19:16 you can prevent this by pushing the sticker outer borders into the card itself. Also pair up the faces of the cards and let the deck rest under some crushing weight for a week. This merged both parts of each card and counters any possible warping. The drawback is of course that you cannot play for a week. My cards rest a least 1-2 nights under weight.
Or draw the fold line with a ballpoint pen and some firm pressure. It's a little easier than the light touch needed with a knife. Or use an actual scoring tool.
I truly love watching your videos. I have been trying out different ideas that work but yours are simple and consistently better than I have found. Thanks.
Thank You so much for all of your videos. What a wealth of knowledge you've shared. You're an excellent teacher and I look forward to You making another batch of videos.
Awesome Video. Wow it captures so many needs in one go. Brilliant. =) I love that you give reason to every decision, tool, meterial, etc. It gives a very good perspective of what to expect from which method. This helped me with a costum Birthday gift for a Friend. SO> you basically made at least two People happy with one Video. Great Work
This is an excellent tutorial - especially as it's a UK-products-based one (apart from those darned Oregon corner croppers!) I've always found the colours to be a bit "muted" on a linen finish paper and prefer a "presentation paper" (essential ~100 gsm single sided coated/photo paper - HP do a "high resolution" paper, Epson do a "photo quality ink jet" paper). What weight linen paper do you use - can you provide an example product. I ask this because when you add 2 x 100+ gsm paper stock to a 210 gsm card you have the potential to end up with a very thick playing card. So how does a deck of 52 cards compare in thickness to a stack of Waddington's or MTG cards? I use a Canford Black Paper core, which at 150 gsm gives me a card at about 360 gsm, and about the same thickness as commercial cards, but with not quite enough "snap" to riffle shuffle. BTW, I find that lining up the fold by using a light box to align the card edges is a lot more straightforward and a lot less time consuming that the multiple pinch and crease method you show. However, my ~100 gsm presentation paper may be easier to see through than your linen finish (and of course it's dependent on having a clear printed edge to the card).
Hi Jave, thanks for such a great video. What about printing the cards in adhesive paper instead of using spray adhesive, then stick the adhesive paper to the cardstock?
For method 2, would it benefit at all to spray the label paper with lacquer like in the 3rd method? Would give a nicer feel and/or make it last longer?
This is awesome info, and we'll presented. And let me tell ya, my wife is going to LOVE this new hobby /s. But babe, think of the money I'm saving by not buying a new game, I'm just going to spend a bunch on new art supplies instead!
Well done... sunsbcribed. I been doing nearly the identical technique as your method #3, with one exception that you may wish to try. Instead of using 210gsm for the card's center, I use a 3mil lamination sheet (split into two 1.5mil sheets and each cut into 5.5" x 8.5" strips) for the cards center. Once glued and dried they give a nice snap to the cards when riffle shuffling. This mimics the plastic center used in commercial playing cards.
Really appreciate the detail you went into describing not only that it was 3 mil total, but split into the two 1.5 mil sides. Very much going to try this idea. I really haven't liked the idea of super thick decks of cards, and you can see his (with the note of using 210 gms at ruclips.net/video/WyMVRJu5yQ4/видео.html) looks rather thick for the full deck at ruclips.net/video/WyMVRJu5yQ4/видео.html are simply monstrous.
The results seem amazing for the third method, but since I don't quite have a place to use the sprays, do you think that printing the cards in label paper would yield a good result? Have you tried it?
Fantastic tutorials. Thanks so much. I've been procrastinating with getting started but I'm now on it! All set out with my first deck (in Inkscape) and ready to get it printed on linen paper. Thanks.
Your tutorial is amazig, i'm particularly interested in the third method. It's more effort but i think i will love the result even more when i use it. I have been looking on how to make a card as close to a real one as possible, at least the quality of a magic card. I am trying to make a set of a game that is no longer on the market that i want to play with my friends, and i already have some of the original cards and i don't want them to be distinguishable from one another. I know that will require a lot of trial and error, at least while dealing with the colours of the pictures. What do you think about printing in card stock and laminating with laminating pouches? What is the closest method you have come by to make something perfect or almost perfect?
Matching a matching commercial playing card completely at home is always going to be a difficult prospect - you have to worry not just about the printing, but also the 'feel' of the card - how elastic it is, how stiff it is, etc. - and the thickness. Unless you can get hold of some of the stock that regular playing cards are made of an print directly on that, which will likely require a flat-feed printer that doesn't curve the paper through rollers as it prints, you're probably out of luck. However! If you're willing to use sleeves, it becomes a lot easier a task. It'll still require some trial and error because the specific papers that you have available locally may well be different to the ones around here, but I've definitely had success matching the cards FFG used for Android: NetRunner to fill out some pre-built decks for friends. (I have a pretty extensive ANR collection, but not enough duplicates to build several decks at once!) Using opaque-backed sleeves means that you don't have to worry about the back face of the card, and have a little more leeway on the thickness; I found a particular combination of high-quality label paper and cardstock that left me with a card that - once sleeved - was pretty indistinguishable even in feel from an FFG card.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay First of, i'm amazed and grateful that you answered my comment so fast even when the video is 4 years old! Reading your answer made me realize that i only want the cards to feel good and to not be able to be recognized by looking at the card backs (same colours and quality and type of glossiness). My approach at the moment when i wrote the original comment was from a perfectionist angle, which I now know is not really that necessary. Sadly this cards have such an unconventional measure (60x112.5mm) that the only sleeves i have found to "fit" are pretty rare, at least in my country, and these are transparent . Leaving that aside, you have encouraged me to try and test things instead of looking everywhere in the internet for the perfect method to achieve the result on the first try. Thank you!
Thanks for this video! I wonder though why for method one you don't just print double-sided on thicker paper? ;) I made some cards recently by printing double-sided on 160 (or 180, don't remember) mg paper, and they're thick enough to play with and my inkjet printer can still handle printing that paper double-sided. Another possibility to make them a little thicker would probably to laminate them and then slide them inside the sleeves (though that's a bit much, I guess).
Printing double-sided rarely works well because almost all printers have slight (or significant) registration issues. That is, even though you get content on both sides of the page, the won't line up perfectly. Even the really good printers I've used can be 1/32" (about 2 points, or a little less than a millimetre) misaligned. Less good printers can be misaligned even more.
The number 3 is what i am doing now BUT, the problem is, when i apply the Clear Varnish for Acrylic Gloss, seems like the paper DRINKS it and there is barely any gloss to it and just a little better feel to the touch. Overall, for all the works and the COST (thick paper cardstock (not linen because it's even more expansive) in my case instead of folding it on a cardstock, plus the spray glue, plus the Varnish that i need to apply quite a bit to see a good difference, the cost of producing those cards, and the working time, is almost equal to send my projects to a local printer that will print my cards professionnaly on cardstock 350 gsm glossy with perfect print. So it is not cost efficient, not time efficient, and quality is still way lower than what my local printer shop can do (not as good as REAL playing card but still quite satisfying).
If you *have* a local printer who can do professional card printing with a good turnaround, then that's absolutely the best option! But it's not an possibility for a lot of people - around here, for example, the only local printers who take short-run jobs only do booklets, flyers and binding, so I'd have to rely on online POD places which are typically an order of magnitude more expensive than the process presented in the video and have a much, much slower turnaround.
29:25 I tried this for a few hundred times now and it looks great if it works but half the time it doesn’t work. The reason is that front and back while aligned will slip a mm. This looks small but on a card it looks like a misprint.
Could you list the material you used for each method? Especially the last one, of course. You printed the cards on a normal A4 paper? And which sprays you used?
For the first method, I printed on regular 80gsm copier paper; it doesn't matter so much what you use if you're just going to be sleeving the result alongside a regular playing card, so just use a paper that holds an image well - if anything you specifically don't want anything too thick or it'll make the whole sleeved card pretty thick! For the second method, I used regular full-sheet labels - probably from Staples or Rymans, the kind you might print shipping labels on. Generally this is good enough if your card designs have a coloured or patterned background - but you can get high-quality labels that block the card face from showing through if you're printing cards with predominantly white backgrounds, or if you just want a higher-quality image. For the third method, I used 210gsm cardstock ('art card' from Rymans in the UK) for the core, and a 90gsm linen paper for the outer layer (Zanders Zeta - it has a watermark, but you can't see it once the card is glued together). The linen texture helps prevent there being too much friction between one card and the next, and feels nicer to the touch. There's nothing wrong with using a smooth paper if you prefer for this method, of course - but it's worth using a high-quality paper that prints an image well, since you're putting so much effort into the rest of the card! For spray glue I tend to stick to 3M glues; they're more expensive than a lot of competitors, but reliably high-quality. If you want to be absolutely sure that the glue sticks you could use Super77, but I find that "Craft Mount" and "Photo Mount" are just as good for playing cards and cheaper per can. Just make sure that you buy 'permanent' as opposed to 'repositionable', and be careful of what kind of glue you get. Some spray glues (like the 3M products I use) spray a fine mist of glue that coats a thin layer on your paper; other types of spray glue spray out a thick liquid that foams in place and makes a mess. You can generally avoid the latter kind by not buying anything that says it's good for sticking carpets down.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay So once you're done glueing all the sides on 210gms cardstock with 90gms linen paper, you have cards with aprox. 390gms. Is that too much or is it perfectly balanced?
Thanks for the video, this is awesome! Would it be at all useful to spray lacquer the sticker cards (method 2)? Would that help them from fading/smudging with use?
It can be! I didn't for this demo because I wanted to show it as a pretty easy method that doesn't require any extra bits and pieces, but spray-lacquering your printing will generally make it more resilient whichever method you use. It's always worth testing the particular spray you're using out on a non-essential print on similar paper first, just to be sure.
I know some people in the kit modelling world do this, but my understanding is that hairspray isn't really all that resilient compared to acrylic, so on something like cards that gets handled a lot I'd expect it to wear away more easily. But I've not tried it, so I could well be wrong!
Thanks for sharing Jake! Those cards look absolutely fantastic. Have you considered a short tutorial on how to turn a standard 9-card PDF into your 4-card front/back template? I assume this is something that can easily be done using free software such as GIMP, but with the amount of experience you have I'd have to image you have it down to a science! Keep up the videos, I very much enjoy this series!
Thank you for your awesome videos! Do you have any experiences with card stock with 300gsm? I have problems to get those 210gsm card stock sheets, so I investigate for an alternative strength.
What kind of linen paper are you using for the last way... most Linen paper is very textured, so I can't imagine it'd be very good to use because of the bumpiness/thickness it adds?
do you have any videos talking about the type or brand of printers to use for all the different print and play functions? stickers cards boxes etc. . .
Yep - you can do more if you like, but that's all I've ever felt necessary. In the case of inkjet prints it just needs to stop moisture and handling from smudging the ink, and in the case of laser prints one coat is already enough to firmly fix the toner in place.
It's a game called Machination, from a design contest on BGG years ago, by the user Londonien/Simon McGregor. My wife and I did a redesign (she the illustrations, me the graphic design) for a PnP Secret Santa a few years back, and that's what those cards are. Unfortunately I don't think Simon ever actually created a game entry in the BGG database for his game.
36:40 I associate bypass with heart failures. It’s called a rounder cutter and what you’re holding there is the worst of its kind. I tried two of these one was more like a corner mutilator, the other was okay. But what you really need is the one Amazon sells as kotodama 3 cm 5cm 10cm rounder cutter. Costs $10 and if you make expansions to existing board games the 3mm is the one you want.
It's a "bypass cutter" because the blades pass each other by - as opposed to an "anvil cutter" where one blade descends onto a receiving surface. But yes, the example in this video is indeed spectacularly rubbish! It's the most common kind of thing people get sold if they go into a art and craft shop and ask for a corner rounder, unfortunately, so it's worth mentioning just to point out the problems. If you mean the "Kadomaru Pro", it is indeed much better than the one in the video, but it takes forever to get delivered and I didn't have mine at the point I shot this video. I still prefer the Oregon Lam cutter at 38:45, but that's not only just as hard to get hold of over here in the UK, it's much more expensive!
@@DiningTablePrintPlay yeah. People that just discovered print and play rounder cutter, google it and get sold crap. There is actually 1 (!) good bypass variant that is good and only $3 but the trouble is finding it. There is a video that compares all of those in great detail and after that I got a good one. But still - you don't want 5cm corners off every card version. You want 2 or 3 like professional products do. I don't remember any shipping delays from japan but that was over a year ago. Things were different then. The heavy duty cutters are outside my budget but they do seem they last forever. However they are for big things like boards. If you want to round off chits or small stuff you need other tools.
The first method can work even better if you change the following: - Get "standard size" TCG sleeves (here in Germany they cost between 5€ for a pack of 80 and 10€ for a pack of 100, depending on quality) - Get a bunch of old crappy Pokémon or Magic The Gathering cards (any other TCG that uses standard size works good as well). You can either find bulks of them online or if you go to a TCG store you can get a stack of them for very cheap or maybe (if you ask some of the players) even for free - use the Pokémon or MTG cards as the backing and put them into the sleeves with the print-out, the prints will fit much nicer inside This method gives you the advantage of having cards in *proper* sleeves which makes shuffling work like a charm. (Trust me. I play a lot of TCGs so I shuffle a lot and every time I have to shuffle cards without sleeves it's a nightmare. If you want really good quality sleeves get Dragon Shields, [10€ for 100] KMCs [6€ I believe for 100] or Ultimate Guard's Katana [10€ for 100] or Coretex [8€ for 100]) Also in my experience it usually looks a lot better than the smaller sleeves since the prints don't get as smushed. Edit: I added the prices of the sleeves that I pay at my local TCG store, so you have an idea of pricing.
You can, but if you're planning to fold the cardstock over to glue two halves together instead of folding a bit of paper around some cardstock, you'll end up with a card that's nearly twice as thick as the result shown. That's the main disadvantage - home-made cards are already thicker than commercially-printed cards! If you plan instead to just print double-sided, then you'll probably find that your printer doesn't line up the two sides very well - it's not something most domestic printers are really capable of doing to nearer than 10mm or so, and often you'll find there's a slight rotation as the paper gets picked up unevenly that means the two sides don't even get printed at the same angle. Also a single layer of cardstock won't have so much elastic 'spring' as a glued-together sandwich - the lamination actually adds a fair amount of elasticity.
@@Didomah I've not had much luck myself using lamination sheets, the ones I've tried have left the cards pretty floppy - I prefer my playing cards more stiff. That said, there's several different kinds of and thicknesses of lamination sheet, so it's really a matter of trial and error - try what you have and see if you like the result! I know a couple of people in the Print and Play Gaming Facebook group swear by lamination sheets. One proponent, Rachel Bruner, explains her method in this video: ruclips.net/video/DgNJmAkO1_M/видео.html - I think she says she's using 5 mil sheets, which is the US equivalent of 125 micron.
@@Didomah Personally I've not had much luck with lamination sheets - when I tried it, the cards came out pretty floppy, which I'm not fond of. That said, there's many different kinds of and thicknesses of lamination sheets, so really it's trial and error - try what you have, and see if you like it. I know several members of the Print and Play Gaming Facebook group use lamination sheets as the core of their playing cards, so it's obviously to some people's taste! One proponent, Rachel Bruner, has a good video on her method here: ruclips.net/video/DgNJmAkO1_M/видео.html - I think she says she uses 5mil sheets, which is the US equivalent of 125micron.
Glad to have helped - and yes, it is indeed a Graphgear 1000! I went through dozens of cheapo mechanical pencils before I got it, and kept leaving them places and losing them. Having one that's actually quite decent seems to have broken the habit and I haven't lost it once. ;-)
I followed the steps at method 3, but didn't use the mold because it would take work putting covers and regular cards one at a time... How naïve I was! This would have made the gluing part much more simpler than how it was. But no matter! It is all experience, after all. Your mold seems to work to any shape of card, as long as they are all regular on the page, which will help me make chinese cards/Hanafuda if I want to try a different project. Even then, this video helped me make a personalized gift for my mother :)
Love the video, was wanting to make some cards for a gift and this is definitely the best how to video I've seen. 1 Question: Where do you get your card template for method 2? Do you use a certain program? Any help would be great thanks.
I know some people in the kit modelling world do this, but my understanding is that hairspray isn't really all that resilient compared to acrylic, so on something like cards that gets handled a lot I'd expect it to wear away more easily. But I've not tried it, so I could well be wrong!
Idk if this has already been asked but what weight linen paper do you use for the last method? I see like 24lbs and 32lbs, etc. online. I really find your videos helpful! Following your video for the stitch bound rule book turned out great! Thanks!
I'm afraid here in the UK all paper is sold in gsm weights, so I'm not sure for certain what the corresponding lbs weights are since US paper uses some confusing system of four or five different classes of paper! I use 100gsm linen paper (apparently equivalent to 27lb Bond, according to the Internet) for cards like the ones in the third method here; specifically the Zeta line, which is made by Reflex in Germany*. However, paper weight isn't the only relevant factor, and this 100gsm linen is as thin and flexible as most 80gsm copier paper. I've used other linen paper in the past which was 90gsm but stiffer and harder to work with. * If you try and find this particular brand: the box I have is branded "Zanders Zeta", which might make one assume it's made by the Zanders paper company... which shut down in 2021 due to a dramatic drop in demand through the pandemic. However, news articles around the time note that the Zeta line is made by Reflex, and the box I have also notes that it's made by Reflex; looking around today I don't find reference to "Zanders Zeta" but "Zeta by Reflex", so maybe they licensed the name and have re-branded since Zanders went under or something.
Hey thanks for the reply ! I was thinking about the knife and using something round to cut them, but was worried about the result. That said they do not need to be perfect and it doesn't matter if they are not all the exact same (it's not for playing). Thanks for the tutorials I'll try that as soon as I can :)
That's because RUclips has stripped them all out! They were fine when they were first written in, but at some point over the last year or so it seems RUclips had a period of not wanting people to link to particular points in video - I didn't find the timestamp option on the share button during that period either. It seems to be back, but the timestamps from the links in the description are gone. I need to spend some time (hah) going through all the videos, working out what they should be and putting them back.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay RUclips's timestamp system now works by just merely typing in the time of the video in a two-digit, colon-as-separator manner, like how you would normally write the time, just in case you haven't figured it out (I assume you have done so though).
Hey there! Your "awesome" cards look really great! Do you guys ever do any paid work making cards? I'd love to discuss if you're interested. Hope to hear from you soon! NL
If you fold a sheet of linen card back on itself following the third method in this video you'll have super-thick cards! It's also harder to fold cleanly as it's quite stiff. Some people have success with one page of linen card and one page of linen paper back-to-back, for which you'll ideally want to print cards in a 3x3, faces-on-one-sheet, backs-on-another layout and line them up on a light box or against a bright window. One tip for this is to trim a bit off the long side of the paper and use some masking tape to stick the paper down to the back of the cards once lined up, so you can open along the tape fold, apply glue, then fold back into place still lined up. (This is a bit easier with US 'letter' paper than international A4 paper, as the page is wider; it's preferable to hinge the longer side as it reduces the maximum distance from the fold, which reduces error, but it'll work with a short-edge hinge if you don't have space on the long edge.) In theory you can print on both sides of the linen card, but it's hard to get double-sided printing to line up properly with a home printer, and one of the benefits of gluing multiple sheets together is that the lamination gives the card a bit more of an elastic spring.
Ignorant question but in method three where you a line the front and back of the cards is the black card stock core "construction paper"? Or is it specially called "card stock"?
Use cardstock. It's different than regular construction paper because it's thicker, and most scrapbookers (like myself) use them. You can find them at Joann's fabrics, Michael's Craft store or any scrapbook store around. A smidge more expensive per sheet or tablet, but it's worth it.
The simple answer is that I don't have anywhere near as much free time as I used to before our son was born! I do have a queue of things I'd like to do videos about but it's still probably going to be a little while before they get covered.
Does the linen paper you use have a watermark? It seems almost all linen paper has some kind of watermark, and I'm thinking it would be an issue if it landed on the back of the cards. If anyone has a recommendation for watermark-free linen paper in the US, please respond.
After more research, I found comments on the boardgamegeek web site that state the watermark won't show since the paper is glued to cardstock (so light won't show through). Here is a link to Jake's comment on the subject: boardgamegeek.com/article/14671370#14671370
Why you don't use a folding tool in method 3? (It is called "Falzbein" in German. I think there is no specific English word for that but you'll find the tool on the internet with that keyword ;-)
It's textured to have a surface like that of linen, rather than being made with linen. The benefit for playing cards is that it reduces friction between one card and the next - if you use plain paper the cards are harder to overhand shuffle.
There are a large number of sizes, so really it depends on how big your cards are! The two common card sizes that you'll find in a lot of board games (and PnP titles) are called "Poker" and "Bridge" size. "Poker" sized cards vary around 2.5x3.5" or 62-63x88-89mm, depending on the manufacturer (for example, Magic: The Gathering cards are in millimetres because they were originally manufactured by a European company) - and you'll find most PnP files come in some poker size. If you look for "standard" sleeves that fit common CCGs like Magic, these will fit poker-sized PnP cards fine. If you're sleeving card fronts alongside a regular playing card, American "Bicycle" cards are poker-sized, as are "Royal Flush" cards found in the UK... and most CCG cards. Smaller cards are typically half of a poker card, and are often referred to by sleeve companies as "mini American" (for half a 2.5x3.5" card) or "mini European" (for half a 63x89mm card). "Bridge" sized cards vary a bit more in size in my experience, at around 2.25x3.5" or 59-61x89-92mm. UK Waddington's cards are Bridge-sized, but they seem to be less common in commercial board games - probably because the card face has a slightly smaller area, so you can't fit so much stuff on.
25:22 the way to do this is to do both sides first and press then do the inbetween parts. Your method is too time consuming and also adds cumulative errors
That's more or less what I'm doing, just at the intersections between cards. The length of an A4 page is too long to reliably fold in from the ends without ending up with a curved fold, which is much worse than a slight misalignment at any given point because it makes it more likely the glue-up goes wrong. There's no cumulative error because I'm not creasing a continuous straight line - I'm pinching the crease *on the printed line* at several points along the page. If anything this should allow any errors to cancel out and reduce overall. The ideal way to do this is with a scoring tool along a straight-edge along the line, but most people don't have one so I left it out of the tutorial.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay I use the straight-edge that is buildt in my* rail cutter M+R 6132 0000 - it is also useful for cutting off paper on 90 degrees. it has lines and mm points. *) my gf bought it but I hijacked it. What I meant was that you start in the middle and i kinda "pinch" the two outer edges with fingernails, then use something flat to make the eventual V-line. Starting from the middle like in the video toward the outer edges can lead to two points that are not forming a 90 degree angle, because they end up on slightly different positions. Been there, done that. just my $2c.
00:01 Introduction
00:40 Method 1, The Easy One
10:15 Method 2, The Better One
19:43 Method 3, The Awesome One
21:14 Step 1, varnish
23:52 Step 2, fold
25:58 Step 3, Spray glue
28:22 Step 4, card stock
31:33 Step 5, cut
36:16 Step 6, corners
41:07 Step 7, test
41:30 Summary
Thanks for the video
THANK YOU!!
This channel is a hidden gem. thank you! I look forward to watching your other videos.
Fantastic information. Years upon years of experience and knowledge given to us for free. Thank you!
This video has helped me so much. I’ve been creating a card game for Graphics at uni and couldn’t have done it without these tutorials. Thank you!
19:43 - the awesome one
Literally the first google result I came across and it was perfect! Thank you so much
19:16 you can prevent this by pushing the sticker outer borders into the card itself.
Also pair up the faces of the cards and let the deck rest under some crushing weight for a week.
This merged both parts of each card and counters any possible warping.
The drawback is of course that you cannot play for a week.
My cards rest a least 1-2 nights under weight.
This is such a good tutorial. Thank you for being so specific and thorough
If you score the page VERY lightly with a ruler and knife, you can fold the page perfectly with little to no effort.
Or draw the fold line with a ballpoint pen and some firm pressure. It's a little easier than the light touch needed with a knife. Or use an actual scoring tool.
@@KeithJDavies I agree. I always use dried ballpoint pen for scoring.
@@babak_barati think a round (ultra dull by design) edge butter knife would work well?
I truly love watching your videos. I have been trying out different ideas that work but yours are simple and consistently better than I have found. Thanks.
Thank You so much for all of your videos. What a wealth of knowledge you've shared. You're an excellent teacher and I look forward to You making another batch of videos.
I've watched this video maybe three times, and I keep relearning useful things.
Awesome Video. Wow it captures so many needs in one go. Brilliant. =) I love that you give reason to every decision, tool, meterial, etc. It gives a very good perspective of what to expect from which method. This helped me with a costum Birthday gift for a Friend. SO> you basically made at least two People happy with one Video. Great Work
This is an excellent tutorial - especially as it's a UK-products-based one (apart from those darned Oregon corner croppers!)
I've always found the colours to be a bit "muted" on a linen finish paper and prefer a "presentation paper" (essential ~100 gsm single sided coated/photo paper - HP do a "high resolution" paper, Epson do a "photo quality ink jet" paper). What weight linen paper do you use - can you provide an example product. I ask this because when you add 2 x 100+ gsm paper stock to a 210 gsm card you have the potential to end up with a very thick playing card. So how does a deck of 52 cards compare in thickness to a stack of Waddington's or MTG cards? I use a Canford Black Paper core, which at 150 gsm gives me a card at about 360 gsm, and about the same thickness as commercial cards, but with not quite enough "snap" to riffle shuffle.
BTW, I find that lining up the fold by using a light box to align the card edges is a lot more straightforward and a lot less time consuming that the multiple pinch and crease method you show. However, my ~100 gsm presentation paper may be easier to see through than your linen finish (and of course it's dependent on having a clear printed edge to the card).
Hi Jave, thanks for such a great video. What about printing the cards in adhesive paper instead of using spray adhesive, then stick the adhesive paper to the cardstock?
Israel Lazo good idea
For method 2, would it benefit at all to spray the label paper with lacquer like in the 3rd method? Would give a nicer feel and/or make it last longer?
This is an outstanding tutorial. I confess I became quite inspired as the video progressed. Congratulations.
This is awesome info, and we'll presented. And let me tell ya, my wife is going to LOVE this new hobby /s.
But babe, think of the money I'm saving by not buying a new game, I'm just going to spend a bunch on new art supplies instead!
Well done... sunsbcribed. I been doing nearly the identical technique as your method #3, with one exception that you may wish to try. Instead of using 210gsm for the card's center, I use a 3mil lamination sheet (split into two 1.5mil sheets and each cut into 5.5" x 8.5" strips) for the cards center. Once glued and dried they give a nice snap to the cards when riffle shuffling. This mimics the plastic center used in commercial playing cards.
Really appreciate the detail you went into describing not only that it was 3 mil total, but split into the two 1.5 mil sides. Very much going to try this idea. I really haven't liked the idea of super thick decks of cards, and you can see his (with the note of using 210 gms at ruclips.net/video/WyMVRJu5yQ4/видео.html) looks rather thick for the full deck at ruclips.net/video/WyMVRJu5yQ4/видео.html are simply monstrous.
Thank youuuuu! I want to make a Hanafuda deck so that mini sleeves are just perfect!!!!!
Wow you really rock, really professional explanation the best by far !!! thanks so much for your definitive how to video. I love it !!!
The results seem amazing for the third method, but since I don't quite have a place to use the sprays, do you think that printing the cards in label paper would yield a good result? Have you tried it?
thank you so much for this tutorial. My family are big card players this will make for great holiday gifts
If I use glue, and a A4 paper 12:51, rather than a label paper, will it work?
18:54 Would spraying these cards with clear lacquer prevent peeling?
Great tutorial but I wonder how many layers of varnish in spray should I apply ? Is one innoth?
Fantastic tutorial! 👍👍👍
Fantastic tutorials. Thanks so much. I've been procrastinating with getting started but I'm now on it! All set out with my first deck (in Inkscape) and ready to get it printed on linen paper. Thanks.
Can you tell me what is that Sprinkler irrigation on your hand in 21:27 My english is too bad sorry~ thank you
It's a can of acrylic spray lacquer - a protective varnish that will stop the printer ink or toner from being damaged.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay THANK YOU > ///
Thanks for making these videos! they've been really really helpful! :)
Your tutorial is amazig, i'm particularly interested in the third method. It's more effort but i think i will love the result even more when i use it.
I have been looking on how to make a card as close to a real one as possible, at least the quality of a magic card. I am trying to make a set of a game that is no longer on the market that i want to play with my friends, and i already have some of the original cards and i don't want them to be distinguishable from one another. I know that will require a lot of trial and error, at least while dealing with the colours of the pictures.
What do you think about printing in card stock and laminating with laminating pouches? What is the closest method you have come by to make something perfect or almost perfect?
Matching a matching commercial playing card completely at home is always going to be a difficult prospect - you have to worry not just about the printing, but also the 'feel' of the card - how elastic it is, how stiff it is, etc. - and the thickness. Unless you can get hold of some of the stock that regular playing cards are made of an print directly on that, which will likely require a flat-feed printer that doesn't curve the paper through rollers as it prints, you're probably out of luck.
However! If you're willing to use sleeves, it becomes a lot easier a task. It'll still require some trial and error because the specific papers that you have available locally may well be different to the ones around here, but I've definitely had success matching the cards FFG used for Android: NetRunner to fill out some pre-built decks for friends. (I have a pretty extensive ANR collection, but not enough duplicates to build several decks at once!) Using opaque-backed sleeves means that you don't have to worry about the back face of the card, and have a little more leeway on the thickness; I found a particular combination of high-quality label paper and cardstock that left me with a card that - once sleeved - was pretty indistinguishable even in feel from an FFG card.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay First of, i'm amazed and grateful that you answered my comment so fast even when the video is 4 years old!
Reading your answer made me realize that i only want the cards to feel good and to not be able to be recognized by looking at the card backs (same colours and quality and type of glossiness). My approach at the moment when i wrote the original comment was from a perfectionist angle, which I now know is not really that necessary.
Sadly this cards have such an unconventional measure (60x112.5mm) that the only sleeves i have found to "fit" are pretty rare, at least in my country, and these are transparent . Leaving that aside, you have encouraged me to try and test things instead of looking everywhere in the internet for the perfect method to achieve the result on the first try.
Thank you!
Thanks for this video! I wonder though why for method one you don't just print double-sided on thicker paper? ;) I made some cards recently by printing double-sided on 160 (or 180, don't remember) mg paper, and they're thick enough to play with and my inkjet printer can still handle printing that paper double-sided. Another possibility to make them a little thicker would probably to laminate them and then slide them inside the sleeves (though that's a bit much, I guess).
Printing double-sided rarely works well because almost all printers have slight (or significant) registration issues. That is, even though you get content on both sides of the page, the won't line up perfectly. Even the really good printers I've used can be 1/32" (about 2 points, or a little less than a millimetre) misaligned. Less good printers can be misaligned even more.
The number 3 is what i am doing now BUT, the problem is, when i apply the Clear Varnish for Acrylic Gloss, seems like the paper DRINKS it and there is barely any gloss to it and just a little better feel to the touch. Overall, for all the works and the COST (thick paper cardstock (not linen because it's even more expansive) in my case instead of folding it on a cardstock, plus the spray glue, plus the Varnish that i need to apply quite a bit to see a good difference, the cost of producing those cards, and the working time, is almost equal to send my projects to a local printer that will print my cards professionnaly on cardstock 350 gsm glossy with perfect print. So it is not cost efficient, not time efficient, and quality is still way lower than what my local printer shop can do (not as good as REAL playing card but still quite satisfying).
If you *have* a local printer who can do professional card printing with a good turnaround, then that's absolutely the best option!
But it's not an possibility for a lot of people - around here, for example, the only local printers who take short-run jobs only do booklets, flyers and binding, so I'd have to rely on online POD places which are typically an order of magnitude more expensive than the process presented in the video and have a much, much slower turnaround.
29:25 I tried this for a few hundred times now and it looks great if it works but half the time it doesn’t work.
The reason is that front and back while aligned will slip a mm. This looks small but on a card it looks like a misprint.
Man everything I need in one channel I love u dude !!!!!
Could you list the material you used for each method? Especially the last one, of course. You printed the cards on a normal A4 paper? And which sprays you used?
For the first method, I printed on regular 80gsm copier paper; it doesn't matter so much what you use if you're just going to be sleeving the result alongside a regular playing card, so just use a paper that holds an image well - if anything you specifically don't want anything too thick or it'll make the whole sleeved card pretty thick!
For the second method, I used regular full-sheet labels - probably from Staples or Rymans, the kind you might print shipping labels on. Generally this is good enough if your card designs have a coloured or patterned background - but you can get high-quality labels that block the card face from showing through if you're printing cards with predominantly white backgrounds, or if you just want a higher-quality image.
For the third method, I used 210gsm cardstock ('art card' from Rymans in the UK) for the core, and a 90gsm linen paper for the outer layer (Zanders Zeta - it has a watermark, but you can't see it once the card is glued together). The linen texture helps prevent there being too much friction between one card and the next, and feels nicer to the touch. There's nothing wrong with using a smooth paper if you prefer for this method, of course - but it's worth using a high-quality paper that prints an image well, since you're putting so much effort into the rest of the card!
For spray glue I tend to stick to 3M glues; they're more expensive than a lot of competitors, but reliably high-quality. If you want to be absolutely sure that the glue sticks you could use Super77, but I find that "Craft Mount" and "Photo Mount" are just as good for playing cards and cheaper per can. Just make sure that you buy 'permanent' as opposed to 'repositionable', and be careful of what kind of glue you get. Some spray glues (like the 3M products I use) spray a fine mist of glue that coats a thin layer on your paper; other types of spray glue spray out a thick liquid that foams in place and makes a mess. You can generally avoid the latter kind by not buying anything that says it's good for sticking carpets down.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay So once you're done glueing all the sides on 210gms cardstock with 90gms linen paper, you have cards with aprox. 390gms. Is that too much or is it perfectly balanced?
@@DiningTablePrintPlay I've read all the comments as far as this one, looking for this comment. Great info, should be pinned!
Excellent. Really helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, this is awesome! Would it be at all useful to spray lacquer the sticker cards (method 2)? Would that help them from fading/smudging with use?
It can be! I didn't for this demo because I wanted to show it as a pretty easy method that doesn't require any extra bits and pieces, but spray-lacquering your printing will generally make it more resilient whichever method you use. It's always worth testing the particular spray you're using out on a non-essential print on similar paper first, just to be sure.
First of all thank you, then again, can you use hairspray to seal the cards?
I know some people in the kit modelling world do this, but my understanding is that hairspray isn't really all that resilient compared to acrylic, so on something like cards that gets handled a lot I'd expect it to wear away more easily. But I've not tried it, so I could well be wrong!
@@DiningTablePrintPlay Thank you very much. Any particular product you recommend to use?
35:57 tops don’t align on each project. For example Raid on Averland, so verify first before jumping in .
Can we get a list of the tools you use for the high quality cards?
SO HELPFUL! Thank you!!!
Thanks for sharing Jake! Those cards look absolutely fantastic. Have you considered a short tutorial on how to turn a standard 9-card PDF into your 4-card front/back template? I assume this is something that can easily be done using free software such as GIMP, but with the amount of experience you have I'd have to image you have it down to a science!
Keep up the videos, I very much enjoy this series!
In Adobe Illustrator you can import a PDF page, then apply a 'mask' on the image to hide part of it, like cropping it.
I think this is his tutorial on that - it has the same logo ruclips.net/video/n_8q4V3TAzc/видео.html
Thank you for your awesome videos! Do you have any experiences with card stock with 300gsm? I have problems to get those 210gsm card stock sheets, so I investigate for an alternative strength.
What kind of linen paper are you using for the last way... most Linen paper is very textured, so I can't imagine it'd be very good to use because of the bumpiness/thickness it adds?
Thank you:) this is perfect for the project I will be working on. What a brilliant way to use a deck of cards in this way! Thank you for sharing:)
do you have any videos talking about the type or brand of printers to use for all the different print and play functions? stickers cards boxes etc. . .
Is it really only one wet-on-wet layers of laquer? (awesome video)
Yep - you can do more if you like, but that's all I've ever felt necessary. In the case of inkjet prints it just needs to stop moisture and handling from smudging the ink, and in the case of laser prints one coat is already enough to firmly fix the toner in place.
great video and nice to watch, and well explained.
34:00 this is suboptimal. Rotary cutter as you call it does this just as well but ten times faster. You need to refine each card later anyway.
Which cardstock you use for making good quality playing cards ? 🙏🙏🙏
Awesome video! Mind telling us what weight of linen paper did you use for the 3rd method? Thanks :)
The linen paper I use is 100gsm Zanders Zeta.
Hi. Thanks for this tutorial! I am feeling more confident to try this BUT I downloaded Inkscape and I can't locate an SVG template. Ideas?
This video is great!
Thank you so much 😁
Interested to know what game the cards were for in the last method?
It's a game called Machination, from a design contest on BGG years ago, by the user Londonien/Simon McGregor. My wife and I did a redesign (she the illustrations, me the graphic design) for a PnP Secret Santa a few years back, and that's what those cards are. Unfortunately I don't think Simon ever actually created a game entry in the BGG database for his game.
36:40 I associate bypass with heart failures. It’s called a rounder cutter and what you’re holding there is the worst of its kind. I tried two of these one was more like a corner mutilator, the other was okay. But what you really need is the one Amazon sells as kotodama 3 cm 5cm 10cm rounder cutter. Costs $10 and if you make expansions to existing board games the 3mm is the one you want.
It's a "bypass cutter" because the blades pass each other by - as opposed to an "anvil cutter" where one blade descends onto a receiving surface. But yes, the example in this video is indeed spectacularly rubbish! It's the most common kind of thing people get sold if they go into a art and craft shop and ask for a corner rounder, unfortunately, so it's worth mentioning just to point out the problems.
If you mean the "Kadomaru Pro", it is indeed much better than the one in the video, but it takes forever to get delivered and I didn't have mine at the point I shot this video. I still prefer the Oregon Lam cutter at 38:45, but that's not only just as hard to get hold of over here in the UK, it's much more expensive!
@@DiningTablePrintPlay yeah. People that just discovered print and play rounder cutter, google it and get sold crap.
There is actually 1 (!) good bypass variant that is good and only $3 but the trouble is finding it. There is a video that compares all of those in great detail and after that I got a good one. But still - you don't want 5cm corners off every card version. You want 2 or 3 like professional products do.
I don't remember any shipping delays from japan but that was over a year ago. Things were different then.
The heavy duty cutters are outside my budget but they do seem they last forever. However they are for big things like boards.
If you want to round off chits or small stuff you need other tools.
Very helpful, thank you!
Great video! Do you have a template for Method 1? I presume it's just done in a Microsoft Word doc? Thanks :)
The first method can work even better if you change the following:
- Get "standard size" TCG sleeves (here in Germany they cost between 5€ for a pack of 80 and 10€ for a pack of 100, depending on quality)
- Get a bunch of old crappy Pokémon or Magic The Gathering cards (any other TCG that uses standard size works good as well). You can either find bulks of them online or if you go to a TCG store you can get a stack of them for very cheap or maybe (if you ask some of the players) even for free
- use the Pokémon or MTG cards as the backing and put them into the sleeves with the print-out, the prints will fit much nicer inside
This method gives you the advantage of having cards in *proper* sleeves which makes shuffling work like a charm. (Trust me. I play a lot of TCGs so I shuffle a lot and every time I have to shuffle cards without sleeves it's a nightmare. If you want really good quality sleeves get Dragon Shields, [10€ for 100] KMCs [6€ I believe for 100] or Ultimate Guard's Katana [10€ for 100] or Coretex [8€ for 100]) Also in my experience it usually looks a lot better than the smaller sleeves since the prints don't get as smushed.
Edit: I added the prices of the sleeves that I pay at my local TCG store, so you have an idea of pricing.
Such a great video
For the last method, is it okay if i print on the card stock directly? what would be the disadvantages of that?
You can, but if you're planning to fold the cardstock over to glue two halves together instead of folding a bit of paper around some cardstock, you'll end up with a card that's nearly twice as thick as the result shown. That's the main disadvantage - home-made cards are already thicker than commercially-printed cards!
If you plan instead to just print double-sided, then you'll probably find that your printer doesn't line up the two sides very well - it's not something most domestic printers are really capable of doing to nearer than 10mm or so, and often you'll find there's a slight rotation as the paper gets picked up unevenly that means the two sides don't even get printed at the same angle. Also a single layer of cardstock won't have so much elastic 'spring' as a glued-together sandwich - the lamination actually adds a fair amount of elasticity.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay what if i use a lamination sheet instead of the card stock in between? which will feel better?
@@Didomah I've not had much luck myself using lamination sheets, the ones I've tried have left the cards pretty floppy - I prefer my playing cards more stiff. That said, there's several different kinds of and thicknesses of lamination sheet, so it's really a matter of trial and error - try what you have and see if you like the result! I know a couple of people in the Print and Play Gaming Facebook group swear by lamination sheets. One proponent, Rachel Bruner, explains her method in this video: ruclips.net/video/DgNJmAkO1_M/видео.html - I think she says she's using 5 mil sheets, which is the US equivalent of 125 micron.
@@Didomah Personally I've not had much luck with lamination sheets - when I tried it, the cards came out pretty floppy, which I'm not fond of. That said, there's many different kinds of and thicknesses of lamination sheets, so really it's trial and error - try what you have, and see if you like it.
I know several members of the Print and Play Gaming Facebook group use lamination sheets as the core of their playing cards, so it's obviously to some people's taste! One proponent, Rachel Bruner, has a good video on her method here: ruclips.net/video/DgNJmAkO1_M/видео.html - I think she says she uses 5mil sheets, which is the US equivalent of 125micron.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay great! thank you very much!
What is the tool he use to make the corner of the card look round?
What kind of linen paper do you use? I am struggling to find any type here in Greece and i cannot...
Awesome job, ty for this guide. Can you tell the name of the cards on minute 25? Ty mate
Awesome video! I've done a number of print and plays, but learned a lot from this video. P.S. Looks like we have the same pencil - a GraphGear 1000?
Glad to have helped - and yes, it is indeed a Graphgear 1000! I went through dozens of cheapo mechanical pencils before I got it, and kept leaving them places and losing them. Having one that's actually quite decent seems to have broken the habit and I haven't lost it once. ;-)
Hey could you laminate instead using spray glue in method 3?
What are the products you use for method number 3?
On a scale of 1-10 how important it the lacquer finish on ink jet cards?
Can PVA be used instead of spray glue?
I followed the steps at method 3, but didn't use the mold because it would take work putting covers and regular cards one at a time... How naïve I was! This would have made the gluing part much more simpler than how it was.
But no matter! It is all experience, after all. Your mold seems to work to any shape of card, as long as they are all regular on the page, which will help me make chinese cards/Hanafuda if I want to try a different project. Even then, this video helped me make a personalized gift for my mother :)
Is there a way to change the sizes of the card template for the 3ed method? Or do you have any tips for making a template?
You have a very steady hand! Thanks for showing these techniques in such detail. Out of curiosity, which games were you assembling?
Love the video, was wanting to make some cards for a gift and this is definitely the best how to video I've seen.
1 Question: Where do you get your card template for method 2? Do you use a certain program? Any help would be great thanks.
Yo, thank you so much for having a .ai template. It was a huge help.
Can you replace the spray with anything else? Also, could you just print double sided?
Hi, do you have a template for the second method at 90% of the playing card face? Thanks in advance
Could you use hairspray as a lacker?
I know some people in the kit modelling world do this, but my understanding is that hairspray isn't really all that resilient compared to acrylic, so on something like cards that gets handled a lot I'd expect it to wear away more easily. But I've not tried it, so I could well be wrong!
@@DiningTablePrintPlay thank you so much, any particular product you recommend?
Rather than rolling it around and folding for the third method, why not just score the line to fold it on?
Perfectionism, really - I tend to find that scoring often isn't quite so accurate, but don't let me stop you doing whatever works for you!
Idk if this has already been asked but what weight linen paper do you use for the last method? I see like 24lbs and 32lbs, etc. online. I really find your videos helpful! Following your video for the stitch bound rule book turned out great! Thanks!
I'm afraid here in the UK all paper is sold in gsm weights, so I'm not sure for certain what the corresponding lbs weights are since US paper uses some confusing system of four or five different classes of paper!
I use 100gsm linen paper (apparently equivalent to 27lb Bond, according to the Internet) for cards like the ones in the third method here; specifically the Zeta line, which is made by Reflex in Germany*. However, paper weight isn't the only relevant factor, and this 100gsm linen is as thin and flexible as most 80gsm copier paper. I've used other linen paper in the past which was 90gsm but stiffer and harder to work with.
* If you try and find this particular brand: the box I have is branded "Zanders Zeta", which might make one assume it's made by the Zanders paper company... which shut down in 2021 due to a dramatic drop in demand through the pandemic. However, news articles around the time note that the Zeta line is made by Reflex, and the box I have also notes that it's made by Reflex; looking around today I don't find reference to "Zanders Zeta" but "Zeta by Reflex", so maybe they licensed the name and have re-branded since Zanders went under or something.
This is awesome info, thanks!
Glad to hear I’m not the only one that finds the US system confusing!
Hey, thanks for the tutorial! Which corner cutter/rounder size do you use?
3mm
Louis Cubillas I got one of these cutters for Christmas. However, aren’t standard cards 6mm? Seems pretty small.
19:43 is the awesome one
Hello Jake,
I have about 20 cards to make, what would you recommend as a cheap way to round the corners ?
Thanks and awesome video !
Hey thanks for the reply ! I was thinking about the knife and using something round to cut them, but was worried about the result. That said they do not need to be perfect and it doesn't matter if they are not all the exact same (it's not for playing).
Thanks for the tutorials I'll try that as soon as I can :)
I love these videos and have been very insightful, but it kills me that your timestamps in the descriptions NEVER work.
That's because RUclips has stripped them all out! They were fine when they were first written in, but at some point over the last year or so it seems RUclips had a period of not wanting people to link to particular points in video - I didn't find the timestamp option on the share button during that period either. It seems to be back, but the timestamps from the links in the description are gone. I need to spend some time (hah) going through all the videos, working out what they should be and putting them back.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay RUclips's timestamp system now works by just merely typing in the time of the video in a two-digit, colon-as-separator manner, like how you would normally write the time, just in case you haven't figured it out (I assume you have done so though).
Hey there! Your "awesome" cards look really great! Do you guys ever do any paid work making cards? I'd love to discuss if you're interested. Hope to hear from you soon! NL
Been looking into making my own playing cards, Would White linen card stock rather than paper work still?
If you fold a sheet of linen card back on itself following the third method in this video you'll have super-thick cards! It's also harder to fold cleanly as it's quite stiff.
Some people have success with one page of linen card and one page of linen paper back-to-back, for which you'll ideally want to print cards in a 3x3, faces-on-one-sheet, backs-on-another layout and line them up on a light box or against a bright window. One tip for this is to trim a bit off the long side of the paper and use some masking tape to stick the paper down to the back of the cards once lined up, so you can open along the tape fold, apply glue, then fold back into place still lined up. (This is a bit easier with US 'letter' paper than international A4 paper, as the page is wider; it's preferable to hinge the longer side as it reduces the maximum distance from the fold, which reduces error, but it'll work with a short-edge hinge if you don't have space on the long edge.)
In theory you can print on both sides of the linen card, but it's hard to get double-sided printing to line up properly with a home printer, and one of the benefits of gluing multiple sheets together is that the lamination gives the card a bit more of an elastic spring.
Ignorant question but in method three where you a line the front and back of the cards is the black card stock core "construction paper"? Or is it specially called "card stock"?
Use cardstock. It's different than regular construction paper because it's thicker, and most scrapbookers (like myself) use them. You can find them at Joann's fabrics, Michael's Craft store or any scrapbook store around. A smidge more expensive per sheet or tablet, but it's worth it.
You can get 110# black index at Walmart for $3.99 and it is the same stuff sold at the crafting stores for around $15.
Quality content here
superb - why did you stop making videos? 😢
The simple answer is that I don't have anywhere near as much free time as I used to before our son was born! I do have a queue of things I'd like to do videos about but it's still probably going to be a little while before they get covered.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay Can't argue with that! Your videos are pure gold though. Zero ego and tons of knowledge. Thanks so much.
Does the linen paper you use have a watermark? It seems almost all linen paper has some kind of watermark, and I'm thinking it would be an issue if it landed on the back of the cards. If anyone has a recommendation for watermark-free linen paper in the US, please respond.
After more research, I found comments on the boardgamegeek web site that state the watermark won't show since the paper is glued to cardstock (so light won't show through). Here is a link to Jake's comment on the subject: boardgamegeek.com/article/14671370#14671370
Hi. Is there a template that can be used in Photoshop?
what template are you using to get the card guides ?
Why you don't use a folding tool in method 3? (It is called "Falzbein" in German. I think there is no specific English word for that but you'll find the tool on the internet with that keyword ;-)
In english - it is call a bone folder.... :)
Does the linen paper have a texture to it? or is it smooth?
It's textured to have a surface like that of linen, rather than being made with linen. The benefit for playing cards is that it reduces friction between one card and the next - if you use plain paper the cards are harder to overhand shuffle.
awesome. thank you so so much!
29:30 don’t use hand use liner
But can they fan?
i got problems with card sleeves where or what are the names of the sizes
There are a large number of sizes, so really it depends on how big your cards are! The two common card sizes that you'll find in a lot of board games (and PnP titles) are called "Poker" and "Bridge" size.
"Poker" sized cards vary around 2.5x3.5" or 62-63x88-89mm, depending on the manufacturer (for example, Magic: The Gathering cards are in millimetres because they were originally manufactured by a European company) - and you'll find most PnP files come in some poker size. If you look for "standard" sleeves that fit common CCGs like Magic, these will fit poker-sized PnP cards fine. If you're sleeving card fronts alongside a regular playing card, American "Bicycle" cards are poker-sized, as are "Royal Flush" cards found in the UK... and most CCG cards. Smaller cards are typically half of a poker card, and are often referred to by sleeve companies as "mini American" (for half a 2.5x3.5" card) or "mini European" (for half a 63x89mm card).
"Bridge" sized cards vary a bit more in size in my experience, at around 2.25x3.5" or 59-61x89-92mm. UK Waddington's cards are Bridge-sized, but they seem to be less common in commercial board games - probably because the card face has a slightly smaller area, so you can't fit so much stuff on.
you are awsome, ty for sharing your knowledge on this stuff ^^
where can i find a template to print on
There's a link in the description
25:22 the way to do this is to do both sides first and press then do the inbetween parts. Your method is too time consuming and also adds cumulative errors
That's more or less what I'm doing, just at the intersections between cards. The length of an A4 page is too long to reliably fold in from the ends without ending up with a curved fold, which is much worse than a slight misalignment at any given point because it makes it more likely the glue-up goes wrong.
There's no cumulative error because I'm not creasing a continuous straight line - I'm pinching the crease *on the printed line* at several points along the page. If anything this should allow any errors to cancel out and reduce overall.
The ideal way to do this is with a scoring tool along a straight-edge along the line, but most people don't have one so I left it out of the tutorial.
@@DiningTablePrintPlay I use the straight-edge that is buildt in my* rail cutter M+R 6132 0000 - it is also useful for cutting off paper on 90 degrees. it has lines and mm points. *) my gf bought it but I hijacked it.
What I meant was that you start in the middle and i kinda "pinch" the two outer edges with fingernails, then use something flat to make the eventual V-line.
Starting from the middle like in the video toward the outer edges can lead to two points that are not forming a 90 degree angle, because they end up on slightly different positions. Been there, done that. just my $2c.