Great video, very valuable to anyone who's getting into 1st gen tundra/sequoia mods! One warning about the commonly (relatively speaking) sold deaver replacement leaf packs available from most retailers.(I can look up the part # if anyone wants it) They are a waste of money in my experience... I did gain maybe 1"- 1½" of lift after settling but that was with zero additional weight, ANY weight in the bed especially over time WILL cause them to become nearly flat, and the spring thickness will cause them to bottom out long before unmodified stock springs would. I would strongly recommend using Archive Garage replacement rear spring packs instead if your factory leafs are sagging, don't allow the articulation, ride quality, or weight capacity you are looking for... The typical deaver packs were definitely the worst investment I made while playing with 1st gen suspension setups! (Archive garage may even have Deaver manufacturing their springs, but if so they are to completely different specifications and include overload leafs. I doubt that is who currently produces their latest generation springs, but a few people suggested the first batch of shackleton leaf packs were custom spec'd and made by deaver) The Archive Garage spring packs are made in the USA and cost about the same as Deavers. The common Deaver springs may be useful if you have an empty truck with fiberglass bedsides, only fill up to ½ a tank of fuel, and don't care if they still require re-arching or replacement in less than 3-5 years... If you actually haul ANY weight including a full fuel tank expect them to be flat in 2 years or less... 🙄 Archive Garage is definitely a good hidden gem for 1st gen Tundra rear suspension components.
Great video! Thank you for all the info. Well done on your research. I just got my '06 Tundra and it had a 2" leveling kit installed but with OEM control arms and was looking to make it wear less on the ball joints wuth possible upgrades. From what I also found, the uniball style is not the way to go for my needs.
Axle wrap, not axle "warp", great video! so many spending thousands of dollars on the suspension for virtually no benefit, a very moderate lift 1 1/2" and quality shocks such as the Bilstein 5100 or 6112 . Money would be better spent on a quality locker such as the ARB.
Really Great info!! I have the 02 Tundra trd sr5 ac cab. My method of thinking was like yours, replace all U/L balljoints, wheel bearings w/ the addition of a diff drop. 🔧My actual Lift is 2-3/4" on OME Coils #2886 rated 660lbs which help to support the steel ARB bumper. Rolling on 33" duratracs. After market wheels allow for clearance required.
Nice! That's a super similar setup. I went for the level on the front and almost nailed it with the 2885 coils. It squats just slightly right now. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for making this incredibly informative video. I was going to get a leveling spacer for my front (changing LBJ's and wanted to save money on the alignments) but decided to just wait til I can upgrade to blisteins and go down that route. Thanks Tyler
I’ve watched a few of your tundra videos now. Great content. I personally went with a front level kit (spacer) and short rear block before getting some 32” wildpeaks. I’m happy with the stance and 30k miles later it is very drivable on the street. Eventually I’m going to go for some better off road and hauling performance by getting some coil overs and replacing the rear block with a leaf. Have you experienced an issue with your door latch not resetting on its on and if so do you have a video addressing that?
Yes yes my 06 trd4x4 xcab 2 inch lift k and n cold air and 3 inch exhaust with flow master muffler use it in mountains for firewood and live in rural Nevada desert never stuck or broke down 250k
@@208Tyler Hi Tyler - I am about to upgrade my suspension on my 06 Tundra DC and I plan to purchase 5100 as well. May I ask why you decided to go with OME 2885 spring instead of stronger springs 2887/2888 with your front bumper set up? Any downsides going with the stronger springs?
@@scotthsiang563 the ride would’ve been stiffer and it would’ve lifted higher than I wanted. I would’ve had to get new upper control arms to handle all that lift, and I would’ve had less downtravel available
Your comments about tire width and performance were really interesting to me as a newbie. I am just about to need new tires, can you recommend a size and maybe even a brand to go on the stock first GEN tundra that is used on road 80% of the time, along with snow? Thank you
For sure! 245/75/16 is a good size for a stock First Gen. I’ve had great experiences with Falken Wildpeak AT3W’s and Falken Rubitreks. Those are AT tires I don’t think you need anything more than an all terrain. They’re both snow-rated tires too!
My tundra came with 265/65/r17 (30.55 inches tall) stock tires and I found I loved the look and handling of 265/70/r17 tires much better. The best for me has been the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 in the 265/70/r17 which gives me a tire height of 31.65 inches which works with the Bilstein 6112 adjustable front coil over suspension that I run +1 inch (that is the max height they recommend with that suspension and it works with all the other original parts). This almost levels out the front with the rear, but leaves a very slight slope downward in case I need to pull a trailer or haul a load in the bed. I added helper springs in the rear and changed over to Bilstein 5100's to complete my suspension upgrade/replacement. These Nitto's are 10.71 inches wide and have a nice off road rugged look and only add a little tire whistle at highway speeds for the about the first +/-10k miles. I took these tires to from Oklahoma to Montana in the winter and ended up in two blizzards and on a gravel mountain road that I was told was a legit "road" but it was no more than a gravel driveway with switchbacks and two more feet of snow on top of the mountain than in the valley where we started :). No traction trouble at all even though "locals" were ending up on the side of the road left and right. Of course driving like you have a little good sense helps too lol! There is the more road friendly "Passenger" version that has 13.1mm treads and weighs in under 40 pounds with a load carry of 2679/tire which is what I run (i don't exceed the 7200 pound tow capacity ever), and a light truck version that weighs 51 pounds and has a load capacity of 3195/tire with 16mm of tread....but this will make your tundra ride a bit stiffer with the 10 ply sidewalls, but might be worth it depending on your off-roading and load carrying needs. (It may also dip your MPG slightly to go with the LT 10 ply tires.) I have never had a better suspension for every day handling and still very off road capable than this set up. These trucks make you want to get out and explore God's creation :) Happy trails! :)
So, I just saw the freedom off road coils a few months ago. I know of almost no one who has them, but I’d be intrigued as to how they work! I’ve only heard from one guy who has them and likes them! I’d love to try them out sometime
I did a 3.5 total chaos long travel suspension. The only thing I had to do to keep the same geometry was do a 1-inch differential drop. I got just under a 4-in lift. In all the geometry stay the same as factory. Didn't have to adjust my panhard bar either. It is all still sitting stock bodyleft is the wrong thing to do. Some shops won't even do it. You can see in my profile pic 1st Gen Sequoia there are also videos of it.
The more I research, the more I come to the conclusion of just getting a nice set shocks/struts and a set of of BFG AT KO3 tires and calling it a day. Maybe do a 1-1.5" lift. Are there any particular brands of shocks and struts that you prefer? I don't mind going with a nice set of reservoir shocks in the rear. For the front, something that can adjust between 0-2.5" will do. Also, do you think it is beneficial to do a diff drop at all with such a small lift?
What would be a recommendation to just level the truck without going fully beefy. I believe I have a 1.5" spacer in the front but the OEM tires look really small so I'm trying to balance a proper looking tire and having the truck be leveled.
What’s the link to your front bumper if you don’t mind me asking? I’ve got a 03 single cab 2wd that I’m looking to build into a prerunner. If you have any recommendations as well let me know! Made the switch from jdm cars so I’m new to this world lol
There’s a link to the bumper in the lower part of the description of this video. You can also see more about the bumper here: ruclips.net/video/21_eH70w_bE/видео.html
My 03 Tundra has a lowering kit. When cornering it handles like a car which is great but I’m looking for a video on how to make it stock again if I need to.
Quick question for you, you said its most common when lifting the tundras that the driver side sags...well I've got mine lifted about 2" and the front passenger side sits noticeably lower than the driver. When I got an alignment it seemed to correct it, but over time sags back down. Would you have any ideas what may cause this? The truck has 89k miles and I'm thinking of doing new ball joints upper and lower
The 5100s work with OEM springs or aftermarket springs! On my truck, I opted for a stiffer, longer spring, the OME 2885’s. This supports the weight of the bumper well. Note that, if at any point you’re trucks stock springs have been replaced, they may not work with 5100’s
I run 235 85 16 tires. A little smaller than most run, a lot of guys go for a 33”, mine is a 32”. See more here: ruclips.net/video/FzAQUVkIaHI/видео.html
I just bought a 2006 DC and the guy has 33's on it and way more lift than i want on it. what is the shortest amount of lift i can run on it to keep running the 33's?
I have a 2000 tundra with 2020 4runner trd off road wheels. I want to have 285/70r17 tires. Can you recommend what you would think the proper front suspension would be to avoid rubbing. I'm looking to just level the front and possibly have spacers. Also would this tire rub on up travel like you were saying on big bumps? Thanks in advance
According to this article, those wheels are 4.5” backspacing. trail4runner.com/2021/02/05/factory-5th-gen-4runner-wheel-options/ So, your tire shouldn’t rub on the UCA. If you level the truck, I’m guessing that you won’t get rubbing on the fender liner except maybe at full uptravel + wheel turned. 285 is fairly wide, but I don’t think you’ll have major issues.
I have a 2002 and I'm trying to level it. I went with Bilstein 5100s all the way around, but my question is how much does the front need to be lifted to level it out? My plan was to put the front Bilsteins on the highest setting, but would I still need to add a strut spacer?
Would sumo bump stumps be something you would consider for the front suspension? Would it assist or remedy a few the of the issues you addressed when it comes to lifting these trucks? I have a 33” tire and it rubs when I turn right, I trimmed a bit of plastic but anymore and I will need to remove the stock mudflap and the corner, I have a kit with the spacer for on top of the coil, and diff drop ext, new shocks too, I was considering the sumos when I go to do this, I do construction, my Toyota won’t be off-roading much and I only do residential so at most it’s gonna haul a trailer full of tools or wood. Nothing crazy I just want the truck to last. It came with 33s I’m considering going 31s. Which would mean I don’t need to lift it at all. But I got the kit, don’t wanna mess up the truck either though. Thoughts?
I’d go with durobumps or Perry parts for the front. Won’t really affect your lift kit, just how you handle through massive bumps where suspension bottoms out.
Good tires are a must. After that, you’re probably looking at some combination of skid plates, a winch, lockers, and maybe a moderate suspension lift. Adding aftermarket bumpers will give you solid recovery points and better approach and departure angles.
Great video! I have a 2003 tundra I just install a 2" leveling kit but the upper ball joint hits the Spring 😢 I supposed to have no problem with the original upper control arm. What you think?
Bilstein info sheet says 5100 on front for tundra 2003 are only suppose to be set at 1.5 inches or less, because it throws off the front end system/drive system. Whata you think? 13:37 I wanted to get the truck level but I would need to go to 2 inches on the 5100's but Bilstein manufacture said it would do damage as said. Whatta you think? T4TV'S
Is that for stock springs or all springs? Seems kinda unlikely, since most people are getting more than that out of their 5100’s. I’m using the same strut as what would go on your 03. I think you’ll be fine going up to 2”
@@208Tyler I have new 5100's all around with the original springs on the front. Instructions are explicit followed by a call Bilstine Manufacturer as I wrote. You might try calling them. There in SoCal. There are 5 settings. Mine are set at # 3 setting for 2002 Tundra 4x4 sr5, as stated they need to be by Bilstine. There are 2 more settings above #3. Number 4 setting will lift 2 inches. #5 will get you 2.5 inches. It'll be interesting to get you take on this. Call the manufacture. Thx 4 the response. By the way It may not matter if others are lifting higher. It takes a while for the ware to break down parts.
What are your thoughts on doing a stock to mid travel suspension set up and putting on a quality 2-3” body lift to clear any reasonably sized tire. I have kings up front with SPC USC and OEM LCA and ball joint with 265/70/17 and Radflo resi rear shocks with icon AAL because I took out my overload spring. I rub bad on rear wheel well when turned and articulating on a trail.
i know you haven’t had the pathy for awhile but i still see your comments on npora every so often. did you ever run across engine power mods or engine swaps for the vq? still looking to trailblaze the r50 community
If you need more power, get a different vehicle. The VQ35 in the R50 doesn’t interchange with other VQ models (G35, 350z, etc) and it’s honestly not a great engine anyhow. They’re infamous for burning oil and often have electrical/throttle and transmission issues as they age. If you’ve got an 4.3 gears you can swap to a 4.6 ratio. There’s no support for the R50 engine and anything custom is gonna be a moneypit and make the vehicle less reliable. Also, no matter what video you comment on, it’ll still be at the top of my RUclips Studio/Creator feed 👍
@@208Tyler this has been my first car, and so far I love it! my family has had it for 5 years and only put 20k miles on it (currently at 110k). everything about it has been great other than i don’t love the stock open diff. it’s just broken in and i am just starting to notice the oil burning (2-3 quarts between oil changes), so i am concerned. is there a platform i can send you a picture of my car on just to evaluate? some pathys i’ve seen sell for 7-8k, other only hit 4ish, so i’d like to see what it’s worth from a previous member.
Hit me up on Instagram, I have it linked in the description as well as it happens to be the same as my RUclips channel name. Otherwise you can contact me through the email listed on my “about” page
I am going to get a lift and a coastal bumper for my 06 tundra and. Do you reccomend going with the medium duty coils (70-100lbs) or the heavy duty coils (100+lbs).
Hello i have a 2005 tundra access cab limited 2wd with all stock suspension, will my 285/70r17 bfg ko2 on stock 5 spoke star wheel fit or rub on upper control arm?
I was looking to get a 4.5 tough country lift. But every upper control arm says they are for 2-4 inch lifts? Will they work or do you have any recommendations?
The tuff country has a drop bracket, it probably works just fine with stock uppers. If you’re not sure, do some more research until you completely understand the lift kit
@@208Tyler ok thanks man. I’ll probably still buy upper control arms just in case. Even if the lift fits with stocked uppers I’ll still have another set of them for when they go bad haha
You mention CV axles a lot in this video which means you’re mainly addressing the 4WD Tundra only. Maybe you should include it in the title and or make a video for just 2WD too?
There’s not a lot of reason to lift a 2WD pickup, besides prerunner builds which are a different beast. That aside, all the ideas and products available are the same for 2WD. You run into the same issues as you increase lift height and use the same solutions (uca’s, alignment, drop bracket lift).
@@208Tyler Ehh, really depends on where you live and how you wheel. 95% of people who lift their trucks probably wheel for a total of a full week or two per year. Even on most trails its rare that you really need 4wd, and actual real 4x4 with all 4 wheels gripping. You can do a lot with just a single locker in the rear. Thats what Im doing right now, but plan to convert my 2wd to manual locking 4wd in the next few years… if anything just for the “I did it” bragging rights that most people do it for rather than actually using it for more than a day a month. Depends on where you live of course but most people don’t live in the mountains next to trails that really require 4wd.
Spacers are a truly bad choice. I went with a Camburg High travel upper control arm. 3 1/2" of lift. To get the right angles. Now running 33"s. Still stock lower control arms. All new bushings, ball joints. Dura Bumps. The absolute truth when saying, take care of all of the problems at once. I added rear helper airbags on my truck. Carrying a bumper hitch Motorcycle carrier.
I think for people who are adding weight to the front, refreshing the suspension with “lift springs” to support the extra weight and improve handling is a worthwhile investment. Lifting solid axles isn’t all that worthwhile either apart from that
![Completely UNBIASED Suspension Shootout [Shock Value Conclusion]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sJEkSmewcQE/mqdefault.jpg)
I couldn’t agree more!! The older i get. The more i like to leave things closer to stock!!
Ya! It’s generally the most reliable setup haha
Great video, very valuable to anyone who's getting into 1st gen tundra/sequoia mods! One warning about the commonly (relatively speaking) sold deaver replacement leaf packs available from most retailers.(I can look up the part # if anyone wants it) They are a waste of money in my experience... I did gain maybe 1"- 1½" of lift after settling but that was with zero additional weight, ANY weight in the bed especially over time WILL cause them to become nearly flat, and the spring thickness will cause them to bottom out long before unmodified stock springs would. I would strongly recommend using Archive Garage replacement rear spring packs instead if your factory leafs are sagging, don't allow the articulation, ride quality, or weight capacity you are looking for... The typical deaver packs were definitely the worst investment I made while playing with 1st gen suspension setups! (Archive garage may even have Deaver manufacturing their springs, but if so they are to completely different specifications and include overload leafs. I doubt that is who currently produces their latest generation springs, but a few people suggested the first batch of shackleton leaf packs were custom spec'd and made by deaver) The Archive Garage spring packs are made in the USA and cost about the same as Deavers. The common Deaver springs may be useful if you have an empty truck with fiberglass bedsides, only fill up to ½ a tank of fuel, and don't care if they still require re-arching or replacement in less than 3-5 years... If you actually haul ANY weight including a full fuel tank expect them to be flat in 2 years or less... 🙄 Archive Garage is definitely a good hidden gem for 1st gen Tundra rear suspension components.
I’ve heard lots of good things about archive garage! That checks out
This video is gold, tells all man thank you!
Thanks for watching, I’m glad it helped!
Great video! Thank you for all the info. Well done on your research. I just got my '06 Tundra and it had a 2" leveling kit installed but with OEM control arms and was looking to make it wear less on the ball joints wuth possible upgrades. From what I also found, the uniball style is not the way to go for my needs.
Ya, no need for the Uniball UCA's. As far as wear on the ball joint, I think it mostly comes from hard use - rough terrain at high speeds.
Axle wrap, not axle "warp", great video! so many spending thousands of dollars on the suspension for virtually no benefit, a very moderate lift 1 1/2" and quality shocks such as the Bilstein 5100 or 6112 . Money would be better spent on a quality locker such as the ARB.
Haha, I probably did say that wrong.
Lockers are the way to go, can’t beat the increase in performance that they provide!
Really Great info!!
I have the 02 Tundra trd sr5 ac cab. My method of thinking was like yours, replace all U/L balljoints, wheel bearings w/ the addition of a diff drop.
🔧My actual Lift is 2-3/4" on OME Coils #2886 rated 660lbs which help to support the steel ARB bumper.
Rolling on 33" duratracs. After market wheels allow for clearance required.
Nice! That's a super similar setup. I went for the level on the front and almost nailed it with the 2885 coils. It squats just slightly right now. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@208Tyler absolutely 💯
Thanks for making this incredibly informative video. I was going to get a leveling spacer for my front (changing LBJ's and wanted to save money on the alignments) but decided to just wait til I can upgrade to blisteins and go down that route. Thanks Tyler
Awesome! Glad the video helped
@@208Tyler came back to this video and found my answer. lol. Thanks man
Probably too late now but get the lifetime alignment at firestone. Then you can have the alignment redone every 6 months
I’ve watched a few of your tundra videos now. Great content. I personally went with a front level kit (spacer) and short rear block before getting some 32” wildpeaks. I’m happy with the stance and 30k miles later it is very drivable on the street. Eventually I’m going to go for some better off road and hauling performance by getting some coil overs and replacing the rear block with a leaf.
Have you experienced an issue with your door latch not resetting on its on and if so do you have a video addressing that?
Yes yes my 06 trd4x4 xcab 2 inch lift k and n cold air and 3 inch exhaust with flow master muffler use it in mountains for firewood and live in rural Nevada desert never stuck or broke down 250k
Awesome Video and super useful info.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad you found it useful!
@@208Tyler Hi Tyler - I am about to upgrade my suspension on my 06 Tundra DC and I plan to purchase 5100 as well. May I ask why you decided to go with OME 2885 spring instead of stronger springs 2887/2888 with your front bumper set up? Any downsides going with the stronger springs?
@@scotthsiang563 the ride would’ve been stiffer and it would’ve lifted higher than I wanted. I would’ve had to get new upper control arms to handle all that lift, and I would’ve had less downtravel available
Extremely good video
Thanks! Glad it helped.
Appreciate the video. Helps.
Glad it helped!
Your comments about tire width and performance were really interesting to me as a newbie. I am just about to need new tires, can you recommend a size and maybe even a brand to go on the stock first GEN tundra that is used on road 80% of the time, along with snow? Thank you
For sure! 245/75/16 is a good size for a stock First Gen.
I’ve had great experiences with Falken Wildpeak AT3W’s and Falken Rubitreks. Those are AT tires I don’t think you need anything more than an all terrain.
They’re both snow-rated tires too!
@@208Tyler thank you!!!
My tundra came with 265/65/r17 (30.55 inches tall) stock tires and I found I loved the look and handling of 265/70/r17 tires much better.
The best for me has been the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 in the 265/70/r17 which gives me a tire height of 31.65 inches which works with the Bilstein 6112 adjustable front coil over suspension that I run +1 inch (that is the max height they recommend with that suspension and it works with all the other original parts). This almost levels out the front with the rear, but leaves a very slight slope downward in case I need to pull a trailer or haul a load in the bed. I added helper springs in the rear and changed over to Bilstein 5100's to complete my suspension upgrade/replacement. These Nitto's are 10.71 inches wide and have a nice off road rugged look and only add a little tire whistle at highway speeds for the about the first +/-10k miles.
I took these tires to from Oklahoma to Montana in the winter and ended up in two blizzards and on a gravel mountain road that I was told was a legit "road" but it was no more than a gravel driveway with switchbacks and two more feet of snow on top of the mountain than in the valley where we started :). No traction trouble at all even though "locals" were ending up on the side of the road left and right. Of course driving like you have a little good sense helps too lol!
There is the more road friendly "Passenger" version that has 13.1mm treads and weighs in under 40 pounds with a load carry of 2679/tire which is what I run (i don't exceed the 7200 pound tow capacity ever), and a light truck version that weighs 51 pounds and has a load capacity of 3195/tire with 16mm of tread....but this will make your tundra ride a bit stiffer with the 10 ply sidewalls, but might be worth it depending on your off-roading and load carrying needs. (It may also dip your MPG slightly to go with the LT 10 ply tires.)
I have never had a better suspension for every day handling and still very off road capable than this set up. These trucks make you want to get out and explore God's creation :)
Happy trails! :)
I have a 2004 sequoia stock with 285/70r17 and just rub the tiniest amount and am debating putting 1 or 2 in lift on
If you put a lift on, there will be less rub at ride height. You will probably still encounter rub on big bumps and whatnot
What do you think about the freedom off-road coilovers and rear shocks? A lot cheaper than others but not sure on the quality?
So, I just saw the freedom off road coils a few months ago.
I know of almost no one who has them, but I’d be intrigued as to how they work! I’ve only heard from one guy who has them and likes them!
I’d love to try them out sometime
@@208Tyler$883 out the door for coils, rear shocks, and UCAs. I'm tempted but with no reviews (not even on Amazon) I'm hesitant.
That’s such a good deal. They don’t reall promote them so I feel like that’s why no one buys them. Idk maybe I’ll give them a shot this summer!
I did a 3.5 total chaos long travel suspension. The only thing I had to do to keep the same geometry was do a 1-inch differential drop. I got just under a 4-in lift. In all the geometry stay the same as factory. Didn't have to adjust my panhard bar either. It is all still sitting stock bodyleft is the wrong thing to do. Some shops won't even do it. You can see in my profile pic 1st Gen Sequoia there are also videos of it.
I’m not sure what you’re trying to say…. If you did long travel, then your geometry is faaaaaaar from stock.
The more I research, the more I come to the conclusion of just getting a nice set shocks/struts and a set of of BFG AT KO3 tires and calling it a day. Maybe do a 1-1.5" lift. Are there any particular brands of shocks and struts that you prefer? I don't mind going with a nice set of reservoir shocks in the rear. For the front, something that can adjust between 0-2.5" will do.
Also, do you think it is beneficial to do a diff drop at all with such a small lift?
What would be a recommendation to just level the truck without going fully beefy. I believe I have a 1.5" spacer in the front but the OEM tires look really small so I'm trying to balance a proper looking tire and having the truck be leveled.
What’s the link to your front bumper if you don’t mind me asking? I’ve got a 03 single cab 2wd that I’m looking to build into a prerunner. If you have any recommendations as well let me know! Made the switch from jdm cars so I’m new to this world lol
There’s a link to the bumper in the lower part of the description of this video.
You can also see more about the bumper here: ruclips.net/video/21_eH70w_bE/видео.html
My 03 Tundra has a lowering kit. When cornering it handles like a car which is great but I’m looking for a video on how to make it stock again if I need to.
Quick question for you, you said its most common when lifting the tundras that the driver side sags...well I've got mine lifted about 2" and the front passenger side sits noticeably lower than the driver. When I got an alignment it seemed to correct it, but over time sags back down. Would you have any ideas what may cause this? The truck has 89k miles and I'm thinking of doing new ball joints upper and lower
The most likely cause is old or improperly installed suspension.
I would do LBJs if they haven’t been done yet. 89k is awesome though!
Thinking about getting the 5100s, but do i need aftermarket springs or oem ok?
The 5100s work with OEM springs or aftermarket springs!
On my truck, I opted for a stiffer, longer spring, the OME 2885’s. This supports the weight of the bumper well.
Note that, if at any point you’re trucks stock springs have been replaced, they may not work with 5100’s
How about a 2.5” lift??
What size tires are you running?
I run 235 85 16 tires. A little smaller than most run, a lot of guys go for a 33”, mine is a 32”.
See more here: ruclips.net/video/FzAQUVkIaHI/видео.html
Great video
Thank you!
I just bought a 2006 DC and the guy has 33's on it and way more lift than i want on it. what is the shortest amount of lift i can run on it to keep running the 33's?
I have a 2000 tundra with 2020 4runner trd off road wheels. I want to have 285/70r17 tires. Can you recommend what you would think the proper front suspension would be to avoid rubbing. I'm looking to just level the front and possibly have spacers. Also would this tire rub on up travel like you were saying on big bumps? Thanks in advance
Would a 265/80r17 be a better option 🤔
According to this article, those wheels are 4.5” backspacing. trail4runner.com/2021/02/05/factory-5th-gen-4runner-wheel-options/
So, your tire shouldn’t rub on the UCA. If you level the truck, I’m guessing that you won’t get rubbing on the fender liner except maybe at full uptravel + wheel turned.
285 is fairly wide, but I don’t think you’ll have major issues.
So would you think a 275 or 265 may be a better option?
I’d personally pick a skinnier tire, yes, but mostly cause that’s what I prefer for snow driving, MPG, etc.
The lower Camburg long travel kit is
$7K. Regearing/Bigger Brakes/ Bigger tires and rims.
I have a 2002 and I'm trying to level it. I went with Bilstein 5100s all the way around, but my question is how much does the front need to be lifted to level it out? My plan was to put the front Bilsteins on the highest setting, but would I still need to add a strut spacer?
Measure the height difference from front to rear on your truck. Lift accordingly
What is the stock ride height on first gens? Trying to figure out how much lift a friends ‘02 has
No clue man. It would depend on trim level, engine, tire size, 2WD vs 4WD….
Would sumo bump stumps be something you would consider for the front suspension? Would it assist or remedy a few the of the issues you addressed when it comes to lifting these trucks?
I have a 33” tire and it rubs when I turn right, I trimmed a bit of plastic but anymore and I will need to remove the stock mudflap and the corner, I have a kit with the spacer for on top of the coil, and diff drop ext, new shocks too, I was considering the sumos when I go to do this, I do construction, my Toyota won’t be off-roading much and I only do residential so at most it’s gonna haul a trailer full of tools or wood. Nothing crazy I just want the truck to last. It came with 33s I’m considering going 31s. Which would mean I don’t need to lift it at all. But I got the kit, don’t wanna mess up the truck either though. Thoughts?
I’d go with durobumps or Perry parts for the front. Won’t really affect your lift kit, just how you handle through massive bumps where suspension bottoms out.
@@208Tyler thanks
I’ve got a double cab sr5 4wd Trd off road package but want to make it more mountain/off-road capable how I should I go about?
Good tires are a must. After that, you’re probably looking at some combination of skid plates, a winch, lockers, and maybe a moderate suspension lift. Adding aftermarket bumpers will give you solid recovery points and better approach and departure angles.
Great video! I have a 2003 tundra I just install a 2" leveling kit but the upper ball joint hits the Spring 😢 I supposed to have no problem with the original upper control arm. What you think?
I have seen that happen. Either a different lift kit or a different upper control arm are what’s going to solve your issue.
Great video... So so I have a 2wd, with 1.5inch rake. Do you recommend a 1 or 2 inch spacer? Doubt they sell 1.5's right? Thank you
I don’t recommend spacers, period.
Bilstein info sheet says 5100 on front for tundra 2003 are only suppose to be set at 1.5 inches or less, because it throws off the front end system/drive system. Whata you think? 13:37
I wanted to get the truck level but I would need to go to 2 inches on the 5100's but Bilstein manufacture said it would do damage as said. Whatta you think?
T4TV'S
Is that for stock springs or all springs? Seems kinda unlikely, since most people are getting more than that out of their 5100’s. I’m using the same strut as what would go on your 03.
I think you’ll be fine going up to 2”
@@208Tyler I have new 5100's all around with the original springs on the front. Instructions are explicit followed by a call Bilstine Manufacturer as I wrote. You might try calling them. There in SoCal.
There are 5 settings. Mine are set at # 3 setting for 2002 Tundra 4x4 sr5, as stated they need to be by Bilstine. There are 2 more settings above #3. Number 4 setting will lift 2 inches. #5 will get you 2.5 inches.
It'll be interesting to get you take on this. Call the manufacture.
Thx 4 the response. By the way It may not matter if others are lifting higher. It takes a while for the ware to break down parts.
@@simpletruckerstuff9478 Do you have the rear end set at 1 then? Is the rear sitting on stock springs as well?
What are your thoughts on doing a stock to mid travel suspension set up and putting on a quality 2-3” body lift to clear any reasonably sized tire. I have kings up front with SPC USC and OEM LCA and ball joint with 265/70/17 and Radflo resi rear shocks with icon AAL because I took out my overload spring. I rub bad on rear wheel well when turned and articulating on a trail.
I don’t like body lifts really. A little dangerous imo, and higher center of gravity. Clearing tires is best accomplished by cutting or tubbing
i know you haven’t had the pathy for awhile but i still see your comments on npora every so often. did you ever run across engine power mods or engine swaps for the vq? still looking to trailblaze the r50 community
If you need more power, get a different vehicle.
The VQ35 in the R50 doesn’t interchange with other VQ models (G35, 350z, etc) and it’s honestly not a great engine anyhow. They’re infamous for burning oil and often have electrical/throttle and transmission issues as they age.
If you’ve got an 4.3 gears you can swap to a 4.6 ratio.
There’s no support for the R50 engine and anything custom is gonna be a moneypit and make the vehicle less reliable.
Also, no matter what video you comment on, it’ll still be at the top of my RUclips Studio/Creator feed 👍
@@208Tyler this has been my first car, and so far I love it! my family has had it for 5 years and only put 20k miles on it (currently at 110k). everything about it has been great other than i don’t love the stock open diff. it’s just broken in and i am just starting to notice the oil burning (2-3 quarts between oil changes), so i am concerned. is there a platform i can send you a picture of my car on just to evaluate? some pathys i’ve seen sell for 7-8k, other only hit 4ish, so i’d like to see what it’s worth from a previous member.
Hit me up on Instagram, I have it linked in the description as well as it happens to be the same as my RUclips channel name. Otherwise you can contact me through the email listed on my “about” page
Would you still recommend upgraded UCAs (spc) on a Minimal lift (less than 2”) with tire height under 31” similar to how your setup?
It’s not required and will make things a little more complicated. I’d keep the stock UCA in that case.
If you buy a TRD and put leveling kit no problem 285 r75 16
I am going to get a lift and a coastal bumper for my 06 tundra and. Do you reccomend going with the medium duty coils (70-100lbs) or the heavy duty coils (100+lbs).
I went with 2885’s from OME. I’m not sure what their weight rating is.
@@208Tyler with the winch do they hold up well or do you reccoment the 2887's instead?
They hold up good, I don’t want to go any stiffer
I have a 2000 tundra, it wears out the front tires quick, it also has spacers in the front, if I take off the spacers, will if fix the alignment?
Taking the spacers out will make it easier to align
Hello i have a 2005 tundra access cab limited 2wd with all stock suspension, will my 285/70r17 bfg ko2 on stock 5 spoke star wheel fit or rub on upper control arm?
They might fit without rubbing, but I don’t think it’s likely.
I was looking to get a 4.5 tough country lift. But every upper control arm says they are for 2-4 inch lifts? Will they work or do you have any recommendations?
The tuff country has a drop bracket, it probably works just fine with stock uppers.
If you’re not sure, do some more research until you completely understand the lift kit
@@208Tyler ok thanks man. I’ll probably still buy upper control arms just in case. Even if the lift fits with stocked uppers I’ll still have another set of them for when they go bad haha
@@cadencox2452Did you end up getting the lift? I’m kind of in the same boat right now on buying a rcd 6 inch lift
You mention CV axles a lot in this video which means you’re mainly addressing the 4WD Tundra only. Maybe you should include it in the title and or make a video for just 2WD too?
There’s not a lot of reason to lift a 2WD pickup, besides prerunner builds which are a different beast.
That aside, all the ideas and products available are the same for 2WD. You run into the same issues as you increase lift height and use the same solutions (uca’s, alignment, drop bracket lift).
@@208Tyler Ehh, really depends on where you live and how you wheel. 95% of people who lift their trucks probably wheel for a total of a full week or two per year. Even on most trails its rare that you really need 4wd, and actual real 4x4 with all 4 wheels gripping. You can do a lot with just a single locker in the rear. Thats what Im doing right now, but plan to convert my 2wd to manual locking 4wd in the next few years… if anything just for the “I did it” bragging rights that most people do it for rather than actually using it for more than a day a month. Depends on where you live of course but most people don’t live in the mountains next to trails that really require 4wd.
Spacers are a truly bad choice. I went with a Camburg High travel upper control arm. 3 1/2" of lift. To get the right angles. Now running 33"s. Still stock lower control arms. All new bushings, ball joints. Dura Bumps. The absolute truth when saying, take care of all of the problems at once. I added rear helper airbags on my truck. Carrying a bumper hitch Motorcycle carrier.
Rims.
the backspacing.
Honestly IFS isn't really worth lifting.
I think for people who are adding weight to the front, refreshing the suspension with “lift springs” to support the extra weight and improve handling is a worthwhile investment.
Lifting solid axles isn’t all that worthwhile either apart from that
Subhuman jeep owner