generators to have distorted sinewave output. In fact, the distortion allows the generator to output higher frequencies by creating the harmonics needed. Use of the demodulation function along with X-Y function allows one to look at the detected .modulation waveform. This eliminates the need for a higher bandwidth scope for alignments. The circuit uses a saturable reactor to create the necessary sweep used in fm bandpass alignment. The Heath kit IG-57 Sweep generator uses a similar circuit. The two circuit amphenol connector is for the X&Y outputs to drive an oscilloscope. Although the mating connector is still available, I choose to drill an additional front panel hole and replace the two wire connector and add separate BNCs for the X & Y outputs.

  • @retro_tech
    @retro_tech 7 месяцев назад

    Neat little project. I recently restored a signal generator on my channel which has the same problem: resistors and capacitors which have drifted and no way to calibrate. So it might also benefit from a similar modification. Subscribed to your channel.

  • @terryblackman6217
    @terryblackman6217 7 месяцев назад

    I have the same signal generator and am following your video with great interest. Thank you for sharing.

  • @peteleoni9665
    @peteleoni9665 7 месяцев назад

    You trust the resistors? Or did I miss something? I probably did you are no beginner like me.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 7 месяцев назад

      I measured the value of each resistor, and if it was within 20%, left it in-circuit. I also look for resistors that look scorched or slightly burnt, and replace them, sometimes with a higher wattage version.

  • @peteleoni9665
    @peteleoni9665 7 месяцев назад

    Regarding "safe," Everything in the 50s 60s was a "shock hazard" Our bicycles were "dangerous" , we drove around in cars with holes in the floor, we breathed an exhaust fume or two...we weren't "safe" We won 2 wars. Then we became "safe" the government passed laws that made us "safe" We began to lose the sharpening of risk, we lost a war. We are now "safe" We wore masks. We closed schools. Congratulations, we are very very safe now. Not taking anything away from your video it was great! Just a small rant.

  • @terryblackman6217
    @terryblackman6217 7 месяцев назад

    Looking forward to seeing your next installment with great interest.

  • @harveyellis6758
    @harveyellis6758 7 месяцев назад

    Cool project! Can unused winding of transformer in power supply an option?

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 7 месяцев назад

      Do you mean on the secondary side? Possible, if there were any, but it would require a different solution to generate the required 9VDC. If you mean an unused tap on the primary side, I’m not sure why you would want to do that. If you live in a place that uses 230VAC as mains power, you would approach the solution the same way, but use a different AC-to-DC converter module. Does that answer your question? Thanks for watching.

    • @harveyellis6758
      @harveyellis6758 7 месяцев назад

      The schematic showed an additional winding on the secondary of the transformer. That is why I assumed this as an option.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 7 месяцев назад

      To be honest, I hadn't noticed those windings. However, you certainly could use one of the secondaries. The only consideration might be how much extra load you might be putting on the transformer. The frequency counter I used requires about 120 mA as I recall, so using the secondary would be adding that much load to the transformer, not including whatever circuitry you use to convert the secondary AC to 9VDC. I haven't done any research on the transformer, so additing 120+ mA might not make any difference at all. Using the primary side adds no load to the transformer, but still takes advantage of the switch and fuse. Good question, thanks! @@harveyellis6758

  • @yeyolara4604
    @yeyolara4604 8 месяцев назад

    I would be very gratefull if you could send me the equivalence of the transistors in this radio

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 7 месяцев назад

      The radiomuseum.org seems to provide equivalent transistors on this page: www.radiomuseum.org/r/zenith_trans_oceanic_royal_d7000.html

  • @uhf001
    @uhf001 8 месяцев назад

    very detailed instructions & well documented...thanks!

  • @iwilfix9407
    @iwilfix9407 8 месяцев назад

    My platter will not come off is there a trick to it ? I never saw you remove it in any of your videos.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 8 месяцев назад

      Before anything, make sure there isn’t a circling holding the platter in place. As I recall, it’s a friction fit. You might give the top of the spindle a quick rap with a plastic-faced hammer to loosen the platter. If a single rap doesn’t work, I would put a drop or two of WD40 or penetrating oil where the platter and spindle join, let it soak for an hour or two, then try again. Good luck!

    • @uhf001
      @uhf001 8 месяцев назад

      like fibberscloset said: A drop of penetrating oil...use a nozzle and spray it from the top side but under the platter where it presses onto the spindle. Shims from a door shim-pack wedged in under from opposite sides of the platter will help pry it loose.

    • @iwilfix9407
      @iwilfix9407 8 месяцев назад

      @@uhf001 Had used the penetrating oil, but found it very stubborn. I ended up making a small tool that resembles a ball joint fork. got it under and gave it a tap with a hammer and it popped right off. working on the idler wheel today. thanks for the help

  • @corvairist
    @corvairist 8 месяцев назад

    Pretty sure they have stopped making Johnson’s Paste Wax so treasure your can! Hard to believe given its utility.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 8 месяцев назад

      I have heard that as well. Too “old fashioned” I suspect. Thanks for watching.

  • @lignow9762
    @lignow9762 9 месяцев назад

    Some of these vintage radios are functioning works of art. The workmanship was world leaders back in the day. About a year ago I picked up a black leather box from the dump. I didn`t know what it was until I got home. Now it is a fully functional Zenith Transoceanic H500 made in July1954. Same year I was made. Ha Thanks for your informative videos in learning a new hobby. Great past time in these winter months. Currently fixing a A600 that had been previously worked on by a slopped headed Neanderthal. It`s been interesting.

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 9 месяцев назад

      I couldn’t agree more. Works of great designers and craftsmanship. And thanks for saving that H500.

    • @qwertykeyboard5901
      @qwertykeyboard5901 14 дней назад

      HOLY CRAP, YOU TRASHPICKED A TRANSOCEANIC!?

  • @bones007able
    @bones007able 9 месяцев назад

    Then go out and find and stock obsolete light bulbs in various wattages

  • @tommythomas5299
    @tommythomas5299 9 месяцев назад

    Hey there! Thank you for this series of videos! I have a question. I recently bought a D7000Y locally. It's in immaculate shape except the battery compartment. It is corroded. The springs still remain in the middle and bottom rows, but the spring on the top row is literally gone as in missing, from the corrosion. How can I fix this as I'm wanting to use my TO outside. I also tried to put in a battery at the bottom just to check the dial light and map light. It didn't work. Do I have to have the bottom row full of batteries for the dial light and map light to work or would all batteries have to be in and have the spring missing from the top row fixed? Thank you for an awesome series of videos! Keep up the great work! Tommy

    • @fibberscloset498
      @fibberscloset498 9 месяцев назад

      Hi Tommy. A single battery at the bottom should power the dial and map lights. One thing to do would be to install a battery in that location and see if you're getting 1.5VDC at either light bulb location, relative to chassis ground. Make sure the radio isn't plugged in while you do that. Regarding the top row, I would have to see the damage and give some thought to how it might be fixed. One solution would be to see if anyone out in the world has a donor chassis that still has a sound battery cage. Best of luck with your project!

  • @jviss07
    @jviss07 9 месяцев назад

    No transformers "amplify," they have a turns ration that can result in a higher secondary voltage than primary voltage, but the current is proportionate to that; no amplification.

    • @martinmoore3616
      @martinmoore3616 9 месяцев назад

      You are correct.

    • @Kangsteri
      @Kangsteri 9 месяцев назад

      Current is only heat waste in RF, audio and light applications. So it does amplify it to more usable form. Super joule ringer looper seems to work with beat frequency, so it really does amplify the voltage too.

    • @jviss07
      @jviss07 9 месяцев назад

      @@Kangsteri So, I have a question for you. If a transformer amplifies, why do amplifiers - like stereo amps, guitar amps, etc. - require tubes or transistors, and power? Why can't you just connect your guitar to a transformer on the primary, and a speaker on the secondary, and be done with it? That answer of course, is that transformers transform, and amplifiers amplify. Or, what "amplify" means, in most contexts, is an increase in the of a signal. A transformer increases voltage at the expense of current, or vice versa. There is no It's what's called a

    • @Kangsteri
      @Kangsteri 9 месяцев назад

      @@jviss07 Yes, torque for external movement needs current. Signal transfer in closed systems doesn't.

    • @jviss07
      @jviss07 9 месяцев назад

      @@Kangsteri I have no idea what you're talking about with that last comment. I must say, that after having been granted a degree in Electrical Engineering and spending 40+ years in the industry, with five US patents, I have no idea why I'm having this argument; but you know what they say about arguing with someone on the internet....

  • @jas20per
    @jas20per 10 месяцев назад

    Wintergreen to soften rubber is not new idea, was doing this twenty five years ago. It works much better lasts far longer if you just massage wintergreen into the rubber after softening it first in just more than the hand can stand hot water.

  • @dhelton40
    @dhelton40 10 месяцев назад

    Well, these are functional repairs, however I think a true restoration repair would be different. First, I see no effort to locate the foil end of the capacitors and j hooks are kind of sloppy. How much effort does it take to use a good desoldering tool to open the lugs on the tube sockets. Second, I would have removed the old filter cap and install lug strips to use axial lead capacitors to remain more in keeping with the original build style. Capacitors that belong on a circuit board just look rigged zip tied in there. I also did not see any effort to address the power cord polarity or the death capacitor and/or safety capacitor. If your happy with this, fine, would not be me. Sorry

  • @jimnjele.bean-dayone3505
    @jimnjele.bean-dayone3505 10 месяцев назад

    I would have liked to see it in action. Thanks for showing how to make one

  • @JohnDoe-jn4ex
    @JohnDoe-jn4ex 10 месяцев назад

    Love my 260. Buddy of mine got it at a yard sale and gave it to me.