One of the unsung bennies of your channel is when you go after cross collaboration and do complementary, rather than standalone reviews with other YT influencers in the space. Greatly appreciated.
I've used this light on a feature I was gaffing. It's a great little light and I think eventually apurture will be able to compare to the quality of other traditional fixtures.
This is actually a great video and does a solid job of pointing out the differences between the Aputure 300x and the 300D II. I’ve read a lot of comments here trying to further explain the technical side of things - the test results in general; whether the correct gels are being used; what the Green/Magenta color shift actually means and where it comes from - and I wanted to offer some perspective to anyone overwhelmed or confused. The test in the video should prove just how necessary it is to do your OWN tests before you take your gear out! Regardless of the gels that were used and other factors, the test results in the video are indicative of problems with LEDs and lighting as a whole, and not necessarily specific to the 300D II or even the Aputure company. Color temperature, light loss, color fidelity, luminance, Green/Magenta shift - these are all things that have numerous factors that influence them and are issues at every level of video production. It doesn’t matter if you’re using an Arri Alexa with a K5600 Joker 800, or a Sony A7s with an Aputure 120d - if you want to know what you’re going to get, you have to test it out before! The professional conversation that comes out of this video shouldn’t be why/if/how the test is inaccurate, but rather why it’s important to do the test at all. All that being said buy the 300D II if you want the extra output, and buy the 300X if it’s more important to have CCT control. Cool video, and I hope that helps someone!
I know this is an old video but for anyone wondering 3/4 CTS is better for daylight to tungsten conversion. CTS is less green than CTO and 3/4 gets closer to 3200k than full.
Apples to oranges on that comparison... You'd really need to use a gel that puts it into +/- 100k or closer to get a true comparison. Rosco has a plethora of CTO to make this possible. I'm sure that every bit beyond 3100k was diminishing the light output substantially and likely the CRI as well. Much appreciation to you and Curtis for the attempt at the comparison, but to me that data just doesn't mean much without the kelvin being much more accurately reproduced.
this was sooo brilliant to get those specs about color temp and losing light. You have answered the questions Aputure didn´t give us. Now I know I want to buy the 300 X. Thanks to you both! Great idea to put the heads together to test
Man this is so useful Gerald, I mean the shadow with two different colours can be so easily overlooked, and you'd be wondering and can't point a finger on it had you not made this video, thanks 👍
RoscoSun 85 (#3401) is the conversion gel to get from 55k to 32k, not full CTO. Full CTO gets you to around 27k which is closer to tungsten household bulbs.
I just bought this thing and I'm having buyers remorse. I just watched your other review about the Godox VL series and the cheaper dome and am kicking myself for not having seen it sooner.
Can somebody please help me- so i can’t find a video on this but what would happen if you had a M43 sensor and put extension tubes on a speed booster for use with let’s say a canon lens and you want closer focus would you do M43 extension tube then speed booster then lens or speed booster extension tube then lens? If they cancel eachother out is there a way to do it?
And what if I bought the adapter to flip my camera around and shoot it in reverse? If I did that on m43 would you do speed booster then reverse attachment then lens?
Great video. I always wait to see one of your videos before i decide on gear I need. Been waiting for a good light. This one is the one ive been waiting for. Thanks For sharing
You touched on this but I want to expand a bit. The light transmission of a full CTO will be greater than the CTO gel that will get the 300dII to 3200K. I get that this is the gel you had on hand, but we should make it very clear that the ROSCO 3407's job is to drop the color temperature 2600K from your starting point. So it we have a starting point of ~5200K and want to get to ~3200 than we need a 3/4 CTO (2000K/2600K=.75) approximately. A 3/4 CTO would actually give somewhere around 2900K, a 1/2 CTO around 3500K. But even at 3/4 CTO of 2900K you would already have a 10%-20% increase in light transmission putting the output beyond that of the 300x. The only thing I'm trying to say here is that the case for the "reduced light output" argument is silly and should be excluded. **You're almost always better off opting for the most powerful light you can get because it will give you the most options.**. Having an extra stop of light in the bag is priceless and throwing a gel on something is pretty trivial.
So if he had used the correct gel for the 300D mk II he'd have gotten a very similar output to the 300x at tungsten and a way better one at daylight. I don't really see how they're trying to make a point that the 300X would give you better results and all that by using the wrong gel. Other that that an interesting video.
Honestly that's what I thought. I would be using tungsten a lot less, let alone temperatures inbetween. Why wouldn't I pay 120€ less for the 300d and enjoy almost double the daylight output with option to use a gel for tungsten cases.
Anyone else notice a green cast in the 300x? I was using it next to our 300d at a shoot over the weekend and it was significantly greener when set to the same color temp as the 300d.
Something I found interesting in Curtis Judd's video was how line shadows appeared when using the barn doors, but not when using the spotlight mount. Why would that be?
I did a bit more testing on that and it only happens with the most extreme cut. Opening the flags a touch and the lines disappear. I still don't understand exactly why but I suspect it has to do with the diffusion/mixing filters they use.
@@curtisjudd Even with Fresnels like the 2X Aputure, you see the lines of the Fresnel. With COB lights with reflectors the shadows of objects close to the light cast onto say a wall are still there, and the design of the reflector vs position of the COB in the reflector vary wildly. Hot light Fresnels have a nicer play in that regard, yet as you know the bulbs and reflectors are so different. Side note: filters for color correction were calibrated for standardised known light specifications long before LED would take over. The spectrum of LED even the good ones add layers of complications for making a smooth spectral emission. Maybe Rosco and Lee should work on that.
I enjoy this channel and its content but my biggest question is, why gerald is undone and most important, why crazy?, good video gerald, full of explanation and detailed!
and what about batteries for the 300X (i need bi-color for architecture... ) ? from the aperture web site : Therefore, for best results, we recommend using batteries that are capable of continuously discharging 14-15 Amps, to provide adequate headroom for the power draw. so the D&O/Comer C90 A/S Supports up to a 10 Amp Continuous Draw... so not up to the task... any cheap and good recommendations ?
Based oh this review I went and bought one of these suckers at my local shop Pictureline. It is badass. In the end it solves most problems I have with video lights. I am mostly a photographer so video LEDs have always been weaksauce. Finally a light that has power and is nice color. I really wanted the Godox until I saw this. I made a good choice. But still WTH with no way to hold umbrella. Some of my favorite modifiers in the studio are giant parabolic umbrellas. This thing would rock one. But no way to mount! Was the biggest reason I was excited for godox. I guess in video relm giant parabolics are not cool.
If you were using this unit for outdoor stand-ups (cheap HMI), wouldn't using the 2X fresnel attachment get back some of the output loss of the bi-color unit?
Why everyone just want to buy cheaper clones without thinking that the original product cost a lot of money for R&D ? The clones are cheaper for one reason : they don’t have to invest to R&D, they just copy from the originals. If everyone buy cheaper clone alternatives, eventually the original company will not have enough revenue to reinvest to new product development, and we, the consumers, will not have any new good products to use. Competing is good, copying is bad.
@@nachojr99 It depends: for example I went and bought the Polar Pro VND PM edition because the they're amazing and there is no cheaper alternative that comes close to its quality. But when there a 3-400$ cheaper version of something and the difference in quality is not that significant, then I'll take the cheaper one.
I have one quick question. So in the graphic at 02:50 we see that the 300x at 5500K only has an output of 25.800lx. In comparison the 300D has 44.300lx output. Does that mean that the 300x has significantly less power on 5500K than the 300D?
the Rosco #3411 Filter - RoscoSun 3/4 CTO is 5500-3200 with a 0.8 stop loss, the one used was more of a shift from 5500-2900k and 1.1 stop loss the stronger is used more often for HMI that tend to run closer to 6000k as a base
Wow, what was happening with your microphone towards the end there? You were getting a slight ringing distortion. Sounded like your internal battery (if it had one) in the mic was dying.
Gerald... I have to start by saying I did find your video entertaining but I still took your suggestion and watched it at 75%. Not only as 75% but at 25% and at 1.5x just for kicks. It was so funny to watch it both slower and faster. You seemed stoned slowed down to 75% and at 1.5x I could get way more info from you way faster if I didn't like the slightly relaxed tone you have in your videos normally. It makes me wonder if the RUclips Algorithm would still give you the credit for the full 7 minutes of watch time if I watched it all the way through at 1.5x? "I am Gerald Undone, and I am entertaining at any speed."
Hey Gerald, i never bought into lights, but i just got paid for my first job and can now invest further into my business, looking into getting my first light. Is this a good option or should i go for like 3 smaller lights like godox sl60
I don’t think losing half of the output is worth it for most use case scenarios. One advanced scenario would be for lighting changes. If aputure could link it to a smartphone or color temp meter it would be cool for monitoring and maintaining a certain temp like long format sunset videos. As the sun gets warmer the 300x gets cooler to maintain the same temp on subject
Do you know how these Aputure lights compare in brightness to Par 64 can lights? I'm wondering how these new LED lights would look next to old-fashioned Par cans in a school or church. Thanks! And great video as always!
Hey Gerald! I know this has nothing to do with the 300x...I was wondering if you could recommend a camera and lens for filming art demos for teachers? I'm teaching remotely and having a hard time using my iPhone alone. If you get to this, thanks, if not , I totally understand! PS I adore your interview/studio tour vids-even the virtual ones! PSS Your theme song rocks!
Great video as always!!! I was eagerly waiting for this light to be released and despite the much better disposal of LED diodes, I suspect the shadows on 1:38 are still much less uniform than they would be on the 120 or 300d. Am I right? Thanks!!
Curtis' test is pointless. It appears he used a Full CTO, which is not what you use traditionally for daylight to tungsten conversion. You'd need a 1/2 CTO, which would also impact exposure twice as less. The CRI value is also a question mark. Gels have a lifespan within which they preserve their intended density, hue and tint. The shift in tint and color might be due to the wear and tear of the gel and to its age.
Also, this are two substantially different lights. With a 300d mk II you can (barely) push windows, get some volumetric shafts, fight daylight with light diffusion. The 300x is essentially a flexible interior keylight/backlight, which offers the convenience of adjusting CT in between takes. The 2 are not cometitors, they serve very different tasks..
I wish i had a magic wallet to just buy all new products that comes out of the market lol. that light looks sick! but i just bought the godox-sl60w because thats the only one that i can afford right now.
5500k > 3200k calls for 3/4 CTO, not full. I don't know where this misconception started but I see it everywhere. Also color accuracy is going to drop off drastically the older the gel gets. Do the test again with a brand new 3/4 CTO and you should lose less than 2/3 stop and have better color accuracy.
a full cto is made to drop 5600k to 3000k roughly. the aputure starts at 5200k so it ends up too orange at 2600ish. So actually to drop a aputure to tungsten you need a 3/4 cto. I am willing to bet it ends up slightly more powerful than a 300x as you go 3/4 stop loss vs 1 stop loss.
Gerald, what you referred to as a "chip" is not really a chip (chips are small...). The device is actually called a COB array LED. The disc-shaped thing is called a Light Emitting Surface, or LES. Search for: luminus.com/products/cobarrays/standard-gen4
One of the unsung bennies of your channel is when you go after cross collaboration and do complementary, rather than standalone reviews with other YT influencers in the space. Greatly appreciated.
Whoa! Two of my favorite RUclips dudes in one video!
"I'm Gerald undone, and purple is the color of royalty."
Ok watched till the end. Short and sweet. All questions answered and didn’t feel my time was wasted.
Behold the master.
I really feel like the last 6 months you’ve really found your identity as a creator. I’ve been loving your content!!
Maybe I wasn’t paying close enough attention before tho...
this colab with curtis was brilliant. Saw curtis' presentation as well. Excellent work, Gents.
I've used this light on a feature I was gaffing. It's a great little light and I think eventually apurture will be able to compare to the quality of other traditional fixtures.
This is actually a great video and does a solid job of pointing out the differences between the Aputure 300x and the 300D II. I’ve read a lot of comments here trying to further explain the technical side of things - the test results in general; whether the correct gels are being used; what the Green/Magenta color shift actually means and where it comes from - and I wanted to offer some perspective to anyone overwhelmed or confused.
The test in the video should prove just how necessary it is to do your OWN tests before you take your gear out! Regardless of the gels that were used and other factors, the test results in the video are indicative of problems with LEDs and lighting as a whole, and not necessarily specific to the 300D II or even the Aputure company.
Color temperature, light loss, color fidelity, luminance, Green/Magenta shift - these are all things that have numerous factors that influence them and are issues at every level of video production. It doesn’t matter if you’re using an Arri Alexa with a K5600 Joker 800, or a Sony A7s with an Aputure 120d - if you want to know what you’re going to get, you have to test it out before!
The professional conversation that comes out of this video shouldn’t be why/if/how the test is inaccurate, but rather why it’s important to do the test at all. All that being said buy the 300D II if you want the extra output, and buy the 300X if it’s more important to have CCT control.
Cool video, and I hope that helps someone!
Holy sheesh Gerald, you’ve outdone yourself yet again. I’m very impressed with your take and have learned a lot, again.
I know this is an old video but for anyone wondering 3/4 CTS is better for daylight to tungsten conversion. CTS is less green than CTO and 3/4 gets closer to 3200k than full.
Apples to oranges on that comparison... You'd really need to use a gel that puts it into +/- 100k or closer to get a true comparison. Rosco has a plethora of CTO to make this possible. I'm sure that every bit beyond 3100k was diminishing the light output substantially and likely the CRI as well. Much appreciation to you and Curtis for the attempt at the comparison, but to me that data just doesn't mean much without the kelvin being much more accurately reproduced.
this was sooo brilliant to get those specs about color temp and losing light. You have answered the questions Aputure didn´t give us. Now I know I want to buy the 300 X. Thanks to you both! Great idea to put the heads together to test
Finally a review thats straight to the point without stupid comedy sketches.
Man this is so useful Gerald, I mean the shadow with two different colours can be so easily overlooked, and you'd be wondering and can't point a finger on it had you not made this video, thanks 👍
RoscoSun 85 (#3401) is the conversion gel to get from 55k to 32k, not full CTO. Full CTO gets you to around 27k which is closer to tungsten household bulbs.
Interesting information. Thanks for this video. It helped me choose to save up for the 300X and not settle for the cheaper bi-color ones.
I just bought this thing and I'm having buyers remorse. I just watched your other review about the Godox VL series and the cheaper dome and am kicking myself for not having seen it sooner.
Godox has some common issues with lights switching off, the fan not working and is in general unreliable.
Way to go! You are the RUclips reviewer's RUclips reviewer!
Can somebody please help me- so i can’t find a video on this but what would happen if you had a M43 sensor and put extension tubes on a speed booster for use with let’s say a canon lens and you want closer focus would you do M43 extension tube then speed booster then lens or speed booster extension tube then lens? If they cancel eachother out is there a way to do it?
And what if I bought the adapter to flip my camera around and shoot it in reverse? If I did that on m43 would you do speed booster then reverse attachment then lens?
My two favourite channels collaborating!
👍
Great video. I always wait to see one of your videos before i decide on gear I need. Been waiting for a good light. This one is the one ive been waiting for. Thanks For sharing
You touched on this but I want to expand a bit. The light transmission of a full CTO will be greater than the CTO gel that will get the 300dII to 3200K. I get that this is the gel you had on hand, but we should make it very clear that the ROSCO 3407's job is to drop the color temperature 2600K from your starting point. So it we have a starting point of ~5200K and want to get to ~3200 than we need a 3/4 CTO (2000K/2600K=.75) approximately. A 3/4 CTO would actually give somewhere around 2900K, a 1/2 CTO around 3500K. But even at 3/4 CTO of 2900K you would already have a 10%-20% increase in light transmission putting the output beyond that of the 300x. The only thing I'm trying to say here is that the case for the "reduced light output" argument is silly and should be excluded. **You're almost always better off opting for the most powerful light you can get because it will give you the most options.**. Having an extra stop of light in the bag is priceless and throwing a gel on something is pretty trivial.
i want this light so bad. My next lighting purchase almost guaranteed. edit: also, nice to see Curtis Judd, love his videos.
I had never even heard of the 300x. If someone typically works in a studio with 120d mkII’s, would you recommend the 300d or the 300x?
I would base it entirely on if you need max daylight output vs bi-color. If you gel a lot, get the 300x.
So if he had used the correct gel for the 300D mk II he'd have gotten a very similar output to the 300x at tungsten and a way better one at daylight. I don't really see how they're trying to make a point that the 300X would give you better results and all that by using the wrong gel. Other that that an interesting video.
Honestly that's what I thought. I would be using tungsten a lot less, let alone temperatures inbetween. Why wouldn't I pay 120€ less for the 300d and enjoy almost double the daylight output with option to use a gel for tungsten cases.
Anyone else notice a green cast in the 300x? I was using it next to our 300d at a shoot over the weekend and it was significantly greener when set to the same color temp as the 300d.
Yes. Thought it was just our unit.
Very helpful video. Great break down! Awesome job.
Love the shirt looks like StellarPro logo
I was waiting for your video on this to come out... Thanks!
NGL, when Curtis/Gerald pull up the charts, I get lost 😭
Hey Mr. Gerald, if you could only purchase 2 aputure lights, would the aputure 300x be one of them? Would it be the amaran 200x?
Great content everytime Gerald 👍
Something I found interesting in Curtis Judd's video was how line shadows appeared when using the barn doors, but not when using the spotlight mount. Why would that be?
I did a bit more testing on that and it only happens with the most extreme cut. Opening the flags a touch and the lines disappear. I still don't understand exactly why but I suspect it has to do with the diffusion/mixing filters they use.
Curtis Judd oh interesting! Thanks for figuring that out.
@@curtisjudd Even with Fresnels like the 2X Aputure, you see the lines of the Fresnel. With COB lights with reflectors the shadows of objects close to the light cast onto say a wall are still there, and the design of the reflector vs position of the COB in the reflector vary wildly. Hot light Fresnels have a nicer play in that regard, yet as you know the bulbs and reflectors are so different. Side note: filters for color correction were calibrated for standardised known light specifications long before LED would take over. The spectrum of LED even the good ones add layers of complications for making a smooth spectral emission. Maybe Rosco and Lee should work on that.
“Im Gerald undone” then directly stare into the camera and it slowly zooms in “and, I... am.... iron man”
[jump cuts right as he snaps his finger]
You forgot to mention that the 300x is heavier than the 300D MK2.
thanks for the thorough reviews man
WHOO!
Well this is delightful 💡
I enjoy this channel and its content but my biggest question is, why gerald is undone and most important, why crazy?, good video gerald, full of explanation and detailed!
Great review! Question: Can only one battery be used as in the 300 dII model?
As EXTREME, Just use the Rosco 3411=5500k to 3200k, Also the 3407 is almost 1/2 stop denser, CONFUSING INFORMATION IN EXCHANGE FOR A COB
Thanks for the input Felipe.
Would be great to know results with the 3411 to compare with the 3407.
and what about batteries for the 300X (i need bi-color for architecture... ) ?
from the aperture web site : Therefore, for best results, we recommend using batteries that are capable of continuously discharging 14-15 Amps, to provide adequate headroom for the power draw.
so the D&O/Comer C90 A/S Supports up to a 10 Amp Continuous Draw... so not up to the task...
any cheap and good recommendations ?
That rosco gel is for changing a 5500k light to a 2900k one. Just thought that should be noted.
Based oh this review I went and bought one of these suckers at my local shop Pictureline. It is badass. In the end it solves most problems I have with video lights. I am mostly a photographer so video LEDs have always been weaksauce. Finally a light that has power and is nice color. I really wanted the Godox until I saw this. I made a good choice. But still WTH with no way to hold umbrella. Some of my favorite modifiers in the studio are giant parabolic umbrellas. This thing would rock one. But no way to mount! Was the biggest reason I was excited for godox. I guess in video relm giant parabolics are not cool.
Thanks man …i want to ask u is that light 30 x good for outdoor shoot .. or 300dm2 is good for outdoor shoot
Great, Gerald!
So ignoring the X factor, we can apply the comparison that you did between 300d II and Vl300 to this new COB?
Thanks!
If you were using this unit for outdoor stand-ups (cheap HMI), wouldn't using the 2X fresnel attachment get back some of the output loss of the bi-color unit?
Do you think, with the newest VL releases from GODOX, that they could come out with something that can match this at a cheaper price?
Yeah doesn't really make sense to buy Aputure at the moment
Why everyone just want to buy cheaper clones without thinking that the original product cost a lot of money for R&D ? The clones are cheaper for one reason : they don’t have to invest to R&D, they just copy from the originals. If everyone buy cheaper clone alternatives, eventually the original company will not have enough revenue to reinvest to new product development, and we, the consumers, will not have any new good products to use. Competing is good, copying is bad.
@@locxucreator The Chinese copy everything but the west comes up with the designs.
Does the Godox VL series come in tungsten as well as daylight? If so, I could buy one of each :)
@@nachojr99 It depends: for example I went and bought the Polar Pro VND PM edition because the they're amazing and there is no cheaper alternative that comes close to its quality. But when there a 3-400$ cheaper version of something and the difference in quality is not that significant, then I'll take the cheaper one.
love the intro as usual!
i am interested in aputure 600D that they teased about , when do you think its gonna come?
Hey mate. Good video. Would be so interesting to have you compare it to the Nanlite Froza 300B!
Curious how the LS 60x will compare. How much better, if at all will it be compared to this one
I have one quick question. So in the graphic at 02:50 we see that the 300x at 5500K only has an output of 25.800lx. In comparison the 300D has 44.300lx output.
Does that mean that the 300x has significantly less power on 5500K than the 300D?
I have some 300d MKII's. but I'm now waiting for the wide-colour gamut Aputures...
the Rosco #3411 Filter - RoscoSun 3/4 CTO is 5500-3200 with a 0.8 stop loss, the one used was more of a shift from 5500-2900k and 1.1 stop loss the stronger is used more often for HMI that tend to run closer to 6000k as a base
Thanks Stephen - fair point and much appreciated.
thanks for making this
I got the 300X an love it, now saving for the even more expensive P300c lights (need 2) $$$
This channel will have 10M subs in a few years.. easy.. Great content!
what i don't get completely is the output ... sooo in the middle it shoudl have 300watts output right? and on the yellow an blue ned 150 right?
I don’t know what it is, but you’re delivery at the end their with “Alight - I’m done,” made the video... Gold 👌
Hey Gerald or other people who may know... Do the Aputure lights charge V-Mount batteries or do I need a dedicated charger?
So it is better than 300d mk2, because i have to return 300d mk2, because of flicker issues with shutter around 1000 maybe less.
Wow, what was happening with your microphone towards the end there? You were getting a slight ringing distortion. Sounded like your internal battery (if it had one) in the mic was dying.
Interesting, it may not be your video. I just heard it in another video. Hopefully, it is just me.
"I'm Gerald Undone, and it's time to get done again"
Hi Gerald, will you be reviewing the Viltrox Ninja 400? Thanks
What v mount batteries would be good?
Gerald... I have to start by saying I did find your video entertaining but I still took your suggestion and watched it at 75%. Not only as 75% but at 25% and at 1.5x just for kicks. It was so funny to watch it both slower and faster. You seemed stoned slowed down to 75% and at 1.5x I could get way more info from you way faster if I didn't like the slightly relaxed tone you have in your videos normally. It makes me wonder if the RUclips Algorithm would still give you the credit for the full 7 minutes of watch time if I watched it all the way through at 1.5x?
"I am Gerald Undone, and I am entertaining at any speed."
Thank you for top-notch reviews we can trust. And Dam you are prolific
Hey Gerald, i never bought into lights, but i just got paid for my first job and can now invest further into my business, looking into getting my first light. Is this a good option or should i go for like 3 smaller lights like godox sl60
Thanks for making this, Gerald! 😄 I may actually sell my tungsten kit to get a couple of these!
I don’t think losing half of the output is worth it for most use case scenarios. One advanced scenario would be for lighting changes. If aputure could link it to a smartphone or color temp meter it would be cool for monitoring and maintaining a certain temp like long format sunset videos. As the sun gets warmer the 300x gets cooler to maintain the same temp on subject
Do you know how these Aputure lights compare in brightness to Par 64 can lights? I'm wondering how these new LED lights would look next to old-fashioned Par cans in a school or church. Thanks! And great video as always!
will you make a short video on the ninja 400? :) I would like to buy it but I would like to have some opinions first :(
Hey Gerald! I know this has nothing to do with the 300x...I was wondering if you could recommend a camera and lens for filming art demos for teachers? I'm teaching remotely and having a hard time using my iPhone alone. If you get to this, thanks, if not , I totally understand! PS I adore your interview/studio tour vids-even the virtual ones! PSS Your theme song rocks!
PSSS> I'd like 4K mirrorless, but on a teacher's budget.
"I'm Gerald Undone, and I survived a cage mage against the Macho Man Randy Savage."
Great video as always!!! I was eagerly waiting for this light to be released and despite the much better disposal of LED diodes, I suspect the shadows on 1:38 are still much less uniform than they would be on the 120 or 300d. Am I right? Thanks!!
Playback speed at 75% is the game changer for this video.
Start with "I'm Gerald Undone and life is time-coded"
Curtis' test is pointless. It appears he used a Full CTO, which is not what you use traditionally for daylight to tungsten conversion. You'd need a 1/2 CTO, which would also impact exposure twice as less. The CRI value is also a question mark. Gels have a lifespan within which they preserve their intended density, hue and tint. The shift in tint and color might be due to the wear and tear of the gel and to its age.
Also, this are two substantially different lights. With a 300d mk II you can (barely) push windows, get some volumetric shafts, fight daylight with light diffusion. The 300x is essentially a flexible interior keylight/backlight, which offers the convenience of adjusting CT in between takes. The 2 are not cometitors, they serve very different tasks..
I once was blind but now I see!
Hi Gerald’s little friend!
I wish i had a magic wallet to just buy all new products that comes out of the market lol. that light looks sick! but i just bought the godox-sl60w because thats the only one that i can afford right now.
5500k > 3200k calls for 3/4 CTO, not full. I don't know where this misconception started but I see it everywhere. Also color accuracy is going to drop off drastically the older the gel gets. Do the test again with a brand new 3/4 CTO and you should lose less than 2/3 stop and have better color accuracy.
David Acampora agreed!
a full cto is made to drop 5600k to 3000k roughly. the aputure starts at 5200k so it ends up too orange at 2600ish. So actually to drop a aputure to tungsten you need a 3/4 cto. I am willing to bet it ends up slightly more powerful than a 300x as you go 3/4 stop loss vs 1 stop loss.
I would agree, but probably a minor amount--10% ish would be my guess.
I found it helpful.
i am waiting for the 300X killer for under $200
Gerald and Curtis in the same video. That's a combined IQ of over 300 I'd say!
Hahaha!
Gerald, what you referred to as a "chip" is not really a chip (chips are small...). The device is actually called a COB array LED. The disc-shaped thing is called a Light Emitting Surface, or LES. Search for: luminus.com/products/cobarrays/standard-gen4
RIP youtube compression @ background
"I'm Gerald Undone, YEET!"
Amazing
hi Gerald like to start with: "I'm Gerald undone, likes comes first, viewes comes last."
"I'm Gerald Undone, and for the last time, no, I'm not from Rivia."
Yesss!!
When I get to 3k subs I’ll buy one! 😁💪
clever light
Noyce! As always!
The X is $100 more. :)
Let get panda undone.
Cool
Figure I'd try my luck.
"Hi, I'm Gerald Undone. Done, done done... I'm cray. zay."