Solenoid Kit Install ALL With Wire Harness TCC & OD Solenoids - 42RE / 44RE / 46RE / 47RE / 48RE
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- Basic Dis-Assembly Automatic Transmission Valve Body
Solenoid Removal
This Covers All the Below Dodge & Jeep Automatic Transmissions:
A500 , 42RE , 44RE
A518 , 46RE
A618 , 47RE
48RE
CascadeTransmissionParts.Com
I left my Valve Body in the case, unbolted the 3-4 accumulator piston housing from the side of the Valve Body so I could access the harness retaining bolt from atop the Accumulator Piston Housing. Saved me the hassle of contaminating the VB, buying new gaskets and got me out of the dirt quicker... great products and great customer service.
so you were able to replace the tcc solenoid harness and you didn’t have to remove the valve body at all?
Something important to note, make sure that all four wheels of your vehicle are off the ground before removing or installing the park rod! If there is any tension on the driveline, the parking pawl will be bound up and not allow the park rod to recede all the way in to reinstall the valve body. I found this out the hard way when I broke the electrical harness mounting bracket on top of the valve body by attempting to force the valve body in place when the park rod wasn't fully seated.
Ty for your insight
does the transmission need to be in neutral or just all 4 wheels off the ground?
@willparfet8912 just from a quick internet search it doesn't seem to be absolutely required, but it sure would make things easier so you can freely rotate the drive shaft to get things aligned.
@@bretth1714 thanks i’ll have to do some reading on the park rod so I don’t mess this up.
I purchased Cascade Pressure Solenoid Service Kit (224432BAK). Watched your videos, and was easily able to put my sons truck back on the road. A 97 ram sport 4x4, I changed the spring, and the two modules, filter and fluid. And the truck shifts perfectly. What a fantastic fix for under $200 bucks!
Pretty good video. Helped with installing the kit. Just some things I ran into that weren't shown in video: The TCC solenoid connector is behind shift linkage- remove it as it is tough to lower the valve body until the connector pops off. When you lower the valve body put your hand under the governor solenoid as the accumulator piston and 2 springs will fall out (if they do, then the long spring goes into case first then piston, then fat spring- It took a bit to google how that went back together). The TCC harness connectors for the governor were a little tight when connecting them and the solenoid (small 2 prong) connector was upside down from the original. After that my pan gasket was a nightmare. I used 2 gaskets, Right Stuff twice, and filled it 3 times with it dripping out before I had to tow it to a shop for them to do without any trouble. Just my bad luck I guess. My tranny shifts better and it cured a P1764 code( governor pressure sensor voltage low) and sluggish when you start driving. Haven't seen if it shudders on luck-up, but I bet it won't. Overall though, Its a good kit and good help to put it together and make it work right. Thanks.
nick paci ik
I would like to say thank you. I been working on my 02 dakato. I had installed a 5.9 l. An I been working on my transmission.your video really helped a lot..ty
Absolutely AWESOME video series. Got the full service kit and did it myself. I know just enough to be dangerous, but this series made it easy (once I got the throttle and shift connecters off). Saved hundreds of dollars.
By far the best and most complete kit for the Chrysler A500 based transmission. Upgraded heavier duty solenoids, conversion from 3 wire harness to a 4 wire harness W/O having to mess with the TCC/PCM, new 3-4 accumulator piston spring, filter and duraprene gasket. West Coast company shipped my kit to Michigan in 3 days... WOW.
Awesome rebuild kit, just make sure all solenoids are in place and all connectors are CLEAN! Thanks again!
This same thing happened to me, except my 7000lb Dodge Cummins did not stop and took me with it. An emergency room visit and two month of therapy later, I'm here to say, "Check your chock blocks". Put the vehicle in neutral first, then you know the chocks will hold. Glad to hear you're safe.
Yes. Make sure you're vehicle is secure. My chock blocks weren't secure when I removed the park sprawl. I'll just say that was the most expensive error I've ever made, and I'm happy to still be on this Earth.
I started doing that today thank you for all the information and I wanted to replace the harness but I couldn’t figure it out but with you’re video now I’m more confident that I can do it no metal shavings were found on the pan but my transmission seems to not be working properly I’m thinking about buying the kit y’all from y’all I see y’all have one with all the sensors and harness
Any update boss
I got the $200 kit for my 2000 3.9 Dakota Sport. I waited for the weather to get better and I waited and waited... Finally got on it on May 8, 2021. They sent me the wrong two gaskets so I emailed over a month ago to get the right one. I have not heard from them so I got one from O'Reilly's. I have been looking at videos for months on the 42RE, even the Cascade ones skip valuable information, like how do you get the throttle linkage off and the real info about the number of turns for the bands to be turned, I found three different ones. And as they stuck the park rod back into the trans with the valve body, it went to the logo? I did not bother trying to get a hold of them because I do not have weeks to get this done. As I took the valve body out, two springs and a plunger fell out, boy what a surprise that was. No one on any video said a word about how to get those back in. On the bench video you can see the springs sitting in the hole as he takes off the valve body? Say some thing about that next time? Not very happy with this Cascade Transmission place. My first email to them took several weeks just make sure I have a 2000 and not a 1999. Then I found out there is only one guy on the emails? Really? I called my brother in Arizona and he gave me the advise I needed. Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow after three days of working on it, it is supposed to rain.... Hire some more people, there are plenty out of work.
Excellent video, and right on time as I’m about to do this very job myself.
Hello.Thanks for the video. I have a 95 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4. While idling in a drive through the trans lunges forward. How can this issue be diagnosed? It does change and go smoothly after it gets going. Thanks, David.
got this done today. drove around about 2 hours, everything seems ok. OD and lockup both work as they should.
i was fortunate enough to free up the existing wiring without breaking anything.
one thing i did is once i unbolted the govenor and pressure trandsucer component was to tack it up with a bolt, just a few threads son that it wouldn't be dangling since i didn't unhook the wires from it.
i only dropped it so that i could access the 3 torx screws that hold on the OD solenoid. cont'd
no way you can get it backwards, the center screw is slightly off-center. the only wiring issue on the OD sol. was to snip the 2 zipties(careful here) and unhook the main module in the center which has a pretty small catch clip.
bolt the new one on, hook it up, put the master sol? back on, filter, pan, fluid,... Thanks again for posting this video--saved me a bunch of hassle!!
yes , i can't call it a horror story but just had one yesterday
customer attempted splicing them in , and had to purchase another harness
* it isn't quite as straight forward as it should be (keep in mind wires are in fluid)
please see our other video to drop the 3-4 accum housing down
they may seem a bit overwhelming , but we will help anyway we can.
This is a great video. Made the parts change out so much easier. The only way it could have been easier is if they came out and did it for me
yes all of the electrical can be replaced with the transmission in the truck
also the valve body does not have to be removed
the repair does require removal of the transmission pan , and filter as shown
well keep in mind lock-up has aspects of control from three areas:
Tcc Solenoid , and/or harness
Valve Body
Torque Converter itself
Torque's are common to also have issue on these models.
it is where lock-up is actually implemented.
If the problem is electrical or valve body related our rebuild valve body will cure it , and transmission removal is not required for the install.
It could be viewed as one fairly cost effective way to troubleshoot the unit without having to pull the transmission.
hi, excuse me to disturb you, could you tell me the sizes ( threads) of the neutral switch for the 47 re because mine in the tranny are bad, and I would like to install adapter inside the switch hole and put the switch without changing the case, I know it s possible but there is no web site or manual book which speak about this>
thank you very in advance for your great help>
it s a 47 re from 1999 , with 3 wire.
thank you
on average this repair takes about 1.5 hours , it's always a good idea to also do a band adjustment during this repair that adds about 10-15 minutes
Gonna do this tomorrow on my 00 Durango. Video is great help but my overdrive "relay" is going out too or not connecting properly. AutoZone said it was just a 2 prong device and I should try to reseat it. I'm not sure exactly where it is tho, any tips?
fantastic videos. Will definitly support your store
So if I'm replacing the overdrive and lock up solenoid harness do I need to pull the valve body or can I just remove the 3-4 accumulator housing to pull that harness down?
Your kits are awesome by the way, and vert well priced.
That's what i wanna know also
i also would like to know this, i guess I'm about to find out this afternoon...
this video from CascadeTransParts says its doable ruclips.net/video/D-ctMbta0-I/видео.html
for anyone else wondering, the answer is YES, it can be replaced *without* removing the valve body. last night i used this video combined with the other cascade trans video that i linked to replace all of the solenoids :)
unfortunately, it did not fix my problem, my torque converter must be starting to slip :(
Hi sir, I followed this procedure exactly as described. I ran into a problem, the long rod that sits on top of the valve body will not release from the transmission cavity going to the rear of the trans. I've wiggled it around but it just wont come out. I saw in your video that is just slid out very easily when you moved the valve body up and to the front. I've watched the video many times over, did I miss something? Thanks for your great informational videos.
This is the same issue I'm having as well. I thinking if the transmission is in the vehicle and park is engaged the tension won't let it come out. I removed the e-clip to get the valve body out, still trying to figure out how to get it back together?
@@stevenwilliams1805 I found there is two way to resolve this. You can jack up the rear of the vehicle so the wheels are off the ground and turn the driveshaft slightly until you're able to release the arm. The way I did it was by removing the bolts that attache the driveshaft to the rear end assembly, I then turned the driveshaft slightly until I was able to disengage the arm. Hope this helps...
@@rigodiaz01 that's exactly what I ended up doing, jacking up the rear.
Also, I never got the park rod out. I pulled and pulled. I just pulled it out as far as I could and spun it and did it the hard way, with valve body halfway in transmission. Other videos say remove the E-clip that holds the rod to valve body.
That is the best way i found to do it, was take 0ff the little c clip on the park leaver, even on the older 727 trans.
Just ordered the solenoid kit, hope it solves my issues. If it delivers next week.
Excellent Video. Thoughtful Host Too. Keep doing what your're doing
Hello ,
If you plate has blown off , we now stock remanufactured valve bodies for these.
We can also go through yours , and recondition it if needed.
We don't have a video published yet , but we have footage that should be uploaded in this week that should be helpful.
@929rrdan Hello - the park rod will only go back into the overdrive so far ; on the detent arm you want to keep it in the same position it was when it came out. If installing a master solenoid service kit you can also install harness without removing the valve body , we are working on a supplemental video for this (would save 30 minutes off the repair)
Do i have to remove the valve body to change to overdrive lockup sensor?
@@Soaringeagles1776 see our other videos / most find it easiest to pull the VB otherwise with a couple spare hands you can drop the 3-4 housing
1995 was a split year , and it could be a "RH" or "RE" - Just so it is an "RE" model i know our valve body fits all models up to 1999. These have been available to our industry for almost 10 years now.
Does the pressure sensor have the trans temp sender in it and we is the od selonoid located bud awesome job
@Skippy585 some of the performance companies offer ratio conversions , but not anything we are familiar with - check out Transmission Specialties in PA
Great video. Can you distinguish a bit more clearly which solenoid is which as you remove or replace? Thx👍
Great video ! Thanks for your time!
Thanks for the kind words !
Can you tell me what a fair price is to replace these parts in the vehicle? 2000 Durango R/T? I had these parts replaced and it doesn't seem to fix my problem Any other suggestions? 2-3 shift gets worse then everything goes to hell . Thanks Much!!
Very helpful, my 2002 Dodge Dorango wants to take off in 2nd gear, I replaced the pressure sensor and and cylinoid and still have the same problem. Need help, What's wrong?
Where was the pigtail of the solenoid plugged in at ? Do you have to pull the valve body to get to it ? The answer will determine weather I tackle the replacement or send my truck out to be fixed ? If I fix it how long do it take to get your parts to me in Wheeling WV ?
Greetings! I was replacing the solenoids and the piston spring today. Everything was going well (thanks to your vids), until I started to pull the valve body. As soon as I pulled the valve body the wheel chocks started sliding and the car rolled about 3 feet back. Yes with me under it! I continued with the repairs. Everything felt ok and it went back together smoothly. Unfortunately It acts like it's not in park and wont start. Is it time to tow it to a transmission shop or is this an easy fix?
glad all worked out , Thanks for the kind words !
Hi I'm trying to take out the throat body from the ground it's been hard for me to get it out.
I have a 1999 dodge 1500 5.9 engine. I have been trying to find an answer on a issue we are having with the transmission. Between the 2nd and 3rd gear it will down shift momentary and then shift into 3rd with no issues. This issue is driving me nuts, do you have a possible answer to our issue. It just causes the rpms to rev and then shifts. If you can point us into the right direction I would greately appreciate it.
Hello - we stock the correct valve body for it ; on our site see our part # 22740-6
i'm not sure what the exact issue is they are having with the unit. Sounds a bit like a possible incompetent builder. If the issues have occurred since the rebuild i would think they would be somewhat on the hook.
Hey guy,
Great vid. I'm very good with engines, but I have never tackled a transmission aside from a simple clutch job. I have a 46RE on my 1500 and looks like the shift shaft seal is totally gone. It needs a new one for sure. I like your vid b/c its giving me confidence to pull the VB so I can tap that seal out from the underside. Do you know first if I can do that with it in the truck? Do you have any tips before I start my venture? Thanks so much in advance!
I've got this job ahead of me. Any horror stories from not dropping the valve body and using the existing wiring. Just swapping out the solenoid itself and connecting the old connectors to it?
Thanks for posting this.
Same here Griffon. Doing this on the car is way harder. Driveshaft has to come off to remove throttle & shift linkage, and not easy then either. The springs and cup are the accumulator piston and springs. I have a PDF version of the manual which shows the assembly for these. Parking rod was a bitch - I never got it removed from the 'sprawl prag' or whatever way deep in the O/D unit. I just spun the valve body around to get to the harness screw.
if the check engine light is not on , more than likely a mechanical issue
have you done a band adjustment ?
please feel free to email me further through our website
awesome video very educational. 2 thumbs up
Hello- typically if the park rod is sticking the vehicle may be on a slight incline ; try to get to flat ground. If you have to work a slight there may be a load (resistance) to the parking pawl , or rod
Sorry we don't have staffed phone lines , but welcome questions directly through our website
if you’re on a slight incline would putting the car on jackstands and the transmission in neutral fix this problem?
One more question I see that you're removing the valve body because you were going to do a rebuild if I was just going to change out the master so annoyed but I have to also remove the whole valve body or can I get by with just removing it with the valve body still in place
I have a 46RE. The connector at 5:43 is broken, and fluid is seeping out. Does the whole solenoid assembly need to be replaced to replace this case connector?
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 1/2 ton 2WD 5.2L V8
I'm curious if you may have an answer to my problem. I had my truck's transmission completely rebuilt and a high performance shift kit added to help get the truck up to speed while getting on the interstate because I pull an enclosed trailor. Ever since I got it back from the shop the truck seems to kick me out of over drive while on the interstate or driving in the higher gear. The truck shifts just fine but will not allow me to stay in overdrive. I'm curious if replacing the Governor control solenoid and Transducer or Master Solenoid overdrive and lock up could fix this problem? I quit driving the truck due to this problem but I would love to fix the issue and get it back on the road. I appreciate any help and if you have any ideas or a quick fix I would be forever thankful I am open to any suggestions please get back to me if you can.
well the late 47RE valve bodies work fine , but only from 02/03 models which contain the push in mlps design. Most of them are not anodized like the regular 48RE ones. was there a shift kit installed if so whos went in it. Also if a replacement valve body went in it do you have the original ? please feel free to email me through our site for additional info
Important question I’m in the middle of trying to replace that overdrive solenoid. My question is do I have to drop the transmission in order to remove the manual labor and more importantly, is this job doable without me having to drop the transmission?
I’m working on a 2004 jeep grand Cherokee sitting on a lift
Soni have a 46re, stuck in fwd all gears. Seems like after watching this it could be a foward sylanoid vs valve body.
Park=fwd into park lock
R=no movement like in both foward and reverse
N= foward but no shifting
D= normal forward operation
2= normal
1=normal
Was crazy, went to town and stopped at store, leaving store and this happened. Maybe 10k miles from fresh rebuild...ugh
oh good news , Thanks for the update !
Initially in 2009 AMCO said they were having problems getting a good rebuilt valve body specific to my truck, tied up the truck for 3 weeks, replaced it twice. One mechanic at AAMCO says my problem is in the valve body & good luck getting one that will work & not too worn out, the other mechanic says no, it's electrical. When I unplug the break switch & the lockup stops does this tell you it could still be valve body?
Trans Ctrl Sol replaced,, Fixed the fault.. thanks for the Vid
My transmission was rebuilt they used a remanufactured torque converter. I have read where people have rebuilt them 3 times before recognizing an electrical problem.
Got a 06 Dodge ram ♈ 5.7. Hemi with. 545 RFE transmission won't go into gear ANY !!! 7 codes starting at p750. ! And so. On any ideas ??? I was thinking of shift selonold block replacement ??? But it might come down to wrecking yard. Can't afford the new 6 grand or 4 thousand. Remanned. . thanks please. Any info would help
I have been told by another local builder that since the symptoms of gear (speed) searching exists alongside of this problem being intermittent that it sounds electrical to him, such as poor ground (which I cleaned all ground connectors) or sensors, & this truck is said by the AAMCO manager to be to old for the computer to control the transmission.
The part where you put the park detent back in is missing. That's what I don't remember
yes , low (1st) and reverse are from the rear band
the front band is 1-2 , 2-3 , etc...
i would drop the pan , and check your band anchors and tension
sounds like maybe the strut broke , or fell down
I have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 straight 6 transmission shift delay into 3rd and reverse.Its a 42re.I replaced broken spring,solenoid,filter and fluid.Problem still there.What should I do next?
Will the larger Governor from a GM, allow higher line pressures?
After doing this job on the ground about how much fluid would I need to replace
could be low line pressure or front band issue. Feel free to email me through our site with more info - is the check engine light on ?
Also be aware to fill the unit it must be running in Neutral
if the unit is low on fluid they can have all kinds of adverse reactions
Hello , tough to say for sure - if you are only having an issue with reverse , i would first check the rear / low / reverse band servo in the case. If you can provide further info it may help us narrow it down. Best to contact us through our website
if you have a 2wd , and use your original overdrive
(swapping housings)
it will go right in no problem
you will need to be sure you use the same year range of case
for example 96 to 99 with a casting on top of "064" will only fit that range of truck. A "067" case would not fit.
also if you install a newer or older transmission into it the ohms will be different , and the computer will flag a code more than likely placing the unit into safe mode. feel free to email further questions to our site
yes i did buy it though cascade and the shift kit was the one that was recomended not the transgo. it did not seem to click when it was installed should i go back and recheck it
well a real rebuild transmission should have included new electrical. If a remanufactured valve body was installed most of the solenoids/electrical would have been tested. So three years later one or more items failing is possible.
for further chat please message us through our website
Thanks
I have a question. Im trying to take out my od unit. Do i need to take off the pan and remove the shift rod from the valve body before removing the od unit. Does the park rod come out with the od unit. I have a 42re 2wd version.
may have an extra good used spring if you are referring to the 2-3 position -
Please direct all questions through our website
Hello, Have a 95 jeep Grand Cherokee with the 42RE trans. While drive on the interstate,the trans shift down like passing gear, and sometimes when slowing down shift by itself. I have watched a few of your videos,and have ordered the master solenoid kit, do you think replacing every solenoid in the pan will solve this problem?
Hello , we stock the seal if needed very inexpensive
the hole is slightly tapered and the seal should pop out downward
then the replacement install from the bottom up into the hole in the case
if we can help with the seal , filter kit , or other items please send comments through our site
Thanks
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500, automatic trans, when I put it in gear, you can feel it, but when I start to drive or reverse, it doesn't want to go, you have to give it gas until it starts going , sort of slips
Watched the video and installed the full kit, no issues, but my 44RE is doing same thing: Over 45mph with the O/D engaged, the tcc is unlocking (I think) and the engine goes from 2000 RPM to sometimes only 2200 or so, but sometimes it jumps all the way to 3100 and will stay there for a while, then drop back to O/D, back and forth like this. You mentioned you have the external wiring harness - maybe this is it? Or do you have another suggestion? Already did TPS, didn't fix it.
Hello - We are in Oregon
please feel free to send additional questions to us through our site.
Hello Mike - we have had a few instances like this ; it most likely is where the solenoid seats into the pressure housing it needs to snap into place then slide the heat shield to lock it in. I welcome further questions - feel free to email me via our site - Robert
Hey buddy I was wondering if you could help me out my Jeep feels like its starting in 2nd or 3rd gear once I get past that its fine on the freeway and what not but I just purchased the master so annoyed but after doing a lot of research I'm thinking that it just might be the governor pressure sensor and solenoid with this malfunction also happen if the master solinoid was malfunctioning from the information I'm gathering in my research it seems to be more likely it's the governor pressure sensor and solenoid what do you think any help would be greatly appreciated
my husband and I received this kit today and my husband replaced the trans and gov. he said the elect connecter for the new gov did not want to lock the factory wire harness, perhaps two different types of connectors. trans still slipping bad
BE SURE TO FILL THESE TRANSMISSIONS WHILE RUNNING IN NEUTRAL ON LEVEL GROUND
THIS WILL EXHAUST ANY AIR THAT's IN THE SYSTEM.
www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/
CascadeTransParts Hi I’m working on my 2001 Dodge Durango and just a few days ago the tranny stopped shifting into 2nd, 3rd, 4th. The codes are p0732, p0733, p0734, I was wondering replacing the governor pressure solenoids and sensor might help it?
If the accumulator spring looks fine, then is it ok to reuse ?
What does the accumulator spring do ?
Why even change the wiring harness? I just changed out the overdrive solenoid and it was painless when leaving the old wires in place.
In your video you mentioned there are no check balls in this trans. When I dropped my oil pan I found a ball bearing or check ball.The reason I'm dropping this is I have no reverse.Overdrive was just rebuilt and the OD snap ring that usually breaks causing no reverse is still good. any thoughts on what direction I should go from here? Thanks
yes shown on our channel
Hello if purchased from us email us through our site: which shift kit did you use ? we are seeing some odd symptoms from the new solenoid not being seated all the way into the governor solenoid housing. It should click / snap into place.
Can you put a complete parts list for the valve body in regards of solenoids to replace?
about how long do you think doing the master solenoid kit + changing the fluid would take?
Thanks for the response!
I recently bought a used 42re and when I pulled out the 3-4 accumulator spring there was 3 stainless steel washers between the spring and the piston. Is there any reason you can think of that someone would have done this?
I have a 2000 dakota rt my 46re transmission is now reving to about 3500 before shifting to second fluid levels are full could that be my solenoid?
Could this be something that could cause not shifting into overdrive after warm? I'll look up your site and email you the symptoms
Hey my Jeep has a torque converter clutch solenoid code is that the lock up solinoids?
at 9:40 mark, right before putting the park rod on, you cranked something near the detent. What did you do? Also, where is the lockup spring and boost spring retainer?
Cranked the manual shift lever back into Park
You missed the part where a plastic piston with two springs fall out of the tranni. After watching this I went outside and removed the valve body on my 95 jeep grand Cherokee. When I dropped it down, a piston and two springs fell into my drain pan. Not sure what goes where...
Lawrence Jagodics ....l guess this guy can't answer that question
Lawrence Jagodics the two springs go in that white ppuckthe fatter of the two goes on bottom one on top and one on bottomg
Can I replace the parking rod without taking the valve body out put the transmission? I have the od unit removed already and the old parking rod is broke. 04 jeep 42re
If you can advise on which transmission you have i can comment further.
This design is primarily only on 1996 and newer models
please direct additional email questions through our site
I have a 98 Cherokee Classic 4x4 scanner says my shift sensors are bad. Only problem is it won't downshift into low/1st gear unless I manually do it. Do I need to replace all 3 sensors or just the 1? Do you have a vid of that operation? How do I tell if all 3 need replacement? It kept going from ok to not shifting & the chk eng light would cycle with ok or not. Once I've manually shited it everything works ok, just won't downshift to low. Suggestions? BTW excellent vids that I've watched. Thanks, bosavi - Veritas Et Libertas @BobSavi9
That sounds more like a governor pressure sensor. But if it's a shift solenoid, it'd be first gear only. The other 2 control the other two gears. However, if it were me, I would replace all 3, because you know the other 2 aren't too god awful far behind it, and on top of that, you dump $80 of transmission fluid, filter and gasket every time you change one. Wouldn't be worth the headache, time and money to me. Could probably get the solenoids alone for the 2 fluid changes you'd have to do.
thanks it really helped
I just replaced the governor pressure sensor and solenoid but I’m still getting the OD off light on my dash and high trans temp ? This is for a 97 Dodge Ram 2500
My shifting issues were fixed cuz it wasn’t shifting into gear befor but now there’s errors come up
My 2002 42RE Jeep doesn't want to shift from 2nd to 3rd unless I let off the gas...could it be this TCC/OD solenoid?