Jake, thank you so much for the care you put into making this video. It is an excellent example of how to make a really useful teaching video. Clarity and concision in your explanations, sharp and right-to-the-point filming - thanks so much. I'm sure that this is going to spare me hours of frustrating work.
Thank you for this video, you show some great versatile techniques and I have used most of those at one time or another. For the nicest, laziest to make and most durable tokens I have recently turned to 3D printing. That allows me to design the tokens based on my stickers and have a recessed area on the token of the exact size of the sticker. The raised rims protect the edges of the label too, so there is no chance for the edges to ever catch on anything and start peeling off.
I've made some nice tokens using 1" steel washers and rubber cement gluing fronts and backs to them. i used a 1" hold punch to get the pictures perfect.
Almost nobody does know it but you can just as easily use a cereal box for gluing tokens. Glue each token back to back and there you go Tactile perfection in weight and stiffness.
Hi! Do you know if there on the market same kind of circular "coin puncher" you used on the video but with square shape? Any advise where to buy a good corner rounder tool? Thanks!
Those are from a game called "DarkStar", by Klaude Thomas: www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110730/darkstar One of my favourite PnP games, but unfortunately not widely available - I believe the files are only available through Print and Play Productions: www.printplaygames.com/product/darkstar-print-play-files (I got them from the Kickstarter campaign Klaude and P&PP ran five years or so ago, where they were one-third that price!)
You mention at the start (0:40) that you have previously covered spraying the tokens with glossy lacquer. Unfortunately you don't say when or in which video.
03:14 That ruler is dangerous for cutting. You do a mistake, the blade jumps it over, your cut the tip of your finger. Use a ruler that has a "wall" on one side, that is the sufficient guide.
I'm pretty sure they came from SpielMaterial.de - probably these ones: www.spielematerial.de/en/game-pieces/rectangulars/wall-cuboid-settlers-catan.html
Penso che il suo inglese e' meglio di mio Italiano! In inglese lo si chiama un "arch punch" o "wad punch"; in Italiano e' una "fustella", ma non so un nome piu' specifico. C'e' due tipi maggiore di fustelle per cuoio; questo tipo (www.amazon.it/qipuneky-Strumento-Strumenti-Cinturino-Orologio/dp/B08RDF3Y4H/) non e' buono per fare token per giochi, perche' il token va dentro la fustella e' diventa danneggiato. Questo tipo (www.amazon.it/Fustella-martello-pelle-Attrezzo-calzolai/dp/B0742GBYHF/) e' meglio perche' la corsa e' piu' aperto e diritto. Anzi quest'esempio e' molto caro. C'e' anche questo tipo: (www.amazon.it/strumento-artigianale-arc-shaped-Leather-Cuttting/dp/B07H4RLWGF) ma si deve fare due colpi per token! In english it's called an "arch punch" or a "wad punch", in Italian it's a "fustella", but I don't know a more specific name. There are two main types of punch for leather; the first type in English is a "hollow punch" and it's not good for making game tokens as the token gets damaged as it travels through the punch. The second type is an "arch punch" which is better because the path the token takes is more open and straighter. The link above is an expensive one, though. You can also get the third type (semicircle cutters) but for a round token you have to line up two hits!
Your videos are excellent, and I have learned a lot from you. I am trying to find the video where you talk about a circle cutter and could have sworn it was this video, but I scanned this video and can't find it. If you can help me I'd be grateful. (And if you have a specific product recommendation I'd be even more grateful. I tried Fiskars and was pretty disappointed.)
I'm pretty sure I got them from SpielMaterial, a German site that sells board game parts relatively reasonably throughout Europe: www.spielematerial.de/en/game-components/game-pieces/rectangulars/stadtmauer.html I'm sure there are other suppliers around the world, although the only other one I know of off the top of my head is Print and Play Productions in the US: www.printplaygames.com/product/21-x-21-x-4-mm-wood-blocks Of course, you could also try to find an old second-hand copy of Scrabble with wooden tiles and paint them whichever colours you need - although scrabble tiles are annoyingly not _quite_ square.
Hi Jake, i have a question about that punching tool you use to cut out the tokens. I bought the same thing but i am having trouble punching the tokens out. It seems that the tool is way too blunt to be able to cut through thicker paper. Did you sharpen the tool prior use? Am banging the hammer as hard as i can but with little effect :P...
Yes i was banging it on a wood table, i will try a more solid surface. I believe the tool will surely need sharpening, I was thinking about using a small diamond file, but i don't think it will be as efficient as credit-card sized stone. I guess i will try to find the stone somewhere online to buy, than give it another shot on a harder surface. I stick my tokens on a hard cardboard type that is used in bookmaking for the binder (covers), the same cardboard type i use for the board itself. I stick the prints on the hard cardboard than i cut them, it eliminates the need to buy the little tokens to stick them on. Its fine when i cut them squared, but i tried to make the rounded ones using the technique and the tool you demonstrated here. Tips and tricks you are showing in the videos are great, you can really pick up a few good ideas. keep up the good work! greetings from croatia
The wooden counters are for DarkStar, one of my all-time favourite print and play games! www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110730/darkstar It's a very thinky space combat-and-empire-expansion kind of game.
They're all from existing games. The first ones, the single-sided hexagonal ones cut out of card, are from "The Dice Must Flow", a Dune-themed dice game by Heiko Gunther, based in turn on Felbrigg Herriot's Dune Express: www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/173486/dune-dice-game The two-sided common-fold-line tokens (used for both round-token options) are from Broomstick Monkey's "Imperial Harvest": www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/166767/imperial-harvest The fancy wooden tokens are from Klaude Thomas' "DarkStar": www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110730/darkstar
5:20 I just used a pair of good scissors. Using normal paper, 6 layers does the trick. The most time consuming part is waiting for the glue to dry. No video needed for this.
AAAArgh Using a metal punch on concrete is an abomination. At least, if You don't have a sturdy workbench underneath, put a heavy plank of wood. That won't damage Your punch when ( not "if" ) You will strike with too much force and pass the poor mat. If You choose Your wood carefully (es.poplar) You don't need an old cutting mat at all....
The issue there is that the biggest problem most people will have with using an arch punch is bounce, and a layer of wood - particularly into the side of the grain, which is the only option most people will have - is far more likely to bounce on a hard surface than a cutting mat, because unlike the mat it won't conform to the surface and/or any grit etc. underneath it. Most workbenches doubly so unless they have a specific construction and you work directly over the leg! It really takes far, far more force to cut through the mat than the card, it's not a real risk for the majority of people. I've been using the setup in the video for years and while the surface is pretty chewed up it's never so much as gone through the central layer of the mat. On the other hand, if you have the kind of expensive high-quality arch punches where you're going to worry about this then you likely also have a good end-grain surface to hit against and a good enough understanding of the tool and the risk to not need this video in the first place.
This channel is a wealth of information, I wish I had found it earlier.
"And then we wait for the cat to go past," most important step. thanks for sharing, these are great!
I don't have a cat. What should I do? :O
Or glue the cat in advance.
Jake, thank you so much for the care you put into making this video. It is an excellent example of how to make a really useful teaching video. Clarity and concision in your explanations, sharp and right-to-the-point filming - thanks so much. I'm sure that this is going to spare me hours of frustrating work.
Your video is the greatest! This is the most clear, understandable and detailed one. Greetings from russian board gamers!
indeed
This channel is a hidden gem! So glad I got it recommended! Thank you so much for all your knowledge
Thank you for this video, you show some great versatile techniques and I have used most of those at one time or another.
For the nicest, laziest to make and most durable tokens I have recently turned to 3D printing. That allows me to design the tokens based on my stickers and have a recessed area on the token of the exact size of the sticker. The raised rims protect the edges of the label too, so there is no chance for the edges to ever catch on anything and start peeling off.
I've made some nice tokens using 1" steel washers and rubber cement gluing fronts and backs to them. i used a 1" hold punch to get the pictures perfect.
Thank you good sir for your most enlightening video, greetings from Argentina :)
Excellent video, sir. Thank you!
Thank you for this video 🤩
Where did you get the sexy red wooden tokens from? Thanks for the vid!
Hi ! do you have a tips for fix a token over a playboard please ?
Almost nobody does know it but you can just as easily use a cereal box for gluing tokens.
Glue each token back to back and there you go
Tactile perfection in weight and stiffness.
Works fine but you need decently thick paper so the design on the box doesn't show through.
where do you get the wood pieces?
This is gold! thank you sir
Which carda you using?
What thickness of cardboard to use? I'm thinking about a thickness of 1 or 2 mm.
Hi! Do you know if there on the market same kind of circular "coin puncher" you used on the video but with square shape? Any advise where to buy a good corner rounder tool? Thanks!
Whats the name of that thick paper
These are awesome! What are the tokens at 41:41 from?
Those are from a game called "DarkStar", by Klaude Thomas:
www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110730/darkstar
One of my favourite PnP games, but unfortunately not widely available - I believe the files are only available through Print and Play Productions:
www.printplaygames.com/product/darkstar-print-play-files
(I got them from the Kickstarter campaign Klaude and P&PP ran five years or so ago, where they were one-third that price!)
You mention at the start (0:40) that you have previously covered spraying the tokens with glossy lacquer. Unfortunately you don't say when or in which video.
Thank you!
I have the same question but I don't see the response here. Please advise what product was used. Thanks!
03:14 That ruler is dangerous for cutting. You do a mistake, the blade jumps it over, your cut the tip of your finger. Use a ruler that has a "wall" on one side, that is the sufficient guide.
Hey, those tokens for darkstar. Would you pint me where you got those blocks? Cant find any on the web.
I'm pretty sure they came from SpielMaterial.de - probably these ones: www.spielematerial.de/en/game-pieces/rectangulars/wall-cuboid-settlers-catan.html
sir what kind of board did you use?
hello, forgive the writing, I'm Italian, can you tell me what the tool for cutting coins is called? a link would also be appreciated. thank you
Penso che il suo inglese e' meglio di mio Italiano!
In inglese lo si chiama un "arch punch" o "wad punch"; in Italiano e' una "fustella", ma non so un nome piu' specifico. C'e' due tipi maggiore di fustelle per cuoio; questo tipo (www.amazon.it/qipuneky-Strumento-Strumenti-Cinturino-Orologio/dp/B08RDF3Y4H/) non e' buono per fare token per giochi, perche' il token va dentro la fustella e' diventa danneggiato. Questo tipo (www.amazon.it/Fustella-martello-pelle-Attrezzo-calzolai/dp/B0742GBYHF/) e' meglio perche' la corsa e' piu' aperto e diritto. Anzi quest'esempio e' molto caro. C'e' anche questo tipo: (www.amazon.it/strumento-artigianale-arc-shaped-Leather-Cuttting/dp/B07H4RLWGF) ma si deve fare due colpi per token!
In english it's called an "arch punch" or a "wad punch", in Italian it's a "fustella", but I don't know a more specific name. There are two main types of punch for leather; the first type in English is a "hollow punch" and it's not good for making game tokens as the token gets damaged as it travels through the punch. The second type is an "arch punch" which is better because the path the token takes is more open and straighter. The link above is an expensive one, though. You can also get the third type (semicircle cutters) but for a round token you have to line up two hits!
Your videos are excellent, and I have learned a lot from you.
I am trying to find the video where you talk about a circle cutter and could have sworn it was this video, but I scanned this video and can't find it. If you can help me I'd be grateful. (And if you have a specific product recommendation I'd be even more grateful. I tried Fiskars and was pretty disappointed.)
Hello. Nice video. Where did you get those wooden counters?
I'm pretty sure I got them from SpielMaterial, a German site that sells board game parts relatively reasonably throughout Europe:
www.spielematerial.de/en/game-components/game-pieces/rectangulars/stadtmauer.html
I'm sure there are other suppliers around the world, although the only other one I know of off the top of my head is Print and Play Productions in the US:
www.printplaygames.com/product/21-x-21-x-4-mm-wood-blocks
Of course, you could also try to find an old second-hand copy of Scrabble with wooden tiles and paint them whichever colours you need - although scrabble tiles are annoyingly not _quite_ square.
you have tiles de arcadia quest?
Nice thks
what is the name of this metal tool for cutting coins?
Often called a gasket cutter or just a circle punch.
Hi Jake, i have a question about that punching tool you use to cut out the tokens. I bought the same thing but i am having trouble punching the tokens out. It seems that the tool is way too blunt to be able to cut through thicker paper. Did you sharpen the tool prior use? Am banging the hammer as hard as i can but with little effect :P...
Yes i was banging it on a wood table, i will try a more solid surface. I believe the tool will surely need sharpening, I was thinking about using a small diamond file, but i don't think it will be as efficient as credit-card sized stone. I guess i will try to find the stone somewhere online to buy, than give it another shot on a harder surface.
I stick my tokens on a hard cardboard type that is used in bookmaking for the binder (covers), the same cardboard type i use for the board itself. I stick the prints on the hard cardboard than i cut them, it eliminates the need to buy the little tokens to stick them on. Its fine when i cut them squared, but i tried to make the rounded ones using the technique and the tool you demonstrated here.
Tips and tricks you are showing in the videos are great, you can really pick up a few good ideas. keep up the good work! greetings from croatia
Gasket cutters, the tool shown, need to be sharpened with a file, stone, or grinder
Hey Jake! This was a great video! Have you tried just using a glue gun to make tokens? Not sure whether that'll work or not.
buen video gracias
Thanks for the video. What is tha name of the game you've stuck on the wooden counters?
The wooden counters are for DarkStar, one of my all-time favourite print and play games!
www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110730/darkstar
It's a very thinky space combat-and-empire-expansion kind of game.
Thanks a lot, I'll definitely check that out!
You should try using that stuff you print on and then put it in the oven and it shrinks and goes hard and thick
Do these tokens actually go to an existing game or are they made up?
They're all from existing games.
The first ones, the single-sided hexagonal ones cut out of card, are from "The Dice Must Flow", a Dune-themed dice game by Heiko Gunther, based in turn on Felbrigg Herriot's Dune Express: www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/173486/dune-dice-game
The two-sided common-fold-line tokens (used for both round-token options) are from Broomstick Monkey's "Imperial Harvest": www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/166767/imperial-harvest
The fancy wooden tokens are from Klaude Thomas' "DarkStar": www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110730/darkstar
Dining Table Print & Play wow, thanks. I'll have to check those out then
Dining Table Print & Play where did you get the print outs? And do you know where I could find some for Forbidden Desert?
7:40 no don’t ever do that. If a side slides your whole row has failed. Only consider it when the print has bleeds.
Отличное видео!
Wow
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodprix.
👏👏👏👏
I was using woodprix instructions to make it and I did it already :)
5:20 I just used a pair of good scissors. Using normal paper, 6 layers does the trick. The most time consuming part is waiting for the glue to dry. No video needed for this.
AAAArgh Using a metal punch on concrete is an abomination. At least, if You don't have a sturdy workbench underneath, put a heavy plank of wood. That won't damage Your punch when ( not "if" ) You will strike with too much force and pass the poor mat. If You choose Your wood carefully (es.poplar) You don't need an old cutting mat at all....
The issue there is that the biggest problem most people will have with using an arch punch is bounce, and a layer of wood - particularly into the side of the grain, which is the only option most people will have - is far more likely to bounce on a hard surface than a cutting mat, because unlike the mat it won't conform to the surface and/or any grit etc. underneath it. Most workbenches doubly so unless they have a specific construction and you work directly over the leg! It really takes far, far more force to cut through the mat than the card, it's not a real risk for the majority of people. I've been using the setup in the video for years and while the surface is pretty chewed up it's never so much as gone through the central layer of the mat.
On the other hand, if you have the kind of expensive high-quality arch punches where you're going to worry about this then you likely also have a good end-grain surface to hit against and a good enough understanding of the tool and the risk to not need this video in the first place.
Teachers how to make a game
Check out GDC on youtube. :)